Skip to main content

Full text of "The travels of Peter Mundy in Europe and Asia, 1608-1667"

See other formats 


LIBRARY  OF 
WELLESLEY  COLLEGE 


PURCHASED  FROM 
LIBRARY  FUNDS 


WORKS    ISSUED    BY 


XLhc  IbaMuiPt  Society. 


THE    TRAVELS 

OF 

PETER   MUNDY, 

IN    EUROPE   AND   ASIA, 

1608 — 1667. 

Vol.  I. 
TRAVELS   IN   EUROPE,    1608— 1628. 


SECOND    SERIES. 
No.  XVII. 


Digitized  by  tine  Internet  Arciiive 

in  2010  witii  funding  from 

Boston  Library  Consortium  IVIember  Libraries 


Iittp://www.arcliive.org/details/travelsofpetermu01mund 


THE   TRAVELS 

OF 

PETER   MUNDY, 
IN    EUROPE  AND   ASIA, 

1608 — 1667. 


Vol.  I. 
TRAVELS    IN   EUROPE,    1608— 1628. 


EDITED    BY 


Lt.-Col.  sir  RICHARD  CARNAC  TEMPLE,  Bart.,  CLE., 

EDITOR  OF   'a  geographical  ACCOUNT  OF  COUNTRIES 
ROUND  THE  BAY   OF   BENGAL.' 


CAMBRIDGE: 

PRINTED   FOR   THE    HAKLUYT   SOCIETY. 

MCMVIL 


ur- 


PRINTED   BY   JOHN    CLAY,    M.A. 
AT   THE    UNIVERSITY    PRESS. 


•  Ms- 

24  O'U 


/ 


COUNCIL 

OF 

THE   HAKLUYT   SOCIETY. 


Sir  Clements  Markham,  K.C.B.,  F.R.S.,  President. 

The  Right  Hon.  The  Earl  of  Liverpool,   Vice-President. 

The  Right  Hon.  The  Lord  Amherst  of  Hackney,   Vice-President. 

The  Right  Hon.  The  Lord  Belhaven  and  Stenton. 

Thomas  B.  Bowring. 

Colonel  George  Earl  Church. 

Sir  William  Martin  Conway,  M.A.,  F.S.A. 

The  Rev.  Canon  John  Neale  Dalton,  C.M.G.,  C.V.O. 

George  William  Forrest,  CLE. 

William  Foster,  B.A. 

The  Right  Hon.   Sir  George  Taubman   Goldie,  K.C.M.G.,  D.C.L., 

LL.D.,  F.R.S.,  Pres.  R.G.S. 
Albert  Gray,  K.C. 
Edward  Heawood,  M.A. 
Colonel    Sir    Thomas    Hungerford    Holdich,   K.C.M.G.,   K.C.S.L, 

C.B.,  R.E. 
John  Scott  Keltie,  LL.D. 

Admiral  Sir  Albert  Hastings  Markham,  K.C.B. 
Admiral  of  the  Fleet  Sir  Frederick  William  Richards,  G.C.B. 
Admiral  of  the  Fleet  Sir  Edward  Hobart  Seymour,  G.C.B.,  O.M. 
Lieut. -Col.  Sir  Richard  Carnac  Temple,  Bart.,  CLE. 
Roland  Venables  Vernon,  B.A. 
Basil  Harrington  Soulsby,  B.A.,  F.S.A.,  Honorary  Secretary. 


CONTENTS. 


Preface 

Introduction  . 
Author's  Title 


Author's  Preface  . 
Author's  Contents 


PAGE 

ix 


Relation  1 13 — 40 

Mundy  goes  to  France,  13.  Early  voyages  in  Spain  and 
Portugal,  14.  Sails  to  Constantinople,  14.  His  voyage 
down  the  Mediterranean,  15 — -18.  His  description 
of  Scanderoon,  19.  Arrives  at  Constantinople,  21. 
"Computation"  of  miles  travelled,  24.  Author's  "Sup- 
plement," 24 — 40. 

Relation  II 41 — 136 

The  journey  from  Constantinople  to  Belgrade,  41 — 72. 
Description  of  Belgrade,  72—75.  Description  of  the 
Bulgarians,  76 — 78.  The  journey  from  Belgrade  to 
Sarajevo,  78 — 81.  The  journey  to  Spalato,  82 — 86. 
In  quarantine,  86 — 88.  The  voyage  to  Venice,  88 — 90. 
Description  of  Venice,  91 — 98.  The  journey  from 
Venice  to  Turin,  98 — 109.  Pindar's  reception  at 
Turin,  109 — 11 1.  The  journey  over  Mt.  Cenis  to 
Lyons,  iii — 119.  On  the  Loire,  to  Orleans,  120 — 122. 
The  journey  from  Orleans  to  Paris,  123 — 124.  Descrip- 
tion of  Paris,  124 — 130.  The  journey  from  Paris  to 
Calais,  130 — 133.  The  passage  to  Dover,  134.  The 
journey  to  Islington,  135 — 136.  "Computation"  of 
miles,  136. 

Relation  III 137 — 145 

Mundy  goes  to  Seville,  137.  Becomes  servant  to  Richard 
Wyche,  137.  Journeys  to  Spain,  138 — 142.  Visits 
St  Malo  and  Jersey,  143 — 144.  Enters  the  East  India 
Company's  Service,  144.    "Computation"  of  miles,  145. 


Vlll  CONTENTS 

PAGE 

Appendices 

A.  Extracts  from  Blount's  Voyage  into  the  Levant         .  146 

B.  Account  of  the  Wyche  Family 158 

C.  The  Roy  all  Merchant  and  Captain  Joshua  Downing.  166 

D.  The  Levant  Company  and  its  agents  at  Constantinople 

in  Mundy's  time  .         .         .         .         .         .         .171 

E.  Constantinople  in  the  seventeenth  century  (Extracts 

from    the    Writings    of    Grimston,    Gainsford,    and 

Sandys) 183 

F.  Extracts    from    Des    Hayes'    Voiage  de  Levant   and 

Bargave's    Voyages  and  Journeys      .         .         .         .199 

G.  Extracts  from  the  Note-Books  of  Richard  Symonds .  217 

Bibliography 236 

Index 245 

Errata .        .        .        .  285 

Illustrations 

Author's  Title-Page To  face  p.  i 

"Stakeing,  Gaunching  and  Drubbinge"     .         .            „  55 

"  Severall  Sorts  of  Swinginge "    .         .         .         .            „  58 

Maps 

Mundy's  Route  in  Turkey „  41 

Mundy's  Route  in  Italy „  88 

Mundy's  Route  in  France  .        .        .        .        .           „  113 


PREFACE. 


ETER  MUNDY  began  writing  an  account 
of  his  many  travels  in  Europe  and  Asia  as 
early  as  1620,  and  continued  his  narrative 
at  intervals  thereafter  up  to  1667,  compiling 
a  huge  MS.  volume  full  of  valuable  matter 
of  all  sorts,  and  of  exceptional  interest  to  students  of 
geography  and  history.  It  is  therefore  a  matter  of  con- 
siderable surprise  that  his  MS.  should  have  remained 
practically  buried  from  that  time  to  this.  It  was  known 
to  Tonkin,  the  early  i8th  century  Cornish  historian,  and 
to  Thomas  Fisher,  "Searcher  of  Records"  at  the  India 
Office  in  the  early  19th  century,  but  I  have  found  only 
three  references  to  it  in  works  written  during  the  last 
sixty-five  years.  In  J.  S.  Courtney's  Guide  to  Penzance, 
1845,  there  is  a  short  extract  from  the  first  Appendix  and 
a  brief  notice  of  the  work.  In  Boase  and  Courtney's 
Bibliotheca  Cornubiensis  (1874),  vol.  i.  p.  379,  there  is  a  para- 
graph on  Peter.  Mundy's  Travels,  and,  in  W.  P.  Courtney's 
article  on  Mundy  in  the  Diet,  of  Nat.  Biog.  (1894),  attention 
is  drawn  to  the  value  of  his  MS.,  which  is  commended 
to  the  notice  of  the   Hakluyt  Society. 

My  own  acquaintance  with  Peter  Mundy  and  his  work 
is,  however,  primarily  due  to  Mr  William  Foster  of  the 
India  Office,  who  inspected  the  MS.  at  the  Bodleian 
Library  some  five  years  ago,  and  furnished  me  with  an 
abstract  of  its  contents.      Its   scope    is  very  wide,  as    it 


X  PREFACE 

comprises  17th  century  accounts  of  practically  the  whole 
of  Continental  Europe,  parts  of  England  and  Wales, 
Western  India,  China  and  Japan,  besides  containing  his- 
torical notes  of  no  little  value.  It  covers  a  period  of  sixty 
years,  and  it  is  doubtful  if  any  other  contemporary  work 
of  equal  merit  exists.  The  value  of  such  a  MS.  to  the 
student  can  therefore  be  hardly  over-estimated,  especially 
as  a  careful  examination  has  shown  that  the  author  was 
an  educated  man,  who,  unlike  most  writers  of  his  day,  does 
not  indulge  in  "travellers'  tales,"  unless  he  qualifies  them 
by  the  saving  clause,  "  This  by  Relation." 

The  length  of  the  MS.  has  necessitated  its  division 
into  several  parts  for  the  purposes  of  this  Society  and, 
in  order  to  keep  the  early  European  travels  distinct  from 
the  Indian  voyages,  I  have  thought  it  best  to  confine  this 
volume  to  Mundy's  first  three  Relations  and  to  supplement 
his  information  as  far  as  possible  from  unpublished  or 
little-known  works  dealing  with  his  various  journeys. 
For  this  reason,  I  have  drawn  largely  on  the  MSS.  of 
Richard  Symonds  and  Robert  Bargrave  and  also  on  the 
almost  forgotten  books  of  Des  Hayes,  Gainsford,  Grim- 
ston,  etc.  The  bibliography  attached  to  this  volume  will 
show  the  extent  to  which  the  MSS.  of  the  period,  both 
at  the  British  Museum  and  Bodleian  Libraries,  have  been 
searched  to  find  contemporary  support  for  Mundy's 
statements. 

The  present  transcript  of  the  MS.  forming  the  text  of 
this  volume  has  been  made  from  the  only  complete  copy 
known  of  Mundy's  work,  Rawl.  MS.  A.  315,  in  the  Bodleian 
Library.  It  has  been  carefully  collated  with  Harl  MS.  2286 
in  the  British  Museum,  which  contains  a  duplicate  of  the 
early  travels  only.  The  method  of  transcribing  adopted 
is  the  same  as  that  employed  by  myself  in  the  case  of  the 
Bowrey  MS.  (Hakluyt  Soc.  Pub.  2nd  series,  vol.  12).  That 
is,  the  author's  spelling,  with  his  capitals,  is  strictly  adhered 


PREFACE  xi 

to,  but  contractions  have  been  written  out  in  full  and  the 
punctuation  has  been  altered  where  necessary  for  clear- 
ness. Marginal  notes,  when  repeated  in  the  text,  have 
been  omitted,  and  those  of  importance  have  been  re- 
produced as  footnotes.  Such  illustrations  as  appear  in  this 
part  are  exact  reproductions  of  Mundy's  own  drawings, 
and  on  the  three  maps  supplied  are  indicated  the  most 
important  of  his  early  European  journeys. 

As  other  volumes  are  to  follow,  the  introduction  to 
this  volume  contains  only  a  brief  summary  of  Mundy's 
career.  A  detailed  account  is,  however,  given  of  his 
actions  during  the  years  1608  — 1628,  the  period  covered 
by  his  iirst  three  Relations. 

I  have  had  many  helpers  in  the  task  of  preparing  this 
first  instalment  of  Mundy's  Travels  for  the  press.  To 
Mr  William  Foster  I  am  especially  indebted  both  for 
calling  my  attention  to  the  MS.  and  for  much  generous 
assistance  in  the  work  of  editing.  I  have,  besides,  re- 
ceived assistance  from  many  other  scholars.  In  most 
cases  my  acknowledgements  have  been  expressed  in  the 
notes  to  the  text,  but  I  beg  here  also  to  tender  my  hearty 
thanks  to  Professors  Blumhardt  and  Wilson,  to  Mr  Edwin 
Pears  of  Constantinople,  Mr  Donald  Ferguson,  Mr  W. 
Irvine,  Mr  W.  P.  Courtney,  Mr  F.  Cordeux-Rhys  and  to 
Dr  Rudolf  Sanzin  of  Vienna,  for  help  on  various  points. 

I  have  again  to  express  my  acknowledgements  to 
Miss  L.  M.  Anstey  who  has  been  continuously  at  work 
with  me  on  this  volume  for  the  last  two  years.  Without 
her  assistance  and  powers  of  accurate  research  it  is  no 
exaggeration  to  say  that  the  notes  would  have  lost  the 
greater  part  of  their  value.  I  also  wish  to  record  my 
appreciation  of  the  services  of  Miss  Alice  J.  Mayes, 
especially  in  connection  with  the  references  to  the  Levant 
Company, 

I   must  further  record   my  thanks  to  the  Cambridge 


Xll  PREFACE 

University    Press    and    Mr   John    Clay    for    excellence   of 
printing  and  saving  of  trouble  in  proof-correction. 

I  have  thought  it  best  to  attach  a  full  Bibliography 
and  Index  to  each  volume  as  it  is  produced,  in  view  of  the 
length  and  scope  of  the  whole  work  and  of  the  number  of 
years  which  must  elapse  before  the  final  volume  can  be 
issued. 

R.  C.  TEMPLE. 

The  Nash, 

Worcester. 

June^  1907. 


INTRODUCTION. 


HOUGH  Peter  Mundy  was  one  of  the  most 
remarkable  travellers  that  the  West  of 
England  has  ever  produced,  hardly  anything 
is  known  of  his  parentage  and  family.  The 
following  facts  are  all  that  we  can  learn 
from  his  own  writings.  He  was  born  at 
Penryn  in  Cornwall ;  his  grandfather  Peter  Mundy  was 
"  Chanoon  or  Chantor"  of  Glasney  College,  Cornwall,  about 
1530;  his  parents  resided  at  Penryn  until  about  1634;  his 
father  was,  in  his  youth,  apprenticed  at  Totnes ;  both 
his  father  and  his  uncle  were  engaged  in  the  "  pilchard 
business";  his  paternal  aunt  married  the  Rev.  John  Jack- 
son, rector  of  North  Petherwin,  Devonshire  ;  he  had  at 
least  one  brother  ;  and  he  himself  went  to  Rouen  with 
his  father  in  1608,  when  he  was  presumably  about  twelve 
years  old.  These  meagre  particulars  are  practically  all 
that  have  so  far  come  to  light  from  any  quarter,  though 
it  is  hoped  that,  before  the  issue  of  the  last  volume  of 
the  Travels,  additional  information  will  have  been  un- 
earthed. 

According  to  Tonkin,  the  Cornish  historian,  Peter 
Mundy  was  the  son  of  Richard  Mundy,  Senior,  Merchant, 
but  apart  from  Mundy's  own  references  to  his  "  father,"  no 
other  mention  has  been  found  of  him.  Richard  Mundy 
and  his  brother  were  both  alive  in  1621,  when  Peter 
travelled  to  Seville  with  pilchards  on  their  behalf.  His 
mother  was  alive  up  to  161 1,  after  which  date  he  makes 
no  mention  of  his  "  parents."  His  father  was  alive  in 
1635,  as  is  shown  by  reference  to  him  in  Mundy's  Preface, 
but  he  was  probably   dead   before  1645,  the  date  of  the 


xiv  INTRODUCTION 

commencement  of  the  St  Gluvias  burial  registers  at  Penryn, 
as  there  is  no  mention  of  him  there  up  to  1650,  when  my 
search  ceased.  A  Robert  Mundy  was  buried  at  Penryn  on 
the  1 6th  October,  1646,  and  was  apparently  the  "Robert 
Mundy  of  Penrin,  Merchant,"  on  the  marriage  of  whose 
daughter,  Joan,  with  George  Kest,  circ.  1625,  a  settlement 
was  drawn  up  between  the  fathers  of  the  bride  and  bride- 
groom^, but  there  is  no  clue  as  to  whether  he  was  the 
brother  or  son  of  Richard  Mundy.  Peter  Mundy's  parent- 
age must  thus  for  the  present  rest  on  conjecture. 

The  Penryn  Mundys  were  most  probably  connected 
with  the  Mundys  of  Rialton  Manor,  in  St  Columb  Minor, 
twelve  miles  north  of  Truro.  These  Mundys  were  the 
younger  branch  of  the  important  family  of  Mundy  of 
Marketon,  Derbyshire,  and  Osbaston  Hall,  Leicestershire^ 
The  founder  of  this  family,  John  Mundy,  flourished  in  the 
time  of  Edward  I.,  and  the  eighth  of  the  line  became 
Sir  John  Mundy  in  1495.  Sir  John's  son  and  namesake 
was  Lord  Mayor  of  London  in  1522-3  and  died  in  1538. 
He  was  the  father  of  a  numerous  family,  two  of  whom, 
Thomas  and  John,  his  fourth  and  fifth  sons,  made  their  way 
to  Cornwall  and  founded  the  Rialton  family.  Thomas  was 
Prior  of  Bodmin  in  the  reign  of  Henry  VHI.  and  died  in 
1554.  John  settled  at  Rialton  Manor,  a  former  appanage 
of  Bodmin  Priory.  Perhaps  the  Prior's  influence  procured 
the  appointment  of  "  Chantor  at  Glasney  College"  for 
Peter  Mundy,  the  traveller's  grandfather.  John  Mundy's 
third  son  was  Richard  and,  it  may  be,  the  father  of 
Richard  Mundy  of  Penryn,  but  there  is  no  real  proof 
of  this.  The  only  other  Richard  among  the  Mundys  of 
Rialton,  up  to  the  middle  of  the  17th  century,  was  Richard, 
tenth  child  of  John  Mundy  and  great-grandson  of  the  first 
owner  of  Rialton.  This  Richard  appears  by  his  will  to 
have   died   unmarried   in    1647   and   to   have   had    no   im- 

1  Harl.  MS.  6243. 

2  See  Nichols,  History  and  Afitiquities  of  the  Coimty  of  Leicester, 
vol.  iv.  p.  525. 


INTRODUCTION  XV 

mediate  connection  with  our  author.  Richard's  sister, 
however,  married  Hannibal  Vivian,  whose  brothers  were 
Peter  Mundy's  travelling  companions  on  his  voyage  to 
Constantinople,  as  will  be  told  later  on. 

Of  Mundys  of  Penryn,  besides  Robert,  mentioned 
above,  the  only  two  that  have  come  to  light  are  Anthony 
Mundy,  living  in  1599,  and  another  Anthony  Mundy  who 
was  buried  in  1677.  They  were  presumably  father  and 
son  and  are  both  described  as  "  of  Penrin,"  the  elder 
being  a  "merchant"  and  Member  of  Parliament  for  the 
borough.  Unfortunately,  the  facts  connected  with  these 
individuals  throw  no  light  on  their  parentage,  nor  on  Peter 
Mundy  and  his  family.  A  search  among  the  Mundy  willsy 
proved  in  the  P.  C.  C,  has  been  equally  fruitless.  Still,  by 
prosecuting  enquiries  in  every  likely  direction,  I  trust  that, 
with  the  issue  of  vol.  ii.  I  shall  be  able  to  furnish  some 
accurate  information  as  to  the  origin  of  so  unique  a 
character  as  Peter  Mundy. 

As  the  scope  of  Mundy's  work  and  the  amount  of 
matter  that  yet  remains  to  be  published  are  so  large,  I  pro- 
pose to  give  here  but  a  brief  chronological  table  of  his 
whole  career  as  gathered  from  his  MS.,  and  to  follow  him 
in  detail  only  during  the  years  1608 — 1628,  with  the  story 
of  which  this  volume  is  concerned. 

Brief  chronological  account  of  Peter  Mundy  s 
career. 

1596  {circ.)     Born  at  Penryn. 
1608     Goes  to  Rouen  with  his  father. 
1610     At  Bayonne  learning  French. 
161 3     At  San  Lucar  with  Mr  Parker. 
161 5     At  Seville  with  Mr  Weaver. 

1617     Goes  to  Constantinople  with  James  Wyche  in  the 
Royall  Merchant. 

1620  Journeys  to  England  overland  from  Constantinople. 

1 62 1  Goes  to  Penryn. 

1 62 1     Goes  to  Seville  on  the  "pilchard  business," 


xvi  INTRODUCTION 

1622  Returns  to  England. 

1625  Goes  to  Valladolid  about  the  "Copper  Contract." 

1626  Goes  to  St  Malo  and  Jersey. 

1627  Returns  to  Penryn. 

1628  Goes  to  Surat  in  the  Expedition  in  the  East  India 

Company's  service. 
1634     Returns  from  India  in  the  Royall  Mary.     Goes  to 
Penryn,  and  is  "  welcomed  home"  by  his  friends. 

1634  Makes  a  trading  voyage  to  London  in  a  "Lobster 

boate,"  and  returns  to  Penryn  via  Basing  House 
and  Winchester. 

1635  Goes  with  Sir  William  Courten's  fleet  to  India  and 

Japan. 

1638  Returns   to    England.      Arrives    in    London,    15th 

December. 

1639  Makes  a  "Petty  Progresse"  in  England  and  Wales. 

1640  Goes  to   Holland,  Russia,  Prussia  and   Poland  on 

a  trading  voyage  on  his  own  account. 
1647     Returns  to  Falmouth. 
1650     At  Penryn.     Writes  his  first  Appendix  to  his  MS. 

1654  In  London.     Writes  notes  on  his  early  voyages. 

1655  Makes    his   third   voyage    to    India   in   the  Alleppo 

Merchant. 

1656  Returns    to    England.      Arrives    in    London,    3rd 

September. 

1658  In  London.  Writes  an  Appendix  of  contemporary 
events. 

1663     Returns  to  Penryn. 

1663 — 1667  At  Penryn.  Continues  the  chronicle  of  con- 
temporary events,  including  news  from  India, 
the  appearance  of  comets,  etc.  Concludes  with 
a  copy  of  the  Proclamation  after  the  Treaty  of 
Breda,  read  in  Penryn  the  nth  September,  1667. 

Peter  Mundy  passed  his  childhood  in  his  native  town 
of  Penryn  in  the  south  of  Cornwall,  a  fitting  nursery  for 
a  lad  whose  natural  bent  was  travel  and  adventure,  for  it 
lies   at   the  head   of  a   creek,  only  two    miles   north-west 


INTRODUCTION  xvii 

of  the  then  important  seaport  of  Falmouth,  which  took 
a  prominent  part  in  the  EngHsh  achievements  against  the 
Spaniards  in  1588.  If,  as  is  probable,  he  was  born  in  or 
about  the  year  1596,  it  is  possible  that  Peter  Mundy's 
youthful  mind  was  filled  with  stories  of  the  doings  of  the 
Cornish  folk  in  those  days.  No  doubt,  also,  he  was  well 
acquainted  with  the  circumstances  attending  the  catch 
of  pilchards,  "  our  Countrey  Comoditie^"  and  had  perhaps, 
from  this  source,  acquired  a  knowledge  of  the  sea  and 
sailors. 

His  early  instruction  was  most  likely  received  at  the 
"free  Schoole"  at  Penryn,  one  of  the  three  then  existing 
in  Cornwall,  and  also  at  North  Petherwin,  where  he  "  liv'd 
awhile"with  his  uncle,  the  Reverend  John  Jackson,  "Preacher 
and  Pastor  of  that  Parish^"  In  1608,  his  father,  Richard 
Mundy,  took  him,  while  still  a  lad,  to  Rouen,  the  capital 
of  Normandy,  on  account  of  his  education  and  perhaps 
in  connection  with  the  pilchard  business®.  At  Rouen, 
Peter  Mundy  remained  one  month  and  was  then  sent  to 
Bayonne  to  "  learne  the  French  Tongue*."  There  he 
stayed  two  years,  returning  to  Falmouth  in    1610. 

In  May,  1611,  he  commenced  the  work  of  a  life  that 
proved  to  be  an  exceptionally  busy  one,  and  left  his  home 
to  serve  with  Captain  John  Davis  as  a  "  cabin-boy^," 
a  position  which  was  then  apparently  quite  different  from 
that  occupied  by  the  cabin-boys  of  to-day.  The  term 
seems  to  have  signified  a  trade-apprentice  rather  than 
a  menial  servant.  By  the  beginning  of  161 3,  he  is  found 
to  be  in  the  care  of  Mr  George  Weaver,  who  lived  with 
a  Spaniard  at  Sanlucar  de  Barrameda  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Guadalquivir,  and  who  may  have  been  engaged  in  the 
flourishing  pilchard"  and  tin  trade  of  Cornwall  with  Spain. 

1  See  p.  137.  ^  Mundy's  first  Appendix. 

^  "  In  France  they  utter  their  pickled  Pilchardes."  Norden,  A 
Topographical  Description  of  Cornwall.,  p.  23. 

*  See  p.  13.  ^  See  p.  13  f. 

^  "The  dryed  ware  (Pilchardes)  theycarrye  into  Spayne."  Norden, 
A  Topographical  Description  of  Cornwall,  p.  23. 

M.  b 


xviii  INTRODUCTION 

Peter  Mundy  stayed  with  him  about  two  years,  until  he 
went,  at  the  end  of  1614,  to  Seville  under  the  orders  of 
Mr  Charles  Parker.  In  this  service  he  visited,  for  the 
purposes  of  trade,  the  ports  at  the  mouth  of  the  Guadiana. 
He  had  probably  picked  up  some  knowledge  of  Spanish 
from  Senor  Patinno  at  Sanlucar,  and  in  the  two  years  he 
spent  at  Seville  he  "  attained  1"  that  language.  After  an 
absence  of  five  years  and  seven  months,  he  returned  to 
London  with  Captain  Davis.  He  was  now  a  young  man 
of  about  twenty,  well-equipped  for  that  life  of  incessant 
travel  which  he  subsequently  led.  A  full  record  of  his 
proceedings  at  this  period  does  not  appear  to  have  come 
down  to  us,  as  he  says  that  Relation  I.  refers  only  to 
"  some  Voyages  etts.  recalled  to  memory  since  my  first 
settinge  forth-." 

On  the  1 6th  December,  1654,  thirty  years  after  he 
wrote  Relation  I.,  Mundy  added  to  his  earlier  Remarks 
on  France  and  Spain  as  follows^: — ''London^  the  i6th 
December,  Anno  1654.  My  intention  is,  if  God  spare  mee 
life  and  leisure,  to  Copy  outt  this  booke  over  againe,  as 
well  to  rectifie  whatt  is  amisse  according  to  my  abilitie, 
as  allsoe  to  insert  many  things  omitted  by  mee,  amongst 
the  rest  some  thatt  follow,  Vizt. 

Roan,  1608.  My  first  voiage  was  over  to  Roane  in 
Normandy  with  my  Father.  The  Citty  lieth  on  the 
bancks  of  Seine,  a  River  thatt  runneth  through  the  Citty 
of  Paris,  passeth  by  this,  and  att  Newhaven^  runneth  into 


^  See  p.  14.  ^  See  p.  24. 

3  The  extracts  quoted  are  taken  from  fol.  220  of  Mundy's  MS.  and 
are  entitled  "The  Appendix  Somwhat  concerning  severall  Citties, 
Places,  etts."  The  length  of  the  MS.  is  so  great  that  these  remarks 
were  overlooked  until  it  was  ransacked  for  evidences  of  Mundy's  life. 
Since  they  were  discovered  too  late  to  print  as  the  Author's  Appendix 
to  Relation  I.,  I  have  thought  it  best  to  reproduce  them  here. 

*  I  can  find  no  record  at  this  period  of  any  other  name  but  Havre 
de  Grace  for  the  port  at  the  mouth  of  the  Seine.  Still,  as  the  town 
was  not  a  century  old  when  Mundy  visited  it,  having  been  founded  by 
Francis  I.  in  15 16,  it  is  just  possible  that,  in  his  day,  it  was  known  to 
Englishmen  as  the  New  Haven.  The  Sussex  port,  now  called  New- 
haven,  was  then  the  village  of  Meeching,  and  possessed  no  harbour. 


INTRODUCTION  xix 

the  narrow  Seas,  the  Contention  betweene  which  and  the 
River  produceth  a  strange  effect,  called  by  us  the  Bore, 
especially  att  Spring  tide,  for  the  River  keeping  his  course 
against  the  tide  of  floud,  which  rising  att  length  over- 
maistreth  the  River,  in  such  manner  that  the  streame 
which  ran  Downeward  is  in  an  instanc  forced  backe 
againe  with  exceeding  swiftnesse  and  fearful  1  Noise  heard 
A  greatt  way  off^  This  bore  or  tide  head  comes  sodainely 
many  foote  high  like  great  rouling  feathering  Waves,  over- 
turning smalle  vessells,  boates,  etts.  what  it  meetes  in  its 
way,  making  others  fleete  thatt  are  aground,  and  all  this 
as  I  said  on  a  sodaine  appearing  for  a  while  like  a  tem- 
pestuous Sea  thus  only  as  it  passeth  by,  and  soe  runneth 

farre  up  in  to  the  Country^ 

There  is  att  Roan  a  greatt  bell  (which  I  allso  saw  not) 
through  forgetfulnesse,  butt  heard  much  therof  by  others. 
There  is  written  about  it  this  verse : — 

JE    SUIS    GEORGE    DE    GRANBOIS^   DE    CINQUANTE    MILLE 

POIZ, 
MAIS   QUI    ME    PESERA,   SOIXANTE   MILL   ME   TROUVERA. 

I  heard  a  Dutch  Captaine  say  that  hee  measured  the 
Circumference,  and  that  it  was  nine  fathom  and  one  span 
of  his  about  the  brymme ;  hee  beeing  a  tall  Man,  it  could 
not  bee  lesse  then  fifty-five  foote  in  circumference,  which 
is  aboutt  eighteen  foote  Diameter,  and,  as  aforesaid,  60000 
waightt*  600  quintalles-'  or  30  tonne. 

There   are  allsoe   many   poore   people,  both   men   and 


1  The  bore  on  the  Seine  extends  as  high  as  Caudebec,  rises  from 
one  to  three  feet,  and  is  similar  to  the  bore  at  the  mouth  of  the  Severn 
to  v/hich  Mundy  compares  it. 

2  Here  Mundy  adds  a  short  paragraph  about  "  The  Tide  head  in 
Severne." 

3  A  mistake.  This  famous  bell  was  called  George  d^Amboise.  It 
was  cast  by  order  of  George,  Cardinal  d'Amboise,  the  favourite 
minister  of  Louis  XII.,  and  was  hung  in  the  Tour  de  Beurre,  the 
loftier  of  the  two  towers  of  Notre-Dame  at  Rouen.  The  bell  was 
melted  down  at  the  Revolution. 

*  i.e.^  pounds.  ^  A  quintal  of  100  lbs. 


XX  INTRODUCTION 

weomen  ;  sometimes  a  man  and  his  wife  in  stead  of  horses 
Drawing  small  Carrs,  transporting  of  goods  from  place  to 
place  in  thatt  Citty. 

Bayofi,  1610.  Bayon  in  Gascony  lieth  on  the  borders 
of  France,  betweene  it  and  Spaine.  There  the  Artisans 
wives  wear  an  attire  on  their  heads  like  unto  Morions  or 
head  peeces,  made  of  lynnen,  stuft  with  Cotton,  coullored 
with  saffron,  stucke  with  pinns\  I  was  told  they  wear  it 
for  a  remembrance  of  their  courage  and  resolution  in 
assisting  to  expell  the  English  from  thence  aboutt  Anno 
1453,  wee  holding  thatt  place  and  all  Gascony  besides 
many  years-.  (Search  the  Chronicles^'.)  Servant  Maides 
goe  in  their  haire,  which  hangueth  displayed  and  Dispersed 
over  their  backes  and  Shoulders,  having  the  Crowne  of 
their  heads  shaven  Just  as  friers. 

San  Lucar,  161 3.  Att  this  place  an  Englishman 
married  a  Spanish  woman  (who  Dwelled  next  Dore  to 
us)'*  Killed  his  wife  and  one  of  the  Kings  Commissaries 
finding  them  together,  who^  after  some  trouble,  was 
freed  according  to  the  lawes  of  the  Country.  Here  lived 
then  Don  Alonso  PERES  DE  GAZMAN  DUQUE 
DE  MEDINA  SIDONIA,  who  was  generall  in  88«, 
and  Died  before  my  comming  from  Spaine,  aboutt  Anno 

1615^ 

Sevill,  161 5.  Of  this  Citty  much  might  bee  said,  it 
beeing  large,  populous,  Ritche,  and  a  place  of  greatt 
trafificke.  I  will  only  relate  a  word  or  two  of  some  par- 
ticularities therin.     The  Bridge  over  which  they  passe  to 

^  In  the  MS.  there  are  two  small  drawings  of  male  and  female 
heads  with  the  "  attire  "  described. 

^  Here  the  author  has  a  marginal  note,  "31th  year  Henry  6 
[z>.  1453]  ;  wee  held  it  300  years."    The  dates  are  correct. 

2  This  is  probably  a  memorandum  intended  by  Mundy  for  himself. 

*  i.e.,  Mundy  and  Mr  George  Weaver.     See  ante,  p.  xvii. 

^  i.e.,  the  Englishman. 

**  Alonso  Perez  de  Guzman,  Due  de  Medina  Sidonia,  who  com- 
manded the  Spanish  Armada  in  1588,  retired  to  San  Lucar  circ.  1595 
and  died  there  in  161 5. 

'■  Mundy  left  Spain  and  returned  to  England  at  the  end  of  1616. 


INTRODUCTION  xxi 

TRIANA  is  built  on  greatt  Lighters  and  mored  att  both 
ends,  rising  and  FaUing  with  the  tide^ 

La  GIRALDA  DE  SEVILLA  or  tower  of  Sevill. 
LA  IGLESIA  MAYOR  or  greatt  Churche.  The  Steeple 
or  tower  of  the  greatt  Church  is  exceeding  high,  very 
artificially  built,  soe  thatt  all  the  bells  may  bee  seene 
from  withoutt  side,  in  number  aboutt  twenty-six.  The 
great  bell  the  best  thatt  ever  I  heard  I  It  may  bee 
ascended  on  horsebacke  untill  you  come  to  the  said  belles. 
On  the  top  of  all  is  the  Image  of  a  Woman  standing  on 
a  globe,  holding  a  banner  in  her  hand,  which  serves  as 
a  fane  to  shew  the  winde.  The  said  Image  is  called 
LA  GIRALDA,  from  which  the  whole  tower  takes  its 
namel  From  the  said  tower  I  saw  the  high  hills  of 
GRANADA,  accompted  40  leagues  off;  they  are  allwaies 
covered  with  snow.  The  Churche  beelonging  to  the  said 
tower  is  very  large,  faire  and  ritche,  it  having  500,000 
Ducattes  of  yearly  rent,  admirably  graced  with  rare  and 
costly  Images,  pictures,  etts.  ornamentes  within.  And  I 
conceave  with  the  best  musicke  both  for  Instrumentts 
and  voices  thatt  is  in  all  Spaine. 

EL  ALCAC^AR,  or  King's  house,  att  Sevilla.  The 
Alcacar  (or  as  wee  pronounce  it  Alcasar)  or  Kings  house 
is  allsoe  an  Elaborate  Structure*. 

LA  VEGA  DE  SEVILLA^  or  vally  of  Sevill,  for 
proffitt  and  Delight  nott  to  bee  parallelled  in  the  whole 
world  for  plentie,  variety  and  excellency  of  Productions, 
take   one   with   another.       It   lyeth    in    the   best   part   of 

^  The  Moorish  bridge  of  boats  over  the  Guadalquivir,  connecting- 
Seville  with  the  suburb  of  Triana,  existed  until  the  middle  of  the  19th 
century.  In  1845-52  an  iron  bridge  was  erected  a  little  below  the  site 
of  the  ancient  bridge. 

^  The  Santa  Maria,  set  up  in  1588. 

^  The  Giraldillo,  or  vane,  is  a  bronze  female  figure,  representing 
Faith,  cast  by  Bartolome  Morel,  in  1568.  It  stands  on  a  small  dome 
and  holds  the  banner  of  Constantine. 

*  The  palace  of  the  Moorish  Kings  and  a  Spanish  royal  residence 
after  the  capture  of  Seville  by  the  Christians  in  1248. 

^  Ve^a,  an  open  plain,  a  tract  of  level  and  fruitful  ground.  The 
district  south-east  of  Seville  is  extremely  fertile. 


xxii  INTRODUCTION 

ANDALUZIA,  which  province  is  accounted  the  most 
fertill  in  all  Spaine. 

I  had  forgotten  LA  XARALL^  DE  SEVILLA,  which 
is  a  large  forrest  of  Olive  trees  round  about  the  cittie, 
1 8  leagues  in  compasse,  somwhatt  Distant  from  it,  having 
many  townes,  villages,  pasture,  tillage,  gardeins,  etts.  in 
and  outt  among  itt.  I  was  att  Las  dos  HERMAN  AS 
(the  two  sisters),  a  towne  soe  called^,  filling  oile  in  pipes 
at  the  oile  Mills,  lying  aboutt  two  leagues  off. 

A  Strange  Ceremony.  I  was  told  thatt  when  the  King 
of  Spaine  cometh  thatt  way  and  is  to  enter  the  Citty,  they 
make  a  bridge  for  him  thatt  hee  may  com  over  the  walls 
and  not  through  any  of  the  gates ;  for,  through  which 
gate  so  ever  the  King  enters,  all  goods,  Merchandize,  etts., 
which  shall  either  bee  imported  or  exported  through  the 
same,  shall  bee  Custom  free,  which  would  bee  a  greatt 
losse  and  hinderance  to  the  Citty :  soe  the  King  is  pleased 
to  com  over  the  walls  as  aforementioned. 

AYAMONTE.  I  can  say  butt  little  of  this  place,  only 
the  Harbour  or  inlett  Devideth  Spaine  from  Portugall,  on 
the  Spanish  side  Ayamonte,  on  the  other  Castromarin. 
Into  this  Inlett  or  Creeke  runneth  the  river  GUADIANA, 
which,  aboutt  40  leagues  up  in  the  country  runneth  into 
the  ground,  and  aboutt  20  miles  from  thence,  riseth  outt 
of  the  earth  againe^  This  by  relation  and  Description 
in  mapps.  I  saw  it  not.  I  came  from  Sevill  to  this 
place*,  where  I  remained  butt  a  little  while.  From  hence 
I  went  over  to  Castro  Marin  Speto  T A VI LA  in  the 
Algarves^   aperteyning   to    the   Kingdome   of    Portugall. 

^  Xaral  or  Jardl,  a  place  planted  with  the  cistus  or  labdanum 
shrub  (see  Stevens'  and  Neuman  and  ]3aretti's  Spanish  dicfwnaries). 
Hence,  probably,  any  plantation. 

-  Dos  Hermanas  is  g  miles  from  Seville. 

^  The  Guadiana  disappears  12  miles  from  its  source  (at  Lugar- 
Nuevo)  and  for  15  miles  is  lost  in  a  bed  of  reeds  and  rushes. 

*  i.e.,  Ayamonte. 

^  Tavila  or  Tavira,  in  Algarve.  Mr  Donald  Ferguson  suggests  that 
'  Speto'  may  be  Mundy's  mistake  for  perto,  near.  As  it  stands,  the 
passage  is  unintelligible. 


INTRODUCTION  xxiii 

From  these  places  are  transported  great  store  of  figs, 
oile,  etts." 

Whether  Mundy  went  to  his  home  in  Cornwall  on  his 
return  to  England  after  his  absence  in  Spain  is  doubtful, 
as,  within  a  fortnight,  he  was  off  again  on  his  travels. 
This  time  to  Constantinople,  whence  we  know  that  he 
returned  to  Cornwall  in  162 1.  His  new  master  was  Mr 
James  Wyche,  one  of  the  numerous  sons  of  Richard 
Wyche,  a  London  merchants  James  Wyche  went  to 
Constantinople  in  the  interests  of  his  father,  a  member 
of  the  Levant  Company,  and  Mundy  seems  to  have  been 
engaged  as  a  mercantile  clerk,  an  office  for  which  his  pre- 
vious experience  would  render  him  well  fitted.  He  sailed, 
in  1617,  on  the  Royall  Alerchant,  under  the  command  of 
Captain  Joshua  Downingl 

The  Royall  Merchant  carried  several  passengers,  all 
interested  in  the  Levant  trade.  Mr  James  Garraway  (or 
Garway),  whose  kinsman  Thomas  founded  the  famous 
coffee-house,  and  Mr  Bartholomew  Abbot,  whose  relative 
Sir  Morris  Abbot  owned  the  ship,  were  on  board.  There 
were  besides,  two  Cornishmen,  Roger  and  Charles  Vivian, 
sons  of  Hannibal  Vivian  "  of  Trelewarrein."  The  Vivians 
were  connected  by  marriage  with  the  Mundys  of  St  Colomb 
Minor*  and  were  probably  no  strangers  to  Peter  Mundy*. 

To  a  man  of  Mundy's  power  of  observation,  the 
voyage  through  the  Mediterranean  was  "  full  of  various 
Novelties  and  delights',"  and  he  tells  us  of  several  matters 
characteristic  of  sea  travel  in  his  day,  including  a  story 
of  a  "  terrible  broyle^"  off  Cape  St  Vincent,  which  nearly 
occurred  from  mistaking  a  friendly  fleet  for  pirates  in  the 


1  See  Appendix  B.  ^  gee  Appendix  C.  ^  See  cmte^  p.  xv. 

*  Charles  Vivian,  at  the  time  of  his  voyage  to  Constantinople,  was 
apprenticed  to  Sir  Morris  Abbot,  "  Cittizen  and  Draper  of  London." 
He  obtained  ''his  freedome"  in  July,  1622,  and  was  admitted  a 
member  of  the  Levant  Company,  instate  Papers,  Foreign  Archives, 
vol.  148,  p.  74  b.)  Roger  Vivian  was  Sir  Thomas  Abdy's  companion 
in  his  travels  in  France  in  1633.     He  died  in  1653. 

'"  See  p.  16. 


xxiv  INTRODUCTION 

darkness.  He  also  remarks  on  the  hospitality  that  English 
merchants  settled  abroad  always  extended  to  their  fellow- 
countrymen  at  that  time. 

Of  the  various  observations  he  records  may  be  noted 
those  on  the  cleanliness  and  decorative  beauty  of  Leghorn, 
where  he  gained  his  first  experience  of  quarantine.  Off 
Stromboli  he  saw  a  volcano  in  active  eruption — also  a  first 
experience.  At  Zante  he  noticed  the  cultivation  of  "  cur- 
rence"  to  the  exclusion  of  corn.  He  gives  an  unpleasing 
description  of  Scanderoon  (Iskanderun  or  Alexandretta), 
with  its  "  boggs,  foggs  and  froggs^"  It  was  then  the  port 
of  Aleppo,  and  there  he  tasted  roast  porcupine  and  wild 
boar  and  found  them  "  Savourie  meate^"  He  made  the 
usual  guess  of  his  day  at  the  site  of  Troy  on  passing  that 
neighbourhood,  and  finally  he  reached  "  the  famous  Port 
and  Imperiall  Cittie  of  Constantinople^"  where  he  at  once 
became  engrossed  in  business. 

During  the  time  that  he  spent  in  the  Turkish  capital 
he  must  have  heard  and  seen  much  of  interest.  Un- 
fortunately he  kept  no  record  of  this  period  of  his  life, 
and  his  account,  which  was  written  circ.  1634,  and  revised 
in  1650  and  1654,  consists  only  of  "passages  recollected 
by  Memory"*."  Among  these  "  passages"  are  the  revolutions 
that  occurred  during  his  stay  and  the  turmoil  occasioned 
by  them.  He  arrived  a  short  time  before  the  death  of 
Ahmad  I.  and  witnessed  the  accession  of  the  hapless 
Mustafa,  who  was  taken  from  a  prison  to  a  throne.  Three 
months  later,  in  February,  16 18,  he  heard  of  the  revolt 
in  favour  of  Osman  and  of  the  imprisonment  of  Mustafa 
for  the  second  time.  His  summary  of  these  events,  "  Three 
grand  Signiors  in  three  monethes',"  is  brief  and  to  the 
point.  Mundy  also  remarks  on  three  events  which  occurred 
during  his  sojourn  in  Constantinople  and  terrified  him, 
namely,  a  slight  earthquake,  an  extensive  fire  causing 
heavy  loss  of  life,  and  a  visitation  of  the  plague  when  the 

^  See  p.  19.  ^  See  p.  20.  ^  See  p.  21. 

*  See  p.  3.  ^  See  p.  21,  ;/.  5. 


INTRODUCTION  XXV 

mortality  was  said  to  have  risen  to  a  thousand  a  day. 
The  contemplation  of  these  horrors  causes  him  to  close 
Relation  I.  with  the  ejaculation,  "  From  which  evills  and 
all  others,  good  Lord  deliver  us,  Amen\" 

Mundy  gives  practically  no  description  of  the  life  of 
his  day  in  Constantinople,  but  it  does  not  seem  to  have 
pressed  heavily  on  the  Europeans,  for  he  tells  us  that 
"  the  English  Merchants  pass  very  Commodiouseley  with 
pleasure,  love  and  Amitye  among  themselves^."  This  last 
remark  seems  to  show  that  James  Wyche  and  his  im- 
mediate friends  did  not  personally  suffer  from  the  many 
obstacles  to  English  trade,  of  which  the  ambassador,  after- 
wards the  well-known  Sir  Paul  Pindar,  was  sending  home 
so  many  and  bitter  complaints  while  Mundy  was  living 
in  Constantinople. 

Among  recreations,  Mundy  mentions  that  he  joined 
a  party  of  his  countrymen  in  an  excursion  to  Pompey's 
Pillar,  on  the  eastern  shore  of  the  Black  Sea. 

Mundy  is  curiously  careful  to  give,  at  the  end  of  each 
Relation,  "  computations  "  of  the  miles  he  travelled  during 
his  journeys,  and  he  reckons  the  total  distance  traversed 
from  the  time  he  set  out  for  Rouen  till  his  arrival  at 
Constantinople,  including  his  visit  to  Pompey's  Pillar,  as 
175394-  He  was  obviously  proud  of  these  tables  of  dis- 
tances and  with  reason,  considering  that  his  only  means 
of  transit  were  sailing  vessels,  horses  or  wheeled  vehicles 
drawn  by  animals. 

In  i6i8,  James  Wyche  succumbed  to  small-pox,  which 
was  epidemic  in  that  year  at  Constantinople.  After  his 
master's  death,  Mundy  "  remained  with  Mr.  Lawrence 
Greene,"  Junior,  a  merchant,  who,  we  may  reasonably  infer 
from  this  fact,  had  been  in  some  way  connected  with  James 
Wyche.  This  Lawrence  Greene  subsequently  became  the 
Levant  Company's  Consul  at  Smyrna,  and  was  one  of  the 
many  merchants  then  residing  at  Pera,  a  suburb  of  Con- 
stantinople.    From  this  new  association,  Mundy  doubtless 

^  See  p.  39  f.  ^  See  p.  22. 


XXVI  INTRODUCTION 

gained  further  insight  into  mercantile  affairs.  He  "re- 
mained" with  Lawrence  Greene  for  nearly  two  years,  but 
whether  he  was  acting  in  the  interests  of  the  Wyche 
family  or  as  clerk  to  Greene,  or  in  both  capacities,  it  is 
difficult  to  determine. 

Mundy's  account  of  Constantinople  is  very  meagre. 
With  his  usual  strict  adherence  to  truth,  he  owns  that 
the  memory  of  his  early  years  is  somewhat  indistinct,  and 
he  therefore  contents  himself  with  referring  his  readers 
to  "the  relation  of  others^"  and  only  comments  on  those 
things  of  which  he  took  "  particuler  notice."  Between 
i6io  and  the  time  when  Mundy  revised  his  MS.  in  1650, 
many  travellers  had  visited  Constantinople  and  had  re- 
corded their  impressions  in  print.  With  some  of  these 
works  Mundy  had  made  himself  familiar,  and  they  prob- 
ably served  to  refresh  his  memory  as  to  the  scenes  in  which 
he  had  passed  his  early  manhood. 

Of  the  objects  which  had  remained  imprinted  on  his 
memory,  the  "haven^"  at  Constantinople  holds  the  chief 
place.  As  is  natural  in  one  bred  up  in  sight  of  Falmouth 
Harbour,  it  draws  forth  more  commendation  than  do  all 
the  great  buildings  of  Constantinople.  The  saving  of 
labour  in  the  lading  and  unlading  of  vessels  and  the 
extent  and  safety  of  the  sheltered  basin  also  appealed 
to  one  trained  from  boyhood  to  estimate  the  possibilities 
of  trade  in  English  commodities  with  European  ports. 
Mundy's  other  remarks  on  the  chief  points  of  interest 
in  the  city  where  he  spent  nearly  four  years  are,  as  he 
says  himself,  but  "  course  and  Coursary^." 

On  the  arrival  of  Sir  John  Eyre  to  succeed  Paul 
Pindar  as  the  Levant  Company's  representative  at  Con- 
stantinople, Mundy  obtained  permission  to  return  to 
England  in  the  train  of  the  retiring  ambassador.  He  was 
present  at  the  ceremonial  reception  of  Sir  John  Eyre  by 
the  Grand  Signior,  at  which  time  Pindar  bade  his  official 
farewell  to  the  Turkish  monarch. 

1  See  p.  30.  ^  See  p.  37  f.  ^  See  p.  25. 


INTRODUCTION  XXVll 

In  his  Relation  II.  Mundy  gives  an  account  of  his 
journey  overland  from  Constantinople  to  London.  In  this 
story,  he  chronicles,  in  the  form  of  a  diary,  the  events  of 
each  day  and  the  various  stages  of  the  route  from  the  6th 
May  until  the  i8th  September,  i620\ 

Pindar's  reason  for  travelling  across  Europe  instead  of 
returning  to  England  by  sea  is  not  known.  It  is  possible 
that  he  had  instructions  from  the  Levant  Company  to 
enquire  into  the  state  of  their  trade  in  the  inland  cities 
with  a  view  to  creating  additional  mercantile  centres,  as 
he  visited  all  the  important  places  with  which  the  Company 
had  established  relations. 

The  ex-ambassador's  cavalcade  was  such  as  befitted 
his  position.  He  left  his  house  at  Pera,  accompanied  by 
his  nephew,  several  members  of  the  Levant  Company,  an 
interpreter  and  seventeen  servants  of  various  nationalities. 
The  ambassador  and  the  merchants  rode,  and  twelve 
waggons  carried  the  baggage  and  the  servants.  A  guard 
of  twenty-one  Janissaries  was  told  off  by  the  Grand 
Signior  as  a  protection  during  the  first  stages  of  the 
journey.  Six  Frenchmen,  who  had  accompanied  Monsieur 
de  Cesy,  Louis  XIII.'s  ambassador,  to  Constantinople, 
joined  Pindar's  party  with  thirty-one  carts  for  "  themselves 
and  their  Lumbermentl"  The  cavalcade  thus  consisted  of 
fifty-six  persons,  and  it  was  further  augmented  at  the 
outset  by  the  resident  merchants  of  Galata,  twelve  in 
number^  who  escorted  Pindar  from  his  house  at  Pera  to 


1  He  probably  kept  a  rough  record  of  events  and  put  it  into  shape 
on  the  return  voyage  from  India  in  1634,  when  he  wrote  the  account 
of  his  early  travels  comprised  in  Relation  I. 

2  See  p.  44. 

3  Since  the  text  of  Relation  II.  was  printed,  information  has  come 
to  hght  regarding  Messrs  Hunt,  Guilliams  and  Lowe.  (See  note  2  on 
p.  44,  and  notes  2  and  3  on  p.  45.)  In  1623,  Henry  Hunt,  "late 
apprentice  of  Mr  Roger  Harvey,  having  been  employed  in  the  Com- 
pany's privileges  for  three  years  beyond  the  seas  and  upwards,"  was 
admitted  to  the  freedom  of  the  Levant  Company.  In  February,  1624, 
Abell  Guilliams,  "  Apprentice  to  John  Williams  haveing  served  three 
yeares  and  upwards  in  the  priveledges  and  payed  the  usual  fyne  of  xxj." 
was  admitted  to  the  freedom  of  the  Company.     On  the  6th  July,  1626, 


XXVlll 


INTRODUCTION 


the  "  Fresh  Waters,"  two  miles  distant.  Here,  five  of  the 
merchants  took  their  leave,  the  other  seven  remaining  two 
days  with  the  party  and  turning  back  to  Pera  on  the 
morning  of  the  8th  May. 

The  first  halt  was  on  the  6th  May,  1620,  at  Kuchuk 
Chekmeje,  the  Little  Bridge,  seven  miles  from  the  walls 
of  Constantinople,  where  Mundy  spent  the  night  in  a  kJidn 
or  posting-inn,  a  place  which  must  have  struck  him  as 
being  widely  different  from  an  English  hostelry.  From 
this  point,  as  far  as  Belgrade,  the  route  followed  was  for 
the  most  part  that  now  used  by  the  Orient  Express,  as 
will  be  seen  from  the  table  g-iven  below. 


Constantinople  to  Belgrade. 


Mundy's  halting-places 
in  1620. 

Constantinople. 

The  Fresh  Rivers. 

Kuchuk  Chekmeje. 

Biyuk  Chekmeje. 

Kumburgas. 

Silivri. 

Chorlu\ 

Karistran. 

Lule-Burgas. 

Baba-eski. 

Khafsa. 

Adrianople. 

Mustafa  Pasha. 

Hermanli. 

Uzunjova. 

Kialik. 

Papasli. 


Stations  of  the  Orient 
Express  in  1907. 

Constantinople. 
Kijchuk  Chekmeje. 


Karistran\ 
Chorlu. 
Lule-Burgas. 
Baba-eski. 

Adrianople. 
Mustafa  Pasha. 
Hermanli. 
Uzunjova. 


Papasli. 


Francis  Lowe,  "  son  of  Sir  Thomas  Lowe  deceased,"  demanded  his 
freedom  and  was  admitted  by  patrimony  on  paying  the  usual  fine  and 
taking  the  oath.  State  Papers,  Foreign  Archives,  Levant  Conipaiiy, 
pp.  79  b,  109  a,  148  a. 

^  Mundy  apparently  put  these  two  places  in  the  wrong  order. 


INTRODUCTION 


XXIX 


Philippopolis. 

Philippopolis. 

Tatar  Bazarjik. 

Tatar  Bazarjik, 

Novi  Khan. 

Kapuli. 

Kapujik. 

Ikhtiman. 

Ikhtiman. 

Sophia. 

Sophia. 

Zaribrod. 

Zaribrod. 

Pirot  (Sharkoi). 

Pirot. 

Qurut  chesme. 

Bela  Palanka. 

Bela  Palanka. 

Nisch. 

Nisch. 

Rashan. 

Para  tj  in. 

Paratjin. 

Yagodin. 

Yagodin. 

Batotschina. 

Batotschina. 

Palanka. 

Palanka. 

Kolar. 

Grotzka. 

Belgrade. 

Belgrade. 

Time  occupied  by  Mundy 
on  the  journey  —  25 
days. 


Time  occupied  by  the  Orient 
Express  on  the  journey 
— 24  hours. 


The  route,  shown  above  and  on  the  map  facing  p.  41, 
was  the  old  post  road,  which  was  still  the  chief  means  of 
communication  from  Constantinople  to  Belgrade  up  to  the 
middle  of  the  nineteenth  century.  A  German  Route  map 
of  1819^  marks  all  the  halting-places  given  in  Mundy's 
list  with  the  exception  of  three  small  villages.  The 
mileage  between  each  place  was  estimated  by  Mundy 
according  to  his  "  whole  dayes  and  halfe  dayes  Journeys^" 
and  is  by  no  means  exact,  though  the  distances  corre- 
spond  roughly  with   those   on    the   German    map.      The 


1  Nouvelle  Carte  des  Pastes  de  rAlleinagiie  on  des  pays  situes  aic 
centre  de  PEtcrope  divisee  dans  ses  Etats  dapres  le  Congres  de  Vienne 
et  les  derniers  Traites  de  Paris,  &c.,  &c.  Par  A.  P.  H.  Nordniann, 
Vienne,  1821. 

^  See  p.  136. 


XXX  INTRODUCTION 

present  editor,  who  travelled  from  Constantinople  to 
Belgrade  in  December  of  1906,  was  able  to  trace  the  old 
post  road,  either  as  a  road  or  a  track,  alongside  the  rail- 
way for  miles. 

From  Kuchuk  Chekmeje,  the  cavalcade  kept  along  the 
sea-shore  for  five  miles  to  Biyuk  Chekmeje,  the  Great 
Bridge.  In  both  of  these  towns  Mundy  remarked  the 
bridges  spanning  the  creeks,  erected  during  the  reign  of 
Sulaiman  the  Magnificent.  At  Biyuk  Chekmeje  the  party 
encamped  for  the  night  in  the  open,  Pindar  having  first  set 
a  guard  and  arranged  for  its  relief  every  two  hours.  Still 
skirting  the  coast  for  fifteen  miles  farther,  the  next  halt  was 
at  Silivri,  the  ancient  Selymbria,  where  again  a  camp  was 
pitched  in  the  open.  The  road  now  turns  northward,  and, 
abandoning  the  coast,  passes  through  a  ravine,  and  Mundy 
very  aptly  describes  this  portion  of  the  route  as  "a  plaine 
Champion  Countrie  without  either  Tree  or  bush  exceptinge 
att  Townes  or  Villages^"  At  Chorlu,  on  the  9th  May,  two 
members  of  the  train  and  an  Armenian  servant,  who  had 
left  at  Kuchuk  Chekmeje,  rejoined  the  party.  The  following 
day  a  distance  of  thirty  miles,  among  open  plateaus,  was 
traversed  as  far  as  Lule-Burgas,  where  a  welcome  supply 
of  fresh  water  was  found.  Between  Baba-eski,  some 
sixteen  miles  from  Burgas,  and  Adrianople,  there  is  a 
long  stretch  of  country,  over  which  the  baggage  waggons 
could  travel  without  any  hindrance. 

In  six  days  Pindar  and  his  party  reached  Adrianople,  a 
journey  that  nowadays  occupies  but  eight  hours.  Here  the 
usual  open-air  encampment  was  impracticable  owing  to 
a  heavy  thunderstorm,  and  the  party  sought  shelter  in  "  a 
better  harbour,  which  was  profered  us,  beinge  a  great  howse 
to  lodge  the  Gran  Signiors  trayne  and  horses,  when  he 
cometh  thither-."  Mundy  has  a  short  description  of  the 
Grand  Signior's  Seraglio  at  Adrianople,  the  first  building 
of  importance  that  he  had  seen  since  he  left  the  Turkish 
capital.     At  Adrianople  "  Stamo  the  Greeke "  quitted  the 

^  See  p.  60  '^  See  p.  49. 


INTRODUCTION  XXXI 

Englishmen  in  order  to  enter  the  service  of  Caspar 
Gratiani,  VoiVode  of  Moldavia,  at  one  time  Pindar's 
dragoman. 

The  travellers  now  proceeded  towards  Philippopolis,  a 
distance  of  ninety-five  miles.  The  road  lies  between  the 
spurs  of  the  Rhodope  and  Balkan  mountains,  and  offers  a 
strong  contrast  to  the  flat  marshy  land  encountered  at  the 
commencement  of  the  journey.  Mundy  remarks  that  "from 
Adrianople  hither  (Philippopolis),  although  the  like  plaine 
ground,  yett  over  growne  with  woods  and  Bushes  of  Oake 
for  the  most  part\" 

A  halt  was  made  at  Mustafa  Pasha,  of  which  place 
Mundy  tells  a  story  relating  to  the  bridge  over  the 
Maritza.  Thence  the  party  proceeded  to  Hermanli, 
thirty-six  miles  from  Adrianople,  where  they  pitched 
near  a  large  khan.  Like  the  emissary  of  Louis  XIII., 
Des  Hayes,  who  travelled  over  the  same  ground  in  the 
following  year,  Pindar  avoided  sleeping  in  a  Turkish  inn 
whenever  practicable.  Keeping  near  the  left  bank  of  the 
Maritza,  the  party  reached  Uzunjova  in  the  valley  of  the 
Usundji.  Thence  they  made  their  way  to  Kialik,  "a  poore 
Towne  of  Christians "  where  there  were  only  "  poore 
howsesV'  in  one  of  which  Pindar  was  compelled  to  lodge. 

Mundy  makes  no  particular  comments  on  his  halting- 
places  between  Constantinople  and  Kialik,  the  first 
"  Christian  village."  He  only  remarks  generally  that  all 
the  "  Townes "  were  "  somewhat  hansome  with  their 
Churches,  Canes  and  Bathes  fairely  builtl"  He  is,  how- 
ever, careful  to  note  the  "  fresh  rivers  "  and  "  stone  bridges," 
such  as  that  at  Khafsa,  near  which  the  party  encamped  on 
the  nth  May  I 

Between  Kialik  and  Papasli,  "  another  poore  Towne  of 
Christians 2,"  the  road  runs  north-west,  closer  to  the  moun- 
tains, leaving  the  Maritza  gradually  to  the  south.  Pindar 
only  stayed  to  dine  at  Papasli  and  proceeded  on  the  same 
day,  the  17th  May,  fifteen  miles  farther,  to  Philippopolis  or 

1  See  p.  60.  2  See  p.  54.  ^  See  p.  49. 


XXXll  INTRODUCTION 

Filibe.  Finding  that  the  plague  was  raging  in  the  city,  the 
ambassador  caused  his  followers  to  cross  the  long  wooden 
bridge  over  the  Maritza  and  to  encamp  on  the  opposite  side 
of  the  river,  at  the  same  time  issuing  strict  orders  forbidding 
any  member  of  his  train  to  enter  the  infected  district.  In 
close  proximity  to  the  travellers'  camp  were  the  gruesome 
remains  of  two  highwaymen  who  had  been  staked  alive  a 
week  previously.  Of  Philippopolis,  Mundy  has  not  much 
to  say  beyond  a  remark  as  to  its  founder  and  its  position 
"  in  a  greate  plaine  with  high  hills  on  either  side,  hard  by  a 
River,  over  which  was  a  tymber  bridged" 

From  Philippopolis  to  Sophia  the  road  traverses  the 
woods  and  valleys  stretching  up  the  slopes  of  the  Rhodope 
mountains,  a  more  picturesque,  but  at  the  same  time  more 
perilous  part  of  the  journey  than  that  hitherto  passed. 
Having  dined  at  Tatar  Bazarjik,  sixteen  miles  beyond 
Philippopolis,  the  party  proceeded  a  few  miles  further  to 
Novi  Khan,  "  a  Christian  villageV'  where  they  remained  for 
the  night.  On  the  19th  May  they  came  to  the  Pass  of 
Kaprulov  Derbend.  By  Pindar's  orders,  each  of  his 
followers  went  through  on  foot,  fully  armed,  in  order  to 
be  ready  to  resist  the  attacks  of  robbers,  but,  says  Mundy, 
"  God  bee  praised,  there  was  none  I" 

Passing  two  villages  of  "  poore  Christians^"  there  were 
more  perils  to  encounter.  At  one  point  was  a  place  so 
infested  with  robbers  that  there  "  wee  mett  a  man  beatinge 
on  a  drumme,  sett  there  of  purpose  to  advise  travellers 
whether  there  bee  theeves  or  noe,  hee  abideinge  in  the  most 
daungerous  place  of  alP."  At  last  the  "  woodie  moun- 
taines  "  were  left  behind  and  a  valley  of  "inhabited  places" 
was  perceived.  Ikhtiman,  "  where  are  ten  other  Townes  in 
sight'*,"  was  the  halting-place  on  the  night  of  the  19th  May. 
Between  Ikhtiman  and  Sophia  was  another  lurking  place  of 
robbers,  and  here  again  a  drummer  was  posted  to  give  the 
alarm  to  travellers.  On  nearing  Sophia,  the  extensive  view 
of  the  enclosed    plateau    in  which    the   city  lies   greatly 

1  See  p.  55.  2  See  p.  60.  ^  See  p.  61.  *  See  p.  61  f. 


INTRODUCTION  xxxiii 

impressed  Mundy,  as  he  came  upon  it  after  several  days 
of  wandering  among  devious  mountain  paths.  But  the 
traveller  should  not  be  misled  by  this  description,  as,  after 
it  is  entered,  the  plateau  is  in  reality  distinctly  dreary. 
Mundy  calls  the  table-land  a  "plaine"  and  notes  "about 
twenty  Townes  and  villages  in  the  said  plaine  all  in  sight 
togeather^"  The  cavalcade  halted  for  a  whole  day  at 
Sophia.  During  this  time,  Pindar  paid  a  ceremonial 
visit  to  the  Viceroy  of  Rumelia,  who  was  on  his  way  to 
the  shores  of  the  Black  Sea  to  repress  a  Cossack  raid. 

On  the  22nd  May,  two  miles  beyond  Sophia,  the  party 
was  augmented  by  two  soldiers,  sent  by  the  Viceroy  as 
a  special  guard  for  Pindar,  and  by  a  chawiish  (important 
official)  with  an  escort  of  Janissaries  in  charge  of  treasure 
for  Buda.  Mundy  does  not  mention  when  the  first  guard 
of  Janissaries,  who  escorted  the  ambassador  from  Constan- 
tinople, left  the  party,  but  it  is  hardly  probable  that  they 
proceeded  farther  than  Adrianople. 

A  halt  was  made  for  dinner  in  the  plain  of  the  Isker. 
Thence,  to  Zaribrod,  the  travellers  had  an  unpleasant 
experience,  "entringe  among  Rockie  Hills,  wee  were  over- 
taken with  rayne,  where  wee  had  not  only  a  dangerous 
passage  by  reason  of  Theeves,  but  very  troublesome  and 
wearisome  by  reason  of  the  rocky  stony  way  and  durtie 
weather-."  When  at  last  Zaribrod  was  reached,  "Lodginge" 
was  found  to  be  "very  scarse,"  and  Pindar  himself  had 
to  put  up  with  cottage  accommodation.  The  next  day 
matters  were  little  better,  and  the  horses  so  weary  "  by 
reason  of  the  dirtie  way  "  that  a  halt  was  made  at  midday 
at  Pirot,  where  the  jaded  animals  rested  until  the  next 
morning.  The  Janissaries  and  the  chazviisJi,  however,  pushed 
on,  "  their  busines  requiring  more  hastl"  Their  place  as 
protectors  was  taken  by  fourteen  cavalry  soldiers  {sipdhi) 
furnished  to  Pindar  in  accordance  with  an  order  from  the 
Grand  Signior.  The  ambassador  had  also  full  licence  to 
impound  provisions  in  the  various  stopping  places  on  his 

1  See  p.  63.  ^  See  p.  66. 

M.  c 


xxxiv  INTRODUCTION 

way  to  Belgrade.  Of  this  latter  privilege  he  did  not  avail 
himself,  as  he  would  be  "  wronging  the  poore  Christians 
thereby^" 

Passing  along  the  valley  of  the  Morava,  the  travellers 
came  upon  a  deserted  Christian  village  and  made  their  way 
to  Bela  Palanka,  where  they  found  a  stockade,  in  which 
Turkish  soldiers  were  intrenched  to  repel  any  incursion 
of  marauding  Christians^  An  additional  body-guard  of 
thirty-one  soldiers  from  this  fortification  accompanied 
Pindar  half  way  through  the  rugged  steeps  and  defiles 
to  Nisch,  the  district  being  especially  notorious  for  robbers. 
When  the  most  dangerous  part  of  the  route  was  accom- 
plished in  safety,  the  escort  was  dismissed  with  a  reward 
and  a  certificate  of  efficiency.  The  remainder  of  the  road 
to  Nisch  is  described  as  "although  not  soe  dangerous  and 
mountainous,  yett  altogeather  soe  stonie  and  dirtied" 
At  Nisch  Mundy  noted  the  bridge  over  the  Nissava,  "  a 
Castle  none  of  the  best"  and  some  ruined  walls'. 

On  the  26th  May,  a  few  miles  on  the  road  towards 
Belgrade,  Pindar's  party  overtook  the  chawush  and  Janis- 
saries who  had  left  them  at  Pirot^  Travelling  was  now 
easier,  "  the  way  beinge  faire  and  plaine,  although  desert 
{i.e.,  deserted)  and  full  of  woods^"  At  Rashan  their  lodging 
was  for  once  in  a  khan. 

The  next  day  the  travellers  passed  through  the  small 
village  of  Paratjin  and  came  to  the  banks  of  the  Morava, 
where  the  lack  of  a  bridge  caused  a  loss  of  "  four  howres  at 
least  in  passinge  our  selves  and  necessaries  I"  The  halting- 
place  that  night  was  Yagodin,  where  there  was  another  of 
the  palangJias  or  fortified  stockades.  Winding  next  day 
along  the  mountain  slopes,  the  party  halted  at  Batotschina 
for  dinner,  probably  about  midday,  reaching  later  on  Hassan 
Pasha's  Palanka,  "  the  fairest  wee  savve  hetherto."  Again 
they  spent  the  night  in  '•  a  large  CaneV 

On  the  29th  May,  the  cavalcade  passed  through  Kolar, 


1  See  p.  67. 

2  See  p.  68. 

^  See  p.  69. 

*  See  p.  66. 

^  See  p.  'JO. 

6  See  p.  71. 

INTRODUCTION  XXXV 

amid  the  dense  forests  bordering  the  Danube.  Grotzka, 
situated  on  this  "  the  most  famous  river  in  Europe,"  was 
the  next  halting-place.  Both  at  Kolar  and  at  Grotzka, 
Mundy  noi&d palanghas,  and  at  the  latter  place  "two  great 
stone  Canes "  also,  Pindar,  however,  avoided  the  khans 
and  "  pitched  neere  the  Towne^"  where,  as  at  Philippopolis, 
his  camp  was  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  remains  of  a 
man  staked  for  robbery. 

On  the  30th  May,  the  twenty-fifth  day  after  the 
departure  from  Constantinople,  the  ex-ambassador  and 
his  followers  arrived  at  Belgrade.  "  Heere  my  Lord  hired 
a  howse  being  determined  to  stay  some  few  daies^."  As  a 
matter  of  fact,  Pindar  spent  eight  days  in  Belgrade,  and 
Mundy  had  an  ample  opportunity  of  exercising  his  powers 
of  observation.  He  was  greatly  struck  by  the  "  thirty-five 
floating  milles"  on  the  river  near  the  city,  "makeinge  as 
faire  a  shewe  afarr  of[f]  as  they  were  handsome  within-." 
It  is  interesting  to  note  that  now,  nearly  three  hundred 
years  after  this  account  was  written,  there  are  still  water- 
mills  of  the  same  kind  at  Belgrade.  The  abundance, 
variety,  and  cheapness  of  the  fish  to  be  obtained  from 
the  Danube  also  attracted  Mundy's  attention.  In  the  city 
itself  he  remarked  that  the  buildings,  "Churches,  Besistenes, 
bathes  and  Canes  excepted,"  were  "  generally  made  of 
Boards,"  but  that  "  howsoever,  those  wooden  buildings 
make  a  faire  shewe,  beinge  very  handsomely  contrived -V 
The  castle  and  fortifications  are  described  at  some  length, 
with  special  reference  to  the  "  Clocke  which  is  heard 
over  all  the  Cittie''."  Other  objects  in  Belgrade  which 
appealed  to  Mundy  were  the  "  Ferrie  boats  of  one  peece," 
the  "  greate  boates  for  carrieing  too  and  froe  Corne,  wood, 
salt  etts.,"  the  "Artillery  howse^"  with  its  trophies  from  the 
siege  of  Kaniza,  and  the  rivers  Danube  and  Save  with  their 
unequal  currents.  He  was  also  interested  in  the  various 
nationalities  dwelling  in  the  city. 

^  See  p.  71.  ^  See  p.  72.  ^  See  p.  73  f. 

*  See  p.  74.  5  See  p.  75. 


xxxvi  INTRODUCTION 

At  Belgrade  Pindar  discharged  the  baggage  waggons  in 
view  of  the  "mountainous  waie^"  to  be  traversed  before 
reaching  Spalato.  He  paid  a  state  visit  to  the  kdzl  during 
his  stay,  which  was  apparently  prolonged  by  the  difficulty 
of  procuring  horses  "  for  our  farther  proceede,  there  being 
none  in  Towne,  only  those  newely  arrived  from  other 
partsV  At  Belgrade  the  travellers  lost  the  services  of 
Thaddeus  Murad,  the  Armenian  engaged  "  to  dresse  vic- 
tualls^"  This  man,  who  was  the  servant  of  Mr  Wilson, 
was  permitted  to  return  to  Constantinople,  taking  with  him 
a  Bulgarian  woman  whom  he  had  secured  as  a  bride  for  his 
brother. 

On  the  7th  June,  Pindar  and  his  party  left  Belgrade 
and  entered  on  a  more  toilsome  stage  of  their  journey. 
The  heat  was  intense  for  the  first  three  days,  and  the 
cavalcade  only  covered  thirty  miles.  A  compulsory  halt 
was  made  at  noon,  and  at  night  the  camp  was  pitched  "  in 
the  feilds."  On  the  9th  June,  Valjevo  was  reached.  Pindar's 
tent  was  set  up  beside  the  Kolubara  river  and  the  party 
refreshed  themselves  with  "Cherries  at  a  farthinge  a  pound." 
At  night  the  ordinary  watch  was  augmented  by  a  guard  of 
twenty  men  sent  by  the  kdzl  for  protection,  "the  place  being 
somewhat  dangerous  for  Theeves^."  On  entering  Valjevo, 
Mundy  noted  the  remains  of  two  of  these  gentry  who  had 
been  staked  as  a  warning  to  their  fellows. 

On  the  lOth  June,  travelling  was  more  pleasant  both  as 
regards  way  and  weather,  the  day  "  not  very  hott  of  it  selfe  " 
and  "our  waie  beinge  through  shadie  woods... ascendinge 
and  descendinge  pleasant  mountains'."  The  travellers  now 
entered  the  mountain  system,  of  Bosnia  and  Herzegovina. 
They  seem  to  have  followed  the  valley  of  the  Jablanitza, 
crossed  the  Medvednjik  Planina  or  mountain  pasture  and 
descended  into  the  valley  of  the  Ljubowija.  Mundy  was 
much  impressed  with  the  truly  Alpine  scenery,  the 
"  mountains  which  exceeded  all  others  that  ever  I  sawe  for 
height   and   beautie,  not   steeple,  but  gentlie    riseinge    by 

1  See  p.  72.      2  See  p.  75.      ^  gee  p.  76.      *  See  p.  78.      ^  See  p.  78  f. 


INTRODUCTION  XXXVli 

degrees,  the  Topps  being  as  good  ground  as  the  bottome 
and  as  firtill^"  He  marvelled  that  "this  pleasant  peece  of 
Countrey  "  should  be  allowed  to  lie  "  in  a  manner  waste, 
and  growen  with  weeds  and  woods  of  exceeding  high 
trees\"  The  descent  to  the  valley  of  the  Ljubowija  was 
steep  and  the  "  quantitie  of  good  ripe  Strawburryes^"  found 
near  the  river  must  have  been  welcome. 

On  the  iith  June,  the  party  was  ferried  over  the  river 
Drina,  and,  six  miles  farther,  they  halted,  apparently  near 
the  Jadar  river,  where  they  "  dined  and  past  the  heat  of  the 
day-."  Here  Mundy  noted  the  site  of  the  ancient  silver 
mines  of  Srebreniza,  and  a  khan  in  the  neighbourhood,  by 
which  the  camp  was  pitched. 

On  the  1 2th  June,  the  toilsome  ascent  of  the  Romanja 
Planina  was  accomplished.  It  was  found  to  be  "  much 
higher  than  wee  expected  ^"  At  the  foot  of  the  mountain 
the  travellers  probably  looked  for  civilization,  but  their  road 
lay  for  "  twelve  miles  farther  through  a  plaine  where  were 
only  six  or  seven  villages  and  many  scatteringe  dwellings, 
all  made  of  wood,  where  was  neither  bread  nor  wyne,  nor 
any  thinge  els  to  bee  had  butt  att  very  dear  ratesl" 

On  the  13th  June,  after  a  fifteen  miles  journey,  "for 
eight  miles  the  way  reasonable  plaine,  but  from  thence... 
very  mountainous  and  rocky^,"  Sarajevo  was  reached. 
Since  the  7th  June  the  party  had  only  traversed  93^  miles, 
or  about  thirteen  miles  per  day,  as  against  the  average  of 
twenty-one  miles  per  day  between  Constantinople  and 
Belgrade.  The  bad  roads,  mountainous  country  and  great 
heat  all  contributed  to  delay  their  progress. 

Two  clear  days  were  spent  in  Sarajevo  in  order  to 
procure  fresh  horses  for  the  remaining  distance  to  Spalato. 
The  cost  of  hire  from  Belgrade  to  Sarajevo  was  about 
V2S.  6d.,  and  thence  to  Spalato  about  lOi".  6d.  per  horse. 
A  long  halt  at  Sarajevo  was  undesirable,  as,  owing  to  the 
piratical  acts  of  the  Uscocs,  who  were  believed  to  have 
been  encouraged  by  the  Venetians,  all  Europeans  were  in 

^  See  p.  79.  ^  See  p.  80.  ^  See  p.  80  f.  *  See  p.  81. 


XXXVlll  INTRODUCTION 

ill-odour  in  the  city,  and  the  people  "very  bigg  and  tall... 
very  discourteous  to  Francks^"  Pindar,  therefore,  "haveing 
taken  a  howse,"  in  order  to  avoid  altercations,  "  forbadd 
anie  to  stirr  out  of  doores\"  In  spite  of  this  prohibition, 
Mundy  seems  to  have  seen  the  chief  objects  of  interest  in 
the  Bosnian  capital.  He  tells  us  that  it  "  lyeth  among  the 
Hills,"  and  that  "the  howses  heere  in  generall  have  theire 
walls  of  Clay\"  He  notes  the  castle  built  by  Cotroman, 
the  large  number  of  mosques  and  the  equally  large  number 
of  water-mills  on  the  Miljacka,  "lyeinge  one  lower  then 
another,  each  haveinge  but  one  little  wheele,  which  the 
water  turneth-." 

On  the  1 6th  June,  the  party  set  out  for  the  last  and 
most  difficult  part  of  their  journey,  namely  over  the 
mountains  to  Spalato.  As  far  as  Lisicici  they  took  the 
route  now  followed  by  the  Sarajevo-Mostar  railway.  Their 
first  stage  was  Pazaric^.  Thence,  to  the  village  of  Ivan  on 
the  ridge  of  the  Ivan  Planina,  the  way  was  "  mountainous 
and  rocky 2."  On  the  17th  June,  they  came  to  Konjica, 
"a  goode  Towne"  on  the  Narenta,  "a  prettie  river... cleire, 
greenish  and  verye  swifts"  Following  the  river  for  seven 
miles,  they  reached  Lisicici,  where  they  dined. 

From  this  point  the  travellers  went  by  local  roads,  and 
it  is  difficult  to  follow  them,  especially  as  Mundy's  account 
of  this  part  of  the  journey  is  somewhat  confused.  It  is 
clear  that,  after  leaving  Lisicici,  the  party  followed  the 
Narenta  as  far  as  its  junction  with  the  Rama.  Then  they 
left  the  Narenta  and  kept  beside  the  Rama  for  some  few 
miles  when  they  crossed  it  "by  a  bridged"  After  this,  the 
route  is  very  indistinct.  The  party  ascended  "  an  ex- 
ceedinge  high  Mountaine  and  steepy^"  and  found  them- 
selves on  an  elevated  plateau  with  another  mountain  facing 
them,  "  altogether  soe  high  but  much  more  steepy^^."  On 
the  i8th  June,  they  were  confronted  by  a  third  "high 
mountaine  which  had  little  descent  to  bee  perceived*." 
This  proved   to  be  the  last  of  the  fearsome   heights  to 

1  See  p.  81.  2  See  p.  82.  ^  See  p.  83.  *  See  p.  84. 


INTRODUCTION  XXXIX 

be  surmounted  before  the  travellers  reached  the  plateau 
of  Borovaglava  on  the  Prologh  mountains.  Here  their 
eyes  were  gladdened  by  the  sight  of  civilization,  for,  in 
the  plateau,  though  "  environed  with  stonie  barren  hills," 
there  "  were  store  of  villages  and  other  dwellings "  with 
clearings  "  to  prevent  Theeves  that  usually  lurked  amonge 
(the  Forrests  of  Pine  trees) \"  Crossing  the  plateau  in  a 
southerly  direction,  the  party  encamped  for  the  night  near 
a  spring. 

On  the  19th  June,  the  dining  place  was  by  "a  great 
Lake^ "  which  is  not  named  by  Mundy,  and  may  be  either 
the  Semaroromo  Blato  or  the  Rusko  Blato.  From  either 
of  these  the  way  is  "stony  and  rockey"  as  far  as  the  river 
Cettina.  When  the  Cettina,  the  "  river  of  a  marvelous  slowe 
motion  2,"  was  reached,  the  travellers'  troubles  were  prac- 
tically over.  They  spent  the  night  in  a  khan  and  crossed 
the  river  "  by  boate  "  on  the  20th  June,  1620.  Their  dining- 
place  was  beneath  the  famous  castle  of  Clyssa,  "  built  on  a 
high  cragked  Rock-,"  whence,  a  mile  farther,  the  party 
entered  Venetian  territory.  Once  over  the  boundary,  a 
startling  change  was  apparent.  "  Wee  entred  into  Christen- 
dome,  then  seeminge  to  bee  in  a  new  World,  such  was  the 
alteration  wee  found,  not  only  in  the  Inhabitants,  but  also 
in  the  Soylel"  Mundy  grows  quite  enthusiastic  in  his 
description  of  the  three  miles  of  country  between  the 
Turkish  territory  and  the  gates  of  Spalato.  He  remarks 
that  even  the  stones  were  turned  to  a  useful  purpose  and 
served  instead  of  hedges,  and  that,  in  the  cornfields  "  they 
being  then  reapinge,  were  rancks  in  the  Furrowes  of  Olive 
trees,  Pomgranett  Trees,  Pines  and  figg  trees ^"  The 
"  watch  Towers "  erected  as  places  of  refuge  by  the 
Venetians  "on  the  hills  alongst  the  sea  Coast^"  are  also 
noted. 

At  Spalato  the  travellers  were  immediately  placed  in 
quarantine,  but  were  treated  with  great  consideration, 
special  rooms  being  allotted  to  Pindar  and  his  company 

1  See  p.  84.  2  See  p.  85.  3  See  p.  85  f.  *  See  p.  87. 


xl  INTRODUCTION 

and  "beddinge,  lynnen,  Tables,  Chaires  and  necessaries" 
being  sent  in  to  him,  also  "  fresh  Victualls  soe  that  wee 
wanted  nothing  but  liberties"  As  soon  as  he  was  esta- 
blished in  the  Lazaretto,  Pindar  received  a  visit  from  the 
Venetian  governor  of  Spalato,  "  th'  one  sittinge  without 
the  gate,  and  thother  within,  a  good  way  a  sunder^" 
Two  days  later  the  Governor  paid  another  visit,  when 
Pindar  obtained  the  release  of  John  Clarke,  one  of  his 
servants.  After  being  disinfected,  Clarke  "was  licensed^" 
and  proceeded  to  Venice  to  prepare  for  the  reception  of  his 
master.  Instead  of  the  usual  "  forty,  thirty,  twenty,  fifteen" 
days'  detention  in  quarantine,  Pindar  and  his  followers  had 
"Prattick"  on  the  tenth  day,  "but  herein  his  Lordshipp 
was  greatly  favoured"." 

While  Mr  Lane  was  making  arrangements  for  trans- 
porting the  party  to  Venice,  Pindar,  "  with  the  Gentlemen^" 
dined  at  the  Governor's  house.  Meanwhile,  Mundy  had  a 
cursory  glance  at  the  town  of  Spalato,  which  he  found 
"  strongly  built,  furnished  with  many  soldiers  and  many 
brave,  stout  edifices,  although  auntientl" 

On  the  night  of  the  29th  June,  being  furnished  with 
their  certificate  of  health,  the  party  set  out  in  a  "  barke  of 
Tenn  Tonnes,"  together  with  the  "  Frenchmen,"  who  had 
"hired  another  for  themselves^"  Skirting  the  Dalmatian 
coast,  the  boats  passed  the  garrison  town  of  Zara,  where 
Sir  Henry  Peyton's  detachment  of  soldiers,  sent  for  the 
assistance  of  the  Venetian  Republic,  was  then  stationed. 
The  wind  was  favourable,  and  the  ships  made  good  pro- 
gress, "  alwaies  among  small  Islands,  verie  stoney  and  barren 
as  the  Mayne  seemed  to  beeV  On  the  ist  July  they  passed 
through  the  narrow  Canal  d'Ossero,  between  Cherso  and 
Lussin.  Sailing  across  the  Gulf  of  Quarnero  to  the  Punta 
di  Promontore  on  the  2nd  July,  the  vessels  steered  through 
the  Canale  di  Fasana  between  the  island  of  Brioni  and  "the 
Mayne,"  where  Mundy  noted  the  "  prettie  harbour^"  of 
Pola,  then  an  insignificant  town.     Owing  to  the  presence  of 

1  See  p.  87.  2  See  p.  87  f.  ^  See  p.  88.  "  See  p.  89. 


INTRODUCTION  xH 

a  galleass  off  Pola,  it  was  thought  that  "provision  would  bee 
scarse,"  and  Pindar's  party  went  on  to  Rovigno.  Here  the 
*'  Captaine  of  the  place  invited  his  Lordshipp  and  Gentle- 
men home  to  his  howse\" 

On  the  evening  of  the  following  day,  the  3rd  July,  1620, 
*'  the  wynde  coming  faire^"  the  party  again  set  sail,  and, 
crossing  the  Gulf  of  Venice  entered  the  '  Queen  of  the 
Adriatic'  through  the  channel  of  S.  Andrea  del  Lido, 
having  spent  four  days  at  sea.  The  short  voyage  was 
probably  a  welcome  change  after  the  toilsome  journey 
from  Sarajevo  and  the  ten  days'  confinement  at  Spalato. 
At  S.  Andrea,  the  boat  was  stopped  by  the  sanitary  officer, 
who  inspected  the  travellers'  health  certificate  and  gave 
them  "  leave  to  goe  whether  wee  would-."  The  boat  pro- 
ceeded to  "  the  verie  faire  howse^ "  on  the  Cannaregio,  which 
John  Clarke  had  taken  for  the  ex-ambassador  during  his 
stay  in  Venice.  The  house  belonged  to  a  Venetian  noble- 
man and  was  rented  at  ;^20  per  month,  while  the  fur- 
niture, plate,  etc.,  were  hired  of  Jews  at  the  rate  of  i^io 
per  month.  Mundy  was  much  impressed  with  the  interior 
decorations  of  this  house,  which  was  "  as  curious  within  as 
it  was  faire  without^" 

Pindar  remained  a  month  in  Venice,  during  which  he 
paid  and  received  ceremonial  visits  from  the  ambassadors 
of  Spain  and  Savoy,  and  also  had  constant  intercourse  with 
Sir  Henry  Peyton  and  his  officers^  While  he  was  thus 
employed,  his  followers  were  free  to  explore  the  city.  Of 
all  the  sights  of  Venice,  Mundy  considered  the  arsenal  "the 
most  worthy  notice'."  The  extent  of  the  place  and  the 
variety  and  completeness  of  the  work  carried  on  within  its 
precincts  aroused  his  wonder  and  admiration*'.  He  was 
shown  the  famous  Bucentaur  and  heard  an  account  of  the 
ceremony  in  which  she  took  part  each  Ascensiontide". 
Other  objects  of  interest  in  Venice,  such  as  St  Mark's,  the 

^  See  p.  89.     The  Capitano  of  Istria  is  still  the  chief  ofificial  of  the 
Peninsula,  having  his  Head  Quarters  at  Parenzo,  north  of  Rovigno. 
'■^  See  p.  90.  ^  See  p.  gr.  *  See  p.  92  f. 

^  See  p.  97.  "  See  pp.  93,  94,  96.  "  See  p.  95. 


xlii  INTRODUCTION 

Campanile,  the  canals,  the  Rialto,  etc.  are  only  lightly- 
touched  on,  but  the  gondolas  receive  more  attention \  On 
the  whole,  Mundy  opined  that,  in  Venice  are  "  wayes  tO' 
gett,  but  many  more  to  spend"." 

On  the  4th  August,  1620,  Pindar  and  his  train  set  out 
for  Turin,  travelling  by  boat  up  the  Brenta  to  Padua^ 
"which  boates,  after  our  comeinge  into  the  River,  are  drawne 
with  horses^."  On  the  way  Mundy  noted  the  "pleasant 
Country  howses  of  the  Nobillitie  and  gentlemen  of  Venice."' 
At  Padua  the  party  lodged  for  three  nights  at  The  Golden 
Star.  While  there,  Pindar  exchanged  visits  with  the  young- 
Lord  Maltravers  and  his  brother,  who  were  studying  at  the 
University^  In  the  city  Mundy  remarked  the  "  many 
voyd  places  and  ruynes''."  He  has  no  comment  on  any  of 
the  public  buildings  except  the  Hall  "to  heere  lawe  suites^"" 

From  Padua  to  Verona  the  party  travelled  by 
"  Caroches^."  It  was  now  augmented  by  three  followers, 
but  lost  Thomas  Humes  "the  ScottishmanV' who  remained 
at  Padua.  Randolph  Symes,  the  Levant  Company's  agent 
for  the  transmission  of  letters  at  Venice  and  the  neighbour- 
hood, accompanied  Pindar  as  far  as  Vicenza  and  stayed 
with  him  at  The  Three  Kings.  On  the  7th  August,  the 
travellers  dined  at  Villa  Nuova  and  reached  The  Cavaletta 
at  Verona  on  the  same  day.  The  "  Amphitheater"  in  this 
"famous  and  auntienf^"  city  claimed  Mundy's  attention. 
In  1655,  while  on  his  third  voyage  to  India  on  the  Alleppo 
Alejxhajit,  he  added  to  his  earlier  description  a  further 
account  from  the  Travels  of  George  Sandys ^ 

The  cavalcade  was  now  following  the  post  road  tO' 
Milan.  On  the  8th  August,  the  travellers  passed  through 
Cavalcaselle  and  went  thence  to  Peschiera,  "  a  stronge 
Castle"  at  the  end  of  "Lago  de  Garda... wherein  are  vessells 
both  for  fishinge  and  transportation ^"  The  resting  place 
that  night  was  at  The  Venetian  Arms  in  Lonato. 

^  See  p.  97  f.  2  See  p.  98.  ^  See  p.  100. 

*  See  p.  99.  ''  See  p.  43.  "  See  p.  loi. 

''  See  p.  102  f.  ^  See  p.  104. 


INTRODUCTION  xliii 

On  the  9th  August,  Brescia  was  reached  and  the  party 
dined  at  "  the  signe  of  the  Tower,  a  very  faire  Hosteria  or 
Inne\"  Here  Mundy  noted  the  fortifications  and  the 
"good  Castle  which  is  noe  more  then  needs,  it  standing  soe 
neare  the  Spanish  Dominions^"  At  Brescia,  too,  he  first 
observed  sufferers  from  goitre,  a  malady  to  which  he  makes 
frequent  allusions.  Late  in  the  evening  of  the  9th  August, 
the  travellers  arrived  at  The  Spread  Eagle  at  Orzi  Vecchi. 
Passing  Orzi  Nuovi,  "a  very  strong  walled  and  well  kept 
Town-,''  the  road  led  to  the  river  Oglio,  M^hich  was  crossed 
by  boat.  Since  leaving  Venice  the  party  had  had  "  extra- 
ordinary pleasaunt  travellinge^"  through  cultivated  country. 
The  vineyards  and  the  method  of  training  the  vines 
especially  excited  Mundy's  admiration.  From  Soncino,  "a 
walled  Towne,"  then  under  the  Duchy  of  Milan,  Pindar 
and  his  train  passed  on  to  Crema,  also  a  "  walled  TowneV' 
but  in  Venetian  territory.  Four  miles  beyond  Crema,  the 
boundary  proper  of  the  Duchy  of  Milan  was  reached,  and 
thence  the  party  pushed  on  to  Lodi,  where  the  wooden 
bridge  over  the  Adda  was  broken,  "  soe  past  it  over  by 
boate,  and  dyned  at  the  Catt  and  the  bell."  The  night 
was  spent  at  The  Eagle  and  Horn  at  Malegnano.  On  the 
evening  of  the  following  day,  the  iith  August,  1620,  "wee 
came  to  the  greate  Cittie  of  Millan  and  dyned  att  the 
Three  Kings^"  On  his  way  out  of  Milan,  Pindar  met  the 
Duke  of  Feria,  the  Governor,  and  went  "  back  to  our 
lodging  with  him,  where  hee  stayed  a  quarter  of  aw  hower 
and  departeds"  In  the  evening  Pindar  returned  the  visit. 
While  this  interchange  of  civilities  was  taking  place,  Mundy 
seized  the  opportunity  to  visit  the  Cathedral,  where  he  saw 
the  tomb  of  the  celebrated  Cardinal  Boromeo,  "  with  lights 
continually  burninge."  In  the  morning,  on  the  way  out  of 
the  city,  Mundy  noted  the  castle  of  Milan,  "  accounted  one 
of  the  strongest  in  Christendome'*." 

The  Naviglio-Grande  Canal,  on  which  Mundy  remarked 
the   "  great   flatt   bottomed    BoatesV'  laden  with  country 

1  See  p.  104.  2  See  p.  105.  ^  See  p.  106. 

*  See  p.  107.  ^  See  p.  108. 


xliv  INTRODUCTION 

produce  for  Milan,  was  crossed  by  a  bridge.  Two  miles 
farther,  the  party  came  to  the  Ticino,  "  verye  great  and 
swifteV  over  which  boats  conveyed  them  to  the  other  side, 
where  there  was  no  further  hindrance  to  their  progress, 
and  nearly  forty  miles  were  covered  in  the  day.  Between 
Novara  and  Vercelli  the  boundary  of  the  Duchy  of  Milan 
was  passed,  and  the  travellers  entered  the  territory  of  the 
Duke  of  Savoy.  At  Vercelli  were  many  evidences  of  the 
siege  of  1617,  "a  great  number  of  dwellings,  etts.  buildings, 
battered  downe  and  levelled  with  the  grounds"  Here  the 
night  was  spent  at  The  Cardinal's  Hat.  On  the  13th 
August  they  dined  at  The  Angel  at  Sian,  and  reached  The 
Golden  Lion  at  Chivasso  the  same  evening. 

The  next  day  the  party  arrived  at  Turin,  "  the  principall 
seate  of  the  Duke  of  Savoy-,"  where  Pindar,  as  an  ex- 
ambassador,  had  a  grand  reception  both  from  Sir  Isaac 
Wake,  the  English  ambassador,  and  from  representatives  of 
the  Duke  of  Savoy  ;  "himselfe  was  now  absent^."  He  was 
lodged  in  "  a  very  faire  howse  of  the  Dukes  ready 
furnished^"  and  had  a  suite  of  servants  appointed  to  attend 
him  ;  "Also  the  provisions  att  the  Dukes  charged"  During 
his  two  days'  stay  in  Turin,  Pindar  paid  formal  visits  to  the 
various  members  of  the  family  of  the  Duke  of  Savoy.  He 
also  went  to  see  "the  Dukes  great  Gallerye^"  with  its 
"  Curious  statues  and  Pictures,  with  48  presses  of  bookes 
and  great  store  of  Armour^" 

For  the  next  portion  of  the  journey  fresh  horses  were 
hired  to  go  as  far  as  Lyons,  at  about  £4.  each,  and  on  the 
afternoon  of  the  i6th  August,  1620,  the  party  was  escorted 
out  of  the  city  with  great  pomp,  the  two  ambassadors 
riding  "  both  in  one  Coach^ "  as  far  as  the  "  Three  flowre  de 
Luces "  at  Avigliana,  where  Sir  Isaac  Wake  remained 
until  the  following  morning.  The  travellers  then  proceeded 
to  The  Three  Pigeons  at  Bussolena  and  prepared  to  "enter 
the  Alpesl"  From  Bussolena  they  went  on  to  Novalese, 
where  they  put  up  for  the  night.     On  the   i8th   August, 

^  See  p.  108.  2  5gg  p_  jQg  3  See  p.  no. 

*  See  p.  III.  ^  See  p.  112. 


INTRODUCTION  xlv 

they  began  the  ascent  of  Mt.  Cenis  "  which  wee  found  to 
be  steepie  and  Rockey^"  Having  passed  the  boundary 
between  Savoy  and  Piedmont,  they  continued  the  ascent  to 
the  "  faire,  cleire  Lake"  on  the  top\  near  which  was  the 
building  erected  for  the  reception  of  Princess  Christine, 
when,  a  year  previously,  she  had  journeyed  from  France  to 
Savoy  as  the  affianced  bride  of  Victor-Amadeus,  the  Duke's 
eldest  son.  At  this  "howse"  the  Duke  himself  was  in 
waiting  for  Pindar's  party,  and  "  his  Lordshipp  went  to 
visitt  and  thanck  his  highnes  for  the  great  honour  and 
loveinge  entertainement  which  hee  had  received  att  Turing" 
Now  began  the  "discent  of  the  mountaine^"  which  was 
"  wonderfull  Steepie,  soe  that  every  man  allighted,  my  Lord 
beinge  carried  downe  in  a  chaire  betweene  Two  men  I"  At 
Lanslebourg  the  travellers  dined  at  The  Three  Kings.  On 
the  Piedmont  side  of  the  mountain  Mundy  found  the  patois 
"  hard  for  us  to  understands" 

From  Lanslebourg,  the  road  lay  along  the  valley  of  the 
Arc,  "  there  beinge  all  the  way  great  falls  of  WaterV' 
thence  to  St  Michel  and  St  Jean  de  Maurienne,  "  a  Stronge 
walled  Towne^"  and  the  only  one  (except  Chambery) 
"  among  the  Alpes  "  commended  by  Mundy.  All  the  rest 
"were  very  poorely  built  and  as  poorely  inhabited',''  the 
people,  too,  were,  many  of  them,  sufferers  from  goitre,  some 
of  them  having  "greate  Wenns  under  their  Chinns...as 
bigg  as  a  mans  heads"  At  Aiguebelle,  on  the  29th 
August,  the  party  split  up,  Pindar  and  his  immediate 
entourage  going  on  to  Montmelian,  while  the  "  Servants 
and  stuffe  remained  heereS"  On  the  arrival  of  the  baggage 
at  Chambery,  the  servants  heard  that  their  master  had 
"  passed  forward  "  to  Aiguebelette.  At  Chambery,  Mundy 
and  his  companions  enjoyed  the  comforts  provided  at  The 
Golden  Apple,  "a  Compleat  howse  and  very  good  enter- 
tainementS"  The  town,  "the  laste... within  the  Alpes,"  is 
described  as  "  the  fairest "  with  "  handsome  comely  buildings 
tiled  with  slates S" 


1  See  p.  113.  ^Seep.  ii3f.  ^  See  p.  114. 

*  Seep.  115.      ■  5  Seep.  117.  "  Seep.  116. 


xlvi  INTRODUCTION 

There  yet  remained  the  peak  of  Aiguebelette,  which 
though  "very  steepy  upp  and  downed"  was  crossed  on  the 
22nd  August,  1620.  At  Pont  de  Beauvoisin,  the  boundary 
between  France  and  Savoy,  Pindar  awaited  his  servants 
and  baggage.  The  united  party  proceeded  to  Bourgoin 
and  thence  to  the  "  Posthowse^"  at  La  Verpilliere.  On  the 
24th  August,  they  reached  Lyons,  where  Mundy  noted  the 
floating-mills  on  the  Rhone  and  Saone,  but  found  them 
"  much  inferior  in  Beautie  and  bignes "  to  "  those  of 
Belgrade-."  He  had  no  time  to  examine  the  buildings  at 
Lyons  on  account  of  his  short  stay  there,  and  he  only 
remarks  of  the  city  that  it  was  "great  and  populous. ..of 
great  Traffique,  aboundinge  with  Merchants  and  Shopp- 
keepersV 

On  the  25  th  August,  the  party  again  divided.  This 
time  the  "  Attendants  "  went  on  with  fresh  horses  to  Tarare, 
"  my  Lord  etts.  being  to  come  after^."  Being  unimpeded 
with  baggage,  the  gentlemen  had  no  difficulty  in  overtaking 
the  servants  and  pack-horses  at  Roanne  on  the  following 
day.  Here  fresh  transport  arrangements  were  made.  The 
horses  were  dismissed  and  two  boats  were  hired,  at  a  cost 
of  about  £4.  los.,  to  convey  the  party  down  the  Loire  to 
Orleans.  Owing  to  the  shallowness  of  the  river,  the  boats 
were  "  aground  twenty  or  thirty  tymes  every  day^"  and 
Orleans  was  not  reached  until  the  eighth  day  after  leaving 
Roanne.  Mundy  found  "  all  the  Countrey  downe  the  River 
very  pleasant  and  full  of  Citties,  Townes,  villages  and  build- 
ings, meadowes,  gardens,  etts.'*"  St  Aubin-sur-Loire  and 
La  Charite  were  the  halting-places  on  the  29th  and  30th 
August.  At  Decize,  the  party  arrived  too  late  to  enter  the 
city  so  "  lodged  without  the  walls •\"  Between  Decize  and 
La  Charite  they  passed  Nevers,  "  a  faire  and  stronge  Cittie 
with  a  stone  bridged"  Mundy  was  struck  by  the  "  great 
store  of  protestants  and  whole  Townes  of  them  "  on  the 
Loire^  and  he  especially  remarked  the  Huguenot  strong- 
hold   at    Sancerre,    which    he    saw    in    the    distance    after 

1  Seep.  118.  ^  Seep.  119.  ^  See  pp.  120  and  122. 

*  See  p.  123.  ^  See  p.  120.  "^  See  p.  122. 


INTRODUCTION  xlvil 

passing  La  Charite^  On  the  Loire,  too,  were  "att  least 
one  hundred  and  fifty  floatinge  Mills'-." 

On  the  31st  August,  after  passing  several  villages, 
the  boats  reached  Gien,  "  a  stronge  Towne.  Here  wee 
lodged  att  a  Protestants  howse^"  The  party  arrived  at 
Orleans  late  on  the  ist  September,  1620,  and,  as  the 
journey  was  continued  early  on  the  following  morning 
Mundy  had  no  time  to  see  "perticulers  worth  notice  in  this 
famous  placeV'  except  the  "  very  faire  stone  bridge  with 
shopps  and  buildings  on  itl" 

The  distance  between  Orleans  and  Paris  was  covered 
by  coach.  Soon  after  they  set  out,  the  travellers  came 
upon  the  bodies  of  "  two  men  executed,  one  hanged  on  a 
Tree,  and  the  other  layd  on  a  wheeled"  The  road  led 
through  Artenay  and  thence  to  Toury,  the  route  now 
followed  by  the  railway.  Mundy,  however,  drove  along 
"a  Cawsye  "  through  "  plaine  and  level  P  "  country.  On 
the  3rd  September,  the  coaches  passed  through  Angerville, 
Etampes  and  Arpajon,  the  latter  part  of  the  way  "a  little 
Hillie,  though  pleasant,  fruitefull,  and  full  of  TownesV 
From  the  "  three  Black  moores  "  at  Arpajon,  the  cavalcade 
went  direct  to  Paris,  by  Longjumeau  and  Bourg-la-Reine, 
■"  all  the  way  wonderfully  peopled  and  Inhabited"*."  Just 
outside  the  city  were  the  remains  of  four  poor  wretches 
who  had  been  broken  on  the  wheel. 

In  Paris,  Pindar's  party  lodged  at  the  Iron  Cross  in  the 
Rue  St  Martin.  Mundy  made  good  use  of  the  two  days 
he  spent  in  the  French  capitals  With  Messrs  Davis  and 
Wilson  he  visited  the  Louvre,  Notre  Dame,  the  unfinished 
Luxembourg  palace,  the  Exchange,  and  St  Innocents' 
Church.  The  bridges  over  the  Seine,  especially  the  Pont 
Neuf,  with  its  clock  and  statues  of  Jean  d'Arc  and  Henri 
IV.,  excited  his  admiration.  In  the  Louvre  he  noted  the 
most  important  sculptures  and  paintings,  especially  the 
portrait  of  Marie  de    Medici  by  Pourbus.     The   "  Store- 

^  See  p.  121.  2  See  p.  122.  ^  See  p.  123. 

*  See  p.  124.  ^  See  pp.  124 — 130. 


xlviii  INTRODUCTION 

howses  full  of  Deadmens  bones^"  in  St  Innocents'  church- 
yard astonished  him.  Of  the  Bourse  he  thought  but  little^ 
but  was  highly  pleased  with  "  the  prospect  of  the  whole 
Cittie-"  which  he  beheld  from  one  of  the  towers  of  Notre 
Dame. 

On  the  6th  September,  1620,  the  travellers  again  set 
out,  having  hired  fresh  coaches  from  Paris  to  Calais.  Two 
of  their  number  were  left  behind,  "  Signor  Dominico  with  a 
feavour  and  Vincentio  to  attend  him  I"  Passing  through 
St  Denis,  Pierrefitte,  St  Price,  Moisselles,  and  Beaumont, 
"  a  faire  Towne^"  the  party  reached  Pisieux  in  the  evening. 
Next  day  they  dined  at  Beauvais  and  slept  at  Le  Hamel, 
"  a  poore  Towne  where  wee  had  as  poore  entertainement^" 
Thence  they  went  on  through  Poix  to  Pont  Remy,  "a 
walled  Towne,  and  lay  att  the  Crowned"  On  the  9th 
September,  they  breakfasted  at  Abbeville,  dined  at  Bernay, 
"a  poore  TowneV'  and,  passing  through  Montreuil  and 
Neufchatel,  reached  Boulogne  on  the  loth  September, 
1620.  Here  Mundy's  eyes  were  gladdened  by  the  sight  of 
the  English  Channel,  "  haveing  seene  noe  Sea  att  all  since 
our  departure  from  Venice'."  At  Boulogne  the  party 
lodged  "  att  the  Grayhound  in  the  lower  Tovvnel"  Thence 
they  followed  the  coast,  "and  in  sight  of  England'',"  to 
Marquise  and  Calais.  The  large  settlement  outside  the 
walls  of  this  "stronge  Towne*'"  attracted  Mundy's  attention. 
At  the  gates  the  travellers  were  disarmed  and  were  warned 
not  to  approach  the  walls  or  bulwarks.  Within  the  fortifi- 
cations, Mundy  noted  the  church  built  by  the  English  and 
a  "faire  Markett  place**." 

At  Calais  the  coaches  were  dismissed  and  a  "  Catche 
hired... to  carry  us  to  Dover"."  Preparations  were  made  to 
cross  to  England  on  the  12th  September,  but  "the  Wynde 
overbloweing "  the  boat  "  durst  not  adventure  over  the 
Barr'."      The    next    day   the    weather    improved    and    the 


1  See  p.  129.  -  See  p.  130.  ^  See  pp.  42,  43  and  130. 

^  Seep.  131.  *  Seep.  132.  ^  Seep.  133. 

'  See  p.  134. 


INTRODUCTION  xlix 

passage  was  made  in  three  hours  and  a  half.  The  "Catche" 
was  anchored  off  Dover  and  the  passengers  were  landed  in 
small  boats,  while  "the  Stuffe  went  about  into  the  Haven^" 
That  night,  the  13th  September,  1620,  the  first  that  Mundy 
had  spent  on  English  soil  since  January,  1618,  he  slept  at 
the  "  Grayhound."  Meanwhile,  Pindar  was  welcomed  home 
by  his  brother  Ralph  and  his  kinsman,  Mr  Spike.  At 
Dover,  Mr  Lane,  who  seems  to  have  been  Pindar's  purveyor 
and  paymaster,  hired  "a  great  Waggon^"  to  convey  the 
baggage  to  Gravesend,  and  sent  it  off  in  charge  of  seven 
servants.  The  remainder  of  the  party  left  Dover  on  the 
14th  September  and  reached  the  Chequer's  Inn  at  Canter- 
bury the  same  evening.  Mundy  found  the  "  Cathedrall 
Church "  with  its  "  multitude  of  windowes  of  coloured 
glasse"  very  "goodly  to  behold  I"  The  city,  too,  he 
describes  as  having  "  faire  streets  and  Shopps  well  fur- 
nished^." 

On  the  15th  September,  the  party  proceeded,  via 
Sittingbourne  and  Rochester,  to  Gravesend,  where  Pindar, 
who  had  been  "deteyned  and  entertained^"  by  the  Arch- 
bishop of  Canterbury,  overtook  them.  Thence,  they  went 
up  the  Thames  in  two  gigs.  At  Blackwall,  five  coaches 
were  in  readiness  to  convey  the  travellers  to  Pindar's  house 
at  Islington,  where  Mundy  slept  on  the  i6th  and  17th 
September.  On  the  i8th,  he  took  leave  of  the  ex-ambas- 
sador, "  humbly  thancking  him  for  divers  favours  received 
of  him^" 

Whether  Mundy  had  any  intercourse  with  Pindar  during 
his  sojourn  at  Constantinople,  or  whether  he  only  obtained 
permission  to  travel  in  Pindar's  suite  through  the  influence 
of  Lawrence  Greene,  is  uncertain.  It  is  clear,  however, 
that  his  relations  with  the  ambassador  must  have  been 
sufficiently  intimate  for  Pindar  to  form  an  estimate  of 
his  ability  and  for  Mundy  to  have  cause  to  regard  his 
patron  with  affection  as  well  as  gratitude.  To  Pindar  was 
entrusted,   fourteen   years   later,   the    account    of   Mundy's 

^  See  p.  134.  2  See  p.  135.  ^  See  p.  136. 

M.  ■  d 


1  INTRODUCTION 

early  voyages,  and  it  was  also  Sir  Paul  Pindar  who 
"  seriously  recommended  "  him  and  his  affairs  to  the  favour 
of  the  East  India  Company  in  1634.  Mundy  himself  tells 
us  nothing  of  his  connection  with  his  patron  in  the  years 
following  the  journey  from  Constantinople.  It  is,  howeven 
likely  that,  when  in  London,  he  paid  his  respects  at  Pindar's 
mansion  in  Bishopsgate  Street  Without. 

With  his  usual  and  justifiable  pride  in  the  extent  of  his 
journeys,  Mundy  states,  at  the  end  of  Relation  II.,  that  the 
distance  from  London  to  Constantinople  amounts  "  by  my 
Computation^"  to  1838  miles.  His  rate  of  travelling  was, 
therefore,  22^^  miles  per  day,  exclusive  of  the  time  spent  in 
Belgrade,  Spalato,  Venice,  etc. 

Of  the  seven  years  following  the  "Journey  Overland 
from  Constantinople  to  London  "  Mundy  has  but  a  scanty 
record.  He  tells  us  that  his  Third  Relation  is,  like  the  First, 
"recollected  by  memorie-."  In  March,  1621,  he  revisited  his 
native  town  and,  in  the  summer  of  that  year,  he  went  to 
Seville  with  a  cargo  of  pilchards  on  behalf  of  his  father, 
his  uncle  and  Mr  Richard  Wyche.  In  1622,  he  was  back 
in  England,  for  he  tells  us  that,  in  April,  he  "  covenanted  " 
to  serve  Richard  Wyche  for  "  five  yeares  on  certaine  Con- 
ditions V  one  of  which,  as  we  learn  later,  was  that  of  keeping 
accounts.  His  salary,  i^20  per  annum,  was  exclusive  of 
board  and  lodging.  Mundy  is  silent  as  to  his  employment 
during  the  first  three  years  of  his  contract,  and  we  have  no 
hint  as  to  whether  he  spent  the  time  in  England  or  abroad. 
At  the  beginning  of  the  fourth  year  of  his  service,  he  was 
sent  by  a  syndicate  of  copper-contractors  (of  whom  Richard 
Wyche  was  one)  to  Spain,  in  connection  with  their  busi- 
ness. He  and  "one  Henry  Davis"*"  crossed  from  Dover  to 
"  Deepe "  and,  travelling  "  post,"  arrived  at  Irun  a  week 
later.  They  travelled  by  short  stages,  changing  horses  as 
many  as  twenty  times  a  day,  "  a  very  painfull  imployment 
to  one  not  accoustomed"*."  From  Irun,  Mundy  and  Davis 
went  to  St  Sebastian  and  thence  to  Vittoria.    Here,  George 

^  Seep.  136.        2  Seep.  145.  ^  Seep.  137.  *  Seep.  138. 


INTRODUCTION  H 

Wyche,  one  of  Richard's  younger  brothers,  was  "  Prisoner 
about  the  Contracte  aforesaid^"  How  or  why  the  luckless 
George  was  imprisoned  does  not  appear,  nor  has  a  search 
among  contemporary  records  produced  any  independent 
mention  of  this  Copper  Contract.  Mundy  went  on  to 
Valladolid,  where  a  suit  in  connection  with  his  employers' 
business  was  "dependinge  in  the  Chauncery,"  but  he  says 
nothing  with  regard  to  the  result  of  his  investigations. 
From  other  sources,  we  learn  that  George  Wyche  was  still 
a  prisoner  three  years  later.  If  Mundy's  own  immediate 
relatives  were  interested  in  these  proceedings,  the  fall  in 
the  fortunes  of  his  family,  alluded  to  by  him  in  1638  and 
1655,  may  have  dated  from  this  unfortunate  venture. 

Mundy  has  a  description  of  Valladolid,  "  one  of  the 
delightsomest  seats  in  the  Kingdome  of  Spaine^ "  with 
"  the  fairest  Place  or  Placa  that  I  have  yett  seene-."  He 
also  notes  the  tomb  of  the  Cardinal  Duke  of  Lerma,  who 
was  buried  there  just  before  his  arrival.  During  the  four 
months  that  he  remained  in  Valladolid,  Mundy  witnessed 
bull-baiting  and  other  public  sports,  but,  though  he  is 
discursive  as  to  places  and  things  of  interest  in  Spain,  he  is 
curiously  reticent  about  the  business  which  had  brought 
him  into  the  country.  After  nearly  half  a  year's  absence, 
he  returned  to  England. 

Between  Vittoria  and  St  Sebastian,  Mundy  crossed  the 
Puerto  de  St  Adrian,  and  he  describes  minutely  the  Saint's 
grotto,  which  he  saw  "  by  the  light  of  Candells^"  but  he 
does  not  tell  us  if  he  made  any  stay  in  Vittoria  or  paid 
any  further  visit  to  the  imprisoned  George  Wyche.  At 
St  Sebastian,  Mundy  took  his  passage  for  England  in 
the  Margett,  commanded  by  Captain  Molton.  On  his 
return  he  found  his  master  "  dangerously  sick  of  the 
Dropsie." 

Mundy's  next  journey  was  to  Colchester  "  about  some 
occasions'*."  Shortly  after  he  came  back  to  London,  his 
"Master  left  this  life'*"  and  Peter  Mundy  was  once  more 

1  See  p.  139.  ^  See  p.  140.  ^  See  p.  142.  *  See  p.  143. 

d  2 


Hi  INTRODUCTION 

thrown  on  his  own  resources.  Having  nothing  to  detain 
him  in  the  capital,  he  "  went  downe "  to  his  "  freinds  in 
Cornewall  by  Land\"  He  "remained  a  while  att  Home," 
and  next  "made  a  voyage"  to  St  Malo  and  Jersey,  but 
whether  on  business  or  for  his  own  pleasure  is  uncertain. 
It  is  not  improbable,  however,  that  he  was  sent  to  Brittany 
by  his  relatives  in  connection  with  the  pilchard  business. 
At  St  Malo,  he  admired  the  harbour,  and  the  "  very  great 
Strength  and  traffique'"  of  the  place.  He  was  also  im- 
pressed by  the  fierce  watch-dogs  that  guarded  the  town  at 
night.  Thence,  he  went  to  Jersey  and  again  "  returned  to 
St.  Maloes  and  soe  horned" 

Mundy's  active  nature  would  not  allow  him  to  settle 
down  to  a  quiet  life.  He  pined  for  regular  occupation  and 
was  also  anxious  to  "see  forraigne  Countries-."  In  October, 
1627,  he  addressed  a  petition  to  the  Directors  of  the  East 
India  Company,  praying  for  employment  in  India  as  a 
factor,  and  "  to  proceed  thither  on  their  next  shippsl" 
Unfortunately,  the  petition  itself  does  not  exist,  but  the 
substance  of  it  is  given  in  the  Proceedings  of  the  Court  of 
Directors*  on  the  31st  October,  1627,  as  follows: — "Peter 
Mundy  late  servant  to  Mr  Richard  Wich  having  kept  his 
masters  books  petitioned  for  imployment  as  a  Factor,  and 
shewed  by  his  petition  that  hee  lived  three  yeares  at 
Constantinople,  and  hath  in  some  good  measure  gayned 
the  French,  Spanish  and  Italian  tongues,  besides  hee  was 
well  commended  to  bee  of  Civill  conversation.  The  Court 
called  him  in  and  demaunded  what  allowance  hee  had 
from  his  Master.  Hee  answeared  20  li.  per  annum.  They 
therefore  resolved  of  his  intertaynement  for  five  yeare,  and 
to  allowe  him  20  li.  per  annum,  which  hee  Conceived  to 
bee  too  small  sallary.  The  Court  left  it  to  his  Considera- 
tion and  election  to  accept  or  refuse  as  hee  shall  thinck 
meete." 

It  was   natural   that   Mundy  should   consider   his    five 

1  See  p.  143.  '^  See  p.  144. 

2  Court  Minutes.,  vol.  x.  p.  1 34. 


INTRODUCTION  Hii 

years'  experience  under  Richard  Wyche  as  of  some 
monetary  value,  and  that  he  would  be  loth  to  start  at 
the  same  salary  as  before.  Whether  his  own  arguments 
prevailed,  or  whether,  as  is  more  likely,  his  influential 
friends  put  in  a  word  in  his  favour,  it  is  clear  that  the 
Directors  were  induced  to  alter  their  decision  of  the  31st 
October,  1627.  On  the  22nd  February,  1628,  Mundy's 
entertainment  as  an  "  Under  Factor "  is  noted  in  the 
Minutes,  his  salary  being  £2^  per  annum^.  Moreover,  an 
advance  of  £^  was  made  to  him  for  "his  better  accomoda- 
tion and  setting  out  to  sea." 

The  Court  of  the  East  India  Company  at  this  time 
consisted,  among  others,  of  four  members,  the  Garraways 
and  the  Harbys,  who  had  direct  or  indirect  knowledge 
of  Mundy's  abilities.  The  two  Garways  (or  Garraways), 
Sir  Henry  and  his  brother  William,  were  both  also  con- 
nected with  the  Levant  Company  and  would  know  of 
Mundy's  relations  with  the  Wyche  family  and  of  his 
voyage  to  Constantinople  on  the  Royall  Merchant  in 
company  with  their  brother  James,  in  1617I  These  two 
Directors  probably  supported  Mundy's  petition,  but  the 
Harbys,  Job  and  Clement,  could  speak  from  personal 
experience  of  the  applicant's  character  and  capacity.  Job 
(afterwards  Sir  Job)  Harby  was  cousin  and  brother-in-law 
of  Mundy's  late  masters,  James  and  Richard  Wyche,  and 
was  one  of  the  executors  to  the  will  of  Richard  Wyche, 
senior^  The  fact  that,  while  in  India,  Mundy  specially 
requested  a  friend  to  convey  a  letter  home  to  Job  Harby 
seems  to  show  that,  in  some  degree,  he  owed  his  appoint- 
ment to  the  Harby  influence.  His  connection  with  the 
Wyche  family,  and,  through  them,  with  the  Harbys,  must 
have  lasted  for  many  years.  In  his  "Occurrences,  Passages, 
observations"  etc.  at  the  end  of  his  MS.,  Mundy  has  a 
paragraph  about  his  old  friends  and  also  a  reference  to 
William  Garraway*: — 

1  See  note  i  on  p.  145.  ^  See  p.  14.  ^  See  Appendix  B. 

*  This  extract  explains  Mundy's  remark  quoted  in  note  7  on  p.  156, 
also  pp.  162  and  165.  It  is  unfortunate  that  the  paragraph  was  not 
unearthed  in  time  to  add  to  Appendix  B. 


liv  INTRODUCTION 

"  1659  and  1660.  Mr.  NatJianiel  Wiche  dead  in  East 
India  and  Mr.  Wm.  Garraivay  in  Persia.  About  this 
tyme  newes  by  letters  from  India  overland  from  Surat 
to  Agra,  and  soe  to  Aleppo,  of  the  Death  of  Mr.  Nathaniell 
Wyche,  who  died  at  Surat  about  this  time  twelve  month. 
I  have  known  the  father  old  Mr.  Richard  Wyche,  nine  of 
his  sonnes  and  three  of  his  Daughters,  viz.  Richard,  Thomas, 
Peter,  George,  James,  Julius,  Edward  and  Nathaniel,  all 
dead,  the  last  within  eight  monthes  of  his  arrivall  in  India, 
being  President  at  Surat.  They  were  twelve  brethren, 
only  Henry  remaining,  and  six  sisters,  three  alive\  Allso 
the  Death  of  Mr  William  Garraway  Agent  in  Persia,  who 
went  from  England  about  the  same  tyme." 

Between  October,  1627,  when  he  applied  for  a  post 
under  the  East  India  Company,  and  February,  1628,  when 
his  appointment  was  confirmed,  Mundy  "went  downe  into 
the  Countrie  to  take  leave-"  of  his  friends  and  spent  the 
Christmas  of  1627  at  Penryn.  In  the  New  Year,  he  once 
more  journeyed  to  London  "  to  attend  my  honourable 
Imployers  will  and  pleasure-l" 

Following  his  usual  custom,  Mundy  gives  a  table  of 
distances  traversed  in  the  various  short  journeys  recounted 
in  Relation  III.  and  states  that  "theis  several!  Traverses... 
amounteth  in  all  to  the  some  of  Miles  6o8o^"  so  that, 
before  he  set  out  on  his  first  voyage  to  India,  at  the  age 
of  about  thirty,  he  had  covered,  according  to  his  own 
reckoning,  25,312  miles. 

With  his  voyage  to  India  in  the  Expedition,  another 
period  of  Mundy's  life  begins,  and  the  story  of  his  ex- 
periences in  the  East  will  be  told  at  length  in  volume  II. 
of  his  Travels. 

I  have  now  followed  Mundy's  career  up  to  the  end 
of  his  early  European  journeys,  and  it  will  be  of  interest 
to  remark  on  his  personality  as  shown  in  his  MS.  His 
prominent  characteristics  in  boyhood  and  early  manhood 
were  love  of  travel,  acute  observation,  and  an  insatiable 
appetite  for  information  of  all  kinds.     He  was  interested 

1  Stt  Appendix  B.  ^  Seep.  144.  ^  Seep.  145. 


INTRODUCTION  Iv 

in  everything  he  saw,  and  recounts  details  regarding  the 
habits,  clothes  and  customs  of  the  people  with  whom  he 
came  in  contact,  with  the  same  vigour  and  picturesqueness 
as  he  describes  the  scenery  of  the  countries  through  which 
he  travelled  and  the  architectural  features  that  attracted  his 
notice.  Thus,  he  pauses  in  his  story  of  the  journey  across 
Turkey  to  descant  on  "  Bathes,  Besistenes  and  Canes," 
all  of  them  strange  to  an  English  eye,  and  digresses  to 
explain  the  various  kinds  of  punishments  adopted  by  the 
Turks.  And  then,  to  "divert"  his  readers'  minds  from 
such  horrors,  he  passes  on  to  what  appears  to  be  the  only 
early  seventeenth  century  account  of  the  "  severall  sorts 
of  Swinging  used  in  their  Publique  rejoycings."  At 
Belgrade,  he  took  special  notice  of  the  "  Bulgarians " 
[Servians],  describing  their  appearance  and  clothes,  and 
remarking  on  their  food  and  marriage  customs.  At  Sara- 
jevo, too,  he  is  struck  with  the  muscular  strength  of  the 
inhabitants.  Later  on,  he  gives  us  details  of  a  lazaretto 
and  rules  as  to  quarantine,  comments  on  the  disease  of 
goitre,  and  so  forth. 

His  historical  facts  are,  for  the  most  part,  as  accurate 
as  his  geographical  descriptions.  He  tells  us  of  the  revo- 
lutions at  Constantinople  in  1617/8,  of  the  rise  and  downfall 
of  Caspar  Gratiani,  Voivode  of  Moldavia,  and  of  the  visit 
of  Biirun  Kasim,  the  Persian  ambassador  to  Constantinople 
in  161 8.  The  death  of  Cardinal  Boromeo,  the  siege  of 
Vercelli,  the  marriage  of  Victor-Amadeus  of  Savoy,  the 
exploits  of  Joan  of  Arc,  the  loss  of  Gascony  by  the  English, 
the  death  of  the  Duke  of  Medina  Sidonia  and  the  Cardinal 
Duke  of  Lerma,  the  murders  of  Henri  IV.  and  the  Marechal 
d'Ancre,  and  many  other  happenings  both  before  and  after 
his  journeys  are  all  remarked  upon  by  Mundy  with  more 
or  less  detail. 

There  are  very  few  allusions  to  personal  experiences  in 
this  volume,  and,  beyond  the  facts  that  he  contracted  an 
ague  in  the  journey  down  the  Loire,  escaped  a  trick  with 
a  copper  chain,  and  found  posting  across  France  a  "very 
painefuU   employment,"  Mundy  tells   us   little   of   himself. 


Ivi  INTRODUCTION 

His  library,  as  far  as  can  be  gathered  from  his  MS.,  was 
a  considerable  one  for  a  man  of  no  fixed  abode.  At  the 
time  he  wrote  his  earlier  Relations,  he  had  probably  had 
but  little  leisure  for  reading,  but,  by  1650  and  1655  when 
he  revised  the  earlier  accounts  of  his  travels,  he  had  ac- 
quired a  thorough  knowledge  of  Ralegh,  Knolles,  Holyoke, 
Blount,  Purchas,  Gainsford,  Grimston  and  Sandys,  whose 
works  he  would  seem  to  have  possessed  as  he  quotes  largel}^ 
from  some  of  them. 

Living  at  a  time  of  strong  religious  feeling  in  England, 
and  probably  brought  up  by  his  uncle,  the  Rev.  John 
Jackson  of  North  Petherwin,  on  the  borderland  between 
Cornwall  and  Devonshire,  Mundy  frequently  exhibits  a 
deeply  religious  habit  of  thought,  and  expresses  it  after 
the  fashion  of  his  day.  At  the  end  of  almost  every  story 
of  his  voyages  and  journeys,  he  records  his  thankfulness  to 
the  Almighty  for  preservation  from  dangers  and  a  safe 
home-coming;  and  on  his  return  to  England  in  1647, 
he  calculates  that,  in  the  thirty-six  years  from  1611,  he 
has  travelled  upwards  of  100,833  miles,  and  remarks  that 
he  has  been  "  preserved  from  2000  Dangers."  At  the  same 
time,  Mundy  abundantly  shows  himself  by  his  observations 
to  have  been  a  man  of  remarkably  broad  views,  and,  though 
apparently  a  Royalist  and  an  Anglican,  he  has  no  gibes 
against  Puritanism,  nor,  indeed,  does  he  ever  indulge  in 
any  bitter  references  to  creeds  other  than  his  own. 

Mundy's  energy,  perseverance  and  capacity  for  work 
were  enormous.  Idleness  seems  to  have  been  abhorrent 
to  him,  nor  does  he  appear  to  have  had  any  expensive 
tastes  or  any  great  love  of  pleasure  and  amusement.  It 
troubled  him  to  remain  at  home  "  waisting  of  meanes." 
His  chief  delight  was  to  follow  his  "habitual  Disposition 
of  travelling,"  and  certainly  he  must  have  gratified  his 
taste  almost  to  the  full;  the  one  bitter  drop  in  his  cup 
being  his  inability  to  carry  out  his  desire  of  circumnavi- 
gating the  globe.  In  disposition,  Mundy  comes  before  us 
genial  and  tender-hearted,  a  lover  of  his  fellow-men  and  a 
partisan  of  the  oppressed.     He  has  many  mentions  of  his 


INTRODUCTION  Ivil 

*'  friends,"  even  in  these  early  voyages,  and  his  champion- 
ship of  the  weak  is  shown  by  the  warmth  with  which  he 
speaks  of  the  oppressions  endured  by  the  Christians  at  the 
hands  of  the  Turks. 

The  great  charm,  however,  of  this  original  man  is  his 
transparent  naturalness.  In  his  writings,  there  is  no  self- 
consciousness,  no  striving  after  effect.  He  tells  his  story 
throughout  with  unaffected  candour,  avoiding  alike  the 
verbosity  of  Coryat  and  the  stilted  style  of  Gainsford. 
The  later  volumes  will  reveal  him  as  a  man  worthy  both  of 
respect  and  admiration. 

The  Mundy  MSS. 

Only  one  complete  copy  of  Mundy's  work  is  known  to 
exist,  viz.  the  MS.  volume  now  in  the  Bodleian  Library, 
Oxford,  catalogued  as  Raivlinson  MS.  A.  315.  From  this 
volume  the  present  transcript  has  been  taken. 

Mundy  would  seem  to  have  made  no  notes  of  his  early 
voyages  before  the  year  1620.  In  that  year  he  kept  a 
diary  of  his  journey  from  Constantinople  to  London. 
From  162 1  to  1627  he  again  kept  no  regular  chronicle 
of  his  journeys.  In  1628,  however,  while  on  his  first 
voyage  to  India  in  the  Expedition,  and  in  1634,  on  the 
return  voyage  to  England  in  the  Royall  Mary,  he  occupied 
his  enforced  idleness  on  board  ship  in  writing  from  memory 
the  story  of  his  early  years,  in  putting  into  shape  his  diary 
of  the  events  in  1620,  and  in  amplifying  his  notes  on  all 
that  had  happened  during  the  six  years  he  had  spent  in 
India.  These  various  stories  he  split  up  into  nineteen 
Relations^,  of  which  three  only  deal  with  his  early  European 
travels. 

On  Mundy's  return  to  England,  he  had  a  copy  made 
of  his  book  and  gave  it  into  the  care  of  Sir  Paul  Pindar. 
The  original  he  carried  with  him  to  Cornwall,  where  it  was 
doubtless  received  with  wonder  and  delight  by  his  friends 
at  Penryn.     In  the  following  year,  when   Mundy  went  to 

1  See  pp.  7,  8. 


Iviii  INTRODUCTION 

London  to  make  arrangements  for  his  voyage  to  China,  he 
left  his  MS.  with  his  father,  "  who  promised  to  send  itt 
after  mee,  Butt  lending  itt  to  one  or  other,  itt  came  not  to 
hand,  Soe  went  to  Sea  without  itt\"  No  trace  of  this  first 
MS.  has  been  discovered  and  Mundy  evidently  considered 
it  irretrievably  lost.  The  copy  left  with  Sir  Paul  Pindar 
happily  escaped  a  similar  fate  and  is  now  among  the 
Harleian  MSS.  at  the  British  Museum. 

During  the  voyage  to  China,  Mundy  kept  a  journal 
"  in  the  Nature  off  the  former^"  and  on  his  return  to 
England,  finding  his  original  MS.  "not  to  bee  procured" 
he  had  Pindar's  copy  "  coppied  outt  againe  into  this  booke, 
adding  and  Joyning  thereto- "  the  narrative  of  the  events 
of  the  succeeding  years.  Thus  much  Mundy  tells  us  in  his 
Preface,  which  appears  to  have  been  written  in  1639  or 
quite  early  in  1640.  The  re-copying  oi  Relations  I.  to  XIX. 
was  probably  done  under  Mundy's  own  eye  as  there  are 
additions  in  the  Razvl.  MS.,  not  found  in  the  Harl.  MS., 
such  as  the  accounts  of  staking,  gaunching,  etc.  which  he 
may  have  dictated  to  the  copyist  as  the  work  was  proceed- 
ing. The  Hai'l.  MS.,  too,  bears  traces  of  careful  revision 
by  Mundy.  There  are  corrections  in  his  waiting,  but  no 
great  additions  such  as  those  in  the  Rawl.  MS.  The 
corrections  were  most  likely  made  either  in  1634,  from  the 
original  MS.,  or  in  1639  when  the  second  copy,  Rawl.  MS. 
A.  315,  was  begun. 

In  1640,  when  Mundy  set  out  on  his  trading  voyage  to 
Holland,  Prussia,  etc.,  it  is  most  probable  that  he  took  his 
MS.  with  him  and  continued  the  narrative  of  his  travels  in 
his  spare  time,  unless  indeed  he  only  kept  rough  notes, 
which  he  amplified  after  his  return  to  England  in  1647. 
At  any  rate,  we  know  that,  while  at  Penryn,  early  in  1650, 
he  revised  the  whole  of  his  MS.,  adding  to  his  title  the 
names  of  the  European  countries  visited  after  1639,  ^"^^ 
inserting,  besides  many  scattered  notes,  the  Supplement  to 
Relation  I.^     At  Penryn,  too,  in  the  same  year,  he  wrote 

^  See  p.  2.  2  See  p.  2  f.  ^  See  pp.  24 — 40. 


INTRODUCTION  lix 

his  first  Appendix  which  contains  notes  on  the  following 
subjects  : — "  The  Courten  Voyage  ;  The  Paradox  of  the 
Earth's  Motion  ;  The  Changes  in  Ringing  of  Bells  ;  The 
County  of  Cornewall  and  Towne  of  Penrin  ;  Occurrences 
at  Penrin  in  1649." 

Four  years  later,  when  in  London,  Mundy  was  again 
bent  on  revising  his  MS.,  for,  as  will  have  been  already 
seen\  he  wrote,  on  the  i6th  December,  1654,  "My  intention 
is,  if  God  spare  mee  life  and  leisure,  to  Copy  outt  this  booke 
over  againe,  as  well  to  rectifie  whatt  is  amisse  according  to 
my  abilitie,  as  allsoe  to  insert  many  things  omitted  by 
mee."  This  intention  of  re-copying  his  book  seems  never 
to  have  been  carried  out,  for,  owing  to  family  misfortunes, 
Mundy  was  compelled,  in  1655,  to  seek  fresh  employment, 
and,  in  March  of  that  year,  he  made  his  third  voyage  to 
India.  This  time  we  are  certain  that  he  had  his  MS.  with 
him,  for  the  addition  to  his  description  of  the  amphitheatre 
at  Verona,  copied  from  Sandys'  Travels,  is  in  his  own 
writing  and  is  dated  '' Alleppo  Merchant"  (the  ship  in  which 
he  sailed  to  India),  '^August  2d,  anno  165 5 1"  During  his 
voyage  to  and  from  India,  Mundy  probably  once  again 
revised  his  MS.  and  continued  his  life-story  up  to  date. 

After  his  return  to  England,  he  began  his  last  Appendix 
of  "  some  Occurrences,  Passages,  etts.  since  my  last  coming 
home."  From  1658  to  1663  he  wrote  in  London,  and  from 
1663  to  1667  in  Penryn.  He  prefaces  this  last  portion  of 
his  MS.  with  the  remark,  "  Having  leisure  and  spare  paper 
I  thought  it  nott  amisse  to  set  downe  some  accidents  that 
have  hapned  since  my  last  arrivall  from  India  to  this 
Citty  which  I  have  either  seen  or  hearde  of"  The  second 
Appendix  bears  no  evidence  of  revision  and  the  writing, 
though  still  excellent,  shows  traces  of  age.  The  MS. 
concludes  with  a  copy  of  the  Royal  Proclamation  after  the 
Treaty  of  Breda,  which  "  was  read  in  our  town  in  Penrin 
the  eleventh  of  September  Anno  1667." 

The   MS.,  a   thick   folio   volume,    has   no    title   on   the 

^  See  p.  xviii.  ^  Seep.  102 f. 


Ix  INTRODUCTION 

cover,  is  bound  in  white  vellum,  and  contains,  inclusive  of 
the  Preface  and  some  leaves  inserted  and  not  numbered, 
510  foolscap  pages.  The  part  done  by  the  copyist,  fols. 
I  —  III,  is  in  a  beautiful  seventeenth  century  clerkly  hand, 
while  Peter  Mundy's  own  writing  is  of  an  earlier  style, 
more  difficult  to  decipher,  but  regular  and  well  formed.  Of 
the  247  fols.  as  numbered  by  Mundy,  150  deal  with  India 
and  the  East.  The  MS.,  which  is  in  excellent  preserva- 
tion, contains  117  illustrations,  all  apparently  executed 
by  the  author  in  and  after  the  year  1639.  I^  has  besides 
six  engravings  and  six  double-page  maps  by  Hondius. 
On  these  Mundy  has  marked  his  routes  with  red  dotted 
lines.  All  the  maps,  except  that  of  the  World,  indicate 
the  journeys  described  in  Relations  I.  to  III.  Though 
Mundy  apologises  for  his  illustrations,  and  says  that  he 
has  "  no  skill  in  portraicture\"  most  of  the  spirited  pen- 
and-ink  drawings  which  adorn  his  work  are  quite  worthy 
of  their  place  therein.  Those,  however,  which  are  repro- 
duced in  the  present  volume  are  not  among  his  best,  and 
hardly  give  a  fair  idea  of  his  skill  as  a  draughtsman. 
Many  of  the  pictures,  as  the  author  tells  us,  were  not 
"taken  att  Sight. ..butt  long  after,  by  apprehension  off 
such  things  seene,"  and  were  drawn  on  loose  papers  which 
could  be  replaced  if  he  should  "  perchaunce  cause  them  to 
bee  better  Don^" 

Harl.  MS.  2286,  which  has  been  carefully  collated 
with  Raii'l.  MS.  A.  315,  as  far  as  was  necessary  for  the 
present  volume,  was,  as  previously  stated,  copied  from  the 
original  in  1634  and  left  with  Sir  Paul  Pindar.  It  contains 
no  illustrations,  is  in  an  excellent  clerk's  hand  and  in  good 
preservation.  It  has  been  in  the  custody  of  the  British 
Museum  since  1759  and  was  catalogued  by  Humfrey 
Wanley  for  the  Earl  of  Oxford  some  time  before  1726. 
Wanley's  remarks  are  worth  quoting : — Harl.  MS.  2286. 
"  A  Book  in  folio,  not  negligently  written,  rather  seeming 
to  be  prepared  for  the  press  ;   which  at  the  beginning  is 

^  See  p.  4. 


INTRODUCTION  Ixi 

thus  entitled,  '  A  breife  Relation  of  certaine  Journies  and 
Voyages  into  France,  Spain,  Turkey  and  East  India ; 
passed  and  performed  by  Peter  Mundy.'  The  Author  or 
Traveller,  who  was  of  Penem^  in  Cornwall,  first  went  into 
France  A.D.  1609,  and  the  next  year'-,  served  in  a  Merchants 
Ship  as  a  Cabbin-boy ;  from  which  Station,  by  degrees, 
he  became  employed  in  considerable  business.  He  dis- 
covers a  good  Capacity  joyn'd  with  Veracity  ;  and  divides 
his  Narration  into  several  Chapters,  the  Contents  of  which 
do  follow  the  Title  ;  of  which  I  shall  give  the  following 
Abstract,  because  I  remember  not  that  I  have  seen  the 
Work  itself  in  print."  Here  follows  a  Table  of  Contents 
of  Relations  I. — XIX.  slightly  enlarged  from  Mundy's 
"  First  Table."  Wanley  concludes  his  remarks  on  Mundy's 
work  thus :  "  Although  this  Book  be  but  a  Copy,  it  is 
nevertheless  corrected  by  the  Author's  hand." 

Besides  the  Raivl.  and  Harl.  MSS.  there  are  some 
late  copies  of  portions  of  Mundy's  work.  The  India 
Office  copy,  which  consists  of  Relations  IV.  to  XXX.  or 
the  account  of  Mundy's  first  and  second  voyages  to  India, 
in  1628  and  1635  respectively,  was  apparently  made  from 
the  Rawl.  MS.,  for  it  contains  tracings  of  the  illustra- 
tions found  only  in  the  complete  work.  It  was  presented 
to  the  India  Office  on  the  5th  October,  18 14,  by  Thomas 
fisher^,  F.S.A.  This  copy  will  be  fully  dealt  with  in  the 
succeeding  volumes. 

Of  the  India  voyages  there  are,  too,  early  nineteenth 
century  copies  of  events  during  Mundy's  residence  in  India, 
1628 — 1634,  as  told  in  Relatiojis  V.,  VI.  and  VII.  There 
is  also  a  copy  of  part  of  his  voyage  to  China.  These 
fragments  were  acquired  by  the  British  Museum  in  1853 
and  are  catalogued  as  Add.  MSS.  19278 — 19281.  They 
also  will  be  fully  dealt  with  in  vols.  II.  and  III. 


^  i.e.,  Penryn. 

^  This  is  incorrect,  Mundy  went  to  France  in  1608,  and  began  life 
as  a  cabin-boy  in  161 1. 

■^  Fisher  was  born  in  1771  and  died  in  1836. 


Ixii  INTRODUCTION 

The  only  other  copy  known  to  me  of  a  part  of  Mundy's 
work  is  that  contained  in  Add.  MS.  33420,  a  volume  of 
Collections  for  the  History  of  Cornwall,  made  by  Thomas 
Tonkin  the  Cornish  historian  (1678 — 1742).  This  MS. 
was,  for  some  years,  in  the  possession  of  the  Ley  family 
of  Penzance,  and  was  purchased  by  the  authorities  of  the 
British  Museum  from  the  late  Colonel  H.  H.  Ley  in 
December,  1888.  Part  4  of  the  work  consists  of  extracts 
made  by  Tonkin  from  Mundy's  remarks  on  the  "  County 
of  Cornewall  and  Towne  of  Penrin,"  together  with  a  short 
note  on  the  author  and  an  abstract  of  the  contents  of  his 
complete  work.  The  portion  of  Tonkin's  extract  relating 
to  the  rising  in  Penzance  in  1648  was  reproduced  by 
J.  S.  Courtney  in  his  Guide  to  Penzance,  and  is  the  only 
piece  of  Mundy's  writing,  as  far  as  can  be  discovered,  that 
has  so  far  ever  been  printed.  Tonkin  is  responsible  for 
the  statement  that  Mundy  intended  to  publish  his  work. 
He  prefaces  his  extract  from  the  MS.  with  the  remark^ 
"  Peter  Mundy  being  bred  up  also  to  the  Sea  and  Mer- 
chandise from  his  Youth  and  of  A  Rambling  Genius  has 
Compiled  A  Large  thick  Folio  Book  Adorn'd  with  cuts, 
both  drawn  and  Printed. ...Which  Book  He  intended  for 
the  Press  had  not  Death  prevented  him."  Tonkin  may 
have  had  the  authority  of  the  Worths,  who  then  owned 
the  MS.,  for  Mundy's  intentions  as  to  its  ultimate  fate 
and  also  for  his  information  that  Richard  Mundy  was  the 
father  of  Peter.  The  author  himself,  however,  gives  no 
hint  that  he  contemplated  printing  the  account  of  his 
Travels.  He  tells  us,  in  his  Preface,  that  the  diaries  of 
his  early  voyages  were  only  "  cursary  "  and  superficial  and 
"  nott  soe  puntuall  as  I  oughtt  or  Mightt  have  Don,  never 
Making  accompt  to  make  Much  accompt  off  itt"-."  His 
aim,  when  he  first  began  his  work,  was  to  "keepe  my  owne 
remembraunce "  and  "to  pleasure  such  Freinds  Thatt  are 
Desirous  to  understand  somwhatt  off  Forraigne  Countries^." 
Later,  in  1639,  he  tells  us  that  he  intended  to  re-copy  and 

1  Add.  MS.  33420,  fol.  104  b.  -  See  p.  3. 


INTRODUCTION  Ixiii 

revise  the  whole  book,  but  eventually  he  appears  to  have 
abandoned  this  idea  and  only  to  have  added  fresh  matter 
in  his  declining  years. 

How  or  when  the  Mundy  MS.  passed  into  the  posses- 
sion of  the  Worths  is,  at  present,  not  known.  When 
Tonkin  examined  it,  it  was  the  property  of  Mrs  Dorothy 
Worth,  "  Relict  of  John  Worth  Junr.  of  Tremogh\"  Mabe, 
Cornwall.  An  examination  of  the  wills  of  the  Worth 
family  has  revealed  no  relationship  with  the  Mundys,  but, 
as  Mabe  is  only  two  miles  distant  from  Penryn,  it  is 
reasonable  to  suppose  that  the  Worths  were  known  to 
Peter  Mundy.  Indeed,  since  there  is  no  entry  of  his 
burial  in  the  Penryn  registers,  he  may  have  ended  his 
days  at  Mabe  and  bequeathed  his  life's  work  to  his  friends. 
As  Peter  Mundy  apparently  died  intestate,  his  last  wishes 
as  to  the  disposal  of  his  effects  must  perforce  rest  on 
conjecture. 

From  the  Worths,  the  Mundy  MS.  passed  into  the 
hands  of  Thomas  Rawlinson,  collector  and  bibliophile 
(i68i — 1725),  by  whom  it  was  probably  purchased. 
When  the  Rawlinson  MSS.  were  sold,  in  1734,  Mundy 's 
work  was  acquired  by  the  Bodleian  Library,  Oxford, 
and  there  it  has  lain,  practically  forgotten  for  nearly 
175  years. 

1  Add.  MS.  33420,  fol.  104  b. 


I  i  IKERARll^Sl 


m 


^ 


V" 


S 


•    uril,eWorlclf-Vo:n-1S6/i;^c..6-V   * 

Pfiisiia.Polojiia  • 
% 

!'•  rJicM'orlhsiJp  oflKc 


.,jj^<;i.j-jy-- 


3 


FACSIMILE    OF    THE    TITLE-PAGE    OF    RAWLINSON    MS.    A.    315 


i^Atithors  Title) 


ITINERARIUM^    MUNDII 

THAT   IS 
A 

MEMORIALL 

OR 

SUNDRY   RELATIONS   OF   CERTAINE  VOIAGES   JOURNEIES 

ETTC:    PASSED    AND    PERFORMED    INTO    SOME    PARTS 

OF   ENGLAND:    HOLLAND,    FRAUNCE,    SPAINE, 

ITALIE,   TURKY,    EAST   INDIA,   CHINA,   THE 

ILANDS  OF  ST.  LAURENCE,  SUMATRA  ETTC: 

TO   THE   SOUTH   AND   EAST   PARTS:   OF 

THE  WORLD  FROM  ANNO  1611  TO  1639 

ALSO2   UNTO   SOME   PARTS   OF   DENMARCK   PRUSSIA: 

POLONIA:   &   MOSCOVIA  OR   RUSSIE   TO   THE 

NORTH   SIDE   OF   THE   WORLD    FROM 

ANNO    1639   TO    1648: 


BY 

PETER:    MUNDY: 


^  Fol.  I  of  the  MS.,  which  precedes  the  title,  contains  a  double- 
page  map  of  the  World  by  Hondius,  dated  1630.  On  it  are  traced  in 
dotted  red  lines  the  routes  of  Mundy's  Travels,  with  red  ciphers  to 
indicate  the  track  of  his  intended  Voyages. 

^  The  second  portion  of  the  title  is  an  addition,  pi'obably  made 
when  the  author  revised  his  MS.  in  1650.  In  the  British  Museum 
copy,  Harl.  MS.,  2286,  the  title  is,  "  A  Breife  Relation  of  Certaine- 
Journies  and  Voyages  into  Fraunce,  Spaine,  Turkey  and  East  India,, 
passed  and  performed  by  Peter  Mundy." 

M.  I 


{Authors    Preface^ 

PREFACE'  BY  WAY  OF  ADVERTISEMENT  FOR 
AND  IN.  THE  READING  OF  THE  FOLLOWING 
RELATIONS. 

Those  voyages,  Journeies,  etts.  Thatt  befell  mee  From 
the  tyme  off  my  First  Departure  From  my  Parentts^  untill 
the  tyme  off  my  First  arrivall  from  East  India^  I  did  sett 
Downe  together  in  one  booked  This  Booke,  att  my 
comming  home,  I  carried  with  mee  in  to  the  Country^ 
(The  Coppy  thereof  beeing  First  taken  and  left  in  the 
Custody  off  the  Right  Honble.  Sir  Paul  Pindar  Knight"), 
and  att  my  comming  away  againe  lefft  itt  With  my  Father, 
who  promised  to  send  itt  after  mee.  Butt,  lending  itt  to 
one  or  other,  itt  came  not  to  hand  ;  Soe  Went  to  Sea 
Without  itt,  The  voyage  to  China,  etts.''  From  whence, 
beeing  returned^,  having  allsoe  kept  a  Journall  of  thatt 
voyage  in  the  Nature  off  the  Former",  and  the  Oreginall 
thereof  not  to  bee  procured,  I  have  caused  the  Coppy 
afforesaid   to   bee   coppied    outt    againe   into   this   booke, 


^  There  is  no  Preface  in  the  British  Museum  copy,  Harl.  MS.,  2286. 

^  In  1608.  ^  In  Sept.  1634. 

*  i.e.  Relations  I.,  II.,  and  III.,  which  are  reproduced  in  this 
volume.  ^  To  Penrhyn,  in  Cornwall. 

^  For  the  author's  connection  with  Sir  Paul  Pindar,  see  Intro- 
duction and  Relation  II. 

"^  In  1636.  s  In  December,  1638. 

9  This  "Journall"  is  embodied  in  Relations  XXL— XXX.  The 
author's  experiences  during  his  first  visit  to  India  are  described  in 
Relations  IV.— XIX. 


author's  preface  3 

adding  and  Joyning  thereto  this  last  voyage  and  occur- 
rences \  In  the  reading  whereof  lett  these  FoUowing 
advertisementts  bee  observed,  beeing  Devided  into  three 
generall  heads,  and  each  off  these  again  into  three  braunches 
as  Followeth: — 

First.     That  itt  consists  of  three  Manner  of  Writing,  viz., 

1.  The  Most  and  princopall  is  Journall  Wise: — To 
say  accidentts,  passages  off  every  Daies  Journey  by  land, 
and  each  Daies  sayling  by  Sea,  off  which  I  took  butt  a 
Cursary  and  superccall^  Notice  as  a  Passenger,  and.  To  say 
truth,  nott  soe  puntuall  as  I  oughtt  or  Mightt  have  Don, 
Never  Making  accomptt  to  make  Much  accomptt  off  itt. 
What  I  Did  Was  some  Whatt  aswell  to  keepe  my  owne 
remembraunce  on  occasion  off  Discourse  concerning  per- 
ticularities  off  thes  voyages.  As  allsoe  to  pleasure  such 
Freinds  (who  mightt  come  to  the  reading  thereof)  Thatt 
are  Desirous  to  understand  somwhatt  off  Forraigne  Coun- 
tries. 

2.  Sundry  passages  recollected  by  Memory,  as  From 
my  First  setting  Forth  untill  my  arrivall  att  Constantinople^, 
and  here  and  there  some  clause  or  other,  butt  Not  Many, 
off  Which  I  took  nott  presentt  Notice. 

3.  Here  are  in  Divers  places  inserted  the  reports 
and  Writings  off  others,  as  the  tables  off  lattitude"*,  longitude, 
etts.  throughoutt  this  book.  For  Which  I  was  beeholding 
unto  my  Freinds,  Seamen,  As  allsoe  Sundry  relationes  and 
reports  off  other  Men  according  as  the  tymes  and  places 
gave  some  occasion  to  speak  off^ 


1  This  remark  seems  to  refer  to  the  "  China  Voyage."  The 
author  apparently  wrote  his  Preface  before  making  the  voyages  and 
journeys  described  in  Relations  XXXI. — XXXVI. 

2  i.e.  superficial.  ^  In  161 7. 

*  The  first  of  these  "  Tables"  occurs  in  Relation  IV. 
5  e.g.  the   extracts   from    Blount,  Gainsford,    Sandys,   etc.  in   the 
author's  Supplement  to  Relation  I. 


4  author's  preface 

Secondly,  in   the  Designes  or  Figures^  there  is  to  bee 
considered  — 

1.  Thatt  they  Were  nott  taken  att  Sight  (Most  of 
them)  as  they  oughtt  to  have  bin,  butt  long  after,  by 
aprehension  off  such  things  seene. 

2.  Thatt  I  have  no  skill  in  portraicture,  only  I  have 
endeavoured  to  expresse  the  Most  Meteriall  off  the  things 
mentioned. 

3.  They  are  all  drawne  on  loose  papers,  slightly 
pasted  in,  Which  may  bee  easily  taken  out  againe,  because 
I  may  hereafifter  perchaunce  cause  them  to  bee  better  Don 
and  inserted  in  the  void  spaces  lefft  off  purpose,  and  in  the 
places  off  the  other  papers  Now  there  Fastened-. 

Thirdly.  These  three  pointts  are  to  bee  observed  as 
Well  in  the  reading  off  this  Memoriall  as  off  all  others  off 
this  kind  : — 

I.  Thatt  India  Comprehends  (under  thatt  Name)  a 
large  extentt.  The  people  Soe  Farre  Differing  in  Religion, 
Customes,  habitts,  etts.,  as  they  are  Distantt  in  place.  And 
the  places  so  various  in  beasts,  Fowle,  Fruitts,  plantts,  etts. 
as  they  Differ  in  Scituation.  Therefifore,  to  bee  considered 
Whatt  partt  off  India  is  spoken  off  or  Meant,  For  India 
properly  (as  I  conceave)  is  butt  one  province,  Named 
Hindostan,  Wherein  (once  Dilly)  now  Agra  is  the  cheiffe 
seatt^,  and  From  Whence  I  conceave  the  Word  India  is 
Derived,  or  From  the  River  Indus^  Butt  Now  under  this 
Name  is  encluded  From  Persia  even  to  China  by  sea  and 


1  There  are  117  of  these  "designes  or  figures"  in  the  Raw- 
linson  MS. 

2  Some  of  the  illustrations  are  gummed  on  to  the  text  used,  and 
others  are  interleaved.     The  "  void  spaces  "  are  very  few. 

3  Mundy  was  in  India  from  1628  to  1634,  during  the  first  year  of 
Shah  Jahan's  reign,  and  before  he  had  removed  the  Court  from  Agra 
back  to  Delhi. 

*  The  latter  derivation  is  nearest  the  truth.  The  modern  English 
'India'  is  from  (Skr.)  Smdim,  through  Persian  Hi7idii.,  Greek  'IvSoi 
and  'ivdtKT],  and  Latin  India.    As  also  is  '  Indus '  through  Greek  'Iv86s. 


author's  preface  5 

by  land,  there  lying  Many  large  vast  kindomes  beetweene, 
allso  Inffinite  Number  off  Hands  small  and  greatt,  as 
Sumatra,  Java,  the  Mollucaes,  etts.  in  the  South  Sea\ 
with  others  Dispersed  in  those  Seas  either  to  the  North- 
ward or  South  Ward  off  the  lyne. 

2.  There  may  bee  enquiry  made  off  some  thatt  have 
bin  in  those  parts  and  yett  they  know  of  Noe  such  Matter. 
Itt  is  to  bee  understood  thatt  either  they  have  nott  seene 
se  [?  so]  not  heard,  or  else  have  nott  regarded.  For 
example,  a  straunger  May  live  in  England  Many  yeares 
and  perhapps  nott  know  Whither  there  are  any  Otters  or 
badgers  in  the  Countrie  or  noe,  because  hee  hath  nott  seene 
Nor  enquired  affter  such,  and  soe  consequently  off  some 
Customes,  as  pressing  to  Death-,  etts. 

3.  Lett  any  in  the  reading  off  Forraigne  relationes 
(especially  this)  bee  indulgentt  and  Deliberate  in  censuring, 
and  not  over  hasty  in  reproach.  I  doe  conffesse  the  Matter 
to  bee  Meane  and  the  phrase  and  Decorum  Suiteable,  yett 
full  off  variety  and  such  as  Most  part  thereoff  not  (as  I 
conceave)  to  bee  Found  in  other  Writings  ;  Allsoe,  thatt 
itt  is  the  Fruit  off  some  vacantt  houres  in  those  long 
voyages  by  sea  and  on  shoare,  and  the  best  end  and 
purpose  I  know  thereof  is  againe  to  serve  to  passe  away 
tyme  thatt  may  bee  spared,  Desiring  No  Farther  estimation 
thereof  thatt  [?  than]  thatt  it  may  bee  reckoned  among 
those  recreationes  Which  are  accompted  honest  and  laud- 
able (off  Which  sort  are  Musicke,  painting,  histories,  civill 


^  The  trading  places  in  the  southern  part  of  the  Indian  ocean, 
e.g.  the  Malay  peninsula,  Sumatra,  etc.,  were,  in  the  17th  century, 
commonly  known  as  the  "  South  Seas." 

^  An  allusion  to  the  punishment  known  as  the  peine  forte  et  dt/re, 
the  torture  formerly  applied  to  persons  arraigned  for  felony,  who 
refused  to  plead.  Their  prostrate  bodies  were  pressed  with  heavy 
weights  till  they  pleaded  or  died.  The  first  Parliament  of  Edward  I., 
1 275,  is  responsible  for  its  introduction.  The  custom  was  not  abolished 
till  1772,  although  it  had  been  a  'dead  letter'  for  many  years  pre- 
viously. 


6  author's  preface 

Discours,  etts.).  I  Doe  allsoe  conffesse  thatt  Many  things 
are  Misplaced,  as  some  First  that  should  bee  last,  and  soe 
to  the  Contrary ;  allsoe  some  things  therin  mought  bee 
better  lefftt  outt  and  others  omitted  Were  better  in  there 
place.  Thus  For  Matter  and  phrase.  All  this  allsoe  I 
could  Mend,  and  When  I  had  Don,  even  begin  againe, 
butt,  as  I  said,  the  phrase  is  sutable  to  the  Matter.  Yett, 
however,  lett  this  one  thing  breed  some  better  liking  off  itt, 
Thatt  I  have  endeavoured  to  com  as  Near  the  truth  off  the 
Matters  Discribed  as  possibly  I  could  attain  unto  by  my 
owne  experience  or  the  Most  probablest- Relation  off  others. 
I  have  inserted  sundry  Mappes  in  severall  places  of 
this  Booke^  in  which  you  may  observe  redd  pricked  lines. 
Those  Doe  shew  the  Countries  Wee  passed  through,  the 
places  Wee  came  unto,  and  the  Way  Wee  went.  Only 
Where  the  Way  is  traced  with  ciffres,  Oes,  or  nulles,  those 
voyages  and  Journies  Were  only  intended  and  not  per- 
formed for  certaine  reasons,  and  the  way  putt  Down  Which 
Wee  should  have  gon,  as  from  Macao  in  Chyna  to  the 
Manillas,  from  thence  through  the  South  Sea  unto  Aqua- 
pullco  on  the  back  side  of  America,  soe  overland  to  Mexico, 
St.  John  d'Ullooa  etts.,  Fol.  148^,  and  the  Mappe  of  the 
World  att  the  beginning  of  the  booke ;  see  there  Allsoe 
from  Arckangell  in  Russia  upp  the  River  Dweena  to 
Vologda,  thence  to  the  Citty  of  Mosco,  Smolensko,  Vilna 
etts.  and  soe  to  Dantzigke  in  Prussia.  See  Fol.  198^  and 
the  Mappe  of  Europe  att  the  beginning  of  the  booke  allso. 

1  The  maps  inserted  in  the  Rawlmson  MS.  are  seven  in  number, 
viz.  The  World,  Europe,  Turkey  and  Arabia,  Italy,  Savoy,  Gaul,  and 
Asia. 

2  A  spot  situated  on  the  east  coast  of  Mexico,  north  of  Vera  Cruz, 
formerly  well-known  to  mariners,  but  which  has  now  disappeared  from 
modern  maps.  There  is  no  mention  of  St  John  d'Ulloa  on  fol.  148  of 
the  MS.  In  the  paragraph  which  explains  why  Mundy  did  not  com- 
plete his  voyage  round  the  world,  he  says  he  intended  to  go  from 
'  Manilla  "  to  "  Aquapullco,"  and  thence  overland  to  "  Pueblo  de  los 
Angeles." 

^  i.e.  of  the  Rawlinson  MS. 


{Authors    Contents.) 
THE   FIRST   TABLE. 

OF   THE    CONTENTS    OF   THE   SEVERALL 
RELATIONES  IN  THIS  BOOKE  :  VIZ  : 

Relation  I.  Of  my  First  Departure  From  home  about  Anno  1608  : 
untill  my  arrivall  att  Constantinople  in  Anno  161 7  and  Departure 
thence  in  Anno  1620^ 

Relation  II.  A  Journey  overland  From  Constantinople  unto  London 
beegun  the  6th.  of  May  Anno  1620. 

Relation  III.  Other  voyages,  Journeies,  etts.  occurring  since  my 
arrivall  att  London  untill  the  tyme  of  my  entertaynementt  For 
East  India. 

Relation  IV.  Journall  of  a  voyage  made  in  the  good  Shipp  Expe- 
dition^ burthen  350  tonnes,  Thomas  Watts  Master,  in  company 
off  thejojiah,  burthen  800  tonnes,  both  bound  For  Suratt  in  East 
India  under  the  Commaund  of  Captaine  Richard  Swanley^. 

Relation  V.  Some  passages  att  Suratt  since  my  arrivall  there  in 
September  1628  untill  my  Departure  thence  For  Agra  in  November 
1630  With  a  Discription  of  Sundry  perticularities  in  and  about 
Suratt  aforesaid. 

Relation  VI.  A  Journey  offe  from  Suratt  in  Guzaratt  to  Agra  in 
Hindostan,  whither  Peter  Mundy  and  John  Yard  were  enordered 
and  sentt  by  the  WorshipfuU  Thomas  Rastell  President  etts. 
Councell  to  assist  Mr.  William  Fremlen,  there  residing,  in  the 
honourable  Companies  affaires. 

Relation  VII.  A  Journey  From  Agra  to  Cole  and  Shawgurre  beeing 
Dispeeded  by  Mr.  William  Fremlen  aboutt  the  Companies  affaires. 

Relation  VIII.  A  Journey  from  Agra  to  Puttana  on  the  borders  off" 
Bengala  with  eight  cartts  laden  With  Quicksilver  a  smalle  peece 


^  The  titles  of  the  Relations  vary  in  the  copies  at  the  British  Museum 
and  at  the  India  Office  from  those  here  given.  The  discrepancies  will  be 
noted  under  each  separate  Relation. 

^  The  copy  at  the  India  Office  begins  with  this  Relation. 


8  THE   FIRST   TABLE 

of  Vermillion  and  som  English  Cloath  For  accompt  off  the  Honour- 
able Company  to  bee  there  sold  and  returnes  made  As  allso  to 
see  the  estate  of  the  Country  and  Whatt  hopes  off  Benefifitt  by 
trading  into  those  partts. 

delation  IX.  Reasons  alleadged  by  Peter  Mundy  beefifore  his 
Departure  Agra  thatt  the  sending  him  for  Puttana  With  the 
Companies  goods  may  nott  only  proove  to  theer  losse  but  is 
playnely  against  the  Presidentts  and  Counsells  Meaning  and 
intentt. 

Eelation  X.  The  proceeding  and  Issue  of  the  Imploymentt  For 
Puttana. 

Relation  XL     Of  Puttana  and  off  AbduUa  Ckhaun  governour  thereofif. 

Relation  XII.     The  Returne  From  Puttana  to  Agra. 

Relation  XIII.  Discription  off  the  Greatt  MogoU  Shaw  Jehan  his 
comming  from  Brampore,  Where  hee  lay  Warring  against  Decan, 
unto  his  Gardein  called  Darree  ca  bag,  and  so  to  Agra. 

Relation  XIV.  The  greatt  MogoU  his  riding  to  Buckree  Eede  his 
Courtt,  Marriage  of  his  two  sonnes  Favourites  etts. 

Relation  XV.  Of  Agra :  Whatt  Notable  there  and  thereaboutts,  as 
the  Castle,  gardeins,  tombes,  Festivalls,  Customes,  etts. 

Relation  XVI.  A  Journey  from  Agra  to  Suratt  with  a  Caphila  con- 
sisting of  268  Cammells  and  109  Carts,  Whereon  Was  laden 
1493  Fardles  of  Indico  and  12  Fs.  off  Saltpeter  etts.  goodes, 
Dispeeded  by  Mr.  William  Fremlen  under  the  Conduct  off  Peter 
Mundy  with  a  Convoy  off  170  Peones  or  Souldiers. 

Relation  XVII.  Some  passages  and  troubles  More  perticulerly 
concerning  the  Caphila  afforementioned  occurring  in  the  Conductt 
theroff. 

Relation  XVIII.  Off  India  in  generall  and  off  the  Mareene  att 
Swally. 

Relation  XIX.  Journall  off  a  voyage  from  Suratt  to  England  on 
the  Shipp  Royall  Mary,  Commaunder  Captain  James  Slade, 
Wherin  Went  home  passengers  Mr.  John  Norris,  Cape  Merchant, 
Mr.  Henry  Glascock,  Mr.  Thomas  Willbraham,  and  my  selff 
Factors^. 

Relation  XX.  Some  observations  since  my  arrivall  home  From 
India  Anno  1634  untill  my  Departure  thither  againe  on  Sir 
William  Courteenes  shippes. 

Relation  XXI.  Journall  off  a  voyage  off  a  Fleet  consisting  off  four 
shippes  and  two  pinnaces  sett  Forth  by  the  right  Worshipfulle 
Sir  William  Courtene,  Knight  ;   the  Designe  For  India,  China, 


"  The  Table"  in  the  copy,  Harl.  MS..,  2286,  ends  here. 


THE   FIRST   TABLE  9 

Japan,  etts.  on   a    New    Discovery  ofif  trafifique   in    those   parts, 

Devided  in  to  Sundry  relationes  allsoe  Following  the  Number 

afforegoing,  and  First  From  England  to  Goa  in  East  India^ 
Eelation   XXII.      Our  Departure    Goa  and   arrivall   att   Battacala, 

Where  was  setled  a  Factory. 
Relation  XXIII.     Since  our  Departure  Battacala  in  East  India  untill 

our  arrivall  att  Achem  on  the  Hand  of  Sumatra  :  our  selling  off  a 

Factory  there  allsoe.  With  other  passages. 
Kelation    XXIV.      Our   Departure   from   Achem   on    Sumatra,   our 

toutching  att  Mallacca  and  arrivall  att   Macao  in  China,  With 

our  reception  there  by  the  Portuguees  etts.  passages. 
E,elation    XXV.      Our   Departure    From   Macao :    and   arrivall    att 

Fumahone,  Taytfoo,  etts.,  places  att  the  Mouth  off  Cantan  River 

With  ourDaungers  and  troubles  there  undergon  etts.  occurrences. 
Eelation  XXVI.     From  the  tyme  otf  our  Departure  Tayffoo  untill 

our  arrivall  att  Macao  againe  and  Whatt  trafifick  Wee  obteyned 

there  off  the  Portuguees  att  last ;  etts.  passages  in  the  Interm. 
Relation    XXVII.     Our    Departure    From    Macao    in    China,    our 

toutching  att  Mallacca  and  arrivall  att  Achem  on  the  Hand  off 

Sumatra. 
Eelation  XXVIII.     Since  our  Departure  from  Achem  on  the  Hand 

off  Sumatra  untill  our  arrivall  att  the  Hand  off  Mauritius  and' 

departure  thence  againe. 
Eelation  XXIX.     From  the  Hand  off  Mauritius  unto  the  Hand  ofif 

Madagascar  or  Saint  Lawrence,  Where  Wee  Wintred. 
Eelation  XXX.     Our  Departure  From  the  Hand  of  Madagascar  or 

Saint  Lawrence,  our  toutching  and  reffreshing  att  the  Hand  off 

Saint  Hellena  and  our  arrivall  att  last  unto  the  Hand  ofif  Greatt 

Brittaine. 
Eelation  XXXI.     A  Petty  Progresse  through  som  parts  off  England 

and  Wales. 
Eelation   XXXII.     A   passage    From   England  over  in  to  Holland 

With  some  perticularities  off  thatt  Country. 
Eelation   XXXIII.     A  voyage   from  Amsterdam  unto  Dantzigk   in 

the    Baltick  Sea,  With    some  whatt  off  Prussia   etts.    Countries 

adjoyning. 
Eelation  XXXIV.     A  voyage  from  Dantzigk  in  the  East  or  Baltick 
Sea  unto  Saint  Michael  Arckangell  in  Russia,  lying  on  the  White 
Sea,  with  the  return  From  thence  and  some  small  observation  ofif 

those  Northerne  Regions. 


^  The  titles  of  Relations  XXL — XXVL  are  given,  with  some  variations, 
in  the  India  Office  copy  and  in  the  late  copy  at  the  British  Museum,  Add. 
MSS.,   19281. 


lO  THE   FIRST   TABLE 

Relation  XXXV.  Of  Dantzigk,  some  particularities  of  thatt  Citty 
Sett  Downe,  With  my  Departure  thence  and  arrivall  home  to 
England  once  againe. 

Eelation  XXXVI.  My  third  voyage  to  East  India  on  the  Ship 
Alleppo  Merchantt  for  Rajapore  etts. 


An  Appendix  somwhatt  Concerning  the  former  Relations  as  allsoe 
Matter  of  exercise  and  recreation  after  the  reading  of  soe  many 
tedious  voyages  and  Weary  Journies.  Penrin  the  fourth  february 
Anno  1649^ 

Some  Occurrences,  Passages,  etts.  since  my  last  comming  home 
London  9th.  August  16582. 

Some  Occurrences  of  these  Tymes  etts.^ 


COMPUTATION  OF  MILES  TRAVELLED  AND  SAILED 
IN  THE  SEVERALL  JOURNEIES  &  VOYAGES 
MENTIONED    IN   THIS    MEMORIALL   VIZ: 

From  my  First  going  Forth  With  Capt:  Davis,  Anno  161 1,  till  my 
arrivall  at  Constantinople  with  Mr.  James  Wiche,  161 7,  there 
hath    bin    gon    in    Sundry  voyages    Journeies    etts.   somme    of 

Miles 17394 

From  Constantinople  home  by  Land  with  the  Honorable  Paul 
Pindar,    late     Embassador     there     with     the     Grand     Signior, 

Anno  1620 1838 

Severall  voiages,  Journeies,  etts.  since  my  arrivall  in  England,  1620, 
till  I  Was  bound  outt  and  sett  saile  For  East  India,  1628        5880 
From  London  to  Suratt  in  East  India  in  Just  six  monthes  tyme       13713 
From  Suratt  to  Agra,  the  head  citty  of  India  by  land.  Anno  1630  551 

From    Agra    to    certaine    townes    thereabouts    and    to    the    River 
Ganges       ..........  180 

From  Agra  to  Puttna  in  Bengala  on  the  River  Ganges,  by  land        400|^ 
From  Puttana  backe  to  Agra  Anno  1632  ....         422f 

From  Agra  Downe  to  Suratt  With  a  Caphila  of  Indico  etts.  1632  598 

From    Suratt   home   on   the   Roy  all   Mary,   Capt.  Jas.   Slade,   Anno 

1634 137181 

^  This  Appendix  was  probably  added  by  the  author  when  he  revised  his 
MS.  after  the  loss  of  the  original  of  the  first  part,  as  stated  on  p.  2.  The 
appendix  is  continued  up  to  1654. 

2  These  "  Occurrences"  are  continued  up  to  1660. 

3  i.e.  from  1660  till  1667. 


THE   SECOND   TABLE  II 

From  London  Downe  to  Penrin  and  upp  againe  twice,  Anno 
1635 880 

From  England  to  Sundry  ports  and  Hands  in  East  India,  As  allso 
to  Macao  etts.  places  in  the  kingdom  of  China,  August,  Anno 
1637 17141 

From  Tayffoo,  Macao,  etts.  in  China  and  East  India  home,  beeing 
beaten  back  to  Madagascar  or  St.  Laurence  there  to  Winter, 
Anno  1638 18923 

From  England,  viz.  Falmouth,  through  some  parts  of  England  and 
Wales  over  to  Holland,  thence  to  Dantzigk  on  the  East  orBaltick 
Sea  :  Anno  1640 1944 

From  Dantzigk  on  the  Baltick  Sea  unto  Arckeangell  in  Russia  on  the 
White  Sea,  aboutt  by  the  North  Cape  alongst  the  Coasts  and  in 
sight  of  Norwey,  Lapland,  Fynland,  by  Way  of  Lubeck  and 
Hambro  :  and  back  againe  to  Dantzigk,  Anno  1641     .         5840 

From  Dantzigk  to  London  and  Downe  to  Falmouth  once  again, 
1647 1410 

From  Falmouth  to  London,  from  thence  to  East  India,  and  backe 
againe  to  London,  in  August,  Anno  1656       .         .         .       27900 


THE    SECOND    TABLE. 

{Aut/i07'^s  I?idex.) 

AN  ALPHABETICALL  TABLE  1  For  the  finding  off  sundry  par- 
ticularities Dispersed  throughoutt  this  book  and  Where 
this  Mark  *  is  you  must  looke  over  the  leaffe. 

[Here  follows  the  author's  index  of  418  entries,  which  is  not  printed. 
It  occupies  five  foolscap  pages  in  the  MS.^] 


^  This  Index  is  arranged  under  the  letters  of  the  alphabet,  but  the  words 
are,  nevertheless,  not  in  alphabetical  order.  There  are  several  additions  in  a 
different  ink,  evidently  made  at  a  later  date.  In  many  cases,  a  definition  of 
the  word  indexed  is  given  as  well  as  its  location  in  the  MS.  Where  these 
definitions  elucidate  the  text,  they  have  been  appended  as  footnotes. 

^  Immediately  after  the  Index  three  prints  ai-e  inserted  in  the  MS.  The 
smallest  contains  the  portrait  of  Thomas  Candyssh,  the  navigator,  at  the  age 
of  twenty-eight.  By  his  side  is  a  portrait  of  Sir  Francis  Drake  at  the  age  of 
forty-three.  Beneath  these  two  is  a  picture  of  a  three-masted  ship  in  full  sail, 
with  flags  and  pennants  flying. 

Following  the  three  illustrations  is  a  double-page  map  of  Europe,  by 
Hondius,  dated  1631,  with  the  route  of  Mundy's  voyages  and  journeys  marked 
in  red  dotted  lines.  The  reverse  of  the  map  is  covered  with  extracts  from 
Blount's  Voyage  in  the  Levant  and  notes  by  the  author,  made  in  Febiiiary,  1650. 
These  are  intended  to  amplify  and  illustrate  his  early  European  travels,  and 
are  printed  and  treated  in  Appendix  A. 


SUNDRIE   RELATIONS   OF  CERTAIN  VOYAG'S, 

JOURNEIES,  ETTS.,  PASSED  AND  PERFORMED 

BY   MEE,   PETER   MUNDY,   VIZT.' 

RELATION    I. 

Of  my  first  departttre  from  home  about  Anno   1608  nntill 

my  arrivall  at  Constantinople  in  Anno   16 17  and 

departure  thence  in  Anno   1620  as  followeth. 

From  Penrin^  in  Cornewall,  I  passed  with  my  father  to 
the  Cittie  of  Roane  ^  in  Normandie,  where  wee  stayed  one 
moneth,  and  then  retourned  home,  from  whence  I  was  sent 
to  Bayon*  in  Gascony  to  learne  the  French  Tongue,  where, 
haveinge  remayned  one  yeare,  I  came  home  againe  in  the 
yeare  1610. 

The  1st.  May,  161 1.  I  left  my  Parents,  and  went  upp 
to  London  with  Captaine  John  Davis^,  whome  I  served  as 

^  In  the  British  Museum  copy  of  Mundy's  Travels,  Harleian  MS.^ 
2286,  the  title  of  Relation  I.  is,  "  Sundrie  Relations  of  Certaine 
Journies  and  Voyages "  etc.,  and  the  title  in  "  The  Table "  is,^ 
"  Imprimis  my  passage  with  my  Father  to  the  Cittie  of  Roane  in 
Normandie,  Anno  1610,  and  at  my  returne  a  Voyage  from  London 
to  Constantinople." 

2  "  Penrin,  a  pretty  towne  in  Corne  Wall."     Authors  Index. 

3  Rouen.  *  Bayonne. 

^  This  man  is  neither  Captain  John  Davis  of  Sandridge,  the 
celebrated  explorer,  nor  Captain  John  Davis  of  Limehouse,  who  was 
in  the  East  India  Company's  service ;  but  it  is  possible  that  he  may 
be  the  John  Davis,  "son  of  William  Davis  of  Gracious  Street, 
London,  just  come  from  Spain,"  who  was  imprisoned  in  March  1619 
for  refusing  to  take  the  Oath  of  Allegiance  and  for  affirming  the  Pope 
to  be  the  sole  authority  in  ecclesiastical  matters  in  England.  See 
Calendar  of  State  Papers.,  Domestic  Series.,  1619 — 1623,  under  dates 
22  March  1619  and  29  July  1625. 


14  VOYAGES   AND   PASSAGES   FROM   ANNO    I 

Cabbin  boy  three  or  four  Voyages,  vizt.  to  Sanlucar  de 
Barrameda^,  Cadiz^,  Mallaga,  etc.,  and  att  length  was  left 
by  him  att  Sanlucar  afore  said  with  Mr.  George  Weaver^, 
dwellinge  in  the  howse  of  Sr  Pedro  Patinno^  There  I 
stayed  some  two  yeares,  from  whence  I  was  sent  upp  to 
the  Cittie  of  Sevill  to  remaine  with  Mr.  Charles  Parker^*, 
and  from  thence  I  went  to  Ayamonte*,  soe  over  to  Castro 
Mareen  and  Tavila^  in  Portugall,  and  back  againe  to 
CevilP,  where  I  lived  twoe  yeares  more,  and  in  that  tyme 
attained  the  Spanish  Tongue.  From  Sevill  I  came  to 
London  againe''  with  my  first  Master  Captaine  Davis^ 

I  had  not  bene  att  home  fifteen  dayes,  but  I  was  sent 
away  with  Mr.  James  Wiche",  bound  for  Constantinople  in 
the  Shipp  the  Royall  Mmxhmtt,  Captaine  Josua  Downinge^", 
with  whome  went  passengers  Mr.  James  Wiche  aforesaid 
my  then  Master,  Mr.  James  Garroway",  Mr.  Bartholomew 


^  At  the  mouth  of  the  Guadalquiver,  near  Cadiz.  Compare  The 
Voyage  to  Cadiz  hi  1625,  by  John  Glanville,  pp.  6,  35,  "The  Bay  of 

Cadiz  or  St.  Lucas St.  Mary  Port  near  the  Bay  of  Cadiz  was  a 

lowe  shore  and  more  apt  for  landing  of  Men  then  anie  place  about 
St.  Lucar." 

^  "  Cadiz  or  Cales,  a  towne  in  Spayne."     Author's  Index. 

^  I  have  failed  to  find  any  contemporary  mention  of  these  in- 
dividuals. Parker's  name  is  omitted  in  the  IBritish  Museum  copy  of 
Mundy's  early  Travels,  Harl.  MS.,  2286. 

*  A  fortress  at  the  mouth  of  the  Guadiana. 

^  Castro  Marin  and  Tavira  are  close  to  Ayamonte,  on  the  Portu- 
guese side  of  the  river. 

"  Probably  a  copyist's  error.  The  author  has  Sevill  in  his  I?idex 
and  elsewhere  in  the  MS. 

''  In  January,  1617.  ^  See  ante,  p.  13,  note  5. 

^  James  Wyche  was  the  sixth  son  of  Richard  Wyche,  a  prosperous 
London  merchant,  who  had  twelve  sons  and  died  in  162 1.  For 
an  account  of  the  family,  and  the  author's  connection  with  Richard, 
George,  James  and  Edward  Wyche,  see  Appendix  B. 

I''  For  the  Sailing  Orders  of  the  Royall  Marchant,  together  with 
a  short  account  of  Captain  Joshua  Downing,  see  Appe?uiix  C. 

11  The  Garways  or  Garraways  were  well-known  Levantine  and 
East  Indian  traders,  who  gave  their  name  to  Garraway's  Coffee-house 
in  Change  Alley,  one  of  the  most  famous  in  the  i8th  century.  James 
Garraway  was  probably  one  of  the  seventeen  children  of  Sir  William 
Garway  or  Garraway  and  brother  to  Anthony  Garraway,  who  was 


UNTILL  ANNO    162O  15 

Abbott^  Mr.  Roger  and  Mr.  Charles  Vivian 2,  with  five  or 
six  other  Merchants'^.  In  our  Passage  wee  made  sondry 
Ports,    vizt.    Gibraltare^    Mallaga^    Alicante",    Majorca^ 


residing  in  Constantinople  in  1617.  It  is  likely,  too,  that  James 
Garraway  was  sent  to  Constantinople  in  connection  with  the  affairs 
of  Arthur  Garraway.  This  individual  was  imprisoned  during  the 
reign  of  Ahmad  I.,  and  the  English  ambassadors,  Sir  Paul  Pindar 
and  Sir  Thomas  Roe  both  made  unsuccessful  attempts  to  recover 
what  had  been  extorted  from  him  by  the  Turks.  In  July,  1617, 
Pindar  wrote  to  the  Levant  Company,  and  "amplie  related  the  ill 
successe  he  had  had  in  the  prosecuting  the  suite  for  the  restitution  of 
Mr.  Arthur  Garrawayes  moneys  obtaining  nothing  but  delayes,  and  in 
the  end  no  Performance."  Sir  Henry  Garraway,  the  eldest  son  of 
Sir  William  Garraway,  a  Liveryman  of  the  Drapers'  Company,  became 
Lord  Mayor  of  London,  and  was  a  Director  of  the  Levant,  the  East 
India  and  the  Muscovy  Companies.  His  career  is  given  at  length  in 
the  Dictionary  of  National  Biography.  Two  other  sons  of  Sir  William 
Garraway,  Thomas  (who  died  in  1625)  and  WiUiam  were  among  the 
earliest  "Adventurers"  in  East  India  Stock.  Thomas  Garway  was 
said  to  be  the  original  proprietor  of  Garraway's  Coffee-house,  and, 
under  the  designation  of  "tobacconist  and  coffeeman,"  was  the  first 
retailer  of  tea.  Garraway's  Coffee-house,  which  was  twice  rebuilt,  was 
demolished  in  1873.     See  The  Times  28  Jan.  and  20  March  1873. 

^  Probably  a  relative  of  Mr  (afterwards  Sir)  Morris  Abbott,  a 
member  of  the  Levant  Company  and  the  owner  of  the  Royall 
Marchant.  Sir  Morris  Abbott  was  elected  Governor  of  the  East 
India  Company  in  March  1624.     He  died  in  1644. 

2  In  July,  1620,  Roger  Vivian  was  made  free  of  the  Levant 
Company  {State  Papers.,  Foreign  Archives^  vol.  148,  p.  43  a),  and 
in  1633  Charles  Vivian  was  admitted  a  "sworn  free  brother  of  the 
East  India  Company,  bound  to  Sir  Morris  Abbott"  {Calendar  of  State 
Papers.,  Colonial.,  East  Indies,  1630 — 1634,  p.  506). 

^  All  these  were  "  Turkey  merchants  "  trading  under  the  Levant 
Company. 

*  "Gibraltar:  a  town  at  the  straights  Mouth."  Author's  Ittdex. 
In  1599,  Gibraltar  is  called  Jebbatore  by  Dallam.  See  Early  Voyages 
in  the  Levant,  p.  11.  In  the  British  Museum  copy  of  Mundy's  early 
Travels,  Harl.  MS.,  2286,  the  head-line  from  this  place  until  the 
arrival  at  Scanderoon  is,  "  Sundry  Ports  and  Places  in  the  Straights." 

^  "  Mallaga,  a  seaport,  Within  the  straights  mouth."  Author's 
Index.  Malaga  is  called  "grand  Malligan"  by  Dallam.  See  Early 
Voyages  in  the  Levant,  p.   12. 

^  "  Alicante,  a  towne  in  the  streights."     Author's  Index. 

''  "Mayorca,  a  Citty  and  an  Hand."  Author's  Index.  Compare 
The  Journal  of  Richard  Bell,  Sloane  MS.,  811,  fol.  45,  "In  our  way  to 
Messena...we  past  the  iselands  of  Maj  and  Minyorke  and  by  the 
Iseland  of  Sardna." 


l6  VOYAGES   AND   PASSAGES   FROM   ANNO    1608 

Alcadia  in  Minorca^  Messena^  on  Scicillia^,  Zante,  Scan- 
darone  or  Allexandretta,  Scio''  neere  Smirna,  and  soe  to 
Constantinople,  Att  all  which  places  (Alcadia  excepted) 
were  English  Marchants^,  by  whome  wee  were  joyfully 
receaved  and  welcomed,  our  passage  being  very  pro- 
sperous, pleasant  and  full  of  various  Novelties  and  delights. 
Only  about  Cape  St.  Vincent  there  was  like  to  have  bene 
a  terrible  broyle*^  by  the  Comeinge  in  of  the  Kinge  of 
Spaines  Armade  amonge  our  fleete  in  the  night  tyme, 
Wee  suspectinge  them  to  be  Turkish  Pyratts''  as  they  did 
us,  there  being  notice  of  twenty  six  saile  lyeinge  about 
the  Straights  mouth,  the  Spanish  Fleete  consistinge  of 
about  Twentie  Galleons  etc.,  and  our  Fleete  of  about  thirty 
small  and  greate,  bound  for  severall  Ports.  But,  God  bee 
praised,  wee  parted  friends.  Other  matters  of  note  in  this 
our  passage  as   I  remember  are,  vizt. 

Leghorne  is  the  neatest,  cleanest  and  pleasantest  place 
that  I  have  seene,  their  houses  painted  without  side  in 
Stories,  Landskipps^  etc.,  with  various   Coulors,  makeing 


1  Alcadia  is,  however,  in  Majorca. 

2  For  a  description  of  Messina  in  1669,  see  The  Journal  of  Richard 
Bell,  Sloane  MS.,  811,  fol.  46. 

^  Dallam  has  "  Sissillia."     See  Early  Voyages  in  the  Levaiit,  p.  17. 

*  "  Scio,  a  towne  and  an  Hand  in  the  Archepielago."  Author's 
Index.  An  English  Consul  was  established  at  Scio  (or  Chios)  as 
early  as  1513.  For  a  description  of  Scio  in  1616,  see  Lithgow, 
Painefiill  Peregrinations,  ed.   1632,  p.   102. 

^  Minorca  is  expressly  noted  in  the  Charter  of  3  James  I.  to  the 
Levant  Company,  as  being  one  of  the  places  included  in  their  trading 
privileges,  but  there  is  no  mention  of  Majorca.  This  would  account 
for  the  absence  of  English  merchants  at  Alcadia.  The  references  to 
this  place  are  omitted  in  the  British  Museum  copy  of  Mundy's  early 
Travels,  HarL  MS.,  2286. 

^  Instead  of  "a  terrible  broyle"  the  passage  in  the  Harl.  MS., 
2286,  reads,  "  a  verie  terrible  and  bloodie  sea  fight." 

''  The  Turkish  pirates,  or  Barbary  Corsairs,  as  they  were  generally 
called,  were  the  great  obstacles  to  trade  in  the  Mediterranean  at  this 
period. 

*  The  contemporary  spelling  of  landscape,  but  lantskip  and  land- 
skip  are  more  common  than  landskipp.     See  Murray,  Oxford  English 


UNTILL   ANNO    1620  17 

a  verie  delightfull  shewed  There  they  observe  a  Custome 
called  Prattick-,  and  is  near  two  dayes  journie  from 
Plorence. 

Strombolo,  neare  Scicillia,  is  a  little  round,  high  Hand, 
castinge  forth  continuall  flames  of  fire  and  smoake,  not  soe 
well  perceaved  by  day  as  in  the  night,  with  such  violence 
that  it  carrieth  aboundance  of  stones  and  ashes  out  with  it^ 


Dictionary^  s.v.  Landscape.  The  description  of  the  "  Landskipps  "  at 
Leghorn  is  omitted  in  the  British  Museum  copy  of  Mundy's  early 
Travels,  Harl.  MS.,  2286. 

^  Compare  Struys,  Voyages  and  Travels,  ed.  1684,  p.  67,  "  Leg- 
horn...is  one  of  the  chief  Havens  in  renowned  Italy... The  City  on 
the  out-side  appears  more  magnificent  than  it  is  indeed  inwardly : 
The  Frontispieces,  as  well  of  Privat  as  Public  Buildings  being 
plaisterd,  upon  which  are  painted  Sea-fights,  Histories  and  Land- 
schap."     Struys  visited  Leghorn  in  1657. 

Compare  also  A  JoiirnaU  of  a  Voyage  thro^  France  and  Italy 
(in  1658),  Sloa7ie  MS.,  2142,  fol.  4,  "  Livorne  is  a  very  fine  and  hand- 
some towne,  though  the  ill  lives  of  the  Inhabitants  doe  some  what 
defame  it.  It  hath  a  very  fine  Port  belonging  to  it,  it  being  all  the 
Port  townes  belonging  to  the  great  Duke  of  Florence,  where  reside 
many  English  Marchants  and  men  of  other  Nations  which  is  the 
cause  that  it  is  of  the  greatest  repute  for  trade  of  any  Port  towne  in 
Europe,  It  is  a  place  of  great  strength  wherein  is  alwayes  a  Governour 
and  Garrison  to  defend  the  place." 

2  Pratique.  Permission  granted  to  the  crew  and  passengers  of  a 
ship  to  enter  a  port,  to  land,  trade,  etc.  See  later  on,  in  Relation  II., 
where  the  custom  is  fully  described  by  the  author  on  his  arrival  at 
Spalato.  Compare  Dallam's  account  of  "proticke,"  Early  Voyages 
in  the  Levant,  p.  19  In  1669,  Richard  Bell  and  John  Campbell  were 
detained  in  the  Lazaretto  at  Leghorn  for  forty  days  ;  The  Jourtial 
of  Richard  Bell,  Sloane  MS.,  811. 

^  Compare  Lithgow,  Painefull  Peregrinations,  ed.  1632,  p.  398, 
"We  fetched  up  the  little  He  of  Strombolo  [in  1616]:  This  Isolet  is 
a  round  Rocke,  and  a  mile  in  Compasse,  growing  to  the  top  like  to  a 
Pomo,  or  Pyramide,  and  not  much  unlike  the  Isolets  of  Basse  and 
Elsey,  through  the  toppe  whereof,  as  through  a  Chimney,  arriseth  a 
continuall  fire,  and  that  so  terrible,  and  furiously  casting  foorth  great 
stones  and  flames,  that  neyther  Galley  nor  Boate  dare  Coast  or 
boord  it." 

In  1628,  the  Rev.  Charles  Robson  thus  describes  Stromboli,  in 
his  News  fi'oni  Aleppo,  p.  10,  "At  last  we  passed  by  a  litle  Island 
some  five  Leagues  before  we  come  to  Sicilia,  which  belcheth  out 
continually  huge  flames  of  fire.  I  did  see  it  vomit  up  eight  times, 
while  we  sayled  in  sight  of  it :  the  name  of  this  Island  is  Strumbola,"- 

Compare  also  The  fournal  of  Richard  Bell,  Sloane  MS.,  Srr, 
"We  weere  becalmed  amonge  the  burninge  Iselands  for  two  dayes. 
They  are  calld,  i   Strumbelo,   2  Vulcan,  3  Vulcanello  *  *  *   within 

M.  2 


l8  VOYAGES   AND   PASSAGES   FROM  ANNO    1608 

The  Stones  fallinge  into  the  Sea  fleete^  on  the  water 
and  by  us  are  called  Pummice  stones,  of  which  there  is  a 
naturall  reason. 

Zante  a  small  Island  from  whence  wee  have  Currence^ 
of  which  the  Inhabitants  reape  such  benefitt  as  that  they 
will  not  affoard  themselves  so  much  ground  as  to  Till 
theire   Corne^    being   supplyed    from    the    Mayne.      This 


three  or  four  leagues  six  or  seven  little  Iselands  not  Inhabbited,  which 
smooke,  but  that  cald  Vulcan  most,  and  now  [in  1669]  burnes  more 
furiosi)'  then  Strumbeloe  did,  which  at  this  day  flames  much  most 
visible  in  the  night." 

1  Old  form  of  "  float." 

2  Compare  Shakespeare,  Winter's  Tale,  iv.  3.  40,  "  Three  pound  of 
Sugar,  four  pound  of  Currence,  Rice."  Gainsford,  Glo?y  of  Etiglattd, 
p.  40,  has,  "Xante,  an  Hand  famous  for  Vallies  yeelding  4000  tunne  of 
Gorans  every  yeere." 

^  For  Dallam's  description  of  Zante  in  1599,  and  for  Covel's 
remarks  (in  1670)  on  the  prevalence  of  earthquakes  in  the  island, 
see  Early   Voyages  in  the  Levant,  pp.   18  and  126. 

The  quaint  description  of  Lithgow,  who  visited  Zante  in  1610, 
is  worth  quoting,  Painefull  Peregrinations,  p.  64,  "  Zante  was  called 
Zacinthus,  because  so  was  called  the  sonne  of  Dardanus,  who  reigned 
there  *  *  *  It  hath  a  Gitty  *  *  *  subject  yearely  to  fearefuU  Earth- 
quakes, especially  in  the  moneths  of  October  and  November,  which 
oftentimes  subvert  their  houses  and  themselves,  bringing  deadly 
destruction  on  all  *  *  *  This  He  produceth  good  store  of  Rasini  de 
Gorintho,  commonly  called  Gurrants  *  *  »  The  llanders  are  Greekes, 
a  kind  of  subtile  people,  and  great  dissemblers ;  but  the  Signory 
thereof  belongeth  to  Venice  *  *  *  And  if  it  were  not  for  that  great 
provision  of  corne,  which  are  dayly  transported  from  the  firme  land  of 
Peleponesus  to  them,  the  Inhabitants  in  short  time  would  famish.  It 
was  credibly  told  me  here  by  the  better  sort,  that  this  little  lie  maketh 
yearely  *  *  *  onely  of  Gurrants  160000  Ghickins,  paying  yearely  over 
and  above  for  Gustome  22000  Piasters,  every  Ghicken  of  gold  being 
nine  shillings  English,  and  every  Piaster  being  white  money  sixe 
shillings.  A  rent  or  summe  of  mony  which  these  silly  llanders  could 
never  affoord  *  *  *  if  it  were  not  here  in  England  of  late  for  some 
Liquorous  lips,  who  forsooth  can  hardly  digest  Bread,  Pasties,  Broth, 
and  (verbi  gratia)  bag  puddings  without  these  currants  *  *  *  There 
is  no  other  nation  save  this  thus  addicted  to  that  miserable  lie." 

George  Sandys,  who  also  visited  Zante  in  16 10,  says,  Travels, 
ed.  1673,  p.  4,  that  the  islanders  traded  especially  with  England  and 
Holland,  that  they  paid  yearly  "  unto  St.  Mark  48000  Dollars  for 
Gustoms  and  other  Duties,"  besides  "  their  private  gettings,  amounting 
to  150000  Zechins  *  *  *  They  sow  little  Gorn,  as  imploying  their 
grounds  to  better  advantages,  for  which  reason  they  sometimes  suffer, 
being  ready  to  starve,  when  the  weather  continueth  for  a  season 
tempestuous,  and  that  they  cannot  fetch  their  provision,  which  they 


UNTILL   ANNO    1620  I9 

place  is  much  frequented  with  Earthquakes,  Subject  to 
the  Venetians,  for  which  they  pay  a  Certaine  Tribute  to 
the  Turke  that  hee  would  not  molest  them. 

Scandarone  or  Allexandretta  is  the  Sea  port  of 
Alleppo\  some  three  dayes  Journie  distant.  It  is  very 
unwholsome  by  reason  of  the  huge  high  hills  hindringe 
the  approach  of  the  Sunne  Beames,  untill  nine  or  ten  a 
Clocke  in  the  morning,  lyeinge  in  a  great  Marsh  full  of 
boggs,  foggs  and  Froggs^  the  Topps  of  the  Mountaines 
continually  covered  with  Snowe,  aboundinge  with  wild 
beasts,  as  Lyons,  Wylde  Boares,  Jacalls,  Porcupines,  etc. 
Of  the  latter,  there  was  one  killed,  brought   aboard,  and 

have  as  well  of  Flesh  as  of  Corn,  from  Morea,  being  ten  leagues 
distant." 

Struys,  who  visited  Zante  in  1658,  remarks,  Voyages  and  Travels, 
p.  98,  "  Sante  or  Xante  *  *  *  on  this  Island  is  a  City  containing  about 
4000  Houses,  or  rather  Cottages,  without  chimneys,  that  they  say,  is  by 
reason  of  frequent  Earthquakes,  of  which  they  are  in  daily  jeopardy." 

1  Scanderoon,  where  the  Levant  Company  had  a  Consul,  was  the 
outlet  of  the  commerce  of  Aleppo.  All  the  ships  trading  to  the  East 
touched  at  Scanderoon  before  going  on  to  Constantinople. 

^  Compare  Dallam's  remarks  on  Scanderoon  in  1599,  Early 
Voyages  in  the  Leva?it^  pp.  28,  30.  Compare  also  News  frotn 
Aleppo  (in  1628),  p.  11,  "Wee  arrived  in  safety  at  Alexandretta 
alias  Scanderone,  which  we  found  full  of  the  carcases  of  houses,  not 
one  house  in  it.  It  having  been  a  litle  before  sackt  by  the  Turkish 
Pyrats.  The  unwholesomest  place  in  the  world  to  live  in,  by  reason 
of  the  grosse  fogges  that  both  discend  from  the  high  mountaines, 
and  ascend  from  the  moorish  [marshy]  valleys.  The  hills  about  it 
are  so  high,  that  till  ten  of  the  clocke  in  the  morning  the  Sunne 
seldome  or  never  peepeth  over  them." 

Among  Mundy's  notes  on  the  extracts  from  Blount's  Voyage  into 
the  Levant^  most  of  which  are  given  in  Appendix  A,  is  the  following 
in  connection  with  Scanderoon : — "  Within  eight  or  ten  leagues  of 
Alexandretta  Sir  Weaker  Rawleigh  placeth  the  citty  of  Issus,  where 
Darius  King  of  Persia  was  overthrowne  by  Alexander  Major,  his 
great  and  pompous  (although  unwarlike)  army  routed,  his  Wife  and 
Children  taken  prisoners;  see  the  battaile  of  Issus,  Sir  W.  R.  p.  177: 
hb.  4  [p.  147  of  ed.  1634].  In  dicto  Booke,  lib.  4:  p.  175  [p.  145  of 
ed.  1634],  mention  is  made  of  the  straights  of  Cilicia  where  Alexander 
passed  into  Persia,  was  questionless  through  some  part  of  those 
mighty  high  hills  near  Alexandretta,  continually  covered  with  snow, 
and  one  overtopping  another  in  height,  being  part  of  the  Mountaine 
Taurus,  which  reckned  to  begin  heere,  and  the  ridge  of  hills  running 
through  divers  countries,  as  India,  are  named  Caucasus,  beeing  called 
diversly  according  to  the  countries  it  passeth  through ;  in  the  Scripture 
they  are  called  Ararat." 


20  VOYAGES   AND   PASSAGES   FROM   ANNO    1608 

roasted,  proveing  very  Savourie  meate,  haveing  eaten  part 
thereof  myselfe,  as  also  of  a  wild  boare  ;  great  store  of 
Wild  fowle,  haveing  seene  a  flight  of  wild  Swanns ; 
aboundance  of  Fish. 

Betweene  Scandarone  and  Constantinople^  wee  passed 
among  the  fruitefull  Islands  of  Archipielago,  and  soe  upp 
the  Hellespont,  in  which  on  the  right  hand,  wee  sawe  the 
place  Whereon  once  Troy^  stood.  This  Hellespont,  now 
called  the  River  of  Constantinople-'  (for  any  thinge  I  could 
gather),  runneth  continually  one  way,  vizt.  from  the  Blacke 
Sea  into  the  Mediterraneum.  The  mouth  of  the  Black  Sea 
is  about  twenty  miles  above  Constantinople,  where  is  a 
small  Island  or  Rocke,  on  which  standeth  a  Marble 
Pillar,  called  Pompey's  Pillar^  which,  (Tradition  saith), 
hee  erected  there  as  the  bounds  of  his  Conquest,  seeinge 


1  In  the  British  Museum  copy  of  Mundy's  early  Travels,  Harl. 
MS.,  2286,  the  head-line  from  this  point  is,  "Voyage  from  London 
unto  Constantinople." 

2  All  the  17th  century  travellers  in  the  East  write  at  length  on  the 
ruins  of  Troy.  See  Dallam,  Early  Voyages  in  the  Levant,  p.  49, 
Lithgovv's  Painefiill Peregrinations,  pp.  122 — 125,  Delia  Valle,  Voyages, 
ed.  1664,  vol.  i.  p.  12  f. 

Compare  also  Struys,  Voyages  and  Travels,  p.  78,  "  Wee  sailed  into 
the  River  of  Constantinople,  where  we  found  the  Sea-Armade  of  Venice 
at  Troy,  which  is  the  place  and  remnant  of  the  famous  Troy  so  much 
read  of  in  the  Poets  of  old,  although  it  is  hard  to  judge  where  the 
Town  has  verily  stood.  All  that  is  to  be  seen  is  a  Gate  which  is  built 
of  marble,  and  seems  to  be  exceeding  ancient,  and  a  small  village  with 
the  Foundations  of  a  wall  that  encompasse  the  Town  seven  times." 

^  i.e.  the  Dardanelles.  Compare  Sandys,  Travels,  ed.  1673, 
P-   J9f- 

*  Compare  Lithgow's  description  of  Pompey's  Pillar,  Pai7iefull  Pere- 
grinations, p.  140,  "  I  went  to  the  blacke  Sea... where  I  saw  Pompeyes 
Pillar  of  Marble,  standing  neere  the  shoare,  upon  a  rocky  Hand ;  and 
not  far  from  thence,  is  a  Lanthorne  higher  then  any  Steeple,  whereon 
there  is  a  panne  full  of  liquor,  that  burneth  every  night  to  give  warning 
unto  ships  how  neare  they  come  to  the  shore." 

For  other  descriptions  of  the  pillar,  see  Sandys,  Travels,  p.  31^ 
Gainsford,  Glory  of  England,  pp.  181,  191,  Delia  Valle,  Voyages, 
vol.  i.  p.  34  f,  Tournefort,  Voyage  into  the  Levant,  vol.  ii.  p.  113. 

When  Hobhouse  visited  Constantinople  in  1809 — 1810,  there  was 
nothing  left  of  Pompey's  Pillar  but  "a  fragment  of  white  marble  a 
Httle  more  than  five  feet  high  and  nine  feet  and  a  half  in  circum- 
ference."    Hobhouse,  Journey  through  Albania,  vol.  ii.  pp.  869,  870. 


UNTILL   ANNO    162O  21 

noe  more  land  beyond  it.  To  this  place  one  day  divers 
Merchants  resorted  for  recreation,  my  selfe  beinge  alsoe 
there.  The  Sea  is  accompted  250  leagues  long  and 
70  leagues  wide  thereabouts. 

Lastly  the  famous  Port  and  Imperiall  Cittie  of  Con- 
stantinople, of  which  there  beinge  soe  ample  and  elegant 
description  else  where^  (as  in  Mr.  Sands  travells",  &c.), 
I  forbeare  reiteration,  only  thus  much.  Sultan  Achmatt 
died  att  my  beinge  there^,  and  his  brother  Sultan  Mustapha 
seated  on  his  throne*,  whoe  within  three  monethes^  upon 
dislike  of  his  Government,  was  displaced  by  the  Bashaes®, 

1  Constantinople  has  received  full  attention  from  all  the  early 
travellers.  See  the  various  descriptions  quoted  by  the  author  in  his 
Supplement  to  this  Relation,  added  in  1649 — 1650.  See  also  Busbe- 
quius,  Travels  into  Turkey  (in  1555),  ed.  1744,  pp.  46 — 54;  Lithgow, 
Painefiill  Peregrinations,  pp.  132 — 139;  Delia  Valle,  Voyages,  ed. 
1664,  vol.  i.  pp.  24 — 45  ;  Thevenot,  Travels  into  the  Levant,  ed.  1687, 
Part  i.  pp.  19 — 28. 

^  Sandys,  Travels  containing... A  Description  of  Constanti7iople, 
first  published  in   161 5. 

^  On  the  22nd  November,  1617. 

*  Mustafa,  Ahmad's  weak-minded  brother,  whom  he  had  kept  in 
captivity  for  fourteen  years.  Compare  Blount's  account  of  this  event, 
Voyage  into  the  Levant,  p.  I25f,  "Now  as  all  bodyes,  though  never 
so  strong,  are  subject  to  blowes  from  without,  and  diseases  within :  so 
is  this  Empyre  obnoxious  to  the  Persian  abroad,  and  errors  of  Govern- 
ment at  home;  one  hath  hapned  of  late  years,  which  hath  had 
pernicious  disorder ;  that  was  the  mercy  of  Achmat,  to  his  brother 
Mustapha,  whom  he  seeing  a  book-man,  and  weake,  did  not  destroy; 
this  was  contrary  to  the  Othoman  custome ;  and  left  a  subject  for 
ambition,  and  disgust,  which  rather  then  be  without,  would  make  one 
of  waxe  if  it  were  possible  ;  much  more  dangerous  was  it  to  leave  one 
of  colourable  pretext,  where  there  was  so  insolent  a  faction  as  the 
Janyzaries :  They  forthwith  served  their  turne  hereof,  who  else  had 
not  beene  provided  of  a  King,  and  so  forced  to  endure  Osman,  for 
feare  of  destroying  that  line,  in  whose  defect,  they  fall  under  the 
petit  Tartars,  which  they  abhorre.  This  gave  them  occasion  to 
taste  the  Blood  Royall,  whose  reverence  can  never  be  restored,  with- 
out abolishing  the  order  of  Janizaries,  which  hath  been  the  Sword 
hand  of  the  Empire." 

^  Here  the  author  notes,  "Three  grand  Signiors  in  three  monethes." 

^  Turkish  bdshd,  a  grandee.  Mustafa  was  again  imprisoned,  after 
a  reign  of  three  months,  by  the  Janissaries,  who  revolted  in  favour  of 
Osman.  In  1622,  he  was  once  more  dragged  from  prison,  and  for 
fifteen  months  was  the  nominal  ruler,  when  he  was  again  deposed  in 
favour  of  Amurath  IV.  (Murad  IV.). 


22  VOYAGES   AND   PASSAGES   FROM   ANNO    1608 

and   Ozman,  eldest  Sonne  to   Achmatt\  was  established, 
whoe  lived  att  my  comeinge  away. 

Heere  the  English  Merchants  passe  verie  Commo- 
diousley  with  pleasure,  love  and  Amitye  amonge  them- 
selves, wearinge  our  owne  Countrie  habitt.  Provision, 
fruite  and  Wyne  very  good  varietye  and  plenties  Heere 
I  remained  about  three  yeares.     The  second  yeare  after 


^  Compare  Grimston's  Translation  of  Baudier's  History  of  the 
Iniperiall  Estate  of  the  Gra7id  Seigneurs^  p.  168  f.  "Achmat  ended 
his  life  and  Raigne  in  the  yeare  161 7,  he  left  two  young  sonnes, 
Osman  and  Amurath ;  He  knew  by  experience  that  the  weight  of 
such  a  Crowne  could  not  be  borne  by  a  Childe,  and  that  the  absolute 
government  of  the  Turkish  Monarchie  required  a  man :  He  called  to 
the  succession  of  his  Scepter,  his  brother  Mustapha  who  had  beene 
fourteene  yeares  a  Prisoner  in  his  Serrail,  and  made  him  to  taste  this 
sweet  change,  to  come  from  a  Dungeon  to  a  Throne,  and  from  the 
fetters  of  tedious  captivitie  to  that  power  to  command  the  greatest 
Estate  upon  the  Earth.  But  the  great  rigour  of  his  command,  and  the 
extravagances  of  his  inconstant  humour,  made  him  odious  to  the 
Captaine  Bassa ;  he  gained  the  other  three  \^pashas\  who  drew  the 
Souldiers  and  some  great  men  unto  their  party,  they  unthroned  him, 
put  him  into  his  Prison,  and  set  up  Osman  sonne  to  his  brother 
Achmat,  This  example  was  in  our  daye :  but  that  which  followeth  is 
so  fresh,  as  the  newes  hereof  came  when  I  was  labouring  about  this 
worke.  Osman  not  well  satisfied  with  the  affection  of  the  Janizaries 
(who  are  the  sinewes  of  his  Estate)  and  disliking  some  of  the  four 
Bassa's,  had  an  intent  to  change  the  Seat  of  his  Empire  to  Cairo,  and 
to  abandon  Constantinople ;  he  prepares  himselfe,  gathers  together  as 
much  Treasures  as  hee  could,  and  covers  his  designe,  with  the  pretext 
of  a  Pilgrimage  to  Meque,  where  he  said  his  intent  was  to  accomplish 
a  vow,  and  to  make  as  great  a  gift  as  ever  Prince  made  unto  a  Temple 
of  what  Religion  soever.  When  as  he  had  managed  his  enterprize 
unto  the  day  of  his  departure,  when  as  his  Galleyes  were  readie,  and 
the  Bassa  of  Caire  come  with  an  Armie  to  receive  him;  the  Janizaries 
were  advertised,  they  runne  to  the  Serrail  with  the  Consent  of  the 
Aga,  the  people  are  moved,  the  Captaine  Bassa  stirres  them  up,  they 
take  the  Sultan  in  his  Chamber,  kill  some  great  Men  in  his  presence, 
dragge  him  into  a  prison,  and  there  make  him  to  suffer  a  shameful! 
death  by  the  hands  of  an  Executioner,  having  drawne  Mustapha  his 
Uncle  out  of  Prison  again,  and  crowned  him  the  second  time 
Soveraigne  Sultan  of  the  Turkish  Empire." 

The  news  of  the  deposition  of  Mustafa  and  also  "that  Sultan 
Ossaman  eldest  sonne  of  Sultan  Achomet  Cham,  the  grand  Signior 
deceased  was  elected  in  his  stead "  was  forwarded  to  the  Levant 
Company  by  Sir  Paul  Pindar  and  was  read  in  Court  on  the  15th  April, 
1618.     State  Papers^  Foreigft  Archives,  vol.  148,  p.  11. 

^  The  English  merchants  resided,  for  the  most  part,  in  Pera, 
a  suburb  of  Constantinople,  where  was  the  house  of  the  English 
ambassador. 


UNTILL   ANNO    162O  23 

our  arrivalP,  my  Master^  died  of  the  small  pox,  beinge  in 
tyme  of  Pestilence,  which  Customarily  visitts  the  Cittie 
once  in  fowre  yeares,  or  five  att  the  most  I  Soe  remained 
with  Mr.  Lawrence  Greene*  untill  the  departure  of  the 
Honourable  Paule  Pindar^,  being  licensed  by  the  Grand 
Signior,  and  Sir  John  Eyers^  arriving  to  supply  his  placed 


1  In  1618.  ^  James  Wyche.     See  p.  14. 

3  Compare  Lithgow,  Pai7iefull  Peregrinations^  p.  138,  "  Constanti- 
nople...is  subject. ..to  divers  Earth  quakes. ..And  commonly  every 
third  yeare  the  pestilence  is  exceeding  great  in  that  City."  Compare 
also  Delia  Valle,  Voyages^  vol.  i.  p.  49  f. 

*  Lawrence  Greene,  Senior,  was  a  director  of  the  Levant  Com- 
pany at  this  time,  and  is  frequently  mentioned  in  the  Court  Minutes. 
On  the  2nd  Aug.,  1616,  it  was  ordered  that  ^30  be  advanced  to 
Mr  Greene,  as  agent  for  Mr  King,  the  Company's  chaplain  at 
Constantinople.  Again,  on  the  3rd  May,  1621,  "One  Mr.  Greene" 
undertakes  to  make  good  any  loss  to  the  Company  in  case  the 
chaplain,  Mr  Cadwallader  Salisbury,  should  die  before  the  ^50  ad- 
vanced him  should  be  due  to  him.  Pearson,  Chaplains  of  the  Levant 
Company^  p.  47. 

In  1 62 1,  Lawrence  Greene  and  Richard  James  were  elected 
members  of  a  Committee  of  the  East  India  Company.  They  "de- 
sired to  be  spared,  but  the  Court  would  in  no  wise  consent."  They, 
however,  only  served  for  three  months.  Lawrence  Greene  died  before 
1634.  See  Calendar  of  State  Papers^  Colonial,  East  Indies,  161 7 — 
1621,  pp.  435,  468;  1630 — 1634,  p.  486.  The  Lawrence  Greene  whom 
Mundy  served  for  two  years,  and  whom  he  left  at  Constantinople 
in  1620  (see  beginning  of  Relatio7t  II.),  was  probably  a  son  of  the 
Director  and  identical  with  the  Lawrence  Greene,  a  merchant,  who,  in 
1 64 1,  petitioned  for  a  warrant  for  the  transport  of  twenty  passengers 
and  provisions  to  Virginia,  where  he  had  twenty-four  servants. 
Calendar  of  State  Papers,  Colonial,  1574 — 1660,  p.  322.  For  further 
particulars  of  this  man,  see  Relation  II. 

^  Sir  Paul  Pindar  had  held  the  office  of  Ambassador  at  Con- 
stantinople since  161 1.  In  September,  1616,  he  had  written  to  the 
Court  of  the  Levant  Company,  desiring  to  be  recalled  on  account 
of  his  health,  but  was  urged  to  remain  a  year  or  two  longer,  with 
increased  allowances.  To  this  he  agreed  in  a  letter  dated  21st  March, 
161 7.  For  further  particulars  of  Pindar,  during  his  embassy,  see 
Appendix  D. 

^  Sir  John  Eyre  was  appointed  to  fill  Pindar's  place  in  1619  and 
was  recalled  in  1621.  For  details  of  his  appointment  and  his  un- 
popularity, together  with  a  short  notice  of  the  Levant  Company  at  the 
time  of  Mundy's  connection  with  it,  see  Appendix  D. 

''  The  British  Museum  copy  of  Mundy's  early  Travels,  Harl.  MS., 
2286,  ends  here,  and  has  neither  "Computation"  of  miles  nor  "Supple- 
ment" to  Relation  I. 


24  VOYAGES   AND   PASSAGES   FROM   ANNO    1608 

Computation  of  Miles  travelled  in  the  voyages  aforegoeinge 
as  also  the  distances  of  some  places,  one  from  the  other. 

Miles 

From  Penrin  to  Roane  in  Normandie  is  accompted 

Miles  300  and  backe  againe  is  .  .  .  .  600 
From  Penrin  to  Bayon  in  Gascony  is  accompted 

Miles  480  and  backe  againe  is  .  .  .  960 
From  Penrin  to  London  by  Sea  is  .  .  .  400 
From    London   to    Cadiz    miles    1450   and    backe 

againe  is 2900 

From   London  to  Mallaga  miles   1590  and  backe 

againe  is  .  .  ,  .  .  .  .  .3180 
From  London  to  Sanlucar  is         .         .         .         ,        1430 

From  thence  to  Sevill  is 60 

From   Sevill  to  Ayamonte  miles  78  from  thence 

to  Tavila  in  Portugall  is  24  miles  .          .  102 

From  Tavila  backe  to  Sevill  is     .         .         .         .  102 

From  Sevill  backe  to  London  is  .         .         .         .       1490 
From  London  to  Allexandretta  the  very  bottome 

of  the  Straights  is   1460  leagues  and      .  .       4380 

From    Allexandretta    to    Constantinople    is    ac- 
compted 450  leagues  and  amounts  to    ,         .        1350 
From  Constantinople  to    Pompeus  Pillar^  att   the 
mouth  of  the  Black  Sea  is  accompted  Miles 
20  and   backe  againe  is  ....         .  40 

Summa  totalis  Miles     17394 

Author's  Supplement'^  to  Relation  I. 

The  aforegoinge  Relation  is  only  some  Voyages  etts. 
recalled  to  memorye  since  my  first  settinge  forth,  Anno 
1608,  untill  my  departure,  Anno   1620. 

1  See  note  4  on  p.  20. 

2  The  "  Supplement "  to  Relation  I.  was  added  by  Mundy  when 
he  revised  his  MS.  in  1649 — 1650.  It  is  in  his  own  writing  and  is  on 
different  paper  from  the  rest  of  the  Rawliiison  copy. 


UNTILL  ANNO    162O  25 

Concerning  Constantinople,  where  I  remayned  three 
or  four  years,  I  tooke  no  notice  of  any  thing  untill  my 
departure  thence,  and  what  I  have  don  since  is  but  course 
and  Coursary.  Therefore,  for  the  satisfaction  of  those 
that  desire  better  Information  concerning  that  great 
Citty,  the  Serragho,  with  the  Imperiall  Seate  of  the 
grand  Signeurs,  their  Habitations,  hves,  titles,  quallities, 
exercises,  worcks,  revenues.  Habit,  discent,  ceremonies, 
Wives,  concubines,  etts..  Judgements,  officers,  favourites, 
Religion,  power,  governement  and  tyranny — let  them 
peruse  the  History  of  the  Serraglio  and  court  of  the 
Gran  Signeur,  exactly  and  elaborately  written  in  french 
by  Signeur  Michael  Baudier  of  Languedock,  translated 
by  Mr.  Edward  Grymestone,  printed  in  London  Anno 
1635 ^  It  mentions  untill  yong  Amurath  the  4th.  who 
reigned  A.  1626^.     Among  other  matters  thus  in  briefs 

Constantinople  standeth  on  seven  hills  containing  in 
circuit  about  fifteen  miles,  Galata,  etts.,  on  the  other  side 
of  the  water  not  reckoned ;  two  thousand  Mosquees 
or  turkish  Churches ;  the  Greek  Christians  have  forty. 
Churches  ;  the  Jewes  thirty  eight  sinagogues.  The  francks 
or  Italians  have  two  Churches  on  the  other  side  in  Gallata. 
It  hath  seven  hundred  and  forty  publick  fountaines.  The 
Armenians  have  four  Churches. 


1  The  full  title  of  the  book  is.  The  History  of  the  Imperiall  Estate 
of  the  Grand  Seigtteurs :  Their  Habitations^  Lives^  Titles^  Qualities^ 
Exercises^  Workes,  Revenues,  Habit,  Discent,  Cereni07iies,  Alagnifi- 
cence,  fudgements,  Officers,  Favourites,  Religion,  Power,  Uovernment 
and  Tyranny.  Translated  out  of  French  by  E.  G.,  S.  A.  [Edward 
Grimston,  Sergeant  at  Arms],  London,  1635. 

^  The  date  of  the  accession  of  Murad  or  Amurath  IV.  is  1623. 

^  The  author  now  proceeds  to  quote  Grimston  in  his  own  fashion 
with  emendations  and  omissions.  The  extracts,  as  they  stand  in 
the  English  translation  of  the  work,  will  be  found,  at  length,  in 
Appendix  E. 


26  VOYAGES   AND   PASSAGES   FROM   ANNO    1608 

The  tribut  called  Charay^  levied  on  the  Jewes  at  Con- 
stantinople, being  one  Chequeene^  for  every  male  child, 
amounts  to  eleven  Milliones  three  hundred  chequeene 
(a  mistake  I  conceive,  1 1  milliones  for  1 1  Mille,  in  french, 
1000^).  Every  greeke  here  and  within  three  miles  of  the 
Citty  pay  allsoe  one  Zequeene,  amounting  unto  thirty 
eight  thousand  Chekeenes  per  annum.  The  description 
of  the  Citty  is  from  p.   i  to  p.   i8^ 

Concerning  the  serraglio,  weomen®,  treasure,  officers, 
etts.,  it  foUoweth  from  p.   18  to  p.   191,  the  end. 

Allsoe  in  Mr.  Sands®  there  is  some  relation  of  the 
above  mentiond,  there  beeing  the  draught  or  print  of  the 
Citty,  allso  of  the  serraglio  apart,  with  othersl  Allsoe 
in  Mr.  Blunt  of  the  turkish  moderne  Condition*,  unto 
whome  I  referr  you  for  a  more  elegant  description  of  the 
above  written. 

As  concerning  their  Religion,  it  is  handled  somwhat 
largely  by  Mr.  Purchase  in  his  pilgrimage^. 

For  the  severall  habitts  used  att  Constantinople,  where 
most   officers    and    Nationes    are    distinguished    by   their 

^  Caratch  (Arab.  khardj\  the  tribute  or  poll-tax  levied  by  the 
Turks  on  their  Christian  subjects.  Compare  Dumont,  A  New  Voyage 
to  the  Levant,  ed.  1696,  p.  281,  "The  Greeks... are  forc'd  to  pay  a 
yearly  Tribute,  call'd  the  Carache...a  perpetual  Poll-tax,  and  exceeds 
not  four  Piasters  a  Man." 

^  Sequin.  A  gold  coin  of  Italy,  the  Venetian  zecchino,  worth  from 
about  seven  shillings  to  nine  shillings  and  sixpence  English  money. 
See  Hobson-Jobson,  s.v.  Chick. 

^  The  words  within  brackets  are  an  interpolation  by  Mundy. 

*  i.e.  of  Grimston's  book. 

^  The  author  notes  here,  "  Weomen  about  300  in  the  serraglio  for 
the  Gran  Signior." 

"  Travels.,  containing  an  History  of  the  Original  and  present  State 
of  the  'J'urkish  E77ipire,  Their  Laws.,  Government.,  Policy.,  Military 
Force.,  Courts  of  Justice,  and  Commerce,  etc.  etc.  By  George  Sandys, 
1st  ed.   1615. 

''  On  p.  24  of  ed.  1673. 

^  Blount,  Voyage  into  the  Levant.     See  Appendix  A  for  full  title. 

9  See  pp.  297 — 303,  306,  308 — 325  of  ed.  1626  of  Piirchas  His 
Pilgrimage. 


UNTILL   ANNO    162O  2/ 

habits,  I  have  a  Httle  booke,  only  of  that  particuler, 
painted  by  the  Turcks  themselves  in  Anno  161 8,  although 
no  great  art  therein,  yet  enough  to  satisfie  concerning 
that  Matter^ 

An  Asper  is  about  a  halfe  penny,  for  about  90,  or 
sometimes  100  make  a  Ryall  of  eight  or  a  Reichs  Doller^; 
a  chequeene  worth  about  Ss.  English^.  [Signed]  Penrin, 
2d.  February,  1649/50. 

Concerning  Constantinople  and  the  Seraglio,  Thomas 
Gainesford  in  his  book  of  the  Glory  of  England,  Lib.  2, 
page  262,  saith  thus* : — This  Imperiall  place  looketh  with 
a  more  Mareschall^  countenance  then  other  Citties.  Con- 
stantinople, otherwise  called  Stamboll,  the  beautifull,  Hath 
a  handsome  and  formall  triangle  of  a  wall.  The  first  part 
reacheth  from  the  Seven  Towers  to  the  Seraglio,  some 
three  English  miles.  The  second  from  the  Seraglio  to 
Porto  del  Fieume,  a  little  more,  and  both  towards  the 
Sea,  which  runneth  one  way  into  Euxinum  and  another 
way  to  encounter  a  prettie  fresh  River  on  the  North  of 
Pera.  The  third  overlooketh  the  feilds  of  Thracia  with 
a  greater  Compasse  and  strength,  because  it  hath  a  double 
Wall  and  openeth  three  or  four  gates,  as  Adrianopli, 
Gratianopoli,  the  tower  gate,  etts.,  into  the  Country*',  the 


1  It  is  a  matter  for  regret  that  this  "  Httle  booke"  was  not  preserved 
with  the  author's  MS. 

2  Fr.  aspre,  It.  aspero,  lit.  '  white  money.'  A  small  silver  Turkish 
coin,  of  which  120  are  reckoned  to  the  piastre,  now  only  a  money  of 
account.     Murray,  Oxford  English  Dictionary. 

^  See  note  2  on  p.  26. 

*  For  the  complete  title  of  Gainsford's  Gloty  of  England  and  the 
full  and  correct  rendering  of  the  passages  abstracted  by  Mundy,  see 
Appendix  E. 

^  Gainsford  has  "  majesticall." 

6  For  the  twenty-five  gates  at  Constantinople,  see  Sanderson's 
Voyage  in  Purchas  His  Pilgrimes,  ed.  1625,  Part  ll.  Book  ix. 
p.  1629. 


28  VOYAGES   AND    PASSAGES   FROM   ANNO    1608 

walles  orderlie,  beautified  with  square  towers  of  hard 
stone  whose  equall  distance  makes  a  reasonable  shew : 
the  goodhest  Harbour  in  the  world,  twentie  fathom  deepe, 
close  to  the  shores  of  both  citties,  conteyning  ten  english 
miles  in  circumference  ;    much  Wast  ground  within. 

The  Seraglio  is  the  pallace  of  the  Gran  Signior  in- 
closing as  much  ground  as  St.  James  parcke :  Large 
Courts  :  Spacious  gardeins,  enbattled  walles,  stored  with 
Artillerie,  divers  manner  of  Structures,  which  indeed 
seeme  severall  pallaces,  among  whome  there  is  one  called 
a  Caska^  (or  Cheeaskee")  without  the  wall  of  the  seraglio, 
close  to  the  water  side,  where  hee  accustometh  to  take 
his  gallie  (or  Kaeeck^),  of  the  delicatest  and  rarest  presence 
that  ever  I  beheld,  for  it  is  a  quadrat  of  seven  arches  on 
a  side  cloisterwise,  like  the  Rialto  walk  in  Venice,  and  in 
the  middest  riseth  a  Core*  of  three  or  four  Roomes  with 
Chimneys  whose  mantle  trees^  are  of  silver,  curiously 
glazed,  protected  with  an  Iron  grate  all  guilt  over  most 
gloriously.  The  whole  frame  soe  set  with  Opalls,  Rubies, 
Emeralds,  burnisht  with  gold,  painted  with  flowers  and 
graced  with  Inlaid  worcke  of  porphiry,  marble,  Jett,  Jasper 
and  delicate  stones,  that  I  am  perswaded  there  is  not  such 
a  bird  cage  in  the  world.  Under  the  walles  are  stables 
for  sea  horses,  called  hippopotamie,  which  is  a  monstrous 
beast  taken  in  Nilus :  Elephants,  tigres  and  Dolphins : 
Sometimes  they  have  Crocodiles  and  Rinoceros.  Within 
are    Roebucks,  white   partridges,  and   turtles,  the   bird   of 

1  Kiosk.  Turk,  and  Pers.  kushk^  F.  kiosqiie^  a  pavilion,  villa, 
portico.  Compare  Sanderson's  Voyage  in  Pu?'chas  His  Pilgrinies^ 
Part  II.  Book  ix.  p.  1626,  "Sultan  Morat  [Murad,  Amurathj...hath 
built... two  faire  Lodgings,  or  as  we  may  say  Banqueting  Houses, 
which  they  call  Chouskes." 

2  Mundy's  interpolation. 

3  Mundy's  interpolation.  Caique,  Turk,  kdik,  the  small  skiff  used 
at  Constantinople. 

*  i.e.  a  central  building. 

^  Beams  across  the  opening  of  the  fireplaces. 


UNTILL  ANNO    162O  29 

Arabia,  and  many  beasts  and  foule  of  Aphrica  and  India. 
The  walkes  are  shaded  with  Cipresse,  Cedar,  turpentine^ 
and  trees  which  wee  only  know  by  their  names,  amongst 
such  as  afford  sustenance,  as  figgs,  almonds,  olive,  pome- 
granetts,  Lemmons,  Orenges,  and  such  like,  but  it  should 
seeme,  they  are  here  as  it  were  inforced,  and  kept  in  order 
with  extraordinary  dilligence  :  for  the  sunne  kisseth  them 
not  with  that  fervency,  as  may  make  them  large,  or  ripen 
in  their  proper  kinds. 

The  Citty  is  very  populous  towards  the  Harbour.  The 
Bisisteene^  Bashaws  houses,  mosques.  Conduits,  tombes 
and  monuments,  are  even  as  it  were  a  storehouse  of 
magnificent  worckes  :  And  when  I  read,  that  Constantine 
unplumed  Rome,  and  as  it  were  unplumed  all  the  world, 
I  cannot  find  the  perticulers  in  my  Inventory,  for  the 
Cheifest  structures  now  are  the  great  Seraglio,  the  lesser 
Seraglio,  the  Seventowres,  the  double  wall,  divers  Bashaws 
houses,  the  mosques  or  temples,  among  whome  the  Sophia, 
Soliman  and  Amurath,  are  indeed  heapes  of  Ostentation 
and  fabriques  of  great  delight,  the  Patriarchs  house ; 
certaine  balneas  or  bathes ;  aquaducts ;  Constantines 
pallace ;  and  the  towres  on  the  walles,  to  these  you 
may  adde  the  Besistene,  a  place  like  our  Exchange,  for 
varietie  of  merchandise,  markett  of  Virgins,  Selling  of 
Slaves,  doucts  under  ground  fenced  with  Iron  gates  to 
Secure  their  treasure,  to  prevent  the  fury  of  the  Janizaries, 
extremity  of  fire  and  earthquakes,  to  whose  violence  the 
Citty  is  many  tymes  Subiect. 

The  next  division  is  Gallata,  over  against  it  divided 
only  by  the  Sea. 

The  third  part  Pera : 


1  i.e.  the  pistacia  terebinthns,  which  yields  the  turpentine  known 
as  Cyprus  Turpentine,  Chian  Turpentine  and  Scio  Turpentine. 

2  Turk,  bazistan.  market. 


30  VOYAGES   AND   PASSAGES   FROM   ANNO    1608 

The  last  quarter  of  this  division  is  a  towne  in  Asia 
called  Scutaro. 

Thus  I  confesse,  if  on  the  towers  of  the  Amurata,  or 
battlements  of  the  Sophia,  you  beheld  all  at  once,  as  one 
united  body,  it  would  equall,  if  not  surpasse  London,  for 
spaciousnesse  of  ground,  Some  monuments  divers  pallaces 
and  howses  ;  but  yet  come  no  way  neare  my  satisfaction, 
for  here  is  Neither  good  lodging,  proportionable  fare,  free 
recourse,  gracious  entertainement,  true  religion,  secure 
abiding,  allowable  pleasure,  Orderly  government,  Or  any 
thing  wherein  a  Noble  citty  is  made  glorious  indeed  : 
Thus  much  for  Constantinople. 

The  author  was  there  as  I  gather  by  his  book  in 
Anno   1607.     Page  35  lib.  i.^ 

Of  Constantinople^  and  the  Serraglio,  there  is  somewhat 
said  in  the  five  foregoing  sides^,  being  the  relation  of  others ; 
but  for  my  owne  observation  I  tooke  no  perticuler  notice, 
as  elce  where  I  have  said.     Only  I  can  remember,  viz. 

Imprimis.     That  once    I   walked    alone   from   Cassum 


^  This  last  remark  is  Mundy's  own  note. 

2  Preceding  these  remarks  Mundy  quotes  extracts  from  Sandys' 
Travels.  These  he  gives,  for  the  most  part,  correctly,  without  any 
notes  or  interpolations  of  his  own.  In  many  cases,  however,  he  breaks 
off  in  the  middle  of  a  sentence  and  gives  no  hint  of  the  omission. 
Therefore,  for  the  sake  of  clearness,  the  passages  extracted  by  Mundy 
have  been  corrected  from  Sandys'  work,  and  will  be  found,  with  the 
quotations  from  Grimston  and  Gainsford,  in  Appendix  E. 

Following  the  extracts  from  Sandys,  is  a  double-page  map  of 
Turkey  and  Arabia,  with  Mundy's  sea  and  land  routes  marked  in 
red  dotted  lines.  Some  of  the  places  are  also  lettered  in  red,  and 
remarks  under  these  letters  are  found  on  the  reverse  of  the  second 
leaf.  The  map  bears  no  name  or  date,  but  contains  the  portrait  of 
Sultan  Muhammad  III.  (1596 — 1603).  On  the  reverse  of  the  first 
leaf  are  the  author's  own  comments  on  Constantinople  (added  in 
February,  1650),  which  are  now  given  in  the  text.  The  notes  on  the 
reverse  of  the  second  leaf  of  the  map  have  no  connection  with  the 
story  of  the  author's  Travels,  and,  consequently,  have  not  been 
printed. 

^  The  author  alludes  to  his  extracts  from  Grimston,  Gainsford  and 
Sandys.     See  ante,  pp.  25 — 30,  and  Appendix  E. 


UNTILL  ANNO    162O  3I 

Basha^  at  the  West  or  end  of  the  Citty,  as  farre  as  Yedee- 
cula  or  the  Seven  Towers^,  where  I  saw  the  double  wall 
(that  crosseth  over  from  the  Haven  to  the  Hellespont),  one 
within  and  higher  then  the  other,  and  a  pretty  distance 
from  each  other.  I  conceaved  them  treble,  accompting  the 
Innermost  wall  of  the  ditche  for  one,  all  compleated  with 


1  The  history  of  this  suburb,  situated  between  Constantinople  and 
Galata,  is  given  by  Evhya  Efendi,  who  was  born  in  161 1,  as  follows : — 
"  In  the  time  of  the  infidels,  Kasim  Pasha  was  a  monastery  called 
Aya  Longa,  but  Muhammad  II.  converted  it  into  a  Moslem  burying 
ground.... The  town  of  Constantinople  growing  too  narrow  for  the 
throngs  of  people,  the  great  monarch  Sultan  Sulaiman  commanded 
his  vazir,  the  conqueror  of  Napoli  (di  Romania),  Kasim  Pasha,... to 
build  the  suburb  called  now  {circ.  1631]  Kasim-pasha.     It  is  in  the 

jurisdiction  of  the  Maula  of  Galata There  are  one  thousand  and 

eighty-five  walled  houses  with  gardens."  Travels  in  Europe  etc.  in 
the  Seveftteejtth  Century,  by  Evliya  Efendi.  Eng.  trans,  ed.  1834, 
vol.  I.  Part  ii.  p.  43.  The  description  is  continued  up  to  p.  49. 
Compare  Thevenot,  Travels  into  the  Levant,  ed.  1687,  Part  i.  p.  27, 
^'  Cassum-pasha,  which  seems  to  be  a  great  Village  ;  there  by  the 
water  side  is  the  Arsenal... from  thence  you  come  to  Galata,  separated 
from  Cassumpasha  only  by  the  burying  places  that  are  betwixt  them." 
See  also  Le  Bruyn,  Voyage  au  Levant,  ed.  1725,  vol.  i.  p.  171. 

For  a  description  of  Constantinople  in  1604,  see  De  Bauveau, 
Relation  jour7taliere  du  Voyage  du  Levant,  pp.  37 — 75. 

2  The  Seven  Towers,  Yedi  Kiile,  at  the  S.W.  angle  of  Constanti- 
nople. Three  of  the  towers  have  disappeared,  and  the  whole  building 
is  now  in  a  ruinous  condition.     It  was  once  a  state  prison. 

Compare  the  following  allusions  to  this  building: — 

1596.  "A  fort  that  is  fortified  with  seven  Towers,  called  by  the 
Turkes  Jadicule... where  a  garrison  of  souldiers  is  kept."  Moryson, 
Ltinerary,  ed.  161 7,  p.  263. 

1600.  "Yedi  Cula.  The  gate  of  the  seven  Toures :  for  so  many 
there  are  together,  neere  thereunto,  built  of  the  Ottoman  Princes, 
where  it  is  said,  they  have  in  time  past  put  their  Treasure."  Sander- 
son's Voyage  in  Pitrchas  His  Pilgrimes,  Book  ix.  ch.  16,  p.  1629. 

1616.  "  Upon  the  west  corner  of  the  Citty  there  is  a  strong 
Fortresse,  fortified  with  seaven  great  Towers,  and  well  furnished 
with  munition,  called  by  Turkes  Jadileke."  Lithgow,  Painefull 
Peregrinations,  p.  135. 

1701.  "The  Seven  Towers,  now  a  prison  for  persons  of  quality... 
but  antiently  the  Porta  Janicula  of  Constantinople."  Chishull,  Travels 
in  Turkey,  p.  48. 

1810.  "Although  four  only  of  the  Seven  Towers  have  remained 
entire... the  fortress  still  retains  the  names  of  Efta-Coulades  in  the 
Greek  and  Yedi-Kouleler  in  the  Turkish  language,  both  of  them 
significant  of  the  former  number  of  its  conspicuous  bulwarks." 
Hobhouse,  Jour7iey  through  Albania,  vol.  ii.  pp.  938 — 940. 

See  also  Sandys'  description  in  Appendix  E ;  Delia  Valle,  Voyages, 
vol.  i.  p.  43 ;  Thdvenot,  Travels  i?ito  the  Levant,  Part  i.  p.  20. 


32  VOYAGES   AND   PASSAGES   FROM   ANNO    1608 

battlements  and  towers^  In  the  said  wall  I  saw  an  arche 
made  or  dambd  upp.  They  say  on  this  occasion  : — That 
it  was  the  gate  by  which  the  Citty  was  entred  and  Won 
from  the  Christains,  and  that  there  is  a  Prophecy  among- 
the  turcks  that  it  shall  bee  lost  againe  by  the  said  gate^. 

Secondly:    I  was  with  others  at  Atmaidan,  Hippodrom 
or  Horseplace^,  to  see  the  gran  signior,  Sultan  Achmet, 

^  The  author  was  right  in  his  first  surmise.  The  Hne  of  defence 
was  a  triple  wall  with  a  double  row  of  towers.  The  walls  were  erected 
by  Constantine  the  Great,  and  were  partly  rebuilt  by  Theodosius  and 
his  successors. 

Compare  the  description  by  Evliya  Efendi,  Travels  in  Europe, 
vol.  I.  Part  i.  p.  11  f,  who  says  (in  1634),  "This  triple  row  of  walls 
still  exists,  and  is  strengthened  by  1225  towers."  He  adds,  however, 
that  the  masonry  had  fallen  into  such  decay  that  "  waggons  might  be 
anywhere  driven  through  the  walls."  These  ravages  were  repaired 
in '1635. 

For  the  accounts  of  other  travellers,  see  Sandys'  Travels  in 
Appendix  E ;  Delia  Valle,  Voyages,  vol.  i.  p.  25 ;  Th^venot,  Travels 
into  the  Levant,  Part  i.  p.  20;  Tournefort,  Voyage  i?ito  the  Levant, 
ed.  1718,  vol.  i.  p.  349;  Hobhouse,  Journey  through  Albania,  vol.  ii. 
PP-  936—937- 

2  The  Turks  gained  an  entrance  into  Constantinople,  in  1453,  by 
the  Wooden  or  Circus  Gate,  which  had  been  walled  up  for  two 
centuries  previously,  on  account  of  an  ancient  prophecy,  and  reopened 
during  the  siege  for  the  purposes  of  a  sortie.  It  was,  however,  the 
Golden  Gate  that  was  walled  up  by  the  invaders,  in  consequence  of  a 
superstition  that  through  it  the  future  conquerors  of  Constantinople 
should  enter  the  city.  For  a  similar  Turkish  prophecy  with  regard  to 
the  Golden  Gate  at  Jerusalem,  see  Purchas  His  Pilgrimes,  Book  viii. 
ch.  8,  p.  1324. 

^  At-maidan.  Compare  the  description  of  John  Sanderson  in 
1602,  Purchas  His  Pilgri7nes,  Book  ix.  ch.  16,  p.  1627: — "The 
greatest  and  most  famous  spacious  place  of  the  Citie  is  that  which 
in  time  past  of  the  Greeks  was  called  Hippodromo,  and  now  of  the 
Turkes  Atmaidan,  which  is  as  much  as  to  say,  both  in  the  one  and 
the  other  Language,  running  of  Horses,  for  there  they  did  and  doe 
runne  them.  In  time  past  it  hath  been  much  more  greate,  but  the 
many  Palaces  (that  divers  great  men  in  processe  of  time  have  built) 
hath  lessened  it." 

Compare  also  Grimston's  description,  History  of  the  Iniperiall 
State  of  the  Grand  Seignieurs,  p.  76: — "The  Hippodrome  is  a  great 
place  in  Constantinople,  about  fourscore  fathome  long  and  fortie 
broad,  artificially  built  upon  a  great  number  of  Pillars  and  Arches 
which  support  it  strongly,  and  keepe  it  from  drowning  by  the  waters 
of  the  Sea,  which  run  under  it,  by  certaine  Channels  which  give  it 
entry:  It  was  the  ancient  mannage  and  course  for  Horses  as  the 
word  doth  signifie....This  place  is  called  at  this  day  Atmeidon,  that  is 
to  say  Mannage." 

For  other  accounts  of  the  At-maiddn,  see  the  extract  from  Sandys' 


UNTILL  ANNO    162O  33 

ride  in  pomp  to  one  of  his  Mosques  or  Church  :  Where 
among  other  monuments  I  remember  I  saw  three  brasen 
serpents  wreathed  together^ :  allsoe  another  Hke  a  pira- 
midis^. 


Travels  in  Appendix  E.  See  also  Delia  Valle,  Voyages^  vol.  i.  p.  37  f. ; 
Thevenot,  T?-avels  hito  the  Levant^  Part  i.  p.  22  ;  Tournefort,  Voyage 
ijito  the  Levajtt,  vol.  i.  p.  361  ;  Le  Bruyn,  Voyage  au  Levant^  vol.  i. 
p.  158;  Hobhouse,  yi9Z/r;z^  through  Albania^  vol.  ii.  p.  950  f. 

^  The  column  of  the  Three  Serpents,  said  to  have  formerly  sup- 
ported the  golden  tripod  of  the  priestess  of  Apollo  of  Delphi. 

Compare  the  following  accounts  of  this  column  : — 

1594.  "This  Piazza  hath  also  another  Pillar... of  Brasse  made 
with  marvellous  art  in  forme  of  three  Serpents  wreathed  together  with 
their  mouthes  upwards,  which  is  said,  was  made  to  inchant  the  Ser- 
pents that  on  a  time  molested  the  Citie."  Voyage  of  John  Sanderson 
in  Picrchas  His  Pilgrinies,  Book  ix.  ch.  16,  p.  1627. 

161 5.  "A  bronze  column  composed  of  three  Serpents  of  the  same 
metal  interlaced  with  each  other,  whose  three  heads  extend  beyond 
the  summit  forming,  instead  of  a  capital,  a  regular  triangle.  The 
tales  of  the  old  wives  aver  that  this  column  was  made  by  a  Magician, 
and  that  by  the  enchantment  with  which  he  endowed  it,  the  town  was 
freed  from  the  number  of  Serpents  which  then  infested  it."  Delia 
Valle,  Voyages^  vol.  i.  p.  38  (translated  from  the  French). 

1634.  "On  the  wonderful  Talismans  within  and  without  Kostan- 
tineh... Seventeenth  talisman.  A  sage  named  Surendeh,  who  flourished 
in  the  days  of  error,  under  King  Puzentin,  set  up  a  brazen  image  of  a 
triple-headed  dragon  {azhderhd)  in  the  Atmaidan,  in  order  to  destroy 
all  serpents,  lizards,  scorpions,  and  such  like  poisonous  reptiles  :  and 
not  a  poisonous  beast  was  there  in  the  whole  of  Makedoniyyah. 
It  has  now  the  form  of  a  twisted  serpent,  measuring  ten  cubits  above 
and  as  many  below  the  ground.  It  remained  thus  buried  in  mud  and 
earth  from  the  building  of  Sultan  Ahmed's  mosque,  but  uninjured,  till 
Selim  II,,  surnamed  the  drunken,  passing  by  on  horseback,  knocked 
off  with  his  mace  the  lower  jaw  of  that  head  of  the  dragon  which  looks 
to  the  west.  Serpents  then  made  their  appearance  on  the  western 
side  of  the  city,  and  since  that  time  have  become  common  in  every 
part  of  it.  If,  moreover,  the  remaining  heads  should  be  destroyed, 
Istambol  will  be  completely  eaten  up  with  vermin."  Evliya  Efendi, 
Travels  in  Europe^  vol.  I.  Part  i.  p.  19.  Tournefort,  Voyage  into  the 
Levant,  vol.  i.  p.  380,  says  that  the  two  remaining  heads  were  taken 
away  in  1700. 

See  also  Sandys'  Travels,  ed.  1673,  P-  27;  Thevenot,  Travels  into 
the  Levant,  ed.  1687,  Part  i.  p.  22  ;  Chishull,  Travels  in  Turkey,  p.  41  ; 
Le  Bruyn,  Voyage  au  Levattt,  vol.  i.  p.  158. 

^  The  author  refers  to  the  Egyptian  Pyramid  set  up  by  Constantine 
to  mark  the  goal  in  the  chariot  races.  Compare  the  description  of  the 
column  by  Tournefort,  Voyage  into  the  Levant,  vol.  i.  p.  379 :  "  The- 
Obelisk  of  Granate  or  Thebaick  Stone  is  still  in  the  Atmeidan :  it  is; 
a  four-corner'd  Pyramid,  of  one  single  Piece,  about  fifty  foot  high,  ter- 
minating in  a  Point,  charg'd  with  Hieroglyphicks,  now  unintelligible."' 

See  also  for  other  accounts,  Voyage  of  John  Sanderson  in  Purchas 


34  VOYAGES   AND   PASSAGES   FROM   ANNO    1608 

Thirdly :  I  walked  another  tyme  alone  as  farre  as 
Aurat  Bazar,  or  the  market  of  Weomen^  and  there  I  saw 
the  Historicall  pillarl 

Fourthly :  I  saw  another  High  columne  of  marbled 
It  stoode  (as  I  take  it)  towards  the  Haven,  bound  about 


His  Pilgrinies,  Book  ix.  ch.  16,  p.  1627  ;  Delia  Valle,  Voyages^  vol.  i. 
p.  y]  ;  Thevenot,  Travels  into  the  Levant^  Part  i.  p.  22 ;  Dumont, 
A  New  Voyage  to  the  Levant^  p.  151;  Le  Bruyn,  Voyages  au  Levant^ 
vol.  i.  pp.  158 — 159  ;  Chishull,  Travels  in  Turkey^  p.  40. 

^  Avret-bazar,  about  one  mile  west  of  the  Hippodrome.  The 
district  is  still  so  called. 

"A  large  and  spacious  place... towards  the  Port  of  Selimbria, 
called  by  the  Turkes  Aurat  Bazar  (which  is  as  much  to  say,  the 
market  place  of  women,  for  thither  they  come  to  sell  their  Workes 
and  Wares)."  Voyage  of  John  Sanderson  in  Purchas  His  Pilgrimes, 
Book  ix.  ch.  16,  p.  1629. 

^  So  called  from  the  military  scenes  sculptured  on  its  base.  The 
pedestal  now  only  remains. 

Compare  the  description  of  the  Historical  Column  by  Busbequius 
(Busbek)  in  1555,  Ti'avels  into  Turkey^  p.  49,  "Constantinople  doth 
gratifie  us  with  the  Sight  of  two  memorable  Pillars;  One... in  the 
Forum,  called  by  the  Turks,  Aurat-basar,  i.e.  The  Womens  Court, 
wherein,  from  Bottom  to  Top,  is  engraven  the  History  of  a  certain 
Expedition  of  one  Arcadius,  who  built  it,  and  whose  Statue,  for  a  long 
time,  stood  on  the  Top  of  it.  And  yet  it  may  rather  be  called  a 
Stair-case,  than  a  Pillar,  because  it  goes  winding  up  like  a  Pair  of 
Stairs." 

Evliya  Efendi  in  his  account  "  of  the  wonderful  Talismans  within 
and  without  Kostantineh,"  Travels  in  Etu^ope,  vol.  I.  Part  i.  p.  16, 
gives  the  following  interesting  legend  in  connection  with  the  Historical 
Column  : — "  First  talisman.  In  the  Avret-Bazari  (female  slave- 
market),  there  is  a  lofty  column  (the  pillar  of  Arcadius)  of  white 
marble,  inside  of  which  there  is  a  winding  staircase.  On  the  outside 
of  it,  figures  of  the  soldiers  of  various  nations,  Hindustanies,  Kur- 
distanies,  and  Multanies,  whom  Yanko  ibn  Madiyan  vanquished, 
were  sculptured  by  his  command  ;  and  on  the  summit  of  it  there  was 
anciently  a  fairy-cheeked  female  figure  of  one  of  the  beauties  of  the 
age,  which  once  a  year  gave  a  sound,  on  which  many  hundred 
thousand  kinds  of  birds,  after  flying  round  and  round  the  image,  fell 
down  to  the  earth,  and  being  caught  by  the  people  of  Rum  (Romelia), 
provided  them  with  an  abundant  meal.  Afterwards,  in  the  age  of 
Kostantin,  the  monks  placed  bells  on  the  top  of  it,  in  order  to  give  an 
alarm  on  the  approach  of  an  enemy :  And  subsequently,  at  the  birth 
of  the  Prophet,  there  was  a  great  earthquake,  by  which  the  statue  and 
all  the  bells  on  the  top  of  the  pillar  were  thrown  down  topsy-turvy, 
and  the  column  itself  iDroken  in  pieces  :  but,  having  been  formed  by 
talismanic  art,  it  could  not  be  entirely  destroyed,  and  part  of  it 
remains  an  extraordinary  spectacle  to  the  present  day." 

^  The  Burnt  Column  (Jemberli  Tash). 


UNTILL  ANNO    1620  35 

in  Severall  places  with  Hoopes  or  bands  of  Iron^  by 
reason  that  tyme  had  weakned  and  dissolved  the  very 
veines  of  it,  soe  that  it  appeared  with  great  Crackes  in 
sundry  parts,  and,  but  for  those  bands,  would  fall  and 
occasion  much  Hurt  either  to  men  or  buildings^. 

FiftJily :  I  was  allsoe  in  Sancta  Sophia^  and  other 
Turkish  Mosques^ 

Sixtly :    I    was   in    the   serraglio^   within    the   second 

1  The  author  is  alluding  to  the  copper  bands  covering  the  joints  of 
the  several  pieces  of  porphyry  of  which  the  column  is  composed. 

2  Compare  Busbequius,  Travels  itito  Turkey^  p.  49,  "The... Pillar, 
over  against  the  House  the  German  Ambassadors  used  to  lodge  in, 
the  whole  Structure,  besides  the  Basis  and  the  Chapiter,  consists  of 
eight  solid  Marble  {sic)  of  Red  Porphyry  Stones,  so  curiously  joined 
together,  that  they  seem  but  one  continued  Stone.  For,  where  the 
Stones  are  jointed  one  into  Another,  upon  that  Commissure,  there  is 
wrought  a  circular  Garland  of  Lawrels  round  about  the  Pillar,  which 
hides  the  jointing  so  that  they  which  look  upon  it  from  the  Ground, 
perceive  no  jointing  at  all.  That  pillar  hath  been  so  often  shaken  by 
Earthquakes,  and  so  battered  by  Fires  happening  near  it,  that  it  is 
cleft  in  many  Places,  and  they  are  forced  to  bind  it  about  with  Iron 
Hoops,  that  it  may  not  fall  to  pieces." 

Compare  also  the  description  of  Evliya  Efendi,  Travels  in  Europe, 
vol.  I.  Part  i.  pp.  16, 17,  "  Second  talisman.  In  the  Tauk-Bazar  (poultry- 
market)  there  is  a  needle-like  column  (the  pillar  of  Theodosius)  formed 
of  many  pieces  of  red  emery  {siinipdreh)  stone,  and  a  hundred  royal 
cubits  \zird  Jiialiki)  high.  This  was  damaged  in  the  earthquake 
which  occurred  in  the  two  nights  during  which  the  Pride  of  the 
World  was  called  into  existence;  but  the  builders  girt  it  round  with 
iron  hoops,  as  thick  as  a  man's  thigh,  in  forty  places,  so  that  it  is  still 
firm  and  standing.  It  was  erected  a  hundred  and  forty  years  before 
the  era  of  Iskender,  and  Kostantin  placed  a  talisman  on  the  top  of  it 
in  the  form  of  a  starling,  which  once  a  year  clapped  his  wings,  and 
brought  all  the  birds  in  the  air  to  the  place,  each  with  three  olives  in 
his  beak  and  talons." 

2  Erected  in  a.d.  325,  burnt  down  in  404,  rebuilt  in  415,  again 
burnt  in  532,  once  again  rebuilt  by  Justinian  in  538  and  restored  by 
him  in  568.  For  a  long  and  detailed  description  of  the  Mosque  of 
St  Sophia  and  the  many  marvels  worked  within  its  precincts,  see 
Evliya  Efendi,  Travels  in  Europe,  vol.  i.  Part  i.  pp.  55 — 65.  See  also 
Busbequius,  Travels  into  Turkey,  p.  46 ;  Sanderson,  Voyage,  in  Purchas 
His  Pilgrimes,  Book  ix.  ch.  16,  pp.  16 — 26;  Yioh\vo\!i's,&,Jour7iey  through 
Albania,  vol.  ii.  pp.  968  ff. 

*  e.g.  the  Mosques  of  Bajazet  II.  [Bayazid],  Sellm  I.,  Sulaiman, 
Ahmad,  etc. 

^  i.e.  the  Palace  of  the  Osmanli  Sultans.  Evliya  Efendi,  in  his 
description  of  the  Seraglio,  Travels  in  Europe,  vol.  I.  Part  i.  pp.  49,  50, 
says,  "  Sultan   Muhammad  surrounded  this  strongly  fortified  palace 

3—2 


36  VOYAGES   AND   PASSAGES   FROM   ANNO    1608 

courts  at  the  tyme  Sir  Paul  Pindar  was  to  come  for 
England  and  Sir  Jno.  Eires  was  com  over  to  supply  his 
place  of  Embassador^,  when  both  of  them  went  to  kisse 
the  gran  signiors  Hand  or  sleeve,  the  former  to  take  his 
leave  and  the  latter  to  bee  admitted  in  his  roome.  Where 
the  present  brought  by  the  new  Embassador  was  laid  to 
the  open  view  of  all  men  (on  the  greene)^  Then  was  there 
a  turkish  bankett,  or  meal,  prepared  for  the  attendants 
(on    the    floore)*,    with    which    wee    had    noe    sooner   don, 


with  a  wall  that  had  366  towers,  and  12,000  battlements;  its  circum- 
ference being  6,500  paces,  with  16  gates,  great  and  small.... There  was 
no  harem  in  this  palace ;  but  one  was  built  afterwards,  in  the  time  of 
Sultan  Sulaiman."  See  also  the  accounts  by  Gainsford  and  Sandys 
in  Appendix  E  ;  and  Tavernier,  Collections  of  Travels,  ed.  1684, 
vol.  ii.,  "A  new  Relation  of  the  inner  part  of  the  Grand  Seignor's 
Seraglio,"  pp.   i — 91. 

1  The  Arz-oda,  Hall  of  Audience,  erected  by  Muhammad  II. 
In  this  enclosure  all  great  ceremonials  took  place. 

Tavernier,  in  his  description  referred  to  in  the  previous  note,  has 
a  chapter,  pp.  35 — 43,  "  Of  the  Hall  wherein  the  Grand  Seignor  gives 
Audience  to  Forein  Ambassadors,  and  the  manner  how  they  are 
receiv'd."  He,  however,  places  the  Hall  in  the  third  court  of  the 
Seraglio. 

^  See  p.  23,  and  Appendix  D. 

3  "  Dans  le  mesme  temps  que  le  Grand  Seigneur  fait  les  presents, 
on  estalle  ceux  des  Ambassadeurs."     Du  Loir,  Voyages,  p.  84. 

*  Compare  the  account  of  "  Ambassadours  entertaynment  and 
audience  in  The  Grand  Signiors  Serraglio"  by  Master  Robert  Withers 
in  Put'chas  His  Pilgrijnes,  Book  ix.  ch.  15,  p.  1585,  "When  it  falleth 
out  that  an  Ambassadour  from  any  great  King  is  to  kisse  the  Grand 
Signiors  hand,  it  must  be  either  upon  a  Sunday  or  upon  a  Tuesday... 
and  then  the  Vizier  commandeth  that  there  be  a  great  Divan,  which 
is,  by  calling  together  all  the  Great  men  of  the  Port... who  are... 
commanded... to  go  every  one  to  his  ordinary  place  in  the  second 
Court,  and  there  to  stand  in  orderly  rankes...the  Ambassadour... is  set 
face  to  face  close  before  the  chiefe  Vizier  upon  a  stoole  covered  with 
cloth  of  gold ;  and  having  for  a  while  complimented  and  used  some 
pleasant  discourse  together,  the  Bashaw  commandeth  that  the  dinner 
bee  brought.... And  so  the  Ambassadour,  and  the  chiefe  Vizier,  with 
one  or  two  of  the  other  Bashawes  doe  eate  together.. ..They  having 
dined,  the  Vizier  entertayneth  the  Ambassadour  with  some  discourse 
till  such  time  as  the  Ambassadours  people  have  also  dined.... And  then 
the  Ambassadour  is  called  by  the  Master  of  the  Ceremonies,  by  whom 
hee  is  brought  to  the  Gate,  whereat  the  Capi  Agha  \kdpi  dgha,  chief 
door-keeper]  standeth  with  a  ranke  of  Eunuches,  which  Capi  Agha 
leadeth  him  to  the  doore  of  the  Roome  where  there  doe  stand  two 
Capoochee  Bashees  \_kdpiji-bds/ii,  chamberlain]   ready,  who  take  the 


UNTILL   ANNO    162O  37 

but  our  attendants  (turcks)  fell  to  scambling  and  catchinge 
of  what  was  left,  that,  in  a  manner,  they  tumbled  one  over 
the  others  Nose  in  a  platter  of  Peelaw\  perhaps ! 

Seve7ithly  :  I  have  bin  in  their  bathes"  and  besistenes^ 
Christians  churches^  and  Jewish  sinagogues'^:  allso  in  the 
old  pallace  of  Constantine",  where,  among  other  a[nimals], 
I  saw  a  terrible  great  lyon  {somwhat  tame)  playing  with  a 
little  dog. 

Eightly:    Concerning    the    Haven.      It    is    soe    Secure 

Ambassadour,  the  one  by  one  arme,  and  the  other  by  the  other,  and 
so  leade  him  to  kisse  his  Highnesse  hand." 
See  also  Du  Loir,  Voyages^  pp.  82 — 89. 

1  Pilau.  Delia  Valle,  Voyages,  vol.  i.  p.  in,  gives  a  similar  de- 
scription of  the  behaviour  of  the  attendants  at  a  banquet  given  to  the 
French  Ambassador.     See  also  Du  Loir,  Voyages,  p.  85. 

2  For  the  principal  baths  of  Constantinople,  vi'ith  their  names,  see 
Evliya  Efendi,  Travels  in  Europe,  vol.  I.  Part  i.  pp.  179 — 181.  He 
estimates  the  number  of  public  baths  in  1634  as  over  three  hundred. 
See  also  Delia  Valle,  Voyages,  vol.  i.  p.  45,  and  Thevenot,  Travels  into 
the  Leva?it,  Part  i.  p.  31  f. 

^  See  p.  29.  Compare  the  Voyage  of  John  Sanderson  in  Piirchas 
His  Pilg7'imes,  Book  ix.  ch.  16,  p.  1628,  "There  is  in  the  chiefest 
places  for  Traffique  of  the  Citie,  two  Basistans,  which  are  certayne 
Buildings  four  square,  high,  and  made  round  at  the  top,  in  the  forme 
of  great  Lodges  covered,  each  of  which  have  foure  Gates,  opening 
upon  foure  streets,  round  about  garnished  with  shops  stuffed  with  all 
rare  and  exquisite  Merchandize." 

*  See  p.  25.  Compare  the  Voyage  of  John  Sanderson  in  Purchas 
His  Pilgrimes,  Book  ix.  ch.  16,  p.  1627,  "The  Patriarch  of  Greeks, 
Meleto...told  me  that  there  is  in  Constantinople  one  hundred  Christian 
Churches,  most  assuredly  within  the  citie  and  Suburbs;  I  take  it  there 
are  more." 

^  See  p.  25. 

"  Compare  the  following  allusions  to  Constantine's  Palace : 

"  The  ruines  of  a  Pallace  upon  the  very  wals  of  the  City  called  the 
Pallace  of  Constantine,  wherein  I  did  see  an  Eliphant."  Moryson, 
Itinerary,  p.  263. 

"  On  the  first  Hill  is  to  bee  seene,  beginning  from  the  West 
towards  the  Port  of  Andranople,  a  fragment  standing  in  memory  of 
the  old  Emperiall  Palace  with  certayne  Galaries,  wast  roomes,  and 
pillers  within  it  selfe,  doth  well  shew  the  great  power  of  Time,  the 
destroyer  and  overthrower  of  all,  that  a  Prince  of  the  world  his  Palace 
is  now  become  a  Lodge  for  Elephants,  Panthars,  and  other  Beasts." 
Sanderson,  Voyage,  in  Purchas  His  Pilgrimes,  Book  ix.  ch.  16,  p.  1625. 

"At  the  third  Angle,  which  is  at  the  bottom  of  the  Port,  on  the 
Land  side,  are  the  Ruines  of  Constantine's  Palace."  Thdvenot, 
Travels  into  the  Leiuint,  Part  i.  p.  20 


38  VOYAGES   AND   PASSAGES   FROM   ANNO    1608 

from  winds  and  soe  commodious  deepe,  even  to  the  very 
shore,  that  our  EngHsh  shipps  lay  their  broad  sides  to  the 
Custom  house  key^,  which  is  so  contrived,  the  outer  part 
next  the  shippes  much  higher  then  the  other,  soe  that  the 
goods  which  they  discharge,  as  balles  of  Cloath,  barills  of 
tynne,  Spicery,  etts.,  is  with  Httle  labour  conveyed  in  to 
the  said  Custom  house,  there  beeing  farre  more  imported 
then  exported,  otherwise  little  advantage.  Venetian 
Argosies,  or  shippes,  lay  their  Stemmes  on  the  Dunghills 
on  Galata  side.  Here  are  a  multitude  of  peramees^  or 
ferriboat,  sundry  sorts  of  other  vessells,  among  the  rest  a 
CaramsalP,  built  of  such  a  forme,  that  I  have  heard  Sea- 
men say  that  their  sternes  were  Neare  as  high  as  the 
Mayne  topp  of  their  great  shipps. 


1  Compare  Moryson,  Itmerary,  p.  263,  "  The  Haven  will  receive 
an  huge  number  of  Shippes,  and  upon  bothe  the  bankes  of  the  City 
and  Galata,  shippes  of  five  hundred  tunnes  or  greater,  once  unloaded, 
may  so  lie  with  their  Cables  fastened  on  the  Land,  as  they  can  passe 
from  the  shippes  to  Land  without  any  boates."  See  also  Sandys' 
account  of  the  Haven  in  Appe7idix  E  and  Thevenot,  Voyage  into  the 
Levant^  Part  i.  p.  19. 

2  Transit  boats,  modern  Greek  Trepafx,  a  passage,  pass,  strait,  a 
boat. 

Compare  the  following  allusions  to  this  kind  of  boat : — 

1597.  "I...hyred  a  boat  called  Pyrame."  Moryson,  Itinerary, 
p.  266. 

1610.  "On  the  other  side  of  the  Haven  (continually  crossed  by 
multitudes  of  little  Boats  called  Permagies,  and  rowed  for  the  most 
part  by  Egj^ptians)."     Sandys,  Travels,  p.  30. 

1614.  "Little  boats... called  Perames,  sometimes  with  two,  some- 
times with  four  oars."     Delia  Valle,  Voyages,  vol.  i.  p.  26. 

1640.  "  On  y  va  (de  I'un  a  I'autre  bord  du  port  de  Constantinople) 
parde  petites  nasselles  qu'ils  appellent  Permez  faites  a  peu  prez  comma 
sont  les  gondolles  de  Venise;  mais  plus  legeres  encore."  Du  Loir, 
Voyages,  p.  67. 

1655.  "There  are  on  both  sides  a  great  many  Caiques  and 
Permes,  which  will  carry  you  over  for  a  very  small  matter.... Permes 
are  little  shght  Boats  or  Wherries,  and  so  ticklish,  that  by  leaning 
more  to  one  side  than  another,  it  is  an  easie  matter  to  overset  them."" 
Thevenot,  Travels  into  the  Levant,  Part  i.  p.  27. 

1 8 10.  "  Peramidias,  or  small  wherries,  which  ply  upon  the  canal." 
Hobhouse,  yf/zr/z^j/  through  Albania,  vol.  ii.  p.  955. 

^  Caramoussal,  carmousal,  Turk,  qaramusal,  a  kind  of  ship ; 
It.  caraniussale,  a  Turkish  merchantman,  a  Turkish  ship  with  a  very 
high  poop.    See  Murray,  Oxford  English  Dictionary,  s.v.  Caramoussal. 


UNTILL   ANNO    162O  39 

Ninthly :  I  was  at  Tophana^,  or  place  of  Artillery, 
where  I  saw  a  multitude  of  Ordnance  lying  on  the  ground, 
amon[g]  the  rest  one  with  three  bores,  and  another  whose 
bore  was  twelve  of  my  spannes,  within  which  I  have  com- 
puted is  Near  thirty  inches,  or  two  and  a  half  feet 
Diameter^ 

TentJily  and  lastly :  There  hapned  at  my  beeing  thear 
three  terrible  accidents  :  a  Small  earthquake^  a  fearfuU 
fire^   which    by    report    consumed    about    four    thousand 


^  i.e.  the  Top-khdna.  Evliya  Efendi,  Travels  iti  Europe.,  vol.  I. 
Part  ii.  pp.  54 — 62,  has  a  long  description  of  the  Top-khdna  and  of 
the  suburb  to  which  it  gave  its  name.  Of  the  foundation,  he  says  as 
follows,  p.  54,  "  Top-khanah,  in  the  time  of  the  Infidels,  was  a  convent 
situated  in  the  middle  of  a  forest :  this  is  the  mosque  called  the 
mosque  of  Jehanglr:  as  it  was  dedicated  to  Saint  Alexander,  the 
Infidels  visit  it  once  every  year  on  the  feast  of  this  Saint.... Thus 
the  foundation  of  Top-khanah  is  carried  back  to  Alexander[?]. 
Muhammad  11.  built  here  the  gunfoundery  and  Bayazid  II.  enlarged 
it,  and  added  the  barracks." 

Compare  Thevenot,  Voyage  into  the  Levant.,  Part  i.  p.  27,  "  Tophana 
lies  upon  the  Rivers  side  over  against  the  Serraglio :  It  is  called 
Tophana,  that  is  to  say,  the  House  of  Cannon,  because  it  is  the  place 
where  Guns  and  other  Pieces  of  Artillery  are  cast,  and  that  gives  the 
name  to  all  that  Quarter,  which  is  a  kind  of  little  Town."  See  also 
Delia  Valle,  Voyages.,  vol.  i.  p.  26. 

2  "In  the  yeare  1605. ..a  French  gentleman  presumed  to  tell 
[count]  the  artillery  and  canons  before  the  Topinaw  as  they  lay  by 
the  sea  shore."     Gainsford,  Glory  of  England,  p.  197. 

^  Compare  Thevenot,  Voyage  into  the  Levatit,  Part  i.  p.  19,  "This 
town  (Constantinople)  is  so  subject  to  Earthquakes,  that  I  have  felt 
two  in  one  night."     See  also  note  4. 

*  Compare  the  following  allusions  to  the  prevalence  of  fires  at 
Constantinople  in  the  sixteenth  and  seventeenth  centuries : — 

"  The  Citie  of  Constantinople  in  time  past  had  eleven  gates.... But 
the  continuall  fires,  the  many  Earthquakes... overthrew  the  famous 
Ancient  wall."  Sanderson,  Voyage.,  in  Purchas  His  Pilgrinies,  Book  ix. 
ch.  16,  p.  1628  f 

"  In  Constantinople  there  have  happened  many  fearefuU  fires... and 
now  lately  in  the  yeare  1607,  October  14,  there  were  burned  above 
three  thousand  houses."     Lithgow,  Painefull  Peregriitations,  p.  138. 

Purchas,  Pilgrimage,  p.  289,  mentions  an  extensive  fire  at  Con- 
stantinople in  1606,  and,  on  p.  295,  he  alludes  to  the  portents  at  the 
end  of  the  reign  of  Sultan  Ahmad,  "  First  they  were  astonished  at  a 
blazing  Comet,  secondly  they  were  affrighted  at  a  great  fire  hapning 
amongst  the  Jewes,  which  they  presaged  ominous.  Thirdly  a  sore 
Earth  quake  made  their  hearts  quake  for  feare.  The  Sea  also 
swelled  extraordinarily.     And  a  great  dearth  hapned." 

Thevenot,  Voyage  into  the  Levant,  Part  i.  p.  26,  remarks,  "  As  to 


40    VOYAGES  AND  PASSAGES,  ANNO  1608  UNTILL  ANNO  162O 

houses,  beeing  Most  small  shoppes  or  boothes  of  boards  ; 
and  a  Mortell  plague  of  pestilence \  which  at  the  highest 
consumed  above  one  thousand  a  day  in  that  Citty^ :  from 
which  evills  and  all  others,  good  Lord  deliver  us.     Amen=*. 


the  Houses  of  Constantinople,  they  are  very  ordinary,  and  almost  all 
of  Wood,  which  is  the  cause  that  when  Fires  happen,  as  they  do  very 
often,  they  make  great  havock  amongst  them,  especially  if  a  wind 
blow :  there  were  three  Fires  in  Constantinople  in  the  space  of  eight 
months  that  I  sojourned  there;  the  first... burnt  down  eight  thousand 
Houses.. ..In  the  time  cf  Sultan  Amurat,  such  a  fire  raged  there  for 
three  days,  as  ruined  one  half  of  the  Town." 

^  See  Moryson,  Itinerary^  p.  265,  and  Delia  Valle,  Voyages,  vol.  i. 
p.  49  f. 

Compare  Du  Loir,  Voyages,  p.  34,  "  Cette  ville  (Constantmople)  est 
tellement  afifiigee  de  la  peste  qu'il  arrive  quelque  fois  que  par  una 
seule  porte  on  enleve  plus  de  mille  personnes  mortes  en  un  seul  jour." 

2  Evliya  Efendi  regarded  the  heavy  loss  of  life  from  plague,  fire  or 
earthquake  with  great  equanimity.  He  casually  remarks.  Travels  in 
Eurohe,  vol.  I.  Part  i.  p.  23,  "  Istambol  is  so  vast  a  city  that  if  a 
thousand  die  in  it,  the  want  of  them  is  not  felt  in  such  an  ocean  of 
men." 

3  This  concludes  the  Author's  Siipplenient  to  Relation  I. 


Sern  Vol    17. 


Compiled    for    the    HaJduyl    Societr 


Jolm    Baxtholomew  iCo..l907 


RELATION    II. 

A  Journey  overland  from  Constantinople  to  London, 
begun  the  6th.  May  anno  i620\ 

The  Honourable  Paule  Pindar,  Ambassador  from  the 
Kinge  of  Create  Brittaine  unto  the  Gran  Signior,  haveinge 
bene  resident  there  eight  yeares  and  eight  monethes^, 
began  his  Journey  for  England  the  day  abovesaid  in  the 
morninge,  haveinge  taken  his  leave  of  Sir  John  Eyres* 
(lately  come  over  to  remaine  in  his  place),  departed  from 
his  howse  att  Pera  by  Constantinople^  there  going  with 
him  for  England  these  persons  followinge  vizt.,  Mr.  Paule 
Pindar  (Cousin  to  my  Lord)^,  Mr.  Cary  Davis'',  Mr.  Anthony 
Wilson',  Mr.  Richard  Castleman^  Mr.  Farnam  Beamond^ 

1  The  title  oi  Relation  II.  in  the  British  Museum  copy,  Hart.  MS., 
2286,  is: — "A  Journey  overland  from  Constantinople  to  London  in 
companie  with  the  Honourable  Paul  Pindar,  Ambassador  from  the 
Kinge  of  Great  Brittaine  unto  the  Gran  Seignior,  haveinge  bene 
resident  there  eight  yeares  and  eight  Monethes,  begunn  his  Journey 
for  England  the  6th.  of  May  Anno   1620." 

2  From  161 1  to  1619,  see  Appettdix  D. 

^  Sir  John  Eyre  was  appointed  in  1619,  arrived  in  1620,  was 
recalled  in  1621,  and  was  succeeded  by  Sir  Thomas  Roe  in  1622, 
Mr  John  Chapman  acting  in  the  interval. 

*  See  note  2  on  p.  22. 

5  Paul  Pindar  Junior  was  admitted  to  the  freedom  of  the  Levant 
Company  on  the  ist  July,  1619.  State  Papers,  Foreign  Archives, 
vol.  148,  p.  31. 

^  I  have  not  succeeded  in  finding  any  extraneous  reference  to  these 
individuals. 

''  Anthony  Wilson  was  admitted  to  the  freedom  of  the  Levant 
Company  on  the  5th  February,  1620.  State  Papers,  Foreign  Archives, 
vol.  148,  p.  47. 

8  Admitted  to  the  freedom  of  the  Company  24th  November,  1620. 
State  Papers,  Foreign  Archives,  vol.  148,  p.  45. 


42  A  JOURNEY   OVERLAND 

Mr.  Lawrence  Spike\  Mr.  Richard  Lane^  and  Mr.  Robert 
Withers^  (attendants),  Mr.  Sealed  Signer  Coprian^,  Signer 
Dominico    (Druggarman^),    Henry    Faro    (taylour),    John 


^  In  March  1628,  Lawrence  Spike  was  recommended  by  Sir  Allen 
Apsley  as  a  purser  for  the  Mary  Rose  or  any  other  ship.  Calettdar  of 
State  Papers^  Domestic  Series,  1628 — 1629,  p.  46. 

2  In  February,  1628,  a  warrant  was  issued  for  Letters  of  Marque  to 
the  Sa/naritan  of  Dartmouth,  owners,  Richard  Lane  and  others.  In 
1 63 1  Richard  Lane  refused  to  pay  a  bill  drawn  on  him  for  merchandize 
supplied  to  his  son,  John  Lane,  on  the  plea  that  the  Creditor,  Adrian 
Payes,  was  an  "alien  enemy."  The  case  was  referred  to  Sir  John 
Wolstanholme,  etc.,  in  February,  1632,  and  quashed.  See  Calendar 
of  State  Papers,  Domestic  Series,  under  dates,  7th  February,  1628, 
30th  December,  163 1,  and  14th  February,  1632. 

^  I  have  not  succeeded  in  finding  any  extraneous  reference  to  these 
individuals. 

*  A  Humphrey  Seale  was  "Beadle"  to  the  Levant  Company 
161 5 — 1619.  {Calendar  of  State  Papers,  Domestic  Series,  vol.  147, 
pp.  154,  161  a,  172  a.)  He  may  have  been  the  father  of  Mundy's 
companion. 

^  i.e.  Dragoman,  Turkish  terjuman,  interpreter.  He  was  taken  ill 
when  the  party  arrived  at  Paris,  in  September,  1620,  and  was  left 
behind  under  the  care  of  Vincentio.  In  State  Papers,  Foreign 
Archives,  vol.  148,  pp.  45  a  and  52,  there  are  the  following  references 
to  Dominico  after  his  return  to  England: — "Sir  Paule  Pindar... recom- 
mended unto  the  Company  the  honesty,  ability  and  good  service  of 
Signior  Dominico  A  Greeke  who  was  his  drichman  there,  desiringe 
that  the  Company  would  add  some  tytle  of  reputation  unto  him  for  his 
good  service  passed,  and  that  they  would  againe  entertaine  him  and 
recomend  him  to  the  present  Ambassador  to  serve  him  as  one  of  his 
Secretaries  being  a  verie  fitt  man  for  the  discharge  of  that  place. 
Whereupon  the  Court  approvinge  of  the  motion  have  chosen  the  sayd 
Signior  Dominico  for  one  of  the  Secretaries  of  Mr.  John  Eyres  so  as 
it  be  with  his  likinge  and  good  approbation.  And  upon  such  terme  as 
Mr.  Deputie,  Mr.  Raph  Freeman,  Morris  Abbott,  Henry  Garway, 
Anthony  Abdy  and  the  Husband  [steward,  paymaster]  shall  sitt  downe 
and  agree  uppon,  which  with  the  Companyes  pleasure  Mr.  Governor 
acquainted  the  sayd  Signior  Dominico ;  he  verie  thankfully  accepted 
of  their  favor  and  respect  towards  him  which  he  will  alwais  indeavour 
to  preserve."  In  spite  of  this  excellent  testimonial,  Dominico  did  not 
get  the  post.  "  Whereas  Signior  Dominico  was  formerly  entertayned 
at  a  Generall  Court  the  18th.  of  October  last  upon  the  recommenda- 
tion of  Sir  Paule  Pindar  Knight,  to  assist  Sir  John  Eyre  the  now 
Ambassader  at  Constantinople  in  his  affaires  for  the  Company  as  his 
Secretary,  and  an  agreement  made  with  him  for  400  doUers  Per 
Annum  to  beginn  at  Christmas  last,  yet  with  this  reservation,  that  if 
Sir  John  Eyre  should  not  agree  thereunto  nor  accept  of  the  said 
Signior  Dominico  in  that  place  upon  notice  thereof  given  unto  him 
from  the  Company,  that  then  the  said  Election  and  agreement  should 
be  wholly  voyde.  Forasmuch  as  the  letters  read  at  this  Courte  from 
the   Ambassador   do   intymate   that  he  will  not  accept  of  the  said 


FROM   CONSTANTINOPLE   TO   LONDON  43 

Clearke,  Emanuell  ([a]  Greeke),  Robbin  the  Cooke,  Rice 
Davis  a  Welshman,  John  Deems  and  Vincento  Castello 
(Greekes),  John  Cunny,  William  Pennington,  Thomas 
Humes  (a  Scottishman),  Edward  the  footeman  (an  Irish- 
man), Teodoro  (a  Muscovite  or  Russe),  and  my  selfe, 
Peter  Mundy.  In  all  25  persons  with  my  Lord.  Likewise 
six  Frenchmen  went  in  our  Companie ;  these  came  over 
with  the  newe  Frenche  Ambassador^,  and  were  now 
returning  for  their  Countrie.  Moreover,  twenty-one  Janis- 
saries^  for  our  safe  Convoy,  two  Sices  or  horsekeepers^, 
one    Armenian    and    a    Muratt*   to    dresse    victualls,    and 


Dominico  as  Secretary,  and  that  ther  is  not  any  occasion  of  Imploy- 
ment  for  him  as  Truchman,  or  otherwise ;  but  adviseth  the  Company 
to  ease  themselves  of  that  charge.  Sir  Paula  Pinder  being  then  present 
in  Court  did  take  notice  thereof,  and  after  some  debate  too  and  fro 
aboute  the  said  busines,  did  in  the  behalf  of  Signior  Dominico 
acknowledge  the  Companies  favour  towards  him ;  and  freely  dis- 
charged the  Company  from  the  said  Ellection  and  Agreement  which 
was  accordingly  accepted  of  by  the  Court,  and  the  said  Signior 
Dominico  leaft  at  his  owne  libertie,  and  dispose  to  imploy  himself  as 
hee  best  thought  fitting." 

^  The  French  Ambassador  at  this  time  was  Monsieur  de  C6sy 
{vide  Des  Hayes,  Voiage  de  Levant^  p.  88,  quoted  in  Appendix  F). 
De  Cdsy  succeeded  the  unfortunate  Baron  de  Sancy,  who  was  Am- 
bassador from  161 1  to  1617,  in  which  latter  year  he  was  insulted  and 
imprisoned  in  the  "  Seven  Towers "  by  Mustafa  I.  De  Sancy  was 
recalled  in  161 8,  and  Osman,  Mustafa's  successor,  made  his  peace 
with  the  French  king.     See  Knolles,  Historic  of  the  Turkes^  p.  1378. 

^  The  Janissaries  ( Yengi  cheri^  new  soldiery)  were  established  by 
Amurath  (Murad)  I.  in  1362.  The  organization  was  composed  mainly 
of  tributary  children  of  Christians.  It  was  finally  abolished  in  1826. 
The  composition,  rise  and  history  of  the  Turkish  Janissaries  are 
curiously  allied  to  that  of  the  Cheylas  employed  about  the  Muham- 
madan  Courts  of  India  in  the  seventeenth  and  eighteenth  centuries. 
Vide  Ind.  Ant.,  vol.  xxv.  pp.   199  ff.  and  228  ff. 

Compare  Gainsford,  Glory  of  Englaiid.,  p.  201,  "The  degrees  of 
the  Turks.  The  second  degree  is  of  Janizaries.. .the  principall  beame 
of  the  whole  Empires  frame.  For  from  their  suffrages  and  obedience 
the  Gran  Signeur  is  confirmed." 

See  also  Purchas,  Pilgrimage.,  p.  291. 

^  Syce  (from  Ar.  sais).,  a  groom,  horse-keeper. 

*  There  appears  to  be  a  copyist's  error  here  and  the  passage 
should  apparently  run,  "one  Armenian  named  Muratt,"  Murat  (Ar. 
for  Murad)  being  a  common  Armenian  surname  Later  on  in  this 
Relation  we  learn  that  "this  Murratt"  was  otherwise  named  "Taddue" 
(see  p.  48)  and  "  Taddux" :  so  that  we  may  assume  that  the  author  is 


44  A  JOURNEY   OVERLAND 

Stamo  the  Greeke,  my  Lord  haveinge  hired  twelve 
waggons  as  farr  as  Belgrade  for  the  stuffe.  Himselfe 
with  the  Gentlemen  and  Marchants  were  well  mounted, 
the  Attendants,  servants,  etts.,  road  in  the  waggons.  The 
Frenchmen  had  thirty-one  Carts  of  theire  owne,  which 
carryed  themselves  and  their  Lumberment. 

All  the  Marchants  of  Gallata  brought  his  Lordshipp 
on  the  way,  vizt.,  Mr.  Edward  Stringar\  Mr.  Moody^ 
Mr.    William    Woodhouse^,    Mr.  Hunt^,   Mr.    Hamond 

Gibbons^  Theis  five  tooke  theire  leaves  att  the  fresh 
Rivers^  which  is  about  two  miles  from  Pera.  Mr.  Wilson^ 
and  Mr.  Beamond  returned  back  with  them  about  some 
businesse.       Mr.     Laurence     Greene*',     Mr.     Bartholomew 


speaking  of  an  Armenian  who  was  named  Thaddeus  Murat.  When 
the  party  arrived  at  Belgrade,  "this  Muriatt"  was  permitted  to  return 
to  Constantinople  with  a  Bulgarian  woman,  whom  he  had  chosen  as 
a  wife  for  his  brother,  a  shoemaker  in  the  Turkish  capital. 

^  Edward  Stringer  was  treasurer  to  the  Levant  Company  at  Con- 
stantinople.    State  Papers,  Foreign  Archives,  vol.  148,  p.  9  a. 

^  I  have  been  unable  to  find  any  further  mention  of  these  in- 
dividuals. 

^  William  Woodhouse  was  admitted  to  the  freedom  of  the  Levant 
Company  on  the  14th  June,  162.1.  State  Papers,  Foreign  Archives, 
vol.  148,  p.  56  a. 

*  In  a  map  of  1690  (B.M.  43335.  3)  Aqua  dulce  is  marked.  Com- 
pare Clarke,  Travels,  vol.  iv.  p.  521  f,  "We  embarked  at  Galata... 
we  came  to  the  confluence  of  two  small  rivers,  the  Cydaris  and  the 
Barbyses,  abounding  with  innumerable  fishes,  and  giving  to  this  part 
of  the  bay  the  name  of  Sweet  or  Fresh  Waters." 

^  See  note  7  on  p.  41. 

^  See  note  4  on  p.  23.  The  following  extracts  from  the  Calendar 
of  State  Papers,  Domestic  Series,  appear  to  refer  to  the  Lawrence 
Greene  with  whom  Mundy  was  connected : — 

?  1621  (vol.  42,  No.  67).  "The  King  to  [the  Levant  Company],  We 
request  that  Lawrence  Greene,  late  consul  at  Smyrna,  between  whom 
and  you  a  difference  exists  about  his  salary,  may  have  a  fair  and 
ample  allowance  for  his  services  and  expenses  during  his  employ- 
ment." 

1 62 1  (vol.  42,  No.  68).  "The  King  to  Sir  Thomas  Rowe  and 
Sir  Paul  Pindar.  We  recommend  the  case  of  Greene,  late  consul 
at  Smyrna,  referred  to  you  by  the  Council,  to  your  favourable 
report." 

28  January,  1634.  "The  King  to  the  Governor  and  Company  of 
Merchants  trading  to  the  Levant.     Recommends  John  Freeman  for 


FROM   CONSTANTINOPLE   TO    LONDON  45 

Abbott',  Mr.  Abell  Guilliams^  Mr.  Francis  Lowe^  Mr. 
John  Smith-,  Mr.  Edward  Wyche^  Mr.  Robert  Salter^ 
Theis  seven  rode  on  with  my  Lord,  and  that  eveninge 
wee  came  to  a  Towne  standinge  on  the  sea  syde"  (Ponto 
Piccolo,    15    miles'').     Wee   lodged    that    night   in   a   good 


consul  of  Scio  and  Smyrna  in  place  of  Lawrence  Greene  whom  they 
have  removed." 

6  December,  1636.  Petition  of  Lawrence  Greene  to  the  King. 
"On  the  death  of  William  Salter,  he  was  appointed  Consul  at  Smyrna, 
by  his  Majesty's  Ambassador  with  the  Turkish  Emperor,  afterwards 
confirmed  by  the  Company  of  English  Merchants  trading  in  those 
parts.  Having  done  them  many  services  these  five  years,  he  has 
received  no  allowance  for  his  pains,  as  his  predecessors  have  done, 
whereupon  he  has  made  stay  of  some  of  their  goods.  For  staying  of 
which  goods  the  said  merchants  now  at  his  return  labour  to  arrest 
petitioner  (in  this  dangerous  time)  and  restrain  him  from  attending 
His  Majesty  or  the  Secretaries  of  State  as  he  ought.  Prays  letter  of 
protection." 

From  the  above,  Lawrence  Greene  seems  to  have  held  the  post 
of  Consul  at  Smyrna  under  the  Levant  Company  prior  to  1621,  and 
again,  for  five  years  previous  to  1634. 

'  See  note  i  on  p.  1 5. 

2  I  have  found  no  further  reference  to  these  individuals. 

^  This  may  be  the  Francis  Lowe  who  is  referred  to  in  September 
1626  {Calendar  of  State  Papej's^  Dotnestic  Series,  1625 — 1626,  p.  421) 
as  follows : — "  Sir  Alexander  Brett  to  Nicholas.  Certifies  sufficiency 
of  Francis  Lowe  who  was  in  the  action  at  Algiers,  and  with  Sir  Walter 
Raleigh  under  the  command  of  Captain  Pennington." 

*  For  an  account  of  Edward  Wyche,  and  Mundy's  relations  with 
the  Wyche  family,  see  Appendix  B. 

^  Robert  Salter,  who  was  probably  connected  with  William  Salter, 
Consul  at  Smyrna  (see  above,  p.  44,  note  6),  was  made  free  of  the 
Levant  Company  in  June,  1619;  State  Papers,  Foreign  Archives, 
vol.  148,  p.  30  a.  In  August,  1629,  a  warrant  was  issued  to  a  Robert 
Salter  for  letters  of  marque  as  owner  and  Captain  of  the  Margaret  of 
Weymouth;  Calendar  of  State  Papers,  Domestic  Series,  1629— 1631, 
p.  155. 

'°  Pindar's  train  travelled  by  the  old  post  road  from  Constantinople 
to  Belgrade,  a  route  now  almost  exactly  followed  by  the  railway.  It 
was  the  road  taken  by  Des  Hayes  in  1621,  Blount  in  1634,  PouUet  in 
1657 — 1658,  Covel  in  1670,  Pococke  in  1740,  and  Clarke  in  1802.  The 
three  former  covered  the  same  ground  as  did  Mundy  from  Constan- 
tinople to  Belgrade,  though  in  the  contrary  direction,  and  the  two 
latter,  in  the  eighteenth  and  nineteenth  centuries,  made  their  way 
to  Adrianople  by  the  same  stages  that  the  author  followed  in  1620. 
The  Journey  of  Des  Hayes,  happening  almost  contemporaneously 
with  Mundy's  "Journey  Overland"  is  given  at  length  in  Appendix  F. 

''  The  names  and  mileage  in  brackets  throughout  this  Relation 
refer  to  the  author's  own  marginal  notes. 


46  A  JOURNEY   OVERLAND 

stone  Cane\  Heere  is  a  longe  stone  bridge  which  goeth 
over  a  Creeke  of  the  Sea^. 

The  yth.  May,  1620.  Mr.  Smith  and  Mr.  Davis  returned 
to  Constantinople,  Mr.  Davis  beinge  to  come  after  my 
Lord^  From  Ponto  Piccolo  wee  came  to  Ponto  grande 
(8  miles),  another  Towne  on  the  Sea  side,  with  a  faire 
Stone  bridge  alsoe^  Heere  my  Lord  pitched  his  Tent 
the  first  tyme  in  a  faire  Greene  neere  the  Towne,  And 
this  night  hee  gave  order  for  a  watch  to  bee  kept  by  two 
and  two  howres  each  couple  all  the  nighte. 

The  ^th.  May,  1620.     This  Morninge  the  seaven  afore- 


^  Khan,  caravan-serai,  posting  inn. 

^  "Ponto  Piccolo"  is  the  modern  Kuchuk  Chekmejd.  Des  Hayes 
(see  Appendix  F)  has  Petit  pont;  a  map  of  1690  (B.M.  43335.  3)  has 
Cochion  Check  Mege  ;  and  a  map  of  1744  (B.M.  28195.  22)  has  Pons 
min. 

Compare  Poullet,  Notcvelles  Relations  dtc  Levant,  vol.  i.  p.  203, 
"  Kutchukmege,  qui  veut  dire  un  petit  (pont),  suivy  d'un  autre  gros 
bourg,  qui  n'a  point  d'autre  appellation,  ou  les  Ambassadeurs  qui 
vont  a  la  Porte  demeurent,  pour  y  attendre  les  ordres  du  Grand 
Seigneur,  et  estre  conduits  a  I'Audiance." 

Compare  also  Pococke,  A  Description  of  the  East,  Book  the  third, 
ch.  iii.  (Pinkerton's  Voyages,  vol.  x.  p.  732  f.),  "The  road  (from 
Constantinople  to  Adrianople)...is  to  the  south  west,  through  an  open 
fertile  country,  which  is  uneven  as  far  as  Selivree....Five  miles  from 
Constantinople  there  is  a  small  town  called  The  Little  Bridge,  from 
a  bridge  there  near  the  sea,  over  the  outlet  of  a  lake. 

See  Covel,  Early  Voyages  in  the  Leva?it,  p.  174  and  Clarke, 
Travels,  vol.  iv.  p.  477. 

^  It  is  not  clear  when  he  re-joined  the  Ambassador  and  the  rest  of 
the  company.  The  next  mention  of  him  in  this  Relation  is  when  the 
party  reached  Paris. 

*  The  modern  Biyuk  Chekmeje.  Des  Hayes  (see  Appetidix  F) 
has  grand  Pont,  and  a  map  of  1744  (B.M.  28195.  22)  has  Pons  maj. 

Compare  Poullet,  Nonvelles  Relations  du  Levant,  vol.  i.  p.  203, 
"  Bouioukmege  est  le  nom  d'un  grand  pont,  sur  lequel  on  traverse 
un  marais  cause  par  un  degorgement  de  la  mer,  pour  passer  a  un 
bourg  nommd  de  mesme." 

Compare  also  Clarke,  Travels,  vol.  iv.  p.  477,  "  Buyuk  Tchekmadji, 
signifying  the  Great  Bridge,  has  a  series  of  four  stone  bridges  raised 
upon  arches :  over  which,  and  along  the  old  paved  way,  we  passed  by 
a  lake  to  the  town." 

See  Covel,  Early  Voyages  in  the  Levant,  p.  176.  See  also  Pococke, 
A  Description  of  the  East,  Book  the  third,  ch.  iii.  p.  732,  in  Pinkerton's 
Voyages,  vol.  x. 


FROM   CONSTANTINOPLE   TO   LONDON  47 

mentioned^  tooke  theire  leave  of  my  Lord  and  Gentlemen, 
and  returned  to  Constantinople.  Wee  likewise  departed 
from  Ponto  grande.  Passinge  by  Camburgas  (6  miles)^, 
wee  came  to  Selibrea  (11  miles)^,  a  Seatowne,  neere  which 
wee  pitched  for  that  Night. 

The.(^th.  May,  1620.    Wee  came  to  Choorloo  (20  miles)*, 


1  i.e.  Messrs  Greene,  Abbott,  Gwilliams,  Lowe,  Smith,  Wyche,  and 
Salter.  They  were  all  probably  "  Turkey  Merchants,"  residing  at 
Pera.     See  note  3  on  p.   15. 

2  The  modern  Kumburgas.  Compare  Covel,  Early  Voyages  in 
the  Leva?it,  p.  1 79,  "  About  half  way  to  Selibria  we  go  by  a  Httle 
ruinated  town,  just  in  the  very  sea,  the  road  lying  upon  the  sand  ; 
the  town  stands  to  the  right  hand,  in  Turkish  Koomburgas,  or  sand- 
burough... there  hath  been  formerly  a  little  castle  or  fort  there." 
PouUet  calls  the  place  Congerba: — "  Une  personne  de  consideration 
...nous  protegea  de  sa  compagnie,  et  nous  conduisit  jusqu'k  Congerba." 
Nouvelles  Relations  dn  Levant.,  vol.  i.  p.  203.  In  a  map  of  1822 
(B.M.,  6".  205)  it  appears  as  Coumbourgaz  or  Couzomion. 

Compare  also  Pococke,  A  Description  of  the  East  (Pinkerton's 
Voyages.,  vol.  x.  p.  732),  "  Ten  miles  further  [beyond  the  '  Great 
Bridge']  is  a  village  on  the  sea  called  Camourgat." 

^  The  modern  Silivri.  Compare  the  stages  in  "The  Journey  of 
Edward  Barton,  Esquire,  her  Majesties  Ambassador  with  the  Grand 
Signior.... Written  by  Sir  Thomas  Glover,  etc."  in  Purchas  His 
Pilg?imes,  Book  viii.  ch.  9,  p.  1355  f  (Barton  made  the  journey 
from  Constantinople  to  Belgrade  in  1596  and  followed  Mundy's 
route  to  Selibria),  "The  second  day  of  July,  1596,  the  said  Am- 
bassador parted  his  house  (which  is  in  the  Vines  of  Pera)  and  took 
his  journey... unto  a  place  called  Aquadulce  [the  Fresh  Rivers]. ..we... 
came  to  Ponte  Piccolo... some  fifteene  miles  distant  from  Aquadulce... 
parted  thence... arrived  at  Ponte  Grande,  which  is  about  twelve  miles 
distant... we  parted  Ponte  Grande,  and  by  Sun-rising  wee  came  to  a 
small  village  called  Combergassi... parted  thence,  and  came  to  a  Towne, 
called  Celebria...some  ten  miles  distant  from  our  last  Lodging." 

Compare  also  Poullet,  Nouvelles  Relations  du  Levant.,  vol.  i.  p.  203, 
"  Les  restes  d'une  petite  Ville,  appel^e  Celivree,  qui  a  son  Port  combl^ 
et  poste  en  un  lieu  fort  avantageux." 

See  Blount,  A  Voyage  into  the  Leva7tt,  ed.  1638,  p.  23,  for  "Burgaz, 
Churlo  "  and  "  Selibree."     The  passage  is  quoted  in  Appe?tdix  A. 

See  also  Covel,  Early  Voyages  in  the  Levant.,  p.  I79f,  and  Pococke, 
A  Description  of  the  East  (Pinkerton's  Voyages,  vol.  x.  p.  732). 

Clarke,  Travels,  vol.  iv.  p.  540,  remarks,  "From  Buyuk  Tchekmadj^ 
to  Selivria  was  Hke  travelling  over  the  steppes  of  Russia,"  and,  p.  542, 
"Selivria...is  surrounded  by  vineyards.... The  harbour  is  good." 

*  The  modern  Chorlu.  See  Covel,  Early  Voyages  in  the  Levant, 
p.  i8of,  and  Bargrave's  account,  quoted  at  the  end  oi  Appendix  F. 

Compare  Poullet,  Nouvelles  Relations  du  Levant,  vol.  i.  p.  201  f., 
*'  Chiourlik,  au  dessus  duquel  on  voit  quelques  vieilles  vestiges  d'une 


48  A  JOURNEY   OVERLAND 

where  Mr.  Beamond,  Mr.  Wilson^  and  Taddue  overtooke 
us. 

The  lotk.  May,  1620.  Passinge  by  Caristran  (15  miles)^. 
Wee  came  to  a  Towne  named  Bergasse  (15  miles)^^ 
haveinge  a  prettie  fresh  water  River  with  a  Stone  Bridge 
by  which  wee  pitched.   . 

The  nth.  May,  1620.    Wee  past  by  Babaeskeesee^,  and 


ancienne  muraille,  et  d'un  Canal  que  les  derniers  Empereurs  Chrestiens. 
avoient  commence  k  faire  creuser  pour  laisser  degorger  la  mer  de 
Marmora  dans  le  Pont-Euxin,  et  se  couvrir  des  irruptions  des  Bar- 
bares."  Des  Hayes  (see  Appendix  F)  calls  the  place  Chiourli.  A 
map  of  1690  (B.M.  43335.  3)  has  Ziorli  Chiourlik,  and  a  map  of  1744 
(B.M.  28195.  22)  has  Tschurlik-Tzurlum. 

See  also  Clarke,  Travels,  vol.  iv.  p.  543,  and  Pococke,  A  De- 
scription of  the  East  in  Pinkerton's   Voyages,  vol.  x.  p.  732. 

^  They  left  the  party  at  the  "  Fresh  Rivers."     See  p.  44. 

2  The  modern  Karistran.  See  Covel,  Early  Voyages  in  the  Levant, 
p.  183.     He  gives  the  distance  as  17  miles  from  Chorlu. 

Compare  Clarke,  Travels,  p.  544,  "At  six  hours'  distance  from 
Tchorlu,  we  turned  a  little  out  of  the  road  to  the  village  of 
Caristrania." 

^  The  modern  Lule-Burgas:  called  also  Chatal-Burgas.  See 
Blount,  ed.  1638,  p.  23,  quoted  in  Appendix  A.  See  also  Appendix  F 
(last  part)  for  an  extract  from  Rawl.  MS.,  C.  799,  giving  the  Diary 
of  Robt.  Bargrave  in  his  journey  from  Constantinople  to  Burgas, 
in  1652. 

Compare  Pococke's  account,  A  Description  of  the  East  (Pinker- 
ton's  Voyages.,  vol.  x.  p.  732),  "We  went.. .to  a  town  called  Borgas, 
which  from  the  name,  as  well  as  situation,  seems  to  be  the  antient 
Bergulas."  (A  map  of  1744  (B.M.  28195.  22)  has  Bergulae  Ar- 
cadia.) 

Compare  also  Hobhouse,  foiirtiey  through  Albania,  vol.  ii.  p.  871, 
"The  forests  of  Belgrade  commence  about  ten  miles  from  Pera, 
extending  in  length  from  the  village  of  Bourgas  towards  the  shores 
of  the  Black  Sea.... At  Bourgas  is  a  portion  of  the  aqueduct  built 
originally  by  Theodosius  or  Valens  and  Valentinian...and  totally 
reconstructed  by  Solyman  the  Magnificent." 

*  Now  usually  Eski  Baba,  though  in  Kiepert's  map  of  the  Turkish 
Empire  (1855)  it  appears  as  Baba  Eskisi.  See  Covel,  Early  Voyages 
in  the  Levant,  p.  1 85  f. 

Compare  Poullet,  Nouvelles  Relations  dii  Levant,  vol.  i.  p.  201, 
"La  route  [Adrianople  to  Constantinople]  est  toute  ennuyeuse,  unie, 
et  sans  beaucoup  d'arbres.  Le  seul  avantage  qu'il  y  a,  est  la  com- 
modite  des  Caravan-serails,  qui  sont  les  plus  beaux  qu'il  y  ait  dans 
le  Levant... de  Constantinople  a  Andrinoplc.on  rencontre  quelques 
bourgs,  dont  les  premiers  sont  moins  peuplez  que  les  derniers  :  a 
scavoir  Absa,  Babaesqui,  Burgase,  compose  seulement  d'un  fort  petit 


FROM   CONSTANTINOPLE   TO   LONDON  49 

came  to  another  Towne  called  Hafsha  (15  miles) \  haveinge 
also  a  fresh  river  with  a  stone  bridge  by  which  wee  rested. 

The  \2th.  May,  1620.  Wee  Came  to,  and  past  through 
the  Cittie  of  Adrianople  (15  miles)^  where,  on  the  other 
side  of  it,  in  a  very  faire  learge  Greene  just  before  the 
Grand  Sigrs.  pallace,  wee  pitched ;  but  there  succeeded  such 
a  terrible  shower  of  rayne  with  thunder  and  lightninge,  that 
wee  were  forced  to  seeke  a  better  harbour,  which  was  pro- 
fered  us^,  beinge  a  greate  howse  to  lodge  the  Gran  Signiors 
trayne  and  horses,  when  he  cometh  thither,  which  is  very 
seldome.     Heere  is  also  a  fresh  water  River  and  a  bridge. 

The  iph.  May,  1620.  My  Lord  went  to  see  the  Gran 
Signiors  howse  with  the  Gentlemen  and  most  of  his 
Attendants,  to  describe  which  would  require  a  greate 
deale  of  tyme ;  only  you  may  suppose  it  was  very 
stately,  curious  and  costly,  haveinge  many  faire  greate 
gardens,  with  howses  of  service  covered  with  Lead,  vizt. 
kitchins.  Bathes,  etts.  all  environed  with  a  faire  bricke 
Wall,  beinge  to  receive  the  Gran  Signior  att  his  arrivall 
heere,  which  is  very  seldome,  as  a  forementioned^ 

nombre  de  maisons,  et  qui  n'est  considerable  qu'a  cause  du  Caravan- 
serail  qu'on  y  a  esleve,  le  plus  acheve  de  toute  la  Turquie." 

See  Pococke,  A  Description  of  the  East  (Pinkerton's  Voyages,. 
vol.  X.  p.  Ti-^). 

^  The  modern  Khafsa,  or  Hafsa.  See  Covel,  Early  Voyages  i?i 
the  Levafit,  p.  187.  See  previous  note  for  PouUet's  spelling  of  the 
place.  Des  Hayes  {Appendix  F)  calls  it  Absa  ;  a  map  of  1690  (B.  M. 
43335-  3)  has  Apsa  ;  a  map  of  1744  (B.M.  28195.22)  has  Hapsala;  and 
Pococke  has  Hapfa. 

^  Here  the  author  has  a  marginal  note,  "Vid:  Fol:  I."  This  refers 
to  Blount's  remarks  on  Adrianople,  extracted  from  his  Voyage  into  the 
Levant.     The  passage  will  be  found  in  Appendix  A. 

^  Pindar  and  his  train  were  more  fortunate  in  their  lodging  at 
Adrianople  than  were  Sir  John  Finch  and  Sir  Thos.  Barnes  when 
they  made  the  same  journey  in  1675  as  described  by  Covel,  Early 
Voyages  iti  the  Levant,  p.  190,  "The  house  we  first  were  allotted  was 
the  damn'dest,  confounded  place  that  ever  mortall  man  was  put  into  ; 
it  was  a  Jewes  house  not  half  big  enough  to  hold  half  my  Lord's 
family,  a  mere  nest  of  fleas  and  cimici  [bugs],  and  rats  and  mice,  and 
stench,  surrounded  with  whole  kennells  of  nasty,  beastly  Jewes." 

*  Compare  the  following  travellers'  descriptions  of  Adrianople  and 
the  "Gran  Signior's"  SeragHo: — "There  yet  remain  the  walls  of  the 


50  A   JOURNEY   OVERLAND 

TJie  \A^th.  May,  1620.  About  Noone  wee  departed 
Adrianople,  leaveinge  Stamo  the  Greeke  behinde\  whoe 
was  to  goe  to  Gasparo  Gratiano^  that  was  once  my  Lords 


old  town,  which  now  contain  the  fourth  and  worst  part,  inhabited  by 
Zinganes  [Gipsies],  Christians,  Jews,  and  others  esteemed  as  refuse 
people  :  a  little  without  the  city  northward,  stands  the  Grand  Seignior's 
seraglio  with  a  park  walled,  some  three  miles  in  compass :  the  palace  is 
very  low,  all  covered  with  lead  rising  up  for  [?from]  a  fiat,  into  a  sharp 
round,  and  seems  but  like  a  garden-house  for  pleasure :  it  is  kept  by 
his  Agemoglans  \^ajenu-oghla?t,  lit.  foreign-boy,  an  oriental  foreigner 
newly  admitted  to  the  Sultan's  service],  to  entertain  not  only  the 
Grand  Seignior,  but  in  his  absence,  any  bashaw  or  other  principal 
minister."  Blount,  A  Voyage  into  the  Levant,  p.  23.  (Blount  was 
fifty-two  days  in  travelling  from  Spalato  to  Constantinople.  Mundy 
took  forty-six  days  to  do  the  journey  in  the  opposite  direction.) 
"  Adrianople  is  very  delightfully  situated,  in  a  beautiful  plain,  watered 
by  three  rivers  ;  the  shops,  which  are  well  built  and  furnished,  and  the 
Kanes  are  within  the  city  walls,  but  most  of  the  people  live  on  the 
height  over  the  old  city — This  is  one  of  the  four  royal  cities  in  which 
the  Grand  Signiors  have  made  their  residence ;  the  seraglio  is  to  the 
west  of  the  town... it  is  built  on  a  fine  plain  spot,  and  there  is  a  large 
meadow  towards  the  river  planted  with  trees  ;  besides  the  principal 
building  for  the  Grand  Signior,  which  did  not  seem  to  be  very  large, 
there  are  many  little  houses  in  the  gardens  for  the  ladies,  and  in  other 
parts  for  the  great  officers ;  and  as  they  are  low,  it  has  the  appearance 
of  a  Carthusian  cloyster....On  the  hill  to  the  west  of  the  seraglio  there 
is  a  large  summer-house  which  belongs  to  the  Grand  Signior,  from 
which  there  is  a  fine  prospect  of  the  City,  and  all  the  country  round." 
Pococke,  A  Description  of  the  East,  in  Pinkerton's   Voyages,  vol.  x. 

P-  733  f- 

See  also  PouUet,  Nonvelles  Relations  du  Levant,  vol.  i.  pp.  195 — 
200 ;  and  the  account  in  Appendix  F. 

1  See  p.  44. 

2  "  Gasparo  Gratiano,  a  Druggerman,"  Author's  l7idex.  Caspar 
Gratiani  was  a  notable  character  of  the  time.  He  was  first  employed 
as  interpreter  to  Sir  Thomas  Glover,  Pindar's  predecessor  at  Constan- 
tinople, and  was  instrumental  in  obtaining  the  release  of  Sir  Thomas 
Shirley,  who  had  been  imprisoned  by  the  Turks.  Later,  Gratiani 
entered  the  service  of  the  Grand  Signior.  In  1614  he  was  sent  on  an 
embassy  to  the  Emperor  Matthias.  As  a  reward  for  his  success  in 
the  negotiations,  he  obtained  the  government  of  Moldavia.  See 
KnoUes,  Historie  of  the  Ttirkes,  p.  1385,  and  Von  Hammer,  Nistoire 
de  V Empire  Ottoman,  vol.  viii.  pp.  201  and  246.  Compare  the  follow- 
ing contemporary  references  to  Gratiani  : 

"  Gasparo  Gratiano  a  man  for  speciall  uses  entertained  amongst 
the  English,  whose  brother  and  sister  were  both  taken  and  admitted 
amongst  the  Turkes,  being  formerly  Christains  of  Transilvania  or 
Austria."     Gainsford,  Glofy  of  Ettglajtd,  p.  192. 

"At  Vienne  in  Austria...!  found  a  Turkish  Ambassadour,  going 
downe  the  Champion  Danubis  of  Europe,  for  Constantinople;  and 
with  him  one  Gratianus,  a  Greeke  his  Interpreter,  to  whose  familiar 
love  I  was  much  obliged  and  with  whom  I  imbarked  downe  the  River 
to  Presburge."     Lithgow,  Paineftt II  Peregrinations,  p.  412. 


FROM   CONSTANTINOPLE   TO   LONDON  5 1 

Drogaman  or  Interpreter,  but  now  Prince  of  Bugdamia\ 
and  attained  to  that  dignity  thus  : — There  beinge  warrs 
betweene  the  Emperor  of  Germany  and  the  Turke,  this 
Gasparo  was  sent  by  the  Gran  Signior  by  reason  of  the 
quicknesse  of  his  witt  and  tongue  to  treate  of  a  peace 
betweene  them,  where  hee  soe  dilhgently  behaved  him- 
selfe  that  it  was  concluded  betwene  the  twoe  Monarches, 
And  att  his  returne,  for  his  good  service  therein  performed, 
hee  was  made  Duke  of  an  Hand  called  Naxia^ ;  afterwards 
for  his  good  Goverment  therein  shewed,  hee  was  created 
Prince  of  Bugdanial 

From     Adrianople    wee     came     to     Mustapha     Pasha 
Cupreesee  (15   miles)*,   as   much   to  say  as  the  bridge   of 


^  The  term  Bugdamia  or  Bugdania  appears  to  have  been  used  in 
two  senses  :  firstly,  for  some  portion  of  the  modern  Bessarabia,  then  a 
part  of  Moldavia ;  and,  secondly,  for  the  old  province  of  Moldavia 
itself 

Compare  Purchas,  Pilgrimage,  p.  294  f.,  "The  Janizaries. ..cried 
out... why  should  they  not  march  to... the  foraging  of  the  Countries 
of  Moldavia  and  Bogdonia....The  King  of  Poland... encamped  in  the 
fields  of  Bogdonia." 

Gainsford,  Glory  of  England,  p.  183,  alludes  to  "the  inhabitants 
of  Bogdonia  and  the  borders  of  Russia"  and,  on  p.  192,  he  remarks  on 
the  "Provinces  of  Bogdonia  and  Moldavia  at  strife." 

^  Naxia  or  Naxos,  in  the  Greek  Archipelago. 

^  "  It  was  afterwards  reported  that  standinge  out  in  Rebellion 
against  the  Turke  hee  was  by  them  Slaine."  Author  s  marginal  note. 
The  downfall  of  Caspar  Gratiani,  when  Voivode  of  Moldavia  occurred 
soon  after  Mundy  left  Constantinople.  He  was  deposed  on  the 
discovery  of  his  intrigues  with  Sigismund  III.,  the  ruler  of  Poland. 
Gratiani  called  upon  the  Poles  for  assistance.  They  sent  him  a  force 
of  50,000  men,  10,000  of  whom  were  slain  at  a  battle  fought  near 
Jassy,  in  Moldavia,  on  the  20th  September,  1620.  Gratiani  himself 
perished  in  the  retreat  across  the  Dniester  with  the  remnant  of  the 
army.  See  Von  Hammer,  Histoire  de  VEmpire  Ottoinan,  vol.  viii. 
pp.  256 — 260.  Knolles,  Historie  of  the  Turkes,  p.  1385  f.,  gives  a 
different  version  of  Gratiani's  deposition  and  says  that  he  escaped 
alive  after  the  battle. 

*  This  place  is  still  known  as  Mustafa  Pasha,  or  Jezar  Mustafa 
Pasha,  or  Mustafa  Pasha  Kuprusu.  A  map  of  1744  (B.M.  28195.  22) 
has  Mustapha  Bassa  Cuprisy  Pons  ! 

Compare  Busbequius,  Travels  into  Turkey,  p.  31,  "We  passed 
over  the  Hebrus  on  a  famous  Bridge,  made  by  Mustapha,  and  so 
came  to  Hadrianople." 

Compare  also  Poullet,  Nouvelles  Relations  dii  Levant,  vol.  i.  p.  189, 


52  A  JOURNEY   OVERLAND 

Must  Pasha.  Of  this  bridge  it  is  thus  reported  for 
certaine,  That  Sultan  SoHman  the  Magnificent  haveing 
warrs  with  Hungary^,  att  his  Comeinge  this  way,  saw  the 
bridge,  and  demaundinge  whoe  caused  it  to  be  built,  the 
afore  named  M.P.^  presented  himselfe,  sayeing  hee  did  it. 
The  Kinge  then  prayed  him  to  bestowe  it  on  him,  where- 
unto  hee  replyed  that,  in  regard  hee  had  built  it  for  the 
good  of  his  soule,  it  could  not  be  given  away.  The  Kinge, 
beinge  discontented  with  this  answere,  would  not  passe 
over  the  Bridge  att  all,  but  sought  a  foorde  a  little  above 
the  said  Bridge  with  his  horses  and  followers  ;  wherein, 
passinge  over,  there  was  drowned  two  of  his  owne  Pages 
among  the  rest.  Soe  that  it  is  a  Custome  to  this  day, 
when  any  Vizer  or  Basha  hath  occasion  to  passe  this  way 
on  warfare,  hee  goeth  not  over  the  Bridge,  but  where  the 
Kinge  did  passe.  The  rest  of  the  Armie  goe  over  the 
Bridge. 

The  \^th.  May,  1620.  From  the  place  a  foresaid^  wee 
came  to  this  Towne  (Armanly,  15  miles)^  and  pitched 
hard  by  a  good  Cane.     These  Canes^  beinge  certain  great 

"  Au  sortir  de  Philiba  nous  rencontrames  quatre  ou  cinq  villages,  qui 
n'avoient  rien  de  plus  celebre  que  les  antiquailles  de  leurs  ruines ; 
comme  Apapa  likioi,  Cayli  kioi  ou  Zovigiova,  Hermanli,  Mustafa- 
pacha  Cupressi,  Tekyeh;  ou  je  vis  d'assez  beaux  Caravanserails." 

See  Des  Hayes'  description  of  "Mustapha  Bascha"  in  Appendix  F. 

^  Sulaiman  the  Magnificent  besieged  and  took  Czabaoz  and 
Belgrade  in  1521.  In  1526,  and  again  in  1531,  he  led  victorious 
armies  into  Hungary. 

2  i.e.  Mustafa  Pasha. 

^  i.e.  the  town  of  Mustafa  Pasha. 

*  Hermanli,  or  ChirmenH.  See  note  4  on  pp.  51,  52.  See  also  the 
account  of  Hermanli  by  Des  Hayes  in  Appendix  F.  The  Khan  seems 
to  be  still  in  existence. 

^  See  note  i  on  p.  46. 

Compare  PouUet,  Nouvelles  Relations  du  Levant,  vol.  i.  p.  68,  "  Je 
me  rendis  au  Han,  qui  estoit  justement  fait  comme  une  grange... en 
Turquie  ils  sont  tous  pareils  a  celui-ci." 

For  various  accounts  of  the  Khans  in  Turkey,  from  1620  up  to 
1810,  see  Busbequius,  Travels  i?tto  Turkey,  pp.  21 — 24;  Du  Loir, 
Voyages,  p.  190;  Covel,  Early  Voyages  in  the  Levatit,  p.  174; 
Thdvenot,  Travels  into  the  Levant,  Part  i.  p.  26;  Dumont,  A  New 


FROM   CONSTANTINOPLE   TO    LONDON  53 

edifices  built  by  Kings  and  greate  Men  for  the  accom- 
modation of  soldiers  and  Travellers,  most  commonly  att 
easie  Journies  ends  ;  because  there  bee  noe  Inns  in  the 
Turkes  Dominions.  These  places  beinge  very  necessarye 
for  horse  and  man,  and  soe  large  that  one  of  them  will 
conteyne  eighty  or  one  hundred  Horse  with  their  Riders. 
Only  if  you  have  noe  servants,  you  must  buy  your  pro- 
vision and  dresse  it  your  selfe  in  the  said  Canes,  where  are 
Chimnies  for  the  purpose.  These  Canes  are  of  the  fairest 
buildings  in  theis  parts,  of  Hewen  stone,  and  Covered  with 
Lead  for  the  most  part ;  as  likewise  the  Mosches  or 
Churches  (which  are  cheifest),  then  Besistenes  and  Bathes. 

Besistenes  are  faire  greate  buildings  full  of  Shopps 
within,  which  open  att  nine  in  the  morning  and  shutt 
att  three  in  the  affternoone.  The  Owners  leaveinge  their 
Shopps  and  goods  in  Custodie  of  the  Keepers  of  the  said 
place,  being  verye  secure,  where  are  sold  none  but  fine 
and  rich  wares \ 

Bathes  are  places  where  Men  resort  to  wash  themselves, 
which  is  often  used,  especially  by  weomen,  for  whom  there 
bee  bathes  a  parte  which  they  frequent  twice  a  Weeke 
att  least^.  Haveinge  pitched  our  Tent  neere  the  Cane  as 
aforesaid,  it  began  soe  to  rayne  that  wee  were  glad  to 
shelter  our  selves  within  the  said   Cane. 


Voyage  mto  the  Leva?it^  p.  160;  Tournefort,  A  Voyage  into  the 
Levant,  vol.  ii.  p.  60 f.  ;  and  Hobhouse,  A  Journey  through  Albania, 
vol.  ii.  p.  960. 

A  detailed  account  of  the  "  Quiervansaras "  of  Turkey,  by  Des 
Hayes,  will  be  found  in  Appendix  F. 

1  See  pp.  29  and  37.  For  further  descriptions  of  bazistans  or 
arcaded  shops,  see  Delia  Valle,  Voyages,  vol.  i.  p.  42 ;  Thevenot, 
Travels  into  the  Levant,  Part  i.  p.  26;  Dumont,  A  New  Voyage  iftto 
the  Levant,  p.  149;  Hobhouse,  A  Journey  through  Albania,  vol.  ii. 
p.  962  f. 

2  See  note  2  on  p.  37.     See  also  Delia  Valle,  Voyages,  vol.  i.  p.  45. 
Compare    Blount,  A    Voyage  into   the   Levant,  ed.    1638,  p.    100, 

"Upon  the  taking  of  any  Towne,  the  first  thing  they  (the  Turks) 
erect  is  publique  Bathes,  which  they  establish  with  faire  revenues; 
so  that  for  lesse  then  two  pence,  any  man  or  woman  may  bee  bathed 
with  cleane  linnen,  and  neate  attendance." 


54  A  JOURNEY   OVERLAND 

The  \6th.  of  May,  1620.  Wee  came  to  Uzumyova^  a  . 
little  Towne  where  wee  dined ;  then  to  Cayalucke 
(15  miles)^,  a  poore  Towne  of  Christians,  Where  their 
best  walls  were  of  Stakes  and  Bowes  covered  with  strawe^ 
Heere  were  Store  of  Hoggs,  and  the  first  wee  saw  since 
our  settinge  out  from  Constantinople*.  My  Lord  himselfe 
lodged  in  one  of  those  poore  howses. 

Noate  :  that  all  the  Townes  wee  passed  by  or  through 
hitherto  (this  excepted)  have  bene  somewhat  hansome, 
with  their  Cherches,  Canes^  and  Bathes*'  fairely  built,  the 
Turke  beinge  very  curious  in  those  kind  of  buildings,  as 
alsoe  Besistenes'',  but  the  latter  only  in  greate  Citties. 

The  I'jth.  May,  1620.  Comminge  to  another  poore 
Towne  of  Christians  (Papaslee,  18  miles)^  wee  there  dyned, 
and  from  thence  wee  came  to  the  Cittie  of  Phillippopolis 
(12    miles)^  said    to    be    built    by   Phillipp    the    father  of 

1  The  modern  Uzunjova  or  Usunchobi.  Poullet,  in  his  map,  has 
Ouzouisgiova.  A  map  of  1690  (B.M.  43335.  3)  ^^^.s  Usumchese  ;  a 
map  of  1744  (B.M.  28195.  22)  has  Usumchova ;  and  a  map  of  1822 
(B.M.,  S.  205)  has  Ouzoundja-ova. 

2  The  modern  KiaUk,  Des  Hayes  speaks  of  "Caiah"as  a  Christian 
town.     See  Appendix  F.     Poullet,  in  his  map,  has  Kaili  Kioj. 

^  "  I  say  their  howses."     Author's  marginal  note. 
*  Until  his  arrival  at  Kialik,  the  author  had  only  passed  through 
Muhammadan  towns. 

5  Khans.     See  pp.  46  and  52.  ^  See  note  2  on  p.  53. 

7  See  pp.  29,  y]  and  53. 

8  Still  known  as  Papasli.     Poullet,  in  his  map,  has  Apapasli  Kioj. 

^  Here  the  author  has  a  marginal  note,  "  Phillipicke  feilds,  vid : 
Fol.  I."  This  refers  to  Blount's  remarks  on  Philippopolis  and  Mundys 
comments  thereon.     These  will  be  found  in  Appendix  A. 

Compare  the  account  of  Busbequius,  Travels  into  Turkey,  p.  31, 
"  The  City  of  Philippopolis  is  situate  on  one  of  three  Httle  Hills, 
disjoyned,  and  as  it  were,  rent  from  the  rest  of  the  Mountains,  and  is, 
as  the  Grace  of  those  Httle  Hillocks.... The  whole  Plain,  about  the 
Town,  is  full  of  Httle  round  HiUs  of  Earth,  which  the  Turks  say,  were 
raised  on  Purpose,  as  Monuments  of  the  frequent  Battles  fought  in 
those  Fields  and  the  Graves  [of]  such  as  were  slain  there." 

Compare  Poullet's  description  of  Philippopolis,  Nouvelles  Relations 
die  Levant,  vol.  ii.  p.  177,  "  Nous  passames  la  Marissa  sur  un  pont  de 
bois  assez  mal  fait,  et  arrivames  k  Philipopolis,  ou  Philiba,  jolie  ville, 
situee  sur  le  bord  de  cette  riviere,  passablement  bien  batie,  dans  una 
assiette  fort  agreable,  et  un  peu  plus  grande  que  Saint  Denis."  See 
also  the  account  of  Des  Hayes  in  Appendix  F. 


:^jBl. 


^^^  .;.*^^S?|,7 


STAKKINGE,    GAUNXHIXGi:.    DRUHIIING    OR    BEATING    ON    THE    EEETE 


FROM   CONSTANTINOPLE   TO   LONDON  55 

Allexander.  It  lyes  in  a  greate  plaine  with  high  hills  on 
either  side,  hard  by  a  River,  over  which  was  a  tymber 
bridge.  Hard  by  us  wee  discovered  the  carcasses  of  Two 
men  eaten  with  the  Doggs,  there  remaineinge  nothinge 
but  their  bones.  They  were  taken  some  six  dayes  past  in 
the  Mountaines  adjoyninge,  robbinge  and  killinge,  soe  were 
staked  alive \  after  throwne  downe  to  bee  eaten  by  Doggs. 

This  punnishment  of  Stakeinge  is  ordinarily  inflicted 
on  such  kinde  of  Offenders,  which  is  by  driveinge  with  a 
great  Sledge  a  bigge,  longe,  sharpe,  poynted  pole  in  att 
their  Fundament  quite  through  their  Body,  untill  it  come 
forth  betwene  head  and  shoulders  ^  The  Malefactor  is 
first  laid  on  the  Ground  flatt  on  his  Belly  with  ropes  tied 
to  his  feete,  where  divers  hold  on  and  pull,  one  or  two 
kneeling  on  his  backe  to  keepe  him  from  strugglinge ; 
while  another,  att  the  farther  end,  with  a  Mall^  or  sledge 
beateth  it  into  his  body.  Then  they  sett  the  Pole  an  end, 
where  the  body  is  to  remaine  three  dayes,  and  continueth 
alive  ordinarily  Eight  or  nine  howres,  sometymes  more. 
Myself  was  present  att  one  of  theis  Executions  att  Con- 
stantinople, where  I  heard  the  blowes  of  the  Mall,  and  the 
most  horrible  and  fearefull  Crye  of  the  Tortured  wretch  ; 
but  hee  sodainely  left  off,  even  as  the  Stake  was  through 
his  Body,  all  though  hee  lived  and  spake  many  howres 
after.  I  could  not  well  come  neere  to  see  him  for  the 
presse  of  people  till  hee  was  sett  uppl 

Some    are    executed    by   Gaunchinge.      Gaunches®   are 


^  See  the  Journey  of  Edward  Barton,  Esq.,  in  Purchas  His 
Pilgrintes,  Book  viii.  ch.  9,  p.   1355. 

2  In  the  British  Museum  copy  of  Mundy's  Travels,  Harl.  MS., 
2286,  the  description  of  Staking  ends  here. 

2  i.e.  a  mallet. 

*  For  similar  accounts  of  Staking,  see  the  Voyage  of  John  Sander- 
son in  Purchas  His  Pilgrinies,  Book  ix.  ch.  16,  p.  1623 ;  Lithgow,  Paine- 
full  Peregrinations,  p.  154  ;  and  Raw  I.  MS.,  C.  799,  fol.  30  b. 

•^  Gaunch  or  ganch,  an  obsolete  word  from  the  French  ganche, 
Ital.  ganciare,  gancio,   a   hook,  is   the   apparatus   employed   in   the 


56  A  JOURNEY   OVERLAND 

great,  sharpe,  poynted  Iron  Hookes  of  about  a  yard  and 
a  halfe  in  Compasse,  which  are  fastned  on  a  high  paire  of 
Gallowes,  three  hookes  on  each  side.  On  the  two  side 
Timbers  of  the  said  Gallowes  (which  goe  four  or  five  yards 
higher  then  the  hookes)  there  is  annother  Beame  over- 
thwart,  on  which  are  fastned  acrosse  three  lesser,  over  each 
paire  of  hookes  one,  haveinge  litle  Pullies  att  their  ends, 
which  lye  right  over  the  poynts  of  the  said  hookes.  Soe 
the  Offender,  haveinge  his  hands  and  feete  made  fast 
together  behinde  his  back,  is  by  them  hoysed  upp,  and, 
on  a  suddaine  lett  fall  upon  one  of  the  said  hookes,  where 
hee  must  hange  three  dayes  likewise^  lett  it  Catch  where 
it  will,  breast,  shoulders,  or  thighes  ;  but  most  commonly 
it  runns  in  at  their  bellies  and  out  att  their  Backe,  and 
may  remaine  alive  a  whole  day  or  more^. 

Others  are  hanged,  although  there  are  noe  publique 
Gallowes  nor  Gibbetts,  as  I  could  see,  but  on  Trees ;  and 
if  it  bee  in  a  Towne,  upon  some  end  of  a  beame  stickinge 
out  of  any  mans  wall  or  howse,  or  any  other  place  where 
they  can  conveniently  fasten  a  Rope^. 

Weomen  offenders  are  bound  in  a  Sack,  and  in  the 
night  with  great  silence  throwne  in  the  Sea,  haveing 
stones  made  fast  thereto  to  sinck  them*. 

Theis  are  the  punishments  (amonge  the  rest)  wherewith 
Malefactors  are  putt  to  Death  att  Constantinople. 

execution  of  criminals  by  ganching.  See  Murray,  Oxford  English 
Dictionary,  where  the  earhest  quotation  for  the  word  is,  1625 — 1626. 

1  The  British  Museum  copy,  Harl.  MS.,  2286,  has  "  till  hee  dyes." 

^  For  other  accounts  of  "gaunching,"  see  the  Voyage  of  John 
Sanderson  in  Purchas  His  Pilgrimes,  Book  ix.  ch.  16,  p.  1628;  Rawl. 
MS.,  C.  799,  fol.  30  b  ;  and  Th^venot,  Travels  into  the  Levant,  Part  i. 
p.  68  f. 

^  See  the  Voyage  of  John  Sanderson  in  Purchas  His  Pilgrimes, 
Book  ix.  ch.  16,  p.  1628;  and  Du  Loir,  Voyages,  p.  187.  Bargrave, 
Mawl.  MS.,  C.  799,  fol.  30  b,  says  that  Jews  were  commonly  seized 
.u^pon  and  compelled  to  perform  the  duties  of  the  hangman,  the  nearest 
l)eam  serving  as  gallows. 

*  See  Sandys,  Travels,  p.  52,  and  Dumont,  A  New  Voyage  to  the 
Leva7it,  p.  241. 


FROM   CONSTANTINOPLE   TO   LONDON  5/ 

For  smaller  Crimes,  they  are  beaten  on  the  feete  (some 
terme  it  Drubbinge)\  In  this  manner.  First,  there  is  a 
good  big  Stacke^  with  a  small  rope  unto,  and  with  which 
the  Offenders  feete  are  made  fast,  and  soe  held  upp 
betwene  Two,  his  body  lyeinge  on  the  ground,  while  other 
two  with  two  prettie  small  Cudgells  alternatively,  or  one 
after  an  other,  lay  him  on  the  soules  of  his  feete,  whereon 
att  most  the  Offender  hath  but  a  paire  of  thinn  Pumps, 
unto  such  a  number  of  blowes  as  hee  shalbe  thought  to 
disserve  ;  A  terrible  paine  by  report  of  those  that  have 
felt  it.  This  is  the  extreamest  manner  of  its  execution, 
for  ordinarily  one  man  serveth  to  hold  upp  his  feete  while 
the  other  striketh  thereon^. 

One  punishment  more  I  saw  inflicted  on  Two  weomen, 
the  youngest  of  them  for  playing  the  Harlott  and  the  elder 
for  being  her  Bawde.  They  were  sett  on  Asses  backs,  their 
faces  all  besmeared  with  Soote,  dirt  and  filth,  their  heads, 
necks,  sholders  and  bosomes  over  layed  and  hung  round 
with  the  Intrailes,  gutts  and  garbidge  of  some  Sheep  or 
other  beasts,  with  the  Excrament  adhearinge,  and  in  this 
sweet  pickle  they  were  conducted  through  the  Streets  of 
Gallata,  etts.^ 

What  I  relate  of  theis  Sundrey  punishments  is  partly 
by  my  owne  knowledge  as  an  Eye  Witnes,  and  partly  by 
the  generall  and  Common  Report  of  the  Inhabitants^ 

1  The  descriptions  of  the  punishments  of  "Drubbinge"  and 
"  Shameinge,"  as  well  as  of  the  "  Three  Severall  sorts  of  Swingings  " 
are  omitted  in  the  British  Museum  copy,  Harl.  MS.,  2286. 

2  Stock. 

^  See  Poullet,  Nouvelles  Relations  dii  Leva?ti,  vol.  i.  p.  348 ;  and 
Thdvenot,  Travels  mto  the  Levant.,  Part  i.  pp.  66  and  68. 

*  In  the  Voyage  of  John  Sanderson,  in  Purchas  His  Pilgriines, 
Book  ix.  ch.  16,  p.  1623,  a  similar  punishment  is  described  for  false 
witnesses. 

See  Poullet,  Nouvelles  Relations  dii  Levant,  vol.  i.  p.  348 ;  and 
Dumont,  A  New  Voyage  to  the  Levant,  p.  267. 

^  The  value  of  Mundy's  MS.  is  enhanced  by  his  abstention  from 
using,  as  his  own,  the  experiences  of  other  travellers. 


58  A  JOURNEY   OVERLAND 

Theis  three,  vizt.  Stakeing,  Gaunching  and  Drubbinge 
are  (for  the  better  apprehension)  expressed  by  Figures  on 
the  other  side\ 

To  divert  your  thoughts  from  those  most  creuell  and 
Torturinge  punishments,  I  will  digresse  to  some  of  their 
pastimes,  and  amonge  the  rest  the  severall  Sorts  of 
Swinginge  used  in  their  Publique  rejoyceings  att  their 
Feast  of  Biram^. 

First  there  is  erected  (as  it  were)  an  exceedinge  high 
paire  of  Gallowes,  parralell  with  the  Topps  of  their  howses, 
from  whence  descends  three  Ropes,  where  unto  is  fastned 
a  trianguler  board  which  hangeth  about  three  foote  from 
the  ground,  on  which  the  partie  sitts  that  is  to  bee  swunge, 
if  a  litle  Boy  hee  comonly  is  made  fast,  although  others 
more  hardy  hold  fast  themselves.  Then  four  or  five 
fellowes  first  with  their  hands  give  them  a  litle  way^ 
haveing  ready  certen  yards  of  Cerse^  webb,  Clapp  it 
before  him  att  his  comeing  backe,  lettinge  it  goe  soe  farr 
as  it  may,  then  forcibly  pull  him  backe  againe.  Thus 
continueinge  untill  he  come  to  a  great  high,  the  Musique 
playing  all  the  while.  But  much  more  doth  a  man  doe 
alone  without  any  helpe,  soe  that  only  with  a  certaine 
Carriage  of  his  body  hee  swingeth  himself  levell  with  the 
Topps  of  the  Timber,  which  may  seeme  strange  to  some, 
though  not  so  much  if  any  one  would  make  tryall ;  For 
once  haveinge  gotten  the  least  motion,  every  tyme  he 
ascends,  forward  or  backward  to  raise  himself  upright, 
and  in  fallinge  to  contracte  himselfe  close  towards  his 
feete,  and  thus  every  Turne  he  will  gaine  untill  hee  come 
to  the  highte  aforesaid,  with  soe  swifte  a  motion,  equalling 
the  flight  of  a  Bird  in  the  Ayre. 


^  See  illustration  facing  p.  55. 

2  See  Th^venot,   Travels  into  the  Levant^  Part  i.  p.  42  f.  for  an 
account  of  the  observance  of  the  Bairam  in  his  time. 

3  r^narcf^ 


UREE    SEVERALL    SORTS   OF   SWINGINGS 


FROM   CONSTANTINOPLE   TO   LONDON  59 

Other  twoe  sorts  there  are,  lesse  dangerous  and  trouble- 
some. One  is  Hke  a  Craine  wheele  att  Customhowse 
Key^  and  turned  in  that  Manner,  whereon  Children  sitt  on 
little  seats  hunge  round  about  in  severall  parts  thereof, 
And  though  it  turne  right  upp  and  downe,  and  that  the 
Children  are  sometymes  on  the  upper  part  of  the  wheele, 
and  sometymes  on  the  lower,  yett  they  alwaies  sitt 
upright  I 

The  third  sort  is  like  a  great  Cart  Wheele,  on  whose 
Circumference  are  fastned  litle  seats,  whereon  the  Children 
beinge  sett,  the  wheele  is  putt  about,  they  all  goeing  round 
Horizontallwise^  Theis  two  latter  only  servinge  for  litle 
Children  I 

The  three  sorts  of  Swinginge  beforementioned  are  also 
expressed  in  the  Figure  on  the  other  side^ 

Beinge  att  Philippopolis,  as  in  fol.  5^  understandinge 
that  the  Plague  was  in  that  Cittie,  wee  pitched  on  thother 
side  of  it  by  the  bancks  of  a  river  as  is  before  mentioned, 
and  our  people  warned  not  to  goe  unto  it  on  any  occasion''. 

^  The  old  Customhouse  "near  to  the  Tower  of  London,"  was  built 
by  John  Churchman,  Sheriff  of  London,  in  1385.  See  Stow,  Survey 
of  London.,  Book  v.  p.  114.  Stow  also  refers  to  the  "Custom  House 
Key"  as  follows  (Book  ii.  p.  53),  "The  present  Names  of  the  Keys 
or  Wharfs  lying  on  the  South  Side.. .Custom  House  Key... .But 
above  all  is  the  Custom  House :  Which  being  consumed  by  the  Fire 
of  London  1666,  is  rebuilt  in  a  much  more  magnificent  and  uniform 
manner."  As  Stow  has  no  reference  to  the  "  Craine  wheele  "  men- 
tioned by  Mundy,  it  is  probable  that  this  also  was  destroyed  in  the 
Great  Fire  of  1666. 

^  The  contrivance  here  described  appears  to  be  similar  to  the  now 
famous  "  Great  Wheel "  at  Earl's  Court. 

3  This  "  s^ying"  is  the  "  Merry-go-round,"  still  so  popular  at  English 
country  fairs. 

*  In  no  other  contemporary  writer  on  Turkey  or  the  Turks  have  I 
found  any  allusion  to  the  very  common  oriental  pastime  of  swinging, 
although  the  various  modes  of  punishment  receive  full  attention  and 
are  described  in  detail. 

^  See  illustration  facing  p.  58. 

^  i.e.  fol.  5  of  the  Rawlinson  MS..,  p.  54  of  this  volume. 

''In  the  British  Museum  copy,  Harl.  MS..,  2286,  there  is  only  the 
remark,  "  Heere  wee  understood  the  plague  was  within  the  Cittie." 


60  A   JOURNEY   OVERLAND 

Noate :  that  from  Constantinople  unto  Adrianople  is  a 
plaine  Champion  Countries  without  either  Tree  or  bush 
exceptinge  att  Townes  or  Villages",  But  from  Adrianople 
hither,  although  the  like  plaine  ground,  yett  over  growne 
with  woods  and  Bushes  of  Oake  for  the  most  parti 

TJie  18///.  May,  1620.  Wee  came  to  this  place  (Tatar- 
bazargick,  15  miles)-*,  where,  having  dined,  wee  past  forward 
to  a  Christian  village  (Yengheekeoy,  10  miles) ^,  and  there 
remained  that  night. 

The  igth.  May,   1620.     Departinge  from   Yenheekeoy, 


^  i.e.  open  ground,  of  the  nature  of  downs,  not  necessarily  flat 
countr)-. 

^  See  the  descriptions  by  PouUet  and  Pococke  of  the  country  be- 
tween Adrianople  and  Constantinople,  quoted  in  notes  on  pp.  46  and  48. 

^  Compare  Busbequius,  Travels  into  Turkey,  p.  30,  "  Before  a  Man 
descends  into  that  Plain  that  is  over  against  Philippopolis,  he  must  go 
through  a  Forest." 

*  Still  called  Tatar  Bazarjik.  Des  Hayes  has  Basargicq ;  vide 
Appendix  F.  Compare  Poullet,  Nou7>elles  Relations  dii  Levant, 
vol.  i.  p.  177,  "Tatar  bazargik,  un  des  plus  gros  bourgs,  ou  il  y  a  un 
des  plus  beaux  Caravanserails  que  j'eusse  point  veu  en  Turquie,  avec 
une  belle  horloge  qui  sonne,  et  qui  d^couvre  la  reverie  de  ceux  qui 
disent  que  I'Alcoran  defend  les  cloches  ;  n'y  ayant  presque  pas  un 
Turc  de  consideration  qui  n'aie  une  montre  sonnante,  avec  son  reveil- 
matin."  In  his  map  Poullet  spells  Tatar  Bazarjik,  Thatar  basardgin  ; 
and,  in  a  map  of  181 1  (B.M.  43315.  18),  the  place  appears  as  Tzapar- 
Bazarjik. 

°  The  two  contiguous  villages,  named  in  the  text  Yengheekeoy  and 
Yelkeeoy,  seem  to  have  been  pretty  freely  mixed  up  by  the  old 
travellers.  Thus  (1621),  Des  Hayes  {vide  Appendix  F)  calls  them 
Janicoli  or  Novocelo.  In  a  map  of  1650  (B.M.  43315.  9)  they  also 
appear  as  Janicoli  or  Novocelo.  Poullet,  in  his  map  (165S),  names 
them  Novathelo  and  Lebevitha.  A  map  of  1690  (B.M.  43335.  3) 
gives  Jancoli  and  Novoceylo.  Half  a  century  later  a  map  of  1744 
(B.M.  28195.  -2)  has  Novaithelai  and  Yesnikoi.  Taylor,  Travels 
from  England  to  India  in  1789,  vol.  ii.  p.  310,  has  Senichoi.  A  map 
of  181 1  (B.M.  43315.  18)  gives  Novoselo.  Kiepert's  map  of  1853 
(B.M.  43315.  8)  has  Nawoselo.  Lastly,  a  map  of  1856  (B.M. 
43315.  30)  gives  Nowi  Khan.  In  the  most  modern  maps  only  one 
village,  Novi  Khan,  or  Yeni  Khan,  appears. 

Confusion  in  the  names  of  oriental  villages  is  quite  common, 
especially  in  hilly  country,  and  there  is  nothing  unusual  in  the  dis- 
crepancies noticed  above.  The  names  appear  to  refer  to  two  separate 
villages  or  to  detached  parts  of  the  same  village  in  the  vernacular 
or  translated  forms.  Yengi  kytcy  means  in  Turkish  "the  new 
village." 


FROM   CONSTANTINOPLE   TO   LONDON  6l 

wee  entred  Mountaines\  deserts^  and  thick  woods,  where 
usually  repaire  Troopes  of  robbers  to  the  spoyle  of 
Passengers^,  by  reason  of  which  my  Lord  caused  every 
one  to  goe  on  foote  with  their  Armes,  to  bee  the  more 
ready  if  occasion  should  offer,  but  God  bee  praised,  there 
was  none. 

Att  six  miles  end  wee  came  to  Yelkeeoy*,  a  village  of 
poore  Christians,  and  four  miles  further,  to  Cappeekeoy^ 
an  other  poore  village,  where  is  to  bee  seene  a  great,  high, 
ruinous  Arch  of  brick,  by  reporte  built  by  Allexander. 
Betwene  theis  two  villages^,  wee  mett  a  man  beatinge  on 
a  drumme'',  sett  there  of  purpose  to  advise  travellers 
whether  there  bee  theeves  or  noe,  hee  abideinge  in  the  most 
daungerous  place  of  all.  Soe  wee  came  to  Yteeman 
(4  miles)^,  lyinge  in  a  vallie^,  where  are  ten  other  Townes 


^  i.e.  the  slopes  of  the  Balkans,  separating  Rumelia  from  Bulgaria. 
These  are  from  three  to  five  thousand  feet  high,  and  are  covered  with 
thick  v/oods  on  their  tops  and  sides. 

2  i.e.  uninhabited  spots,  not  necessarily  without  vegetation.  Pindar 
and  his  party  were  now  traversing  the  Pass  of  Kapulu  Derbend,  or 
Pass  of  the  Gate  (Mpi,  gate,  derbend,  pass)  so  named  from  the  Trajan 
Gate,  the  last  remains  of  which  were  demolished  in  1855. 

3  The  conditions  have  not  much  altered  since  Mundy's  time,  for 
guides  were,  at  any  rate  until  quite  lately,  hired  at  Tatar  Bazarjik 
to  protect  the  traveller  from  the  danger  of  brigands  among  the  passes 
of  the  Balkans. 

*  See  note  5  on  p.  60. 

^  The  modern  Kapuli.  This  place  has  been  known  under  various 
spellings.  Des  Hayes  (1621)  has  Capili  Dervent  (see  Appendix  F). 
PouUet,  in  his  map  (1658),  has  VasiHta  Capili  Kioi.  A  map  of  1690 
(B.M.  43335.  3)  has  Capigi  Derrene.  Another  map  of  1744  (B.M. 
28195.  22)  has  Capitschik  or  Temircap.  In  Kiepert's  map  of  1867 
(B.M.  43305.  54)  the  place  appears  as  Kapoulou  Derbend. 

^  Here  the  author  has  a  marginal  note,  "Thermopilae  conceaved 
to  bee  aboutt  this  place."  Mundy  is  alluding  to  Blount's  remarks  on 
Thermopylae,  which  will  be  found  in  Appendix  A. 

''  See  Blount,  A  Voyage  into  the  Levant,  quoted  in  Appendix  A. 

*  The  modern  Ikhtiman.  Des  Hayes  has  Ictiman ;  see  Appendix 
F.  Poullet,  in  his  map,  has  Kivan  pachnum,  and,  in  a  map  of  1744 
(B.M.  28195.  22)  the  place  is  given  as  Hischtimon. 

^  Here  the  author  has  a  marginal  note,  "And  hereabouts  is  the 
Mountain  Rodope,  River  Strimon,  where  Orpheus  lived  etts.  Vid: 
fol.  I."     Mundy  is  again  alluding  to  Blount.      Vide  Appendix  k.. 


62  A  JOURNEY   OVERLAND 

in  Sight.     Of  this  dayes  Journey,  ten  myles  through  woodie 
mountaines  and  the  rest  through  Inhabited  places. 

The  2Qth.  May,  1620.  Wee  came  to  the  Cittie  of 
Sophia^  betwene  which  and  Iteeman  wee  mett  another 
drummer,  there  beinge  an  other  daungerous  place,  where 
Companies  have  bene  robd  and  killed.  Att  Our  approach 
wee  sawe  a  great  number  of  Tents,  makeinge  a  gallant 
shewe,  which  wee  understood  belonged  to  the  Beglerbeg 
of  Gretia^,  now  bound  to  the  Black  Sea  against  the  Cas- 

^  See  the  accounts  of  Sophia  by  Des  Hayes  and  Blount  in 
Appendix  A  and  Appendix  F.  Compare  Busbequius,  Travels  into 
Turkey,  p.  27,  "  Sophia  is  a  Town  big  enough,  and  well  inhabited  both 
by  Citizens  and  Strangers:  It  was  heretofore  the  Royal  Seat  of  the 
King  of  Bulgaria."  Compare  also  PouUet,  Nouvelles  Relations  du 
Levant,  vol.  i.  p.  168,  "  Sophie  est  plus  petite  qu'Orleans,  quoy  qu'elle 
soit  la  Capitale  et  le  siege  du  Bacha  de  la  Romelia,  boiieuse  dans  tous 
ces  dehors,  ou  la  bont^  du  terrain  laisse  un  acces  fort  desagreable, 
mais  assez  raisonnablement  batie  par  dedans,  avec  quantity  de 
maisons,  lesquelles  ont  une  cymetrie  fort  approchante  a  celle  des 
nostres." 

A  map  of  1690  (B.M.  43335.  3)  gives  Sophia  as  Sophia  Triadizza 
or  Sardica;  and  a  map  of  181 1  (B.M.  43315.  18)  has  Scopia. 

^  i.e.  the  Viceroy  of  Rumelia.  The  title  begler-begi,  Bey  of  Beys, 
was  formerly  given  to  the  governors-general  of  Rumelia  {Rinneli, 
the  country  of  the  Greeks)  and  Anatolia.  Compare  the  following  con- 
temporary allusions  to  the  province  and  the  official  : — 

1607.  "The  Degrees  of  the  Turks. ...On  the  sixt  step  of 
honour  is  the  Bashaw  lifted  up,  who  is  a  principall  Viceroy. ..and 
according  to  the  dignity  and  majesty  of  the  place  called  Beglerbeg  : 
these  are  every  three  yeeres  mansuold  [a  puzzle  :  ?  Lat.  mansio,  a 
journey,  march  ;  possibly  a  corruption  of  Ar.  and  Turk.  7nanzil\  that 
is  to  say  remooved."     Gainsford,  Glory  of  England,  p.  202. 

1610.  "Greece,  tearmed  by  the  Turkes,  Rum  Hi,  that  is,  the 
Romane  Country:  It  is  ruled  by  a  Beglerbeg  or  Bassa....This 
Beglerbeg  of  Greece  is  the  greatest  Commaunder  of  all  other  Bassaes 
in  the  Turkish  Provinces  of  Europe."  Lithgow,  Paitiefidl  Peregrina- 
tions, p.  73. 

1616.  "Beglerbeg  signifieth  Lord  of  Lords  :  of  which  there  are 
wont  to  be  two  ;  one  in  Europe,  another  in  Asia  :  but  by  Solyman 
increased,  that  though  Romania  and  Natolia  have  still  the  chiefe 
titles,  yet  in  Europe  are  foure  others."     Purchas,  Pilgrijnage,  p.  292. 

1621.  "Tous  les  Beglerbeis  s'appellent  communement  Bashas. 
Or,  Bascha,  qui  en  Turc  veut  dire  teste,  est  une  qualite  que  les  princi- 
paux  de  I'Estat  prennent,  lors  qu'ils  ont  exerc^  quelque  gouverne- 
ment.  Mais  Beglerbey,  s'entend  d'un  gouvernement  general  de 
Province,  que  le  grand  Seigneur  donne  pour  tant  et  si  peu  qu'il  luy 
plaist:  et  ce  mot  de  Beglerbey  signifie  Seigneur  des  Seigneurs."  Des 
Hayes,    Voiage  de  Levant,  p.  45. 

1635.     "There  are  two  Beglierbegs  (that  is  to  say  Lord  of  Lords) 


FROM   CONSTANTINOPLE   TO   LONDON  63 

sacks\  a  people  of  Russia  whoe  did  much  molest  the  Turkes 
in  those  parts.  This  Cittie  lyeth  in  a  plaine^,  there  being 
about  twenty  Townes  and  villages  in  the  said  plaine  all  in 
sight  togeather. 

The  7.\st.  May,  1620.  His  Lordshipp  went  to  visitt  the 
Beglerbeg  att  a  howse  hee  had  within  the  Cittie,  where, 
when  hee  came,  after  salutations  on  each  side,  there  was 
Sherbett  brought  for  them  and  the  rest.  It  is  a  drincke 
made  of  Sugar,  Juice  of  Lemmons  and  water,  with  which 
the  better  sort  mingle  Amber,  Muske,  Roses,  Violetts,  etts., 
this  beinge  the  ordinary  drincke  of  great  men,  their  Lawe 
forbiddinge  them  wyne ;  the  poorer  sort  drinke  only 
waters  Soe  haveinge  past  halfe  an  hower  in  Comple- 
mentall  conference,  they  tooke  leave  each  of  other.  In  the 
outward  Court  of  the  howse  there  was  a  Standard  sett  upp, 


the  one  of  Romania  or  Greece,  the  other  of  Natolia  or  Asia  the  lesse." 
Grimston,  The  History  of  the  Iniperiall  Estate  of  the  Grand  Seigneurs, 
p.  169.  See  also  Blount's  remarks  on  the  "Beglerbeg  of  Greece" 
quoted  in  Appendix  A. 

^  The  ravages  of  the  Cossacks  along  the  southern  coasts  of  the 
Black  Sea  had  become  a  serious  menace  to  the  peace  of  the  empire 
during  the  reign  of  Ahmad  L  In  1613  they  surprised  and  devastated 
the  city  of  Sinope. 

2  The  plain  is  watered  by  the  river  I  sea. 

^  Compare  the  following  contemporary  remarks  on  this  beverage  : — 

"Water  mixed  with  honey,  which  they  call  sherbert."  Gainsford, 
Glory  of  England,  p.  203. 

"Above  the  rest  (of  drinkes)  they  [the  Turks]  esteeme  Sherbets 
made  with  Sugar,  the  Juyce  of  Lemmons,  Peaches,  Apricocks,  Violets, 
or  other  Flowers,  Fruits,  and  Plumbes  as  each  country  affoords  ; 
these  are  dryed  together  into  a  consistence  reasonable  hard,  and 
portable  for  theire  use  in  warre,  or  else-where,  mingling  about  a 
spoonefuU  with  a  quart  of  water."  Blount,  A  Voyage  into  the  Levant, 
p.  105. 

"  Une  certaine  composition  qu'ils  appellent  chorbet,  fait  de  sucre, 
et  de  jus  de  limon,  d'essence  de  violette,  de  rose,  de  jasmin,  ou  de 
quelques  autres  odeurs  :  laquelle  se  conserve  des  annees  entieres  dans 
des  pots  de  fayance  ;  parce  qu'elle  n'est  pas  en  liqueur.  Elle  res- 
semble  a  la  durete  de  notre  castonnade  ;  on  en  delaye  une  ou  deux 
cueillerdes  dans  une  grande  tassde  d'eau,  quand  on  s'en  veut  servir." 
Poullet,  Relations  du  Levaiit,  vol.  i.  p.  109. 

See  also  Grimston's  description  of  "  Sorbet."  The  History  of  the 
Imperial  I  Estate  of  the  Grand  Seigneurs,  p.  141  ;  and  Delia  Valle, 
Voyages,  vol.  i.  p.  90. 


64  A  JOURNEY   OVERLAND 

Which  to  us  appeared  a  horse  taile  dyed  redd\  Other  sort 
there  are  questionlesse^.  For  att  my  beinge  att  Constanti- 
nople came  a  Persian  Ambassador  about  a  Confirmation  of 


1  The  Turkish  honorary  distinction  of  a  Standard  of  one  to 
seven  Horse-tails  arose  out  of  the  old  Turkman  custom  of  granting- 
the  right  to  display  a  Standard  of  one  or  more  Yak-tails  as  a  reward 
to  officers  of  high  rank  for  exceptional  military  services.  The  earliest 
mention  of  it  among  the  Osmanli  Turks  appears  to  be  in  1288  A.D., 
when  Osman  I.  received  from  the  Seljuki  Sultan  Alau'ddin  III.  the 
following  insignia — a  banner,  a  drum,  a  robe,  a  sword  and  a  horse-tail 
by  way  of  recognition  of  his  importance.  Vide  D'Oksza,  Histoire 
de  VEinpire  Ottoman,  vol.  i.  p.  35,  and  Von  Hammer,  Histoire  de 
VEnipire  Ottomatt,  vol.  i.  p.  75.  Vide  also  Irvine,  Army  of  the  Indian 
Moghuls,  p.  34  f. 

Compare  Delia  Valle  and  Tournefort  for  the  popular  stories  of  the 
origin  of  the  Horse-tail  Standard  : — "Six  Capigis  Bassis,  qui  sont  les 
Capitaines  des  Portiers  du  Grand  Seigneur  marchoient  en  suite  a 
cheval  avec  chaque  Compagnie  de  Capigis,  qui  precedoient  les 
Estendarts  Imperiaux,  trois  desquels  ne  sont  que  des  queues  de 
cheval,  au  bout  de  trois  lances  assez  longues ;  et  I'on  dit  que  cette 
coutume  n'est  introduite  que  depuis  qu'en  une  certaine  bataille,  apr^s 
que  I'Estendart  fut  pris  par  les  ennemis,  un  simple  soldat  coupa  la 
queue  de  son  cheval,  et  fit  merveilles,  I'ayant  attach^e  au  bout  d'une 
demipicque.  lis  s'en  sont  toujours  servis  comme  d'un  symbole 
d'honneur,  en  memoire  d'une  si  belle  action  :  quoy  que  I'on  die  que 
c'est  chez  les  Romains  que  cela  s'est  fait  et  que  les  Turcs  ne  s'en 
servent  qu'k  leur  imitation.  Quoy  qu'il  en  soit,  c'est  un  de  leurs 
principaux  Estendarts :  et  quand  le  Premier  Bassa  va  faire  la  guerre 
par  I'ordre  du  grand  Seigneur,  on  en  porte  toujours  trois  devant  luy, 
au  lieu  que  devant  les  autres  Chefs  inferieurs...I'on  n'en  porte 
qu'un."     Delia  Valle,    Voyages,  vol.  i.  p.  140  f. 

"The  Grand  Vizier  is  preceded  by  three  Horse-tails,  on  the  top  of 
each  of  which  is  a  gilded  Apple :  this  is  the  Military  Ensign  of  the 
Ottomans,  which  they  call  Thou  or  Thouy  itugh).  For  a  certain 
General  of  this  Nation,  they  say,  being  at  a  plunge  to  rally  his 
Troops,  who  had  lost  all  their  Standards,  thought  of  this  Device,  to 
cut  off  a  Horse's  Tail,  and  erect  it  on  the  point  of  a  Lance  :  the 
Soldiers  flock'd  to  this  new  Ensign,  and  came  off  with  Victory." 
Tournefort,  A  Voyage  into  the  Levant,  vol.  ii.  p.  20.  Facing  page  20, 
there  is  an  illustration  of  "A  Turkish  Standard  or  Horse-Tail,  call'd 
in  Turkey  Hou  or  Houy."  Q^Xi^iXid,,  Journal,  vol.  i.  p.  125  f.  has  a  full 
description  of  the  Turkish  "thou"  and  the  story  of  its  origin. 

Compare  also  Tavernier,  A  Relation  of  the  Grajid  Signior's 
Seraglio,  vol.  ii.  p.  88  f.,  "  The  Entrance  into  Constantinople  of  the 
Sultaness  on  the  Second  of  July  1668. ...The  Order  of  the  March.... 
There  appear'd  afterwards  Six  Capigis,  about  the  first  Coach.... 
They  had  each  of  them  a  Launce  in  his  hand  ;  and  in  the  Rear  of 
them,  there  appear'd  a  Horse-tail-Banner,  of  a  pale-red  colour, 
whereby  it  was  known,  that  some  Bassa's  were  coming  up.'' 

2  From  this  point  to  the  end  of  the  paragraph  is  an  addition  not 
found  in  the  copy  at  the  British  Museum.    Harl.  MS.,  2286. 


FROM    CONSTANTINOPLE   TO   LONDON  65 

a  peace  betwene  the  Gran  Signior  and  the  Kinge  of  Persia^ 
whoe  brought  with  hinn  a  great  Present  of  Silke,  both  rawe 
and  wrought,  Carpetts,  etts.  The  said  Ambassader  was 
received  into  the  Cittie  with  a  very  great,  rich  and  warHke 
shewe  of  horse  and  foote,  the  latter  all  Janizaries^,  whereof 
some  bands  or  Companies  had  each  man  a  whole  compleat 
Leopards  Skinn  over  his  shoulder,  whereon  he  carried  his 
peece  or  Gunn :  And  amonge  theire  troops  were  sundry 
Ensignes  on  the  Topp  of  longe  staves,  as  the  image  of 
some  fowle,  the  head  of  some  beast  and  other  figures, 
somewhat  resemblinge  the  manner  wee  see  deciphered  by 
Picture  in  Romaine  Battailes. 

The  22nd.  May,  1620.  Beinge  two  miles  in  our  way 
from  Sophia,  wee  were  overtaken  by  a  Chiawsh^  and 
twenty  Jannizaries  with  nine   waggons,  bound  for  Buda"*, 


1  The  "Persian  Ambassador"  was  Burun  Kasim  (Kasim  of  the 
Nose),  who  was  sent  by  Shah  'Abbas  to  Constantinople  in  1618  to 
confirm  the  terms  of  peace  between  Persia  and  the  Porte.  His  visit 
is  thus  described  in  the  Annals  of  Naima,  vol.  i.  p.  466,  "  The  Arrival 
of  a  Persian  ambassador.  In  the  month  of  Jemadi  I.  [a.H.  1026, 
A.D.  161 7]  the  Persian  ambassador,  Burun  Kasim,  sometimes  called 
Kasim  Beg,  but,  in  his  credentials,  All  Sultan  Khallfeh,  arrived  at 
Scutari  with  one  hundred  loads  of  silk,  four  elephants,  and  one 
rhinoceros,  with,  other  gifts  for  the  emperor  of  the  Ottomans.  From 
Scutari  he  passed  over  to  the  imperial  city,  and  was  lodged  in  the 
palace  of  Pertev  Pasha.  His  letter  to  the  emperor  specified,  in  all  its 
various  ramifications,  the  treaty  signed  by  KhalTl  Pasha."  The 
accuracy  of  Mundy  is  therefore  curiously  confirmed. 

2  See  note  2  on  p.  43. 

^  Turkish  chawush,  now- a -days  a  minor  military  officer,  a 
sergeant,  but  in  Mundy's  time  a  high  official.  Compare  Gainsford, 
Glory  of  England,  p.  201  f.,  "The  Degrees  of  the  Turks.  The  fift 
roome  is  supplyed  by  the  Chiaus,  a  degree  of  honourable  eminence 
and  may  ranke  with  our  Barons.  For  they  ride  in  velvet  gownes, 
silver-plated  saddles,  costly  stirrups,  and  rich  turbans." 

Compare  also  Knolles,  Historie  of  the  Turkes,  p.  1393,  "The 
Grand  Seignior  hath  also  certaine  officers  attending  on  him  to  the 
number  of  three  thousand,  whom  they  call  Chiaus,  which  are  as  it 
were  sergeant  at  amies.  These  are  men  well  esteemed  and  are  often 
employed  in  Embassies  to  forreine  Princes  :  They  also  carry  letters 
and  commendations  from  the  Prince  or  his  chiefe  Vizier,  and  they 
apprehend  offenders.  These  never  goe  to  the  Warre  but  when  the 
Sultan  is  there  in  person.     They  are  commanded  by  a  Chiaus  Bassa." 

*  Then  in  the  Turkish  Empire. 


66  A  JOURNEY   OVERLAND 

with  pay  for  the  Soldiers  there  in  Garrison.  The  Begler- 
beg^  sent  a  Couple  of  Soldiers  alonge  with  us  to  conducte 
us  in  our  way.  Att  noone  wee  dined  in  the  feilds  nere 
some  stony  hills,  haveinge  gone  about  ten  myles.  After 
dinner  wee  departed,  and  entringe  among  Rockie  Hills^ 
wee  were  overtaken  with  rayne,  where  wee  had  not  only 
a  dangerous  passage  by  reason  of  Theeves,  but  very 
troublesome  and  wearisome  by  reason  of  the  rockey, 
stony  way  and  durtie  weather.  Att  length  wee  came  to 
Zarebrode  (lo  miles)^  a  little  village,  where  wee  remained 
with  as  little  ease,  the  foule  weather  continueinge  all  night, 
and  Lodginge  very  scarse,  my  Lord  himselfe  beinge  glad 
to  take  parte  of  a  poore  mans  howse  with  the  poore  man, 
his  wife  and  Children. 

Tke  2'i,rd.  May,  1620.  Wee  came  to  Zarekeeoy  (8 
miles)*,  a  greate  Towne,  where  wee  remained  that  after- 
noone  by  reason  of  the  dirtie  way,  wearynesse  of  the 
horses,  as  alsoe  likelyhood  of  more  rayne.  But  the 
Chiawsh  and  Janizaries^  left  us,  and  went  forward,  their 
busines  requiring  more  hasfc.  In  this  Towne  was  a  small 
Castle,  and  little  river.  Also,  from  under  a  Hill  close  by, 
there  issueth  such  a  Spring  of  Water  that  is  imedeatly 
sufficient  to  drive  a  good  Mill. 

The   2^th.   May,    1620.      Accompanied    with    fourteen 


^  See  note  2  on  p.  62. 

^  For  a  description  of  the  country  between  Nissa  and  Sophia  see 
Appendix  F. 

2  The  modern  Zaribrod.  The  author's  distances  are  rather  mis- 
leading here.  Apparently  he  means  that  Zaribrod  was  ten  miles  from 
the  place  where  Pindar's  train  dined  and  not  from  Sophia,  the  last 
town  mentioned. 

*  The  modern  Pirot  or  Sharkoi,  the  former  being  the  Bulgarian 
and  the  latter  the  Turkish  name  of  the  place.  Des  Hayes  has 
Cherquioi  (see  Appendix  F),  and  Pouilet,  in  his  map,  has  Charkioi. 
Compare  Taylor,  Travels  fro7n  England  to  India  in  1789,  vol.  ii. 
p.  309,  "  Schiarchioi.  Here  you  have  fine  plains  and  the  rest  woods." 
In  a  map  of  1830  (B.M.  43625.  i)  the  place  appears  as  Csarda. 

^  See  note  2  on  p.  43. 


FROM   CONSTANTINOPLE   TO   LONDON  6/ 

Spahees^  or  horsemen,  wee  proceeded  (25  miles),  my  Lord 
haveinge  a  Commaundment  from  the  Gran  Signior  to  all 
Governors  and  Officers  where  hee  should  passe,  to  see  him 
safely  conducted  from  place  to  place^;  As  also  to  furnish 
him  with  such  provisions  and  necessaries  as  hee  should 
neede  att  the  charge  of  the  Greate  Turke.  But  my  Lord 
would  not  make  use  of  it  in  wronging  the  poore  Christians 
thereby,  for  the  aforesaid  Officers  would  perforce  take  from 
them  what  they  listed,  as  sheepe,  henns,  milke,  butter,  etts., 
without  giveinge  anie  pennie  for  it  but  blowes^. 

Wee  came  to  a  village  called  Curut  Chisme  (15  miles), 
as  much  as  to  say  a  drye  fountaine.  There  beinge  one 
abandoned  of  water"*,  as  the  village  was  of  Inhabitants,  by 
reason  of  the  great  tax  imposed  on  them  by  the  Governor 
of  the  Province,  which  they  being  not  able  to  pay,  fledd  for 
feare  of  farther  miserys,  the  Turks  grindeing  their  verie 
bones^,  for  all  the  benefitt  poore  Christians  can  make  by 

^  Stpdhi,  sepoy.  Compare  Gainsford,  Glory  of  England,  p.  201, 
"The  Degrees  of  the  Turks. ...The  fourth  place  is  appropriate  to 
the  Spahyes,  who  are  inferior  horsemen,  with  high  fathers  in  their 
strange  fashioned  hats,  somewhat  more  glorious  than  the  Janizaries, 
their  arming  as  also  the  Janizary,  keepes  some  correspondency  with 
the  Persian." 

Compare  also  Knolles,  Historic  of  the  Tiirkes,  p.  1391,  "The 
Turks  forces. ...His  horsemen  consist  of  Spahi.. .these  are  Christian 
slaves  bred  up  yong  in  the  Princes  Seraglio,  who  by  their  merits 
attaine  to  that  degree." 

2  The  same  protection  was  afforded  to  Des  Hayes  in  the  following 
year.  Twenty  mounted  Turks  guarded  the  Frenchman's  party  from 
Nisch  towards  Adrianople.     See  Appetidix  F. 

^  See  Keppel,  Narrative  of  a  four?tey  across  the  Balca?t,  vol.  i. 
p.  439,  for  similar  commandeering  of  goods  from  Christians  by  the 
Turks  in   1830. 

*  Turkish  qiirut  chesine,  dried-up  spring.  The  inhabitants  had 
returned  to  the  village  when  Des  Hayes  passed  through  it  in  162 1 
{vide  Appendix  F).  Des  Hayes  calls  the  place  Cruchismet.  A  map 
of  1650  (B.M.  43315.  9)  gives  Cruchisnat,  and  a  map  of  1690  (B.M. 
43315-  3)  gives  Cruschimit.  Poullet,  in  his  map  (1658),  has  Kourou 
Thehaemech.  Kiepert's  map  of  1853  (B.M.  43315.  8)  calls  the  place 
Krouschvitza. 

^  See  Lithgow,  Painefull  Peregrinations,  p.  152,  for  Turkish 
oppression  of  Christians.  See  also  the  remarks  of  Des  Hayes  in 
Appendix  F. 


68  A  JOURNEY   OVERLAND 

the  ground,  their  Cattell  and  Labour  is  hardly  enough  to 
supply  the  Governors  impositions  layed  upon  them,  and  to 
finde  them  bread,  soe  that  they  are  in  worse  case  then 
Slaves. 

From  thence  wee  came  to  another  village  of  Christians, 
named  Palanca  (5  miles)\  where  is  a  certen  fence  made  of 
boughes  of  trees  woven  on  great  Stakes,  as  wee  make  our 
frithes^,  clapt  on  the  out  side  with  morter,  there  beinge  two 
of  the  said  frithes  about  three  yards  a  sunder,  the  space 
betwene  beinge  fill'd  upp  with  greate  stones  which  serves 
for  the  wall ;  and  soe  it  goeth  fower  square  of  a  great  com- 
passe,  there  dwellinge  within  sixty  or  seventy  Turkes,  the 
place  beinge  a  Shelter  for  all  people  hereabouts  to  retire 
unto,  because  that,  from  the  borderinge  mountaines  doe 
often  repaire  Troops  of  Christians  and  doe  much  harmed 
this  beinge  in  Hungarie^  Here  is  alsoe  to  bee  scene  the 
foundation  of  some  Castle  or  great  building  of  Bricke. 

1  "  Palanca  a  wooden  castle."  Author's  marginal  note.  It  is  the 
Turkish  palangha,  a  small  fort  or  stockade.  The  village  mentioned 
by  Mundy  is  still  known  as  Musa  Palanka,  Bela  Palanka,  or  Ak 
Palanka.  In  a  map  of  1690  (B.M.  43335.  3)  it  appears  as  Mehemet 
Bascha  Palanka.  In  a  map  of  1744  (B.M.  28195.  22)  it  is  simply 
Mustapha  Basa ;  and  again  in  181 1  (B.M.  43315.  18)  it  is  Mustafa 
Pacha.  In  1822  (B.M.,  S.  205.  40)  it  appears  as  Moussa  Pacha 
Palanka.  Des  Hayes  (1621)  calls  it  the  "  Pallanque  de  Mehemet 
Bascha."  See  his  account  of  "  Pallanques "  in  Appendix  F.  See 
also  Blount's  remarks  quoted  in  Appendix  A. 

2  A  frith  is  a  hedge  or  a  hurdle,  made  of  wattled  brushwood.  In 
Dorset  such  hurdles  are  known  as  "riths." 

^  Compare  Busbequius,  Travels  i7tto  Turkey,  p.  24,  "  The  Chris- 
tians being  wearied  out  with  the  Pride  and  Insolency  of  the  Turks,  do 
many  times  withdraw  themselves  from  the  common  Road  into  desert 
Places  ;  which  tho'  they  are  less  fruitful,  yet  are  more  secure  ;  and  so 
leave  their  better  Possessions  to  the  domineering  Turks."  Des  Hayes 
says  that  a  large  number  of  Spahis  and  Janissaries  were  posted  at 
Nissa  and  in  the  neighbourhood  for  the  security  of  the  roads  and 
to  hold  the  ten  thousand  Christians  of  the  vicinity  in  subjection.  See 
Appendix  F. 

'*  The  author  is  incorrect  in  assigning  the  district  around  Nissa 
to  "  Hungary."  The  part  to  which  he  refers  was  in  Servia.  By 
"  Hungary "  Mundy  seems  to  mean  a  Christian  land.  Des  Hayes, 
Voyage  de  Levant,  p.  26  f.,  gives  the  extent  of  Hungary  in  1621  as. 
follows  : — "  Le    Royaume    de    Hongrie    a   este   cogneu   des    anciens. 


FROM   CONSTANTINOPLE   TO   LONDON  69 

The  2i^tJi.  May,  1620.  With  thirty-one  soldiers  out  of 
the  said  Palanca  or  fence,  wee  departed,  whoe  conducted 
us  halfe  way  to  Nice  (29  miles)\  soe  farre  in  the  waie 
being  more  daungerous  for  theeves  then  any  wee  past 
hitherto,  and  noe  lesse  troublesome,  being  mountainous, 
dirtie  and  stoney^.  Soe  my  Lord,  giveinge  them  some 
gratification,  they  were  dismissed  with  a  Certificate  from 
my  Lord  howe  they  had  safely  conducted  us  hitherto, 
written  in  Turkish  by  signior  Dominico^  with  my  Lords 
hande  and  seale  to  it.  The  rest  of  the  way,  although  not 
soe  dangerous  and  mountainous,  yett  altogeather  soe 
stonie  and  dirtie,  even  to  Nice  it  selfe.  Heere  is  a  bridge 
called  Nicea  (20  miles),  and  a  River  by  that  name^  over 
which  the  bridge  lyeth^  A  Castle  none  of  the  best,  and 
a  paire  of  greate  old  fower  square  ruinated  Brick  walls. 


sous  le  nom  de  la  basse  Panonie.  II  est  borne  du  coste  de  Midy 
par  la  Save,  qui  le  divise  de  la  Servie,  et  de  la  Croatie.  Au 
Septentrion  il  est  separe  de  la  Pologne  par  les  monts  Carpatiens.  II 
a  I'Autriche,  la  Moravia,  et  la  Stirie  au  Couchant,  et  au  Levant  la 
Transilvanie  et  la  Servie." 

Lithgow  had  a  very  low  opinion  of  the  Hungarians.  Compare  his 
Painefull  Peregri7iations,  p.  414 f.,  "The  Hungarians  have  ever  been 
thistuous,  treacherous  and  false,  so  that  there  one  brother  will  hardly 
trust  another,  which  infidelity  among  themselves  and  distracted 
deceitfuU  governours,  was  the  chiefest  Cause  of  their  overthrow  and 
subjection  under  Infidels." 

1  The  modern  Nisch,  or  Nissa.  In  a  map  of  1690  (B.M.  43335.  3) 
the  place  is  called  Nizza,  and  in  one  of  1744  (B.M.  28195.  22)  it 
appears  as  Naissus. 

2  Pindar  and  his  train  were  now  traversing  a  pass  over  the 
Balkans.  Compare  Taylor,  Travels  from  England  to  India  in  1789, 
vol.  ii.  p.  309,  "  Nissa.  Here  you  pass  through  a  very  dangerous 
Country,  being  all  woods  and  infested  with  robbers."  See  also  the 
remarks  of  Des  Hayes  on  the  road  to  Nissa  in  Appendix  F. 

^  The  Dragoman.     See  p.  42,  note  5,  for  an  account  of  this  man. 

*  Now  known  as  the  river  Nissava. 

^  "  I  say  the  River  is  called  Nicea  haveing  a  bridge  over  it." 
Author's  marginal  no'te.  Des  Hayes  calls  the  river  "Nice"  or 
"  Nichava."  He  says  that  it  separates  Servia  from  Bulgaria,  Nisch 
being  then  under  the  government  of  Buda  and  the  country  on  the 
other  side  of  the  river  under  the  Governor  of  Greece.  See 
Appendix  F. 

Compare  Busbequius,  Travels  into  Turkey^  p.  21,  "At  a  small 
Distance  from  Jagodna,  we  met  with  a  little  River  which  the  Neigh- 
bouring Inhabitants  called  Nissus,  and  we  kept  it  on  our  right  Hand 


70  A  JOURNEY  OVERLAND 

The  26th.  Ditto.  About  seven  miles  from  Nice,  wee 
overtook  the  Chiaush  with  his  twenty  Jannissaries,  whoe 
formerly  left  us^,  And  at  Roshneah^  wee  lodged  in  a  good 
Cane^  the  way  beinge  faire  and  plaine,  although  desert 
and  full  of  woods. 

The  2yth.  May,  Anno  1620.  Wee  past  by  Paracheeno 
(6  miles)*,  a  small  village,  and  from  thence  four  miles 
further  to  a  bigg  river^  without  a  Bridge,  soe  that  wee 
spent  four  howres  att  least  in  passinge  our  selves  and 
necessaries **,  and  soe  came  to  Yagola  (10  miles)'',  where  is 
another  Palanca,  or  wooden  fence  :  heere  wee  pitched  for 
this  night. 


almost  all  the  Way  till  we  came  to  Nissa;  yea,  and  beyond  the  Town, 
upon  the  Bank  thereof  were  there  some  Remains  of  an  old  Roman 
Way. ...As  for  the  Town  of  Nissa,  for  that  Country,  it  is  a  decent 
one,  and  full  of  inhabitants." 

Compare  also  PouUet,  Nouvelles  Relations  dn  Levant,  vol.  i. 
p.  164,  "  Nous  continuames  de  suivre  nostre  route  par  des  mar^cages, 
quantite  d'arbres,  quelques  petits  villages  par  Nissa  petite  ville, 
laquelle  donne  son  nom  k  Nissava  petite  riviere,  et  par  les  detours  du 
fond  d'une  seconde  montagne." 

See  also  Blount's  account  of  "  Nisse"  quoted  in  Appendix  A. 

^  See  p.  66. 

2  The  modern  Rashan  or  Razan.  Des  Hayes  calls  the  place 
Razena.  See  Appendix  F.  A  map  of  1830  (B.M.  43625.  i)  has 
Raschnia. 

3  Khan.     See  note  i  on  p.  46  and  note  5  on  p.  52. 

*  The  modern  Paratjin  or  Parachin  Palanka,  and  the  Paraquin  of 
Des  Hayes  (vide  Appendix  F).  Poullet,  in  his  map,  has  Pachin 
palankassi. 

5  The  Morava. 

^  Compare  Poullet,  Nouvelles  Relations  dn  Levaiit,  vol.  i.  p.  164, 
"  Nous  arrivames  apres  deux  jours  et  demy  de  chemin  sur  le  bord 
d'une  grosse  riviere  nommde  la  Morava... nous  fusmes  tout  un  jour 
a  trav'erser  ce  flieuve  sur  des  batteaux."  Des  Hayes  had  a  similar 
experience  i(uide  Appendix  F). 

^  i.e.  Yagodin  or  Jagodina.  Des  Hayes  says  that  this  town  con- 
tained more  Turks  than  Christians  in  162 1. 

Compare  Busbequius,  Travels  into  Turkey,  p.  20,  "After  we  had 
past  the  River  called  Morava,  we  came  to  a  Town  of  the  Servians, 
named  Jagodna." 

Compare  also  Poullet,  Nouvelles  Relations  du  Levafit,  vol.  i. 
p.  164,  "Nous  passasmes  au  travers  de  quantite  de  bois  fort  epais, 
d'une  montagne... qui  fait  en  cet  endroit  un  defile  de  peu  de  longueur, 
et  qui  s'elargit  en  une  plaine  vers  sa  fin  ;  au  commencement  de 
laquelle  paroist  Yagodena,  gros  bourg." 


FROM   CONSTANTINOPLE   TO    LONDON  7 1 

The  2%th.  May,  1620.  Haveinge  dined  att  Batachin 
(12  miles)^  wee  passed  forward  to  Casanpasha  Palanca 
(12  miles)^,  Palanca  being  the  proper  name  of  one  of  those 
wooden  Fortifications  ^  of  which  sort  this  was  the  fairest 
wee  sawe  hetherto,  haveinge  Turretts  of  boards,  which 
made  a  very  handsome  shewe :  we  lodged  in  a  large  Cane. 

The  2gth.  May,  1620.  Att  this  Towne  (Colare,  13 
miles)*  is  another  Palanca,  from  whence  (haveing  dined), 
wee  came  to  Gratsco  (13  miles)^,  scituate  on  the  River 
Danubius**,  heere  beinge  also  a  Palanco  and  two  great 
stone  Canes,  but  my  Lord  pitched  neere  the  Towne. 
Heere  was  a  man  staked ^  beinge  one  of  fifteen  that  were 


^  The  modern  Batotschina  and  the  Baticina  of  Des  Hayes,  who 
calls  it  a  Christian  village  {vide  Appendix  F).  PouUet,  in  his  map, 
has  Deveh  Bayoj.  A  map  of  1680  (B.M.  28160.  2)  has  Barakin.  A 
map  of  1720  (B.M.  27730.  i)  has  Potitschina.  A  map  of  1744  (B.M. 
28195.  22)  has  Patazin.  A  map  of  181 1  (B.M.  43315.  18)  has  Rat- 
shina ;  and,  in  a  map  of  1830  (B.M.  43625.  i)  the  place  appears  as 
Devibagardan.  Compare  the  Attnals  of  Naima,  vol.  i.  p.  17,  "After 
passing  through  Philippopolis  and  Sophia  [in  1602],  he  (the  Grand 
Vizir,  Siran  Pasha)  caused  a  palanka  and  an  inn  to  be  erected  at 
a  place  called  Batchina  in  the  district  of  Yaghodina,  a  dangerous  and 
difficult  pass,  and  exposed  to  banditti." 

2  i.e.  Hassan  Pasha's  Palanka.  Des  Hayes  calls  it  "la  Palanque 
de  Hassem  Bascha  "  and  says  it  was  inhabited  by  an  equal  number  of 
Turks  and  Christians  in  1621  {vide  Appendix  F).  A  map  of  1830 
(B.M.  43625.  i)  has  Hassan  Paschina  Palanka.  The  place  is  now 
known  as  Hassan  Palanka  or  merely  Palanka. 

2  See  note  i  on  p.  68. 

*  The  modern  Kolar  or  KuUar.  Des  Hayes  calls  the  place  Cola 
and  says  that,  in  1 621,  it  contained  more  Turks  than  Christians. 
Poullet,  in  his  map,  has  Cola  palankassi,  thus  confirming  the  author's 
statement  as  to  the  existence  of  a  palangha  at  this  place.  In  a  map 
of  1744  (B.M.  28195.  22),  the  place  appears  as  Koiar. 

'"  Grotzka,  on  the  Danube.  Des  Hayes  says  that  "  Grosca,"  called 
by  the  Turks  "Ichargic"  \i.e.  Hissar  ^tic/iuk],  means  "little  castle" 
{vide  Appendix  F).  In  two  maps  of  1720  the  place  appears  as 
Grusca  Icargie  and  Isardschick  Krotzka ;  in  a  map  of  1744  it  is 
Krozka,    and  in  one  of  1830  it  is  called  Stolnaz  or  Groczka. 

^  "  Danuhius,  the  most  famous  river  of  Europe,  vid :  fol:  i." 
Author's  marginal  note.  Mundy  is  referring  to  his  extracts  from 
Blount's    Voyage  into  the  Levant.,  for  which  see  Appendix  A. 

<■  See  p.  55.  Impaling  was  still  practised  in  1830  (see  Keppel, 
Narrative  of  a  Jotcrney  across  the  Balcan,  vol.  i.  p.  458),  but  the 
victims  were  first  shot. 


72  A   JOURNEY   OVERLAND 

taken  and  put  to  death  hereabouts  of  fifty  that  haunted  the 
woods  and  Mountaines  :  the  rest  escaped. 

The  ■}f)ih.  May,  1620.  Wee  came  to  the  Cittie  of 
Belgrade  (12  miles)^  lyeing  on  Danubius.  Heere  my  Lord 
hired  a  howse,  being  determined  to  stay  some  few  daies. 
Also  our  waggons  were  discharged^,  being  to  take  horses 
henceforward  by  reason  of  the  mountainous  waie. 

The  31^"/.  May,  1620.  My  Lord  went  to  visitt  the 
Caddee^  which  is  a  Justice  amongst  the  Turkes,  where 
haveinge  stayed  one  hower,  hee  departed,  and  went  through 
the  Cittie  to  the  River  side,  where  takeinge  boate,  wee 
past  over  and  backe  againe  for  recreation.  There  ride 
before  the  Cittie  thirty-five  floatinge  milles"*,  theire  Cables  of 
withes, and  theireAnchorsgreatebasketts  filled  full  of  stones, 
makeinge  as  faire  a  shewe  afarr  of  as  they  were  handsome 


1  Here  Mundy  again  refers  to  "Fol:  i"  of  his  MS.,  containing 
Blount's  remarks  on  Belgrade.  For  these  see  Appendix  A.  In  his 
Index,  the  author  defines  Belgrade  as  "A  Citty  in  Hungary  under  the 
Turck."  See  PouUet,  Nouvelles  Relations  du  Levajtt,  vol.  i.  p.  129, 
for  a  short  description  of  Belgrade. 

Pindar's  train  occupied  twenty-five  days  in  the  journey  from  Con- 
stantinople to  Belgrade,  a  distance  of  six  hundred  and  twenty-seven 
miles,  an  average  of  twenty-one  miles  a  day.     See  note  6  on  p.  45. 

2  See  Poullet,  Nouvelles  Relations  du  Levant,  vol.  i.  p.  162,  for  an 
account  of  Turkish  vehicles  of  transit  and  the  discomfort  endured  in 
them. 

^  i.e.  the  kdzl  or  kddi.  Compare  Des  Hayes,  'Voyage  de  Levant, 
p.  60,  "  Pendant  le  sejour  que  nous  fismes  a  Belgrade,  le  Sieur  Des- 
hayes  alia  voir  plusieurs  fois  le  Mola  Cady,  appelle  Habil  efifendi,  qui 
est  le  Juge  de  la  ville." 

*  Mills  of  this  sort  still  exist  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Belgrade. 
Compare  Busbequius,  Travels  into  Turkey,  p.  17,  "I... passed  down 
the  Stream  to  Belgrade. ...In  my  Passage  down  the  River. ..there 
were  many  Water-Mills,  with  several  Trunks  and  Boughs  of  Trees 
hanging  over  the  Banks." 

Compare  also  Des  Hayes,  Voyage  de  Levant,  p.  60,  "  Les  moulins 
qui  sont  au  milieu  de  I'eau  (sur  le  Danube  de  Bude  k  Belgrade),  et 
qui  sont  grandement  dangereux." 

See  also  Blount's  remarks  on  the  mills  at  Belgrade,  quoted  in 
Appendix  A,  and  Major  Keppel's  remarks  on  the  Floating  Mills 
on  the  Maritza  in  1829  {Narrative  of  a  Journey  across  the  Balcafi, 
vol.  i.  p.  144).  On  the  Adige,  at  Verona,  in  the  present  day,  there  are 
still  floating  mills,  such  as  are  here  described  by  the  author. 


FROM   CONSTANTINOPLE   TO   LONDON  73 

within,  in  all  things  resemblinge  a  howse,  saveinge  the 
forepart,  which  was  shipp  shapen,  built  on  a  greate  Barge, 
the  building  being  neatly  contrived,  each  tymber  beinge 
squared  and  wrought,  haveinge  noe  Iron  worke,  all  fastned 
with  wooden  pinns,  there  being  an  other  small  boate  to 
uphold  the  other  end  of  the  Axeltree  whereon  the  water 
vvheele  turneth,  which  are  att  least  eight  yards  broad,  I 
meane  that  part  or  outer  circle  which  the  water  turneth,  in 
regard  of  the  soft  motion  of  the  Streame,  and  a  small 
bridge  to  passe  from  the  Mill  to  the  lesser  boate.  Theie 
are  made  aloft  in  the  Country  and  sent  downe  with  the 
Currant.  The  river  is  abundant  in  fish,  as  Sturgeons, 
Carpes,  Pikes,  etts.,  which  are  soe  cheape  as  is  almost 
incredible^ 

The  first  of  June,  1620.  Wee  went  to  see  the  Cittie, 
beinge  scituate  on  a  poynte  where  the  River  Saba"^  runneth 
into  Danubius,  which  is  nothing  neere  halfe  soe  broad,  but 
of  a  farr  more  swifter  course.  The  Cittie  conteynes  about 
2000  howsholds,  whereof  sixty  or  seventy  are  Jewes,  the 
rest  Christians  and  Turkes:  generally  made  of  Boards, 
both  walls  and  roofife  (Churches,  Besistenes-^,  bathes  and 
Canes*  excepted),  which  are  built  of  Stone.     Howsoever, 

'  Compare  Busbequius,  Travels  into  Turkey,  p.  85,  "At  Belgrade, 
upon  one  of  our  Fish-days,  we  were  presented  with  abundance  of 
choice  Fish,  and  amongst  the  rest,  with  large  full-bodied  Carps,  taken 
in  the  Danube,  whose  Carps  are  very  much  commended... yet  all  that 
quantity  of  Fish,  which  was  enough  to  satisfy  forty  Men,  cost  but  half 
a  Dollar." 

Compare  also  PouUet,  Noiivelles  Relations  dn  Levant,  vol.  i. 
p.  135  f.,  "  Un  patissier  Turc  me  fournissoit  de  bon  pain,  et  du 
meilleur  poisson  de  cette  riviere,  qui  n'a  pas  la  chair  ferme  comme 
celuy  des  nostres  ;  quoy  qu'ils  n'ait  que  de  tres-grosses  carpes,  de 
beaux  brochets  et  de  grands  esturgeons,  et  m'en  envoyoit  de  passable- 
ment  bien  appreste,  plus  que  moy  et  mon  valet  n'en  pouvions  pas 
manger,  pour  vingt  sols  par  jour,  du  prix  de  la  monnoye  de  France." 

See  also  Appendix  F  for  similar  remarks  by  Des  Hayes. 

^  i.e.  the  river  Save.  ^  See  notes  on  pp.  29,  y]  and  53. 

*  Compare  the  following  quaint  allusion  to  the  Khatts  of  Turkey  in 
"  Mr  Stampes  observations  in  his  Voyage  to  Constantinople  and 
thence  overland  to  Ragusa  in  1609,"  Stowe  MS.  180,  fol.  30,  "The  first 
night  wee  came  to  a  Towne  called  Biux  Cegnige  [Biyuk  Chekmeje] 
where  wee  lay  in  a  stable,  the  next. ..at  Celebrea  [Silivri]  in  the  stable, 


74  A  JOURNEY   OVERLAND 

those  wooden  buildings  make  a  faire  shewe,  beinge  very 
handsomely  contrived  ^ 

The  27id.  JtiJie,  1620.  The  Castle  is  next  worth  notice 
(if  not  cheife):  it  standeth  within  the  Cittie  on  the  very 
pointe  which  the  Two  Rivers  make,  shewinge  without  to 
bee  a  very  great,  faire  and  stronge  thinge,  beinge  very 
much  beautifyed  with  Turretts,  bulwarks,  battlements  and 
watch  Towers  round  about,  wherein  is  as  it  were  an  other 
Cittie,  haveinge  Churches,  Bathes,  etts.,  all  the  dwellers 
Turkes'^.  But  on  the  hill  standeth  the  principall  fort, 
beinge  seperated  from  the  rest  by  a  double  wall,  where 
wee  were  not  suffered  to  enter,  also  many  other  fortifica- 
tions included  within  the  outer  wall.  There  is  alsoe  a 
Clocke,  which  is  heard  over  all  the  Cittie,  seeminge  strange 
to  us,  beinge  there  are  none  used  in  other  partes  of  Turkey 
that  wee  could  heare^:  but  it  is  likely  that  remained  over 
since  they  conquered  this  place  from  the  Christians^ 

and  soe  from  stable  to  stable  even  to  Ragusa."     See  also  notes  on 
pp.  46  and  52. 

1  Compare  Busbequius,  Travels  itito  Turkey^  p.  18,  "As  for  Bel- 
grade itself,  it  is  seated  at  the  confluence  of  the  Save  and  the  Danow ; 
the  old  City  is  built  in  the  extreme  Angel  of  the  Promontory,  the 
Building  is  old,  it  is  fortified  with  many  Towers,  and  a  double  Wall : 
Two  parts  of  it  are  wash'd  by  the  Save  and  the  Danow,  but  on  that 
part  where  it  is  joined  to  the  Land,  it  hath  a  very  strong  Castle  on 
high  Ground,  consisting  of  many  loftly  Turrets  made  of  square  Stone  ; 
before  you  come  into  the  City,  there  is  a  vast  Number  of  Buildings, 
and  very  large  Suburbs,  wherein  several  Nations  inhabit,  viz.  Turks, 
Greeks,  Jews,  Hungarians,  Dalmatians  and  many  others." 

2  The  fortress  is  now  only  a  ruin.  See  Appettdix  A  and  Appendix  F 
for  the  remarks  of  Blount  and  Des  Hayes  about  the  Castle  at  Belgrade. 

Compare  Poullet,  Noitvelles  Relations  du  Levant^  vol.  i.  p.  127  f., 
"  Ce  Fort  (a  Belgrade)... est  construit  a  I'usage  des  Grecs,  et  presque 
dans  la  mesme  cymetrie  que  sont  les  anciennes  murailles  de  nos  villes, 
sinon  que  les  tours  n'y  sont  pas  si  grosses,  ni  si  bien  flanqu^es  que 
parmi  nous,  et  qu'elles  ont  par  tout  des  creneaux  au  lieu  d'embrazures." 

3  See  Poullet's  remarks  on  clocks  in  Turkey,  note  4  on  p.  60. 
Compare  Th^venot,  Travels  itito  the  Levaftt,  Part  i.  p.  51,  "The 
Turks... though  they  be  great  lovers  of  Clocks  and  Watches,  they'l  not 
take  them. ..if  they  have  any  Figures  of  Men,  Women,  or  Beasts  upon 
them  ;  but  they  matter  it  not,  if  they  be  of  Trees  or  flowers."  English 
"  grandfather "  clocks  are  nowadays  to  be  found  in  every  mosque  in 
Constantinople. 

*  Belgrade  was  taken  by  Sulaiman  the  Magnificent  on  the  20th 
August,  1 52 1. 


FROM   CONSTANTINOPLE   TO   LONDON  75 

The  Ferrie  boats  they  use  are  of  one  peece.  There  are 
likewise  very  greate  boates  for  carrieing  too  and  froe 
Corne,  wood,  salt,  etts.  The  salt  is  digged  out  of  the 
Mountaines  in  greate  peeces  of  neere  three  quarters  of 
a  yard  square,  blackish  to  Sight,  but  being  beaten  small, 
exceedeth  all  other  in  whitenesse,  brought  downe  hither  by 
boats,  and  from  thence  transported  over  the  Countries 
Wee  likewise  sawe  the  Artillery  howse,  wherein  were  many 
brave  peeces  of  brasse  ordinance,  which  the  Turks  had 
lately  taken  from  the  Emperour^  with  his  Armes  thereon. 
Amonge  the  rest  there  were  of  Anno  1596,  1598,  1600, 
which  theie  tooke  in  a  Stronge  Towne  called  Canitza  upon 
the  River  Danubius,  or  rather  Dravus^ 

The  6th.  June,  1620.  Horses  were  provided  with  great 
difficultie  for  our  farther  proceeded,  there  being  none  in 
Towne,  only  those  newely  arrived  from  other  parts.  This 
place  is  under  the  Basha  of  Buda^,  himselfe  residinge  there, 
haveinge  heere  his  Deputie,  called  Caymalcam*^,  (being  the 

^  Great  quantities  of  rock-salt  were  extracted  from  the  district  of 
Saros,  in  Hungary,  in  the  sixteenth  and  early  part  of  the  seventeenth 
centuries,  but,  towards  the  end  of  this  period,  the  quarries  were  inun- 
dated by  salt  springs. 

2  Ferdinand  II.,  1619 — 1637. 

^  Kaniza,  on  the  Theiss,  a  tributary  of  the  Drave,  was  taken  by  the 
Turks  on  the  22  October,  1600.  Here  the  author  has  a  marginal 
note,  "Taken  by  Mahomet  3rd.  aboutt  Anno  1600.  KnoUes,  Turky 
Hist:  p.  1 130:  vid."  The  account  of  the  siege  of  Kaniza  is,  as 
Mundy  says,  given  by  KnoUes  in  his  Historic  of  the  Ttirkes,  pp.  11 30 
— 1 1 32. 

Compare  the  Annals  of  Naitna,  vol.  i.  pp.  188,  194  and  195,  "The 
forty-two  pieces  of  cannon  and  five  falconets  which  had  been  taken  in 
the  trenches  were  most  beautifully  ornamented  by  art,  each  being  of 
considerable  value... .The  whole  of  the  cannon  and  arms  were 
transported  by  order  of  the  Pasha  into  the  fortress  of  Kaniza... .Three 
full  months  were  spent  in  collecting  and  bringing  into  Kaniza  the 
cannon,  arms,  ammunition,  tents,  &c.  which  the  enemy  had  left 
behind  them."  A  full  account  of  the  siege  is  given  in  the  same  work, 
p.  168  ff. 

*  See  Des  Hayes  {Appendix  F)  for  the  cost  of  hiring  horses  in  his 
journey  across  Turkey. 

^  See  note  4  on  p.  65. 

^  KaHmmakam,  deputy  governor.     Compare  Des  Hayes,    Voyage 


76  A  JOURNEY  OVERLAND 

name  of  his  office  or  deputieshipp).  From  hence  Mr. 
Willson^  hcensed  Tadux^,  his  Servant,  to  returne  to 
Constantinople.  This  Murrat=^  related  unto  mee  hee  hadd 
a  Brother  there,  a  Shoemaker,  for  the  Common  sort  of 
Armenians  are  generally  Shoemakers,  Bakers  and  Porters, 
of  whom  alsoe  the  English  serve  themselves  for  Cooks. 
This  his  said  brother  requested  him  at  his  departure 
that  att  his  returne  hee  would  bringe  him  a  wife  of  the 
daughters  of  the  poore  Christian  Bullgarians,  It  beinge 
a  Custome  much  used  amongst  them  :  And  the  Bulgarians 
are  the  willinger  thereto,  haveinge  ever  found  the  Armenians 
to  have  performed  honestly  with  them  in  that  kinde.  Soe, 
accord inge  to  his  brothers  request,  hee  had  made  choyce 
of  one  att  his  comeinge  downe,  and  now  att  his  returne 
would  carry  her  alonge  with  him,  haveinge  allready  gotten 
her  owne  (with  her  father  and  mothers)  consent.  Thus  the 
poore  Christians  trade,  although  they  never  sawe  nor  heard 
of  each  other  before. 

The  manner  of  theis  poore  Bulgarians  as  farr  as  I 
could  learne,  is  the  Men  generally  Labourers,  cloathed 
in  white  cloth,  the  weomen  for  the  most  part  in  Russett. 
The  Virgins  goe  in  theire  haire,  which  hangeth  downe 
behinde  handsomely  plaited,  adding  thereunto  other  haire 
to  increase  its  length,  alsoe  upon  theire  heads  and  about 
their  necke  they  have  a  great  many   shahees'*   and  other 

de  Levant^  pp.  39  and  45,  "  Ce  fut  a  Strigogne  que  nous  apprismes 
I'ordre  que  le  Caimacam  avoit  donne  de  faire  desfrayer  le  Sieur 
Deshayes  aux  despens  du  grand  Seigneur... le  Sieur  Des-hayes  desira 
de  visiter  le  Caimacam  en  I'absence  du   Bascha." 

Compare  also  Knolles,  Histo?-ie  of  the  Turkes,  pp.  141 1  and  1457, 
"The  Embassadour... desiring  them  that  he  would  leave  him  a 
particular  recommendation  to  the  Chimacham  or  Deputy... .The 
Spahees... discontent  with  the  government  of  the  old  Chimacham." 
See  also  Delia  Valle,   Voyages,  vol.  i.  p.  77. 

1  See  note  7  on  p.  41. 

^  i.e.  Thaddeus. 

3  See  note  4  on  p.  43. 

*  Shdht,  a  small  silver  coin  of  Persia,  worth  about  4|d. 


FROM    CONSTANTINOPLE   TO   LONDON  yj 

peeces  of  silver  and  brasse,  which,  by  makeinge  little  holes 
in  them,  they  sowe  and  weave  together  ;  Alsoe  in  theire 
Eares  great  earings  of  silver,  whereof  some  weigh  att  least 
fower  ounces  the  paire.  They  goe  in  their  smocksleeves, 
which  are  very  wide  and  wrought,  although  not  very  fine, 
and  barefooted.  The  married  weomen  differ  in  this  :  they 
weare  a  linnen  cloth  plaited  which  hangeth  downe  behinde 
over  the  tresse  of  theire  haire'.  Att  our  passage  through 
any  village,  theie  would  stand  readie  with  hott  Cakes, 
many  of  them,  for  they  make  noe  bread  but  when  they 
have  occasion  to  use  it,  bakeing  it  in  the  Embers.  Also 
milke  sweete  and  sowre,  fresh  cheese,  butter,  Eggs,  etts.^, 
being  brought  to  us  by  the  youngest  and  prettiest  wenches, 
among  them :  and  if  wee  lodge  neere  any  of  theis  villages, 
after  they  had  brought  us  of  theire  provisions,  then  would 
they  gather  together  younge  Weomen  and  Children,  and 
holding    hand    in   hand    in    a    round,  they   would    daunce 

^  Compare  Busbequius,  Travels  into  Turkey,  p.  27  f.,  "  The  Habit 
of  these  Bulgarian  Women.  They  commonly  wear  nothing  but  a 
Smock  or  Shift,  made  of  no  finer  Linnen-thread,  than  what  we  make 
Sacks  of.  And  yet,  these  coarse  Garments  are  wrought  by  them,  with 
several  sorts  of  strip'd  Needle-work,  after  a  homely  Fashion :  With 
this  lose  party-coloured  Habit  they  mightily  pleased  themselves,  so 
that  when  they  saw  our  Shifts,  made  of  the  finest  Linnen,  yet  they 
wondered  at  our  Modesty,  that  we  could  be  contented  to  wear  them 
without  various'  Works  of  divers  Colours  wrought  in  them.  But  that 
which  I  most  of  all  admired  in  them,  was  the  Tower,  which  they  wore 
on  their  Heads. ..in  that  Space  interjacent  between  their  upper  and 
lower  Part,  they  hang  Pieces  of  Coin,  little  Pictures  or  Images,  small 
Parcels  of  painted  Glass,  or  whatever  is  resplendent,  though  never  so 
mean,  which  are  accounted  very  ornamental  among  them." 

^  Compare  Busbequius,  Travels  into  Turkey,  p.  27,  "We  con- 
tinued our  Journey,  for  many  Days,  through  the  pleasant,  and  not 
unfruitful  Valley  of  Bulgaria  ;  all  the  Time  we  were  in  that  Country, 
we  had  little  other  Bread  but  only  Cakes  bak'd  under  Ashes  upon  the 
Hearth  which  they  call  Togatch.  The  Women  and  Maids  sell  them, 
for  they  have  no  Bakers  in  those  parts ;  and  when  they  perceive  any 
Guests  a-coming,  that  are  likely  to  pay  for  what  they  have,  presently 
they  knead  a  little  Dough,  with  Water,  without  any  Leaven,  and  lay  it 
upon  Tiles,  under  the  Ashes,  and  so  bring  it  out  piping  hot,  and  sell 
them  for  a  very  small  matter  ;  other  Victuals  is  also  very  cheap  there, 
a  good  Weather-sheep  may  be  bought  for  thirty-five  Aspers ;  a 
Chicken  and  a  Hen  for  an  Asper,  a  sort  of  Coin  with  them  of  which 
fifty  make  but  a  Crown." 


78  A  JOURNEY   OVERLAND 

and  sing  very  merrily,  although  with  noe  greate  melodie. 
Theire  Language  neither  Turkish  nor  Greeke^,  but  like  the 
Russian,  for  wee  had  a  Russe-  which  served  for  our  In- 
terpreteur  hereabouts. 

The  jth.  J2ine,  1620.  Wee  departed  from  Belgrade,  and 
dined  by  a  Fountaine  six  myles  in  our  waie,  and  four 
miles  farther  wee  pitched  and  lay  in  the  feilds.  Too  day 
Exceedinge  hott. 

The  '^th.  June,  1620.  Att  the  end  of  eight  miles  wee 
dyned,  and  rested  some  three  howres  to  passe  away  the 
heate  of  the  day,  after  which  wee  passed  two  myles 
further,  and  remained  in  the  feilds  that  Night. 

The  (^th.  June,  1620.  From  our  aforesaid  feild  lodginge 
wee  came  by  Noone  to  a  great  Towne  called  Valliano 
(10  miles)^  where  by  a  Rivers  side*,  which  had  two  bridges, 
my  Lord  pitched  his  tent.  Att  our  entrance  into  the 
Towne  were  twoe  men  on  stakes  throwne  downe,  halfe 
eaten  with  Doggs  and  Crowes.  The  Caddee  sent  us  twenty 
men  to  watch  with  us  all  night,  the  place  being  somewhat 
dangerous  for  Theeves^  Heere  wee  had  Cherries  at  a 
farthinge  a  pound. 

The  \Qth.  June,  1620.  Att  twenty  miles  end  wee  tooke 
upp  our  lodginge  in  the  Feilds.  This  dayes  travell  proved 
some  what  easie,  in  regard  the  day  was  not  very  hott  of  it 
selfe,  and  the  next,  our  waie  beinge  through  shadie  woods 


^  Compare  Busbequius,  Travels  info  Turkey,  p.  29,  "  They  [the 
Bulgarians]  use  the  Illyrian,  or  Slavonian  Tongue,  as  the  Servians 
and  Rascians  [District  E.  of  Herzegovina,  now  Novibazar]  also  do." 

2  i.e.  Teodoro.     See  p.  43. 

3  The  modern  Valjevo  or  Valievo.  See  Blount's  remarks  on  this 
place  quoted  in  Appe7idix  A.  Mundy  from  this  point  to  Spalato 
becomes  very  difficult,  and  at  times  impossible,  to  follow,  and  seems 
to  have  frequently  misjudged  the  distances  in  the  mountains. 

*  The  Kolubara,  a  tributary  of  the  Save.  From  Belgrade  the  road 
follows  the  banks  of  the  Save  for  some  ten  miles  and  then  turns  south- 
wards into  the  valley  of  the  Kolubara  and  its  several  affluents. 

^  See  Appendix  A  for  the  precautions  taken  by  Blount's  caravan 
when  passing  through  this  district. 


FROM   CONSTANTINOPLE   TO   LONDON  79 

all  that  dale,  ascendinge  and  descendinge  pleasant  moun- 
tains \  which  exceeded  all  others  that  ever  I  sawe  for  height 
and  beautie,  not  steepie,  but  gentlie  riseinge  by  degrees, 
the  Topps  being  as  good  ground  as  the  bottome  and  as 
firtill,  these  mightie  Hills  beinge  full  of  prettie  swellings, 
aboundinge  with  springs  from  the  foote  to  the  head,  and 
Rivers  in  all  the  valleyes  which  run  into  the  lowermost 
vallies  of  alP.  Yett  lyes  this  pleasant  peece  of  Countrey  in 
a  manner  waste,  and  growen  with  weeds  and  woods  of 
exceeding  high  trees,  as  Oake,  Maple,  etts.^,  saveinge  some 
fewe  places  heere  and  there,  which  poore  Christians  make 
use  of  for  a  little  Tillage  and  keepeinge  a  few  Cattle.  To- 
wards .the  end,  wee  descended  a  hill  much  more  steepie 
then  the  rest,  over  against  which  was  a  huge  mountainous 
Rock  of  an  incredible  height  and  steepienesse*,  betwene 
both  which  runne  a  River®  with  a  Stone  bridge,  by  which 
wee  found  such  quantitie  of  good  ripe  Strawburryes  as  none 
of  our  Companie  ever  sawe  the  like,  soe  that  a  man  might 
gather  them  by  handfuUs  in  a  manner,  Alsoe  manie  wilde 


1  "  Faire  shadie  woods,  most  pleasant,  firtill,  aspiring  Moun- 
taines."  Author's  marginal  note.  Pindar's  train  was  now  entering 
the  mountain  system  of  Bosnia  and  Herzegovina,  the  various  chains 
of  which  connect  the  Dinaric  Alps  with  the  Albanian.  They  consist 
of  short  ridges  and  plateaus,  generally  running  from  N.W.  to  S.E., 
rising  from  3000  to  5000  feet  in  height.  Their  slopes  are  covered 
with  forests  of  pine,  oak  and  beech.  In  a  map  of  1830  (B.M.  43625.  i) 
they  are  called  the  Zarugie  Mountains.  In  a  map  of  1892  (B.M. 
44250.  13)  the  elevated  land  (alp)  west  of  Valjevo  is  called  the  Radjevo 
Planina  and  the  Maljevo  Planina. 

2  The  route  followed  on  this  day,  after  leaving  Valjevo,  seems  to 
have  been  up  the  Jablanitza,  over  the  Medvednjik  Planina,  and  down 
the  Ljubowija. 

^  See  Blount's  remarks  on  this  district  in  Appendix  A. 

*  In  a  map  of  1712  (B.M.,  K.  113.  15)  the  Crance  Mountains  are 
marked  between  the  Kolubara  and  the  Drina  Rivers,  and,  in  a  map  of 
1876  (B.M.,  S.  238.  13),  two  peaks,  named  Jablanck  and  Medvednjik 
(3090  feet  high),  are  marked  in  the  same  district,  with  a  tributary  of 
the  Drina  between  them. 

Here  the  author  has  a  marginal  note,  "A  steepie,  ragged,  Rockye 
mountaine." 

^  ?The  Ljubowija. 


8o  A  JOURNEY   OVERLAND 

Apple  and  Cherrie  Trees.  I  doe  remember  that  in  a 
parcell  of  the  Countrey  wee  past,  the  ground  was  neere 
covered  with  a  kind  of  wilde  redd  rose  of  a  perfect  good 
smell  and  coulour,  but  single,  growinge  close  to  the  ground 
on  little  Spriggs,  Whether  it  was  this  day  or  noe  I  am  not 
sure. 

The  iitk.  June,  1620.  Wee  came  to  the  River  of 
Dreena  (8  miles) ^,  which  runneth  into  Saba-,  formerly 
mentioned,  beinge  a  stones  cast  over,  very  swifte  and  cleire, 
noe  bridge,  soe  wee  were  ferried  over  by  boate.  Goeinge 
six  miles  further,  wee  came  to  a  small  brooke  betwene 
two  Hills,  where  wee  dined  and  past  the  heat  of  the  day. 
Neere  to  this  place  wee  past  by  certaine  howses  and  Mills 
(11  miles),  which  serve  for  the  worke  of  a  silver  Myne  in 
the  Neighbouringe  Mountaines^.  Att  the  foote  of  one  of 
them  is  a  Cane,  but  wee  pitched  by  it. 

The  \2tJ1.  June,  1620.  In  ascendinge  the  Mountaine 
(Ravena)^  wee  found  it  much  higher  then  wee  expected, 
beinge  by  computation  about  eight  miles  ascendinge  and 
descendinge  from  the  foote  of  the  Hill  on  the  other  side^ 
Wee  went  twelve  miles  farther  through  a  plaine  where  were 


^  The  Drina.  In  the  Itinerary  of  le  Sieur  Quiclet,  1657 — 1658 
(B.M.  4040.  i),  there  is  the  remark,  "  Drin,  riviere,  porte  iDatteaux." 

2  The  Save. 

3  These  statements  are  difficult.  They  seem  to  refer  to  the  Drina 
and  Jadar  Rivers,  and  to  Srebreniza  (jT^^r<?  =  silver),  the  site  of  the 
ancient  silver,  copper  and  lead  mines. 

4  The  "Romania  Acheri "  of  the  Itinerary  (see  above,  note  i),  the 
M.  Romana  of  a  map  of  1687  (B.M.,  K.  113,  34)  and  the  Romanja 
(Romania)  Planina  of  Blau's  map,  Ronten  in  Bosnia  unci  Herzego- 
vina, 1876. 

^  Compare  Poullet's  remarks  on  the  road  from  Bosna  Serai  to 
Belgrade,  Noiivelles  Relations  dii  Levant,  vol.  i.  pp.  123  and  125  f., 
"  A  une  petite  journee  de  Bosna,  je  me  trouvay  engage  au  milieu  des 
montagnes,  qui  sont  fort  hautes  en  ces  quartiers,  et  estoient  encore 
couvertes  de  neiges.... Pendant  huit  ou  dix  jours  que  nous  restames 
pour  arriver  a  Bellegrade....Je  n'y  vis  que  de  mechans  villages,  aupres 
desquels  nous  couchames,  ou  dans  des  Hans,  ou  a  la  campagne.,..On 
voit  a  deux  journees  de  Bosna  une  petite  riviere  presque  guayable  par 
tout,  appellee  Yadra." 


FROM   CONSTANTINOPLE   TO    LONDON  8 1 

six  or  seven  villages  and  many  scatteringe  dwellings,  all 
made  of  wood,  where  was  neither  bread  nor  wyne,  nor  any 
thinge  els  to  bee  had  but  att  very  dear  rates. 

The  iT)th.  June,  1620.  From  the  afore  mentioned  place^, 
for  eight  miles  the  way  reasonable  plaine,  but  from  thence 
to  the  Cittie  of  Bosna  Sarae,  seven  miles  farther^,  very 
mountainous  and  rockyl  This  Cittie  lyeth  among  the 
Hills'*,  upon  one  of  which  neere  the  same  stands  a  Castled 
The  howses  heere  in  generall  have  theire  walls  of  Clay,  the 
rooffs  of  Timber,  the  people  very  bigg  and  tall,  Att  this 
tyme  very  discourteous  to  Francks  by  reason  of  a  Con- 
troversie  the  Marchants  of  this  Cittie  have  with  the 
Venetians,  too  longe  to  bee  here  inserted";  whereupon  my 
Lord  forbadd  anie  to  stirr  out  of  doores,  haveing  taken 
a  howse  till  wee  gott  other  horses,  the  former  being  dis- 
charged,   for    whome    wee    paid    aspers''   200   each   from 

1  Apparently  from  the  end  of  the  plain  in  which  were  the  villages 
and  "  scatteringe  dwellings." 

2  Bosna  Serai,  the  modern  Sarajevo.  This  place,  the  ancient 
Tiberiopolis,  derives  its  name  from  the  Seraglio  or  palace  built  by 
Muhammad  II.  In  a  map  of  1720  (B.M.  44250.  4)  it  is  called  Saraio, 
Sarayevo,  Bosna  Saraie,  Bosna  Argentina  or  Bistue  Nova.  See 
Blount's  remarks  on  the  place  in  Appendix  A,  and  Mundy's  comments 
thereon. 

Sarajevo  is  122  miles  south-west  of  Belgrade.  Pindar  and  his 
train  accomplished  the  distance  in  seven  days,  an  average  of  \^\  miles 
per  day,  as  against  the  21  miles  per  day  from  Constantinople  to 
Belgrade.    See  note  i  on  p.  72. 

^  The  hills  round  Sarajevo  rise  to  a  height  of  5250  feet. 

*  Sarajevo  is  1770  feet  above  the  sea. 

^  The  castle,  now  a  ruin,  was  built  by  the  Hungarian  general, 
Cotroman,  in  1263.     See  Blount's  remarks  in  Appendix  K. 

^  The  dispute  between  the  Bosnians  and  the  Venetians  was  owing 
to  the  piracies  of  the  Uscocs,  a  people  of  Dalmatia.  The  Pasha  of 
Bosnia  accused  the  Venetians  of  complicity  in  the  outrages  of  161 3. 
For  some  years,  relations  between  the  Porte  and  Venice  continued 
to  be  strained  and  war  was  only  averted  with  difficulty.  For  a  full 
account  of  the  Uscocs  and  the  protection  given  to  them  by  Austria, 
see  Wilkinson,  Dalmatia  atid  Montenegro,  vol.  ii.  pp.  352,  384  ff. 
and  429. 

"^  See  note  2  on  p.  27.  Compare  Th^venot,  Travels  into  the 
Levant,  Part  i.  p.  67,  "The  Aspers  are  little  pieces  of  Silver  that 
have  no  other  stamp  but  the  Grand  Signior's  Name,  and  are  worth 


82  A  JOURNEY   OVERLAND 

Belgrade  hither.  Heere  are  about  50  Turkish  Churches \ 
and  as  many  water  mills  driven  by  one  Brooke^,  lyeinge 
one  lower  then  another,  each  haveinge  but  one  little  wheele, 
which  the  water  turneth,  the  Axeltree  of  which  is  fixed  in 
the  Millstone  it  selfe^ 

The  \6th.  Jitne,  1620.  Haveinge  heere  hired  horses  for 
Spalatra*  att  170  aspees  per  horse,  wee  departed  and  came 
to  Pasaricke  (10  miles)^,  our  way  betwene  Mountaines, 
and  from  thence  to  Evan'',  the  way  also  mountainous  and 
rocky. 


about  eight  Denieis,  or  three  Farthings  a  piece,  but  there  are  many  of 
them  Counterfeit,  and  one  must  have  a  care  of  that  ;  so  that  to  receive 
half  a  crown  in  them,  it  requires  half  a  quarter  of  an  hour  to  examine 
the  Pieces  one  after  another  ;  but  great  payments  require  whole  days." 

^  Blount  gives  the  number  as  about  eighty.  See  Appendix  A. 
Compare  Poullet,  Nouvelles  Relations  du  Levant,  vol.  i.  pp.  83  and 
103,  "  Cette  ville  de  Bosna  est  la  Capitale  d'un  des  plus  considerables 
Pachalies,  et  fort  raisonablement  grande,  beaucoup  plus  longue  que 
large,  et  enfonc^e  entre  deux  montagnes  vers  le  Septentrion.  Elle  a 
quantite  de  Mosquees,  couvertes  de  plomb,  et  eslevees  en  dome.... 
Cette  ville  n'a  presque  plus  que  quelques  pieces  de  murailles  ruinees, 
et  est  tres  desagreable  a  voir  par  dedans...." 

2  The  Miljacka  or  Miljatzka,  a  tributary  of  the  Bosna. 

2  Compare  Poullet,  Nouvelles  Relations  du  Levant,  vol.  i.  p.  104, 
L'extremite  de  Bosna  vers  Belgrade,  est  eslev^e  sur  une  colline,  d'oii 
il  descend  un  petit  ruisseau  ;  lequel  est  tellement  conduit,  qu'il  fait  du 
moins  tourner  cinquante  moulins  d'un  mesme  cours.  lis  sont  indus- 
trieusement  placez  par  etage,  les  uns  au  dessous  des  autres,  que  la 
mesme  eau  fait  tout  moudre.  La  roue  sur  laquelle  elle  tombe,  n'est 
pas  posee  sur  le  cost^  de  I'edifice,  comme  elle  est  parmy  nous,  mais 
tout  au  bas,  et  mise  de  plat,  sur  un  pivot  contre  terre,  ayant  son 
^tendue,  parallele  a  I'horison,  et  faisant  la  mesme  figure  que  fait  une 
pirouette  tournee  sur  une  table."  This  form  of  mill  is  still  in  use. 
For  the  water-mills  at  Belgrade,  see  ante,  p.  72  f 

*  Spalato.  "  Spalatra,  a  place  in  the  Venetian  gulff."  Author's 
Index. 

^  Pazaric  or  Pasaritj  is  fifteen  and  a  half  miles  from  Sarajevo  on 
the  Sarajevo-Mostar  railway.  In  the  Itinerary  of  le  Sieiir  Qniclet  in 
1658  (B.M.  44040.  i)  the  place  is  given  as  Bazarick,  in  a  map  of  1720 
(B.M.  44250.  4)  as  Pasarick  or  Bazaritch,  and  in  a  map  of  1806 
(B.M.,  K.  113.  34)  as  Bocaritz. 

^  i.e.  Ivan.  The  Ivan  Planina  is  a  ridge  separating  the  valleys  of 
the  Lepenica  and  Narenta  rivers.  The  village  of  Ivan,  or  Jora  Ivan, 
twenty-four  miles  from  Sarajevo,  is  on  the  top  of  the  ridge.  In  the 
Iti7ierary,  mentioned  above,  Mont  Yvan  is  given,  and,  in  a  map  of 
1720  (B.M.  44250.  4)  we  have  Mont  St  Jean  or  Mont  Yvan. 


FROM    CONSTANTINOPLE   TO   LONDON  83 

The  lyih.Juue,  1620.  Wee  came  to  Coneetza  (8  miles)^ 
a  good  Towne,  before  which  runneth  a  prettie  River  named 
Neretria^  cleire,  greenish  and  verye  swift,  makeinge  a  great 
Noyse  as  it  passeth  among  the  Hills.  Wee  kept  our  way 
alongst  by  it  to  Leeseecheechee  (2  miles)'^,  where  wee 
dined,  then  continued  our  course  yett  by  the  said  River 
a  good  space  till  it  tooke  another  waie,  where  the  River 
Ramatha*  ran  into  it,  and  goeinge  one  hower  by  the  said 
Ramatha,  wee  crost  it  by  a  bridge,  then  lefte  it  and  began 
to  ascend  an  exceedinge  highe  Mountaine  and  steepy*^,  soe 
that  in  divers  places  were  rayles  of  wood,  that  Horses  with 
Carriage  might  not  fall  and  perrish.  When  wee  came  to  the 
descent,  thinckinge  to  discover  some  plaine  Countrie,  wee 
sawe  an  other  mountaine  right  before  us,  adjoyninge  to 
this,  altogether  soe  high,  but  much  more  steepy,  beinge  one 
entyre  Masse  of  a  Rocke,  most  strange  and  fearefull  to 
behold'^.  Betwene  theis  twoe  is  a  little  valley,  wherein  is 
a  little  village  (15  miles),  and  two  little  Rivers,  which 
comeinge  contrary  wayes,  meete,  and  both  together  sincke 

1  Konjica,  or  Konitza,  on  the  Neretva  or  Narenta,  thirty-five 
miles  from  Sarajevo.  Poullet,  in  his  map  (1658),  has  Conitha.  A 
map  of  1720  (B.M.  44250.  4)  has  Cogniz  or  Comitha,  and  a  map  of 
1830  (B.M.  43625.  i)  has  Sconicza. 

^  The  B.M.  copy  of  Mundy's  Travels,  Harl.  MS.  2286,  has 
'•  Neretna." 

^  The  author's  distance  is  wrong.  Lisicici  is  seven  and  a  half 
miles  from  Konjica. 

*  i.e.  to  Rama  at  the  junction  of  the  Rama  and  the  Narenta.  It 
is,  like  the  preceding  places,  on  the  Sarajevo-Mostar  railway.  Pindar's 
train  next  proceeded  south-westwards  to  Spalato  over  the  Prologh 
Mountains. 

^  Here  the  author  has  a  marginal  note,  "Dowlany  Hills,  vid  :  Fo  :  i." 
The  remark  refers  to  the  extracts  from  Blount  in  Appendix  A. 

In  a  map  of  1720  (B.M.  27730.  i)  Dogliani  Mountain  is  marked  on 
the  north  of  Sarajevo,  but  the  author,  by  his  "  Dowlany  Hills,"  seems 
to  mean  the  heights  surrounding  the  valley  of  the  Doljanca  or  Dol- 
jani,  a  tributary  of  the  Rama,  and  to  give  this  name  to  all  the  hills 
drained  by  the  Rama  itself. 

^  Here  the  author  has  a  marginal  note,  "A  wonderfull  high  Steeple 
Rockye  mountaine,  the  strangest  wee  yet  saw.  Dowlanee  Fo  :  i." 
The  party  most  probably  passed  the  night  somewhere  near  Prosor. 

6—2 


84  A  JOURNEY   OVERLAND 

right  downe  among  the  gravell.     I  could  not  learne  where- 
abouts they  rise  againe. 

The  I'ith.  June,  1620.  Departinge  from  Dowlanee,  wee 
began  our  Journey  through  more  of  the  said  huge  Rock, 
some  in  a  manner  threatninge  to  overwhelme  us.  Wee 
came  to  a  plaine  called  Borvagaglava\  where  wee  dyned. 
Before  wee  came  to  this  plaine,  wee  ascended  another  high 
mountaine,  which  had  little  descent  to  bee  perceived,  the 
plaine  begininge  from  the  topp  of  the  said  Mountaine, 
where  wee  found  it  very  cold,  it  standinge  very  high^.  On 
either  side  were  other  Hills  whose  topps  were  covered  with 
Snowe,  with  Forrests  of  Pine  trees  and  a  little  farther  were 
whole  woods  of  them  cutt  downe  to  the  ground^,  To  prevent 
Theeves  that  usually  lurked  amonge  them^  Heere  were 
feedinge  great  store  of  horses,  kyne,  sheepe  and  swine. 
From  thence  into  a  wood,  and  then  into  another  plaine^ 
environed  with  stonie  barren  hills,  though  in  the  plaine 
were  store  of  villages  and  other  dwellings.  Att  the  end  of 
this  plaine  (10  miles)  wee  remained  all  night  by  a  fountain 
called  Bresneeg''. 

The  igth.  June,  1620.     Wee  dyned  by  a  great  Lake'', 

^  Borovaglava,  a  plateau  of  the  Prologh  Mountains.  Pindar  and 
his  party  appear  to  have  followed  the  ancient  Gabinian  way  over  the 
Prologh  Mountains,  a  part  of  the  Dalmatian  Alps,  and  thence,  across 
the  river  Cettina  to  Spalato.  In  a  map  of  1780  (B.M.  44290.  6) 
Borovaglava  appears  as  Buscova  Draga.  In  a  map  of  1878  (B.M. 
43625.  9)  Boroylawa  Han  is  marked.  The  party  probably  started 
from  Prosor. 

2  Here  the  author  has  a  marginal  note,  "An  admirable  Plaine." 
The  other  "high  mountain"  may  be  the  "  Mt.  Militsch  "  of  a  map 
of  1806  (B.M.,   K.   113.  34). 

3  The  British  Museum  copy,  Had.  MS.  2286,  has  "hewen  to  the 
ground." 

*  Here,  in  the  Rawlinsoti  MS.,  is  inserted  a  double-page  map  of 
Italy  by  Hondius,  dated  163 1,  with  Mundy's  route  from  Spalato  to 
Turin  and  also  his  Mediterranean  voyage  (described  in  Relation  I.) 
marked  in  red  dotted  lines. 

^  ?The  Duvno  Polje. 

*•  Probably  a  spring  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Livno. 

''  Mundy's  "great  lake"  is  shown,  but  not  named,  in  a  map  of 
1811  (B.M.,  K.  113.  23).      It  is  most  probably  the  Semaroromo  Blato 


FROM    CONSTANTINOPLE   TO   LONDON  85 

the  way  soe  stoney  and  rockey  that  wee  past  with  a  great 
deale  of  trouble.  Att  night  wee  rested  in  a  Cane  neere  a 
River  side,  of  a  marvelous  slowe  motion\  Noe  water  from 
the  lake  to  this  place,  heere  being  also  a  fountaine  by  the 
Cane-. 

The  20th.  JiLiie,  1620.  Crossinge  over  the  said  River ^  by 
boate,  wee  stayed  and  dined  under  a  Turkish  Garrison 
Castle  (Keeleesh,  7  miles),  built  on  a  high  cragked  Rock'*; 
from  thence  a  miles  further  to  an  other  Castle  of  Turks, 
Loucharick'',  lately  taken  from  the  Venetians,  haveinge  yett 
their  Armes  over  the  gates,  And  one  Mile  beyond  that  is  a 
Stone  sett  betwene  the  Venetian  and  Turkish  Dominions. 
Wee  were  noe  sooner  past  it,  but  wee  entred  into  Christen- 
dome,  then  seeminge  to  bee  in  a  new  World,  such  was  the 

or  Zrni  Lug  in  the  Livanjsko  Polje,  E.  of  the  Prologh  Planina,  seen  in 
flood.  But  it  might  be  the  Rusko  Blato  (Lake),  S.  of  Livno.  The 
distance  to  the  Cettina  by  either  route  would  be  about  the  same. 

*  The  Cettina.  Here  the  author  has  a  marginal  note,  "  Cheteena, 
a  river." 

^  The  Khan  would  probably  be  either  at  Petricevic   or  at  Trilj, 
according  to  the  route  taken  over  the  Prologh  Planina. 
^  i.e.  the  Cettina. 

*  Here  the  author  has  a  marginal  note  "  Keeleesh,  a  garrison 
Vid:  Fol :  i."  This  refers  to  the  extracts  from  Blount  in  Appendix  K. 
"  Keeleesh"  is  Mundy's  spelling  ;  Blount  calls  the  place  Clyssi.  The 
author  has  underestimated  its  distance  from  the  Cettina.  Clissa(KlTsh), 
a  fortress  famed  from  early  times,  for  its  strong  position,  lies  two  and 
a  quarter  miles  E.N.E.  from  Salona.  For  its  history,  see  Wilkinson, 
Dalmatia  and  Montenegro,  vol.  i.  p.  173  and  vol.  ii.  pp.  293,  351  ; 
and  Yriarte,  Les  Bords  de  PAdriatique  et  le  Montenegro.,  p.  283  f. ; 
Compare  De  Bauveau,  Relation  Jonrnaliere  dii  Voyage  du  Levant., 
p.  4,  "  Passant  plus  outre  [in  1604]  nous  laissasmes..,Clysse,  forteresse 
appartenant  aux  Turcz."  Clissa  is  one  of  the  five  Hungarian  royal 
castles  depicted  by  Spanyi  in  the  dining-room  of  the  House  of  Mag- 
nates at  Budapest. 

^  This  appears  to  be  a  copyist's  error  for  Soucharick  i.e.  Su^uraz. 
Castel  SuQuraz  or  Sugurac  is  one  of  the  sixteen  Venetian  Castles 
constructed  in  the  fifteenth  and  sixteenth  centuries  as  places  of  refuge. 
If,  by  Loucharick,  Suguraz  is  intended,  the  author  can  only  mean  that 
he  passed  it  at  a  distance,  for  Suquraz  is  not  on  the  direct  road  from 
Clissa  to  Spalato,  but  lies  on  the  sea  shore  north  of  Salona.  There 
is  no  modern  name  between  Clissa  and  Spalato  which  would  cor- 
respond with  Mundy's  Loucharick.  For  Suguraz,  see  Wilkinson, 
Dalmatia  and  Montenegro,  vol.  i.  p.  173. 


S6  A  JOURNEY   OVERLAND 

alteration  wee  found \  not  only  in  the  Inhabitants,  but  also 
in  the  Soyle  ;  for,  for  three  dayes  before,  wee  sawe  nothinge 
but  rockey,  barren,  stoney  ground,  scarce  any  Corne,  tree, 
or  greene  thing  to  bee  perceived,  excepting  in  the  vallies. 
But  heere  it  was  otherwise.  For  a  man  hath  scarcely 
seene,  or  could  immagine  a  more  fertill  peece  of  ground  or 
delightsome  prospect,  for  of  the  very  stones,  of  which  there 
are  aboundance,  being  a  great  hindrance  to  any  soyle,  they 
turned  them  by  their  Industrie  to  as  great  a  furtherance 
and  benefitt  by  makeinge  of  them  pertitions,  like  walls, 
instead  of  hedges.  And  the  feilds  are  soe  well  manured^ 
that  it  is  impossible  almost  it  could  bee  putt  to  better  use 
that  waie ;  for  in  the  Middst  of  their  Cornefeilds  (they 
being  then  reapinge),  were  rancks  in  the  Furrowes  of  Olive 
trees,  Pomgranett  Trees,  Pines  and  figg  trees,  And  this 
even  to  the  gates  of  Spalatra^,  beinge  about  three  miles 
from  the  marke  aforementioned.  It  lyeth  on  the  Sea  side, 
here  abouts  beinge  many  ruines  of  Castles  and  buildings, 
and  many  watch  Towers  on  the  hills  alongst  the  sea 
Coasts  Att  our  arrivall  heere,  wee  were  conducted  to 
a  Lazaretto,  It  being  a  Custome  that  all  Travellors, 
whether  they  come  from  this  or  other  parts,  are  to  abide 
some  certaine  dayes,  vizt.  forty,  thirty,  twenty,  fifteen, 
some  more,  some  lesse,  within  the  said  Lazaretto  before 
they  are  permitted  to  proceede  to  Venice,  or  to  commerce 
with  any  of  their  Subjects,  there  beinge  the  like  in  all  their 

^  Here  the  author  has  a  marginal  note,  "  Christendome,  an 
admirable  chaunge." 

^  "  Excellent  husbandry."     Author's  marginal  note. 

^  Spalato  or  Spljet  (Aspalathos  =  ?  Palatium)  was  built  within  the 
precincts  of  Diocletian's  palace  in  a.d.  303.  Here  the  author  refers 
to  his  extracts  from  Blount,  "  Spalatra,  vid:  Fol :  I."  For  these,  see 
Appe7idix  A.  For  an  account  of  Spalato,  see  Yriarte,  Les  Bords  de 
rAdriatiqne  et  le  Mon/etiegro,  pp.  240  fif. 

*  See  note  5  on  p.  85.  These  "Castles  and  watch  Towers"  were 
erected  by  nobles,  on  land  given  to  them  by  the  Venetians,  as  places 
of  refuge  for  the  peasants  during  the  wars  with  the  Turks.  See 
Wilkinson,  Dalmatia  and  Montettegro,  vol.  i.  p.   173. 


FROM   CONSTANTINOPLE   TO   LONDON  8/ 

Dominions,  and  in  most  parts  of  Italy,  especially  Sea  ports, 
which  they  doe  to  prevent  Infection^  My  Lord  had  one 
of  the  said  Lazarettoes  to  himselfe  wholey,  there  beinge 
roomes  sufficient  for  himselfe  and  company,  when  presently 
was  sent  us  in  beddinge,  lynnen.  Tables,  Chaires  and 
necessaries,  but  not  soe  to  every  one.  Also  fresh  Victualls, 
soe  that  wee  wanted  nothing  but  libertie,  for  noe  man  may 
stirr  out  of  doores  till  his  tyme  bee  out,  which  they  never 
come  to  knowe  till  it  bee  accomplished,  Wee  haveing  a 
Guardian  or  Keeper  to  the  outward  Doore,  as  well  to  see 
wee  wanted  nothinge,  as  also  that  noe  man  must  come  in 
nor  goe  out,  neither  to  approach  within  three  or  four  yards 
of  any  man.  Att  night  our  Guardian  is  shutt  in  with  us, 
and  the  key  carried  away.  This  Afternoone  the  Counte  or 
Earle  of  this  place  came  to  visit  my  Lord,  th'  one  sittinge 
without  the  gate,  and  thother  within,  a  good  way  a  sunder, 
where,  after  some  welcomes  and  Complements  enter- 
chaunged,  they  departed. 

The  22th.  \sic\  June,  1620.  The  Counte  came  again  to 
visit  my  Lord,  of  whome  hee  obteyned  leave  for  John  Clarke"'^ 
to  goe  forth,  being  to  send  him  to  Venice,  there  to  provide 
a  howse  and  accommodation  against  his  arrivall  ;  soe  hee 
departed  that  day.  But  first  hee  was  washed  in  the  Sea, 
afterwards  with  Vineger,  then,  haveinge  another  suite  of 
Clothes  brought  him,  was  licensed,  and  that  eveninge  tooke 
his  passage  in  a  Boate  for  Venice. 

TJie  2gth.  Jtme,  1620.  To  day  wee  had  Prattick^,  which 
is  leive  to  goe  forth,  wee  haveinge  bene  but  the  Tenth  day 
in  all,  which  tyme  is  very  short  in  regard  of  the  ordinary 
continuancyes,    but     herein    his    Lordshipp    was    greatly 

1  Here  the  author  has  a  marginal  note,  "A  Lazaretto,  what  it  is 
and  wherefore  ordained."  Venice  took  the  lead  in  measures  to  prevent 
the  spread  of  the  plague,  and  as  early  as  1348,  appointed  three  officers 
of  health.     The  first  V'enetian  Lazaretto  was  founded  in  1403. 

2  One  of  Pindar's  servants.     See  p.  43. 

^  See  note  2  on  p.  17.     See  also  Sandys,  Travels,  p.  5. 


88  A  JOURNEY    OVERLAND 

favoured.  The  Counte  came  and  Invited  him  home  to  his 
howse,  where  hee  dyned  with  the  Gentlemen.  The  Towne 
is  strongly  built,  furnished  with  many  soldiers  and  many 
brave,  stout  edifices,  although  auntient. 

Mr  Lane^  hired  a  barke  of  Tenn  Tonnes  for  my  Lord 
and  his  Company,  the  Frenchmen  haveing  hired  another 
for  themselves  ;  and  that  night,  haveing  gotten  a  Certificate 
of  Contamacia-,  or  our  abideinge,  wee  sett  saile  with  a  faire 
winde,  and  before  day  wee  past  by  Zara,  a  Venetian  Garrison 
Towne^  where  are  said  to  bee  400  English  Souldiers*. 

The  '^oth.June,  1620.  With  a  soft  Gaile  of  Wynde  wee  kept 
along  the  Shoare  of  Dalmatia,  alwaies  among  small  Islands, 
verie  stoney  and  barren,  as  the  Mayne  seemed  to  bee. 

The  first  July,  1620.  By  noone  wee  came  to  Osoro 
(170  miles)^  a  towne  seated  in  a  narrowe  straight  betwene 
two  Islands'^,  where  boats  must  passe  or  saile  a  great  way 
about,  here  being  a  Drawbridge  att  the   passage  it  selfe'^, 

1  See  note  2  on  p.  42. 

2  J^ar  la  contwnacia  is  a  nautical  expression  meaning.  To  perform 
quarantine.  Compare  Fanfani,  Vocabulario  della  Lijigua  Italiana 
(1855)  s.v.  Contuinacia:  '"''  Far  la  contuniacia  o  Star  ift  contwnacia 
dicesi  delle  persone  e  delle  niercantie  die  per  alcun  detenninato  te7npo 
si  tengono  in  liiogo  separate  per  sospetto  di  peste."  That  is  to  say, 
the  above  expressions  are  used  of  persons  or  goods  kept  apart  for  some 
fixed  time  on  suspicion  of  the  plague. 

^  See  Blount's  description  of  Zara  in  Appendix  A.  Compare 
Lithgow,  Painefidl  Peregrinations,  p.  48,  "  Zara  is  the  capitall  city  of 
Dalmatia,  called  of  old  Jadara.  There  lye  continually  in  it  a  Great 
Garrison  of  Souldiers  to  defend  the  towne  and  Cittizens  who  are 
maintained  by  the   Duke  of  Venice  ;    for  he  is  Signior  thereof." 

See  also  De  Bauveau,  Relation  Jonrtialiere  du  Voyage  dii  Levant, 
p.  4  ;  Du  Loir,  Voyages,  p.  357  ;  PouUet,  Nouvelles  Relations  du 
Levant,  vol.  i.  p.  21. 

*  The  detachment  of  English  soldiers,  which  had  been  sent  out  in 
1618  for  the  assistance  of  the  Venetian  Republic,  was  under  the 
command  of  Sir  Henry  Peyton.     See  p.  92. 

'"  Ossero,  on  the  south-west  of  the  island  of  Cherso.  Compare 
Lithgow,  Painefull  Peregriftations,  p.  47,  "  Valdogosto  in  the  Isle  of 
Osero,  which  is  a  safe  haven  for  ships  and  Gallies."  The  Island  of 
Lussin  was  often  called  Ossero  from  the  prominent  Monte  Ossero  on 
the  North  of  it. 

^  The  narrow  Canal  d'Ossero  which  separates  Cherso  from  Lussin. 

■^  Cherso  and  Lussin  are  united  by  a  bridge  called  La  Cavanella. 


^ 


Sot    n    Vol    17. 


MUNDYS  ROUTE 

IN 
ITALY 


Conipfled  for  the  HaMLorl  Society 


Johii  Barthcaoaipw  L  Cci.3307 


FROM   CONSTANTINOPLE   TO   LONDON  89 

where  wee  noated  that  Current  ran  a  quarter  of  an  hower 
one  waie  and  a  quarter  the  other. 

The  2nd.  Jidy,  1620.  Crossinge  a  Gulfe\  wee  came  to 
the  Cape  of  Istria  (50  miles)-,  and  eighteen  miles  farther, 
wee  passed  betwene  a  little  Island^  and  the  Mayne,  there 
being  a  prettie  harbour  with  a  little  Towne^;  But  by  reason 
of  a  Gallygrosse  or  Galleasse®  there  rideinge,  it  was  thought 
provision  would  bee  scarse.  Theis  Gallyasses  in  shape 
doe  resemble  a  small  Gaily,  but  much  bigger,  And  whereas 
an  ordinary  Gaily  hath  only  Ordinance  on  her  fore  Castle, 
which  exceede  not  six  or  eight  att  most,  theis  have  them 
before  and  aloft  and  also  betwene  every  Oare,  soe  that  they 
carry  fifty  or  sixty  peeces  of  Ordinance*^.  Haveing  spoken 
with  her,  wee  sett  forward  and  came  to  a  very  prettie 
Towne,  called  Rovigno  (12  miles),  where,  att  our  arrivall, 
the  Captaine  of  the  place  invited  his  Lordshipp  and  Gentle- 
men home  to  his  howse. 

The  '^^rd.  July,  1620.  Towards  night,  the  wynde  come- 
ing  faire,  wee  sett  saile  from  Rovigno,  and  the  next  day 
by  noone,  cuttinge  over  a  gulfe^,  wee  came  to  the  Cittie 
of  Venice,  and  entred  by  St.  Jno.  Delio^,  where  the  boate 

^  The  Gulf  of  Quarnero. 

^  Now  generally  known  as  the  Punta  di  Promontore. 

3  Brioni. 

*  Through  the  Canale  di  Fasana.  "  The  prettie  harbour  with  a 
little  Towne"  was  Pola. 

°  i.e.,  a  great  galley.  A  galleass  was  a  heavy  low-built  vessel, 
larger  than  a  galley,  having  both  sails  and  oars,  and  was  chiefly 
employed  in  war.  See  Murray,  Oxford  English  Dictiotiary,  s.v. 
Galiegross  and  Galliass.  Compare  Bargrave's  Voyages  and  Jojtrneys 
{Rawl.  MS.  C.  799),  fol.  20,  "Tlie  [Turkish]  Fleet  [in  1649]. ..consisted 
then  of  about  60  Gallies  and  Gally-grosses  and  30  Shipps." 

^  Compare  Chiswell,  Travels,  1696  {Add.  MS.  10623),  f^l.  20  f., 
"April  26th  Venice... The  Arsinall...here  wee  saw  a  Galiasse  near 
finished,  they  are  very  great  and  unwieldy  Vessels,  carrying  700 
Souldiers  and  Seamen,  besides  300  rowers,  and  are  mounted  with 
32  brass  demi  Cannon." 

^  The  Gulf  of  Venice. 

**  St.  Jno.  Delio  appears  to  be  a  mistake  for  S.  Andrea  del  Lido, 
since  Port  Lido,  one  of  the  three  main  entrances  into  the  lagoons, 


90  A  JOURNEY   OVERLAND 

of  the  Sanita  mett  with  us,  and  our  Certificate  of  Con- 
tamacia  being  firmed  by  g\i  signiorii  de  la  Sanita^, 
wee  had  leave  to  goe  whether  wee  would.  Soe  passing 
betwene  the  two  Castles,  then  which  there  is  noe  other 
way    for    boats    and    Gallyes^,  wee    came    by    St.    Markes 


is  bounded  by  Fort  S.  Andrea  on  the  right  and  Fort  S.  Nicolo  on 
the  left.     See  Admirahy  Chart  1886  (B.M.,  Sec.  V.   1483). 

In  a  map  of  1648  (B.M.,  K.  75,  78  a)  Port  Lido  is  marked  as  Porto 
di  Venetia,  and  in  a  map  of  1820  (B.M.  22665.  2)  it  appears  as  Porto 
di  Niccolo  del  Lido.  Bargrave,  Voyages  a7id  Journeys  {Rawl.  MS. 
C.  799),  fol.  161,  speaks  of  the  "barr  of  Lio,"  and  Chiswell,  Travels^ 
{Add.  MS.  10623),  fol.  21,  calls  the  Castle  of  Lido,  i.e.  Sant'  Andrea,  the 
"  Key  of  Venice." 

^  See  note  2  on  p.  88.  The  following  interesting  allusion  to 
Contiimacia  occurs  in  Bargrave's  Voyages  and  Jon7-7ieys  {Rawl.  MS. 
C  799),  fol.  171,  "  We...anchord...near  ten  miles  distant  from  the 
City  of  Venice.  The  next  day  I  went  to  the  Sanita  (or  Health-house) 
where  I  was  soon  dismissed  with  my  sentence  from  the  Lords  della 
Sanita,  who  in  regard  we  came  from  Turky  (which  is  allways  taken 
for  an  infectious  Shoar)  we  must  attend  our  full  Quarantine  for 
Prattick  ;  Yet  I  had  not  doubted  of  more  speedy  admission,  had  not  a 
Venetian  Mariner  amongst  us. ..sent  into  the  City  a  bed  of  WooU... 
and  Divers  infallibly  had  suffred  but  that  with  bribes  to  some  powerful! 
Officers  they  were  perswaded  to  countenance  a  framd  Excuse  and  only 
punishd  us  with  suffi-ing  the  extremitie  of  43  dayes  Contumacia."  See 
also  Coryat's  remarks  on  "  Bills  of  Health,"  Coryafs  Crudities.,  vol.  i. 
p.  214. 

2  In  a  plan  of  Venice  of  1620  (B.M.,  S.  6g.  12)  Porta  delli  dua 
castelli  is  marked,  the  "dua  castelli"  being  il  castel  novo  (Sant' 
Andrea)  on  the  right  or  N.E.  entrance  into  the  Porto  di  Lido  and 
Fortezza  nova  on  the  left  or  S.W.  These  seem  to  be  the  two  castles 
mentioned  by  the  author.  S.  Pietro  da  Castello  appears  in  a  plan  of 
1630  (B.M.  22670.  3).  In  a  plan  of  1705  (B.M.  22670.  18)  the  Canal 
du  Chateau  is  marked  between  the  Church  of  St  Marie  des  Vierges 
on  the  right  and  the  Church  and  Castle  of  St  Pierre  on  the  left. 
Again,  in  a  map  circ.  1700  (B.M.,  K.  75,  80),  Li  due  Castelli  o  Lido  are 
marked  ;  in  1780  (B.M.  22665.  3)  ^^'^  have  Castel  S.  Andrea  and 
S.  Pietro  di  Castello  ;  in  1850  (B.M.  22665.  4)  ^^'^  have  the  Porto  del 
Lido  marked  with  Castel  S.  Andrea  on  the  right  and  F.  del  Lido  on 
the  left;  lastly,  in  the  Admiralty  Chart  of  185 1  (B.M.,  Sec.  V.  1483) 
we  find  the  Forteresse  et  Porto  de  Lido  with  S.  Andrea  on  the  right. 
Hence,  it  seems  clear  that  Mundy  entered  Venice  by  the  Port  of  Lido 
and  passed  between  the  Fort  of  S.  Andrea  and  the  Fort  known  at 
different  periods  as  S.  Pietro,  Lido  and  S.  Nicolo. 

Compare  Bargrave's  Voyages  and  Journeys  {Raiul.  MS.  C.  799), 
fol.  160,  "  The  most  incomparable  Situation  of  Venice  preserved 
from  the  Violence  of  the  Seae  by  a  barr  of  land,  which  lies  before  it, 
placed  by  Providence  as  a  Guard  to  defend  it,  having  only  three  narrow 
passes  through  it  to  let  in  such  Yessells  as  themselves  please,  whiles 
others  have  no  possibilitie  of  Entrance  and  so  dangerous  is  the  Shoare 


FROM   CONSTANTINOPLE   TO    LONDON  9I 

places  then  to  Canalgrande,  soe  to  Rioalto  bridge^  where 
wee  strooke  our  mast  to  passe  under:  Lastly  to  Canalregio^ 
where  wee  stayed  and  landed  all  our  stufife  att  a  verie  faire 
howse,  which  John  Clarke*  had  provided,  and  most  richly 
furnished  with  hangings,  bedds,  tables,  all  rich,  and  curious 
chaires,  linnen,  aboundance  of  plate  and  necessaries,  the 
howse  beinge  as  curious  within  as  it  was  faire  without, 
the  Chimnye  peeces  of  fine  marble,  beinge  statues  of 
Godds  and  Goddesses,  all  of  most  excellent  Carved  worke, 
which  did  wonderfully  adorne  the  roomes.  Also  a  curious 
garden  full  of  fine  devices  and  marble  Images.  This  howse 
belonginge  to  one  of  the  Privillees^  beinge  of  the  No- 
billitie,  himselfe  att  present  in  Goverment  att  Candy*'. 
There  was  paid  to  the  overseer  for  use  of  the  house  for 


without  the  Barr  that  Every  Stornie  drives  a  ship  to  certain  Ruine,  so 
that  no  Enemies  can  anchor  there  to  hinder  the  City  from  Supphes  ; 
Neither  can  the  smallest  boats  come  to  it  from  the  Terra  firma,  but  by 
narrow  Channells,  in  which  from  severall  little  mounts  used  on  purpose, 
a  few  men  may  stop  the  Passage  to  a  Multitude  of  Enemies." 

^  For  a  contemporary  description  of  Venice,  see  Coryafs  Crudities, 
vol.  i.  pp.  300  ff.  and  Bargrave's  Voyages  and  Journeys  {Rawl.  MS. 
C  799),  fols.   159 — 162. 

2  The  Ponte  di  Rialto  (Rivo  alto)  was  built  in  1588.  Compare 
Rawl.  MS.  D.  120  {Travels  by  an  anonymous  author  in  1649), 
"Venice. ..On  the  most  part  ot  this  city  runnes  water  so  that  you  may 
goe  all  by  water  in  boates  called  gundilowes  of  which  there  are  as  is 
reported  80000.  The  great  bridge  is  called  ponto  realtoo  which  for 
one  arch  is  the  largest  and  biggest  that  I  have  seene." 

Compare  also  Rawl.  MS.  C.  799,  fol.  162,  "The  Rialto  Bridge 
famous  above  all  for  the  Stately  Single  Arch  it  is  built  on." 

^  i.e.  the  Cannaregio,  or  Canale  di  Mestre,  N.E.  of  the  Canal 
Grande.  Many  important  buildings  were  erected  on  both  banks. 
Mundy's  description  of  the  route  taken  is  strictly  accurate. 

*  John  Clarke  was  released  from  quarantine  at  Spalato  on  the 
22nd  of  June.     See  p.  87. 

•5  The  author  appears  to  mean  that  the  owner  of  the  house  rented 
by  Pindar  was  a  member  of  the  privileged  classes  at  Venice.  The 
word  "  Privillees "  is  probably  coined  from  privilegio. 

"  Candia  was  at  this  time  a  Venetian  possession.  In  1667  it  was 
besieged  by  the  Turks,  and,  after  an  obstinate  resistance,  was 
compelled  to  surrender  to  the  Osmans  in  1669.  The  Governor 
General  of  Candia  in  161 2  was  Girolamo  Capello,  but  it  is  doubtful 
if  he  were  still  holding  the  same  office  in  1620. 


92  A   JOURNEY   OVERLAND 

two  monethes,  if  hee  remained  soe  longe,  lOO  Venetian 
Ducketts^  att  4s.  English  each,  and  to  Jevves^  for  hyre 
of  the  furniture,  plate,  etts.,  200  Ducketts  more. 

The  \th.  July,  1620.  Came  Sir  Henry  Payton 
(Collonell  of  the  English  Companies  which  now  serve 
the  Venetians)*  to  visitt  his  Lordshipp  with  divers  other 
English  Captaines  in  his  Company,  vizt.  Captaine  Lucy*, 
Captaine    Theobalds'',    Captaine    Manneringe®,    Captaine 

^  "The  Old  Ducat  of  Venice,  with  the  words  Ducatus  Venetus 
upon  it,  a  Piece  of  6  old  Livres,  afterwards  raised  I  think  to  6  Livres 
4  Sols  de  Piccoli,  4o-5od."  Sir  Isaac  Newton's  Tables,  in  Kelly's 
Universal  Cambist,  vol.  ii.  p.  155.  This  makes  the  value  of  a  Ducat 
to  be  3s.  4|d.  in  the  eighteenth  century  as  against  Mundy's  estimate 
of  4s.  in  the  seventeenth  century. 

Compare  Coryafs  Crudities,  vol.  i.  p.  423,  "  Now  whereas  the 
Venetian  duckat  is  much  spoken  of  you  must  consider  that  this  word 
duckat  doth  not  signifie  any  one  certaine  coyne.  But  many  severall 
pieces  doe  concurre  to  make  one  duckat,  namely  sixe  livers  and  two 
gazets,  which  doe  countervaille  foure  shillings  and  eight  pence  of  our 
money.     So  that  a  duckat  is  sometimes  more  sometimes  lesse." 

^  For  the  position  of  the  Jews  in  Venice  in  the  seventeenth  century, 
see  Yriarte,  Venice,  p.  41  f 

^  Sir  Henry  Peyton  was  appointed  to  the  command  of  the  soldiers 
sent  out  to  assist  the  Venetian  Republic  in  1618.  From  the  Calendar 
of  State  Papers,  Domestic  Series,  30  March  1718,  we  learn  that  "The 
Venetian  Ambassador  prepares  eight  ships  ;  he  will  have  a  Venetian 
Admiral,  but  the  real  command  will  rest  between  Sir  Henry  Peyton 
and  Sir  Henry  Mainwaring."  Among  the  State  Papers,  Foreign, 
Venice,  vol.  22,  there  are  several  letters  from  Sir  Henry  Peyton. 
In  June  1619  (fol.  130)  he  writes  of  the  soldiers  taken  from  Zara  and 
in  December  of  the  same  year  (fol.  172)  he  writes  from  Spalato  of 
"disorders"  between  "two  of  their  ships."  In  February  and  June 
of  1620  Peyton  is  mentioned  as  being  at  Venice  {ib.  vol.  23).  He  died 
circ.  1622.  For  an  account  of  his  career,  see  the  Dictiotiary  of 
National  Biography. 

*  I  have  been  unsuccessful  in  tracing  the  parentage  of  this 
individual,  who  probably  belonged  to  the  family  made  notorious 
by  Shakspeare's  youthful  escapade. 

^  This  individual  seems  to  be  identical  with  the  Captain  Henry 
Theobalds,  mentioned  in  the  Calendar  of  State  Papers,  Domestic 
Series,  under  date  28  February  1625  (p.  486)  as  follows  : — "The  King 
to  the  Sheriffs  of  London  and  Middlesex.  Requires  them  to  deliver 
certain  reprieved  prisoners  in  Newgate  to  Captain  Henry  Theobalds, 
to  serve  as  soldiers  in  the  Low  Countries." 

^  See  ante,  n.  3.  Captain  (afterwards  Sir)  Henry  Mainwaring 
had  made  himself  notorious  in  1616  by  taking  a  ship  from  Joachim 
Wardeman  of  Lubeck,  who  brought  a  suit  against  him.  In  161 7, 
Mainwaring  was  pardoned,  and,  in  1618,  he  (the  "late  pirate")  was 


FROM   CONSTANTINOPLE   TO   LONDON  93 

Tokely\  etts.,  they  liveing"  in  Venice  and  their  Soldiers  att 
Zara^. 

The  20tJi.  Jjily,  1620.  The  Spanish  Ambassador  came 
to  visitt  his  Lordshipp'^,  and  the  next  day  my  Lord  went 
to  him. 

The  2\th.  July,  1620.  The  Duke  of  Savoyes  Ambas- 
sador'* came  to  congratulate  his  Lordshipps  safe  arrivall, 
and  the  next  day  my  Lord  gave  him  Correspondence ;  the 
English  Captaines  every  day  came  one  or  other. 

The  2,yth.  July,  1620.  I  went  with  a  freind  to  see  the 
famous  Arsenall,  a  place  of  about  two  myles  in  compasse, 
walled  round,  haveinge  but  one  entrance  for  a  Gaily  to 
goe  in  or  out,  there  beinge  within  water  for  two  or  three 
hundred  to  ride  afloate.  Here  is  alsoe  about  one  hundred 
great  roomes  open  att  both  ends  for  building  new  Gallyes, 
where  were  some  on  the  Stocks ;  from  thence  to  the  place 
where  they  cast  Ordinance :  Then  to  great  Store  howses, 
of  which  there  are  many  full  of  the  said  Ordinance,  ready 
mounted  on  Carriages.  In  others  were  Gunns  dismounted, 
others  full  of  Carriages  ready  made,  others  with  bullets 
piled  in  seemely  orders     Wee  were  likewise  shewed  where 


given  the  sub-command  of  the  "  Venetian  troops."  See  Calendar  of 
State  Papers^  Domestic  Series^  1616 — 1618,  pp.  359,  425,  530,  and  531. 
The  order  for  "Sir  Henry  Mainwaring's  shipp"  to  serve  Venice  was 
given  on  the  3:st  March  161 8  ;  State  Pape?-s,  Foreign^  Venice^  vol.  22. 

^  I  have  found  no  further  mention  of  this  individual. 

^  These  "soldiers"  came  from  England  in  1618.  See  ante,  pp.  88 
and  92.  On  the  21st  August,  1620,  the  troops  from  Zara  arrived  at 
Venice,  and  were  ordered  to  go  to  Lombardy.  State  Papers,  Foreign, 
Venice,  vol.  23. 

^  The  Spanish  Ambassador  at  Venice  in  1619  was  Don  Alfonso 
della  Queva.     Add.  MS.  27332,  fol.   109. 

*  On  the  9th  February,  1618,  there  is  a  mention  of  the  arrival  at 
Venice  of  Biscina,  an  extraordinary  ambassador  from  the  Duke  of 
Savoy.     State  Papers,  Foreigji,  Venice,  vol.  22. 

^  Compare  A  Jourjtall  of  a  voyage  thro  France  and  Italy  {Sloane 
MS.  2142)  under  date  16  April  1659,  "Wee  went  to  see  the  Arsinal  A 
place  most  famous  for  the  multitude  of  all  things  necessary  belong[ing] 
to  sea  and  Land.     It  is  at  one  end  of  the  City  engirt  about  with  a 


94  A  JOURNEY   OVERLAND 

they  made  Anchors,  Cables  and  ropes,  Rudders,  Oares, 
Masts,  yards,  all  sort  of  Iron  for  gallies,  ground  saltpeter, 
Planck,  Sawyers,  etts.,  with  ware  howses  where  every  of 
the  aforementioned  lay  ready  made.  Then  went  Wee  upp 
staires,  where  were  very  faire  halls,  hung  on  both  sides 
with  Armour  from  the  head  to  the  Knees,  others  with 
swords,  Musketts  Pikes  and  Targetts  to  a  very  great 
number ;  other  halls  with  munition  for  fifty  Gallies  ;  in 
each  Hall  their  being  fifty  pertitions,  and  in  every  of  them 
soe  many  Guns  with  match,  swords,  Pikes,  etts.  sufficient 
for  one  Gallie.  In  other  halls  were  new  sailes  ready  made 
for  soe  many  gallies,  and  as  some  spend,  there  are  others 
made  new  in  their  roomes,  which  are  sowen  by  weomen\ 
of  whome  there  were  att  present  greate  Companies  att 
worked  Divers  other  things  there  were  worth  notice  which 
to  perticularize  would  require  much  tyme,  As  sondry  sorts 
of  auncient  Armes,  also  compleat  Armours  of  certen 
famous  men  reserved   there    for   a   Monument ;    All  theis, 


great  Wall.  It  is  counted  three  mile  in  circuite,  there  being  contin- 
ually both  in  peace  and  warre  some  2000  men  at  worke.  It  was  the 
saying  of  A  great  General  belonging  to  Charles  the  fifth  that  he  had 
rather  have  the  Arsenal  in  his  power  then  four  of  the  best  Cittyes  in 
Italy.  Here  are  places  for  Artilery,  of  powder,  of  Armes,  of  Corslets, 
of  pikes  and  al  sortes  of  Armes  both  for  defence  and  offense  both  for 
sea  and  land.  Here  is  a  very  fine  Armory  and  without  doubt  the  best 
in  Italy,  being  armes  enough  for  60000  horse  and  foote,  and  for  above 
30000  men  at  sea." 

^  Compare  "A  true  Description  of  what  is  most  worthy  to  be  seen 
in  all  Italy,  orderly  set  down,  and  in  sure  Manner,"  &c.  &c.,  in  The 
Harleiaii  Miscellany^  vol.  v.,  "Venice.  The  House  of  Artillery. ..Go 
up  the  Stairs,  and  you  shall  come  into  a  Room,  wherein  are  two 
hundred  Old  Women,  daily  mending  old  Sails,  and  sometimes,  when 
need  requires,  there  are  seven  hundred  daily  working." 

^  The  author  has  a  long  marginal  note  on  the  Arsenal  which  runs 
as  follows: — "The  Arsenall,  severall  places  wherein  (i)  they  build 
gallies,  (2)  cast  Ordinance,  (3)  where  they  keepe  them  mounted, 
(4)  dismounted,  (5)  carriages,  (6)  Bulletts,  (7)  they  made  Cables, 
(8)  Anchers,  (9)  masts,  yards,  oares,  Rudders,  etts.  (10)  iron  worke, 
(11)  plancks,  sawyers,  warehouses  full.  Severall  halls  aloft  full  of 
Armour,  vizt..  Swords,  Pikes,  musketts,  targetts  etts.,  also  munition 
for  gallies,  sales." 


FROM   CONSTANTINOPLE   TO    LONDON  95 

with  the  aforesaid  kept  cleane  and  in  Excellent  good  Orders 
Then  were  wee  brought  to  the  Bucentero^,  a  vessell  like 
a  Gallye,  but  shorter,  thicker  and  higher,  whereon  is 
shewed  the  uttermost  of  Art  for  carved  Worke,  that  being 
over  layed  with  Gold,  soe  that  when  shee  is  in  the  Water, 
shee  appeares  to  be  all  of  pure  gold.  Shee  hath  twoe 
decks.  On  the  Lowermost  sitt  the  Rowers,  and  aloft  sitts 
the  duke  himselfe  in  a  Stately  seate  made  in  her  very 
Sterne,  and  the  Senators  on  each  side.  This  Decke  beinge 
Curiously  inlayd  with  a  Carved  guilded  rooffe  or  false 
deck  overhead.  In  this  vessell  goeth  the  Duke  and 
Nobillitie  of  Venice  to  marrie  the  Sea,  an  auntient 
Custome  observed  every  yeare  on  Assention  Day,  Thus : — 
They  are  rowed  to  a  certaine  place  about  two  or  three 
miles  out  of  Venice,  where  the  Duke  letteth  downe  in  the 
water  a  rich  ringe  by  a  stringe,  holding  it  soe  untill  the 
Clergie  that  goe  with  him  have  made  an  end  of  their 
Ceremonies.  Then  hee  draweth  it  upp  againe,  and  soe  it 
is  finished^  Then  they  retourne  with  the  greatest  musicke 
and  Triumph  they  can  Invent,  there  goeinge  in  Company 
divers    other    vessel  Is    to    assist    the    Marriage,    all    very 


^  For  the  history  of  the  Arsenal  see  Yriarte,  Vetiice,  p.  46  ff. 
Compare  the  following  descriptions  of  the  place: — "The  next  thing 
that  is  worthy  of  notice  is  the  arsenall  (which  the  world  cannot  equall) 
environed  with  a  wall  and  with  the  sea  into  which  you  enter  onely  by 
one  channell  and  by  one  gate.  Its  two  miles  in  circuite.  There  are 
armes  for  1 50000  men  and  they  are  able  to  set  forth  in  a  weeke  1 50 
galleyes  besides  Gallyasses.  There  workes  dayly  2880  men  which 
are  constantly  payed  by  the  state."  Rawl.  MS.  D.  120,  fol.  28 
{Travels  by  an  anonymous  author  in   1649). 

"  The  Arsinall  so  famous  throughout  the  world,  is  about  two  miles 
in  Circumference,  and  strongly  walled  Round,  Wherein  they  say  that 
2500  Men  are  continally  kept  at  worke... the  Magazine  of  small  Armes 
is  very  large  and  Neatly  kept."  Chiswell,  Travels.,  1696  {Add.  MS 
10623),  fol-  20. 

^  See  Coryafs  Crudities.,  vol.  i.  p.  359. 

3  "This  by  relation  of  others."  Author's  marginal  note,  which 
is  omitted  in  the  British  Museum  copy,  Harl.  MS.  2286.  Mundy 
was  not  in  Venice  during  Ascension  week. 


96  A  JOURNEY   OVERLAND 

gallantly  sett  forth  \  Also  when  there  arriveth  any  for- 
raigne  Prince  or  great  Ambassador,  the  said  Bucentoro 
is  sent  to  bring  him  in.  All  the  rest  of  the  tyme  shee 
is  layed  upp  dry  in  a  great  buildinge,  and  besides  covered 
over  with  a  linnen  Cloth. 

To  Conclude  with  the  Arsenall,  Haveinge  all  materialls 
ready e  Cutt,  measured,  squared  and  framed  to  their  hands, 
they  are  able  in  few  dayes  to  build,  rigg,  furnish,  arme  and 
sett  forth  a  good  fleete  of  gallies"-.  In  this  Arsenall  there 
dwells  none  but  the  Guardians  or  the  Keepers,  the  worke- 
men  goeing  forth  every  night,  and  returne  in  the  morninge, 
the  Powder  made  without,  neither  may  any  man  goe  in 
without  lycense  or  favour.      This  place  in  my  opinion  is 


^  Compare  the  following  allusions  to  the  Marriage  of  the  Doge 
of  Venice  to  the  Adriatic  Sea. 

1616.  "Venice.  The  Duke  of  this  Adriatick  Queene,  espouseth 
the  sea,  every  Ascension  day,  by  casting  a  golden  ring  into  it.  Which 
Stultitious  ceremony  by  Pope  Alexander  the  third  was  graunted,  when 
he  fled  to  Venice  for  succour,  being  persecuted  by  Fredericke 
Barbarossa."     Lithgow,  Painefull  P cregrinatio?is ^  p.  40. 

1649.  "  Heere  allso  is  that  Busentowre  a  gaily  in  which  the  duke 
goes  to  marry  the  Sea."  Rawl.  MS.  D.  120,  fol.  28  {Travels  by  an 
unknown  author). 

1655.  "Their  Ceremonies  upon  Ascension  day,  when  theyr 
GaUie-gross  of  State  (calld  Buggean  d'or)  is  lanchd  to  Seae,  a  vessell 
most  richly  adornd,  and  rowed  by  a  multitude  of  men  on  the  lower 
Deck  unseen,  whiles  the  upper  Deck  is  covred,  as  it  were,  with  a  rich 
Canopy  of  Gold,  borne  (towards  the  Sterne)  upon  the  Shoulders  of 
Slaves,  most  artificially  resembled  in  Statues,  which  lively  imitate  the 
paine  they  suffer  under  the  burden,  and  under  this  Canopy  is  Carried 
the  Doge  (the  Duke  of  Venice)  and  the  whole  Senate  of  Venice  as 
farr  as  the  barr  of  Lio,  attended  by  innumerable  Peottas  and  Gondolas 
filld  with  Gallants  and  Ladies... the  maine  Ceremonie  is  the  espousing 
of  the  Senat  to  the  Seae,  which  is  effected  by  the  Duke  throwing 
a  ring  into  the  Seae,  at  which  action  are  let  fly  immediatly  from  the 
adjacent  Forts  great  Gunns  and  fireworkes  without  Count."  Bargrave, 
Voyages  a7id Jotirjieys,  Rawl.  MS.  C.  799,  fol.  161. 

1696.  "The  Vessell  called  the  Baucentoro,  whereon  the  Doge 
and  Senate  upon  Ascention  day  performe  the  Ceremony  of  Marrying 
the  Sea."     Chiswell,   Travels,  Add.  MS.   10623,  fol.  21. 

The  Ceremony  of  "marrying  the  Adriatic"  dates  from  11 74. 
It  was  enjoined  by  Pope  Alexander  III.  after  the  victory  of  the 
Venetians,  under  Doge  Sebastiano  Ziani,  over  the  fleet  of  Frederick 
Barbarossa.     The  last  Bucentaur  was  destroyed  by  the  French  in  1797. 

^  "  What  great  preparation  may  be  done  on  the  suddaine." 
Author's  marginal  note. 


FROM   CONSTANTINOPLE   TO   LONDON  97 

the  most  worthy  notice  of  all  that  is  in  Venice^  although 
there  bee  other  which  deserve  some  observation,  As  St. 
Markes  faire  place  neere  invironed  with  stately  buildings^, 
only  one  part  open  to  the  Sea ;  also  St.  Marks  Tower  to 
bee  ascended  without  Stepps'^  (as  the  Giralda  att  Sevill 
which  is  the  fairest  Tower  I  have  yett  seene^):  The  Bridge 
of  Rioalto  consistinge  of  one  Arch^,  haveing  two  rowes 
of  dwellings  on  it,  a  faire  way  in  the  midle,  and  two 
wayes  on  the  backsides,  beinge  Shopps  of  severall  wares 
and  trades,  of  which  there  are  fowre  Rowes,  that  is  to  say 
two  rowes,  on  each  side  of  the  midle  way  one,  and  one 
on  each  back  way.  Moreover,  the  great  number  of  other 
•stone  bridges  throughout  the  Cittie®,  and  faire  Channells 
of  hewen  stone  with  a  passage  on  either  side,  soe  that  you 
may  goe  to  any  howse  or  place  throughout  the  Cittie  by 
land  or  water''.  The  multitude  of  Gondolls  or  Ferrie 
boats,  the  Curiositie  of  keepinge  them,  haveinge  Tilts  of 
black  Cloth,  with  very  curious  handsome  seats  within, 
ordinarily  rowed  or  skulled  by  one  man,  whoe  standeth 
upright  neere  the  Sterne  of  the  boate,  sometymes  by  two, 
three  and  fower,  accordinge  to  their  occasions  of  haiste 


1  For  a  further  contemporary  description  of  the  Arsenal  at 
Venice,  see  Cory  at' s  Crudities^  vol.  i.  pp.  358 — 361. 

^  See  Coryafs  Crudities^  vol.  i.  p.  314  ff. 

^  Compare  Chiswell,  Travels  (in  1696),  Add.  MS.  10623,  fol-  i^f., 
"The  Tower  of  St.  Marke  is  a  square  Building  of  a  very  considerable 
hight,  and  its  ascent  so  easy,  that  I  believe  tis  possible  to  ride  up  a 
horse  back."     See  also  Coryafs  Crudities,  vol.  i.  p.  325  f 

*  Mundy  paid  several  visits  to  Seville.  See  pp.  14  and  24  and 
Relation  III. 

^  See  note  2  on  p.  91.  Compare  Chiswell,  Travels  (in  1696), 
Add.  MS.  10623,  fol-  19?  "the  chiefest  (bridge)  is  that  over  the  great 
Canall,  called  the  Riallto.  It  hath  but  one  Arch  and  is  deservedly 
counted  a  bold  and  excellent  piece  of  Architecture."  See  also 
Coryafs  Crudities,  vol.  i.  p.  309  f. 

^  Coryat  gives  the  number  of  bridges  at  Venice  as  450,  Coryafs 
Crudities.,  vol.  i.  p.  312. 

'^  See  Coryafs  Crudities,  vol.  i.  p.  312  f. 

M.  7 


98  A  JOURNEY   OVERLAND 

and  stated  The  height,  strength  and  beautie  and  uni- 
formitie  of  their  buildinge  in  generall,  and  especially  over 
the  great  Channells,  as  Canal  grand  2,  Canal  Regio,  etts., 
being  of  the  Nobillitie.  The  aboundance  of  varyeties  and 
dainties  tending  to  sensualitie,  and  the  liberty  thereto ; 
As  also  for  Courtisans,  of  whome  there  are  an  incredible 
number  by  report ;  Theis  baits  drawe  many  hither,  some 
for  Curiositie,  others  for  Luxurie,  there  beinge  wayes  to 
gett,  but  many  more  to  spend,  I  meane  of  some  pro- 
fessions and  conditions. 

The  ^th.  August,  Anno  1620.  Wee  departed  from 
Venice  in  a  passage  boate  of  Padoa^  att  i  liver,  or  8d.* 
per  man,  which  boates,  after  our  comeinge  into  the  River ^, 
are  drawne  with  horses.  Goeinge  upp  the  said  River  are 
three  Sluces,  without  which  it  were  impossible  to  arrive 
neere  the  Cittie,  the  water  beinge  not  a  foote  deepe :  Yett, 
with  the  helpe  of  the  said  sluces,  Barkes  of  five  or  six 
foote  draught,  yea,  prettie  Shipps  may  bee  conveyed®. 
Upon  either  side,  As  wee  passed,  were  Townes  and  many 
pleasant  Country  howses  of  the  Nobillitie  and  gentlemen 
of   Venice,  whether  they  resort   in  Sommer  tyme  for  re- 


1  See  note  2  on  p.  91.  Compare  Chiswell,  Travels,  Add.  MS. 
10623,  fol.  20,  "  There  is  not  a  Coach  or  Horse  in  this  Citty,  but 
instead  thereof  the  Gentry  keep  each  a  small  boat  called  a  Gondalo, 
in  which  being  rowed  by  one  Man,  or  sometimes  two,  they  performe 
their  visitts  etc.,  but  at  their  Country  Houses  upon  the  Terra  firma, 
many  of  Them  have  Coaches  and  Calashes,  severall  Thousands  of 
those  Gondaloes  lye  allwayes  ready  to  be  hired,  they  are  neatly  built, 
and  light,  and  are  rowed  with  incredible  swiftness  and  agility." 

^  See  Coryafs  Crudities,  vol.  i.  p.  306. 

^  See  Coryafs  Crudities,  vol.  i.  p.  300  and  vol.  ii.  p.  i. 

*  Kelly,  Universal  Cambist,  vol.  ii.  p.  153,  has  "Venice... Lira 
piccola  (in  the  old  coins)  5*07  d.,"  which  is  less  than  the  value  given  by 
Mundy.  Also,  in  "Sir  Isaac  Newton's  Tables,"  quoted  by  Kelly  in 
vol.  ii.  p.  155,  the  value  of  an  "old  Livre"  is  given  as  a  little  under  7d. 

^  The  Brenta. 

^  Compare  Chiswell's  allusion  to  the  locks  on  the  Brenta,  Travels, 
fol.  20  {Add.  MS.  10623),  "  By  an  Ingenious  method  wee  were  helped 
over  a  fiatt  in  this  River." 


FROM   CONSTANTINOPLE   TO   LONDON  99 

creation  ^  Att  three  of  the  clock  in  the  afternoone  wee 
came  to  the  Cittie  of  Padoa  (25  miles)'',  and  lodged  att 
the  Starr  in  Piazza  de  la  Paglia^,  at  five  livers'*  per  man 
per  daye.  This  Cittie  is  seven  miles  in  Compasse,  but 
within  are  many  voyd  places  and  ruynes.  It  is  walled 
about  with  Two  walls.  In  the  markett  place  is  a  Hall 
of  neere  100  yards  longe  and  about  35  broad  to  heere 
lawe  suites'. 


^  See  Coryafs  Crudities,  vol.  i.  p.  300,  and  a  Tour  in  France  and 
Italy  (in  1675),  p.  118. 

Compare  Bargrave's  Voyages  and  Journeys,  Rawl.  MS.  C.  799, 
fol.  163,  "Padoa,  where  I  found  observable,  first  the  Site  of  the  City, 
in  a  fruitfull  soile,  on  a  pleasant  Plaine,  in  a  healthy  Aire,  and  a 
plentyfull  and  Cheap  Country  :  It  is  watred  and  trenchd  by  the  river 
La  Brenta,  which  affords  a  delightfull  passage  doune  its  Streame  even 
to  Venice  having  on  its  bankes  varietie  of  Gallant  Pallaces  and 
Villag's,  and  in  the  Summer  most  curious  walks  from  one  to  the  other 
along  the  river  almost  the  whole  way.  It  is  a  convenient  Retirement 
from  Venice  of  about  20  miles  distance." 

^  Compare  A  Jozirnall  of  a  voyage  thro  Fraftce  and  Italy, 
Sloane  MS.,  2142,  "April  21,  1659.  Wee  departed  from  Venice  and 
lay  that  night  at  Padua  going  by  water  from  thence,  being  accounted 
about  twenty  five  miles.  This  Citty  is  very  large,  wherein  is  a  Uni- 
versity which  entertains  gentlemen  of  all  nations." 

^  The  Golden  Star  was  a  well-known  inn  for  two  centui'ies  after 
Mundy's  visit.     Compare  the  following"  allusions : — 

1745.  "  Padua... When  you  come  thither  lodge  at  Alia  Stella,  the 
Star."     Harleian  Miscellany,  vol.  v.  p.  38. 

1775.  "At  Padua  the  Golden  Star  is  a  good  house."  A  Brief 
Account  of  the  Roads  of  Italy,  p.  47. 

1819.  "  Padua. ..L'Etoile  d'or  sur  la  place  des  Noli  (la  meilleure 
auberge  et  la  plus  commode  de  la  Ville)."     Milan,  Itineraire  d' Italic. 

In  1789  Taylor,  Travels  from  Englaitd  to  htdia  in  1789,  vol.  i. 
p.  60  f.,  mentions  the  "Aquila  d'Oro"  at  Padua  as  "an  excellent  inn." 
There  is  still  a  "  Stella  d'Oro  "  at  Padua  in  Piazza  Garibaldi. 

*  See  note  4  on  p.  98. 

^  See  Lithgow,  Paiiiefull  Peregrinations,  p.  415  ;  and  A  Tour  in 
France  and  Italy  (in  1675),  P-  'i^.  The  Hall  of  Audience,  which  is 
300  ft.  long  and  100  ft.  broad,  was  begun  in  1 172  and  finished  in  1306. 
Compare  the  following  accounts  of  this  building  and  of  the  city  of 
Padua : — 

1609.  "  Padua  boasteth  of  her  neighbourhood  to  the  river  Padus, 
her  Universitie,  Antenors  foundation,  fertillity  of  ground,  strong  ram- 
parts, and  repineth  at  her  subjection  to  Venice."  Gainsford,  Glory  of 
England,  p.  80. 

1649.  "Padua  is  rather  ancient  (as  being  the  mother  of  Venice) 
then  beautiful!  and  frequented  rather  for  its  university  then  for  its 

7—2 


lOO  A  JOURNEY   OVERLAND 

TJie  ^th.  August,  1620.  This  morninge  my  lord  went 
to  visitt  the  Earle  of  Arundells  two  sonns\  whoe  were 
there  att  Studdie^  and  that  afternoone  they  came  to  see 
his  Lordshipp,  the  eldest  being  about  eighteen  yeres  of 
age,  the  other  Tenn. 

The  6th.  August,  1620.  Att  Padoa  wee  hired  three 
Caroches^  att  8  dollers  each,  the  doller  worth  8  livers 
8  solz*,  unto  Verona,  Mr.  RandoU  Syms^  accompanyeinge 

pleasant  living.  It  is  much  frequented  by  strangers."  Rawl.  MS.  D. 
120  {Travels,  by  an  anonymous  author). 

1655.  "Padoa,  where  I  found  observable... Its  Walls  all  of  Stone 
handsomely  wrought,  and  admirably  Strong,  having  a  stately  walk 
upon  the  Earth  cast  up  within  them.. .the  Universitie  Great  hall,  in 
which  lie  buryed  Publius  Livie  his  bones  whose  Statue  stands  beside 
them."    Bargrave,  Voyages  and  Journeys,  Rawl.  MS.  C.  799,  fol.  163. 

1696.  "  Padua.. .A  very  Ancient  and  famous  Citty,  but  now  greatly 
declined  from  its  former  glor}',  both  in  Number  of  People,  Riches  and 
Buildings,  also  of  the  University  so  noted  in  History,  there  is  now  but 
little  appearance,  its  incompassed  with  an  old  and  new  Wall,  the  latter 
is  about  six  miles  in  Compass,  and  was  built  according  to  the  moderne 
Fortification  at  the  great  expence  of  the  Venetians  to  whome  the  Citty 
still  belongs,  and  so  is  their  Bulwark  on  that  side... .Wee  went  to  the 
Towne  house  into  which  wee  ascended  by  a  good  number  of  Staires, 
in  length  it  containes  102  ordinary  paces,  and  in  breadth  },'^,  indeed  tis 
a  large  noble  structure,  but  far  inferior  to  Westminster  Hall  with 
which  they  pretend  to  compare  it,  at  the  upper  end  is  the  Monument 
of  that  excellent  Historian  Titus  Livius,  who  was  a  Native  of  this 
Place."     Chiswell,  Travels,  Add.  MS.  10623,  fol.  20  f. 

^  These  were  James  Lord  Maltravers  and  Henry  Frederick,  sons  of 
Thomas  Howard,  second  Earl  of  Arundel.  The  lads  were  sent  to 
Italy  in  1619,  under  the  care  of  Mr  Thomas  Coke,  to  complete  their 
education.  Lord  Maltravers  died  of  small-pox  at  Ghent  in  1624.  See 
Tiemey,  History  aftd  Antiquities  of  Arundel,  pp.  444 — 487. 

^  Coryat  says  there  were  fifteen  hundred  students  at  the  University 
when  he  visited  Padua.  See  Coryafs  Crudities,  vol.  i.  p.  297.  Corhpare 
Hart.  MS.  288,  fol.  284  {Directions  to  Travellers  in  France  and  Italy, 
circ.  1620),  "Padua:  An  Universitie  famous  for  Lawe  and  phisicke, 
frequented  by  all  nations,  who  have  for  each  a  Consul!  whom  they 
change  each  yeare,  during  which  time  those  of  the  same  nation  are 
obhged  to  obey." 

^  The  seventeenth  century  name  of  a  coach  or  chariot  of  a  stately 
or  luxurious  kind.  Murray,  Oxford  EnglisJi  Dictionary.  See  Coryafs 
Crudities,  vol.  ii.  p.  231. 

*  i.e.  8  lira  8  soldi.  According  to  the  value  given  for  a  lira  on 
p.  98,  note  4,  the  dollar  would  be  worth  5s.  6gd.,  reckoning  20  soldi  to 
the  lira.     See  Kelly,  Universal  Cambist,  vol.  i.  p.  244. 

^  "Randall"  or  "  Randalph  Symes"  was  employed  by  the  Levant 
Company  at  Venice,  as  agent  for  the  transmission  of  letters.     He  is 


FROM   CONSTANTINOPLE   TO   LONDON  lOI 

my  Lord  (whoe  came  to  Padoa  twoe  dayes  before  us), 
where  Thomas  Humes  remained,  haveing  Captaine  Winge^ 
in  his  stead,  whoe  was  to  come  with  us  for  England : 
Alsoe  Thomas  Constance  and  Ricardo  an  Itah'an,  bound 
also  with  us.  That  eveninge  wee  came  to  Vicenza  (25 
miles),  a  small  Cittie  about  two  miles  in  Compasse^,  and 
there  wee  lay  att  the  Three  Kings  ^ 

The  yth.  August,  1620.  Mr.  Randoll  Syms  tooke  his 
leave  and  returned  to  Venice,  and  wee  proceeded  to  Villa 
Nova^,  a  Towne  where  wee  dyned  ;  from  thence  to  the 
Cittie  of  Verona  and  lodged  att  the  Cavaletteel 

This  Cittie  is  faire  and  great®,  very  famous  and  aun- 
tient,  where  is  to  bee  scene  an  Amphitheater,  part  of  the 
Romaine  monuments,  of  an  Ovall  forme,  one  third  of 
a  mile  in  Compasse  without  side.  And  within  are  thirty- 
five''  degrees  or  stepps  round  about,  each  of  some  two 
foote  high,  of  hewen  stone,  part  fallen  downe,  but  now 
beginninge  to  bee   repaired   againe,  and   serveth   for  the 


referred  to  in  that  capacity  in  Siate  Papers,  Foreign  Archives,  vol.  148, 
under  dates  28  March,  1622,  22  July,  1624,  and  20  Nov.,  1626. 

^  This  seems  to  mean  that  Captain  Winge  took  Thomas  Hume's 
place  as  one  of  Sir  Paul  Pindar's  attendants.  For  Thomas  Hume,  the 
"  Scottishman,"  see  p.  43.  There  is  no  further  reference  in  the  MS. 
to  Captain  Winge. 

^  Compare  Harl.  MS.  288,  fol.  284,  "  From  Padua  to  Vicenza  are 
18  mile  where  they  reckon  forty  thousand  Soules." 

3  Other  travellers  do  not  mention  this  inn.  Taylor,  Travels fi-oin 
England  to  Itidia,  in  1789,  says  of  Vicenza,  vol.  i.  p.  61,  "Good 
accommodation  and  excellent  inns." 

*  Villa  Nuova  is  a  place  of  little  account  in  the  present  day.  It 
lies  between  Torre  di  Confini  and  Soave,  on  the  old  post  road  from 
Venice  to  Milan.  It  appears  in  a  map  entitled  ''Viaggio  da  Milano 
a  Venezia,"  in  A  Brief  Account  of  the  Roads  of  Italy  (1775).  Coryat 
mentions  the  place  and  says  it  is  17  miles  from  Vicenza.  Coryafs 
Crudities,  vol.  ii.  p.  15. 

^  The  Cavaletta.  I  have  not  been  able  to  trace  the  inn  here. 
Later  writers  mention  the  Due  Torri  (?  the  existing  Londra  e  Due 
Torri)  at  Verona. 

6  Compare  Harl.  MS.  288,  fol.  284,  "  Farther  [from  Vicenza]  30 
Miles  is  Verano,  a  brave  citie,  7  Miles  in  compasse." 

7  The  British  Museum  copy,  Harl.  MS.  2286,  has  "Forty-five 
degrees." 


I02  A  JOURNEY  OVERLAND 

Citties  use  and  recreation  ^  But  in  auntient  tyme  publique 
shewes  were  presented  to  the  people  in  such  as  these, 
Amonge  the  rest,  Condempned  men  exposed  to  fight  and 
strugle  for  their  hves  with  wilde  beasts,  as  lyons,  beares, 
Tigers,  wolves,  etts.,  kept  there  of  purpose,  where,  lett 
them  behave  them  selves  never  soe  valiently,  yett  att 
length  nothing  but  their  misserable  deathes  must  make 
upp  the  multitudes  pastime,  whoe  in  those  dayes  delighted 
in  such  Inhumaine  Spectacles,  as  wee  may  read  in  the 
Romaine   History. 

And,  for  the  better  understandinge  of  an  Amphi- 
theater, I  have  on  the  other  side  sett  the  designe  of  one, 
and  although  not  the  true  draught  of  this,  yett  some  what 
resemblinge  the  same  when  entire^. 

An  Amphitheater^  consists  of  two  Joined  Theaters, 
and  is  therefore  soe  called,  conteyning  no  stage,  consecrated 
commonly  to  Mars,  in  that  Spectacles  of  bloud  and  Death 
were  in  them  exhibited  to  the  people,  as  sword-playing, 
combatting  with  wilde  beasts,  compelling  the  condemned 
to  personate  tragedies  and  acts  butt  fained,  to  performe 
them  in  earnests  Those  that  were  condemned  to  fight 
with  Wild  beasts  Were  exhibited'^  in  the  Mornings.  The 
horror  was  such,  as  weomen  were  forbidden  to  behold 
them,  where  the  killers  in  the  end  were  killed,  and  no 
Way  left  to  avoid  destruction".  Some  allsoe  for  hire  and 
some    for    bravery    undertooke    to    encounter    with    such 

1  The  Amphitheatre  was  built  in  284  a.d.  See  Coryafs  Crudities, 
vol.  ii.  p.  19. 

Compare  Rawl.  MS.  D.  120  {Trai'els,  by  an  anonymous  author,  in 
1649),  "From  hence  [Vicenza]  I  went  to  Verona.  This  is  a  very  beauti- 
full  and  pleasant  city  both  for  cituation  and  building... it  has  three 
fortresses  and  an  amphitheatre,  the  most  entire  of  any  I  have  seen." 

2  There  is  no  illustration  in  the  MS.  Coryat  has  a  representation  of 
the  Amphitheatre  at  Verona.  See  Coryafs  Crudities,  vol.  ii.,  ill.  facing 
p.  24. 

3  The  whole  of  this  paragraph  is  taken  from  Sandys'  Travels. 
Mundy  has  quoted  pretty  accurately,  for  the  most  part,  but  has  re- 
tained his  own  spelling  and  has  omitted  several  passages. 

*  Here,  half  a  page  is  omitted.  ^  Sandys  has  "produced." 

*>  Here,  two  sentences  are  omitted. 


FROM   CONSTANTINOPLE   TO   LONDON  IO3 

beasts,  who  either  perished  or  made  way  by  victory  unto 
safifety.  One  hundred  lyons  were  often  at  once  let  forth 
in  the  court  of  the  Amphitheater,  and  often  beasts  were 
sett  against  beasts,  a  less  savage  spectacle.  Butt  oh  the 
wicked  delight  of  those  barbarous  tyrants,  worthy  to  suffer 
what  they  inflicted  !  Who  caused  Miserable  Wretches  to 
make  histories  of  fables,  and  putt  in  Act  Imaginary 
miseries.  They  being  most  praised  of  the  Dry-eyed  be- 
holders that  exposed  themselves  unto  Death  without 
terror,  either  by  taking  it  from  the  Weapon  of  another, 
or  falling  on  their  owne\  Nor  matterd  it  who  had  the 
part  to  survive,  hee  being  butt  reserved  for  another  daies 
slaughter^.  The  floore  was  covered  with  sand  to  drinck 
up  the  bloud  that  was  shed  thereon.  Vid.  Mr.  Sands  : 
page  70:  71  :  and  J 2^. 

The  Area  or  space  within,  Ovall,  in  length  39  perches, 
in  breadth  22,  att  10  foote  to  the  perche  is  390  foote  long 
and  220  broad.     Read  at  large  C.C.^ 

Alleppo  Merchant,  August  2d.,  Anno  I655^ 

Since  the  writing  hereof  I  got  the  print  of  it  here 
inserted®. 

The  ^tJi.  August,  1620.  Wee  came  to  Cavalsella  (15 
miles)^  a  Towne,  thence  to  Lonatt  (12  miles),  a  little 
Cittie,  and  lodged  att  St.  Markes,  or  the  Venetian  Armes*. 

1  Sandys  completes  the  sentence  with  "  as  the  fable  required." 

^  Here  a  paragraph  is  omitted. 

3  The  extracts  are  taken  from  pp.  270 — 272  of  the  161 5  edition  of 
Sandys'  Travels. 

*  "C.C."  is  apparently  meant  for  Coryafs  Crudities  which  first 
appeared  in  161 1.  Coryat  has  a  long  description  of  the  amphitheatre 
at  Verona. 

s  Mundy  made  his  third  voyage  to  India  in  the  Aleppo  Merchant.,  in 
1655.  He  appears  to  have  revised  his  MS.  during  the  voyage  and  to 
have  added  the  Supplement  to  Relation  I.  as  well  as  several  notes. 
The  extract  from  Sandys  is  in  Mundy's  own  writing. 

6  This  "print"  has  either  been  lost  or  was  removed  by  the  author 
at  a  later  date. 

''  Cavalcaselle,  fourteen  miles  west  of  Verona. 

8  Lonato.  I  have  found  no  other  reference  to  the  inn  mentioned 
by  Mundy. 


I04  A  JOURNEY   OVERLAND 

Betwene  theis  is  Lago  de  Garda,  a  great  lake,  as  they 
say,  about  fifty  miles  in  length  and  seven  or  eight  miles 
broade  in  some  places,  of  Fresh  water,  wherein  are  vessells 
both  for  fishinge  and  transportation^.  Att  the  end  whereof 
wee  passed  through  a  stronge  Castle  called  Peskera^. 

The  gth.  Atigiist,  1620.  Att  Evening  wee  came  to 
Brescia  (15  miles),  a  faire  Cittie  and  verye  stronge,  with 
a  good  Castle,  which  is  noe  more  then  needs^ ;  it  standing 
soe  neare  the  Spanish  Dominions^  Wee  dyned  att  the 
signe  of  the  Tower,  a  very  faire  Hosteria  or  Innel  To 
bee  noted,  as  well  in  this  Cittie  as  also  before  wee  came 
neere  it,  wee  saw  many  people  with  great  Wenns  or 
swellings  under  their  throats,  as  bigg  as  two  fists,  which 
some  say  is  ocasioned  by  drinckinge  the  snovve  water  that 
continuallie  cometh  downe  the  mountaines*^.     From  thence 


1  The  lake  is  34  miles  long  and  3  to  1 1  miles  wide.  Coryat  gives 
its  dimensions  as  35  miles  long  and  14  broad.  Coryafs  Crudities^  vol. 
ii.  p.  40.  Compare  Harl.  MS.  288,  fol.  284  lyDirections  to  Travellers, 
arc.  1620),  "  Fifteen  miles  thence  T Verona]  is  Peschiera  :  hard  by  here 
is  the  Lake  de  gard  well  stored  with  fish,  36  miles  long  and  14  broade." 

^  Peschiera.     See  Coryafs  Crudities,  vol.  ii.  p.  39. 

^  See  Coryafs  Crudities,  vol.  ii.  p.  42  fif.  Compare  the  following 
remarks  on  Brescia  : — 

1609.  "  Brescia...  where  the  language  is  corrupt;  for  belike  they 
have  beat  out  the  fineness  with  hammering  their  armours."  Gainsford, 
Glo7y  of  Ejigland,  p.  90. 

1620.  "Hence  [from  Peschiera]  25  miles  to  Brescia,  famous  for 
tunnes."     Harl.  MS.  288,  fol.  284. 

1648.  "  Brescia  is  a  pretty  towne,  famous  over  most  part  of  Europe 
for  making  of  Armes,  the  mettle  of  which  is  treason  to  transport  out. 
It  has  a  strong  fortresse  strong  both  in  its  Cituation  As  being  built  on 
a  hill  as  allso  on  a  rocke."     Rawl.  MS.  D.  120,  fol.  30. 

1659.  "Brescia,  a  great  and  large  Citty,  and  subject  to  the  Vene- 
tians. The  inhabitants  in  former  tymes  have  raised  many  warres  and 
commotions... the  people  retaine  some  markes  of  their  ancient  fierce- 
nesse,  both  by  the  cruelty  of  their  lookes  and  guns  and  swords  which 
they  continually  carry  about  them."  Sloane  MS.  2142,  under  date 
25  April,  1659. 

*  Brescia  was  on  the  borders  of  the  Duchy  of  Milan,  then  a  Spanish 
possession. 

^  The  "Torre"  Inn  or  the  "Auberge  La  Tour''  at  Brescia  is  men- 
tioned in  Guides  to  Italy  of  1787,  1819,  and  1829.  It  perhaps  survives 
in  the  existing  "Due  Torri." 

''  Mundy  was  particularly  impressed  by  the  sufferers  from  goitre. 
He  has  further  allusions  to  the  disease  later  on. 


FROM   CONSTANTINOPLE   TO   LONDON  105 

wee  came  to  Orsovechio,  a  little  Tovvne,  and  lay  att  the 
Spred  Eaglet 

TJie  loth.  Ajigiist,  1620.  From  Orsovechio  wee  past 
by  Orsonovo"  (2  miles),  a  very  strong  walled  and  well 
kept  Town:  from  thence,  over  the  River  Olio  (i^  miles)=* 
by  boate.  From  Venice  hither  wee  had  extraordinary 
pleasaunt  travellinge,  the  way  plaine,  as  was  all  the 
Countrie  hereabouts,  Corne  feilds  and  pleasant  meadows 
continually  on  either  side.  Amidst  their  Corne,  fruite  trees 
in  Rancks,  and  att  the  foote  of  them  againe  are  vines 
which  Creep  upp  into  the  said  trees.  Then  take  they  the 
vine  branches  of  the  one  tree,  and  twist  them  with  the 
vyne  branches  of  the  next,  and  of  that  which  is  the  next  to 
it,  soe  that  the  Trees,  through  meanes  of  the  vines,  seeme 
to  daunce  hand  in  hand  all  over  the  feild*.  Other  vynes 
then  theis  they  have  not  hereabouts  that  I  could  see ;  also 
many  prettie  brookes  and  Rilletts  runninge  every  waie, 
with  divers  Townes  That  I  have  not  named.  From  the 
River-'  wee  came  to  Sumseenee  (i^  miles),  a  walled  Towne 
under  the  Spaniard'';  then  to  Crema  (5  miles),  a  walled 
Towne  of  the  Venetians^  Fowre  miles  beyond  this  is 
the  Venetian  Territories  ;  and  then  begineth  the  Dutchy 
of  Millan  under  the  Spaniard*,  they  haveinge  Sumseenee 

^  Orzivechi.  I  have  found  no  other  reference  to  Mundy's  "Spred 
Eagle." 

^  Orzi  Nuovi.  ^  The  Oglio. 

*  Here  the  author  has  a  marginal  note,  "Curious  conceived  hus- 
bandrie."  See  also  Symonds'  description  of  the  vineyards  near  Turin, 
quoted  in  Appendix  G.  The  above  is  a  fair  description  of  the  viti- 
culture of  Northern  Italy  at  the  present  day. 

^  i.e.  the  Oglio. 

^  Soncino,  in  the  Duchy  of  Milan  in  Mundy's  day. 

"■  "Crema,  the  last  towne  of  the  Venetians."  Rawl.  MS.  D.  120, 
fol.  30. 

*  Philip  II.  of  Spain  was  invested  with  the  Duchy  of  Milan  by  his 
father,  the  Emperor  Charles  V.  in  1540.  The  Spanish  line  of  Haps- 
burg  retained  the  province  until  1700.  By  the  treaties  of  Utrecht  and 
Baden,  17 13 — 17 14,  Milan  was  annexed  to  the  possessions  of  the  House 
of  Austria. 


I06  A  JOURNEY   OVERLAND 

within  the  Venetian  Dominion,  as  aforesaid.  Then  came 
wee  to  Lotho  (lo  miles),  a  walled  Cittie^  before  which 
runneth  the  River  Sera^  bearinge  small  vessells,  with  a 
broken  wooden  bridge,  soe  past  it  over  by  boate  (lO  miles), 
and  dyned  att  the  Catt  and  the  bell.  From  thence  to 
Mallignano,  a  small  Towne,  and  lodged  att  the  Eagle 
and  Hornel 

The  nth.  August,  1620.  Att  Eveninge  wee  came  to 
the  greate  Cittie  of  Millan  (20  miles),  and  dyned  att  the 
Three  Kings^,  after  which,  my  Lord  beinge  in  his  Coach 
and  on  his  way,  was  mett  by  El  Conde  de  Leria,  Governor 
of  this  Cittie  and  Dukedome  under  the  King  of  Spaine% 
soe  that  our  Journey  was  stopped  for  that  tyme,  my  Lord 
goeing  back  to  our  lodging  with  him,  where  hee  stayed 
a  quarter  of  an  hower  and  departed.  Towards  night  my 
Lord  went  to  visitt  him,  and  then  to  proceede  next 
morninge.  In  this  short  space  and  in  this  famous  Cittie, 
I  went  to  the  Domo"  or  high  Church,  where  lay  the  bodie 
of  Carolus  Boromeo,  late  Cardinall  of  this  Cittie,  whoe 
dyed  about  thirty-six  yeres  since,  and  was  Canonized  for 
a  Saint  some  twelve  yeres  agoe'',  now  in  great  reverence 

1  Lodi.  See  Coryafs  Crudities,  vol.  i.  p.  254  f.  Compare  Rawl.  MS. 
D.  120,  fol.  30,  "Lodi,  the  first  towne  of  the  Duchy  of  Milan." 

2  The  Serio.  Lodi  is,  however,  on  the  Adda,  of  which  the  Serio  is 
a  tributary. 

^  Malegnano.  I  have  found  no  other  reference  to  the  inn  at  this 
place  nor  to  the  one  at  Lodi. 

*  "Milan... When  you  come  thither,  I  would  wish  you  lodged  at  the 
Three  Kings... where  you  shall  be  exceeding  well  entertained."  Har- 
leian  Miscellany.,  vol.  v.  p.  37,  "At  Milan... there  is... a  house  the  sign 
of  the  Three  Kings."  A  Brief  Account  of  the  Roads  of  Italy  (yd  1775). 
The  Auberge  des  Trois  Rois  at  Milan  is  mentioned  in  an  Itifteraire  of 
18 19,  and  the  Tre  Re  at  Milan  appears  in  a  Nouveau  Guide  of  1829. 

^  Leria  appears  to  be  a  copyist's  error  for  Feria.  In  State  Papers., 
Foreign.,  vol.  23,  the  Duke  of  Feria  is  mentioned,  in  June,  1621,  in 
connection  with  a  strife  as  to  the  right  of  passage  of  armed  Spanish 
Soldiers  between  Crema  and  Corvasco.  Feria,  who  was  Governor  of 
Milan  and  commander  of  the  Spanish  troops  in  Germany,  died  in 
Bavaria,  in  1634. 

^  The  Duomo  or  Cathedral  of  Milan. 

^  "  Carolus   Boromeo,  a  New  Saint  in   Millan."     Author's  Index. 


FROM   CONSTANTINOPLE   TO   LONDON  lO/ 

hereabouts,  haveinge  (as  they  say)  done  many  Miracles 
both  alive  and  dead.  He  lyes  in  a  vault  before  the  high 
alter,  there  beinge  another  little  Alter  over  his  body  with 
lights  continually  burninge.  About  the  south  of  the  vault 
is  a  raile  of  Iron,  where  men  may  looke  downe  through 
a  grate ;  and  great  concourse  of  people  doe  continually 
flow  to  it,  where  they  make  their  requests  and  Prayers. 

The  \2tJi.  August,  1620.  Goeinge,  wee  past  by  the 
Castle,  accounted  one  of  the  strongest  in  Christendome^: 
Soe  crossed  over  the  River  Biufalore^,  which   runneth  to 

See  Coryafs  Crudities,  vol.  i.  p.  244,  and  Johnson,  Travellers  Guide 
for  an  account  of  the  Saint  of  this  famous  family  and  his  tomb.  The 
Cardinal  died  in  1584,  aged  46. 

Compare  Lithgow,  Paiiiefiill  Peregrinations,  p.  410,  "A  false 
canonized  Saint.  1  remember  about  twenty  yeares  ago  [from  161 6] 
Paulo  Papa  quinto  Canonized  Carolo  Borrameo,  the  late  Bishop  of 
Milane  for  a  notable  Saint,  being  knowne  to  bee  a  notorious  and 
scelerate  liver  ;  done  sooner  by  fifteene  yeares  then  their  ordinary 
time,  and  that  for  the  touch  of  forty  thousand  Duckats  ;  allotting 
Prayers  Miracles,  Pardons  and  Pilgrimages  to  him,  and  erecting  a 
new  Order  of  Friers,  and  Monasteries  unto  him.  And  yet  the  poore 
Bishop  of  Lodi,  a  good  and  charitable  liver  by  all  reports,  could  never, 
nor  cannot  attayne  to  the  dignity  of  a  Saint,  his  meanes  was  so  small 
when  dead,  and  his  friends  so  poore  being  alive."  Compare  also 
Sloane  MS.  4217  (An  account  of  the  Journey  of  Lady  Catherine 
Whetenall  from  Brussels  to  Italy  in  1650),  fol.  18,  "Milan. ..the  Domo 
or  greate  Church,  where  St.  Charles  of  Boromeos  body  lyes  enterd  in 
the  Middest  of  the  Church  before  the  Cuire.  Hee  was  Arch  Bishopp 
of  the  Towne  some  Three  score  yeares  agoe  and  a  man  of  Singular 
Sanctitie.  His  body  is  inclosed  now  in  a  most  Curious  Christall  case 
(given  by  the  King  of  Spaine)  and  it  is  intire  all  but  a  Little  of  his 
nose  end." 

Mundy  seems  to  have  verified  the  date  of  death  of  the  saint  when 
he  revised  his  MS.  The  copyist  wrote  "about  thirty  four  years  ago,'' 
and  the  B.M.  copy,  Harl.  MS.  2286,  has  the  same.  The  correction 
to  "thirty  six"  in  the  Raivl.  MS.  is  in  Mundy's  own  writing. 

^  Compare  Rami.  MS.  D.  120,  fol.  30,  "  Milan. ..this  is  one  of  the 
four  greate  cityes  of  Italy,  but  wheither  it  deserve  the  title  of  Milano 
le  grando,  it  being  the  lest  of  the  four,  I  know  not.  The  things 
remarkable  heere  the  great  Church... the  fort  or  fortresse  esteemed 
and  deservedly  one  of  the  strongest  of  Christendome  both  in  respect 
of  its  cituation...and  it  is  the  best  furnished  with  all  sorts  of  ammunition 
of  warre  as  also  with  a  garrison  of  4000  men." 

See  also  Coryafs  Crudities,  vol.  i.  p.  247  f ,  and  A  Tour  in  Fj'ance 
and  Italy,  p.  30. 

2  The  town  of  Bufifaloro  is  situated  about  three  miles  from  the 
river  Ticino.  There  is  no  river  of  that  name,  but  the  Canal  of 
Naviglio-Grande  intersects  the  town  of  Bufifaloro  and  was  evidently 
mistaken  by  the  author  for  a  river. 


I08  A  JOURNEY   OVERLAND 

the  Cittie,  wherein  are  great  flatt  bottomed  Boates,  which 
supply  it  with  provision,  fruites,  etts.  from  the  Countrye. 
This  wee  passed  by  bridge  ;  but  two  myles  further,  wee 
crossed  the  river  Tezin^  by  boate,  being  verye  great  and 
swifte.  Soe  to  Nowarra  (25  miles)^,  and  dyned  att  the 
Three  Kings^  From  thence  to  Varselly  (10  miles)*.  About 
two  miles  before  wee  came  hither,  in  our  waye,  wee  past 
by  a  small  fortification  of  the  Spaniards,  or  rather  a  mount 
of  Earth,  it  being  the  end  of  the  Dutchye  of  Millan,  and 
their  Jurisdiction  this  way,  Varselly  being  in  Piedmont, 
and  subject  to  the  Duke  of  Savoyl  It  haveing  bene 
lately  beseidged  and  taken  by  the  King  of  Spaines  forces, 
about  some  difference  betwene  the  Two  princes,  but  sur- 
rendred  againe  to  the  Duke  upon  agreement^  Effects  of 
the  Seidge  wee  sawe ;  for,  about  a  mile  from  the  Towne, 
were  a  great  number  of  dwellings,  etts.  buildings  battered 
downe  and  levelled  with  the  ground.  The  Cittie  of  it 
selfe  is  reasonable  well  and  strongly  walled  Round  about, 


^  The  Ticino. 

^  Novara.     See  Coiyai's  Crudities,  vol.  i.  p.  239. 

3  The  Tre  Re  at  Novara  is  described,  in  1842,  as  "a  tolerable 
Italian  Inn."  The  inn  is  also  mentioned  in  Guide  books  of  1787, 
1819  and  1829. 

*  Vercelli.     See  Coryafs  Criidities,  vol.  i.  pp.  234 — 237. 

^  Compare  Add.  MS.  34177  i^Accotcnt  of  a  Journey  over  Mt.  Cenis 
etc.),  fol.  52,  "A  little  beyond  it  [Vercelli]  wee  rode  through  a  little 
river. ..and  then  were  in  the  Dutchy  of  Milan. ...Verceil  is  the  last 
towne  of  the  Duke  of  Savoy  towards  Milan." 

See  Coryafs  Crudities.,  vol.  i.  p.  234,  where  this  statement  is 
confirmed. 

^  Vercelli  was  besieged  and  taken  by  Spanish  forces  in  161 7. 
In  July  of  that  year  Sir  Henry  Wotton,  the  English  ambassador 
at  Venice,  writes,  "  We  stand  in  a  quotidian  feaver  about  Vercelles 
and  extreamly  doubtfull  of  the  event  of  that  important  Seige."  {State 
Papers,  Foreig7i,  Venice,  vol.  22,  fol.  233.)  In  August,  news  reached 
Venice  of  the  fall  of  Vercelli  and  a  treaty  was  proposed  between  Spain 
and  Savoy.  Sir  Henry  Wotton  wrote  that  if  Vercelli  were  not  restored, 
"  the  Duke  of  Savoye  will  not  be  quiet  nor  the  Venetians  without  him." 
{Ibid.  fol.  241).  On  March,  1618,  there  was  no  change  in  the  situation, 
"  In  Lombardie  thinges  stand  as  they  did,  and  so  shalbe  my  song  till 
Vercelli  be  restored."  {Ibid.  fol.  249.)  The  surrender  of  the  town  to 
Savoy  took  place  shortly  after.  It  was  re-taken  by  the  Spaniards 
in  1638. 


FROM   CONSTANTINOPLE   TO   LONDON  IO9 

although  not  very  bigg  nor  faire.  Wee  lodged  att  the 
Cardinalls  hatt. 

The  i^th.  Aiigiist,  1620.  Wee  came  to  Seean  (16 
miles)\  and  dyned  att  the  Angell  (10  miles),  and  from 
thence  to  the  Citty  Cheebas^  and  lodged  att  the  golden 
lyon  without  the  Gates. 

The  14th.  August,  1620.  From  Cheebas  wee  came  to 
the  Cittie  of  Turin  (14  miles),  the  principall  seate  of  the 
Duke  of  Savoy'\  himselfe  was  now  absenf.  Within  two 
miles  of  the  Cittie  wee  past  a  greate  River®  by  boate, 
where  mett  us  two  Footemen  whoe,  haveinge  spoken  with 
my  Lord,  returned  with  all  speede".  One  mile  farther, 
there  mett  him  in  a  Coach  Sir  Isaack  Wake,  our  Kings 
Ambassador  to  this  Duke^,  and  halfe  a  mile  farther  wee 
mett  the  Dukes  generall,  and  with  him  twenty  five  Knights 
in  Compleat  Armour,  whoe  came  to  conduct  my  Lord  into 
the  Cittie,  and  soe  to  his  lodginge,  being  a  very  faire 
howse  of  the  Dukes  ready  furnished.     There  beinge  also 


1  See  Coryafs  Crudities,  vol.  i.  p.  233.  He  gives  the  distance 
from  Sian  to  Turin  as  24  miles,  i.e.  four  miles  less  than  Mundy's 
estimate. 

^  Chivasso. 

3  "Turin,  the  Cheifif  Citty  of  Piedmont."  Author's  Index.  See 
Coryafs  Crudities,  vol.  i.  p.  230,  for  a  description  of  Turin.  From 
Turin  to  Paris,  Mundy  followed  almost  the  same  route  as  that  taken 
by  Richard  Sj^monds  from  Paris  to  Turin  in  1648.  Symonds'  Note 
Books,  Ha7-l.  MSS.  943  and  1278,  contain  much  valuable  contemporary 
information  and  are  freely  used  in  this  volume.  The  greater  part  of 
Harl.  MS.  943  has  been  reproduced  in  Appendix  G,  where  Symonds' 
remarks  on  Turin  will  be  found. 

*  The  Duke  of  Savoy  at  this  period  was  Charles  Emanuel  IL,  who 
governed  Savoy  and  Piedmont ;  his  eldest  son  took  the  title  of  Prince 
of  Piedmont. 

s  The  Po. 

''  In  the  Rawl.  MS.  there  is  inserted,  at  this  point,  a  double-page 
map  of  the  Duchy  of  Savoy  by  Hondius  (undated)  with  Mundy's 
route  marked  in  red  dotted  lines. 

"^  Sir  Isaac  Wake,  ?i58o — 1632,  was  the  British  representative 
at  the  Court  of  Savoy  from  161 5  until  his  death  in  1632.  He  was 
knighted,  while  on  a  visit  to  England,  in  1619.  For  a  full  account 
of  his  career  see  the  Diet,  of  Nat.  Biog. 


no  A  JOURNEY   OVERLAND 

appoynted  to  attend  him  twelve  Switzers^  att  the  Gate, 
six  footemen,  six  of  the  Dukes  owne  Pages,  Usher, 
Steward,  Carver,  Pantler^  Butler,  Cookes,  Jester,  as  if  it 
were  for  the  Dukes  owne  person :  Also  the  provisions 
att  the  Dukes  charge*. 

The  i^tJi.  AtigHst,  1620.  His  Lordshipp  went  to  visit 
the  Kinge  of  France  his  Sister,  married  to  the  Dukes 
eldest  Sonne  Prince  of  Peidmont'*,  whoe  had  her  lodginge 
a  part :  from  thence  to  the  Dukes  three  daughters,  two  of 
them  virgines  and  the  third  a  widowe,  being  married  to 
the  Duke  of  Mantua  deceased,  about  which  befell  the 
difference  betwene  the  Kinge  of  Spaine  and  this  Duke, 
as  is  before  touched^:  From  thence  to  the  Dukes  three 
Sonnes,    one    of    them   beinge    a    CardinalP:    Afterwards 


^  i.e.^  as  a  body-guard.  The  Swiss  mercenaries  dated  from  1464, 
when  500  Swiss  footmen  were  brought  by  the  Duke  of  Calabria,  son 
of  Rene,  King  of  Sicily,  to  serve  in  the  French  army. 

2  Now  obsolete.  Originally,  the  duties  of  the  pantler  or  pantryman 
were  associated  only  with  food,  as  those  of  the  butler  were  exclusively 
confined  to  liquors. 

^  Here  the  author  has  a  marginal  note,  "  My  Lord  conducted  in 
State  into  the  Cittie,  my  lords  honourable  entertainment  att  Turin 
by  the  Dukes  order." 

*  Christine,  second  sister  of  Louis  XIII.  of  France  was  given  in 
marriage  to  Victor-Amadeus  of  Piedmont  in  1619.  Symonds,  who 
visited  Turin  in  1649,  says  that  the  inhabitants  of  the  city  were 
composed  of  "as  many  French  as  Italian  by  reason  of  the  Dutches 
of  Savoy  who  is  sister  to  the  late  King  of  France."     Vide  Appendix  Q. 

^  Charles  Emanuel  I.,  Duke  of  Savoy  (who  was  fifty-eight  years 
old  at  the  time  of  Mundy's  visit),  had  ten  children  by  his  wife,  the 
Infanta  Catherine,  daughter  of  Philip  II.  of  Spain,  five  sons  and  five 
daughters.  Margaret,  the  eldest  daughter,  was  married  to  Francis 
de  Gonzaga,  Duke  of  Mantua,  in  1608,  in  order  to  cement  a  treaty 
with  Spain.  He  died  in  161 2,  leaving  only  one  surviving  child,  a 
daughter.  The  guardianship  of  the  little  princess  of  Mantua  led  to 
the  most  unfriendly  relations  between  Spain  and  Savoy.  There  were 
frequent  hostilities,  one  of  the  aggressive  acts  of  the  Spaniards  being 
the  siege  of  Vercelli,  as  noted  by  the  author  (see  ante^  p.  108). 

Of  the  other  four  daughters  of  Charles  Emanuel,  two,  Marie  and 
Frangoise-Catherine,  became  nuns  :  the  second,  Isabella,  married  the 
Duke  of  Modena  and  died  in  1626,  and  the  youngest  died  in  infancy. 

^  Of  the  five  sons  of  Charles  Emanuel,  the  eldest  died  in  1605,  and 
the  youngest  was  Grand  Prior  of  the  Abbey  of  Castile.     The  three 


FROM   CONSTANTINOPLE   TO   LONDON  III 

conveyed  through  the  Cittie,  accompanied  by  the  Generall 
and  Sir  Isaake  Wake  etts.' 

The  \6tJi.  August,  1620.  This  morninge  my  lord  went 
to  see  the  Dukes  great  Gallerye^  beinge  about  130  yards 
longe,  adorned  with  Curious  statues  and  Pictures,  with  48 
presses  of  bookes  and  great  store  of  Armour^ 

About  one  a  Clocke  in  the  Afternoone  my  lord  de- 
parted Turin,  haveinge  taken  his  leave  of  the  Dukes 
Children  and  largely  gratefied  all  the  officers  and  Dukes 
servants,  beinge  accompanied  out  of  the  Cittie  in  the  same 
manner  hee  was  received  in.  And  att  about  a  myles  end, 
the  Generall  and  Knights  tooke  their  leaves  and  returned  : 
but  Sir  Isaak  Wake  kept  him  Company  (being  both  in 
one  Coach)  to  our  lodgings  att  Viana  (10  miles)"*,  which 
was  att  the  three  flowre  de  Luces.  Hard  by  the  Towne 
is  a  Castle  on  the  Topp  of  a  very  highe  Rock^ 

The  lyth.  August,  1620.  Sir  Isaak  Wake  haveing 
taken  his  leave  of  my  Lord,  returned  to  Turin,  but  wee 


sons  whom  Pindar  visited  were,  Victor-Amadeus,  who  succeeded  his 
father,  Maurice,  a  Cardinal,  who,  in  1642,  left  the  Church  and  married 
his  niece,  and  Thomas-Francis,  Prince  of  Carignan.  For  a  full  account 
of  Charles  Emanuel  I.  and  his  family,  see  Le  Grand  Diclionnatre 
Historique,  par  Louis  Moreri. 
^  See  note  3  on  p.  1 10. 

^  Compare  Lansdowne  MS.  720,  fol.  36,  "  La  galerie  de  son  Altesse 
qui  est  remply  et  orne  de  plusieurs  chose  singulieres  et  exquises." 
See  also  Coryafs  Crudities,  vol.  i.  p.  231. 

^  Here  the  author  has  a  marginal  note,  "This  by  relation." 
Compare  Dumont,  A  New  Voyage  to  the  Levant  (in  1689),  p.  55, 
"Turin...!  cou'd  not. ..discover  any  other  Antiquities  than  those  m 
the  Duke's  Gallery,  which  is  full  of  all  sorts  of  fine  Paintings,  rare 
Manuscripts,  Medals,  Vases,  and  other  Curiosities  of  that   Nature." 

*  Avigliana.  Compare  Lattsdowne  MS.  720,  fol.  34,  "  Avigliana 
Petite  Ville  par  le  milieu  de  laquelle  il  fault  passer,  situee  sur  une 
montaigne  non  toutesfoys  gueres  haulte."  Compare  also  Raivl.  MS. 
D.  207,  fol.  18  {Passage  over  the  Alpes,  in  1688),  "I  took  horse  at 
the  three  Kings. ..at  Turin. ..we. ..had  a  sight  of  Avigliano,  a  place  of 
pleasure  belonging  to  the  Duke  of  Savoy  and  finely  situate  on  the 
rising  of  a  hill." 

^  This  appears  to  be  the  Castle  alluded  to  by  Symonds  as  Villiano. 
Vide  Appendix  G. 


112  A  JOURNEY   OVERLAND 

proceeded  to  Burchelleena  (lo  miles)',  the  way  plaine 
although  wee  began  to  enter  the  Alpes,  haveing  high 
mountaines  on  either  side.  Wee  dyned  att  the  three 
Pigeons,  and  from  thence  to  Novellesa  and  lodged  att 
the  Posthovvse^  The  Towne  standeth  att  the  foote  of 
a  very  high  Mountain e^. 


^  Bussoleno.  In  the  early  part  of  the  19th  century  this  was  the 
usual  halting-place  for  the  night  for  travellers  who  had  crossed 
Mt.  Cenis  and  were  bound  for  Turin.  See  Galignani's  T7-avelle'r's 
Gtnde  (1819),  p.  xx.,  whei^e,  however,  the  "Three  Pigeons"  is  not 
mentioned. 

^  Novalese  was  also  one  of  the  regular  halting-places  for  travellers 
between  France  and  Italy  up  to  the  early  part  of  the  19th  century. 
Compare  the  following  accounts  of  the  place  and  the  country  around 
it  :— 

1575.  "Aupiedde  la  montaigne  [Mt.  Cenis]  La  Novareze...qui  est 
un  gros  bourg  que  ceux  de  Lanebourg  qui  parlent  francoys  nomment 
La  Novalaise  et  est  la  pose  ordinaire  de  ceux  qui  ont  passe  la 
montaigne,  ainsy  que  Lanebourg  de  I'aultre  cost^  de  Savoye....Icy  se 
commence  a  parler  Italien  Piedmontoys  qui  est  une  langage  fort 
corrompu...a  la  sortye  de  ce  bourg  Ion  commence  a  cheminer  par 
cjuelques  petits  plaines  pierreuses  enserrees  de  montaignes  d'un  coste 
et  d'autre."     Lansdowne  MS.  720,  fol.  31  f 

1688.  "We  rode  all  the  afternoon  upon  rocky  ground  between  the 
Mountains  which  were  on  both  sides  of  a  vast  height.  From  the  Top 
of  'em  there  fell  down  little  Rivulets  of  snow  water,  which  dividing 
them  selves  in  falling  into  severall  Channels  or  Cascades  made  a 
rabbling  in  their  discents  which  added  much  to  the  horror  of  the 
place,  the  sight  being  on  all  sides  terminated  with  the  Prospect  of 
barren  Rocks,  very  high  and  very  steep.... Wee  lodged  that  night  at 
Novalese  a  wretched  little  Town  aboute  three  miles  from  Suse... 
scituate  at  the  foot  of  Mount  Cenis.... The  inhabitants  of  Novalese  get 
their  living  by  accommodating  Strangers  with  Mules  or  Chairs  for  the 
passage  of  this  Mountain.. ..They  are  most  Notorious  Knaves,  and  lye 
continually  upon  the  Catch  to  cheat  strangers  in  their  bargains.'' 
Rawl.  MS.  D.  207. 

See  also  Coryafs  Crudities,  vol.  i.  p.  225  ff.,  where  the  place  is 
called  Novalaise,  and  Symonds'  account  in  Appendix  G,  where  it  is 
La  Novaleze.  In  the  GentleincDfs  Guide  of  1787,  the  Post  is  mentioned 
as  the  chief  inn  at  Novaleze,  and  in  Galignani's  Travellefs  Guide  of 
1 8 19  Novalezza  is  mentioned  as  the  place  for  dining  after  the  descent 
of  Mt.  Cenis  into  Italy. 

^  Mt.  Cenis.  Here  the  author  has  a  marginal  note,  "Entrance 
of  the  Alpes."  Compare  Gainsford,  Glory  of  E}tgla?id,  p.  9  f ,  for  a 
fanciful  derivation  of  the  name  : — "  Mount  Sinese,  the  onely  passage 
of  the  Alpes  into  Italy.  It  is  called  Sinese,  quasi  nunquam  sifie  fteve, 
never  without  snow,  and  is  indeed  a  dangerous,  tedious  and  cold 
travell  even  in  the  midst  of  summer." 


Ser.  n.  Vol.  17 


Longitude    West   2    of  GreenMch 


Longitude  East  2  of  Greenwich 


Compiled    for    the  Haklujl    Society- 


John    Bartholomew  &CoJ907 


FROM   CONSTANTINOPLE   TO   LONDON  II3 

The  \2)th.  August,  1620.  Wee  began  to  ascend  the 
Mountaine  aforesaid,  which  wee  found  to  be  steepie  and 
Rockey.  Att  three  miles  wee  passed  over  a  litle  bridge 
which  divideth  Savoy  from  Piedmont,  wee  now  entringe 
into  Savoy^  The  ascent  may  bee  about  five  miles.  On 
the  topp  is  a  plaine  of  two  miles  and  a  halfe  longe  and 
a  faire,  cleire  Lake  of  about  a  mile  and  a  halfe  in  Com- 
passed. By  the  lake  is  a  howse  built  purposelye  when 
the  Kinge  of  Fraunce  his  Sister  came  to  be  married  to 
the  Dukes  sonne  (as  before  mentioned^)  that  they  might 
heere  refresh  themselves  after  their  wearie  ascendinge  the 
Mountaine.  The  Duke  himselfe,  returninge  from  his  pro- 
gresse,  was  then  in  the  said  howse  where  hee  stayed  to 
meete  my  Lord,  hearinge  of  his  departure  from  Turin, 
and  haveing  mett  great  Companies  of  his  followers  in  our 
ascendinge  the  Hill  and  on  the  Plaine.  Att  our  arrivall 
to  the  howse,  his  Lordshipp  went  to  visitt  and  thanck  his 
highnes  for  the  great  honour  and  loveinge  entertainement 
which  hee  had  received  att  Turin  ^.  And  soe,  haveing 
taken  his  leave,  wee  departed  and  came  to  the  discent 
of  the  mountaine,  which  was  wonderfull  Steepie,  soe  that 
every   man   allighted^  my  Lord   being   carried   downe  in 

^  In  the  map  of  Savoy  by  Hondius  mentioned  in  note  6  on  p.  109, 
"La  grand  +"  is  marked  at  the  boundary  between  Savoy  and  Piedmont. 

2  Compare  Laiisdowne  MS.  720,  fol.  28,  ''En  ceste  plaine  du  Mont 
Senys  y  a  deux  lacs  le  grand  et  le  petit,  esquelz  y  a  poisson." 

Compare  ?\so  Rawl.  MS.  D.  207,  "  Mount  Cenis...is  the  highest  and 
difficultest  to  passe  of  all  the  Alpes  :  Tis  Computed  to  bee  three  miles 
in  its  ascent,  three  upon  the  Plain  and  four  in  its  discent,  the  top  is 
covered  with  Snow  all  Moneths  in  the  year  except  from  the  latter  end 
of  June  to  the  beginning  of  August,  from  which  time  it  begins  to  fall 
and  continues  by  fits  all  the  Winter." 

See  Symonds'  account  of  "  Mont  Sinnys "  in  Appendix  G,  and 
Dumont,  A  New  Voyage  to  the  Levant.,  p.  54  ;  see  also  A  Tour  in 
France  and  Italy.,  p.   24. 

^  See  note  4  on  p.  no. 
*  See  pp.  109 — III. 

°  Compare  Gainsford's  remarks  on  Mt.  Cenis  and  its  neighbour- 
hood. Glory  of  England.,  p.  98  f.,  "  The  passages  to  all  these  places 
are  somewhat  fearfuU  to  strangers,  For  to  ride  under,  and  behold  such 

M.  8 


114  A  JOURNEY   OVERLAND 

a  chaire  betwene  Two  men,  there  being  those  that  attend 
there  for  that  purpose,  whoe  gett  their  liveing  thereby^ 
The  Descent  is  three  miles.  Att  the  bottome  lyes  Lam- 
bort  (lo  miles)^,  a  small  Towne,  and  wee  dined  att  the 
three  Kings  I 

Note  that  in  all  the  Countrie  of  Piedmont  the  people 
began  to  alter  the  Italian  tongue,  it  being  hard  for  us  to 
understand  their  language,  but  on  this  side  the  mountaine 


mighty  mountaines  and  rockes,  to  see  the  snow  dissolve  and  runne 
downe  with  that  impetuous  force... is  a  thing  both  of  admiration  and 
pleasure.  But  for  mine  owne  part,  it  startled  me  not  at  all,  in  regard 
I  had  marched  over  some  mountaines  and  places  in  Ireland,  especially 
Pen  men  m.awre  in  Wales,  which  for  the  length  of  the  passage  is  the 
fearefullest  that  ever  I  saw... and  indeed  surmounteth  any  place  of 
Savoy  or  the  Alpes." 

See  Coryat's  Crudities^  vol.  i.  p.  224,  see  also  Symonds'  remarks, 
quoted  in  Appendix  G,  and  Dumont,  A  New  Voyage  to  the  Levant, 
P-  54- 

'  Compare  Lansdowne  MS.  720,  fol.  26  f.,  "  Sur  le  hault  de  la 
montaigne  y  a  hommes  avec  chaires  esquelles  Ion  se  met  et  assist. 
L'un  d'lcieux  va  devant... tenant  comme  deux  brancards  en  ses  mains 
lesquelz  tirent  la  chaire,  et  derrier  Icelle  y  a  un  aultre  homme  qui... 
tient  la  chaire  droicte  qu'elle  ne  renverse....Par  ce  moyen  se  faict  una 
lieue  entiere  en  peu  de  temps  estant  avec  ce  bien  a  son  Aise  en  mauvais 
chemin.  Et  d'aultant  que  premierement  Ion  usoit  de  grands  rameaux 
au  lieu  de  Chaires,  Ion  appelloit  cela  Ramasser." 

Compare  also  Sloane  MS.  4217,  Travels  (in  1650),  fol.  14,  "Mont 
Cenis...the  highest  hill  in  Italy.. .wee  ventured  upon  it  being  covered 
with  ice  and  snow.  Her  Ladyship  and  her  husband  were  carryed  by 
Morans,  that  is  men  who  have  noe  other  trade  but  to  carry  men  in 
Chaires  made  for  the  purpose  up  and  downe  that  hill,  fower  to  every 
chaire  to  rest  and  guide  the  chaire,  whiles  the  other  two  beare  the 
burthen  ;  they  have  Irons  in  the  midst  of  theire  shoes  which  hinder 
them  from  slipping."  Symonds  says  the  cost  of  descending  the 
Italian  side  of  the  Mountain  in  a  "Chaire"  was  five  shillings.  Vide 
Appendix  G. 

^  Lanslebourg.  The  name  of  this  town  seems  to  have  been  a 
puzzle  to  travellers.     Compare  the  following  : — 

1575.  "  Lanebourg,  gros  bourg  au  pied  du  mont  Senys...ou  Ion 
parle  Francoys  Savoyart."     Lansdowne  MS.  720,  fol.  24  i. 

161 1.     Coryat  has  Lasnebourg.     Co?yafs  Crudities,  vol.  i.  p.  224. 

1 648.     Symonds  has  "  Lanbourg,  a  small  village."   Vide  Appendix  G. 

1650.  "Lanebourg  att  the  foote  of  Mont  Cenis."  Sloane  MS. 
4217,  fol.   14. 

1787.  "Lanebourg  the  best  place  to  repose  at."  Tlie  Gejitleman's 
Guide. 

3  In  none  of  the  MSS.  that  I  have  seen  is  the  Three  Kings 
mentioned. 


FROM   CONSTANTINOPLE   TO    LONDON  II5 

they  speake  broken  French \  From  Lambort  wee  came  to 
Bramant  (6  miles),  alwaies  betwene  the  Hills,  and  lodged 
att  the  three  flower  de  Luces  I  From  Lambort  hither 
wee  came  alonge  by  a  swifte  River^,  there  beinge  all  the 
way  great  falls  of  Water^  which  tumbleinge  downe  the 
hills  maketh  the  said  River,  which  runneth  with  great 
violence  and  noyse  betwene  the  Mountaines. 

The  igt/i.  August,  1620.  From  Bramont  wee  came  to 
St.  Michells  (8  miles)^,  where  haveinge  dyned,  wee  pro- 
ceeded to  St.  Johns  (4  miles),  a  Stronge  walled  Towne 
and  lodged  att  the  Blackemores  head";  this  day  all  alonge 
by  the  river  afore  mentioned".      Heere  his  Lordshipp  had 


^  See  Appendix  G  for  Symonds'  remarks  on  the  "corrupted 
Italian"  and  "such  kind  of  French"  as  he  heard  in  his  Journey 
over  Mt.  Cenis. 

"In  Lansdowne  MS.  720,  fol.  24,  this  place  appears  as  Bremont, 
and  in  the  map  of  Savoy  by  Hondius  (see  note  6  on  p.  109)  it  occurs  as 
Branault.  Compare  Gainsford,  Glory  of  Ejigland.,  p.  98,  "  Bramont, 
a  city  of  that  antiquity,  that  Caesar  filleth  some  part  of  his  Commen- 
taries with  her  relations." 

I  have  found  no  reference  to  the  inn  where  Mundy  lodged. 

^  The  Arc.  Compare  La7tsdorvne  MS.  720,  fol.  21,  "A  la  sortye 
du  Montmillian  se  trouve  un  pont  du  boys,  long  de  deux  traicts  d'arc... 
sur  lequel  il  fault  passer,  et  soubz  iceluy  cousle  une  riviere  qui  vient  du 
mont  Senyz,  laquelle  depuis  sa  source,  Jusques  icy  est  appellee  pour  sa 
rapacite  Arc  et  d'icy  descendant  plus  bas  est  nommee  Lisere." 

*  Coryat  says  that  he  saw  "at  the  least  a  thousand  torrents" 
between  "  Aiguegbelette  and  Novalese."  See  Coryafs  Crudities., 
vol.  i.  p.  221. 

^  "  St.  Michel,  Petite  Ville  bastye  sur  le  declin  d'une  fort  haulte 
roche."  Lansdowne  MS.  720,  fol.  23.  Symonds  calls  it  "a  close 
nasty  bourg."     Vide  Appendix  G. 

^  St  Jean  de  Maurienne.  Compare  La?tsdowne  MS.  720,  fol.  23, 
"Sainct  Jehan  de  Morienne....Ceste  ville  n'est  forte  ny  de  murailles, 
ny  de  fossez,  hors  icelle  est  I'evesche."  Du  Verdier,  Voyage  de  France, 
p.  399,  calls  the  place  S.  Jean  de  Montane.  In  the  map  of  Savoy  by 
Hondius  (see  note  6  on  p.  109)  it  is  marked  as  S.  Jean  de  Muriane. 
See  Symonds'  description  of  the  place,  quoted  in  Appendix  G.  See 
also  Coryafs  Crudities.,  vol.  i.  p.  223,  and  Dumont,  A  New  Voyage 
to  the  Levant.,  P-  53-  I  have  found  no  other  reference  to  the 
"  Blackemores  head."  In  The  Gentleman' s  Gidde  of  1787  the  inns 
of  the  Mt.  Cenis  district  are  said  to  be  "abominable"  and,  in  1828, 
Johnson,  Traveller's  Guide,  p.  39,  remarks,  "  Slept  at  St.  Jean  de 
Maurienne,  a  miserable  inn." 

''  The  Arc.     See  ante,  note  3. 


Il6  A  JOURNEY   OVERLAND 

a  present  sent  him  in  the  Princes  name^  himselfe  not 
there  but  expected  the  next  day  from  Turin.  This  is 
a  Bishopps  Sea. 

The  20th.  August,  1620.  Wee  came  to  Gabella^,  and 
lay  att  the  signe  of  the  Rammed  My  Lord  and  Gentle- 
men past  forward  to  Mummelan\  Servants  and  stuffe 
remained  heere^ 

The  2ist.  August,  1620.  Att  our  arrivall  heere  (Sham- 
berly,   12  miles)®,  my  Lord  etts.  were   passed   forward   to 

^  i.e.  the  Prince  of  Piedmont,  Victor- Amadeus,  eldest  surviving  son 
of  Charles  Emanuel,  Duke  of  Savoy.     See  p.  1 10,  notes  4  and  6. 

^  Aiguebelle.  Mundy's  spelling  of  the  name  of  this  place  and  also 
of  Aiguebelette  is  peculiar.  Compare  Lansdowne  MS.  720,  fol.  532, 
"Aiguebelle.... Petite  ville  apres  laquelle  s'eslargit  une  petite  plaine 
entouree  de  montaignes  par  laquelle  on  va  k  Montmillan  tenant  le 
droict  cliemin."  Compare  also  Gainsford,  Glory  of  hngland,  p.  27, 
"The  towne  of  Aguabelle  is  scituated  at  the  foot  of  a  great  rocke, 
as  if  it  lay  asleepe  in  the  lap  of  security.  By  it  runnes  the  river  of 
Arck."     Symonds  calls  the  place  Egbelle  {vide  Appendix  G). 

^  Symonds  and  other  contemporary  travellers  do  not  mention  this 
inn.  When  Johnson  visited  the  place  in  1828,  Traveller's  Guide., 
p.  38,  he  "  endeavoured  to  get  shelter  for  the  night  but  the  inn  was  too 
wretched."  Pindar's  train  does  not  appear  to  have  stopped  at  La 
Chambre,  the  usual  halting  place  between  St  Jean  de  Maurienne  and 
Aiguebelle. 

^  Montmelian.  Compare  Za/w^fc^/^^  ^6".  720,  fol.  20,  "Montmillian. 
...Petite  ville  sur  le  pied  d'une  haulte  montaigne,  011  y  a  un  chasteau  sur 
le  sommet  d'un  roc."  Compare  also  Sloane  MS.  4217,  fol.  14,  "From 
Chambery  we  passed  by  the  strong  fort  of  Montemelian... commanding 
all  the  valley  front."  See  Gainsford's  description,  Glory  of  Etiglarid^ 
p.  96,  and  Symonds'  remarks  quoted  in  Appendix  G. 

^  In  the  Rawl.  copy  of  Mundy's  Travels,  here  follows  a  double- 
page  map  of  France  and  the  South  of  England,  by  Hondius,  undated, 
showing  Mundy's  various  routes  by  sea  and  land.  On  the  reverse  of 
the  second  page  of  the  map  are  the  following  remarks  in  the  author's 
own  handwriting  : — "Whereas  in  this  mappe  are  two  passages  through 
the  whole  kingdome  of  Fraunce  described  by  two  red  lines,  one  from 
Pont  debeauvoisin  on  the  borders  of  Savoy,  and  the  other  from  Diep 
unto  Bayon  :  the  first  is  punctually  deciphered  from  place  to  place  : 
But  the  other  wee  Rid  post  and  took  no  perticuler  notice  of  places. 
Only  I  remember  wee  past  through  Roan,  Paris,  Orleauns,  Burdeaux 
and  Bayon.  Therefore  I  drew  a  Red  line  at  all  adventure  from  either 
of  these  places  to  the  other.  But  I  Remember  that  one  night  wee 
went  downe  a  River  in  a  boate,  and  that  wee  saw  the  Citty  of  Poitiers 
on  our  Right  hand  standing  on  a  hill.  I  conceave  wee  came  downe 
the  River  Loire  from  Orleauns,  for  heere  the  River  maketh  an  angle." 

6  In  the  margin  the  author  has  "  Schamberly  =  Shambery,"  and,, 
in  his  Index,  "  Shamberree,  a  nett  Citty,  the  Cheifest  in  Savoy." 


FROM   CONSTANTINOPLE   TO   LONDON  11/ 

Gabelletta^  Wee  lodged  att  the  Golden  Aple  without 
the  Gate^  a  Compleat  howse  and  very  good  entertaine- 
ment,  this  Cittie  being  the  fairest  wee  saw  within  the 
Alpes  and  the  laste,  handsome  comely  buildings  tiled 
with  slates,  makeinge  a  beautifull  shew,  and  great  store 
of  good  ground  round  about.  All  the  Townes  wee  sawe 
among  the  Alpes  (this  and  St.  Johns^  excepted)  were  very 
poorely  built  and  as  poorely  inhabited,  beinge  all  Labourers 
of  that  little  ground  which  lyes  amonge  the  Rockey 
Mountaines,  there  lowe  howses  covered  with  greate  Slates'* 
of  stone,  the  poore  people  many  of  them  haveing  greate 
Wenns  under  their  Chinns,  ordinarily  as  bigg  as  two  fists, 
but  some  of  them  as  bigg  as  a  mans  headl  Schamberly 
differs  altogether,  haveing  faire,  great,  stronge  buildings, 
comely  people,  beinge  plentifull  of  all  things  and  very 
populous,  scituated  in  a  valley  with  a  pleasant  peece  of 
Countrey  round  about**.     There  being  yett  one  Mountaine 

^  Aiguebelette. 

^  I  have  found  no  other  reference  to  this  inn.  The  Gentlematfs 
Guide  of  1787,  which  characterises  all  the  inns  on  this  route  as 
"  abominable,"  says  that  Chambery  is  one  of  "  the  best  places  to 
repose  at." 

^  i.e.  St  Jean  de  Maurienne. 

*  The  B.M.  copy,  Harl.  MS.  2286,  has  "  Plates." 

°  Symonds  has  some  very  amusing  remarks  with  regard  to  the 
prevalence  of  goitre  and  the  cause  of  the  disease  {vide  Appendix  G). 
Compare  Lansdowne  MS.  720,  fol.  531,  "  Ceux  de  ce  pays  ont  la  plus 
grand  part  (comme  aussy  par  toute  la  Savoye)  une  louppe  soubs  la  gorge 
qui  n'est  moins  grosse  des  deux  poings  ensemble  k  cause  de  quoy 
ils  sont  appellez  les  Gouns  de  Savoye,  et  ceste  enfleure  la  goetre 
laquelle  ne  procedde  que  de  la  grande  froiddeur  des  eaux  qu'ilz 
boivent  qui  ne  viennent  que  de  nieges  fondues,  estimee  la  pire  de 
toutes  les  eaux  avec  celle  de  glace."  Compare  also  Coulon,  Les 
Rivieres  de  France.,  vol.  ii.  p.  123,  "  Chambery... est  embellie  de 
plusieurs  fontaines  d'eau  vive...cela  n'empesche  pas  que  plusieurs  des 
habitants  n'ayent  une  enfleure  de  gorge,  qu'on  nomme  Goitre,  qui  est 
une  incommodite  presque  commune  a  tous  les  .Savoyards,  causae  par 
la  froideur  des  eaux."  See  also  Coryat,  who  describes  the  swelling 
as  of  the  size  of  a  "foote-ball."     Coryafs  Crudities.,  vol.  i.  p.  223. 

''  Compare  Rawl.  MS.  D.  1685  {Sir  Thomas  Abdfs  Travels)., 
"July  1633,  Chambei'y,  capitale  ville  de  la  Savoye,  qui  est  au  Due 
d'icelle  en  tiltre,  mais  au  Roy  de  P'rance  en  effet,  le  Frere  naturel 
de  ce  Due  y  gouverne  pour  le  present."     For  other  descriptions  of 


Il8  A   JOURNEY   OVERLAND 

to  crosse  over,  att  one  end  whereof  is  a  Lake  stored 
with  fish\ 

TJie  2,2nd.  AugiLst,  1620.  Haveinge  passed  over  the 
Mountaine",  being  very  steepy  upp  and  downe,  wee  came 
to  Gabelletta  (6  miles),  lyeing  att  the  foote  thereof  on  the 
other  side,  and  there  wee  dined  att  the  Posthowse^  From 
thence  to  Pont  de  Beauvoisin,  where  my  Lord  tarried  for 
us.  In  the  midle  of  this  Towne  is  a  bridge  over  a  Httle 
River^  which  parteth  France  and  Savoy,  halfe  of  the  said 
bridge  belonging  to  the  one,  and  thother  halfe  to  thother 
with  the  Lihabitants  that  dwell  on  their  sides  ^ 

The  2yd.  August,  1620.  About  noone  wee  came  to 
Bargueen  (10  miles)**,  and  dined  att  the  Posthowse'';  from 
thence  to  Avertpiller  (4  miles)^,  and  lay  also  att  the 
Posthowse. 


Chambdry  see  Coryafs  Crudities,  vol.  i.  p.  217;  Dumont,  A  New 
Voyage  to  the  Levant,  p.  53  ;  A  Tour  in  France  and  Italy,  p.  23  ;  and 
Symonds'  description,  quoted  in  Appendix  G. 

'  i.e.  The  Lac  d'Aiguebelette.  Coryat  describes  it  as  "an  ex- 
ceeding great  standing  poole.''  Coryafs  Crudities,  vol.  i.  p.  215. 
Compare  Coulon,  Les  Rivieres  de  France,  vol.  ii.  p.  49,  "  II  y  a...quel- 
ques  lacs  qui  nourissent  force  poissons,  dont  les  plus  renommez  sont 
ceux  de  Nissy...et  d'Aiguebelette." 

^  Compare  Coryafs  Crudities,  vol.  i.  p.  215,  "  Aiguebelette,  which 
is  the  first  Alp";  and  Sloane  MS.  4217,  foL  14,  "A  very  high  hill 
called  le  Mont  Aiguebelette."  In  the  map  of  Savoy  by  Hondius 
(see  note  6  on  p.  109)  the  mountain  is  marked  as  the  "  Col  de 
I'Aiguebelette."  Symonds  calls  it  "  Le  Montagne  de  Gibelet"  {vide 
Appendix  G). 

^  Compare  Lansdowne  MS.  720,  fol.  18,  "Aiguebelette.,.. Petite 
ville  autrement  appellee  La  Guybelette."  This  spelling  probably 
accounts  for  the  author's  "Gabelletta."  There  is  still  an  inn  at 
Aiguebelette  called  La  Poste. 

*  The  Guier,  a  tributary  of  the  Rhone. 

^  See  Coryafs  Crudities,  vol.  i.  p.  215.  See  also  Symonds'  remarks, 
quoted  in  Appe7idix  G. 

^  Bourgoin.     The  author  has  "  Barguin  "  in  the  margin. 

''  La  Poste  was  still  the  chief  inn  at  Bourgoin  as  late  as  1828  when 
Johnson  dined  there.     See  Traveller's  Guide,  p.  33. 

*  La  Verpilliere.  In  Z^z/j-^'icww^iT/.S'.  720,  fol.  17,  this  place  is  called 
La  Volpiliere.     Coryat  has  Vorpillere,  Coryafs  Crudities,  vol.  i.  p.  214. 


FROM   CONSTANTINOPLE   TO   LONDON  Up 

The  2Afth.  August,  1620.  Wee  came  to  the  Cittie  of 
Lyons  (12  miles)\  great  and  populous,  through  which 
runneth  two  Rivers",  one  of  them  haveinge  twenty  and 
odd  floatinge  mills^,  h'ke  to  those  of  Belgrade  although 
they  are  much  inferior  in  Beautie  and  bignes.  This  place 
is  of  great  Trafifique,  aboundinge  with  Merchants  and 
Shoppkeepers^  Wee  lodged  at  the  three  flowre  de  Luces', 
a  very  faire  and  well  furnished  howse.  The  hyre  of 
our  horses  from  Turin  hither  cost  nine  Venetian  Che- 
keens®  each. 

The  2$th.  Ajigiist,  1620.  This  eveninge  all  the  Atten- 
dants departed  Lyons,  and  that  night  wee  came  to  Tarrara 
(18  miles)'^,  haveing  ridd  post  att  20  solz^  or  2s.  per  horse 
per  stage,  and  a  Stage  some  four,  some  five  English  miles  ; 
my  Lord  etts.  being  to  come  after. 


^  The  author  has  "Lions"  in  the  margin. 

2  "  Two  rivers,  viz.  Saone  and  Rhosne  or  Rhodanus  ;  the  last 
runneth  downe  by  Marseilles  both  meeting  in  one."  Author's 
marginal  note,  added  in  his  own  writing  and  not  found  in  the  B.M. 
copy,  Harl.  MS.  2286. 

^  Compare  Coryafs  Crudities,  vol.  i.  p.  206,  "  Over  this  River 
(Rhodanus)  also  there  is  a  very  faire  Bridge,  and  ten  pretie  water 
Milles  I  sawe  on  the  water  neere  to  the  Bridge,  seven  on  one  side, 
and  three  on  the  other."     For  the  mills  at  Belgrade,  see  p.  73. 

*  See  Symonds'  description  of  Lyons,  quoted  in  Appendix  G. 
Compare  also  Rawl.  MS.  D.  120,  fol.  32,  Travels  (in  1648),  "  Lyons.... 
This  city  which  surpasseth  most  townes  of  Europe... comprehends 
within  the  circuit  of  her  walls,  mountaines  and  plaines,  gardens, 
vineyards  &c....for  a  city  so  remote  from  the  sea  it  is  the  richest 
of  France." 

^  Coryat,  in  1608,  "lay  at  the  signe  of  the  three  Kings,  which  is 
the  biggest  Inne  in  the  whole  citie."  {Coryafs  Crudities,  vol.  i. 
p.  211.)  In  1675,  Englefield  {Rawl.  MS.  D.  197)  remarks,  "Our 
Lodging  att  Lions... was  the  white  Lionn  att  one  Mr  Lafrueurs  a 
coukes  shop."  I  have  found  no  other  mention  of  the  inn  where 
Mundy  lodged. 

^  See  note  2  on  p.  26.  Reckoning  the  sequin  at  nine  shillings,  the 
cost  of  travelling  from  Turin  to  Lyons  (no  miles  according  to  the 
author's  computation)  was  about  £^  per  horse. 

''  Tarare.  Symonds  {vide  Appendix  G)  says,  "Wee  lay  at  Terrara 
in  a  hole,  a  little  bourg  unwald." 

*  The  sol,  or  sou,  a  coin  worth  12  deniers  or  about  ifd.  English. 


I20  A  JOURNEY   OVERLAND 

The  26th.  August,  1620.  With  Posthorses  also,  wee  came 
to  Rovana\  a  Towne  on  the  River  of  Loire,  where  my 
Lord  and  gentlemen  overtooke  us. 

The  2'jth.  August,  1620.  There  were  two  boates  hired 
from  hence  to  Orleance-  att  Ten  French  Crownes^  per 
boate,  one  for  my  Lord  and  gentlemen  and  the  other 
for  the  Attendants,  in  which  wee  departed,  and  that 
Eveninge  wee  came  to  Marseenee  (10  miles)*,  haveing 
bene  aground  noe  lesse  then  twentie  tymes  this  day. 
The  River  of  Loire  att  present  very  shallowe  but  in 
winter  exceedinge  broad  and  deepe. 

The  28///.  Aug?(st,  1620.  In  our  way  hither  (St.  Albuins, 
20  miles)^  wee  were  a  ground  as  many  tymes  to  day  as 
wee  were  Yesterdaye. 

The  2gth.  Augiist,  1620.  This  (Deseesa,  20  miles)®  is 
a  stronge  walled  Towne  with  a  stone  bridge,  and  by  reason 
wee  came  late,  wee  lodged  without  the  walls. 

The  ydth.  August,  1620.  Wee  came  to  Novers  (12 
miles),    a    faire    and    stronge    Cittie   with    a    stone    bridge 


^  Roanne.  See  Symonds'  account  of  Roanne,  quoted  in  Appendix 
G.     He  mentions  the  two  chief  inns  of  the  place. 

2  Compare  Rawl.  MS.  D.  120,  fol.  32,  Ti'aveh  (in  1648),  "Roane, 
buih  on  the  river  Loire,  and  is  the  first  towne  where  the  river  beares 
boates."  Compare  also  Du  Verdier,  Le  Voyage  de  France,  p.  loi, 
"Roane. ..est  assis  sur  la  rive  gauche  de  Loire,  et  commence  la  de 
porter  bateau,  bien  que  ce  soit  trente  lieues  de  la  source.  On  s'y 
embarque  pour  Orleans."  See  also  Coulon,  Les  Rivieres  de  France, 
vol.  i.  p.  254. 

^  The  common  English  name,  in  the  seventeenth  century,  for  the 
French  ^cu,  worth  about  4s.  6d.  The  cost  of  boat  hire  from  Roanne 
to  Orleans  was  higher  when  Symonds  made  the  journey  in  1648 
{vide  Appendix  G). 

*  Marcigny.  "  Marsigni,  celebre  Monastere  des  religieuses  de 
Cluny."     Coulon,  Les  Rivieres  de  France,  vol.  i.  p.  254. 

^  i.e.  St  Aubin-sur-Loire. 

^  Decize.  Compare  Coulon,  Les  Rivie7'es  de  France,  vol.  i.  p.  259, 
"  Decise  est  une  ville  ainsi  nommee  pour  avoir  este  bastie  sur  le  fonds 
d'une  petite  Isle,  detach^e  de  terre  ferme  par  artifice,  pour  la  rendre 
plus  forte." 


FROM   CONSTANTINOPLE   TO   LONDON  121 

also^  Wee  stayed  not,  but  proceeded  to  another  stronge 
Towne  called  La  Charite  (12  miles)  with  a  stone  bridge", 
where  wee  went  on  shoare  that  night ;  and  this  day  I  gott 
an  Ague  because  I  tooke  a  little  too  much  paines  in 
roweing  for  my  pleasure. 

The  iit/i.  August,  1620.  A  myle  from  the  River  stands 
Sansare  (10  miles),  upon  a  little  hill,  A  Castle  of  Pro- 
testants, accounted  one  of  the  strongest  holds  they  have 
in  France^:  From  thence  to  Severall  Towns  as  they  stand 
in  the  Margent  (Cone,  4  miles^;  Neuce,  8  miles^;  Bone, 
2  miles®;    Ossun,  2  miles'^;    Brearee,  4  miles ^),  Lastly  to 


^  Nevers.  Compare  Lansdowne  MS.  720,  fol.  3,  "Nevers...en 
laquelle  y  a...pont  de  pierre."  Compare  also  Gainsford,  Glory  of 
England,  p.  1 1 7,  "  On  the  river  of  Loire  washing  clean  the  fields  with  his 
strange  overflowings  are  erected  Cosme,  Le  Charity,  the  Citie  of  Nevers 
with  her  long  bridge... and  many  other  towns."  Coulon,  in  his  Fidele 
Conducteur,  p.  123,  writes  of  Nevers,  "Son  pont  est  magnifique,  basty 
de  pierres  de  tallies,  et  soutenu  de  vingt  arcades,  d'une  riche  structure, 
avec  des  pont-levis  aux  deux  bouts,  et  des  tours  pour  battre  aux 
avenues."  See  Coryafs  Crudities,  vol.  i.  p.  198,  where  the  bridge  is 
described  as  of  wood,  and  Uu  Verdier,  Le  Voyage  de  France,  p.  103. 

^  "  La  Charite... ou  y  a  un  fort  beau  et  long  pont  de  pierre  de  taille." 
Lansdowne  MS.  720,  fol.  2.  Compare  Coulon,  Le  Fidele  Condncteur, 
p.  122,  "La  Charitd  merita  de  porter  ce  beau  nom  pour  les  grandes 
liberalitez,  qu'y  exercoient  autrefois  les  Moynes  de  Cluny  envers  les 
pauvres  et  les  Pelerins.  On  y  voit  un  beau  pont  de  pierre  sur  le 
Loire."     For  Symonds'  description  of  La  Charitd  see  Appendix  G. 

^  Sancerre.  Compare  Coulon,  Le  Fidele  Conducteur,  p.  273,  "  San- 
cerrc.cette  ville  estoit  assez  recommandable  dans  les  escrits  des 
Anciens  sous  le  nom  de  Sacrum  Cereris,  pource  qu'on  y  adoroit 
Ceres,  la  Deese  des  bleds  ;  ou  plustost  sous  celui  de  Sacrum  Caesaris, 
comme  qui  diroit  I'Oratoire  de  Cesar."  See  also  Du  Verdier,  Le 
Voyage  de  France,  p.  104.  Symonds  calls  the  place  Sainct  Loire 
and  says  it  was  known  as  "  Papaute  des  Huguenots"  {vide  Ap- 
pendix G). 

*  Cosne.  Symonds  has  "Coane"  and  "Cone  sur  Loyre"  {vide 
Appendix  G). 

^  i.e.  Neuvy-sur-Loire.  The  place  is  marked  as  Neuvy  in  a  map 
of  1701  (B.M.  1063.  2). 

^  i.e.  Bonny.  Symonds  has  "Bone"  and  "Bony"  {vide  Ap- 
pendix G). 

"^  The  modern  spelling  of  this  place  is  Ousson. 

^  i.e.  Briare.  In  Hondius'  map  of  France  (see  note  5  on  p.  116) 
this  place  is  marked  as  Briart.  See  Symonds'  remarks  on  Briare, 
quoted  in  Appendix  G. 


122  A   JOURNEY   OVERLAND 

Gean  (4  miles)\  a  stronge  Towne.  Here  wee  lodged  att 
a  Protestants  howse.  All  the  Townes  aforesaid,  excepting 
Sansare,  stand  close  to  the  Rivers  side. 

The  First  September^  1620.  From  Gean  wee  came  to 
Sulitt  (10  miles)-;  from  thence  to  San  Benitt  (4  miles)^; 
from  thence  to  Chasteau  Neufe  (6  miles)^,  where  was 
a  Castle,  from  thence  to  Gerseaue  (4  miles)^;  and  from 
thence  to  the  Cittie  of  Orleaunce  (10  miles).  Wee  came 
from  Rouana  hither  downe  the  river  of  Loire,  whereon 
wee  sawe  in  our  way  att  least  one  hundred  and  fifty 
floatinge  Mills'^,  and  were  aground  twenty  or  thirty  tymes 
every  day.  On  this  river  are  great  store  of  protestants, 
and  whole  Townes  of  them.  In  this  Cittie  is  a  very  faire 
stone  bridge  with  shopps  and  buildings  on  it ;  Alsoe  the 
Image  of  the  Maid  of  Orleaunce  kneeling  on  the  one  side 
of  the  Image  of  our  Lady,  and  the  Kinge  kneeling  on 
the    other    side,  all    artificially    cast   in   brasse''.      Of  this 

1  i.e.  Gien.  Coulon,  Les  Rivieres  de  France.,  gives  the  route  from 
Sancerre  as  follows  : — "  De  Sancerre  on  vogues  jusques  a  Cosne  sur 
les  frontiers  du   Nivernois...et  de   Cosne  a  Neuvy....De  Neuvy  on 

descend   a    Briare...de    Briare...on    se    rend   a    Bonny De    Bonny 

on  coule  k  Giem  ville  tres  ancienne  et  garnie  d'un  beau  pont  sur 
le  Loire.... Les  Protestants  s'en  saisirent  au  commencement  de  leur 
revoke,  mais  les  Catholiques  la  reprirent  bien  tost." 

2  Sully.  Lansdowne  MS.  720,  fol.  i,  has  "Sully,  petite  ville  assez 
forte."  Compare  Coulon,  Les  Rivieres  de  Fratice^  vol.  i.  p.  277,  "  Entre 
Giem  et  Jergeau  I'on  void  sur  la  main  gauche  la  Duche  de  Suilly  avec 
les  vestiges  d'un  ancien  pont." 

3  St  Benoit,  named  from  its  Abbey. 
*  Chateauneuf-sur-Loire. 

^  Jargeau.  In  Hondius'  map  of  France  (see  note  5  on  p.  116)  this 
place  is  marked  as  Gergeant. 

^  See  pp.  T})  and  1 19. 

''  Compare  Harl.  MS.  288,  fol.  284,  Directions  to  Travelters  {circ. 
1620),  "  Orleans.. -where  you  may  see. ..a  statue  of  brasse  of  the  Pucel 
de  Orleans."  Compare  also  Rawl.  MS.  D.  120,  fol.  2,  Travels  (in 
1648),  "  Orleuns.  This  City  in  the  account  of  many  is  reconned 
the  second  of  France  though  (in  my  Judgement)  it  may  content  it 
selfe  with  a  third  or  fourth  place  ;  its  seated  on  the  river  Loire,  the 
streets  are  the  brodest  of  any  that  I  have  scene  in  France,  the  buildings 
but  ordinary."  For  full  descriptions  of  the  statues  on  the  bridge  at 
Orleans  see  Du  Verdier,  Le  Voyage  de  France.,  p.  83,  and  Coulon,  Le 
Fidele  Condiicteur.,  p.  126. 


FROM   CONSTANTINOPLE   TO   LONDON  1 23 

Mayde  the  French  report  miraculous  exploits  done  by 
her  against  the  English  att,  and  after  there  beseidging 
of  the  Cittie.  Our  comeinge  late  and  departinge  early 
occaisoned  brevitie  in  relateinge^  other  perticulers  worth 
notice  in  this  famous  place. 

Heere  were  Coaches  hyred  for  Paris  att  4  livers  4  solz^ 
per  man,  and  i  solz  per  pound  weight  lumberment.  The 
Boatemen  that  come  downe  from  Rouana,  as  others  that 
come  downe  the  River,  att  their  arrival!  heere  sell  their 
boates,  because  they  are  not  worth  the  labour  to  be  carried 
backe  against  the  streame,  being  but  slightlie  made.  All 
the  Countrey  downe  the  River  very  pleasant  and  full 
of  Citties,  Townes,  villages  and  buildings,  meadowes, 
gardens,  etts. 

The  2d.  September,  1620.  Wee  came  to  Artenee  (12 
miles)^,  and  from  thence  to  Tore  (8  miles)*,  where  wee 
lay  att  the  three  flowre  de  Luces ^  All  the  way  hither 
on  a  Cawsye,  and  the  Countrie  on  both  sides  soe  pleasant, 
plaine  and  Levell  as  I  never  sawe  the  like,  all  tillage 
ground*'.  Halfe  a  mile  from  Orleaunce  were  two  men 
executed,  one  hanged  on  a  Tree,  and  the  other  layd  on 
a  wheele. 

The  "i^d.  September,  1620.  In  the  morninge  wee  departed 
and  came  to  Angere  (8  miles)'',  and  from  thence  to  Estant 


1  In  the  margin  Mundy  has  written,  "  Omission  in  observing." 
This  note  is  not  in  the  B.M.  copy,  Hart.  MS.  2286. 

^  See  note  4  on  p.  98,  and  note  4  on  p.  100. 

^  Artenay.  Pindar  and  his  train  left  the  Loire  at  Orleans  and 
travelled  direct  to  Paris  by  the  route  now  followed  by  the  railway. 

*  Toury. 

^  I  have  found  no  other  mention  of  this  inn. 

^  Compare  Du  Verdier,  Le  Voyage  de  France,  p.  'j'j  f.,  "  Le  chemin 
de  Paris  a  Orleans  est  pav^  la  plus  grand  part,  et  sur  iceluy  se  voyent 
plusieurs  villes  et  Rourgs  bien  agreables,  comme  Longjumeau... 
Chastres...Estampes...on  void  apr^s  plusieurs  lieux  moindres,  et 
entr'autres  Angerville,  Thoury  et  Artenay,  le  chemin  qu'on  fait  d'icy 
k  Orleans  est  fort  agreable  en  son  vignoble  et  comme  plants  de 
quantity  d'arbres."  "^  Angerville. 


124  A  JOURNEY   OVERLAND 

(i2  miles)\  where  wee  dined,  and  then  to  Chatres,  where 
wee  lay  att  the  three  Blacke  mooresl  Halfe  the  way  as 
plaine  as  yesterdayes,  but  the  other  halfe  a  little  Hillie, 
though  pleasant,  fruitefull,  and  full  of  Townes''. 

The  d^tJi.  September,  1620.  Wee  came  to  Longmewe 
(6  miles)^,  and  then  to  Belarena  (4  miles)^,  and  from 
thence  to  the  Cittie  of  Paris  (4  miles).  Halfe  a  mile 
before  wee  came  neere,  were  four  men  on  wheeles",  two 
whereof  were  gentlemen  that  had  killed  a  Couzin  of 
Mounseir  le  Grande".  Hereabouts  I  had  like  to  have 
bene  served  a  prettie  trick  with  a  Copper  Chaine.  From 
Chatres  hither  all  the  way  wonderfully  peopled  and  In- 
habited, whereof  most  walled  Townes.  I  my  selfe  from 
a  little  riseinge  did  tell  neere  100  Townes  small  and 
greate,  all  in  sight  att  one  tyme.  Wee  lodged  att  the 
Iron  Crosse  in   St.  Martins  streete*^. 

The  ^th.  September,  1620.  Mr  Davis^  Mr  Wilson^"  and 
my  selfe  went  to  see  the  Cittie  ;  and  first  wee  sawe  one 
of  the  Bridges  over  which  we  passed,  not  knoweinge  then 
but  it  was  a  streete,  having  shopps  and  dwellings  on  either 
side  from   end  to   end,  lyeing  levill  with   the   rest  of  the 


^  Etampes. 

^  The  modern  Arpajon.  Chatres,  on  the  river  Orge,  eight  leagues 
from  Paris,  was,  a  hundred  years  after  Mundy's  visit,  adjudged  to  be 
comprised  within  the  Marquisate  of  Arpajon  and  thenceforth  became 
generally  known  under  the  latter  designation.  It,  however,  appears 
as  Chatres  as  late  as  1770.  See  the  map  prefixed  to  The  Gentleinan^ s 
Guide  in  his  Tour  through  France. 

^  See  ante.,  p.  123,  note  6.  *  Longjumeau. 

^  Bourg-la-Reine.  Coryat  calls  the  place  Chappel  de  la  Royne, 
Coryafs  Crudities,  vol.  i.  p.  195. 

^  See  Coryafs  Crudities,  vol.  i.  p.  196. 

^  Gaston-Jean-Baptiste  de  France,  Duke  of  Orleans  (1608 — 1660), 
brother  of  Louis  XIIL,  known  by  the  title  of  Monsieur. 

*  "  Paris. ..vous  entrerez  dans  cette  ville...pour  y  prendre  tel  logis 
que  vous  aviserez...en  la  rue  Saint  Martin,  ou  autre  qui  ne  manquera 
non  plus  que  celle-la  de  vous  presenter  logis  commode."  Du  Verdier, 
Le  Voyage  de  France,  p.  ']■}>■ 

^  See  pp.  41  and  46.  10  gee  pp.  41,  44,  48  and  76. 


FROM   CONSTANTINOPLE   TO   LONDON  12$ 

Cittie^ :  likewise  the  new  bridge'"',  beinge  very  stronge 
large  and  faire,  on  the  which  is  an  Ingenious  howse  for 
conveyance  of  water,  curiously  built  and  beautified  with 
Turretts,  fine  devices,  etts.,  a  Clock  and  dyall ;  also  the 
Statue  of  a  maide  cast  in  brasse  with  a  buckett  in  her 
hand,  wherewith  shee  seemeth  to  powre  out  the  water, 
which  indeed  runneth  with  a  very  full  streame'^  out  of 
the  said  Buckett  and  by  Pipes  is  conveyed  to  the  Loure* 
or  Kings  howse.  Att  one  end  of  the  said  bridge  is  the 
Statue  of  king  Henry  4th.  mounted  on  horseback  of 
exceedinge  greatnes,  and  workemanshipp  of  brasse  also, 
sent  him  by  the  Duke  of  Florence^ 


^  This  bridge  was  either  the  Pont  Notre-Dame  or  the  Pont  Saint 
Michel.  Compare  Du  Verdier,  Le  Voyage  de  Fraftce,  p.  228,  "  Le  Pont 
Nostre-Dame,  et  celuy  de  saint  Michel  ont  este  bastis  de  pierre,  le 
premier  depuis  I'an  1507,  sous  le  Roy  Louis  XII.  Avec  six  arches 
et  68  maisons  de  mesme  hauteur  et  largeur  aux  deux  costez  :  Aux 
quatre  coins  sont  des  tourelles,  et  au  milieu  des  Images  de  Nostre- 
Dame  et  de  saint  Denys,  avec  les  annes  de  Paris  au  dessous,  il  a  este 
tres-bien  pave  de  nouveau.  Le  Pont  Saint  Michel  ayant  este  basty 
sous  Charles  VI.  s'abbatit  I'an  1546,  et  fut  depuis  refait  avec  des 
maisons  basties  aux  deux  costez  de  hauteur  ^gale."  See  also  Coryafs 
Crudities^  vol.  i.  p.  171,  Heylyn,  A  Full  Relation  of  Two  Journeys, 
p.  90,  and  Coulon,  Le  Fidel e  Conducteur,  p.  28. 

^  The  Pont  Neuf  was  not  quite  finished  when  Coryat  visited  Paris 
in  1608.     See  Coryafs  Crudities,  vol.  i.  p.  171. 

^  In  the  British  Museum  copy,  Harl.  MS.  2286,  the  words  "out  of 
the  said  Buckett  and  by  Pipes  is  conveyed"  are  omitted. 

*  The  Louvre. 

5  Compare  Rawl.MS.  D.  197,  Trai'els  (in  1648),  "The  river  Senne 
crosses  the  new  brige  of  Paris  of  a  greate  bredthe  and  Lengthe,  on 
both  sides  are  Large  high  walks  paved  with  frie  stone  for  people  tow 
walke  ovre.  Their  is  the  pictur  of  Hennery  the  4  of  France  on 
horsback  upon  a  greatt  breson  horse  with  4  sclaves  chained  tow  his 
horse  all  of  brass.  The  horse  stands  upon  a  high  mount  of  white 
and  black  marble.  Round  itt  are  Iron  bars  soe  that  noe  man  can 
tutch  itt."  Compai^e  also  Sloane  MS.  2142,  Jour7ial  of  a  Voyage  (in 
1658),  fol.  2  f. : — "The  Pont  Neufe  which  is  between  the  Louvre  and 
the  Convent  of  Augustins  was  begun  to  be  built  under  Henry  the 
third,  1578.  It  contains  twelve  Arches.  At  the  12th.  Arch  of  that 
Bridge  on  the  side  of  the  Louvre  is  erected  a  Pomp  which  mounts 
the  water  from  the  River  and  represents  the  Samaratine  pouring  out 
water  to  Christ.  Upon  it  is  a  Clocke  which  markes  the  houres  in 
the  forenoone  in  ascending,  and  after  dinner  in  descending.  In  the 
middle  of  the  Arch  is  a  statue  of  Brasse  representing  Henry  the 


126  A  JOURNEY   OVERLAND 

From  thence  to  Rue  Toroone\  where  resideth  the 
EngHsh  Ambassador^,  And  a  stately  Pallace  now  building 
for  the  Queene  mother^ 

From  thence  to  the  Loured  where  first  wee  sawe  a  very 
rich  hall,  the  walls  of  Marble  and  Jasper,  the  floore 
Marble,  white  and  black,  adorned  with  Jasper  pillars, 
the  roofife  most  richly  guilt  and  excellently  painted  with 
the  twelve  signes-',  seven  Plannetts  and  four  Seasons  of 
the  yeare.  Att  the  one  end  stood  a  marble  Statue  of 
Diana,  the  same  that  was  att  Ephesus  (as  they  say),  with 
the  one  hand  on  the  Homes  of  a  deere  (standinge  Close 


great  on  horse  backe.  On  the  four  sides  of  the  marble  Pillar  on 
which  the  statue  is  placed,  are  graven  the  Principal  victoryes  of 
the  King." 

"The  yeare  i6i4....The  Statue  of  Brasse  of  Henry  the  Great, 
was  by  the  great  Duke  of  Tuscany  sent  to  Paris,  and  placed  with 
the  Horse  of  Brasse,  upon  the  midst  of  the  New  Bridge."  An  Epi- 
tome of  All  the  Lives  of  the  Kings  of  France,  p.  338. 

For  other  seventeenth  century  descriptions  of  the  Pont  Neuf  see 
Coulon,  Le  Fidele  Conductetir,  p.  27  ;  Du  Verdier,  Le  Voyage  de 
France,  p.  236;  Heylyn,  A  Full  Relation  of  Two  Journeys,  p.  90;  and 
A  Tour  iti  France  and  Italy  (1675),  P-  6. 

1  i.e.  the  Rue  de  Tournon  in  the  Faubourg  St  Germain.  The 
street  still  bears  the  same  name. 

2  The  Enghsh  Ambassador  in  Paris  at  the  time  of  Mundy's  visit 
was  Edward  Herbert,  first  Lord  Herbert  of  Cherbury  (1583  — 1648), 
who  had  been  appointed  in  1619.  He  furnished  a  house  at  great 
expense  in  the  Faubourg  St  Germain.  For  a  full  account  of  his 
life  and  diplomatic  career  see  the  Diet,  of  Nat.  Biography. 

3  The  Luxembourg  or  Palais  d'Orleans,  built  by  Jacques  Delrosse 
for  Marie  de  Medicis.  Compare  Abdy's  description  of  the  palace  in 
1633,  Rawl.  MS.  D.  1285,  "Wee. ..came  to  Paris,  where  we  saw  the 
Queenes  Mothers  house,  a  worke  not  yet  finished,  but  yet  of  excellent 
raritie,  there  being  one  walke  before  the  front  of  the  house  pavd  with 
blacke  and  white  marble,  the  pillars  encompassing  it  being  also  of 
the  same,  a  gallerie  of  competent  height  hung  with  pictures  all  re- 
presenting the  story  of  the  life  of  the  Queene  Mother  even  from  her 
infancie  to  this  present.  There  we  saw  roomes  richly  Gilded  even 
beyond  admiration."  Compare  also  Du  Verdier,  Lc  Voyage  de  Fra72ce, 
p.  75,  "  L'Hostel  de  Luxembourg,  basty  par  la  Reine,  Ayeule  de  Roy, 
Marie  de  Medecis,  qui  est  sans  difificulte  le  plus  beau  logis  qui  soit 
dans  Paris." 

See  also  Coulon,  Le  Fidele  Conductenr,  p.  2)0. 

*  "  Loure,  the  kings  howse  in  Paris."     Author's  Index. 
■5  i.e.  of  the  Zodiac. 


FROM   CONSTANTINOPLE   TO   LONDON  1 2/ 

by  her),  and  the  other  on  her  quiver^  There  were  divers 
other  Statues  of  Gods  and  Godesses  of  great  Antiquitie, 
as  appeared  by  their  Duskie  coulour  of  Marble^,  also,  in 
the  midle,  there  hunge  downe  from  the  roofife  a  Spheire 
which  (as  they  say)  would  shew  the  moveings  of  the 
Heavens,  Ecclipses,  etts.  motions  of  the  Sunn,  Moone  and 
Starrs  ;  but  then  it  was  out  of  frame. 

From  thence  to  an  other  large  Hall,  where  were  pictured 
divers  Kings  and  Queenes  of  France,  The  Kings  with  their 
Sonnes  on  th'  one  side,  and  the  Queenes  with  their  daughters 
on  the  others  Att  the  upper  end  stood  King  Henry  4th. 
with  his  Queene  Marie  de  Medicis,  on  whose  gowne  the 
Painter  had  soe  farr  strained  his  Art  that  it  almost  de- 
ceaved  the  sight,  soe  exquisitly  shadowed  that  it  really 
appeared  to  bee  blew  velvett.  Her  picture  by  report  cost 
6000  Crownes  the  makeinge*. 

From  thence  to  the  longe  Gallery,  conteyning  from 
one  end  to  an  other  about  600  ordinary  stepps  of  a  man, 
the  one  side  full  of  windowes,  lookeing  downe  into  the 
River  and  the  Kings  Gardens^,  full  of  curious  knotts  and 
rare  Inventions,  the  other  side  of  the  said  Gallery  was 
plaine,  but  intended  to  bee  adorned  with  excellent  Statues 


1  "  Diane  a  la  biche,"  among  the  "Ancient  Sculptures,"  in  the  Salle 
du  Tibre.  Compare  Coulon,  Le  Fidele  Conducteur,  p.  49,  "  Le 
Louvre.... On  y  void  une  sale  des  Antiques  remplie  de  pieces  curieuses, 
comme  est  une  Diane  d'Ephese.' 

2  The  author  is  alluding  to  the  "Ancient  Sculptures"  in  the  Musee 
des  marbres  antiques.     See  Coryafs  Crudities,  vol.  i.  p.  173. 

^  See  Coryafs  Crudities,  vol.  i.  p.  174,  and  Symonds'  description 
of  the  Louvre,  quoted  in  Appendix  G.  See  also  Coulon,  Le  Fidele 
Conducteur,  pp.  25  and  49. 

*  This  full  length  portrait  of  Marie  de  Medicis,  which  is  still  in  the 
Louvre,  was  painted  by  Pourbus  (1540 — 1622). 

^  Compare  Sloa7ie  MS.  2142,  fol.  3  (1658),  "There  is  a  very  fine 
garden  belonging  to  it  [the  Louvre],  at  one  side  whereof  is  a  high 
Alley  al  paved  with  stone,  and  set  al  along  with  Orange  trees.  There 
is  also  a  very  faire  gallery  on  another  part  of  the  house  furnished 
with  the  Pictures  of  many  of  the  Kings  and  Queenes  of  France.  Out 
of  this  gallery  there  is  another,  which  goes  al  along  the  River  and 
is  soe  long  that  the  end  of  it  can  be  very  hardly  discovered."  See 
also  Coulon,  Le  Fidele  Conducteiir,  p.  39. 


128  A  JOURNEY   OVERLAND 

and  pictures,  but  not  yett  finished \  From  thence  to  other 
the  kings  roomes,  all  carved,  painted,  guilded,  and  hunge 
with  Cloth  of  Arras^.  From  thence  to  the  Queenes 
Cabbinett,  being  a  litle  square  roome  exceedinge  all  the 
rest  for  admirable  workemanshipp  in  paintinge  and  guild- 
inge,  there  beinge  the  Younge  Kinge  and  Queenes  picture, 
also  of  King  Henry  his  father  and  the  Queene  his  Mother, 
with  divers  other  curiosities^  (The  King,  the  Queene,  as 
also  the  English  Ambassador  then  att  Potiers)^ 


^  Compare  A  Tour  in  France  and  Italy  (1675),  p.  3,  "The  Louvre 
has  only  one  end,  and  one  side  of  it  finish'd ;  and  when  the  rest  shall 
be  added,  will  be  one  of  the  most  extraordinary  Pallaces  in  the 
World,  both  as  to  its  Greatness  and  Figure,  not  any  in  Italy  re- 
sembling it  in  either :  Behind  it  is  the  great  Garden  of  the  Tuilleries, 
which  is  near  half  as  long  as  St.  James's  Park:  Is  prettily  planted 
with  Firr-Trees,  Cypress,  etc.,  and  would  be  very  fine,  were  they 
grown  up,  and  that  it  had  Gravel- Walks.  Beyond  this,  is  the  Cour 
de  la  Reyne,  a  place  by  the  River-side,  set  with  Trees  about  a  Mile 
long,  like  the  great  Walk  in  St.  James's  Park :  wherein  the  Coaches 
take  the  Air  in  the  Evening,  and  with  some  jostling,  pass  and  turn, 
there  being  in  the  middle,  and  at  the  end,  round  places  for  that 
purpose."     See  also  Coryafs  Crudities^  vol.  i.  p.  175. 

^  Compare  Sloane  MS.  ^\i!i,i.,  fol.  3  (1658),  "The  Louvre  is  the 
Lodging  ordinarily  of  the  King  when  he  is  at  Paris.  The  building 
is  one  of  the  statelyest  of  France  and  the  Kings  Lodgings  as  thick 
as  any  mortal  man  can  be  ambitious  off.  In  the  Chamber  where 
he  lyes  is  a  place  where  his  bed  stands,  which  is  al  raild  in  with  great 
rayles  of  massy  silver."     See  also  A   I  our  in  France  and  Italy.,  p.  3. 

2  Compare  Raivl.  MS.  D.  197,  fol.  4  f ,  Travels  (in  1648),  "I  went 
in  the  morneing  tow  see  the  Louer  the  Kings  pallace  itt  is  a  vast 
Sumtius  Building  of  polliched  stone  the  bigest  and  finest  home  in 
Europe.  Wee  saw  the  Kings  the  Quines  the  Dauphins  and  the 
young  Duke  of  Orlianes  Quarters  all  which  are  for  the  most  part 
wennescoted  butt  excellently  carved  and  gilt  and  painted  by  the  best 
masters  of  France  most  of  Romantick  storis  and  fables.  The  seating 
of  the  roumes  are  the  like  butt  much  finer.... The  Roume  of  Audience 
is  very  Long,  most  excellently  well  gilt,  painted  and  foull  of  great 
rich  Chints,  the  hangings  are  of  cloth  of  Goulde  imbraded  with  silver, 
the  flower  of  the  Louer  is  all  of  wood  excellently  in  Laide."... 

Compare  also  Sloane  MS.  2142,  fol.  3*  "  The  Chamber  and  Cabinett 
of  the  Queenes  are  as  stately  and  rich  as  that  of  the  Kings  and 
replenished  with  very  fine  and  rare  Pictures."  For  further  accounts 
see  Coryafs  Crudities,  vol.  i.  p.  173  and  A  Tour  in  France  a?id  Italy 

(i675)>  P-  3- 

*  After  the  reconciliation  of  Louis  XIII.  with  his  mother,  Marie 
de  Medicis,  at  Brissac,  in  August,  1620,  the  king  went  to  Poitiers  to 
put  the  affairs  of  Guienne  in  order.  See  Abrege  Chronologique  de 
VHistoire  de  Fra7tce  sous  les  Regnes  de  Louis  XIII.  et  Louis  XIV., 
vol.  i.  p.  185. 


FROM   CONSTANTINOPLE   TO   LONDON  1 29 

Then  wee  past  over  the  drawe  bridge  where  the 
Marquesse  de  Ancres  was  slaine  by  the  Kings  Com- 
maundement^:  Soe  to  Rue  Pharaon,  where  the  last  King 
was  Killed  by  Ravilliacke^.  Hard  by  stands  Innocents 
church,  rounde  about  whose  Churchyard  were  great  Store- 
howses  full  of  Deadmens  bones,  manifest  to  sight  through 
the  Barrs,  also  many  of  them  made  into  a  wall  with 
morter ;  others  lay  scattered  heere  and  there  under  mens 
feete.  They  report  that  the  earth  of  this  Church  yard 
hath  this  quallitie  more  then  others,  that  in  few  dayes  it 
consumes  the  dead  bodyes  of  those  that  are  layed  therein, 
leaveinge  nothinge  but  the  very  bonesl 

Afterwards  to  the  Exchange,  of  which  little  can  bee 
said,  it  consistinge  only  of  a  fiew  shopps,  where  they  sell 
bands,  gloves,  girdles,  Garters  etts/     And  from  thence  to 


^  The  Marechal  d'Ancre  met  his  death  by  the  orders  of  Louis  XI IL 
on  the  24th  April,  161 7.  He  was  attacked  by  Vitri  and  his  followers 
in  the  middle  of  the  drawbridge  over  the  fosse  of  the  Louvre.  Coin- 
pare  Rawl.  MS.  D.  1285  Travels  (in  1633),  "We  were  showen  the 
place  where  Le  Marsheshall  d'Ancre  was  pistold  by  Monsieur  de 
Vitry  the  King  himselfe  being  at  the  window  and  looking  on."  For  an 
account  of  the  town  house  of  the  Marechal  d'Ancre,  see  Appendix  G. 

2  Henri  IV.  was  assassinated  by  Frangois  Ravaillac  on  the  14th 
May,  1610,  in  the  Rue  de  la  Ferronerie.  The  following  quaint 
account  of  the  murder  is  given  in  A71  Epitome  of  all  the  Lives  of 
the  Kings  of  France^  p.  339  f ,  "  This  great  King  [Henri  IV.]  was 
on  Friday  the  14.  of  May,  1610  about  foure  in  the  afternoon  most 
trayterously  murthered  in  his  Caroch  with  two  stabbs  with  a  knife 
neare  the  region  of  his  heart,  passing  in  the  Streete  of  the  Ferronery 
neare  the  Charnells  of  the  Innocents  Churchyard,  by  Francis  Ravaillac 
borne  in  Angolesme." 

Compare  Pococke,  Travels  (in  1733),  -Add.  MS.  22078,  fol.  y).,  "  We 
went  to  see  the  Street  Ferronerie  where  Harry  4  was  assassinated." 
The  Rue  de  la  Ferronerie  hes  between  the  Rue  des  Halles  and  the 
Rue  St.  Denis. 

^  Compare  Raiul.  MS.  D.  120,  fol.  2,  Travels  (in  1648),  "Paris... 
I  say  [saw]  the  churchyard  of  St.  Innocents  which  devoures  and 
digests  dead  bodyes  (all  but  the  bones)  in  24  howres."  See  also 
Symonds'  description,  quoted  in  Appendix  G. 

*  Compare  the  two  following  widely  different  opinions  about  the 
Exchange  at  Paris: — "As  for  their  exchange  where  they  sell  many 
fine  and  curious  things,  there  are  two  or  three  pretty  walks  in  it,  but 
neither  for  length,  nor  for  the  roofe  nor  the  exquisite  workmanship 

M.  Q 


130  A   JOURNEY   OVERLAND 

the  great  Church  of  our  Lady  with  two  great  Steeples, 
one  of  which  wee  ascended  \  from  whence  wee  saw  the 
prospect  of  the  whole  Cittie  to  our  great  wonder,  as  well 
for  the  greatnesse  as  beautie  thereof,  being  neere  to 
roundnes,  very  thick  and  close  built,  with  few  wast  places. 
Att  the  topp  of  this  Tower  is  a  Gallery  to  passe  to  thother, 
but  the  passage  stopt  upp.  In  this  were  fowre  great  Bells. 
AUmost  all  the  Townes  from  Orleaunce  hitherto,  both 
small  and  great,  were  walled,  some  but  slightly,  and  others 
more  stronglie. 

The  6th.  September,  1620.  Haveinge  hired  Coaches  from 
Paris  to  Callis,  at  40  Crownes-  per  Coach,  wee  departed, 
leveing  Signor  Dominico  behinde  with  a  feavour*,  and 
Vincentio^  to  attend  him  ;  and  passinge  through  sundery 
Townes  vizt.  St.  Deenes  (4  miles)^,  Pierra  feeta  (2  miles)", 


is  it  any  way  to  be  compared  with  ours  in  London."     Coryafs  Cru- 
dities, vol.  i.  p.  172. 

"The  exchange  which  is  a  greatt  Hall  paved  with  a  stone  like 
white  and  black  marble,  itt  is  nerely  braude  and  long,  the  chops  are 
roung  greate  heigh  pillars  so  that  itt  Loukes  with  inn  finer  then  our 
exchange,  their  are  close  by  Sum  Long  walkes  foull  of  boukecellers 
chops  and  other  sort  of  things."     Rawl.  MS.  D.  197,  fol.  5. 

1  Coulon,  Le  Fidele  Condiicteiir,  p.  36,  has  a  long  description  of 
Notre  Dame.  He  mentions  "les  deux  Grandes  Tours,  ou  Ton  monte 
par  389  degrez." 

Compare  Heylyn,  A  Full  Relation  of  two  Journeys,  p.  69,  "  Nostra 
Dame... hath.. .at  the  front  two  Towers  of  admirable  beauty;  they 
are  both  of  an  equal  height,  and  are  each  of  them  y]']  steps  in  the 
ascent.  From  hence  we  could  clearly  see  the  whole  circuite  of  Paris, 
and  each  severall  street  of  it."  See  also  Coryafs  Crudities,  vol.  i.  p.  172 
and  Symonds'  description,  quoted  in  Appe7idix  G. 

2  See  note  3  on  p.  120. 

^  The  Dragoman.     See  p.  42. 

*  A  Greek.     See  p.  43,  where  he  is  called  Vincento  Castello. 

5  St  Denis.  See  Coryafs  Crudities,  vol.  i.  p.  169  and  Symonds' 
remarks,  quoted  in  Appendix  G.  Compare  Heylyn's  droll  description 
of  the  place,  A  Full  Relation  of  two  fou7-neys,  p.  54,  "  St.  Denis  has 
a  wall  of  a  large  circuit,  and  very  much  unproportionable  to  the 
Town,  which  standeth  in  it,  for  all  the  world  like  a  Spaniards  little 
face  in  his  great  ruffe,  or  like  a  small  chop  of  Mutton  in  a  large  dish 
of  pottage  at  the  three  penny  Ordinary." 

"  Pierrefitte.  Du  Verdier,  Le  Voyage  de  France,  p.  321,  has 
"  Pierre  fricte  ou  ficte,  une  lieue  de  Saint  Dennys." 


FROM   CONSTANTINOPLE   TO   LONDON  131 

St.  Breesa  (2  miles)\  Moisea  (2  miles)^  Beaumont  (6 
miles),  a  faire  Towne  with  a  river ^  and  so  from  thence 
att  Eveninge  to  Pisew  (4  miles)*,  where  wee  lodged  att 
the  Crowne. 

The  jth.  September,  1620.  From  Pisew  wee  came  to 
Tilliare  (6  miles)^ ;  from  thence  to  the  Cittie  of  Beauvais 
(6  miles)^  and  dined  att  the  Christopher ;  from  whence 
wee  came  to  a  poorc  Towne  called  Lehero  (10  miles)'', 
where  wee  had  as  poore  entertainment. 

The  2>th.  September,  1620.  Wee  came  to  Pouy  (10 
miles)®,  and  dined  att  the  Dolphine,  and  from  thence  to 
Pondormy  (14  miles),  a  walled  Towne  ^,  and  lay  att  the 
Crowne. 

The  gth.  September,  1620.     Wee  came  to  the  Cittie  of 


^  St  Brice.  See  Coryafs  Cricdities,  vol.  i.  p.  168.  Du  Verdier,  Le 
Voyage  de  Fra7ice,  p.  321,  has  "  Saint  Prix." 

2  Moisselles.     Du  Verdier  has  "  Moixelles." 

^  See  Symonds'  account  of  Beaumont  in  Appendix  G.  The  town 
is  situated  on  the  Oise. 

*  Pisieux.  s  Tillart. 

"  See  Appendix  G  for  Symonds'  description  of  Beauvais.  Com- 
pare Rawl.  MS.  D.  120,  fol.  34,  "Passing  by  Bovy  Abervill  and  some 
other  townes  and  at  length  (but  not  without  much  danger)  arrived 
at  Cahs."  For  Mundy's  route  from  Paris  to  Beauvais,  compare 
Coulon,  Le  Fidele  Conducteiir,  p.  55,  "De  St.  Denys  vous  allez  par 
un  bon  chemin  et  passez  par  les  villages  de  Pierre  Ficte,  St.  Brixe, 
Moiselle,...puis  par  Beaumont  petite  ville,  par  I'Abbaye  de  Pisieux,... 
Tillart,... et  de  la  vous  arrivez  a  Beauvais,  distant  environ  de  dix-huict 
lieues  de  Paris.  Beauvais  est  une  ville  ancienne  de  figure  ronde, 
environnde  de  bons  fossez  presque  tous  remplis  d'eau,  et  ceinte  de 
murailles  de  pierre  de  taille  blanche." 

*■  Apparently  a  copyist's  error  for  Le  Hamel,  a  village  lying 
midway  between  Beauvais  and  Poix. 

^  Poix  de  Picardy.     See  Appendix  G. 

^  Originally  Pont  d'Armee,  now  Pont  Remy.  Compare  Heylyn, 
A  Full  Relation  of  two  Joicrneys,  p.  186,  "The  next  place  of  note 
that  the  water  conveied  us  to,  was  the  Town  and  Castle  of  Pont 
d'Arme :  a  place  now  scarce  visible  in  the  ruines,  and  belonging  to 
one  Mr.  Quercy.  It  took  name,  as  they  say,  from  a  bridge  here  built 
for  the  transportation  of  an  Army ;  but  this  I  cannot  justifie." 

Coulon,  Les  Rivieres  de  Fra?tce,  vol.  i.  p.  29,  speaks  of  Pont  de 
Remy,  a  bridge  over  the  Somme. 

See  also  Symonds'  remarks  on  Pont  d'Armee  in  Appendix  G. 

9—2 


132  A  JOURNEY   OVERLAND 

Abbeville  (4  miles)\  and  there  stayinge  only  to  breake 
fast  and  change  one  of  our  horses,  wee  sett  out  of  Towne, 
accompanied  with  one  Captaine  Thorneton,  an  English- 
man^, whoe  had  lived  there  thirty  two  yeres.  Wee  dined 
att  Bearne  (10  miles)^,  a  poore  Towne;  and  from  thence 
to  Montariell  (10  miles),  a  small  Cittie,  with  three  walls^ 

The  \oth.  September,  1620.  A  myle  before  wee  came 
to  Neuf  Chastain  (10  miles)^,  wee  had  sight  of  the  narrow 
Seas,  haveing  seene  noe  Sea  att  all  since'  our  departure 
from  Venice  :  soe  came  to  Bullien  (6  miles)*',  and  lodged 
att  the  Grayhound''  in  the  lower  Towne.  The  Upper 
Towne  standeth  on  a  hill,  most  strongely  walled^,  the 
Maine  Sea  two  or  three  miles  of,  from  whence  came* 
a  Creeke  to  the  Towne  for  small  vessells. 


1  Compare  Sloane  MS.  2142,  fol.  2  (1658),  "Abbeville... its  seated 
in  a  watry  Countrye,  having  a  River  running  quite  through  the 
Towne :  here  are  excellent  good  Pistols  made  heere,  which  bring 
much  profitt  to  those  that  make  them." 

For  further  descriptions  of  Abbeville,  see  Appendix  G  and  Coryafs 
Crudities,  vol.  i.  p.  160. 

^  I  have  found  no  other  mention  of  this  individual. 

^  Bernay.     See  Appendix  G. 

*  Montreuil-sur-mer.  The  B.M.  copy,  Harl.  MS.  2286,  has  Mon- 
tareil,  and  Symonds  (see  Appeiidix  G)  has  Montrill.  Compare  Coulon^ 
Le  Fidele  Conducteur,  p.  60,  "  Monstreuil,  comme  qui  diroit  Mont 
Royal... ville  forte  avec  une  Citadalle."  Compare  also  Sloatte  MS. 
2142,  fol.  2,  "  Monstruel...a  very  strong  Towne  with  a  Cittadel, 
Governor  and  Garrison." 

^  Neufchatel,  now  on  the  railway.  The  B.M.  copy,  Harl.  MS.  2286,, 
has  Neuf  Chasteau.     Du  Verdier  and  Coulon  have  Neufchastel. 

^  Boulogne.     "  Bullein,  a  towne  in  France."     Author's  Index. 

''  Symonds,  in  1648,  lodged  at  the  Golden  Horn  in  the  "low  town." 
See  Appendix  G. 

^  Compare  Stowe  MS.  916,  fol.  46,  Travels  (in  1675),  "  Bologne  is 
a  Citty  divided  into  two  parts,  the  higher  and  the  Lower... its  Cathedral 
dedicated  to  the  Blessed  Virgin  is  an  Edifice  not  very  Remarkable, 
it  beinge  but  plaine  and  noe  bigger  then  the  Church  of  St.  Mary 
Overeys  in  Southwarke."  For  other  contemporary  descriptions  of 
Boulogne,  see  Coryafs  Crudities.,  vol.  i.  p.  157  f.,  Heylyn,  A  Full  Re- 
lation of  two  Journeys.,  p.  195  f.,  Du  Verdier,  Le  Voyage  de  France, 
p.  251,  Coulon,  Le  Fidele  Conductetcr,  p.  60  and  Symonds'  description 
in  Appendix  G. 

0  The  B.M.  copy,  Harl.  MS.  2286,  has  "cometh." 


FROM   CONSTANTINOPLE   TO   LONDON  1 33 

The  nth.  September,  1620.  Unto  the  Towne  of  Mar- 
queesa  (8  miles) ^  wee  went  all  alonge  on  the  Sea  Coast, 
and  in  sight  of  England.  From  thence  wee  came  to  the 
stronge  Towne  of  Callias  (6  miles).  Two  miles  before 
our  arrivall,  from  a  litle  hill  wee  might  see  part  of  the 
Lowe  Countries,  as  Grevelinge^  etts.  Without  the  walls 
of  Callaies  are  neere  upon  1000  small  Cottages  standing 
in  Ranck,  though  each  Cottage  is  sepperate  from  th'  other, 
servinge  for  labourers,  Gardners  and  poore  people.  Att 
our  entrance  att  the  Gates®  our  Gunns  were  taken  from 
us  by  the  Guards,  but  one  hovver  after  they  were  brought 
us  to  the  Golden  head"*,  where  wee  lodged  att  an  English- 
mans.  Heere  is  but  one  Churchy  a  faire  Markett  place", 
where  is  a  Curious  Towne  built,  guilt,  and  sett  forth  with 
pillars  and  Inventions,  haveing  many  small  bells  which 
Chime  att  certaine  howres,  makeing  also  divisions  of  the 
quarters,  halfes  and  whole  howres.  Wee  had  warning  not 
to  approach  the  walls  or  Bulwarks  upon  paine  of  Im- 
prisonment and  further  punishment  ^ 

^  Marquise.  ^  Gravelines,  now  in  France. 

3  Compare  Rawl.  MS.  D.  120,  fol.  34,  "Calls. ..this  towne  is  one 
of  the  best  ports  the  french  have  on  the  ocean,  it  is  the  shortest 
passage  to  England  and  the  last  thing  which  the  English  lost  of  all 
France... they  [the  French]  have  much  fortified  since  and  made  to 
the  former  to  [sic)  other  walls  and  motes  to  the  towne."  See  also 
Coryafs  Crjidities,  vol.  i.  p.  156  and  Coulon,  Le  Fidele  Condt(cieur, 
p.  62. 

*  In  1733,  Pococke  names  the  Silver  Lyon  as  the  best  inn  in 
Calais.     Add.  MS.  22978,  fol.  4. 

^  Coryat,  however,  remarks,  "  There  are  two  churches  in  this  towne 
[Calais]."     Cojyafs  Crudities.,  vol.  i.  p.  153. 

Compare  also  Stowe  MS.  916,  fol.  45,  Travels  (in  1675),  "  Calais.... 
The  Great  Church  onely  Remaines  unaltered  of  all  the  fabricks 
erected  by  the  EngHsh." 

**  See  Coryafs  Crudities^  vol.  i.  p.  156. 

'■  "They  have  a  very  strict  order  in  this  towne  [Calais],  that  if 
any  stranger  of  what  nation  soever  he  be  shal  be  taken  walking  by 
himself,  either  towards  their  Fortresse,  which  they  call  the  Rice- 
banke  or  about  the  greene  of  the  towne,  he  shall  be  apprehended 
by  some  Souldiers,  and  carried  to  the  Deputy  Governor  and  com- 
mitted to  safe  custody  til  he  hath  paid  some  fee  for  his  ransome." 
Coryafs  Crudities.,  vol.  i.  p.  155. 


134  A  JOURNEY   OVERLAND 

The  \2th.  September,  1620.  There  was  a  Catche^  hired 
for  twelve  French  Crownes  to  carry  us  to  Dover ^,  but 
the  Wynde  overbloweing,  they  durst  not  adventure  over 
the  Barr,  soe  it  was  deferred  till  the  morninge.  The  place 
where  shipps  and  Barques  doe  lye  is  a  litle  Mould  ^  or 
Peere  built  of  Stone  and  drye  att  Lowe  water. 

The  iT)th.  September,  1620.  In  the  morninge  wee  de- 
parted from  Callaies,  Haveinge  a  faire  wynde,  and  in  three 
howres  and  a  halfe  wee  arrived  att  Dover  (20  miles)'*. 
Wee  cast  Anchor  neere  the  Towne,  from  whence  there 
came  a  boate  and  carried  us  all  on  shoare ;  but  the  Stuffe 
went  about  into  the  Haven,  which  is  as  narrow  as  that 
at  Callais ;  and  drye  att  lowe  water  alsoe,  heere  beinge 
a  bigg  place  which  is  filled  att  full  sea,  and  by  a  Sluce 
lett  out  att  Lowe  water,  when  it  runs  with  great  voilence, 
and  serveth  to  scowre  the  Channell  or  entrance  of  the 
Peered  Wee  lay  att  the  Grayhound^,  Mr.  Ralph  Pindar, 
my  lords  brother',  and  Mr.  Spike®  were  arrived  two  howres 

^  A  Catch  or  Ketch  is  defined  by  Murray  {Oxford  English  Did.) 
as  "  a  strongly-built  vessel  of  the  galiot  order  usually  two-masted  and 
of  from  100  to  250  tons  burden." 

^  See  Appendix  G  for  Symonds'  account  of  the  charges  between 
Calais  and  Dover.     For  "  French  Crownes"  see  note  3  on  p.  120. 
^  i.e.  mole. 

*  Compare  Rawl.  MS.  D.  120,  fol.  34,  the  writer  of  which  had 
a  much  shorter  passage  (in  1649),  "From  whence  [Calais]  after  two 
howres  being  at  sea  and  sufficiently  sea  sicke  I  landed  again  at  Dover 
in  England  after  being  abroade  sixteen  monyths  and  a  halfe." 

^  See  Symonds'  remarks  on  the  "peere"  at  Dover,  quoted  in 
Appendix  G. 

^  Symonds  also  patronised  this  inn.     See  Appendix  G. 

''  Ralph  Pindar  was  Sir  Paul  Pindar's  elder  brother  and  the  father 
of  Paul  Pindar,  Junr.  (see  p.  41).  He  appears  to  have  been  entrusted 
with  his  brother's  money  affairs  during  the  time  Sir  Paul  was  Am- 
bassador at  Constantinople.  In  State  Papers,  Foreign  Archives, 
vol.  147,  there  are  several  references  to  sums  of  money  received  by 
Ralph  Pindar  for  the  Ambassador  during  the  period,  1614 — 1620. 

*  The  Spikes  and  the  Pindars  were  connected  by  marriage.  Eliza- 
beth, daughter  of  Ralph  Pindar  was  the  wife  of  Thomas  Spike, 
a  London  merchant,  who  is  probably  the  "Mr.  Spike"  mentioned 
by  Mundy  and  a  brother  of  the  Laurence  Spike,  a  member  of  the 
Ambassador's  train  (see  p.  42). 


FROM   CONSTANTINOPLE   TO   LONDON  1 35 

before,  being  come  from  London  to  meete  his  Lord- 
shipp. 

TJie  i^th.  September,  1620.  Mr.  Lane^  hired  a  great 
Waggon  for  3/.  to  Gravesend,  whereon  the  Stuffe  was 
Laden,  and  with  it  seaven  Servants  departed  about  eleven 
a  Clock ;  and  that  Evening  wee  came  to  Canterburie 
(12  miles),  and  lay  att  the  Checker".  Heere  wee  went  to 
see  the  Cathedrall  Church,  being  goodly  to  behold  without 
side,  adorned  with  three  faire  steeples,  and  within  noe 
lesse  beautifull,  rich  and  curious,  haveinge  two  galleries 
on  high  full  of  small  pillars^,  multitude  of  windowes  of 
coloured  glasse,  especially  the  lower  great  ones,  noe  lesse 
admirable  and  rich  then  the  report  goes  of  them.  In  this 
Churche  are  the  Tombes  of  Henry  4th.  King  of  England  with 
his  Oueene,  Also  of  Edward  the  Black  Prince  in  armour  of 
brasse ;  over  him  hunge  Helmett,  coate  of  Maile,  Launce 
and  Sword ;  Also  the  Sepulchres  of  many  auntient 
Bishopps.  This  Cittie  is  walled  round.  It  hath  eighteen 
parish  Churches*,  faire  streets  and  Shopps  well  furnished. 
The  countrey  hetherto  full  of  prettie  Hills,  and  pleasant 
vallies,  well  peopled  and  manured. 

T/te  i^th.  September,  1620.  Wee  came  to  Sitting- 
bourne  (11  miles);  from  thence  to  Rochester  (11  miles); 
hard  by  is  Chattam  where  rides  the  Kings  Shipps.  From 
Rochester  (7  miles),  wee  came  to  Gravesend  and  there 
lodged  that  nights 

The  i6th.  September,   1620.     My   Lord   came  to  us  at 


^  See  p.  42. 

^  The  Chequer's  Inn,  mentioned  by  Chaucer  in  his  Canterbury 
Tales,  was  situated  in  Mercery  Lane.  Some  traces  of  the  build- 
ing still  remain,  and  the  vaulted  cellars  are  in  excellent  condition. 
A  portion  of  the  old  inn  is  now  known  as  Grafton  House. 

^  The  Triforium. 

*  i.e.  including  the  Cathedral.  At  the  end  of  the  i8th  century  the 
number  was  reduced  to  twelve  by  the  absorption  of  the  poorest 
parishes  with  others  more  prosperous. 

'•"  See  Appendix  G  for  Symonds'  Journey  over  the  same  ground 
between  London  and  Dover 


136      JOURNEY   FROM   CONSTANTINOPLE   TO   LONDON 

Gravesend,  haveinge  bene  deteyned  and  entertained  by 
the  Arch  Bishopp  of  Canterbury  \  Soe  hireing  Two 
boats,  called  light  Horsemen-,  att  20s.  each,  they  brought 
us  to  Blackwall  (20  miles),  where  were  Five  Coaches 
readye,  In  which  wee  came  to  Islington  (4  miles),  where 
wee  lay  att  my  lords  owne  Howse^ 

The  i^th.  September,  1620.  Haveinge  taken  my  leave 
of  his  Lordshipp,  and  humbly  thancking  him  for  divers 
favours  received  of  him,  I  came  to  London  (2  miles),  and 
lay  in  Minceinge  lane  att  the  howse  of  Mr.  Richard 
Wyche,  brother  to  my  late  deceased  Master^  and  soe 
made  an  end  of  this  longe  Journey,  haveinge  gon  by  Com- 
putation 1838  myles  and  traversed  divers  Kingdomesl 

From  London  to  Constantinople  by  land  by  my  Com- 
putation amounteth  unto  Miles         ....     1838. 

Now,  although  I  say  by  land  yett  it  is  to  bee  under- 
stood wee  passed  from  Spalatra'^  to  Venice  by  Sea,  but 
landed  every  night.  Likewise  wee  were  certaine  dayes  in 
the  River  of  Loyre  and  went  also  ashoare  every  night ''. 
Then  from  Callais  to  Dover,  which  cannot  bee  avoyded, 
no  more  then  the  crossinge  of  Rivers. 

And  for  any  thinge  I  could  gather.  The  distance  of 
places  in  Turkic  is  not  accompted  by  miles  or  leagues,  but 
by  whole  dayes  and  halfe  dayes  Journeys  etts.^ 


^  The  Archbishop  at  this  date  was  George  Abbot,  who  had  suc- 
ceeded Bancroft  in  161 1.  He  was  a  staunch  protestant  and  a  bitter 
opponent  of  Laud's  doctrine. 

2  An  old  name  for  the  hght  boat,  since  called  a  gig.  See  Smyth, 
Sailor's  Word  Book. 

^  In  1624,  Pindar  moved  to  the  mansion  he  had  built  for  himself 
in  Bishopsgate  Street  Without,  where  he  died,  in  1650. 

*  James  Wyche.     See  pp.  14  and  23,  and  Appendix  B. 

^  The  British  Museum  copy,  Harl.  MS.  2286,  ends  here,  as  far  as 
Relation  II.  is  concerned. 

^  Spalato.     See  p.  86.  ''  See  pp.  120 — 122. 

*  Compare  Hobhouse,  A  Jo7irney  througJi  Albaftia,  yd\.  i.  p.  39, 
"  The  distances  in  Turkey  are  very  difficult  to  be  ascertained,  as  they 
are  measured  by  the  time  taken  by  a  horse  with  baggage  in  going 
from  one  place  to  another." 


RELATION    III. 

Other   Voyages,  Jotirnies,  etts.  occiirringe^  since  my  arrival 

from  Constantinople  luitill  the  tynie  of  my 

entertainement  for  East  India,  vizt. 

March  the  20th.  1620^  I  went  downe  to  my  Freinds 
in  the  Countries,  and  the  end  of  that  Sommer-'  I  made 
a  voyage  to  Seville  in  Spaine,  with  Pilchards  (our  Countrey 
Comoditie)*"'  for  an  Accompt  of  Mr.  Richard  Wyche'',  my 
Uncle,  and  Father*. 

April  22tJi.  1622.  After  my  returne  from  Spaine, 
I  covenanted  with  the  said  Mr.  Richard  Wyche  to  serve 
him  five  yeares,  on  certaine  Conditions. 


^  See  p.  7,  where  the  title  of  this  Relation,  as  given  in  the  "First 
Table,"  is  practically  the  same  as  above.  The  B.M.  copy,  Harl.  MS. 
2286,  has  "Other  Passages  occurringe,"  etc.,  and,  in  the  "Table"  at 
the  beginning  of  the  MS.  the  B.M.  copy  has,  "Post  in  Spain  and 
other  passages,"  etc. 

■^  i.e.  1 620/ 1. 

^  i.e.  to  Penryn  in  Cornwall.  The  B.M.  copy,  Harl.  MS.  2286, 
adds,  "and  returned  to  London  again  the  14th.  April  1622." 

*  In  the  year  1621. 

^5  Mundy  had  already  spent  two  years  in  Seville  (see  p.  14). 
For  his  allusion  to  the  Giralda  in  that  city,  see  p.  97. 

^  Compare  Rawl.  MS.  C.  799,  fol.  106  b,  "Barcelona.... The 
Merchandize  that  is  staple,  and  the  quantity  that  will  sell  here  is 
Per  annum  1000  Butts  of  Pilchards  at  about  Royalls  50  for  every 
1000  Pilchards  paying  charges  Royalls   12  per  butt." 

''  Richard  Wyche  was  the  brother  of  James  Wyche,  Mundy's 
former  master.     See  pp.  14,  23  and  136,  and  Appendix  B. 

^  This  sentence  is  omitted  in  the  B.M.  copy,  Harl.  MS.  2286. 


138  VOYAGES,  JOUKNIES   ETTS. 

Aprill  i^tJi.  1625.  By  my  said  Master  and  others^ 
(undertakers  of  a  Contracte  with  the  Kinge  of  Spaines 
Comissioners  for  a  great  quantitie  of  Copper  to  be  dehvered 
in  Spaine  att  a  certaine  price  and  att  certaine  sett  Tymes),. 
I  was  sent  post  over  thither""'  with  one  Henry  Davis'*. 

Wee  departed  London  on  Satterday  night,  and  lay  att 
Gravesend.  Next  day  to  Dover.  On  Monday  wee  crossed 
over  to  Deepe^,  and  the  Sonday  following  wee  were  att 
Y'ron  in  the  kingdome  of  Spaine  and  Province  of  Guipiscoa 
or  Biscay^;  Soe  that  in  Seaven  dayes  wee  went  through 
all  Fraunce  from  Deepe  in  Picardy  or  Normandy"  to 
Bayon  in  Gascony ;  haveing  had  very  good  way,  good 
horses,  faire  weather,  and  short  stages  (of  about  four  or 
five  miles  att  the  most).  Soe  that  wee  ordinarily  ex- 
chaunged  eighteen,  nineteen,  twenty  horses  a  day,  some- 
tymes  twenty-one,  twenty-two,  a  very  painfull  imployment 
to  one  not  accustomed  for  the  first  two  or  three  dayes. 
In    my    opinion,    there    is    better    accomodation    for   post 


1  Among  the  "others"  was  probably  Job  Harby,  Richard  Wyche's 
influential  brother-in-law.     See  Appendix  B. 

2  The  B.M.  copy  omits  part  of  this  and  the  preceding  paragraph. 
In  the  Harl.  MS.  2286,  the  passage  runs,  "  I  covenanted  with 
Mr.  Richard  Wyche  to  serve  him  five  yeares.  Att  the  end  of  three,, 
vizt.  in  Aprill  1625,  1  was  sent  post  into  Spaine  with  one  Henry 
Davis." 

^  Henry  Davis  was  back  in  London  a  few  weeks  later,  for,  in 
State  Papers.,  Foreign  Archives,  vol.  148,  there  is  a  note  of  letters 
delivered  by  him  to  the  Levant  Company  on  the   nth  May,   1625. 

*  Compare  the  following  accounts  of  Dieppe  in  1648  and  1675: — 
"Deepe.. ..This  towne  is  seated  upon  the  mouth  of  the  river  Somme 
and  is  over  looked  by  two  mountains.  The  port  is  safe,  but  the 
entrance  somewhat  incommodious.  On  the  left  hand  of  the  haven 
(as  I  entered),  stands  a  strong  fort  which  commands  the  haven. 
The  towne  is  populous  and  the  streetes  very  spatious.  On  the  further 
end  of  the  towne  is  built  a  castle  which  commands  the  towne." 
Eaivl.  MS.  D.  120,  fol.  i.  "Thursdaye  the  5  of  August  wee  landed 
at  Dipe.  It  is  a  good  big  towne  situated  upon  the  British  ocean : 
there  is  one  hansum  strite  and  the  towne  is  verey  hansumly  paved 
with  good  brade  stones.  I  Laye  att  the  signe  of  Lacrosse  or  crosiur." 
Raw'l.  MS.  D.   197,  fol.  2. 

^  Irun  is  in  the  province  of  Guipuzcoa. 

^  The  author  is  less  exact  than  usual.     Dieppe  is  in  Normandy. 


FROM   ANNO    162O   TO   ANNO    1627  1 39 

rideinge  in  this  Kingdome  (and  more  frequently  used) 
then  in  any  other  place.  In  our  way  wee  came  allso  to 
Burdeaux  etts.^ 

From  Y'ron,  wee  came  to  St.  Sebastian,  a  Towne  in 
Biskay,  soe  to  Victoria,  a  Cittie  in  Castile^,  where  I  found 
Mr,  George  Wyche,  my  Masters  brother,  Prisoner  about 
the  Contracte  aforesaid ^  From  thence  I  came  to  Valle- 
deolid^  to  followe  a  suite  then  dependinge  in  the  Chauncery 
there',  concerninge  the  Copper  busines  aforementioned'*. 
This  place  is  accounted  one  of  the  delightsomest  seats  in 
the  Kingdome  of  Spaine,  lyeing  in  Old  Castile.  Hither 
retire  divers  Lords  and  Grandes  from  the  Tumults  of  the 


1  For  Mundy's  remarks  on  this  journey  across  France,  his  route 
as  traced  on  the  map,  and  his  reasons  for  not  detaiHng  his  halting- 
places,  see  note  5  on  p.   116. 

2  Lithgow,  who  travelled  in  Spain  in  1620,  says  {Painefull  Pere- 
grinations^ p.  440),  "Biscai  a  Mountaynous  and  invincible  Countrey, 
of  which  Victoria  is  the  chiefe  City." 

3  In  the  B.M.  copy,  Harl.  MS.  2286,  these  last  two  paragraphs 
run  as  follows: — "Satterdaie  night  what  tyme  wee  departed  London 
to  the  8th  day  after,  being  Sondaie,  wee  crossed  the  whole  kingdome 
of  France  from  Callais  to  Bayon,  I  sale  from  London  to  Deepe, 
and  soe  to  Bayon,  and  to  Yrone  the  first  Towne  in  Spaine,  being 
(  )  myles,  thence  to  Sansibastians  a  Sea  Towne  in  Biscay,  then 
to  Victoria  a  Cittie  in  Castile.  Here  I  found  Mr.  George  Wych 
prisoner  about  a  Contract  for  Copper." 

*  Here  the  author  has  the  following  marginal  note  : — "  Valledeolid. 
In  Anno  1605,  and  the  2nd.  of  King  James  [the  First  of  England], 
Phillip  the  3rd.  [of  Spain]  kept  his  Court  heere,  where  the  peace  was 
concluded  betweene  England  and  Spaine.  And  here  the  same  year 
was  Phillip  IIII.  borne."  With  regard  to  these  statements,  Mundy 
seems  to  be  in  error  as  to  the  keeping  of  the  Court  and  the  signing 
of  the  treaty  at  Valladolid  in  1605.  Philip  III.  appears  to  have 
remained  at  Madrid  during  the  whole  of  1605  and  it  was  there  that 
the  Earl  of  Nottingham,  Lord  High  Admiral,  witnessed  the  ratification 
of  the  treaty  between  England  and  Spain,  which  concluded  the  war 
begun  during  the  reign  of  Elizabeth.  Mundy  is  correct  as  to 
Philip  IV.,  whose  birth  took  place  at  Valladolid  on  the  8th  April,  1605. 

•'  The  great  Chancery  or  Court  of  Appeal  for  the  North  of  Spain 
was  fixed  at  Valladolid  by  Juan  II.  in  1442. 

"  See  p.  138.  The  Calendar  of  State  Papers  contains  no  reference 
to  this  "Contract"  nor  have  I  found  any  allusion  to  it  in  any  con- 
temporary MS. 


140  VOYAGES,  JOURNIES   ETTS. 

Court  to  refresh  and  recreate  themselves ^  Amongst  the 
rest,  the  once  Duke  of  Lerma,  now  Cardinall,  dyed  att 
my  beinge  there ^  and  was  buried  in  a  very  faire  Church 
built  by  himselfe^  To  this  place  are  all  the  suites  of  this 
Province  reduced,  where  Judges  doe  sitt  twice  in  the  weeke 
throughout  the  whole  yeare  to  decide  all  cawses,  as  well 
Civill  as  Criminal^.  Heere  is  a  very  faire  River^,  many 
pleasant  and  artificiall  fountaines,  Groves  of  Trees,  varieties 
and  store  of  the  best  fruites,  the  fairest  Place  or  Placa, 
that  I  have  }^ett  scene  in  Spaine'',  built  four  square  with 
uniformitie,   round    about    upon    pillars    of   Stone  (as   are 


1  Valladolid,  the  Roman  Pincia,  was  called  by  the  Moors,  Belad- 
Waled.  The  wealth  and  popularity  of  the  town  dated  from  the 
beginning  of  the  15th  century  when  it  became  the  residence  of 
Juan  II.  Charles  V.  added  much  to  its  beauty;  Philip  II.  was  born 
there  (21   May,   1527)  and  gave  it  the  title  of  city. 

2  The  reign  of  Philip  III.  coincided  with  the  rise  and  fall  of  this 
nobleman.  Francis  of  Roxas  and  of  Sandoval,  Marquis  of  Denia, 
chief  equerry  to  Philip  III.,  was,  immediately  after  the  accession 
of  that  monarch,  created  Duke  of  Lerma  and  entrusted  with  the 
whole  administration  of  the  affairs  of  state.  His  arrogance  and 
extravagance  procured  him  many  enemies,  and  his  unpopularity  was 
further  increased  by  the  destruction  of  a  fleet  sent  by  him  to  attack 
the  English  coasts  in  1599.  In  1604,  he  concluded  a  peace  with 
England  (see  ante,  note  4  on  p.  139),  and  in  1608  he  concluded  a 
truce  with  Holland.  These  two  acts  were  so  unpopular  that  his 
downfall  became  inevitable.  His  son,  Uzeda,  had  gradually  supplanted 
him  in  the  king's  favour,  and,  together  with  Aliaga,  Philip  III.'s 
confessor,  succeeded  in  procuring  his  disgrace.  At  the  age  of  seventy, 
he  was  created  cardinal  by  Pope  Paul  V.,  with  unusual  marks  of 
respect  and  distinction.  In  1618,  the  disgraced  Duke  of  Lerma  was 
ordered  to  withdraw  from  Madrid.  He  retired  to  his  paternal  estates, 
where  he  died,  as  stated  by  Mundy,  in  1625. 

^  This  statement  is  not  quite  correct.  The  Duke  of  Lerma 
restored  and  beautified  the  Dominican  Convent  of  San  Pablo,  which 
had  been  rebuilt,  in  1463,  by  Cardinal  Juan  Torquemada.  The  arms 
of  the  Cardinal  Duke  of  Lerma  are  still  to  be  seen  on  the  upper 
portion  of  San  Pablo,  but  the  statues  of  the  Duke  and  of  his  wife, 
which  formerly  ornamented  their  tomb  in  that  church  are  now  in 
the  Museum  at  Valladolid. 

*  See  ante,  note  5  on  p.  1 39. 

5  The  Pisuerga. 

^'  The  Plaza  Mayor,  the  chief  square  in  Valladolid,  was  rebuilt  on 
a  fixed  plan  by  Philip  II.  after  a  fire  in  1561.  See  Coulon,  Le  Fidele 
Condiicteiir  pou7-  le  V^oyage  vfEspagne,  p.  28. 


FROM   ANNO    1620   TO   ANNO    1627  14I 

many  of  the  Streets)^  in  which,  att  feastivall  tymes,  they 
baite  their  bulls  with  men,  run  their  horses,  etts.  publique 
sports  and  pastimes,  which  are  performed  heere  with  more 
varietye  and  better  invention  then  I  have  scene  els  where, 
especially  for  Bull  baiteinge,  shewes  and  daunces  on 
Corpus  Christi  day'^  etts.  And  heere  I  remained  about 
four  monethes,  and  then  returned  to  Sansebastians  to  take 
my  passage  in  the  Margett,  Mr.  Robert  Moulton^  for 
England. 

In  our  way  betweene  Sansebastians  and  Victoria  lyes 
el  Puerto  de  Sant  Adrian^,  an  exceedinge  high  Mountaine 
through  the  Topp  of  which  was  the  passage^  being  made 
partly  by  nature,  partly  by  Art,  about  half  a  flights  shotte 
through  the  mightie  rock  or  mountaine*^  arched  over  our 
heads,  from  which  there  falls  aboundance  of  water  received 
into  Troughes  made  for  the  purpose  that  it  might  not 
molest  passengers.  This  they  say  was  auntiently  the 
habitation  of  St.  Adrian,  whoe  lived  heere  as  an  Hermitt. 
By  a  certaine  passage  wee  were  conducted  upp  into  the 
said  rock,  where  wee  found  it  full  of  concavities,  holes 
and  Conveyances,  some  passable  and  some  not.  Att 
length,  they  brought  us  to  a  fountaine  naturall,  the  best 


^  Here  the  author  has  a  marginal  note,  "The  Ochavo,  being  two 
Streets  crossing  one  another  making  eight  angles  on  pillars  with 
shopps  underneath  with  a  space  to  passe  betweene."  To  this  is 
added  a  rough  sketch  of  the  form  of  the  Ochavo.  The  above  note 
is  in  Mundy's  writing  and  is  not  found  in  the  B.M.  copy,  Harl.  MS. 
2286.  The  small  Plaza  del  Ochavo  lies  to  the  east  of  the  Plaza  Mayor 
at  Valladolid. 

2  i.e.  on  the  Thursday  after  Trinity  Sunday. 

3  In  State  Papers,  Foreign  Archives.,  vol.  no,  there  are  several 
references  to  the  "Marget"  or  "Margarett"  when  she  was  chartered 
by  the  Levant  Company  in  1626  to  go  to  Aleppo,  but  I  have  found  no 
allusion  to  her  commander  in  the  previous  year. 

*  The  river  Oria  takes  its  rise  near  this  mountain. 

5  The  B.M.  copy,  Harl.  MS.  2286,  has,  "through  the  topp  of 
which  lay  our  waie." 

^  Here  the  author  has  a  marginal  note,  "The  admirable  and 
strange  Passage  of  el  Puerto  St.  Adrian." 


142  VOYAGES,  JOURNIES   ETTS. 

that  ever  I  saw  in  that  kinde,  or  I  thinck  can  be  scene, 
neere  to  roundnesse,  about  a  foote  deepe,  passing  Cleare, 
into  which  the  water  trickled  downe  from  the  sides  and 
upper  vaulted  parte,  being  of  hard  stone,  soe  small  and 
Curiously  wrought  by  Nature  that  it  is  wonderfull  to  see, 
Like  those  that  are  to  bee  scene  in  Great  mens  Gardens, 
where  by  Art  they  strive  to  imitate  Nature  by  placeing 
arteficiall  rocks,  pebbles,  shells  etts.,  of  w^hich  sort  this 
would  serve  for  a  patterne.  From  hence  the  water  runns 
away,  and  by  degrees  with  other  waters  falls  into  the 
troughes  aforesaid ^  This  wee  saw  by  the  light  of  Candells, 
carrieing  with  us  also  fire  brands  to  light  them  againe  if 
they  chaunced  to  goe  out I 

Also,  within  two  miles  of  Valledeolid  are  two  ponds 
of  Salt  water,  wherein  by  heat  of  the  Sunne  in  Sommer 
tyme  is  much  salt  made  very  good  and  yeildeth  great 
profitt  to  whom  it  apperteynes,  being  it  is  lOO  miles  from 
the  Sea^ 


^  Compare  the  following  description  of  the  route  from  San 
Sebastian  over  the  Mts.  of  S.  Adrian  and  of  the  grotto  of  that  saint 
in  Relation  die  Voyage  d'Espagne  (in  1679),  "En  sortant  de  Saint 
Sebastien,  nous  enti'ames  dans  un  chemin  fort  rude,  qui  aboutit  k 
des  Montagues  si  affreuses  et  si  escarpees  que  Ton  ne  peut  les  monter 
qu'en  grimpant ;  on  les  appelle  Sierra  de  Sant  Adrian.  EUes  ne 
montrent  que  des  Precipices  et  des  Rochers....Des  Pins  d'une  hauteur 
extraordinaire  couronnent  la  cime  de  ces  Montagnes....Vers  le  haut 
du  'Mont  Saint  Adrian,  on  trouve  un  Rocher  fort  eleve,  qui  semble 
avoir  et^  mis  au  milieu  du  chemin  pour  en  fermer  le  passage,  et 
separer  ainsi  la  Biscaye  de  la  vieille  Castille.  Un  long  et  penible 
travail  a  perce  cette  masse  de  pierre  en  fagon  de  voute :  on  marche 
quarante  ou  cinquante  pas  dessous  sans  recevoir  de  jour  que  par  les 
ouvertures  qui  sont  a  chaque  entree ;  elles  sont  fermees  par  de  grandes 
Portes.  On  trouve  sous  cette  Voute  une  Hotellerie  que  Ton  abandonne 
I'Hyver  a  cause  des  Neiges.  On  y  voit  aussi  une  petite  Chapelle  de 
Saint  Adrian,  et  plusieurs  Cavernes  ou  d'ordinaire  les  Voleurs  se 
retirent." 

2  The  B.M.  copy,  Harl.  MS.  2286,  has,  "to  light  our  said  Candles, 
for  often  tymes  the  dampe  would  put  them  out." 

2  Mundy  seems  to  have  verified  the  number  of  miles  when  he 
revised  his  MS.  in  1649/50.  The  B.M.  copy,  Harl.  MS.  2286,  has 
"it  is  about  (         )  myles." 


FROM   ANNO    162O   TO   ANNO    1 627  1 43 

Returninge  for  England  with  Mr.  Molton  aforesaid \ 
I  found  my  Master-  very  dangerously  sick  of  the  Dropsie, 
vvhoe  presently,  about  some  ocasions,  sent  mee  to  Coul- 
chester.  (In  our  way  wee  passed  through  Chensford, 
a  prettie  hansome  Towne-'.)  A  litle  after  my  comeing 
back  from  thence,  My  Master  left  this  life^  and  I  againe 
left  the  Cittie',  went  downe  to  my  freinds  in  Cornewell 
by  Land®. 

Haveinge  remained  a  while  att  Home,  I  made  a  voyage 
to  St.  Maloes  in  Brittaine",  a  place  of  very  great  Strength 
and  traffique,  there  being  the  most,  the  fairest  and  biggest 
Shipping,  that  I  thinck  are  in  any  other  port  of  Fraunce. 
The  Sea  is  reported  heere  att  high  springe  to  rise  from 
lowe  water  to  high  Sea,  about  thirteen  or  fourteen  fathum^, 
whereas  on  our  owne  Coast  att  the  same  tyme,  it  doth 
not  flowe  above  six  or  seven",  which  seemeth  very  strange, 
being  they  are  but  thirty-five  or  forty  leagues  distant. 
Also,  notwithstandinge  the  extraordinary  strength  of  the 
place,  being  built  on  a  Rock,  strongly  walled,  fortefied 
and  guarded  with  great  vigillancie,  there  are  twenty-four 
mungrell  Doggs^^  whoe   every  night  are  sent  out  of  the 

^  See  ante,  p.  141.  ^  i.e.  Richard  Wyche. 

3  The  B.M.  co^y,  Harl.  MS.  2286,  has  "passing  through  Chensford 
in  our  waie."  It  is  interesting  to  note  that,  as  late  as  the  close  of  the 
last  century,  the  older  inhabitants  of  Essex  still  spoke  of  their  county 
town  as  "Chensford." 

*  For  particulars  of  Richard  Wyche,  see  Appendix  B. 

'^  i.e.  of  London.  ^  Mundy's  native  town  was  Penryn. 

"^  The  B.M.  copy,  Harl.  MS.  2286,  has  "In  the  terme  of  one 
yeare  and  halfe  I  remayned  with  my  Father  I  made  a  Voyage  into 
Spaine  for  accompt  of  my  Uncle  and  Father,  And  beinge  returned 
I  went  to  St.  Maloes  in  Brittaine."  From  this  point  to  the  end  of 
the  paragraph,  the  two  copies  ai'e  identical. 

*  Here  there  is  a  marginal  note  in  the  B.M.  copy  only,  "From 
lowe  water  to  full  Sea,  about  eleven  or  twelve  fathome." 

9  St  Malo  is  noted  for  the  highest  tide  in  the  Channel,  but  Mundy 
is  a  little  beyond  the  mark  in  his  estimate  of  the  height  to  which  it 
rises,  though  he  is  correct  as  regards  the  ports  on  the  English  side. 

i**  Here  the  author  has  a  marginal  note,  "Strange  Spring  tides  and 
as  strange  a  Custome  by  useing  doggs  to  guard  the  Citty  by  night." 


144  VOYAGES,   JOURNIES   ETTS. 

Gates  with  their  keeper,  and  all  the  night  long  course  to 
and  froe  about  the  walls,  killinge  and  teareinge  any  liveinge 
Creature  they  encounter  withall,  be  it  man  or  beast,  have- 
ing  att  my  being  there  torne  one  man  to  peices,  and 
Cattle.  Theis  in  the  morninge  first  enter  in  att  the 
opening  of  the  gates  and  last  that  goe  forth  att  their 
Closeing  in  the  Eveninge^ 

From  thence  I  went  to  the  Island  of  Jersey,  some 
twelve  leagues  distant.  It  hath  thirteen  parishes^,  litle  waste 
ground  aboundance  of  Villags,  and  but  one  litle  Towne 
called  St.  •',  plenty  of  Cider.     Naturallie  the  In- 

habitants speake  French,  although  many  speake  English. 
It  lyeth  in  our  kings  dominions^,  although  but  five  leagues 
from  Normandie.  From  thence  I  returned  to  St.  Maloes, 
and  soe  home'. 

Lastly,  desirous  of  imployment,  as  also  to  see  forraigne 
Countries,  I  came  to  London  againe,  where  I  found 
entertainement  of  the  honourable  Company  of  English 
Merchants  trading  for  East  India'',  to  proceed  thither  in 
their  next  shipps.  Soe  went  downe  into  the  Countrie  to 
take  leave  of  my  freinds,  and  after  Christmas  1627,  I  came 


1  "On  dit  que  le  soir,  en  fermant  les  portes  de  la  Ville,  on  lache 
douze  gros  dogues,  pour  n'etre  pas  surpris  des  ennemis ;  ce  que  je 
remarque  contre  ceux  qui  disent  que  S.  Malo  est  garde  par  des  chiens." 
Le  Grand  Diet.  Historiquc  (17 17)  s.v.  Saint-Malo.  Compare  also 
Coulon,  Les  Rivieres  de  France.,  p.  225,  "  S.  Malo... La  ville  est 
importante  k  cause  de  son  assiette,  qui  la  fait  garder  comme  una 
Clef  de  France  :  on  dit  qu'elle  a  des  Dogues,  qui  font  la  ronde  toute 
la  nuict  autour  de  ses  murailles  avec  plus  de  seurete  que  des  Soldats." 

2  A  mistake  for  twelve.  See  Le  Gra?id  Diet.  Historique,  noted 
above,  also  other  later  descriptions  of  the  Island  of  Jersey. 

3  St  Helier. 

*  The  B.M.  copy,  Harl.  A/S.  2286,  adds,  "whoe  hath  his  Governor 
there." 

^  The  wording  of  this  paragraph  is  somewhat  different  in  the 
B.M.  copy,  but  the  sense  is  the  same. 

6  The  B.M.  copy,  Hart.  MS.  2286,  has,  "Lastly  I  returned  to 
London,  and  beinge  desirous  to  see  Countries  I  gott  entertaynement 
of  the  Honourable  Company,"  etc. 


FROM   ANNO    162O   TO   ANNO    1627 


HS 


againe  for  London  to  attend  my  honourable   Imployers 
will  and  pleasured 


Computation  of  Miles  and  distance  of  some  Places 
in  this  Relation. 


From  London  to  Famouth  is  ... 

From  Famouth  to  Sivell  and  backe  againe  is 

From  Famouth  to  London  againe  . 

From  London  to  Deepe^  .... 

From  Deepe  to  Bay  on  by  land 

From  Bayon  to  Valledeolid     .... 

From  Valledeolid  to  St.  Sebastians 

From  St.  Sebastians  to  London  by  Sea 

From  London  to  Coulchester  and  back 

From  London  to  Famouth      .... 

From  Famouth  to  St.  Haloes'* 

From   St.  Maloes  to  Jersey  and   back  againe  to 

St.  Maloes 

From  St.  Maloes  to  Famouth 

From    Famouth   up   to   London,  downe  into  the 

Countrey  and  upp  to  London  againe 
All  theis  severall  Traverses  you  may  finde  in  the 

former  Relation  and  amounteth  in  all  to  the 

some  of  Miles  ...... 


Miles 
220 

2380 

220 

180 

520 

210 

180 

780 

I  10 

220 

165 

70 
165 

660 


6080 


This  Third  Relation  is  also  recollected  by  memorie  as 
is  Relation  L 

^  Mundy  entered  the  service  of  the  East  India  Company  as  a 
Junior  Factor  at  the  salary  of  ^25  per  annum.  In  the  Minutes  of 
the  Company  {Court  Book,  vol.  x.  p.  290)  under  date  22nd  Feb.  1627/8, 
there  is  the  following  entry,  "The  sallary  of  Peter  Mundy  enterteyned 
as  an  Under  Factor  being  25li.  per  annum,  it  was  this  day  ratified  and 
confirmed  and  in  respect  of  his  necessitie  the  Court  was  then  also 
pleased  to  imprest  unto  him  5H.  of  his  said  wages  for  his  better 
accomodation  and  setting  out  to  sea." 

'^  The  Table  of  distances  in  the  B.M.  copy,  Hart.  MS.  2286, 
begins  here,  but  the  number  of  miles  traversed  is  omitted. 

3  The  Table  of  distances  in  the  B.M.  copy.  Hart.  MS.  2286, 
ends  here. 


M. 


APPENDIX   A\ 

EXTRACTS^    FROM    BLOUNT'S    VOYAGE    INTO    THE 

LEVANT,  WITH    MUNDY'S    NOTES    ON   VARIOUS 

PASSAGES. 

A  Voyage  into  the  Levant^.  A  Briefe  Relation  of  a  Journey^ 
lately  performed  by  Master  Henry  Blunt  Gentleman^,  from 
Etigland  by  the  way  of  Venice,  into  Dalniatia,  Sclavonia,  Bosnah, 
Hungary,  Macedonia,  Thessaly,  Thrace,  Rhodes  atid  Egypt,  unto 
Gran  Cairo  :  With  particular  observations  concerning  the  moderne 
conditioft  of  the  Turkes,  and  other  people  under  that  Empire. 

The  third  Edition^.  London,  Frifited  by  J.  L.  for  Andrew  Crooke, 
and  are  to  be  sold  at  the  signe  of  the  Beare  in  Pauls  Church- 
yard,  1638. 


1  In  the  Ra-wlinson  copy  of  Mundy's  MS.  on  the  reverse  of  the  double- 
page  map  of  Europe,  there  are  (as  stated  in  note  2  on  page  11)  several 
extracts  from  Blount's  Voyage  into  the  Levant,  signed  by  Mundy,  with  a  note, 
"  written,  Penrin  the  first  February,  1649/50."  These  extracts  are  given  by 
Mundy  as  an  Appendix  to  Relation  I.,  but,  in  reality,  the  remarks  on  Alexan- 
dretta  excepted,  they  refer  to  the  journey  from  Constantinople  to  Rovigno,  as 
described  in  Relation  II.,  pp.  41 — 89.  The  passages  selected  are  not  accurate 
quotations  from  Blount,  but  abstracts  made  by  Mundy,  who  adds  his  own 
comments  thereon.  For  the  sake  of  clearness,  Blount's  exact  words  are  re- 
produced here,  and  Mundy's  version  of  them,  together  with  his  own  remarks, 
are  added  as  foot-notes. 

^  The  extracts  are  taken  from  pages  5 — 28  of  the  3rd  edition  of  Blount's 
work.  The  book  comprises  126  small  octavo  pages.  The  first  part  con- 
tains an  account  of  the  author's  travels  and  the  second  a  disquisition  on  the 
Turkish  government. 

^  Blount  left  Venice  for  Constantinople  on  the  nth  May,  1634,  and 
made  the  journey  by  sea. 

*  Henry  Blount  was  born  in  1602,  was  knighted  by  Charles  I.  in  1640, 
and  died  in  1682.     See  the  account  of  him  in  the  Diet,  of  Nat.  Biography. 

^  There  were  eight  editions  of  the  work  between  1636  and  1671.  There 
is  also  a  reprint  in  Osborne's  Collection  of  Voyai;es,  1745,  and  in  Pinkerton's 
Collection,  1808,  besides  a  German  edition  in  1687,  and  two  Dutch  editions, 
1707  and  1727. 


EXTRACTS  FROM  BLOUNT'S  VOYAGE  INTO  THE  LEVANT  I47 

Rovinio^  a  Venetian  City  in  Istria :  it  stands  in  a  creeke  of 
the  Adriatique,  upon  a  hill  promontory  which  hath  two  thirds 
washed  by  the  Sea ;  the  South  East  side  joyned  to  the  Continent, 
the  soyle  rocky  and  baren,  as  all  that  side  along  the  Gulfe;  it 
is  an  hundred  miles  from  Venice,  and  therefore  being  so  farre 
within  the  Gulfe,  is  not  fortified  as  against  much  danger,  yet 
hath  it  a  pretty  wall  and  fortresse  with  a  small  Garrison  :  from 
thence  we  came  to  Zara^:  this  Citie  stands  in  Dalmatia,  and  of 
all  others  within  the  Gulf,  is,  by  reason  of  the  scituation,  most 
apt  to  command  the  whole  Adriatique,  and  therefore  has  formerly 
beene  attempted  by  the  Turke :  wherefore  the  Venetians  have 
fortified  it  extraordinarily,  and  now,  though  in  times  of  firme 
peace,  keepe  it  with  strong  companies  both  of  Horse  and 
Foote... after  a  dayes  view  of  this  place,  wee  Sayled  to  Spalatro, 
a  City  of  Sclavonia,  kept  by  the  Venetians  as  their  onely 
Emporium,  plyed  successively  with  two  Gallies,  which  cary  be- 
tweene  Venice  and  that  place  such  merchandize  as  are  trans- 
ported into  Turky,  or  from  thence  brought  in :  it  stands  in  a  most 
pleasant  valley  on  the  South  side  of  great  mountaines  :  in  the 
wall  toward  the  Sea  appeares  a  great  remainder  of  a  gallery  in 
Dioclesian  his  Palace  :  Southward  of  the  towne  is  the  Sea,  which 
makes  an  open  Port  capable  of  ten  or  twelve  Gallyes ;  without 
is  an  unsecure  Bay  for  great  Ships,  at  the  entrance  above  halfe 
a  mile  broad,  yet  not  so  renowned  for  the  skill  of  Octavius,  who 
chained  it  up  when  hee  besieged  Salonoe*,  as  for  the  fierce 
resolution  of  Vulteius,  and  his  company  there  taken :  in  this 
Towne  the  Venetians  allowe  the  great  Turke  to  take  custome  of 
the  Merchandize ;  whereupon  there  resides  his  Emir  or  Treasurar 
who  payes  him  thirty  five  thousand  Dollars  a  yeare**,  as  himselfe 

1  Mundy  introduces  his  Appendix  thus: — "Mr  Henry  Blunt  Gent,  in  his 
book  intituled  a  voyage  into  the  Levant  performed  by  him  in  Anno  1634, 
printed  Anno  1638,  the  third  edition,  saith  as  follovveth — Rovignio,  a  small 
city  in  Istria,  p.  5,  see  this  booke,  fol.  13."  After  each  extract  Mundy  gives 
the  page  in  Blount's  work,  and  the  fol.  in  the  Ratvlinson  MS.  on  which  there 
is  an  allusion  to  the  place  in  question.  For  Rovigno,  see  also  Relation  II., 
p.  89. 

2  11  Wee  passed  by  Zara  in  Dalmatia "  is  Mundy's  comment  on  this 
paragraph.     See  Relation  II.,  p.  88. 

*  Salona  was  destroyed  by  the  Emperor  Augustus  Csesar  (Octavius)  and 
rebuilt  by  Tiberius. 

*  Mundy  sums  up  the  description  of  Spalato  thus:  —  "Spalatro  a  city  of 
Sclavonia;  they  pay  the  Turck  35,000  ducatts  per  annum."  See  Relation  II., 
pp.  86—88. 


148  APPENDIX   A.      EXTRACTS   FROM 

and  others  told  me :  there  are  high  Walles  and  strong  companies 
to  guard  this  city ;  yet  I  heard  their  cheife  safety  to  be  in  having 
so  unusefuU  and  small  an  Haven,  wherefore  the  Turks  esteeme 
Spalatro  in  effect  but  as  a  land  towne,  nor  so  much  worth  as 
his  present  custome,  and  so  covets  it  not  like  Zara,  for  if  he 
did,  he  has  a  terrible  advantage  upon  it,  having  taken  from  the 
Venetians  Clyssi,  not  above  foure  miles  off ;  which  is  the  strongest 
land  fortresse  that  I  ever  beheld ^... Wee  passed  the  Hilles  of 
Dogliana  farre  higher  then  the  Alpes,  and  so  steepe  as  our  descent 
for  three  dayes  together  it  was  a  greater  precipice  then  that  halfe 
day  his  [day's]  comming  downe  from  Mount  Cenis,  into  Piemont'; 
having  for  the  most  part  rode  thus  nine  dayes,  wee  came  into 
a  spacious  and  fruitefull  playne,  which,  at  the  West,  where  wee 
entred,  at  least  tenne  miles  over,  is  on  the  North  and  South  sides 
immured  with  ridges  of  easie  and  pleasant  hilles,  still  by  degrees 
streightning  the  plaine,  till,  after  six  or  seven  miles  riding,  it 
growes  not  above  a  mile  broad  :  there  found  wee  the  city  Saraih, 
which  extends  from  the  one  side  to  the  other,  and  takes  up  part 
of  both  Ascents ;  at  the  East  end  stands  a  Castle  upon  a  steepe 
rocke,  commanding  the  Towne  and  passage  Eastward.  This  is 
the  Metropolis  of  the  kingdome  of  Bosnah  :  it  is  but  meanely 
built  and  not  great,  reckoning  about  fourescore  Mescheetoes  and 
twenty  thousand  houses^. 

In  my  three  dayes  aboade,  the  most  notable  things  I  found 
was  the  goodnesse  of  the  water  and  vaste,  almost  gyant  like 
stature  of  the  men*,  which,  with  their  bordring  upon  Germany \ 
made  mee  suppose  them  to  be  the  offspring  of  those  old 
Germans,  noted  by  Caesar  and  Tacitus  for  their  huge  size,  which, 
in  other  places,  is  now  degenerate  into  the  ordinary  proportions 
of  men.... Thus  marcht  wee  ten  dayes  through  a  hilly  country, 
cold,  not  inhabited,  and  in  a  manner  a  continued  wood,  most  of 

^  Mundy  remarks  on  this — "  Keeleesh  [i.e.  Clissa]  the  stronguest  landfort 
hee  had  seen."     See  Relation  II.,  p.  85. 

^  "The  hills  of  Dovvlanee  expressed  and  magnified  above  the  Alpes"  is. 
Mundy's  comment  on  this  passage.     See  a\so  Relation  \1.,  pp.  83  and  112 — 114. 

^  Here  Mundy  gives  the  following  note : — "  Sarai,  which  I  otherwise  call 
Bosna-sarai.  Sarai  in  Turkish  signifies  a  pallace  or  court  and  Bosna  is  the 
province,  soe  Bosna  Sarai  is  the  court  or  cheife  citty  of  the  kingdom  or 
province.  It  hath  eighty  mosches,  Messets,  or  Turkish  Churches  and  about 
20,000  houses."     See  also  Relation  II.,  p.  81  f. 

*  See  Relation  II.,  p.  8r. 

^  The  old  German  Empire  extended  down  the  Illyrian  coast,  as  far  as. 
Spalato,  or  nearly  so,  long  before  and  long  after  the  author's  time. 


BLOUNT'S  VOYAGE  INTO  THE  LEVANT       I49 

Pine  trees ^:  at  length  wee  reached  Valliovah^,  a  pretty  little 
Towne  upon  the  confines  of  Hungary... being  to  passe  a  Wood 
neare  the  Christian  country,  doubting  it  to  bee  (as  confines  are) 
full  of  Thieves,  we  divided  our  Caravan  of  sixescore  Horse  into 
two  parts... so  in  three  dayes  we  came  safe  to  Belgrada^. 

This  Citie,  anciently  called  Taurunum  or  Alba  Graeca,  was 
the  Metropolis  of  Hungary  till  wonne  by  Sultan  Solyman  the 
second,  in  the  yeare  1525*.  it  is  one  of  the  most  pleasant, 
stately  and  commodious  scituations  that  I  have  scene  ^;  it  stands 
most  in  a  bottome,  encompassed  East-ward  by  gentle  and  pleasant 
ascents,  employed  in  Orchards  or  Vines ;  South-ward  is  an  easie 
hill,  part  possest  with  buildings,  the  rest  a  burying  place  of  well 
nigh  three  miles  in  compasse,  so  full  of  graves  as  one  can  bee  by 
another  :  the  West  End  yeilds  a  right  magnificent  aspect,  by  reason 
of  an  eminency  of  land  jetting  out  further  then  the  rest,  and 
bearing  a  goodly  strong  Castle,  whose  walles  are  two  miles  about, 
excellently  fortified  with  a  dry  ditch  and  out-workes*:  this  Castle 
on  the  West  side  is  washed  by  the  great  River  Sava,  which,  on 
the  North  of  the  Citie,  loses  it  selfe  in  the  Danubius,  of  old 
called  Ister,  now  Duny'',  and  is  held  the  greatest  River  in  the 
world,  deepe  and  dangerous  for  Navigation,  runnes  East-ward 
into  the  Euxine  or  blacke  Sea,  in  its  passage  receiving  fifty  and 
odde  Rivers,  most  of  them  navigable :  two  rarities  I  was  told  of 
this  River,  and,  with  my  owne  experience,  found  true  :  one  was 
that  at  mid-day  and  mid-night  the  streame  runnes  slower  by 
much  then  at  other  times ;  this  they  finde  by  the  noyse  of  those 
Boat-milles,  whereof  there  are  about  twenty,  like  those  upon  the 
Rhoane  at  Lyons  ^:  their  clakkers  beate  much  slower  at  those 
times  then  else,  which  argues  like  difference  in  the  motion  of 

^  See  Relation  II.,  pp.  78 — 8r,  for  Mundy's  description  of  this  district. 

^  Valjevo:  see  Relation  II.,  p.  78. 

^  Pindar's  train  also  occupied  three  days  in  the  journey  from  Belgrade  to 
Valjevo.     See  Relation  II.,  p.  78. 

*  Belgrade  capitulated  to  Sulinian  I.,  the  Magnificent,  on  the  2Qth  Aug. 
1521.  Five  years  later,  on  the  29th  Aug.  1526,  Suliman  defeated  the  Hungarians 
at  the  battle  of  Mohacz,  and,  on  the  loth  Sept.,  entered  Belgrade. 

•5  Belgrade  "much  commended"  is  Mundy's  comment.  See  also  Rela- 
tioit  II.,  pp.  72 — 75. 

®  See  Relation  II.,  p.  74. 

''  Duna  is  the  Hungarian  name  for  the  river.  The  Latin  names  were 
Danubius  for  the  upper  and  Ister  for  the  lower  course  of  the  stream. 

^  See  Relation  II.,  pp.  72,  73  and  119. 


150  APPENDIX   A.      EXTRACTS   FROM 

the  wheele,  and,  by  consequence,  of  the  streame ;  the  cause  is 
neither  any  refluxe  nor  stop  of  current  by  winde  or  otherwise, 
for  there  is  no  increase  of  water  observed^:  The  other  wonder 
is  that,  where  those  two  great  currents  meete,  their  waters  mingle 
no  more  then  water  and  oyle ;  not  that  either  floats  above  other, 
but  joyne  unmixed,  so  that,  neere  the  middle  of  the  river,  I  have 
gone  in  a  Boat  and  tasted  of  the  Danuby  as  Cleare  and  pure 
as  a  well,  then  putting  my  hand  not  an  inch  further,  I  have 
taken  of  the  Sava  as  troubled  as  a  street  channell,  tasting  the 
gravell  in  my  teeth ;  yet  did  it  not  taste  unctious,  as  I  expected^ 
but  hath  some  other  secret  ground  of  the  antipathy,  which  though 
not  easily  found  out  is  very  effectuall ;  for  they  run  thus  three- 
score miles  together  and,  for  a  dayes  journey,  I  have  been  an 
eye  witnesse  thereof^ 

The  Castle  is  excellently  furnished  with  Artilery  and,  at  the 
entrance,  there  stands  an  Arsenall  with  some  forty  or  fifty  Brasse 
peeces,  most  bearing  the  Armes  and  inscription  of  Ferdinand 
the  Emperour^:  that  which  to  mee  seemed  strangest  in  this 
castle  (for  I  had  free  libertie  to  pry  up  and  downe)  was  a  round 

^  Other  travellers,  besides  Blount,  remark  on  this  peculiarity  of  the  current 
of  the  Danube  at  Belgrade.  In  Harl.  MS.  6796,  p.  33,  Voyage  de  France 
a  Constanlinople,  ?  1583,  we  have  the  following  account: — "  Le  Cours  du 
Danube  est  700  lieues  francois,  recoit  60  rivieres  navigables,  va  contre  le  cours 
du  soleil  du  couchant  au  levant... a  cecy  de  remarquable  que  le  vers  le  milieu 
de  son  cours  le  soleil  estant  en  sa  forme  un  peu  devant  et  apres  midy  diminue 
la  force  de  son  cours,  ce  qu'il  paroist  des  moulins  qui  sent  au  milieu,  de  I'eau 
qui  ne  meulent  pas  tant  vers  midy  que  le  matin  ou  le  soir." 

Des  Hayes,  who  travelled  to  Belgrade  in  162 1,  has  a  similar  story,  Voiage 
de  Levant,  p.  49,  "  Pendant  que  nous  fiismes  sur  le  Danube,  nous  observasmes 
une  chose  qui  est  difficile  a  croire  et  qui  pourtant  est  vraye  et  digne  de  re- 
marque;  c'est  que  cette  riviere  allant  du  Couchant  au  Levant,  le  Soleil  estant 
en  sa  force,  en  arreste  le  cours :  de  sorte  qu'un  peu  devant  et  un  peu  apres 
midy  elle  ne  va  pas  si  viste  qu'elle  fait  le  soir  et  le  matin  quand  le  Soleil 
a  moins  de  force :  mais  I'on  ne  s'aper9oit  point  de  ce  changement  que  de  Bude 
a  Belgrade :  ce  qui  se  voit  aisement  par  les  moulins  qui  sont  au  milieu  de 
I'eau,  et  qui  sont  grandement  dangereux,  lesquels  ne  meulent  pas  tant  a  midy 
comme  le  matin  et  le  soir." 

^  Blount  is  partly  correct  in  his  statement.  The  Danube  is  yellow  and 
the  Save  blue,  and  the  two  rivers  run  side  by  side,  distinct  in  colour,  for 
about  three  quarters  of  a  mile  [not  sixty  miles)  beyond  their  junction,  blending 
just  below  the  fortress  at  Belgrade. 

Mundy  sums  up  Blount's  description  of  the  Danulje  thus: — "The  River 
of  Danubius  and  Savus  Runs  about  60  miles  in  one  Channell  unmingled, 
Danubius  very  Clear,  Savus  extreame  muddy;  and  of  Danubius  that  it  should 
run  swifter  at  Noone  and  Midnight  then  at  other  tymes,  observed  by  the 
Clackers  of  their  Milles,  which  then  strike  oftner  and  quicker,  the  reason  not 
knowne."     See  also  Relation  II.,  p.  73. 

^  Ferdinand  II.,  Emperor  of  Germany,  1619 — 1637.    See  Relation  II.,  p.  75. 


BLOUNT  S   VOYAGE   INTO   THE   LEVANT  151 

Tower,  called  the  Zindana,  a  crueltie  not  by  them  devised,  and 
seldome  practised;  it  is  like  old  Romes  Gemoniae^;  the  Tower 
is  large  and  round,  but  within  severed  into  many  squares  of  long 
beames,  set  on  end  about  foure  foot  a  sunder ;  each  beame  was 
stuck  frequent  with  great  flesh-hookes ;  the  person  condemned 
was  naked  let  fall  amongst  those  hookes,  which  gave  him  a  quicke 
or  lasting  misery,  as  he  chanc'd  to  light :  then,  at  the  bottome, 
the  river  is  let  in  by  grates,  whereby  all  putrifaction  was  washt 
away.  Within  this  great  Castle  is  another  little  one,  with  works 
of  its  owne.  I  had  like  to  have  miscarried  with  approaching 
the  entrance,  but  the  rude  noise  and  worse  lookes  of  the  Guard 
gave  me  a  timely  apprehension  with  sudden  passage  and  humilia- 
tion to  sweeten  them,  and  get  off:  for,  as  I  after  learnt,  there 
is  kept  great  part  of  the  Gran  Signior  his  treasure,  to  be  ready 
when  he  warres  on  that  side  the  Empire;  it  is  death  for  any 
Turke  or  Christian  to  enter;  and  the  Captaine  is  never  to  goe 
forth  without  particular  licence  from  the  Emperour...we  set 
forward  for  Sophya^,  which  in  twelve  dayes  we  reacht...in  the 
way,  wee  passed  by  a  Palanga,  which  is  a  Village  fortified  with 
mud  walles  against  Theeves^... through  all  Turky,  especially  in 
places  desert,  there  are  many  Mountaineers  or  Outlawes,  like  the 
wild  Irish,  who  live  upon  spoyle'*,  and  are  not  held  members  of 
the  State,  but  enemies,  and  used  accordingly — 

In  this  journey  we  passed  through  a  pretty  little  towne,  called 
Nisse^ 

In  twelve  days  wee  came  to  Sophya,  the  chiefe  Citie  (after 
the  Turkish  division)  of  Bulgary,  but,  according  to  the  other 
Geographie,  it  stands  in  Macedonia  upon  the  confines  of 
Thessaly ;  nor  hath  it  yet  lost  the  old  Grecian  Civilitie,  for 
of  all  the  Cities  I  ever  passed,  either  in  Christendome  or  with- 
out, I  never  saw  any  where  a  stranger  is  lesse  troubled  either 
with  affronts  or  gaping :  it  stands  almost  in  the  midst  of  a  long 
and  fruitfull  valley'';  on  the  North-side,  about  foure  miles  distant. 


^  The  Gemonije  were  steps  cut  out  of  the  Aventine,  down  which  the 
bodies  of  criminals  strangle  1  in  the  prison  were  dragged  by  hooks  and  after- 
wards thrown  into  the  Tiber. 

^  See  Relaiion  II.,  p.  62. 

^  See  Relation  II.,  pp.  68,  70  and  71. 

*  See  Relation  II.,  pp.  55,  61,  62,  66,  69,  71  and  72. 

^  See  Relation  II.,  p.  69. 

^  See  Relation  II.,  p.  63. 


152  APPENDIX   A.      EXTRACTS   FROM 

runnes  a  ridge  of  low  hils ;  South-ward,  three  miles  off,  stands 
an  high  and  steepe  mountaine,  where  Snow  appeares  all  the 
yeare  :  the  Jewes  and  Christians  have  here  the  doores  of  their 
houses  little  above  three  foote  high,  which  they  told  mee  was 
that  the  Turkes  might  not  bring  in  their  Horses,  who  else  would 
use  them  for  Stables  in  their  travell ;  which  I  noted  for  a  signe 
of  greater  slavery  then  in  other  places. 

Here  is  the  Seate  of  the  Beglerbeg  or  Viceroy  of  all  Greece, 
by  the  Turkes  called  Rumely';  with  many  brave  Mescheetoes, 
especially  the  great  one  in  the  middle  of  the  Towne,  and  another 
in  the  South-side,  with  a  magnificent  Colledge :  it  hath  many 
stately  Hanes  or  Kirevanserahes  ^  and  exquisite  Bathes,  the 
principall  hath  a  hot  Fountaine...wee  went. ..in  three  dayes  to 
Potarzeeke  :  the  passage  is  famous  for  Antiquities  :  sixteene,  or 
eighteene  miles  East-ward  of  Sophya,  wee  past  over  the  Hill 
Rhodope  where  Orpheus  lamented  his  Euridice*:  it  hath  divers 
inequalities  of  ground,  none  very  steepe,  all  covered  with  Low 
Woods,  now  watched  with  divers,  who  by  reason  of  the  frequent 
robberies  there  committed,  doe,  by  little  Drums'*,  give  the  in- 
habitants warning  of  all  suspicious  passengers  :  in  the  lowest  of 
these  descents  runnes  a  little  Brooke,  of  which  I  conjectured, 
and  a  learned  Jew... confirmed,  that  the  old  Poets  had  made  the 
River  Strymon,  where  the  disconsolate  Orpheus  was  torne  in 
pieces  by  the  Thracian  Dames ;  for  that  place  hath  ever  beene 
uncertainely  reckoned  to  Macedonia,  Thrace  and  Thessaly^ 

At  last  we  came  to  an  high  and  large  mountaine,  of  a  dayes 
journey  over;  the  Jew  held  it  to  bee  the  Thermopylae^;  a  place 

^  i.e.  Roumelia.     See  Relation  II.,  p.  62  f. 

2  Khans  or  Caravanserais.     See  Relation  II.,  pp.  52 — 54. 

^  See  Relation  II.,  note  9  on  p.  61. 

*  Compare  the  account  in  Relation  II.,  p.  61  f. 

^  Mundy  abstracts  this  passage  and  adds  his  own  note  as  follows : — 
"  About  twenty  miles  beyond  Sophia  towards  Phillippopolis  are  certaine  hills 
which  hee  was  informed  by  an  ancient  Jew  to  bee  Rodope  where  Orpheus 
Lamented  his  Euridice,  and  in  one  of  the  Vallies,  the  River  Strimon,  where 
Orpheus  was  torne  in  peeces  by  the  Thracian  dames.  The  place  hath  ever 
bin  uncertainely  reckoned  to  Macedonia,  Thrace  and  Thessaly,  about  four 
miles  this  side  Cappeekeeoy  [Kapuli].  The  story  happened  Anno  Mundy, 
2700,  and  1244  years  before  Christ."     See  also  Relation  II.,  p.  61,  note  9. 

^  On  Thermopylae  Mundy  notes,  "  Thermopylae  is  thought  to  bee  at 
Cappee  Keeoy  (Cappee  in  Turkish  is  a  gate  or  porte),  where  it  is  thought 
Leonidas,  king  of  Sparta,  with  400  souldiers  kept  the  passage  against  Xerxes 
with  1000,000  men;  read  the  story  here,  p.  19  [of  Blount's  Voyage\,  Anno 
Mundi  3470,  before  Christ,  474."  By  "  Cappee  Keeoy"  Mundy  means  Kapuli. 
See  Relation  II.,  p.  61. 


BLOUNT'S  VOYAGE  INTO  THE  LEVANT       1 53 

as  Stoutly  contested  for  of  old  as  now  the  Valtoline'  with  us; 
herewith  hee  told  mee  that  Easterne  custome  of  wearing  Tur- 
bants  came  from  thence,  and  that  how  once  the  Barbarous  people 
having  the  Grecian  Army  at  a  great  advantage,  there  was  no 
other  remedy,  but  that  some  few  should  make  good  that  narrow 
passage,  while  the  maine  of  the  Army  might  escape  away,  there 
were  brave  Spirits  who  undertooke  it;  and  knowing  they  went 
to  an  unevitable  death,  they  had  care  of  nothing  but  Sepulture, 
which  of  old  was  much  regarded ;  wherefore,  each  of  them 
carried  his  winding  sheete  wrapt  about  his  head,  and  then  with 
losse  of  their  owne  lives  saved  their  fellowes :  whereupon,  for 
an  Honourable  memoriall  of  that  exploit,  the  Levantines  used 
to  wrap  white  linnen  about  their  heads,  and  the  fashion  so  derived 
upon  the  Turke. 

This  may  be  the  Story  of  Leonidas  with  his  three  hundred 
Spartanes,  but  corrupted  by  time  and  tradition  :... and  this  might 
well  bee  the  Thermopylae  ^  if  they  were  so  neare  the  Phylippick 
Fields;  for,  besides  his  confession,  the  tradition  of  divers  there 
inhabiting  and  all  concordance  of  Stories  assure  us  that  the 
Champagne^  betweene  this  Mountaine  and  Philippopolis,  of 
above  fortie  or  fifty  miles  long,  was,  from  that  Citie  built  by 
Philip,  called  Campi  Philippici,  famous  for  the  Roman  civill 
warres  there  decided  in  two  Battels  :  the  first  betweene  Caesar 
and  Pompey ;  The  other  betweene  Augustus  and  Marke  Antony, 
against  Brutus  and  Cassius  :  the  Plaine,  but  that  it  is  a  Valley, 
much  resembles  our  Downes  of  Marleborough,  where  the  Saxons, 
as  it  is  thought,  had  a  great  Battell :  for,  just  in  that  manner, 
there  yet  remaine  the  heapes  where  the  Slaine  were  buried,  and 
good  part  of  the  Trenches  :  the  two  Battels  were  fought  sixteene 

^  Compare  A  Joiiniall  of  a  Voyage  thro'  France  and  Italy  (in  1658),  Sloane 
MS.  2142,  "April  28. ..wee  rid  some  .^o  miles  this  day,  most  of  it  being  very 
bad  and  difficult  way  to  passe  being  constrained  to  walk  a  foote  14  mile  downe 
a  Mountaine  and  soe  wee  entered  into  the  Country  o^"  the  Valtolines  which 
are  a  People  that  have  four  or  five  little  Townes  in  their  possession  but 
among  the  Mountaines,  All  Catholickes  and  under  the  power  of  the  Orisons.... 
April  30... we  lay  at  the  foote  of  a  greate  Mountaine  that  seperates  the 
Country  of  the  Valtolines  from  that  of  the  Orisons."  The  Valtellina  is  a 
district  in  N.  Italy  near  the  Rhsetian  Alps.  It  was  seized  by  the  Orison  League 
in  1 51 2  and  ceded  to  it  in  1530.  At  the  instigation  of  Spain,  (he  Catholics 
rose  and  murdered  the  Protestants,  July,  1620.  After  much  contention  be- 
tween the  French  and  Austrians,  the  neutrality  of  the  Valtellina  was  assured 
in  1639. 

^  See  Relation  II.,  p.  61,  note  6. 

^  For  Mundy's  remark  on  "  Champion  Countrie,"  see  Relation  II.,  p.  60. 


154  APPENDIX   A.      EXTRACTS   FROM 

or  eighteene  miles  asunder,  as  appeares  by  the  Sepulchers  and 
the  Trenches;  Caesars  was  next  the  Hill;  the  other  neerer 
Philippopolis...in  Caesars  Battell  there  dyed  but  fifteene  thousand 
two  hundred,  in  the  other  almost  twice  as  many ;  this  proportion 
is  made  good  in  the  heapes,  those  towards  Philippopoli  being 
greater  and  much  more  in  number  then  the  other :  then  Caesar 
writes  that  after  Pompey  and  the  maine  of  his  Army  was  fled, 
a  residue  not  yet  disperst  retired  to  a  hill  sixe  miles  of,  which 
had  a  River  runne  under  it.  This  squares  right  with  a  hill  on 
the  South-side  of  Potarzeeke,  a  little  Towne  betweene  the  two 
Camps. ...This  Potarzeeke  had  it  not  beene  remarkable  for  the 
place,  was  not  worth  mention ;  for  it  is  but  a  small  Towne 
reckoning  not  above  foure  thousand  houses  but  is  very  pleasant 
with  hills,  and  a  River  South-ward. 

Hence  we  passed  East-ward  through  the  rest  of  the  Plaine, 
along  the  Monuments  of  Brutus  and  Cassius  his  defeature;  the 
Tumuli  are  many,  some  great,  some  small,  more  or  lesse  close 
together,  as  the  slaughter  hapned,  and  reach  at  least  eight  or 
nine  miles  in  length,  extending  as  it  seemes  the  flight  did, 
towards  PhiHppopolis^,  now  in  Turkish  called  Philibee  where  in 
two  dayes  we  arrived. 

^  Mundy  comments  at  length  on  this  passage  under  the  heads  of  "  Phil- 
lipick  feilds"  and  "Burialls": — 

"  Campi  Phillipici  or  the  Phillipick  feilds  is  thought  to  bee  the  plaine 
country  betweene  Phillippopolis  and  the  Hills,  six  miles  beyond  Yelkeeoy 
[see  Relation  II.,  p.  60  f.],  famous  for  the  Romaine  Civill  Warre  decided  here 
in  twoe  battles,  viz.,  betweene  Ceasar  and  Pompey,  allso  betweene  Augustus 
and  Marck  Antonio  against  Brutus  and  Cassius,  Ceasers  Near  the  Hills,  the 
other  Near  Phillippopolis.  Allso  in  Sir  Walter  Rawleighes  History  of  the 
World,  lib.  4.  p.  229,  saith,  Eumenes  burned  the  bodies  of  his  owne  Men 
and  interred  the  bones  and  ashes  of  his  captaines  and  common  Souldiers 
apart,  Raysing  upp  heapes  of  earth  as  mountaines  over  them :  and  soe  went 
his  way.  [The  passage  quoted  occurs  on  p.  192  of  Book  iv.  in  the  1614,  1631 
and  1634  editions  of  Ralegh's  work.] 

The  battle  betweene  Antigonus  and  Eumenes  was  as  farre  as  I  can  gather 
Near  this  place  and  perhappes  the  same  buriall  places,  Eumenes  beeing  over- 
throwne  through  the  treachrey  of  his  owne ;  Sir  Walter  Rawleigh  Lib.  4. 
p.  250  [pp.  208 — 2(1  in  the  editions  mentioned  above];  hee  was  finally 
betrayed,  taken,  bound  and  delivered  (by  Teutamos  and  the  silver  Sheelds) 
unto  Antigonus  who  putt  him  to  death.  To  this  end  came  the  traveiles  of 
that  Worthy  generall  Eumenes,  who  had  witli  great  Wisedom,  Valour,  fidelity 
and  patience  endeavoured  in  vaine  to  upphold  the  family  which  God  had 
determined  to  cast  downe;  hee  is  reckned  among  the  Notable  examples  of 
fortunes  Mutability.  Read  More  at  large  lib.  4  p.  250  [p.  210  in  the  editions 
of  Ralegh's  History  of  the  I Fo rid  noted  above]. 

This  hapned  a  little  after  the  death  of  Alexander,  Anno  .3612,  by  some 
computations,  of  which  there  be  divers.  The  buriall  places  Mr.  Blunt  saw; 
but  of  those  buriall  places  or  Mountaines  off  earth  I  can  say  No  More  then 


BLOUNT'S   VOYAGE   INTO   THE   LEVANT  155 

A  little  before  the  Citie',  on  the  North-side,  wee  saw  the 
Gran  Signior  his  Stable  of  Camels,  where  is  place  and  order  for 
five  thousand  Camels,  which  carry  his  provisions  when  hee 
Warres  on  this  side  his  Empire ;  and  then  the  generall  Ren- 
divouz  uses  to  bee  in  these  Philippick  Fields",  now  termed  the 
Plaine  of  Potarzeeke,  through  which  also  runnes  the  River 
Marissa,  in  some  places  called  Hebrus,  shallow  but  very  broad ; 
over  this  River  at  the  North  entry  of  Phylibee,  is  a  vaste 
woodden  Bridge^,  more  then  a  quarter  of  a  mile  long ;  Through 
the  middest  of  this  Citie,  from  North  to  South,  runnes  a  ridge 
of  rocky  hilles,  partly  taken  up  with  buildings;  the  rest  with 
Sepultures,  among  which  I  found  a  little  Greeke  Chappell^  built 
in  the  old  Gentilisme*,  as  a  Greeke  told  me,  and  it  appeares  also 
by  the  round  forme,  with  equall  division  of  Altars ;  there  re- 
maines  nothing  remarkable  :  After  five  dayes  stay,  we  went  foure 
dayes  journey  through  many  pretty  Townes  of  Thrace'*,  till  we 
came  to  the  Chiefe  Citie  thereof,  and  one  of  the  principall  in 
all  Turky :  This  is  Andrinople®,  in  Turkish  Heidrianee,  of 
Hadrian,  who  repaired  it :  originally  it  was  styled  Orestae  from 
its  Founder;  for  as  the  Greekes  there  pretend,  it  was  built  by 
Orestes^  Sonne  to  Agamemnon  :  Untill  the  conquest  of  Con- 
stantinople,   it   was    the   Turkes    Emperiall   Seate :    North-East, 

that  I  can  well  remember,  and  I  thinck  it  was  hereabouts,  that  wee  came  to 
a  spacious  even  plaine  [see  p.  61  f.]  and  that  here  were  here  and  there  divers 
little  hills  fashioned  like  heypokes,  but  very  large  and  high,  by  computation 
70  or  80  feete,  and  soe  much  diameter  in  the  bottom,  which  appeared  in  the 
plaine  as  Hands  in  the  Sea,  and  seemed  not  otherwise  by  their  proportions 
but  to  bee  made  by  Mens  hands. 

In  Sir  W.  Rawleigh,  lib.  3,  p.  63  [p.  52  of  the  editions  noted  above],  you 
shall  find  the  fight  at  Thermypolae  or  Thermapylae  set  downe  punctually 
that  the  straights  was  betweene  Thessaly  and  Greece,  half  acre  of  ground 
space."     See  also  Relation  II.,  p.  6r,  note  6. 

1  i.e.  Philippopolis.     See  Relation  II.,  p.  54. 

2  See  Relation  II.,  p.  54,  note  9.  •'  See  Relation  II.,  p.  54. 
*  i.e.  in  the  style  of  gentilism,  or  like  a  pagan  temple. 

5  See  Relation  II.,  pp.  52—54.  ^  See  Relation  II.,  p.  49. 

5"  On  Orestes  Mundy  notes,  "  See  in  H.  okes  [Holyoke's]  Dictionary  the 
name  Orestes,  the  story  of  him  and  Pylades,  with  other  accidents,  floreat 
Anno  Mundi  2188,  after  the  destruction  of  Troy  twenty  yeares,  before  Christ 
1 160  yeares."  The  Dictionary  referred  to  is  the  "  Dictionarium  Etymologicum 
Latinum.... Declaring  the  Originall  and  Derivation  of  all  Words  used  in  any 
Latine  Authors.. ..Whereunto... are  added  many  thousand  other  words. ..with 
their  Greeke  in  more  exactnesse  than  ever  was  in  Calepine,  Morelius,  or  any 
other.  ...Hereunto  is  also  annexed  the  Proper  Names  adorned  with  their 
Etymologies.... Lastly  Rider's  Dictionarie... augmented  with  many  hundreds 
of  words. ..newly  corrected,  and  very  much  augmented  by  the  great  Industrie 
and  paines  of  Francis  Holy-oke,  1633."  The  full  title  occupies  an  entire 
page. 


156  APPENDIX   A.      EXTRACTS   FROM 

North  and  North- West  lye  certaine  low  and  easie  hilles,  amongst 
which  glides  the  little  River  Tuny\  from  the  North-side  of  the 
Citie  to  the  West,  where,  meeting  a  branch  of  the  Marissa,  it 
passes  a  mile  or  more  South-East,  where,  Joyning  with  the  other 
branch,  it  runs  stately  through  the  adjoyning  Plaine,  on  which 
Zerxes  first  Mustered  his  vaste  Army  when  he  had  passed  the 
Helespont. 

This  City,  among  divers  other  names,  hath  beene  called 
Trimontium  because  it  stands  upon  three  little  hilles^  or  rather 
one  low  Hill,  with  three  eminencies,  the  middest  is  the  highest 
and  largest,  upon  the  toppe  whereof,  as  the  crowne  and  glory  of 
the  other  buildings,  stands  a  stately  Mescheeto  built  by  Sultan 
Solyman  the  Second,  with  foure  high  and  curious  Spyres,  at 
each  corner  one,  as  the  manner  of  Turky  is^;...A  little  without 
the  Citie  North-ward  stands  the  Gran  Signior  his  Serraglio,  with 
a  Parke  walled,  some  three  miles  compasse^:... 

After  ten  dayes  stay  at  Adrinople,  we  rode  up  and  downe... 
to  Burgaz,  Churlo^  and  divers  other  pretty  Townes,  all  of  them 
adorned  with  daintie  Meskeetoes,  Colledges,  Hospitals,  Hanes, 
and  Bridges... we  came  to  Selibree,  of  old  Selymbria^,  no  great 
Towne,  but  bigger  then  the  rest  and  very  ancient ;  the  old  Castle 
and  walles  not  quite  demolished ;  It  stands  upon  the  south  end 
of  a  long  but  low  hill ;  the  other  three  points  are  encompassed 
by  Sea,  with  a  rocky  and  unsafe  Port ;  from  whence,  on  the 
other  side  of  the  Bay,  you  may  discerne  a  round  Hill  upon 
which  remaine  more  ruines  of  the  old  Citie  Heraclea®..,.Next 
after  I  had  kissed  the  hands  of  the  right  Honourable,  Sir  Peter 
Weych,  Lord  Embassadour  for  his  Majesty  of  England'',  I  tooke 
an  instant  opportunitie  of  passage  for  Egypt.... Some  thirtie  miles 


^  i.e.  the  Tondja.     Mundy  mentions  the  river.     See  Relation  II.,  p.  49. 

^  Here  follows  a  detailed  description  by  Blount  of  this  "  Meskeeto,"  the 
fountain  near  it,  the  "  Besisteins  or  Exchanges,"  bridges,  walls,  etc. 

^  See  Relation  II.,  p.  49  f. 

^  For  Lule-Burgas  and  Chorlu,  see  Relation  II.,  p.  48. 

^  See  Relation  II.,  p.  47. 

^  Here  follows  Blount's  description  of  Constantinople,  its  position,  chief 
buildings,  etc. 

''  Here  Mundy  remarks,  "  Sir  Peter  Wyche,  Embassador  at  Constantinople, 
brother  unto  my  late  master  Mr.  Richard  Wyche,  with  whome  I  might  have 
gon  thither  againe,  but  took  another  course.  I  knew  nine  brethren  in  forraigne 
and  farre  distant  Regions."  This  last  remark  seems  to  refer  to  the  Wyche 
family.  See  Appendix  B.  for  Mundy's  connection  with  three  of  the  brothers 
Wyche. 


BLOUNT'S  VOYAGE  INTO  THE  LEVANT      1 57 

beneath  Gallippoly  is  the  streightest  passage  of  the  Hellespont' 
not  above  halfe  a  mile  broad ;  a  place  formerly  famous  for  Zerxes 
his  Bridge,  but  much  more  glorious  in  the  loves  of  Hero  and 
Leander;  These  Castles  called  the  Dardanelli,  command  the 
passage,  and  are  the  securitie  of  Constantinople  on  that  side  : 
That  upon  Europe,  anciently  Sestos,  is  made  with  two  Towers, 
one  within  the  other ;  the  inmost  highest,  by  reason  of  the  rising 
ground  upon  which  they  stand,  each  bearing  the  forme  of  three 
Semi  circles  with  the  outwall  Triangular :  The  other  upon  the 
Asian  Shoare,  is  farre  stronger,  standing  on  a  Marish  levell ;  it 
is  of  forme  square  with  foure  round  Turrets,  at  each  corner  one ; 
in  the  middle  before  stands  an  high  square  Tower  commanding 
over  all :  This  formerly  was  named  Abydos,  not  that  the  buildings 
remaine  the  same,  but  often  reedified  in  the  same  place^...wee 
reached  Cape  Janizar,  anciently  Promontorium  Sigaeum,  where 
Troy^  stood,  of  which  nothing  remaines  to  bee  scene,  but  a  peece 
of  an  old  wall ^ 


^  See  Relation  I.,  p.  20. 

2  Mundy's  note  on  this  passage  is  as  follows :—"  The  two  Castles  below 
Constantinople  called  the  Dardanelli,  betweene  which  wee  sailed  before  wee 
came  to  the  Citey,  not  mentioned  in  this  booke  \i.e.  Mundy's  MS.],  anciently 
Sestos  and  Abidos,  Sestos  on  Europe  side  and  Abidos  on  the  Asian  shore, 
Mr.  H.  B.  p.  27.  Here  it  is  said  that  Xerxes  made  a  bridge  of  boates  over 
the  Hellespont  to  passe  into  Europe." 

^  See  p.  20.  Mr  Edwin  Pears  has  kindly  furnished  me  with  the  following 
note  on  the  Troy  of  the  early  travellers : — The  sites  on  the  West  of  the  bay, 
now  called  Koum  Kale,  and  South  of  the  river  Simois  where  there  exist  several 
mounds  known  as  the  tombs  of  Achilles,  of  Patrocles,  etc.  were  probably  re- 
garded as  those  of  Troy.  Hissarlik,  first  recognized  as  Troy  by  Mr  Calvert 
and  since  explored  by  Schlieman  and  Dorpfeldt  is  on  the  opposite,  that  is  on 
the  North  side  of  the  river  Simois.  The  first  were  long  regarded  as  the  site 
of  the  renowned  city.  Critobulus  (Book  ii.)  mentions  a  visit  to  them,  in  1483, 
by  Mahomet  H.,  who  regretted  that  he  had  no  poet  like  Homer  to  celebrate 
his  victories. 

^  Mundy  further  comments  on  Blount's  description  of  Samos  (p.  29), 
four-legged  serpents  (p.  45),  the  "  tombes  within  the  great  Piramides"  (pp. 
45 — 48)  and  "Gran  Cayro"  (p.  38).  He  concludes  these  additions  with  the 
following  note,  "Though  some  of  these  concern  not  this  booke,  yet  I  have 
made  this  small  digression  for  the  strangeness  of  the  matters  mentioned  and 
not  to  be  doubted  of,  that  you  might  not  wonder  too  much  at  smaller  matters 
in  my  owne."  However,  as  these  remarks  throw  no  light  on  this  volume 
of  the  author's  European  Travels,  they  have  been  omitted. 


APPENDIX    B. 

THE   WYCHE   FAMILYi. 

This  family,  with  whom  Mundy  was  intimately  connected  for 
nearly  ten  years ^  was  originally  settled  in  Worcestershire  and 
Cheshire.  Peck^  derives  the  name  from  Wiccia,  a  province  in 
Mercia.  He  says  that  "the  salt-pits  of  Worcestershire  and 
Cheshire  were  by  the  old  English  called  Wiches,"  and  that  "in 
both  counties  were  many  considerable  persons  of  the  name 
of  Wyche." 

The  salt-pits  and  their  surroundings  provided  a  good  training 
for  mercantile  abilities,  and  early  in  the  fifteenth  century,  if  not 
before,  the  adventurous  spirits  of  the  Wyche  family  had  found 
their  way  to  the  capital,  where  they  quickly  identified  themselves 
with  the  life  and  trade  of  the  city.  In  146 1,  Sir  Hugh  Wyche, 
mercer,  son  of  Richard  Wyche,  was  Lord  Mayor  of  London. 
He  died  in  1466  and  was  buried  in  St  Margaret's  Church,  Loth- 
bury.  His  will^,  which  is  very  long,  is  almost  entirely  made  up 
of  bequests  to  churches,  nuns,  monks,  etc.,  and  to  many  and 
various  persons  to  pray  for  the  repose  of  his  soul.  Sir  Hugh  was 
claimed  as  a  direct  ancestor  by  the  merchant  brothers  whom 
Peter  Mundy  served,  and  whose  father  was  Richard  Wyche, 
a  notable  member  of  the  trading  companies  of  the  time.  This 
Richard,  son  of  Richard  Wyche  of  Davenham,  Cheshire,  was 
born  in  1554.  He  married,  in  1581,  Elizabeth,  daughter  of 
Sir  Richard  Saltingstall,  knight.  Lord  Mayor  of  London,  by 
whom  he  had  eighteen  children,  twelve  sons  and  six  daughters. 

Richard  Wyche,  his  brother  Jacob  and  his  nephew  Thomas 
were  all  members  of  the  Skinners'  Company,  Richard  becoming  a 

^  The  name  is  variously  spelt  Wyche,  Wych,  Wich,  Witch,  etc. 

2  See  pp.  10,  14,  23,  45,  136—139,  143  and  156. 

^  See  Jdd.  A/S.  24 121,  fol.  353. 

*  The  will  is  to  be  found  at  Somerset  House,  catalogued  as  23  Godyn. 


Richard  Wyche  of  Davenhani,   Cheshire' 


Richard  Wyche,  =  Elizalieth  Sahingstall, 
skinner,  of 

London, 
1554— 1621 


Thomas  Wyche  of  Alderley, 
d.  ?  1615 

I 


a  dau.  =  —  Giles 


r 


R   ichard  Thomas  Wyche,  William 

Vyche  cit.  and  skinner  Wyche 

of  London,  d.  1618 


Richard  Thomas  Susanna    Daniel     George    Samuel     Sir  Pet. 
d.  1625  d.  before  d.  before      d.  1643 


— T — T      r    1 

Richard       Tliomas      Elizabeth      Abigad       Jane 
d.  1641 


Hugh 
Wyche 


I 

Jacob  Wyche,  =  Jane 
skinner,  of 
London, 
d.  1612 

James 
Wyche 


r  T      1       T  FT — T — 1       \       T        1         I 

r  =  Jane      Elizabeth   =  Job      James        Mary        Anne    I  Edward     Julius     William    Henry     Abigail      Nathaniel      Rebecca 


Mere-      d.  1673 
dith 


liar-         d.              d.         =Robt.  .       d.              d.              d.              =  d.  d.  1659 
by         1618        before  Charletori  1628          1631        before  Dorothy  before 
1620   of  Londori                                      1620             I  1620 
1                     merchant' 


Sir  Erasmus  =  Frances         Anne 
Harby 


Sir  Peter  J,  =  Isabella  BoUes, 
b.  162S  '     I  1666 

d.  ?  1699I 

f 


I 
Jane 


John  =  Bethesda  Savage 


I   . 
Sophia 


Sir  Cyril,   =  Anne,  dau.  of 


Bart., 
d.  r756 


Magnus 
Wedderkoji 


r        T~ 

Magnus  John  Frederica  ^ 

A.  unm.  1740  d.  young 

1  The  pedigree  is  made  up  from  the  sources  already 
from  Burke's  Extinct  Baronetage. 


1 

I 

Peter 

d.  at 

Cambray, 

unm. 


Sir  Cyril    =    i. 
d.  1707      I     2. 


Jermyn 
alive  in 


George 

d.  at 

Pondicherry 


Cyril  Cc 


1. 
melia 


noted  in  the  foregoing  account,    from  the  publications 


Jane 


Elizabeth  Jermyn,  1663 
Lady  Susanna  Perrott,  1684 
Mary  Evelyn,  1692 

:Mary  Hungerford 


Fuscarino 


William 


I  1 

therine  Mary 


of  the  Harkian  Society,  from  Harl.  MS.  2040,  fol.  267  and 


ne 
CI 
M 
C! 
be 
of 

fo 

be 

th 

wi 

m 

H 

bi 

of 

va 

cli 

P( 

a 

R 

be 

Si 

wl 


THE   WYCHE   FAMILY  1 59 

"Master"  in  1614'.  He  was  connected  with  the  East  India 
Company  from  its  earliest  days,  being  an  "Adventurer"  for  ;^2oo 
in  1599.  He  also  held  a  prominent  post  in  the  Levant  or  Turkey 
Company  and  had  sufficient  interest  to  find  employment  in  the 
Mediterranean  Sea  and  its  coasts  for  three,  at  least,  of  his  sons, 
of  whom  Thomas  was  "admitted  to  fellowship  of  the  Levant 
Company"  by  patrimony  in  161 5.  In  January,  i6i6,  Richard 
Wyche  is  mentioned  in  the  Court  Book  of  the  Company  as 
desiring  a  "share  in  stint  of  currans^"  In  December,  1619, 
he  petitioned  for  an  allowance  as  "treasurer  for  the  pirate 
business,"  and  in  February,  1620,  the  year  before  his  death,  he 
was  chosen  "Assistant."  He  was,  besides,  a  member  of  the 
Muscovy  Company,  which  he  assisted  both  with  his  money  and 
his  family.  In  1619,  Sir  John  Menick  testified  to  the  "fair 
carriage  of  Mr.  Wiech's  son  in  Muscovy^."  Richard  Wyche  had 
eight  sons  then  living,  and  to  one  of  these  the  remark  un- 
doubtedly refers. 

This  noted  merchant,  "citizen  and  Skynner  of  London,"  died 
in  162 1  and  was  buried  in  the  Church  of  St  Dunstan's  in  the  East. 
To  his  memory  was  erected  "A  faire  Monument  in  the  North 
He  of  the  Chancell  with  the  inscription  : — Heere  lieth  the  body 
of  Richard  Wyche,  Merchant  and  Citizen  of  London,  free  of  the 
Company  of  Skinners,  amongst  whom  having  borne  all  Offices, 
his  life  and  carriage  was  exemplary.  Hee  married  Elizabeth,  the 
Daughter  of  Sir  William  Saltingstall,  Knight,  sometimes  Alderman 
and  Maior  of  this  Honourable  City  of  London,  by  whom  he  had 
issue,  12  Sonnes  and  6  Daughters,  I'iz.  Richard,  Thomas,  Susan, 
Daniel,  George,  Samuel,  Peter,  Elizabeth^  James,  Mary,  Anne, 
Edward,  Julius,  William,  Henry,  Abigaile,  Nathaniell,  Rebecca. 
Sonnes,  4  deceased,  8  living.  Daughters,  2  deceased,  4  living. 
Hee  yeelded  his  soule  in  peace  to  his  Maker  the  20.  of  November, 
after  67  yeeres  pilgrimage  here  amongst  men,  whose  latter  yeeres 
were  bestowed  in  expectation  of  his  end,  exprest  in  setling  of 
his  estate  here  on  earth,  and  in  preparation  of  his  soule  for  Heaven, 
where  it  now  remaines  in  peace  and  happiness ''." 


1  See  Wadmore,  Some  Account  of  the  Skinners'  Company,  p.  192.  By  his 
will,  in  1618,  Thomas  Wyche  bequeathed  to  the  Skinners'  Company  the  sum 
of  twenty  pounds  for  the  purchase  of  two  cups  for  their  Hall. 

^  State  Papers,  Foreign  Archives,  vol.  148. 

^  Court  Minutes  of  the  East  India  Company. 

*  Stow,  Survey  of  London,  ed.  1633,  p.  833. 


l6o  APPENDIX   B. 

The  will  and  inventory  of  Richard  Wyche^  are  still  extant. 
By  the  former,  dated  i8th  September,  1620,  proved  6th  February, 
1622,  he  bequeathed  one-third  of  his  property  to  his  wife  Eliza- 
beth, one-third  to  his  children  Susanna,  Anne,  Rebecca,  Henry 
and  Nathaniel;  and  the  remaining  third  in  legacies  to  his  daughter 
Susanna,  eldest  son  Richard,  son-in-law  Job  Harby,  cousin 
Clement  Harby  and  nephew  William  Wyche,  with  additions  to 
his  wife  and  three  daughters.  He  stated  that  his  sons  Richard, 
Thomas,  George,  Peter,  Edward  and  Julius  and  his  daughter 
Elizabeth,  though  left  out  of  his  wilP,  were  "all  as  dear  and 
loving"  as  the  rest  of  his  offspring,  but  that  they  had  already 
been  helped  to  the  utmost  of  his  power. 

Of  the  eighteen  children  of  Richard  Wyche,  the  six  who 
predeceased  him  were,  Daniel,  Samuel,  James,  Mary,  William 
and  Abigail.  Of  these,  the  only  one  of  interest  is  James,  the 
ninth  child  and  seventh  son.  In  161 7,  he  was  sent  by  the  Levant 
Company  to  Constantinople  on  the  Royall  Merchant.  He  was 
accompanied  by  Peter  Mundy  who  had  newly  entered  his  service. 
In  the  following  year,  16 18,  James  Wyche  died  of  small-pox 
at  Constantinople^.  He  appears  to  have  left  no  will,  nor  does 
Mundy  give  any  information  about  his  master's  private  affairs. 
The  James  Wyche  who  was  a  Director  of  the  East  India  Company 
from  1650  to  1655'  may  possibly  have  been  a  son  of  Mundy 's 
employer,  but  there  is  no  proof  of  the  relationship. 

The  entries  in  the  document  entitled  "Inventory  of  the 
Estate  of  Richard  Wyche  after  his  decease*"  give  some  idea  of 
the  investments  undertaken  by  the  senior  member  of  the  family. 
The  following  are  extracted  from  the  MS. : — "The  Inventory... of 
all... the  goods  which  late  belonged  unto  Richard  Wyche  late 
Citizen  and  Skynner  of  London  deceased  and  whilst  he  lived  of  the 
parish  of  St.  Dunstans  in  the  East  London  seene  and  valued 
the  4th  day  of  December  Anno  Domini  i62i....Doubtfull  Debts 
oweing  to  the  Testator  at  his  decease :  Item  oweing  by  a  Voyage  to 
Aleppo  748:  17:  08:  by  a  Voyage  to  Constantinople  406:  10:  00: 


^  The  will   is   at    Somerset    House   and    the   inventory   at   the  Bodleian 
Library. 

^  Richard,  however,  had  a  legacy  of  ;!^50  as  executor. 

^  See  pp.  lo,  14,  23  and  136. 

*  Court  Mitnites  of  the  East  India  Company. 

^  Rawl.  MS.  A.  414,  at  the  Bodleian  Library. 


THE  WYCHE   FAMILY  l6l 

by  a  Voyage  to  Xio  [Scio]  and  Smyrna  357 :  05 :  oo:  by  a  Voyage 
to  the  East  Indies  in  the  first  Joynt  Stock  566:  13:  04:  Item 
underwritten  in  the  second  Joynt  Stock  2400:  whereof  600  was 
for  his  Sonne  Thomas  Wyche  and  200  for  his  Sonne  George 
soe  rest  for  his  own  accompt  1600  :  Whereof  payd  in  for  his 
owne  accompt  1150  in  his  lifetyme  and  what  the  proceede  thereof 
will  be  is  uncertaine  :  Item  by  the  third  Joynt  Stock  of  Currants 
24:  09:  08:  by  the  fourth  Joynt  Stock  of  Currants  338:  10:  00 
by  a  Voyage  into  Russia  for  a  Principall  part  in  thereof 
900:  00:  00...."  In  1623,  Job  Harby  and  Richard  Wyche, 
executors  to  the  will  of  Richard  Wyche,  senior,  petitioned  the 
Council  that  they  might  not  be  personally  liable  for  a  tax  rated 
on  the  testator  as  a  member  of  the  Muscovy  Company,  "  having 
already  distributed  his  property  according  to  the  will'." 

Elizabeth  Wyche  survived  her  husband  six  years.  She  died 
in  the  parish  of  St  Dunstan's  in  1628,  leaving  ten  children.  By 
her  will,  dated  i8th  October,  1625,  proved  3rd  March,  1628,  she 
bequeathed  ^100  each  to  her  seven  sons^  and  ;^2oo  each  to 
her  four  daughters.  She  also  provided  in  the  following  terms 
for  her  orphan  grandchildren: — "  Fiftie  Pounds  to  Richard  Wyche 
the  eldest  son  of  son  Richard  the  yearely  use  thereof  I  would  have 
my  Executors... to  alowe  toward  his  skoolinge  and  the  said  fiftie 
pounds  to  bee  given  with  him  to  a  master  when  he  shalbe  put 
forth  to  bee  an  aprentice  And  if  he  should  die  then  my  will 
is  that  the  second  sonne  Thomas  Wyche  shall  have  the  said  fiftie 
pounds,  and  if  he  dye  then  to  Elizabeth  Wyche  their  sister  and 
if  she  should  die  then  to  Abigail  Wyche  and  if  shee  should  die 
to  Jeane  Wyche." 

Of  the  numerous  family  of  Richard  Wyche,  senior,  several 
held  important  positions  both  in  commerce  and  society.  Richard, 
the  eldest  of  the  eighteen  children,  was  a  member  of  the  Levant 
Company.  He  lived  in  "  Minceinge  lane"  and  Mundy  "lay  att 
his  howse"  on  his  return  from  Constantinople  in  September, 
I62o^  In  1625,  he  and  others  entered  into  a  contract  with  the 
"King  of  Spain's  Commissioners,"  as  Mundy  relates,  for  copper 
to  be  delivered  in  Spain.     Trouble  arose  over  this  business  and 

^  See  Calendar  of  State  Papers,  Domestic  Series,  1623,  p.  140. 
^  One  of  the  sons,  Edward,  died  between  the  making  of  the  will  and 
his  mother's  decease. 
^  See  p.  136. 


l62  APPENDIX   B. 

Mundy,  who  had  already  agreed,  in  1622,  to  serve  Richard 
Wyche  for  "five  years  on  certaine  Conditions,"  was  sent  to 
Valladolid  "  to  followe  a  suite  then  dependinge  in  the  Chauncery 
there."  On  his  arrival,  Mundy  found  George  Wyche,  his  "  master's 
brother,  Prisoner  about  the  contract  aforesaid'."  Mundy  does 
not  state  if  his  mission  was  successful,  but,  in  any  case,  he 
failed  to  secure  the  liberation  of  George  Wyche,  who  was  still 
in  Spain  without  "release  from  his  troubles"  in  1628.  On 
Mundy's  return  to  England,  he  found  Richard  Wyche  "very 
dangerously  sick  of  the  Dropsie,"  and  shortly  after,  in  the 
autumn  of  1625,  his  "Master  left  this  life'."  The  five  children 
of  Richard  Wyche  were,  as  stated  above,  mentioned  in  their 
grandmother's  will.  In  1 631,  they  also  received  legacies  under  the 
will  of  their  uncle,  Julius  Wyche.  Richard,  the  eldest  child,  whose 
education  and  apprenticeship  had  been  provided  for  by  his  grand- 
mother, eventually  entered  the  service  of  the  East  India  Company 
and  held  a  post  in  their  Factory  at  Bantam  in  1642  and  1643. 

Thomas  Wyche,  second  son  of  Richard  Wyche,  senior,  is 
perhaps  the  Thomas  mentioned  in  the  will  of  his  uncle  Jacob 
Wyche*,  who  died  in  161 2,  but  as  there  was  at  this  time  another 
Thomas  Wyche,  son  of  Thomas  Wyche  of  Alderley  and  also 
nephew  to  Jacob,  it  is  doubtful  which  of  the  two  is  meant.  Of 
Thomas,  son  of  Richard,  there  is  little  to  relate.  He  became 
a  member  of  the  Levant  Company  in  161 5.  He  outlived  his 
father  and  is  mentioned  in  his  mother's  will.  He  was  probably 
one  of  the  "nine  brethren"  whom  Mundy  mentions  as  being 
"in  forraigne  and  farre  distant  Regions*,"  but  no  record  is  forth- 
coming of  his  life  abroad  or  of  his  death. 

Susanna,  third  child  and  eldest  daughter  of  Richard  Wyche, 
is  mentioned  by  both  her  parents  in  their  wills.  She  was  un- 
married in  1625. 

George,  third  son  of  Richard  Wyche,  senior,  was  mixed  up 
in  his  brother  Richard's  copper  contract  and  was  imprisoned  on 
that  account,  as  previously  related  ^  By  the  will  of  his  brother 
Julius,  dated  1628,  proved  1631,  George  Wyche  was  to  have 
a  legacy  of  ^^300  if   "  he  returne   from    Spayne   or   otherwise 

1  See  pp.  137—139.  -  See  p.  143. 

^  Wills  at  Somerset  House,  12  Fenner. 

*  See  p.  156,  note  7.  ^  See  p.  139. 


THE   WYCHE   FAMILY  1 63 

lyvinge  there,  to  bee  allwaies  paid  as  he  shall  enorder  it,  either 
for  his  maintenance  in  those  partes  or  help  to  release  him  from 
his  troubles  duringe  life  in  his  disposinge."  There  is  no  further 
record  of  the  captive  nor  any  hint  as  to  whether  he  ever  obtained 
his  freedom. 

Peter  Wyche,  the  sixth  son,  is  the  most  prominent  member 
of  this  large  family.  In  1625,  instructions  were  issued  by 
Charles  I.  to  "  Peter  Wich  Esquire  emploied  by  us  as  our  Agent 
resident  with  our  deere  Brother  the  King  of  Spain."  The 
envoy  was  to  deliver  a  Letter  of  Credit  to  the  King  of  Spain 
on  the  death  of  the  late  King  of  England,  James  I.  He  was 
also  instructed  to  "promote  peace  and  commerce"  during  his 
residence  in  Spain \  On  his  return  from  this  mission,  in  1626, 
Peter  Wyche  was  knighted.  The  following  year  he  succeeded 
Sir  Thomas  Roe  as  Ambassador  to  the  Porte,  a  post  he  held 
with  great  distinction  until  1639.  He  married  Jane  Meredith 
and  had  two  sons,  who  also  distinguished  themselves  and  who 
were  both  created  knights.  Mundy  had  the  offer  of  service 
under  the  ambassador  when  he  went  to  Constantinople  in  1627, 
but  "took  another  coursed"  In  his  will  Sir  Peter  styles  himself 
as  "Sir  Peter  Witch  Knight  and  Controwler  of  his  Majesties 
howshowld^"  His  great-grandson,  Sir  Cyril  Wyche,  was  created 
a  Baronet  ^ 

Elizabeth  Wyche,  eighth  child  and  second  daughter  of  Richard 
Wyche,  senior,  married  Job  Harby,  a  London  merchant.  The 
Harbys  and  the  Wyches  were  connected  by  blood  as  well  as  by 
marriage.  Clement  Harby  was  cousin  to  Elizabeth's  father  and 
was  appointed  by  him  as  one  of  the  "overseers"  to  his  will, 
to  which  Job  Harby,  son-in-law,  was  one  of  the  executors.  Mrs 
Job  Harby  made  a  good  match  from  a  worldly  point  of  view  and 
eventually  became  Lady  Harby.  She  outlived  her  husband.  Sir 
Job,  and  died  on  the  7th  November,  1673.  By  her  will^  "the 
Lady  Harby"  desired  to  be  buried  at  "  St.  Dunstans  in  the  East  in 


^  See  State  Papers,  Foreign  ArcJiives,  Spain,  vol.  33. 

^  See  p.  156,  note  7. 

•^  The  will  is  at  Somerset  House. 

*  For  a  further  account  of  Sir  Peter  Wyche  and  his  family,  see  the  article 
in  the  Diet,  of  Nat.  Biog. 

®  See  Razvl.  MS.  A.  414  (in  the  Bodleian  Library),  entitled  Sir  Erasmus 
Harby' s  Manuscript,  vol.  2nd. 


164  APPENDIX   B. 

the  Vallt  of  my  fathers  owne  purchasing."  She  described  herself 
as  the  "Widdow  of  Sir  Job  Harby  Knight  Barronett  deceased, 
being  somewhat  antient  but  of  reasonable  health  of  body."  In 
spite  of  being  "antient"  she  lived  for  more  than  four  years  after 
making  her  will.  She  bequeathed  ;^io  to  her  nephew  Sir  Peter 
Wyche,  the  son  of  her  brother  the  ambassador.  No  other 
members  of  her  family  are  mentioned  except  "sister  Wyche" 
who  had  forty  shillings  and  Henry  Wyche  (probably  her  brother) 
who  witnessed  the  will.  Erasmus  Harby,  Elizabeth's  son,  suc- 
ceeded to  the  title. 

Of  Anne,  the  eleventh  child  and  fourth  daughter  of  Richard 
Wyche,  senior,  there  is  no  record  except  that  she  married  a  Mr 
Charleton. 

Edward,  the  twelfth  child  and  eighth  son  also  served  "in 
forraigne  and  farre  distant  Regions."  He  was  at  Constantinople 
in  1620  and  is  mentioned  by  Mundy  as  one  of  the  seven 
merchants  who  accompanied  Sir  Paul  Pindar  as  far  as  "Ponto 
Grande'."  He  must  have  been  in  England  in  1625,  when  he 
was  admitted  to  the  freedom  of  the  East  India  and  Levant 
Companies^,  but  he  appears  to  have  returned  to  the  East 
before  1627,  for  he  was  again  at  Constantinople  when  his  brother 
Sir  Peter  arrived  there  in  the  capacity  of  ambassador.  In  1628, 
Edward  went  to  Scio  to  meet  Lady  Wyche,  who  had  come  out 
to  join  her  husband.  On  the  way  back  to  Constantinople,  he 
contracted  the  plague,  and  died  and  was  buried  at  Vrekli^ 

Of  Julius,  ninth  son  and  thirteenth  child  of  Richard  Wyche, 
senior,  there  is  no  record  but  his  will.  On  his  death,  in  1631, 
he  bequeathed  money  to  his  brothers  George,  Henry  and  Edward^ 
to  his  sister  Rebecca,  to  his  brother-in-law  Job  Harby  and  to  the 
children  and  widow  of  his  eldest  brother  Richard. 

Henry,  the  eleventh  son,  married  Dorothy  and  had  two 

children,  Jane  and  William. 

Nathaniel,  the  seventeenth  child  and  youngest  son  of  Richard 
Wyche,  was  closely  connected  with  the    East    India  Company. 


1  See  p.  45  f. 

"^  State  Papers,  Foreign  Archives,  vol.  148,  p.  124. 
•^  Early  Voyages  in  the  Levant  (Covel's  Diary),  p.  277. 
*  Edward,  however,  pre-deceased  Julius.     For  the  will  of  Julius  Wyche,, 
at  Somerset  House,  see  124  St  John. 


THE   WYCHE   FAMILY  165 

He  was  a  member  of  the  Board  of  Directors  for  several  years, 
and,  in  1658,  he  was  appointed  President  of  Surat.  His  tenure 
of  office  was  short,  as  he  died  at  Surat  on  the  23rd  of  May, 
1659,  within  eight  months  of  his  arrival  in  India'. 

Rebecca,  the  eighteenth  child  and  sixth  daughter,  was  un- 
married at  the  time  of  her  mother's  death. 

Mundy's  remark  as  to  the  travels  of  the  Wyche  family  "in 
forraigne  and  farre  distant  Regions"  is  correct  in  so  far  as  six  of 
them  are  concerned.  One  (probably  Thomas)  was  in  Muscovy 
about  1620;  George  was  in  Spain  in  1625;  Peter  and  Edward 
were  both  in  Constantinople  in  1627 ;  James  died  there  in 
i6i8j  and  Nathaniel  was  in  Surat  in  1659.  Of  the  journey- 
ings  of  Richard,  Julius  and  Henry,  unfortunately  no  record  is 
forthcoming. 

Of  the  later  members  of  the  Wyche  family,  Bernard,  grandson 
of  the  ambassador  to  Constantinople,  entered  the  East  India 
Company's  service  and  was  a  merchant  at  Surat.  His  brothers 
Peter  and  George  were  also  merchants  at  Cambrai  and  Pondi- 
cherry  respectively.  With  the  death  of  Sir  Cyril  Wyche,  Baronet, 
in  1756  and  the  extinction  of  the  title,  the  family  seems  to  have 
come  to  an  end. 

^  Factory  Records,  Stirat,  vol.  1. 


APPENDIX    C. 

THE   ROYAL   MERCHANT  AND    CAPTAIN   JOSHUA 
DOWNING!. 

The  Royal  Mercha7it. 

The  Royal  Merchant  was  offered  to  the  Levant  Company  for 
purposes  of  trade  by  one  of  its  members,  Mr  Morris  Abbott^, 
in  August,  1616.  The  proceedings  in  connection  with  this  ship 
are  preserved  in  the  Court  Book  of  the  Levant  Company^  (now 
in  the  Public  Record  Office),  and  are  here  reproduced. 

2  August  1 616.  "Whereas  by  former  Act  of  Court  it  is 
provided  that  no  shipping  shalbe  licensed  to  go  forth  without 
speciall  leave  of  the  Company,  as  in  the  said  Act  is  more  at 
large  expressed,  Forasmuch  as  Mr.  Morris  Abbott  offered  his 
shipp  called  the  Royall  Merchant,  which  was  now  bound  out  for 
Ligorne  and  other  places  of  the  Straights,  that  if  the  Company 
please  they  might  send  goods  in  her  in  that  voyage,  according 
to  their  severall  occasions,  this  Court  entertained  the  motion, 
and  ordered  as  followeth.  First  that  shee  shall  touch  at  Ligorne 
and  there  to  stay  twenty  dayes,  from  thence  to  Zant  and  there 
to  stay  three  dayes.  From  Zant  to  Scanderone  and  there  to 
stay  fifteen  dayes  and  if  neede  require  to  stay  there  thirty  dayes. 
To  unlade  from  thence  to  Cio  and  there  to  stay  five  dayes.  From 
Cio  to  Constantinople  and  there  to  stay  twenty  dayes.  From 
Constantinople  back  to  Cio,  and  there  to  stay  three  dayes. 
From  Cio  to  Scanderone  and  there  to  stay  fifty  dayes  to  take 
her  lading  for  England.  To  paie  fraight  for  mony  one  Chequeen 
uppon  1000  D""*.    To  paie  freight  for  Ligorne  and  Constantinople 

1  See  p.  14. 
"  See  note  i  on  p.  15. 

3  State  Papers,  Foreign  Archives,  vol.  147,  pp.  168,  174  and  179. 
^  The  sign  is  indistinct.      It  is  apparently   D''   and   possibly   stands  for 
Dollars. 


APPENDIX   C.      THE   "ROYAL   MERCHANT"  167 

for  a  bagg  of  pepper  four  D"".  To  paie  fraight  out  and  home, 
for  so  much  as  shalbe  landed  and  laden  at  Scanderone,  11  li.  los. 
per  ton.  The  Shipp  to  carry  fifty  three  men  a  maister  and  a  boy. 
They  that  have  no  fraight  per  charter  partie  are  to  paie  fraight 
homeward  from  Constantinople,  Cio  or  Scanderone  6li.  los.  per 
Ton.  The  same  price  shalbe  paid  by  them  that  have  taken 
tonnage  and  laid  more  then  their  Tonnedge  taken  from  any  of 
the  said  Fortes,  vizt.  61i.  los.  per  ton.  The  shipp  to  carry 
such  bales  as  shalbe  laden  from  Constantinople  by  the  laders 
to  Scanderone  gratis.  The  owners  to  Contract  that  no  wollen 
comoditie  be  carryed  for  Constantinople,  Scio,  or  any  parte  of  the 
arches^  in  their  shipp  either  directlie  or  indirectlie.  According 
to  such  agreement  a  Charter  Partie  is  to  be  made  betwixt  the 
owners  and  laders  for  the  performance  thereof.  Uppon  which 
Conditions,  this  shipp  hath  been  graunted  to  proceed  on  the  said 
voyage  according  to  a  former  Act  made  for  the  restraint  of 
Shipps  without  leave,  which  Act  is  yett  to  continue  in  force  till 
the  Company  see  cause  to  the  contrary.  And  therefore  every 
one  willing  to  lade  in  this  shipp  are  to  sett  downe  in  writing  at 
Mr.  Abbotts  house  under  their  handes  what  Tonnage  they  are 
desirous  to  take  in  this  Shipp." 

II  September  16 16.  "A  draught  of  the  Charter  Partie  of  the 
Marchant  Royall  was  read  at  this  Court  and  Assented  unto,  And 
it  is  ordered  that  a  bond  be  sealed  from  Mr.  Morris  Abbott 
and  the  Master  of  that  Shipp,  Josuah  Downing,  to  Sir  Thomas 
Low^  to  the  use  of  the  Company,  penalty  ;^5oo,  that  no  Cloth 
or  Kersyes  exceeding  the  number  of  Ten  peeces  be  carried  in 
that  shipp  for  Constantinople,  either  directlie  or  indirectlie, 
according  to  the  owners  promise  made  to  the  Company  in 
that  behalf." 

18  December  1616.  "  Ordered ...  that  whereas  the  Shipp 
Royall  Merchannt  was  by  Charter  party  bound  to  go  her  voyage, 
as  high  as  Constantinople,  forasmuch  as  sithence  her  departure 
hence  advertisment  is  come  by  letters  that  there  is  like  to  be 
some  troubles,  hazard  and  danger  in  such  a  course.  It  was 
thought  fitt  that  she  shall  go  no  further  then  Scio,  and  there  to 


^  i.e.  The  Archipelago. 

2  The  father  of  the  Mr  Francis  Lowe  mentioned  by  Mundy  on  p.  45. 


l68  APPENDIX   C.      THE   "ROYAL   MERCHANT" 

Stay  forty  dayes  in  lieu  of  the  Time  shee  was  to  spend  at  ^ 

and  Constantinople,  and  in  going  and  coming  betwixt  those 
places,  to  lade  and  unlade  there  such  goods  and  monyes  as  shee 
is  bound  to  do  by  the  said  Charter  partie.  And  further  that  at 
Scio  every  Particular  lader  shall  take  care  for  the  disposing  of 
the  goods  and  monyes  at  his  owne  charge.  To  which  purpose 
it  is  thought  fitt  and  ordered  that  letters  be  written  by  the 
husband,  to  be  sent  away  by  the  next  Post,  intimating  so  much 
to  the  Ambassador  and  nation  there,  if  they  find  it  convenient 
the  shipp  should  be  staid  at  Cio  for  the  reasons  abovesaid." 

2^  June  1617.  "And  because  the  times  are  dangerous  for 
shipping,  in  respect  of  the  men  of  warre,  and  that  the  Merchant 
Royall  is  not  for  any  thing  yett  knowne  accompanied  with  other 
shipps,  shee  being  a  shipp  of  great  valine.  It  is  ordered,  by  the 
consent  of  the  fraighters  and  owners  of  that  shipp,  that  if  shee 
shall  putt  into  Zant  and  stay  there  above  sixe  dayes  for  the  two 
good  English  Shipps,  at  least  at  the  discretion  of  the  principal 
factors  at  Zant  for  the  joynt  Stock  of  Currants,  who  shall  appoint 
her  to  depart  from  thence  in  Company  of  the  said  shipps  for 
England  as  they  shall  see  cause,  that  then  towardes  her  charges 
of  demourage  in  staying  there  the  fraighters  shall  paie  to  the 
owners  of  the  said  shipp  over  and  above  the  fraight  agreed 
uppon  by  Charter  party  los.  Per  Tonne  uppon  all  Tonnage 
taken  in  her  according  to  the  Charter  partie  as  if  the  same  had 
beene  so  agreed  uppon  at  the  writing  and  ensealing  thereof." 


Captain  Joshua  Downing. 

Captain  Joshua  Downing,  the  Master  of  the  Royall  Mejxhant, 
appears  to  have  made  only  the  one  voyage  to  Constantinople  in 
the  service  of  the  Levant  Company.  There  is  no  record  of  him 
either  before  that  date,  or  for  four  years  subsequent  to  his  return. 
But  from  1621,  until  his  death  in  1630,  he  is  frequently  mentioned 
in  the  Calendars  of  State  Papers,  Domestic  Series,  and  twice  in 
the  Colonial  Series,  East  Indies.  In  162 1,  Downing  was  inspector 
of  cordage  at  Woolwich  and  Deptford.     In  1622,  a  Committee 

1  A  blank  in  the  MS.  here.     Scanderoon  is  probably  meant. 


AND   CAPTAIN   JOSHUA   DOWNING  169 

was  appointed  to  "treat  with  Captain  Joshua  Downing"  about 
the  chief  command  of  the  East  India  Ships.      In  1625,  as  an 
officer  of  the  King's  works  at  Chatham,  he  estimated  the  value 
of  the  "pinnace  Lion's  wJulp,''  and  made  an  Inventory  of  "the 
names  and   former   trades    of  all  the   officers   and    shipkeepers 
belonging   to   the    twenty-nine   vessels    of    the    Navy   riding   at 
Chatham."     He  also  reported  on  "  the  losses  of  the  English  and 
Hollanders"  in  the  storm  on  the  13th  October,      In  1626,  he 
made   out   the   lists   of    men    mustered   aboard   the   Adventure, 
Dreadnought  and  Rainbow,  and  certified  the  defective  condition 
of  the  Great  Sapphire  at  Portsmouth.     He  also  recommended 
three   boatsv/ains    for    promotion,    remarking    that    he   did   not 
"desire   that   any   whom    he    recommended   should   not   be   as 
beneficiall  and  thankfull  to  him  as  any  other."     In  July,  1626, 
Downing  was  acting  as  a  Commissioner  of  the  Fleet  at  Ports- 
mouth.    About  this  time,  he  had  drawn  up  some  "  Notes  on  the 
Navy,"  arranged  under  three  heads.     In  1627,  there  is  evidence 
that  he  was  unpopular.     In  February,  the  Special  Commissioners 
for  inquiring  into  the  state  of  the  Navy  reported  their  inability 
to  complete  the  survey  of  cordage  at  Chatham  owing  to  inter- 
ruptions from  Joshua   Downing,    and,    a   month   later,   Thomas 
Rabenett  complained  of  Captain  Downing's  '■malice."     Downing 
seems  to  have  had  more  on  his  shoulders  than  he  could  manage, 
for   he   wrote   to   the    Clerks   of   the   Council  that   "important 
works  are  carrying  on  at  Chatham  under  very  insufficient  super- 
intendence," that  Mr  Wilson,  the  master  attendant,  was  a  "  willing 
but  aged  and  crazy  man,"  that  he,  Downing,  would  use  his  "  best 
care,"  but  that  he  was  "not  an  Atlas."     In  the  following  year 
his  health  failed.     In  February,  1628,  he  was  "sick-a-bed. ...The 
stores  are  very  barren  of  provisions,  and  works  go  on  slowly  for 
want  of  the  ordinary  pay."     At  the  same  time  he  wrote  to  the 
Treasurer  of  the  Navy  to  know  "whether  the  officers  will  come 
down  and  take  a  survey  of  the  stores  and  provisions,"  so  that 
he  might  "have  his  discharge."     However,  two  months  later,  in 
April,   1628,  he  was  still  at   Chatham,  whence  he  wrote  to  re- 
commend Christopher  Laughlyne  for  a  purser's  place.     In  the 
same  letter,  he  remarked  of  the  porter  of  the  yard  at  Chatham 
that    he   did   not    "conceive   him    to    be   fitting"  for   his    post. 
Whether  Downing  ever  got  his   "discharge"  is  not  clear.      In 
January,  1629,  he  once  more  wrote  from  Chatham  recommending 


170         APPENDIX   C.      CAPTAIN   JOSHUA   DOWNING 

a  purser.  On  the  2nd  March,  1629,  his  will',  dated  ist  January 
of  the  same  year,  was  proved.  He  left  his  son  and  namesake  as 
his  executor,  and  a  daughter,  Martha,  was  also  a  legatee.  In  the 
will,  complaint  is  made  of  "the  great  charge"  Downing  had 
sustained  on  behalf  of  his  nephews  Henry  and  Jasper,  sons  of 
his  "  sister  Scroles."  The  last  reference  to  Downing  is  in  1630, 
when  "Captain  Phineas  Pett  requested  to  have  the  lodgings  at 
Chatham  formerly  enjoyed  by  Captain  Downing." 

^  To  be  found  at  Somerset  House,  catalogued  as  23  Scroope. 


APPENDIX    D. 

THE   LEVANT   COMPANY  AND    ITS   AGENTS   AT 
CONSTANTINOPLE    IN    MUNDY'S   TIME. 

The  Levant  or  Turkey  Company,  incorporated  by  Charter  in 
1 581,  was  the  outcome  of  EngUsh  attempts  to  trade  in  the 
Mediterranean  from  141 3  onwards.  The  great  obstacles  to 
private  enterprise  on  the  shores  of  Southern  Europe  at  that  time 
were  the  danger  of  attack  by  the  dreaded  Barbary  Corsairs  or 
Turkish  pirates,  and  the  consequent  necessity  of  united  effort  in 
any  commercial  undertaking  in  those  regions. 

The  earlier  history  of  the  Company  is  briefly  as  follows.  In 
1579,  Queen  Elizabeth  empowered  three  English  merchants, 
William  Harebone,  Edward  Ellis  and  Richard  Staple,  to  use 
their  endeavours  to  obtain  from  Sultan  Murad  III.  social  and 
commercial  privileges  for  the  English  nation.  Their  mission  was 
successful,  and  in  1581,  as  stated  above,  letters  patent  were 
granted  to  "The  Company  of  Merchants  of  the  Levant,"  which 
then  consisted  of  only  five  members.  The  first  resident  am- 
bassador from  England  to  Constantinople  on  their  behalf  was 
Sir  Edward  Barton,  who  held  that  post  from  1588  to  his  death  in 
1597.  In  1593,  during  his  term  of  office,  the  Company  was 
reconstituted  for  a  period  of  twelve  years,  with  the  title  of 
"Governor  and  Company  of  Merchants  of  the  Levant."  His 
successor  was  Henry  Lello  (1597 — 1607)  in  whose  time  the 
charter  was  renewed  in  perpetuity  by  James  I.,  the  Company 
being  thenceforth  known  as  "the  Governor  and  Company  of 
Merchants  of  England  trading  to  the  Levant  Seas."  The  first 
ambassador  at  Constantinople  under  the  new  and  extended 
charter  was  Sir  Thomas  Glover  (1607 — 161 1),  who  was  succeeded 
by  Paul  Pindar,  Mundy's  patron. 


1/2      APPENDIX   D.      THE   LEVANT   COMPANY  AND   ITS 

The  management  of  the  Levant  Company  was  vested  in  a 
Court  of  Directors,  but  it  differed  from  the  East  India  Company 
in  that  it  was  not  a  Joint  Stock  Company.  Every  man  under 
twenty-six  years  of  age  paying  £,2^,  and  over  that  age  paying 
;^5o,  was  admitted  a  member  and  could  then  trade  on  his  own 
account.  The  "  Governor "  at  the  time  of  Mundy's  journey  to 
Constantinople  was  Sir  Thomas  Low,  the  father  of  the  "  Mr. 
Francis  Lowe"  who  is  mentioned  as  one  of  the  English  merchants 
residing  at  Galata  in  1620'. 

The  Company  progressed  steadily  for  a  long  period,  and  the 
account  given  by  Sir  John  Chardin,  from  observations  during 
his  travels  in  1672,  shows  the  extent  of  its  advance  in  the  first 
hundred  years  and  the  system  of  trade  then  prevailing.  His 
information  is  valuable  as  it  was  acquired  on  the  spot.  Chardin 
writes^: — "The  English  drive  a  great  Trade  at  Smyrna,  and  over 
all  the  Levant.  This  Trade  is  driv'n  by  a  Royal  Company  setled 
at  London ;  which  is  govern'd  after  a  most  prudent  manner,  and 
therefore  cannot  fail  of  success.  It  has  stood  almost  these 
hundred  Years,  being  first  Confirm'd  towards  the  middle  of 
Queen  Elizabeth's  Raign.  A  Raign  famous  for  having,  among 
other  Things,  giv'n  Life  to  several  Trading  Companies,  particu- 
larly those  of  Hamborough,  Russia,  Greenland,  the  East-Indies 
and  Turkic,  all  which  remain  to  this  Day.  Trade  was  then  in 
its  Infancy ;  and  there  is  no  greater  Mark  of  the  Ignorance  of 
those  Times,  in  reference  to  Countries,  though  but  a  little  remote, 
then  the  Association  which  those  Merchants  made :  for  they 
joyn'd  several  together  in  one  Body,  for  mutual  Conduct  and 
Assistance.  That  Company  which  relates  to  the  Turkish  Trade 
is  of  a  particular  sort :  For  it  is  not  a  Society,  where  every  one 
puts  in  a  Sum  for  one  General  and  United  Stock :  It  is  a  Body 
which  has  nothing  in  Common,  but  a  peculiar  Grant  and  Privi- 
ledge  to  Trade  into  the  Levant.  It  assumes  to  it  self  the  Name 
of  The  Regulated  Company.  None  are  admitted  into  it,  but  .Sons 
of  Merchants,  or  such  as  have  serv'd  an  Apprenticeship  to  the 
Trade,  which  in  England  is  for  Seven  Years.  They  give  to  be 
admitted  into  the  Society  about  an  Hundred  and  Twenty  Crowns, 
f  under  the  Age  of  Twenty  Five  Years  :   and  double  if  above 

1  See  p.  45. 

^  Sir  John  Chardin,  Tj'avels  into  Persia,  etc.,  pp.  4 — 6. 


AGENTS   AT   CONSTANTINOPLE   IN    MUNDY  S   TIME      1 73 

that    Age.     The   Company   never   commits   to   any   one   single 
Person  their  Power,  nor  the  sole  Management  of  their  Affairs, 
but  manage  their  Business  among  themselves  by  the  Plurality  of 
Voices.     So  that  who  has  sufificient  to  drive  a  Trade  that  will 
bear  an  Imposition  of  Eight  Crowns,  has  as  good  a  Vote  as  he 
that  Trades  for  an  Hundred  Thousand.     This  Assembly,  thus 
Democratical,  sends  out  Ships,  Levies  Taxes  upon  all  their  Com- 
modities, presents  the  Ambassador  whom  the  King  sends  to  the 
Port,   Elects  two  Consuls,   the  one  for  Smyrna,   the   other   for 
Aleppo,  and  prevents  the  sending  of  Goods  which  are  not  thought 
proper  for  the  Levant.     It  consists  at  present  of  about  Three 
Hundred  Merchants,  besides  that  they  bring  up  in  Turkic  a  great 
number  of  young  Persons  well  descended,  who  learn  the  Trade 
upon  the  Place  it  self.     This  Trade  amounts  to  about  Five  or  Six 
Hundred   Thousands    Pounds   yearly,   and   consists   in   Cloaths 
made  in   England,   and  Silver  which  they  carry  as  well  out  of 
England,  as  out  of  Spain,  France  and  Italy  :  In  exchange  of  which 
they  bring  back  Wool,  Cotton- Yarn,  Galls,  Raw  Silk  and  Wov'n, 
together  with  some  other  Commodities  of  less  value.     Now  the 
Company,    finding   that    Malice   which    Interest   begets   among 
Persons  of  the  same  Profession,  would  in  time  be  the  Ruine  of 
their  Society,   by  Enhancing  or  Loring  the  price  of  Goods  on 
purpose  to  under-sell  one  another;    and  that  the  same   Malice 
causes  the  Merchants  to  be  at  variance  with  the  Consuls,  the 
Consuls  with  the  Ambassador ;  (which  is  the  reason  that  many 
times  where  Expences  are  requisite,  an  unseasonable  Stinginess 
in  the  Ambassador  causes  great  Impositions  and  Fines,  and  other 
severe  Vexations  to  the  Nation)    The   Company,    I    say,    fore- 
seeing these  Mischiefs,  have  prudently  provided  a  Remedy  ta 
prevent  'em.     For  the  English  Cloth,  of  which  they  send  into 
Turkic  about  Twenty  Thousand  Pieces  yearly,  and  the  chiefest 
part  of  the  rest  of  their  Merchandize  is  sent  to  the  Factors  with 
a  Bill  or  Invoice  of  the  Price  at  what  they  are  bound  to  sell ; 
together  with  another  Bill  of  the  Price  certain  for  those  Goods 
which  they  give  order  to  be  bought ;  and  by  that  means  it  never 
happens  that  the  Merchants  receive  any  Damage  in  the  Prospect, 
or  Design  of  their  Profit.     For  the  prevention  of  these  and  other 
disorders,  the  Company  gives  a  Pension  to  the  EngUsh  Ambassa- 
dor,   who   resides  at  the    Port ;    to   the    Consuls   and   all   their 
principal  Officers,  as  the  Minister,  the  Chancellor,  the  Secretary, 
the  Interpreters,  the  Janisaries  and  others.     Which  Officers  have 


174      APPENDIX   D.      THE   LEVANT   COMPANY   AND   ITS 

no  Power  to  Levy  any  Taxes  or  Sums  of  Money  upon  the 
Merchandize,  whether  under  the  pretence  of  Duties,  or  Presents, 
or  any  other  extraordinary  Expences.  But  when  any  thing  of 
that  Nature  is  to  be  done,  they  give  Notice  to  the  Deputies  of 
the  Nation,  who  are  Two  Persons  appointed  to  Act  in  the  Name 
of  the  rest.  These  Deputies  examine  and  debate  with  the 
Ambassador,  or  the  Consul,  What  is  fit  to  be  given,  What 
Journeys  are  necessary  to  be  made  to  the  Port,  and  what  is  there 
to  be  transacted  :  Not  but  that  the  Ambassador  or  Consul  may 
not  Act  of  themselves,  but  they  observe  that  method  to  acquit 
and  justifie  themselves;  and  sometimes  upon  Emergent  and 
Extraordinary  Affairs  they  assemble  the  whole  Body  of  the 
Nation.  So  soon  as  they  are  come  to  a  Result,  the  Deputies 
give  Notice  to  the  Treasurer  to  provide  what  is  necessary,  whether 
it  be  Money,  Toys  or  Curiosities.  This  Treasurer  also  is  setl'd 
by  the  Company,  and  provides  Money  for  every  thing,  discharges 
punctually  all  manner  of  Charges  and  Expences,  and  pays  exactly 
the  Wages  of  every  Officer.  Thus  the  Ambassador  and  Consuls 
have  no  more  to  do  but  only  to  mind  the  Security  of  the  English 
Nation,  and  the  good  of  Trade,  without  being  incumber'd  and 
diverted  by  their  own  Interests.  There  are  also  many  other 
excellent  Regulations  and  Orders  for  the  support  of  their  Trade 
in  the  Levant ;  by  which  means  they  carry  it  on  with  Honour  and 
Profit  beyond  any  of  their  Neighbors." 

But  about  a  century  and  a  half  later  Hobhouse\  who  visited 
Constantinople  in  1810,  has  a  very  different  story  to  tell.  He 
says  : — "The  resident  members  of  the  Levant  Company  at  Pera, 
have  lately  much  diminished  in  numbers... they  do  not  possess 
more  than  five  or  six  mercantile  establishments... the  number  of 
persons  protected  by  the  ambassador  does  not  in  the  whole 
amount  to  one  hundred." 

In  161 7',  when  Mundy  sailed  in  the  Roy  all  Merchant  to  Scan- 
deroon  the  Levant  Company  was  still  struggling  to  obtain  a  firm 
foothold  in  the  Ottoman  dominions,  and,  during  the  three  years 
that  he  remained  in  Constantinople ^  he  must  have  heard  some 
of  the  many  and  bitter  complaints  that  the  English  merchants 
had  at  that  time  to  make  of  their  treatment  at  the  hands  of 
Turkish  officials. 

1  Hobhouse,  A  Journey  through  Albania,  vol.  II.  p.  828. 

^  See  pp.  14  and  166 — 168.  ^  See  pp.  21 — 23. 


AGENTS   AT   CONSTANTINOPLE   IN    MUNDYS   TIME      1 75 


Paid  Pindar,  Ambassador  at  Constantinople,    161 1  — 1619. 

When  Mundy  reached  Constantinople  with  James  Wyche,  in 
16 1 7,  he  found  Paul  Pindar  acting  as  ambassador  to  the  Porte  in 
the  interests  of  the  Levant  Company.  Pindar  had  succeeded 
Sir  Thomas  Glover  in  161 1,  and  his  letter,  notifying  his  arrival  at 
the  Ottoman  capital,  was  received  by  the  Court  of  Directors  in 
London  on  the  20th  December  in  that  year.  In  this  letter  Pindar 
seems  to  have  applied  for  an  increase  of  pay,  for,  on  the  13th 
January,  161 3,  the  following  passage  occurs  in  the  Proceedings 
of  the  Court,  "  Mr.  Pindar  Embassadours  desire  of  allowance  for 
Extraordinary  rejected  and  wrote  him  that  [he]  Confines  himself 
in  such  a  Competent  Limit  of  Expences  as  their  former  allowance 
may  be  Sufficient  to  maintain  him '." 

In  1615,  Pindar  wrote  to  the  Court  making  various  requests, 
and  among  other  favours  he  desired  the  payment  of  certain 
money  due  to  him  in  June  of  the  previous  year.  The  minute  on 
this  letter  was  as  follows: — "A  Generall  Court... 21st  June  1615... 
A  letter  from  Mr.  Paul  Pindar  Ambassadour  at  Constantinople 
dated  the  22th  of  Aprill  was  now  read  and  considered  of  desireing 
to  be  free  from  impositions  after  the  example  of  his  Predecessor, 
praying  also  a  sufficient  Preacher  may  be  sent  over  in  place  of 
Mr,  Foord  lately  returned  thence  ;  and  desireing  some  course  may 
be  thought  on  to  prevent  the  extraordinary  stretching  and  over 
drawing  of  cloth  tending  to  losse  in  that  Comodity  and  disrepu- 
tation thereof  in  those  partes.  Whereuppon  it  was  ordered  that 
care  should  be  taken  to  provide  for  those  buisinesses  and  an 
answere  to  his  letters  returned  with  all  convenient  expedition. 
And  whereas  also  the  said  Ambassadour  made  request  for  paiment 
of  his  monyes  due  by  the  Company  at  Midsummer  last  and 
otherwise  for  interest  for  forbearance,  because  he  is  desirous  to 
employ  them  for  his  advantage  at  Constantinople  This  Court 
thought  fitt  in  respect  they  were  out  of  Cash  for  [the]  present  to 
intreat  Mr.  Raph  Pindar^  brother  to  the  Ambassadour  who  was 
present  at  this  meeting  to  stay  till  Michaelmas  next  uppon  the 

^  State  Papers,  Foreign  Archives,  vol.  147. 

-  See  p.  134.  Ralph  Pindar  was  father  of  Paul  Pindar,  junior,  who  was 
therefore  nephew  to  Sir  Paul  Pindar,  and  not  his  cousin,  as  stated  by  Mundy 
on  p.  41. 


176      APPENDIX   D.      THE   LEVANT   COMPANY   AND   ITS 

same  condition  as  formerly  which  he  consented  unto  in  hope  of 
satisfaction  at  the  time\"  Pindar  was  evidently  piqued  at  the 
Court's  want  of  generosity  towards  him  and  at  their  refusal  to  allow 
him  to  trade  on  his  own  account,  for  in  June,  16 16,  he  petitioned 
to  be  recalled,  alleging  that  his  health  could  no  longer  bear  the 
strain  of  his  duties.  The  year  16 15  had  also  been  one  of  trouble 
for  trade  in  the  Levant,  owing  to  the  depredations  of  pirates,  and 
a  serious  encounter  between  them  and  the  Company's  ships, 
which  occurred  about  that  time,  may  have  intensified  Pindar's 
wish  to  be  relieved  of  his  onerous  position.  The  Court  of 
Directors,  however,  realized  that  their  interests  were  being  well 
looked  after,  and  had  no  desire  to  lose  Pindar's  services,  for  we 
read  in  their  Proceedings  of  the  nth  September,  16 16,  and  9th 
January,  1617,  as  follows: — "A  letter  from  the  Ambassadour 
Mr.  Pindar  was  read  at  this  Court,  dated  in  Pera  the  15  th.  and 
29th.  of  June,  where  he  signified  to  the  Company  that  he  would 
not  continue  his  place  of  Ambassadour  by  reason  of  the  indis- 
position of  his  body  &c.,  whereof  he  prayeth  the  Company  to 
take  notice,  whereuppon  this  Court  have  intreated  Mr.  Nicholas 
Leate. .  .to  conceave  a  letter  in  answere  thereof  to  the  Ambassadour 
requesting  him  to  continue  his  place  for  a  yeare  or  two  longer, 
as  a  request  from  the  whole  Company^ — It  was  ordered  and 
thought  fitt,  that  in  the  letter  to  Mr.  Pindar  the  Ambassadour,  he 
should  be  required  to  stay  at  Constantinople  untill  the  troubles 
there  were  past  over  and  the  affaires  of  the  Company  settled  to 
some  good  purpose,  as  best  knowing  out  of  his  experience  how 
to  manage  all  thinges  for  the  behoofe  of  this  Society®." 

That  the  question  of  the  money  was  the  chief  cause  of 
Pindar's  resignation  is  clear  from  the  minute  on  his  answer  to  the 
Court's  request.  On  the  26th  March,  161 7,  "A  letter  from  the 
Ambassadour  at  Constantinople  was  read  at  this  Court  dated  the 
4th  of  January  wherein  he  relateth  the  ill  Termes  our  Nation 
standes  in  there,  and  that  hee  is  content  to  continue  there  at  the 
Companyes  request  till  the  first  of  March  next,  but  not  to  stand 
to  his  former  allowance.  Whereuppon  it  was  ordered  that  [a] 
letter   be  written    him,    that   towardes   the    maintenance   of  his 


^  State  Papers,  Foreign  Archives,  vol.  147,  p.  152  a. 
^  Ibid.,  vol.  147,  p.  169.  ^  Ibid.,  vol.  147,  p.  T75. 


AGENTS   AT   CONSTANTINOPLE   IN   MUNDY'S   TIME      177 

charge,  the  Company  do  appoint  him  [?]  4000 '  Chequins  for  the 
yeare  ensuing  to  be  taken  upp  quarterlie  to  saie  [?]  1000'  Chequins 
per  quarter  per  Exchange,  on  any  of  the  Company  at  5^.  per 
dollar  of  80  Aspers,  at  30  dayes  sight,  And  if  the  mony  be  not 
paid  here  within  a  Monneth  after  it  is  due  the  partie  to  whom 
the  said  bills  are  payable  shall  have  interest  allowed  him  after  the 
said  bills  are  paid^." 

Mundy,  who  reached  Constantinople  early  in  1617^,  says  that 
"Heere  the  English  Merchants  passe  verie  Commodiouseley*." 
The  Ambassador,  however,  thought  differently.  Indeed,  Sultan 
Ahmad's  treatment  of  the  members  of  the  Company  seems  to 
have  goaded  their  representative  to  desperation,  for  at  a  Court 
held  on  the  24th  September,  1617,  was  read  "A  letter  from 
Mr.  Paul  Pindar  Ambassadour  in  Constantinople  dated  the  3d  of 
July  last,  and  brought  by  Mr.  Kentish... wherein  he  amplie  related 
...the  little  esteeme  there  had  of  his  Majesties  letter  sent  by 
Mr.  Kentish  and  of  himselfe,  and  the  whole  Nation  there,  terming 
them  pirates  deserving  to  be  punished,  for  redresse  whereof  his 
opinion  is  that  the  Company  do  Procure  the  Ambassadours 
revocation,  and  not  to  send  any  Ambassadour,  Agent  or 
shipping  \" 

Later  on,  when  the  "  Generall  Court  of  Election  "  assembled 
on  the  4th  February,  16 18,  it  was  decided  to  abolish  the  office  of 
Ambassador  at  Constantinople.  "At  this  Court  which  was 
especially  assembled  for  the  yearely  election  of  officers,  according 
to  the  words  and  warrant  of  His  Majesties  Charter,  Mr.  Deputy 
(before  the  entrance  into  that  buisines)  aquainted  the  Company 
that  following  the  direction  of  a  former  Act  of  Court,  himself  and 
some  other  Committees  authorised  for  that  purpose,  had  attended 
the  Lords  of  the  Counsell  for  letters  to  recall  home  Mr.  Pindar 
the  Ambassadour  at  Constantinople,  and  to  leave  in  his  place, 
some  such  Persons  of  sufficiency  and  discretion  as  this  Society  or 
the  said  Committes  should  choose  and  nominate  unto  him  to 
remaine  Agent  there,  untill  his  Majestic  should  otherwise  dispose 
of    that   employment   which    said    letters   were   now    read    and 


^  The  figures  in  the  original  are  not  clearly  legible. 

2  State  Papers,  Foreign  Archives,  vol.  147,  p.  178. 

^  See  pp.  14  and  21.  *  See  p.  22. 

^  State  Papers,  Foreign  Archives,  vol.  147,  p.  182. 


178     APPENDIX   D,      THE   LEVANT   COMPANY   AND   ITS 

approved  of,  bearing  date  the  25th  of  January;  yett  for  some 
reasons,  the  name  of  the  said  Agent  so  to  be  established  was 
thought  fitt  and  consented  unto  at  this  court  to  be  concealed  for 
a  time  for  better  consequence  in  the  affaires  of  the  Company 
and  therefore  his  name  not  to  be  published  till  an  other 
opportunity.  Meane  while  the  said  letters  and  others  from  this 
Court  are  to  be  signed  and  sent  away  by  the  next  post  and  the 
whole  carriage  of  this  buisines  was  well  approved  of."  The 
death  of  Ahmad,  in  November,  161 7,  however,  changed  the  com- 
plexion of  affairs  for  the  English,  and  three  months  later,  on  the 
deposition  of  Mustafa,  his  successor,  and  the  accession  of  Osman^, 
brighter  days  dawned  for  the  members  of  the  Levant  Company 
and  the  question  of  abolishing  the  office  of  Ambassador  at  Con- 
stantinople was  allowed  to  drop. 

Pindar  remained  on  in  office,  but  in  May,  161 9,  when  the 
Company's  resources  were  again  at  a  low  ebb,  the  Court  decided 
"  that  letters  may  be  procured  from  the  king  for  revocation  of 
Mr.  Paul  Pindar  the  now  Ambassadour  at  Constantinople  in 
respect  of  the  great  charge  he  putt  the  Companie  unto,  and  his 
owne  losses  of  health  and  other  impediments  and  prejudice  in 
his  private  Estate^."  This  time  Pindar's  recall  was  confirmed. 
He  remained  in  Constantinople  until  the  arrival  of  his  successor, 
and  started  on  his  homeward  journey  on  the  6th  May,  1620*. 
He  travelled  overland  and  arrived  in  London  on  the  i6th  Septem- 
ber l  On  the  loth  October  he  presented  himself  before  the  Court 
of  the  Levant  Company  and  on  the  12  th  April,  1621,  his  accounts 
were  "  considered  and  reported  on." 

After  this,  Pindar's  connection  with  the  Company  practically 
ceased.  The  story  of  his  later  years  has  been  chronicled  in  the 
Dictionary  of  National  Biography^  but  two  statements  in  that  work 
regarding  Pindar,  during  the  years  1611 — 1620,  require  correction. 
Firstly,  he  is  supposed  to  have  returned  to  England  about  i6i6,  but 
that  he  remained  in  Constantinople  for  "  eight  yeares  and  eight 
monethes'*"  consecutively,  that  is  until  1620,  as  Mundy  relates,  is 
clear   from    the  extracts   from  the    Court  Books  of  the  Levant 


^  State  Papers,  Foreign  Archives,  vol.  148,  p-  7  a.  ^  See  p.  21. 

^  State  Papers,  Foj-eign  Archives,  vol.  148,  p.  27.  *  See  p.  41. 

5  Seep.  135 f. 


AGENTS   AT   CONSTANTINOPLE   IN    MUNDY'S   TIME      1 79 

Company  quoted  above.  Secondly,  on  the  authority  of  Nichols', 
and  Philipot^  Pindar  is  said  to  have  been  knighted  during  a 
royal  progress  in  July  and  August,  1620.  But  it  is  evident  from 
Mundy's  journal,  that  he  did  not  reach  Dover  until  the 
13th  September  of  1620^  Therefore,  the  date  of  his  knight- 
hood as  given  in  the  Dictionary  is  obviously  wrong,  though  he 
undoubtedly  became  Sir  Paul  shortly  after  his  return  from  Con- 
stantinople. 


Sir  John  Eyre,  Pindar's  successor  at  Consta?ittnopk, 
1619 — 1621. 

Of  Sir  John  Eyre,  Pearson  writes^,  he  "is,  as  far  as  I  am 
aware,  unknown  to  fame."  This  may  be  correct  with  regard  to 
his  earlier  career,  but  Sir  John  certainly  made  himself  unpleasantly 
notorious  while  in  the  service  of  the  Levant  Company.  He  was 
the  son  of  Sir  William  Eyre  of  Great  Chauldfield,  Peccasod,  in 
the  county  of  Wilts^  In  16 19  he  was  recommended  by  the 
Marquis  of  Buckingham  to  supersede  Pindar  as  ambassador  at 
Constantinople,  and  the  matter  was  taken  into  consideration  at  a 
"Generall  Court"  held  on  the  7th  May: — "Whereas  this  Court 
was  more  especiallie  assembled  to  read  and  consider  of  a  letter 
from  the  Marquis  of  Buckingham  directed  to  Mr.  Governor  and 
Companie  bearing  date  the  13th  of  Aprill  last  and  to  frame  an 
answere  thereunto,  beeing  in  recomendation  of  Sir  John  Eyres  to 
be  appointed  Ambassadour  to  Constantinople  if  any  were  sent  to 
that  place  and  Employment  intimating  also  the  Kings  pleasure 
and  desire  therein.  The  buisines  was  now  discussed  of  at  large 
and  though  the  said  Sir  John  Eyres  was  said  to  be  an  able  and 
sufficient  Person  to  undertake  such  a  service  yett  this  Court 
finding  the  Estate  of  the  Company  to  be  utterly  unable  for  the 
present  to  beare  the  Charge  of  an  Ambassadour  did  resolve  to 
intreat  none  at  all  might  be  sent  by  them,  as  the  Constitution  of 

^  Progresses  of  James  /.,  iv.  611. 

2  A  Perfect  Collection  or  Catalogue  of  All  Knights  Batchelaurs  made  by 
Kijig  James,  &c. 

^  See  p.  134. 

*  Chaplains  of  the  Levant  Company,  p.  41. 

^  Wills  at  Somerset  House,  138  Harvey. 


l80      APPENDIX   D.      THE   LEVANT   COMPANY   AND   ITS 

their  affaires  now  stand,  but  rather  to  have  leave  to  have  an  Agent 
at  Constantinople  untill  such  time  as  this  Societie  shall  grow  out 
of  debt.  Whereuppon  it  was  ordered  that  a  letter  should  be 
returned  to  the  lord  Marquis  not  onely  to  beseech  his  lordship  to 
moove  his  Majestie  the  Company  might  be  spared  in  the  course 
intended  by  Sir  John  Eyres,  untill  they  are  better  able  to  hearken 
to  the  Charge  of  such  an  Employment  as  he  desires  at  which 
time  he  shalbe  putt  in  nomination... \"  The  Court's  objections 
to  an  Ambassador  on  the  score  of  expense  were  of  no  avail  and 
Buckingham  insisted  on  the  preferment  of  his  nominee.  It  is 
probable  that  the  royal  favourite  was  under  some  obligation  either 
to  Sir  John  Eyre  or  to  his  family  and  desired  to  pay  his  debt  at 
the  expense  of  the  Company.  It  is  difficult  to  find  any  other 
explanation  for  the  pressure  exerted  to  advance  an  individual  who 
was  apparently  quite  unfitted  for  so  delicate  a  post.  The  office  of 
ambassador  at  Constantinople  was  a  position  full  of  difficulty, 
embarrassment,  and  occasionally  of  danger.  It  needed  a  man 
possessed  of  an  equal  amount  of  energy  and  tact,  in  addition  to 
an  intimate  knowledge  of  the  customs  and  prejudices  of  the 
Turks.  It  behoved  the  ambassador,  while  scrupulously  main- 
taining the  rights  of  his  country,  to  use  the  greatest  moderation 
and  not  to  resort  to  menace  save  in  the  last  extremity.  For  such 
an  office,  Buckingham's  candidate  was  eminently  unfitted,  and  his 
persistence  in  forcing  the  appointment  on  the  Company  only 
brought  about  disastrous  results  and  lowered  the  prestige  of  the 
English  at  Constantinople. 

On  the  I  St  July,  1619,  the  Court  reluctantly  gave  up  their 
opposition  to  the  re-appointment  of  an  ambassador  and  accepted 
the  inevitable  with  apparent  willingness.  It  was  agreed,  "  for  as 
much  as  his  Majestie  had  declared  himselfe  for  the  choice  of  the 
Person  that  he  wished  might  be  elected  namely  either  Sir  Thomas 
Glover^  or  Sir  John  Eyres  leaving  both  to  the  Companies  Con- 
sideration, as  appeared  by  letters  from  his  highnes  dated  27  th  of 
June,  which  was  read  at  this  present,  with  respectful  observation. 
The  Court  now  accordinglie  proceeded  to  the  choice  desired  first 
calling  Sir  John  Eyres  to  clear  some  doubts  or  aspersions,  who 


^  State  Papers,  Foreign  Archives,  vol.  148,  p.  27. 

^  He  had  already  filled  the  post  of  ambassador  at  Constantinople  for  four 
years.     See  p.  171. 


AGENTS   AT   CONSTANTINOPLE    IN    MUNDY'S   TIME      l8l 

gave  such  satisfaction  to  all  points  propounded  as  in  humble 
Conformitie  to  his  Majesties  pleasure  and  other  Considerations 
he  was  with  an  unanime  consent  of  the  whole  Companie  chosen 
Ambassadour  and  was  made  free  of  the  same'."  At  the  same 
Court,  a  Committee  was  appointed  "to  meete  and  treate  with 
Sir  John  Eyres  about  his  Establishment,  according  to  former 
presidents."  On  the  5th  August,  it  was  agreed  that  Sir  John 
Eyre's  household  goods  should  be  sent  to  Constantinople  on  the 
Eagle^. 

The  ambassador's  unfitness  for  his  office  showed  itself  almost 
immediately.  His  letter  to  the  Company  in  September,  1620, 
written  shortly  after  his  arrival,  gave  great  offence,  and  led  to  a 
petition  being  drawn  up  by  "  the  Merchants  trading  to  the  Levant " 
to  the  Privy  Council  "praying  consideration  of  letters"  to  the 
Court  from  Sir  John  Eyre^.  He  quarrelled  with  the  English 
residents,  was  unpopular  with  the  Turks,  and  failed  to  inspire 
either  respect  or  confidence.  In  April,  162 1,  he  sent  home  a 
declaration  by  the  merchants  of  Constantinople  of  their  refusal 
to  pay  money  demanded  by  him,  but  if  he  expected  support 
from  the  Court,  he  was  greatly  mistaken,  as  the  Directors  were 
probably  glad  of  an  excuse  to  be  rid  of  the  unwanted  agent 
foisted  on  them  by  Buckingham.  At  any  rate,  they  made 
use  of  the  various  complaints  of  Eyre's  conduct  to  summarily 
recall  him.  Mr  John  Chapman  was  sent  to  Constantinople  at 
the  end  of  162 1,  with  orders  to  take  charge  of  the  embassy  until 
the  arrival  of  Sir  Thomas  Roe,  Eyre's  successor. 

On  his  return  to  England,  Sir  John  Eyre  was  charged  with 
extorting  ;^3ooo  more  than  his  due  from  the  English  at  Con- 
stantinople, and  the  Court  further  declared  that  "his  extortions 
and  ill  speeches  abroad  have  well  nigh  overthrown  this  trade." 
Eyre's  defence  was  that  the  Court  had  agreed  to  pay  him  5000 
sequins  a  year  while  at  Constantinople  and  half  a  year's  salary  in 
advance,  on  condition  that  he  made  no  claim  on  consulage 
moneys.  He  urged  that,  not  having  received  his  allowance  within 
the  stipulated  time,  he  had  seized  the  consulage  moneys  to  re- 
imburse himself.  The  Court  desired  restitution  of  the  surplus 
amount  that  the  ambassador  had  thus  acquired.     The  matter  was 

1  State  Papers,  Foreign  Archives,  vol.  148,  p.  31  a. 

2  Ibid.,  p.  41  a.  *  Ibid.,  Tui-key,  vol.  7. 


1 82        APPENDIX   D.      THE   LEVANT   COMPANY,   ETC. 

referred  to  the  Privy  Council,  when  Buckingham's  influence 
probably  procured  the  decision  that,  as  Sir  John  Eyre  had 
"  suffered  much  disgrace  and  been  recalled  two  years  before  his 
time,"  he  should  be  allowed  to  retain  the  surplus  money  on 
condition  of  dropping  all  future  claims'. 

The  office  of  ambassador  under  the  Levant  Company  appears 
to  have  been  Sir  John  Eyre's  first  and  last  public  appointment. 
He  died  eighteen  years  later,  in  1639.  In  his  will  he  declared 
that  his  "whole  estate  besides  my  howsehold  stuffe  is  but  twoe 
hundred  and  fiefty  poundes  in  money  which  is  in  my  Iron  Chest 
at  London."  He  left  this  small  property  to  his  nephew,  Edward 
Eyre^. 

■*  Calendar  of  State  Papers,  Domestic  Series,  June,  1622. 
^  Wills  at  Somerset  House,  138  Harvey. 


APPENDIX    E. 


CONSTANTINOPLE  IN  THE  SEVENTEENTH  CENTURY. 

(Extracts  from  the  writings  of  Grimston,  Gainsford 
AND  Sandys'.) 

I.     Edward  Grimstoris  Description  of  Constantinople^. 

This  Citie^  is  situated  upon  a  point  of  firme  Land  advanced 
into  the  channell  which  comes  from  Pontus  Euxinus,  or  the 
blacke  Sea,  which  Geographers  call  the  Bosphorus  of  Thrace. 
It  is  watred  of  three  parts  by  the  Sea :  towards  the  North  by  a 
Gulfe  or  Arme  of  the  Sea,  called  the  Home,  which  the  Bosphorus 
thrusts  into  Europe,  and  makes  the  Haven  of  Constantinople  the 
goodliest,  the  deepest  and  the  most  commodious  in  Europe. 
Towards  the  East  it  is  watred  by  the  extremetie  of  the  channell 
or  Bosphorus ;  on  the  South  by  the  waves  of  the  Propontique 
Sea,  and  upon  the  South  it  hath  the  firme  Land  of  Thrace.     The 

^  See  p.  25,  note  3,  p.  27,  note  4,  and  p.  30,  note  2. 

^  The  extracts  that  follow  are  taken  from  Edward  Grimston's  translation 
of  Michel  Baudier's  History  of  the  Iinperiall  Estate  of  the  Grand  Seigneurs. 
Michel  Baudier,  who  was  born  in  Languedoc  and  died  circ.  1645,  was  the 
author  of  several  historical  works,  all  written  in  a  heavy  verbose  style.  His 
Histoire  ghierale  dit  serail  et  de  la  cour  de  Fempereiir  des  Ttircs  was  published 
in  Paris  in  1626.  For  the  full  title  of  the  English  version  of  the  work,  see 
note  I  on  p.  25.  There  is  a  sub-title  which  runs.  The  History  of  the  Serrail, 
and  of  the  Court  of  the  Gravid  Seigneur,  Etnperour  of  the  Turks.  Wherein 
is  Seene  the  Image  of  the  Othoman  Greatnesse.  A  Table  of  humane  passions, 
and  the  Examples  of  the  inconstant  prosperities  of  the  Cozcrt.  Translated  out 
of  Frefich  by  Edward  Grinieston  Serjeant  at  Armes.  The  book  contains  191 
quarto  pages.  Bound  up  with  it  is,  The  History  of  the  Court  of  the  King  of 
China  Written  in  French  by  the  Seigneur  Michael  Baudier  of  Languedoc. 
Translated  by  E.  G.  1635.  The  two  books  are  dedicated  by  Grimston  to  his 
"Worthy  kinsman,  Sir  Harbottel  Grimeston  Knight  and  Baronet."  Of  Sir 
Harbottle  Grimston,  the  translators  nephew,  there  is  an  account  in  the  Diet, 
of  Nat.  Biog. 

^  For  Mundy's  abstract  of  Grimston's  remarks  on  Constantinople,  see 
pp.  25—27. 


1 84  APPENDIX   E.      CONSTANTINOPLE   IN   THE 

form  is  Triangular,  whereof  the  largest  side  is  that  towards  the 
Serrail,  which  lookes  to  the  Sea  towards  the  seven  Towers \  and 
its  vast  circuit  contains  about  five  leagues  :  The  wals  are  of  an 
extraordinary  height,  with  two  false  Brayes  towards  the  Land\ 
and  inclose  seven  Hils  within  it.  The  first  serves  as  a  Theatre 
to  the  Imperiall  Palace  of  the  Prince,  where  it  is  commodiously 
and  proudly  seated :  The  last  lookes  upon  the  extremity  of  the 
farthest  parts  of  the  Towne  opposite  to  this,  and  upon  the  way 
which  leads  to  Andrinopolis  by  Land.  But  betwixt  the  third  and 
the  fourth^  where  a  Valley  doth  extend  it  selfe  called  the  great,  is 
an  Aqueduct  of  rare  structure,  which  Constantine  caused  to  be 
drawne  seven  leagues  from  the  Citie,  and  Solyman  the  Second 
advanced  it  two  Leagues  beyond,  and  increased  the  current  of 
water  in  so  great  abundance,  as  they  doe  serve  seven  hundred 
and  forty  Fountaines  for  the  publique,  not  reckoning  those  which 
are  drawne  into  divers  parts  to  furnish  the  great  number  of  Bathes 
which  serve  for  delights^,  and  the  Turkes  superstition.  Upon 
the  last  of  the  seven  Hils  are  yet  to  be  scene  the  ancient  build- 
ings of  a  Fort  strengthened  with  seven  Towres  in  the  midst  of 
the  situation :  the  Turkes  call  it  Giedicula^,  that  is  to  say,  the 
Fort  of  the  seven  Towres,  in  the  which  the  wonders  of  Art  was 
so  great  in  old  time,  as  what  was  spoken  in  the  one  was  heard  in 
all  the  rest,  not  all  at  one  instant,  but  successively  and  in  order. 
Two  hundred  and  fifty  Souldiers  are  in  guard,  commanded  by  a 
Captaine  who  hath  the  charge,  who  may  not  goe  forth  without 
the  leave  of  the  Grand  Vizir,  except  it  be  on  two  dayes  in  the 
yeare,  when  they  celebrate  their  Feasts  of  Bayrans^  or  Easter. 
The  first  Turkish  Emperour  which  possest  Constantinople  lodged 
their  treasure  in  these  Towres :  The  one  was  full  of  Ingots,  and 
cxjyned  gold ;  two  of  them  contained  the  silver  that  was  coyned 
and  in  Ingots :  another  had  divers  armes  and  ornaments  for 
Souldiers,  and  the  Caparisons  for  Horses,  enricht  with  gold,  silver 
and  precious  stones  :  the  fift  served  for  ancient  Armes,  Medales, 
and  other  precious  remaynders  of  Antiquity :  the  sixt  contained 
the  Engines  for  Warre  :  and  the  seventh,  the  Rols  and  Records  of 
the  Empire ;  accompanied  with  a  goodly  gallery,  in  the  which 

1  See  p.  31.  ^  See  p.  37. 

*   Yedi  Kule.     See  note  2  on  p.  31. 
^  B  air  dm. 


SEVENTEENTH   CENTURY  185 

were  placed  the  rich  spoyles  which  Selym  the  first  brought  from 
Tauras,  when   he  triumphed   over   Persia.     All   these   treasures 

were  carefully  kept  untill  the  Reigne  of  Selym  the  Second 

Constantinople  hath  within  the  enclosure  of  the  wals  above  two 
thousand  Mosquees,  or  Turkish  Temples  built  by  their  Emperors. . . . 
The  Chiefe  of  all  these  Mosquees  is  that  which  hath  beene 
erected  in  the  ancient  Temple  of  Sancta  Sophia,  called  by  the 
Turkes  Ayasophia^  ...Besides  this  great  and  admirable  Mosquee, 
there  are  foure  others  of  note,  the  durable  markes  of  the  mag- 
nificence of  the  Turkish  Emperours. ...The  Grecians  which  are 
Christians,  have  within  Constantinople  forty  Churches  for  their 
divine  Service ;  the  Armenians  have  fowre,  and  the  Latines  (lesse 
favoured  then  these)  have  but  two  :  It  is  true  that  most  of  them 
are  lodged  at  Galata,  now  called  Pera,  which  is  on  the  other  side 
of  the  Channell,  where  they  have  nine  Churches  for  their  Devo- 
tions and  holy  Mysteries.  The  Jewes  have  the  credit  to  be 
within  the  City  in  nine  severall  quarters,  and  have  eight  and 
thirty  Synagogues — The  walls  of  this  Imperiall  City  are  yet 
firme  and  entire.  They  are  double  upon  the  firme  Land^,  except 
it  be  towards  the  Gate  of  Ayachapezi,  that  is  to  say,  the  holy 
Gate,  by  reason  of  the  great  number  of  Religious  bodies  which 
were  in  a  Church  neere  unto  that  Gate... there  are  nineteen  gates 
as  well  upon  the  firme  Land  as  towards  the  Sea,  which  serve  for 
an  entrance  into  this  City.  Many  great  places  are  extended  for 
the  commodity  of  the  Publike,  some  have  preserved  the  ancient 
Pyramides,  and  the  workes  of  Brasse  erected  by  Christian 
Emperours,  amongst  others  that  which  they  call  Petrome,  where 
there  are  to  be  scene  whole  Obelisques ;  and  three  great  Serpents 
of  Marble  creeping  upward  wreathed  one  within  the  other^... 
The  shops  for  merchants  exceed  the  number  of  forty  eight 
thousand;  they  are  divided  according  to  the  diversity  of  trades 
or  Merchandizes  into  divers  places;  but  every  trade  hath  his  quarter, 
and  in  divers  parts  for  the  commoditie  of  the  Publique.  Only 
Goldsmiths,  Jewellers  and  Merchants  of  cloth  of  gold  are  in  one 
place  called  Baystan*,  that  is  to  say  Market ;  the  others  Bazars. 
This  rich  place  is  invironed  with  wals  sixe  foote  thicke ;   there 


^  See  p.   35.     Ayasophia  represents  the  modern  Greek  pronunciation  of 
ayia  cxocpia. 

^  See  p.  31.  2  See  p.  33.  *  See  p.  37. 


1 86  APPENDIX   E.      CONSTANTINOPLE   IN    THE 

are  foure  double  Gates  one  before  the  other,  like  unto  a  little 
Towne,  vaulted  round  about.  This  rich  Market  place  hath  foure 
and  twenty  Pillars  which  support  the  vault,  under  the  which  there 
are  many  little  shops  like  unto  boxes  in  the  wall,  or  in  the  Pillars, 
every  one  is  sixe  foote  broad  and  foure  long :  There  they  shew 
forth  their  rich  Merchandizes  upon  little  Tables  which  are  before 

them Besides  the  Baystan,  there  is  another  lesse  invironed  with 

a  wall,  and  supported  by  sixteene  small  Pillars... without  it  is  the 
detestable  Market  where  they  sell  men  and  women' — The  taxe 
of  those  which  imbarque  themselves  to  travaile,  which  is  an 
Aspre  for  every  head  if  they  be  Turkes,  and  two  if  they  be 
Christians  or  Jewes,  is  of  no  small  importance.  The  Tribute 
called  in  Turkic  Charay",  which  is  levied  upon  the  Jewes  in 
Constantinople,  after  the  rate  of  a  Sequin  for  everie  male  Childe 
is  worth  eleven  Millions^  three  hundred  Sequins  yearely,  although 
there  be  many  of  that  Nation  which  are  free  from  this  Tribute. 
They  doe  also  give  a  present  of  three  thousand  Sequins  everie 
yeare,  for  the  confirmation  of  their  Priviledges,  and  to  have  a 
Rabbin  to  command  their  Synagogues,  and  twelve  hundred 
Sequins  to  have  leave  to  burie  their  Dead.  The  Christians, 
Grecians,  within  three  miles  or  a  league  of  Constantinople,  pay 
for  every  Male  a  Sequin,  which  amounts  to  the  summe  of  above 
thirtie  eight  thousand  Sequins :  They  doe  also  give  five  and 
twentie  thousand  yearely  for  their  priviledge  to  have  a  Patriarch, 
and  to  preserve  the  number  of  their  Churches.  The  priviledge 
of  their  burials  cost  them  above  three  thousand  Sequins — But 
to  returne  to  this  great  Citie  of  Constantinople,  the  Magnificences 
of  the  Princes  which  possesse  it  at  this  day,  and  the  riches  of 
some  Bashawes,  or  great  Men  of  the  Court,  have  caused  above 
three  hundred  Carravasserrails  to  bee  built :  these  are  great  and 

vast   places   to   lodge   Strangers The  Arsenall   is  one   of   the 

goodliest  and  rarest  things  in  Constantinople*;  it  is  upon  the  Sea 
Shoare,  and  containes  a  hundred  and  foure  score  Arches,  under 
either  of  which  enters  a  great  Galley,  yea,  three  may  be  safely 
lodged. 


1  See  p.  34. 

^  See  note  i  on  p.  26. 

*  See  Mundy's  correction  of  this  statement  on  p.  26. 

■*  See  p.  39. 


SEVENTEENTH   CENTURY  187 


2.      Tho7nas  Gainsford^s  Description  of  Coitstantifiople^. 

What  I  have  said  of  Paris  by  way  of  comparison,  concerning 
the  government  and  orderly  managing  the  affaires  of  a  citie, 
I  may  well  conclude  against  Constantinople  :  but  because  this 
Imperiall  place  looketh  with  a  more  Majesticall  countenance  then 
other  Cities  and  lifteth  up  (as  it  were)  a  daring  head  against 
all  contradiction  for  her  superioritie  :  I  must  needes  pensill  out 
the  line  of  her  praises  at  some  length,  and  tell  you  truely  wherein 
her  worthinesse  consisteth,  and  yet  may  deceive  opinion  without 
true  judgment.  Constantinople,  otherwise  called  Stanbole,  the 
Beautifull,  hath  a  handsome  and  formall  triangle  of  a  wall,  the 
first  part  whereof  reacheth  from  the  Seven  Towers^  (which  is  a 
place  for  suppliment  of  a  prison,  a  treasurie,  and  ward-robe)  unto 
the  Seraglio,  some  three  English  mile.  The  second  from  the 
Seraglio  to  Porta  del  Fieume  a  little  more  and  both  towards  the 
sea,  which  runneth  one  way  betweene  Asia  and  Europe  into  the 
Euxinum ;  and  another  way  to  encounter  a  pretty  fresh  water 
River,  beyond  the  North  of  Pera,  and  the  third  overlooketh  the 
fields  of  Thracia,  with  a  greater  compasse  and  strength,  because 
it  is  a  double  wall  ^  and  openeth  three  or  foure  gates,  as  Andrinople, 
Gratianople,  the  Tower  gate,  &c.  into  the  countrey,  which 
flourished  when  Pausanias  was  contented  with  the  title  of  Duke 
and  Captaine  of  the  Spartanes,  and  built  this  wonderful  towne  by 


^  The  extracts  here  given  are  taken  from  The  Glory  of  England,  or  A 
Ti'ue  Description  of  many  ejccelleiit  prerogatives  and  remarkable  blessings, 
whereby  She  Triumpheth  over  all  the  Nations  of  the  World:  With  a  justifiable 
comparison  betweene  the  eminent  Kingdomes  of  the  Earth  and  Her  self e;  plainely 
manifesting  the  defects  of  them  all  in  regard  of  her  snfficiencie  and  fulnesse  of 
happinesse.  By  T.  G.  [Thomas  Gainsford],  London,  1618.  The  book,  a 
quarto  volume  of  332  pages,  in  two  parts,  is  dedicated  to  the  Duke  of 
Buckingham.  A  revised  edition  appeared  in  161 9  and  was  re-issued  in 
1620. 

Thomas  Gainsford,  who  died  in  ?  1624,  served  in  Ireland  against  the 
Spaniards  and  during  the  rebellion  of  Tyrone,  1601  — 1610.  He  was  the 
author  of  six  printed  works.  An  account  of  his  life  and  writings  is  given  in 
the  Diet,  of  Nat.  Biography.  In  this  account  there  is  no  mention  of 
Gainsford's  travels  on  the  Continent.  He  must,  however,  have  been  at 
Constantinople  in  1607  for  he  says  that  he  was  an  eye-witness  of  occurrences 
there  which  he  describes  in  his  Glory  of  Ejigland,  p.  35. 

For  Mundy's  version  of  Gainsford's  description  of  Constantinople,  see 
pp.   27-30. 

2  See  p.  31. 


l88  APPENDIX   E.      CONSTANTINOPLE   IN   THE 

the  name  of  Bizantium,  in  honour  of  his  father  Bize,  who  was 
Admirall  of  the  Grecian  Navy,  when  Thebes  and  other  cities 
strove  for  superiority:  the  wall  is  orderly  beautified  with  square 
towers  of  hard  stone ^  whose  equall  distance  makes  a  reasonable 
shew,  but  that  it  resembles  a  painted  Curtezan  of  outward  good 
becoming,  yet  within  full  of  corruption  and  danger.  For  con- 
cerning the  streets,  citizens,  houses,  or  order  of  a  well  compacted 
Commonwealth,  it  retaineth  nothing  comming  neere  our  London, 
or  happinesse.  The  situation  is  yet  a  stately  ascent  from  the  sea, 
as  if  it  had  a  pride  to  mocke  at  the  swelling  of  any  tempest :  and 
embolden  the  Marchant  with  the  security  of  the  Sacra  Porta, 
being  indeed  the  goodliest  Harbour  in  the  world,  twenty  fathom 
deep,  close  to  the  shores  of  two  cities  ^  Thus  it  containeth  ten 
English  miles  in  circumference,  having  no  suburbs,  and  shewing 
much  waste  ground  in  the  unfrequented  places  toward  the  land, 
especially  where  the  Bashawes  houses  are  sequestred  from  the 
hurliburly  of  the  Trades-man. 

The  Seragho  is  the  palace  of  the  Gran  Signeur^,  yet  is  a  name 
appropriate  to  divers  sequestred  places,  wherein  his  women  are 
detained,  and  hath  questionlesse  the  derivation  from  our  Latin 
word  Sera,  or  locked  up  :  it  is  a  receptacle  for  divers  thousands, 
enclosing  as  much  ground  as  St.  James  parke.  For  the  Large 
Courts  are  very  large  with  severall  guards  of  Janizaries*,  according 
to  the  necessity  of  the  times,  or  neernesse  to  the  Emperours 
person.  The  gardens  are  spacious  with  embattelled  walls,  stored 
with  artillery,  the  gates  most  of  them  iron,  kept  by  Capog'ies ; 
the  buildings  are  many  and  stately  bearing  in  their  front  certaine 
Dowanas  or  open  hals,  which  have  cravesses  of  Persian  stuffe, 
and  are  roomes  of  great  receipt,  wherein  the  officers  of  the  palace 
sit  in  open  view  at  their  feasts  and  diet.  The  banquetting-houses, 
wherein  his  concubines  and  boyes  are  aparted  from  the  court 
hurliburly,  expose  divers  manner  of  structures  and  seeme  indeed 
severall  palaces,  among  whom  there  is  one  called  a  Caska^ 
without  the  wall  of  the  seraglio,  close  to  the  sea-side,  where  hee 
accustometh   to   take   his   gaily  ^   of   the   deUcatest   and   richest 

1  See  p.  32.  ^  See  p.  37  f.  '^  See  p.  35  f. 

*  See  note  2  on  p.  43.  Mr  Edwin  Pears  suggests  that  it  is  worth  observing 
that  already,  in  Mundy's  time,  a  number  of  this  body  (Janissaries)  were  told 
off  as  permanent  guards  to  various  embassies  by  whom  they  were  paid. 

®  See  Mundy's  explanations  on  p.  28. 


SEVENTEENTH   CENTURY  189 

presence  that  ever  I  beheld  :  for  it  is  a  quadrant  of  seven  arches 
on  a  side  cloister  wise,  like  the  Rialto  walke  in  Venice ;  in  the 
midst  riseth  a  core  of  three  or  foure  roomes  with  chimnies,  whose 
mantell  trees  are  of  silver,  the  windows  curiously  glazed  and 
besides  protected  with  an  iron  grate  all  guilt  over  most  gloriously: 
the  whole  frame  so  set  with  opals,  rubies,  emeralds,  burnisht  with 
golde,  painted  with  flowers,  and  graced  with  inlayed  worke  of 
porphery,  marble,  jet,  jasper,  and  delicate  stones,  that  I  am  per- 
swaded  there  is  not  such  a  bird  cage  in  the  world.  Under  the 
walls  are  stables  for  sea  horses  called  Hippopatami,  which  is  a 
monstrous  beast  taken  in  Nilus,  Elephants,  Tigres,  and  Dolphines : 
sometimes  they  have  Crocadiles  and  Rhinoceros :  within  are 
Roebuckes,  white  Partridges,  and  Turtles,  the  bird  of  Arabia, 
and  many  beasts  and  fowles  of  Affrica  and  India.  The  walkes 
are  shaded  with  Cipres,  Cedar,  Turpentine,  and  trees  which  wee 
only  know  by  their  names,  amongst  which,  such  as  affoord 
sustenance,  are  called  figs,  almonds,  olives,  pomegranets,  limons, 
orenges,  and  such  like :  but  it  should  seeme  they  are  here  as  it 
were  enforced  and  kept  in  order  with  extraordinary  diligence :  for 
the  sunne  kisseth  them  not  with  that  fervency,  as  may  make  them 
large,  or  ripen  in  their  proper  kindes. 

The  City  is  very  populous  toward  the  harbour,  the  Besisteine\ 
Bashawes  houses,  mosques,  conduits,  tombs  and  monuments, 
open  as  it  were  a  storehouse  of  magnificent  workes  :  yet  when 
I  read,  that  Constantine  unplumed  Rome,  and  as  it  were  robbed 
all  the  world,  making  this  place  accessary  to  the  theft,  and  cannot 
finde  the  particulars  in  mine  inventory,  I  marvell  who  hath  either 
dared  to  purloine  them,  or  presumed  to  ruinate  and  deface  them. 
For  the  cheefest  structures  are  now  the  great  Seralio^,  the  lesser 
Seralios,  the  seven  towres^,  the  double  walP,  divers  Bashawes 
houses,  before  some  of  which  are  spacious  quadrants  graced  with 
antiquities,  recording  the  ancient  manner  of  turnaiments,  when 
the  Greekes  flourished :  the  Mosques  or  Temples,  amongst  whom 
the  Sophia,  Solimana  and  Amorata'*  are  indeed  heaps  of  ostenta- 
tion and  fabricks  of  great  delight,  the  place  called  Jobs  tombe, 
sequestred  for  the  buriall  of  the  Emperours  children,  who  are 
commonly  all  strangled  on  the  day  of  his  elder  sonnes  inaugura- 

i  See  p.  37.  2  See  p.  35  f,  3  See  p.  31. 

*  See  p.  35. 


190  APPENDIX   E.      CONSTANTINOPLE   IN    THE 

tion  by  Mutes,  and  then  enclosed  in  coffins  of  Cypres,  and  so 
received  by  the  Mufti  into  chappies  consecrated  for  that  purpose ; 
the  Patriarcks  house  :  certaine  balneas ' ;  aqua  ductus ;  Con- 
stantine's  palace';  and  the  Towers  on  the  walls  I  To  these  you 
may  adde  the  Besisteine,  a  place  like  our  Exchange,  for  varietie 
of  marchandize',  market  of  virgins^,  selling  of  slaves,  and  the 
vaults  under  ground  fenced  with  iron  gates  to  secure  their 
treasure,  which  especially  belongeth  to  the  Jewes,  who  farme  the 
office  of  Dacii  or  customes,  and  are  (as  it  were)  the  Turkes 
receivers,  so  that  these  places  must  needes  bee  strongly  guarded, 
both  to  prevent  the  furie  of  the  Janizaries,  who  are  very  irregular 
in  their  tumults,  and  the  extremity  of  fire  and  earthquakes*,  to 
whose  violence  the  Citie  is  many  tymes  subject. 

The  next  division  is  Galata,  a  city  over  against  it,  divided 
onely  by  the  sea,  no  broader  heere  then  our  Tamisis,  of  great 
antiquity,  walled  about,  and  retaining  a  particular  name  and 
renowne,  for  holding  out  a  yeere  and  better,  after  Constantinople 
was  surprized :  it  standeth  likewise  up  a  hill,  and  equals  it  both 
for  beastlinesse,  confusion  and  uncomely  streets  and  houses : 
heere  live  Greekes,  and  the  Francks,  as  they  terme  the  Papists  (of 
what  nation  soever),  have  a  Church  by  permission,  the  Curtezan 
likewise  liveth  at  some  liberty ;  yet  is  it  death  for  any  Christian  to 
lie  with  a  Turkish  woman  or  Jew. 

The  third  part  of  this  great  city  comprehendeth  the  vine  of 
Pera^,  which  is  a  huge  suburbs,  compassing  Galata  round  about, 
a  place  of  quiet  dwelling,  good  aire,  and  pleasant  gardens :  yet  in 
regard  the  many  thousand  tombs  of  Turkes  (for  you  must  know 
that  neither  Turke,  Jew,  nor  Christian,  interre  any  corps  in  their 
Mosques  or  city,  except  they  build  a  chappie  of  purpose,  or  have 
the  priviledge  of  the  Franck  Church)  fill  up  a  great  quantity  of 
ground  with  disordered,  confused,  noysome  and  fearefull  graves. 
On  the  one  side  toward  the  north-east,  you  have  an  Arsenall  for 
gallies,  a  little  beyond,  a  handsome  Seralio,  and  somwhat  further 


^  See  p.  37.  2  See  p.  32. 

^  See  p.  34.  '  *  See  p.  39. 

^  See  note  2  on  p.  22  and.  p.  41.  Pera  is  the  Greek  word  for  trans, 
beyond,  and  was  applied  to  all  that  part  of  Constantinople  beyond  the  Golden 
Horn.  In  such  part  was  included  Galata,  a  walled  city,  which  is  sometimes 
spoken  of  as  "  Galata  of  Pera."  I  am  indebted  for  this  note  to  Mr  Edwin 
Pears. 


SEVENTEENTH   CENTURY  I9I 

a  pretty  fresh  water  river,  as  if  they  lay  in  sequence,  by  whose 
banks  are  certaine  houses  erected  of  purpose,  for  the  pleasure 
and  reposednes  of  speciall  Bashawes.  On  the  other  side  toward 
the  south  west,  the  office  of  artilery  called  Tapanaw ',  inviteth  you 
to  the  view  of  such  ordnance  and  munition,  that  for  number, 
greatnesse,  and  use  surmount  any  one  city  of  Europe :  you  have 
likewise  another  Seralio,  and  in  these  suburbs  are  resident  the 
English,  French  and  Venetian  Ambassadours":  as  for  the  Persian, 
Emperours  of  Germany,  and  Polacks,  they  lived  in  the  great  city, 
and  sometimes  visited  one  another,  as  either  necessitie  of  busi- 
nesse,  or  pleasure  of  invitation  afifoorded. 

The  last  quarter  of  this  division  affoordeth  the  object  of  a 
towne  in  Asia  called  Scideron,  or  Scideret,  betweene  which  and 
Constantinople  the  sea  runneth  20  English  mile  in  length,  and 
onely  two  in  bredth,  as  farre  as  Pompey's  pillar^  and  the  blacke 
Tower,  resembling  a  lace  fringed  with  spangles  and  purles :  for 
the  Bashawes  and  Chawses  houses  so  stand  on  both  sides,  as  if 
they  were  made  to  answer  a  proportion  of  handsomnesse :  but 
when  time  and  a  daies  travell  hath  taken  away  the  pleasure  of 
this  spectacle,  then  fall  you  into  a  large  gulph,  once  called 
Euxinum  mare,  now  the  blacke  sea,  extending  a  thousand  miles, 
as  farre  as  Trebisond :  on  the  farther  shore  of  the  continent  now 
called  Russia  is  shouldred  up  close  Moeotis  Palus :  into  which 
the  great  river  of  Tanais  sendeth  his  streames,  as  if  a  messenger 
of  glad  tydings  and  businesse  should  hasten  to  discharge  his 
duty. 

Thus  I  confesse,  if  on  the  towers  of  the  Amorata,  or  battle- 
ments of  the  Sophia*,  you  beheld  all  at  once,  as  it  were  one 
united  body,  it  would  equall,  if  not  surpasse  London,  for 
spaciousnesse  of  grounds,  some  monuments,  and  divers  palaces 
and  houses  :  but  yet  come  in  no  way  neere  my  satisfaction,  as 
being  defective  in  many  things,  which  I  supposed  to  excell  in  it, 
and  deficient  in  all  things  wherein  a  happy  countrey  supplieth  the 

1  See  p.  39. 

2  See  p.  41.  Mr  Edwin  Pears  remarks  that  Mundy's  statement  as  to  the 
residence  of  Pindar  at  Pera  is  interesting,  because  the  earlier  ambassadors  had 
resided  at  Karabali. 

*  See  p.  20.  Mr  Edwin  Pears  tells  me  that  the  pedestal  of  the  so-called 
pillar  still  exists.  It  is  on  one  of  the  rocks  known  as  the  Symplegades. 
Portions  of  the  Latin  inscription  can  still  be  made  out. 

*  See  p.  35. 


192  APPENDIX   E.      CONSTANTINOPLE   IN    THE 

want  of  her  enhabitants.  For  heere  is  neither  good  lodging, 
proportionable  fare,  free  recourse,  gracious  entertainement,  true 
religion,  secure  abiding^,  allowable  pleasure,  orderly  governement, 
or  any  thing  wherin  a  noble  citie  is  made  glorious  indeed :  nor  is 
it  so  populous  as  report  hath  busied  us,  but  fama  malmfi,  and  it 
may  be,  the  plague  having  consumed  80000°,  and  the  army  of 
200000  deducted,  diminished  somewhat  the  glory,  and  left  the 
rest  of  the  people  to  enjoy  more  freedome.  And  thus  much  for 
Constantinople. 


3.     George  Sandy i^  Descriptioji  of  Constantinople'^. 

The  Emperor  Constantine... built  his  Citie  where  as  now  it 

standeth Finished  it  was  on  the  eleventh  of  May,  in  the  yeare 

331,  and  consecrated  to  the  blessed  Virgin.  Rome  he  bereft  of 
her  ornaments  to  adorne  it,  fetching  from  thence  in  one  yeare 
more  antiquities  then  twentie  Emperours  had  brought  thither 
before  in  an  hundred.  Among  the  rest  that  huge  obeliske  of 
Theban  marble,  called  Placaton  by  the  Greeks  (formerly  brought 

^  Mundy,  however,  thought  differently,  in  1620.     See  p.  22. 

^  See  p.  40. 

^  George  Sandys,  poet,  born  in  1577,  was  the  seventh  and  youngest  son  of 
Edwin  Sandys,  Archbishop  of  York.  In  1610,  George  Sandys  travelled  to 
the  Levant  and  spent  a  year  in  Turkey,  Egypt  and  Palestine.  On  his  return 
to  England  he  published  an  account  of  his  travels  under  the  title  of  A  Relation 
of  a  yowney  begun  Aw.  Do7n:  1610.  Foure  Bookes.  Containing  a  description 
of  the  Turkish  Empire,  of  Aegypt,  of  the  Holy  land,  of  the  Remote  parts  of 
Italy,  aiid  Hands  adjoyning.  London.  Printed  for  W:  Barrett.  16 15.  This 
edition  has,  as  a  frontispiece,  a  portrait  of  "  George  Sandes  Poet  and  Traveller. 
From  an  original  Picture  at  Ombersley"  [in  Worcestershire,  where  the  family 
(Lord  Sandys)  is  still  established].  See  note  6  on  p.  26,  where  the  title  of 
Sandys'  work  is  that  of  the  7th  or  1673  edition  and  not  that  of  the  1st  or  1615 
edition  as  is  there  stated.  The  book,  dedicated  to  Prince  Charles,  is  adorned 
with  maps  and  illustrations.  It  was  well  received  and  ran  to  seven  editions 
between  161 5  and  1673. 

In  162 1,  George  Sandys  went  to  America,  where  he  continued  his  literary 
work  and  where  he  completed  a  translation  in  verse  of  Ovid's  Metamorphoses. 
On  his  return,  circ.  163 1,  he  became  a  gentleman  of  the  privy  chamber  of 
Charles  I.  and  was  admitted  to  the  intimate  friendship  of  Lord  Falkland. 
His  later  years  were  occupied  with  poetic  paraphrases  of  the  Scriptures.  He 
died  in  1644.     See  the  account  of  his  life  in  the  Diet,  of  Nat.  Biography. 

^  See  note  2  on  p.  30.  Mundy  introduces  his  extracts  from  Sandys'  work 
thus: — "More  abstracted  out  of  Mr.  Sandis  his  acurate  observation  and 
elegant  discription  of  his  travells,  being  about  1610,  and  where,  among  the 
rest,  hee  relates  of  Constantinople  and  the  gran  Signiors  Seraglio  from 
Page  29  to  [77]  thus:"  Mundy's  figures  refer  to  the  1615  edition  of  Sandys' 
book. 


SEVENTEENTH   CENTURY  I93 

out  of  ^gypt),  and  errected  in  the  Forum,  with  a  brazen  statue 
of  antique  and  Dedalian  workmanship  set  upon  the  top  of  a 
Columne,  and  called  by  his  name,  throwne  downe  by  a  violent 
wind  in  the  reign  of  Alexis.     This  place  was... also  beautified  with 

the  Trojan  Palladium 

This  Citie,  by  destinie  appointed,  and  by  nature  seated  for 
Soveraigntie,  was  first  the  seate  of  the  Romane  Emperours,  then 
of  the  Greek,  as  now  it  is  of  the  Turkish — It  stands  on  a  cape 
of  land  neare  the  entrance  of  the  Bosphorus.  In  forme  triangular: 
on  the  East  side  washed  with  the  same,  and  on  the  North  side 
with  the  Haven,  adjoyning  on  the  West  to  the  Continent.  Walled 
with  bricke  and  stone ',  intermixed  orderly :  having  foure  and 
twentie  gates  and  posternes^;  whereof  five  do  regard  the  land, 
and  nineteene  the  water :  being  about  thirteene  miles  in  circum- 
ference. Then  this  there  is  hardly  in  nature  a  more  delicate 
object,  if  beheld  from  the  sea  or  adjoyning  mountaines :  the 
loftie  and  beautifull  Cypresse  trees  so  intermixed  with  the 
buildings,  that  it  seemeth  to  present  a  Citie  in  a  wood  to  the 
pleased  beholders.  Whose  seven  aspiring  heads  (for  on  soe  many 
hils  and  no  more,  they  say  it  is  seated),  are  most  of  them 
crowned  with  magnificent  Mosques^,  all  of  white  marble,  round 
in  forme,  and  coupled  above;  being  finished  on  the  top  with 
gilded  spires  that  reflect  the  beames  they  receive  with  a  marvellous 
splendor;  some  having  two,  some  foure,  some  sixe  adjoyninge 
turrets,  exceeding  high,  and  exceeding  slender :  tarrast  aloft  on 
the  out-side  like  the  maine  top  of  a  ship,  and  that  in  severall 
places  equally  distant ;  from  whence  the  Talismanni  with  elated 
voices  (for  they  use  no  bels)  do  congregate  the  people,  pronoun- 
cing this  Arabicke  sentence :  la  illah  illella  muhemet  re  sue 
ALLAH  :  viz.  There  is  but  one  God,  and  Mahomet  his  prophet. 
No  Mosque  can  have  more  then  one  of  these  turrets,  if  not  built 

^  See  p.  31. 

2  See  p.  32  and  note  2  on  that  page.  Mr  Edwin  Pears  has  since  told  me 
that  I  am  mistaken,  and  that  the  Golden  Gate  was  not  that  by  which  the  Turks 
entered  Constantinople.  A  small  number  entered  by  the  Circus  Gate 
(Kerkoporta)  adjoining  Tekfour  Serai,  North  of  the  Adrianople  Gate.  The 
entrance  of  the  great  body  of  the  Turks  was  by  the  Pempton  or  San  Romano 
Military  Gate  in  the  Lycus  Valley.  The  Golden  Gate  end  of  the  wall  was  not 
even  attacked  in  1453.  Mr  Pears  further  supplies  the  information  that,  on 
the  outbreak  of  the  Russo-Turkish  war  in  1877,  the  Turks  destroyed  the 
Kerkoporta  to  render  the  prophecy  that  the  Christians  should  recapture  the 
city  by  this  gate  incapable  of  fulfilment.  ^  See  p.  33. 

M.  13 


194  APPENDIX   E.      CONSTANTINOPLE   IN    THE 

by  an  Emperor.  ...But  that  of  Sancta  Sophia',  once  a  Christian 
Temple... exceedeth  not  onely  the  rest,  by  whose  patterne  they 
were  framed,  but  all  other  fabrickes  whatsoever  throughout  the 
whole  Universe.  A  long  labour  it  were  to  describe  it  exactly. . . . 
The  roofe  compact,  and  adorned  with  Mosaike  painting :  an 
antique  kind  of  worke,  composed  of  litle  square  peeces  of  marble; 
gilded  and  coloured... which  set  together,  as  if  imbossed,  present 

an  unexpressable  stateliness,  and  are  of  a  marvellous  durance 

Evagrius,  that  lived  a  thousand  yeares  since,  affirmeth  this  Temple 
to  have  bene  from  East  unto  West,  two  hundred  threescore  feete 
long,  and  in  height  one  hundred  and  fourescore :  and  Antonius 
Menavinus,  that  in  the  dayes  of  Bajazet  it  contained  at  once 
sixe  and  thirtie  thousand  Turkes.  Perhaps  the  ancient  fabricke 
then  standing  entire ;  whereof  this  now  remaining  was  little  more 
then  the  Chancell.  Better  to  be  beleeved  then  Belonius,  a 
moderne  eye-witnesse,  who  reports  that  the  doores  thereof  are  in 
number  equall  to  the  dales  of  the  yeare ;  whereas  if  it  hath  five, 
it  hath  more  by  one,  then  by  me  was  discerned — The  inferiour 
[Mosques]  are  built  for  the  most  part  square  :  many  pent-housd 
with  open  galleries,  where  they  accustome  to  pray  at  times  ex- 
traordinary :  there  being  in  all  (comprehending  Pera,  Scutari, 
and  the  buildings  that  border  the  Bosphorus),  about  the  number 
of  eight  thousand. 

But  this  of  Sophia  is  almost  every  other  Friday  frequented  by 
the  Sultan,  being  neare  unto  the  fore-front  of  his  Serraglio,  which 
posseseth  the  extremest  point  of  the  North-east  angle,  where 
formerly  stood  the  ancient  Byzantium  :  devided  from  the  rest  of 
the  Citie  by  a  loftie  wall,  containing  three  miles  in  circuite,  and 
comprehending  goodly  groves  of  Cypresses  intermixed  with 
plaines,  delicate  gardens,  artificiall  fountaines,  all  varietie  of 
fruite-trees,  and  what  not  rare —  On  the  North  side  stands  the 
sultans  Cabinet,  in  forme  of  a  sumptuous  Sommer-house,  having 
a  private  passage  made  for  the  time,  of  waxed  linnen,  from  his 
Serraglio :  where  he  often  solaceth  himselfe  with  the  various 
objects  of  the  haven  :  and  from  thence  takes  barge  to  passe  unto 
the  delightfuU  places  of  the  adjoyning  Asia — 

We  omit  to  speake  of  great  mens  Serraglios...Besestanes^... 
markets  of  men  and  women ^,  &c.  ...convertting  our  discourse  to 

^  See  p.  35.  ^  See  p.  37.  ^  gee  p.  34. 


SEVENTEENTH   CENTURY  I95 

those  few  remainders  of  many  antiquities,  whereof  the  Aquaduct 
made  by  the  Emperor  Valentinian,  and  retaining  his  name,  doth 
principally  challenge  remembrance.  This  hath  his  heads  neare 
the  Black  Sea,  not  far  from  a  village  called  Domuz-dere,  of  the 
abundance  of  wilde  hogs  thereabouts,  the  place  being  wooddy  and 
mountainous,  where  many  springs  are  gathered  together,  and  at 
sundry  places  do  joyntly  fall  into  great  round  cesternes,  from 
thence  conveyed  to  conjoyne  with  others  (among  which,  as 
supposed,  is  the  brooke  Cydarius),  led  sometimes  under  the 
earth,  now  along  the  levell,  then  uppon  mighty  arches  over  pro- 
found vallies,  from  hill  to  hill,  for  the  space  wel-nigh  of  thirtie 
miles,  untill  arriving  at  the  Citie,  and  surmounting  the  same,  it 
falleth  at  length  as  from  an  headlong  cataract  into  an  ample 
cesterne,  supported  with  neare  two  hundred  pillars  of  marble,  and 
is  from  thence  by  conduits  conducted  unto  their  publike  uses. 
This  was  repaired  by  Solyman  the  Great,  great  grandfather  to  this 
now  reigning  Achmet  whose  wishes  and  endeavours  are  said  to 
have  aimed  at  three  things,  which  were,  the  reedifying  of  Ponte 
Piccolo  and  Ponte  Grande '  (which  crosse  two  armes  of  the  sea) 
and  the  restoring  of  the  Aquseduct,  these  he  accomplished :  but 
the  third,  which  was  the  expugnation  of  Vienna,  he  could  never 
accomplish.  Not  far  from  the  Temple  of  Sancta  Sophia,  there 
is  a  spacious  place  surrounded  with  buildings,  like  to  that  of 
Smithfield,  and  anciently  called  the  Hippodrom,  for  that  there 
they  exhibited  their  horse-races,  The  swift  hoofe  beaies  the  dustie 
Hippodrom^  as  now  Atmaidan^  by  the  Turkes,  a  word  of  like 
signification.  ...In  this  place  there  standeth  a  stately  Hierogliphi- 

call  obelisk  of  Theban  marble^ A  little  removed  there  standeth 

a  Columne  of  wreathed  brasse  with  three  infolded  serpents  at  the 
top,  extended  in  a  triangle,  and  looking  severall  ways*.  And 
beyond    both    these,    another    high    Obelisk,    termed    by   some 

1  See  p.  45  f.  ^  See  p.  32. 

'^  See  note  2  on  p.  33,  where  the  obelisk  is  erroneously  said  to  have  been 
set  up  by  Constantine.  It  was  set  up  by  Theodosius.  The  mistake  was 
discovered  too  late  for  correction. 

*  See  note  i  on  p.  33.  Mr  Edwin  Pears  has  supplied  the  following 
additional  information  about  this  column  :— No  one  now  doubts  that  this 
monument  came  from  Delphi.  The  names  of  the  states  that  took  part  in  the 
battle  of  Platsea  (b.c.  479)  which  were  cut  upon  the  coils  of  the  Serpents  are 
not  visible,  but  rubbings  with  heel-ball  exist  which  bring  them  out  clearly  and 
as  stated  by  Herodotus.  The  upper  half  of  one  of  the  heads  (upon  which  one 
of  the  legs  of  the  tripod  stood)  is  now  in  the  Stamboul  Museum. 

13—2 


196  APPENDIX   E.      CONSTANTINOPLE   IN    THE 

Colossus,  built  of  sundry  stones,  now  greatly  ruinated,  covered 
heretofore  with  plates  of  gilded  brasse,  whose  basis  do  yet 
retaine  this  inscription.  ...And  in  Auratbasar  (that  is,  the 
market  of  weomen')  there  is  an  historicall  Columne  to  be 
ascended  within,  farre  surpassing  both  Trajans  and  that  of 
Antoninus  which  I  have  seene  in  Rome  :  the  workman  having  so 
proportioned  the  figures  that  the  highest  and  lowest  appeare  of 
one  bignesse^ 

And  right  against  the  mansion  of  the  German  Emperours 
Ambassadour  (who  only  is  suffered  to  lodge  within  the  Citie), 
stands  the  Columne  of  Constantine^ 

These  are  all  the  remaines  that  are  left  (or  all  that  are  by  the 
Christians  to  bee  seene)  besides  the  relikes  of  the  Pallace  of 
Constantine*,  now  made  a  stable  for  wilde  beasts,  of  so  many 
goodly  buildings,  and  from  all  parts  congested  antiquities,  where- 
with this  soveraigne  Citie  was  in  times  past  so  adorned  :  and  with 
them  are  their  memories  perished.  For  not  a  Greeke  can  satisfie 
the  Inquirer  in  the  history  of  their  .owne  calamities — But  to  say 
something  of  Constantinople  in  generall :  I  thinke  there  is  not  in 
the  world  an  object  that  promiseth  soe  much  a  farre  off  to  the 
beholders,  and  entred,  so  deceiveth  the  expectation — 

Now  speake  we  of  the  Haven... so  conveniently  profound, 
that  the  greatest  shipps  may  lay  their  sides  to  the  sides  therof, 
for  the  more  easie  receit  and  discharge  of  their  burthen^ — 

On  the  other  side  of  the  haven  (continually  crossed  by  multi- 
tudes of  little  boates,  called  Permagees*',  and  rowed  for  the  most 
part  by  Egyptians)  stands  the  Cittie  of  Galata... surpassing 
Constantinople  in  her  loftie  buildings,  built  by  the  Genoasi — 
At  the  West  end  therof,  the  Grand  Signiors  Gallies  have  a  dry 
station,   and   at   the    East    end   right   against   the    point   of   his 


^  Mr  Edwin  Pears  tells  me  that  female  slaves  continued  to  be  sold  in  Avret 
Bazar  until  about  1830.     See  note  i  on  p.  34. 

^  See  note  2  on  p.  34.  Mr  Edwin  Pears  remarks  that  Bondelmonti  gives  a 
wonderful  series  of  sketches,  showing  all  that  was  sculptured  on  this  Column 
of  Arcadius. 

3  i.e.  the  Burnt  Column.  See  p.  34  f.  Mr  Edwin  Pears  says  that  it  was 
erected  by  Constantine  the  Great  and  that  beneath  it  is  a  chamber  containing 
the  Palladium  brought  from  Rome,  and  a  portion  of  the  Holy  Cross. 

*  See  p.  37.  ^  See  p.  37  f. 

«  See  p.  38. 


SEVENTEENTH   CENTURY  I97 

Serraglio,  called  Tophana  and  Fundacle,  lies  a  number  of  great 
Ordnance  unplanted,  most  of  them  the  spoile  of  Christian  Cities 
and  fortresses,  as  may  appeare  by  their  inscriptions  and  Impreses : 
and  many  of  them  of  an  incredible  greatnesses 

Now  right  against  the  mouth  of  the  haven  on  the  other  side 
of  the  Bosphorus,  stands  Scutari,  a  towne  in  Bythinia — Before 
it  on  a  little  rocke,  a  good  way  off  from  the  shore,  a  Tower  is 
erected,  called  the  Maiden  tower... having  in  it  twenty  peeces  of 
Ordnance.  And  although  the  Sea  be  so  deepe  betweene  it  and 
the  shore  that  a  ship  may  saile  through,  yet  is  it  served  with  fresh 
water,  some  say  brought  thither  by  art,  I  rather  think  from  a 
naturall  fountain. 

The  Black  Sea  is  distant  some  fifteene  miles  from  Constanti- 
nople^, so  named  of  his  blacke  effects This  sea  is  lesse  salt 

then  others,  and  much  annoyed  with  ice  in  the  winter — Where  it 
runneth  into  the  Bosphorus  there  are  two  rocks,  that  formerly 
bare  the  names  Cyaneoe  and  Sympligades.  ...Here  upon  the  top 
of  a  rocke,  supposed  by  some  to  be  one  of  these  and  yet  too 
farre  removed  from  a  fellow  to  be  so,  stands  a  pillar  of  white 
marble,  called  vulgarly  the  pillar  of  Pompey^ — Upon  the  shore 
there  is  a  high  Lanterne,  large  enough  at  the  top  to  containe 
above  threescore  persons,  which  by  night  directeth  the  sailer  into 
the  entrance  of  the  Bosphorus. 

The  Bosphorus  setteth  with  a  strong  current  into  Propontis, 
and  is  in  length  about  twentie  miles  :  where  broadest  a  mile,  and 

in  two  places  but  half  a  mile  over One  of  those  streights  lies 

before  Constantinople,  the  other  five  miles  above  and  a  halfe, 
where  on  Europe  side  there  standeth  a  castle  formerly  Damalis, 
and  now  the  Blacke  Tower. 

The  Hellespont... divideth  Europe  from  Asia*,  in  sundry 
places  not  a  mile  broad,  in  length  about  forty — Three  Leagues 
above  the  entrance,  and  at  the  narrowest  of  this  straight,  stand 
Sestos  and  Abydos^  opposite  to  each  other — Abydos  stands  in 

Asia Sestos  stands  in  Europe Abydos  is  seated 'upon  a  low 

level :  and  Sestos  on  the  side  of  a  Mountain,  yet  descending  to 


^  See  p.  39.  ^  See  p.  20  f. 

^  See  pp.  20  and  191.  ^  See  p.  20. 

^  See  p-  157  and  note. 


198  APPENDIX   E 

the  Sea :  both  bordering  the  same  with  their  castles,  whereof  the 
former  is  four-square,  the  other  triangular^ — 

The  Propontick  Sea^...is  a  hundred  and  fifty  Furlongs  in 
length,  and  about  of  like  latitude. 

Constantinople  is  said  to  containe  seaven  hundred  thousand 
persons,  halfe  of  them  Turkes,  and  the  other  halfe  Jewes  and 
Christians,  and  those  for  the  generall  Grecians.... 

This  Sultan... is,  in  the  year  16 19  about  the  age  of  three  and 
twenty... his  Virgins  of  whom  there  seldom  are  so  few  as  five 
hundred,  kept  in  a  Serraglio  by  themselves,  and  attended  on  onely 
by  women  and  Eunuchs. 


1  This   and  the   succeeding  paragraph   precede   the   description    of  Con- 
stantinople in  Sandys'  work. 
■■^  i.e.,  the  Sea  of  Marmora. 


APPENDIX    F. 

EXTRACTSi  FROM  DES  HAYES'^  VOIAGE  DE  LEVANT^ 

TO  WHICH  IS  ADDED  AN  EXTRACT  FROM  BARGRAVE'S 

VOYAGES  AND  JOURNEYS  {RA  WL.  MS.   C.  799). 

I.      Voiage  de  Levant  Fait  par  le  Commandemetit  du  Roy  en  Fannee 

1621  par  Le  Sr.  D.  C.      Troiseme  edition.     A  Paris  Chez  Adrien 

Taupinart.     Rue  St.  Jacques  a  la  Sphere  1645. 

Belgrade"*,  que  ceux  de  Hongrie  appellent  Albe  Greque  se 
nommoit  anciennement  Taurunum.  De  toutes  les  villes  qui  sont 
aujourd'huy  en  I'obeissance  du  grand  Seigneur,  il  n'y  en  a  point 
apres  Constantinople  qui  soit  si  advantagee  de  la  nature :  Elle  est 
situee  aux  confins  de  Servie,  sur  la  pante  d'une  colline  a  I'endroit 


^  The  extracts  from  the  Voiage  de  Levant  comprise  the  journey  from 
Belgrade  to  Constantinople.  Des  Hayes,  in  162 1,  took  the  same  route  as 
Pindar  and  his  train  had  followed  in  1620,  but  in  the  opposite  direction.  See 
note  6  on  p.  45. 

^  Louis  Des  Hayes,  Baron  de  Courmemin,  son  of  a  governor  of  Montargis, 
held  successively  the  offices  of  page,  councillor  and  major-domo  to  Louis  XIH. 
In  1621,  the  king  sent  him  on  a  mission  to  the  Levant.  Des  Hayes  was 
instructed  to  obtain  the  restoration  to  the  Cordeliers  of  the  holy  places  wrested 
from  them  by  the  Armenians.  He  was  also  to  establish  a  Consul  at  Jerusalem 
and  to  make  rich  votive  offerings  in  the  name  of  the  king  at  the  Holy 
Sepulchre.  The  mission  was  successfully  accomplished  and  the  envoy  returned 
to  France  in  1622.  In  1624,  1626  and  1629  Des  Hayes  was  sent  on  missions 
to  Denmark  and  Sweden,  Persia,  and  Russia.  Later,  he  allied  himself  with 
the  enemies  of  Caidinal  Richelieu,  was  arrested  in  Germany,  taken  to 
Languedoc  and  beheaded  at  Beziers  in  1632. 

3  There  were  three  editions  of  the  Voiage  de  Levant  issued  respectively  in 
1624,  1629  and  1645.  In  his  preface,  the  author  states  that  he  wrote  the 
account  of  his  travels  at  the  king's  command.  Although  the  work  was  issued 
under  the  initials  of  Des  Hayes,  the  fact  that  the  ambassador  is  mentioned 
throughout  the  book  in  the  third  person  has  led  to  the  belief  that  it  was  the 
work  of  some  unknown  secretary,  who  accompanied  him  in  all  his  journeys. 
The  second  and  third  editions  are  practically  identical  and  contain  495  quarto 
pages,  while  the  first  edition  has  only  403  quarto  pages.  The  supplemental 
information,  found  in  the  later  editions,  was  added  after  Des  Hayes'  second  and 
third  voyages  to  Constantinople. 

*  Des  Hayes  reached  Belgrade  on  the  9th  June,  1621.  Mundy  arrived 
there  with  Pindar's  party  on  the  30th  May,   1620. 


200  APPENDIX   F.      EXTRACTS   FROM 

ou  la  Save^  se  descharge  dans  le  Danube,  ce  qui  rend  son 
assiette  admirable.  Du  coste  de  la  Hongrie,  dont  ces  deux 
rivieres  la  separent,  elle  a  de  grandes  plaines,  qui  sont  tellement 
fertiles,  qu'elles  nourriroient  dix  fois  autant  de  peuple  qu'il  y  en  a 
dans  la  ville.  Le  reste  de  ses  environs  est  rempli  de  jardinages, 
qui  rend  sa  demeure  tres-delicieuse :  elle  est  au  quarante-quatriesme 
degre  et  demy  de  latitude,  et  au  quarante-cinquiesme  degre  de 
long.  Et  encore  qu'elle  ne  soit  qu'a  deux  journees  des  montagnes 
d'Esclavonie,  Fair  y  est  neantmoins  fort  tempere',  et  les  saisons  y 
sont  tres-agreables. 

Cette  ville  n'est  point  fermee  de  murailles,  bien  qu'elle  soit 
des  plus  grandes  et  plus  considerables  de  Levant.  De  tous  les 
anciens  bastimens,  il  n'en  reste  presque  aucun  vestige:  et  ceux 
que  les  Turcs  y  ont  fait  depuis  qu'ils  I'habitent  ne  respondent  pas 
a  la  beaute  de  I'assiette:  car  ils  ne  sont  bastis  que  d'ais^  et  n'est 
toutefois  qu'un  seul  estage:  parce  que  la  ville  est  pratique'e  sur  la 
colline,  en  sorte  qu'une  maison  ne  couvre  pas  I'autre,  elles  ont 
toutes  une  veue  tres-agreable.  La  plupart  des  Turcs  demeurent 
dans  le  chasteau,  ou  il  n'est  pas  permis  aux  Chrestiens  de  coucher. 
II  est  le  long  de  la  Save,  entoure'  de  simples  murailles,  sans  aucun 
rempart;  elles  ne  sont  deffendues  que  de  tours  carrees,  avec  un 
fort  petit  fosse  ^,  ils  I'estiment  imprenable;  mais  ils  ne  sont  pas 
capables  de  juger  de  la  force  des  places. 

Or  quoy  que  la  ville  de  Belgrade  soit  abondante  en  toutes 
sortes  de  vivres,  elle  I'est  neantmoins  particulierement  en  poisson 
d'eaue-douce,  plus  qu'aucune  autre  ville  de  I'Europe*:  car  non 
seulement  il  y  en  a  tres  grande  quantite,  mais  aussi  il  s'y  en 
trouve  de  monstreueux,  et  a  si  bon  prix,  que  cela  n'est  pas 
croyable.  Les  marchands  Ragusois  qui  y  sont,  firent  present  au 
Sieur  des  Hayes  d'une  carpe,  qui  avoit  trois  pieds  entre  ceil  et  bat, 
laquelle  ne  leur  coustoit  que  quinze  sols.  II  y  en  a  de  quatre  et 
de  cinq  pieds,  et  des  brochets  qui  en  ont  six:  Ton  nous  asseura 
mesme  que  Ton  y  trouve  des  barbotes  qui  ont  dix  pieds  de  long. 
Tous  les  poissons  qui  se  peschent  en  ce  lieu,  sont  excellens  en 
bonte,  et  merveilleusement  gras,  a  cause  que  la  riviere  a  environ 
deux  pieds  de  vase  sur  la  sable. 

1  See  p.  73. 

^  Mundy   says   that   the   houses    at    Belgrade   were    "generally   made   of 
boards."     See  p.  73. 

^  See  p.  74.  4  See  p.  73. 


DES   HAYES'   VOIAGE   DE   LEVANT  20I 

L'an  mil  cinq  cent  vingt  la  ville  de  Belgrade  fut  prise  sur  les 
Chrestiens  par  Sultan  Soliman\  qui  y  laissa  un  Beglerbey:  mais 
leurs  conquestes  s'estant  estendues  dans  la  Hongrie,  ils  ont 
transfere  la  residence  du  Beglerbey  de  Belgrade  a  Bude,  pour 
estre  plus  proche  de  la  frontiere,  depuis  ces  deux  residences  luy 
sont  demeurees,  et  parce  qu'il  fait  ordinairement  son  sejour  a 
Bude  il  tient  a  Belgrade  un  Caimacam  qui  est  son  Lieutenant'. 

Ceste  ville,  sans  y  comprendre  le  chasteau,  est  aujourd'huy 
pour  la  plus-part  habitee  de  Chrestiens  qui  suivent  la  creance  de 
I'Eglise  Grecque,  lesquels  sont  en  plus  grand  nombre  que  les 
Turcs^  et  neantmoins  il  y  peut  avoir  huict  cens  ames  Catholiques, 
a  qui  les  Sacremens  sont  administres  par  les  Religieux  de  sainct 
Francois,  qui  y  sont  establis,  et  par  des  Peres  Jesuistes. . . . 

Nous  partismes  de  Belgrade  le  troisiesme  de  Juin".  En 
sortant  de  Belgrade,  on  costoye  presque  tousjours  durant  six 
heures  les  agreables  rives  du  Danube,  jusques  a  une  petite  ville 
nommee  par  les  Chrestiens  Grosca,  et  par  les  Turcs  Ichargic", 
qui  veut  dire  petit  chasteau ;  Elle  est  sur  le  Danube,  qui  en  cest 
endroit  a  une  grande  largeur,  encore  qu'il  ne  soit  pas  tout 
ensemble:  car  au  dessus  de  Belgrade,  il  y  a  un  bras  qui  s'en 
separe  jusques  a  la  ville  de  Semendrie,  qui  est  une  journee  au 
dessous.  Si  Ton  vouloit  suivre  le  Danube,  on  pourroit  aller 
jusques  a  cent  lieues  pres  de  Constantinople,  mais  a  cause  que  la 
navigation  en  est  dangereuse  pour  les  arbres  qui  se  rencontrent 
au  milieu  de  son  lit,  on  laisse  ordinairement  la  riviere  a  Belgrade, 
pour  aller  par  terre  a  Constantinople. 

Or  avant  que  je  quitte  les  belles  rives  de  ce  fleuve,  il  faut 
que  je  die  que  c'est  le  plus  grand  et  le  plus  considerable,  non 
seulement  de  1' Europe ^  mais  aussi  de  I'Asie,  et  de  I'Afrique. 
Son  cours  est  de  sept  cens  lieues  Francoises.  II  revolt  soixahte 
rivieres  presques  toutes  navigables.  Et  apres  avoir  arrose  la 
Suawbe,  la  Baviere,  I'Austriche,  la  Hongrie,  la  Servie,  la  Bulgarie, 
et  la  Valaquie,  il  se  descharge  par  sept  bouches  dans  la  mer 


^  Belgrade  was  taken  by  Sultan  Suliman  in  1526.     See  note  4  on  p.  149. 
2  See  p.  75. 

^  Mundy  and  his  party  left  Belgrade  on  the  7th  June  in  the  previous  year. 
See  p.  78. 

^  Mundy  calls  the  place  Gratsco.     See  p.  71. 
^  See  note  6  on  p.  71 ;  see  also  p.  149. 


202  APPENDIX   F.      EXTRACTS   FROM 

Majour  que  ceux  du  pais  appellent  la  mer  noire:  et  a  cela  de 
particulier,  qu'il  va  contre  le  cours  du  Soleil ' — 

Laissants  doncques  le  Danube  a  main  gauche,  nous  entrasmes 
dans  un  pais  tout  rempli  de  bois,  et  a  quatre  heures  de  chemin 
d'Ichargic,  nous  trouvasmes  le  bourg  de  Cola^,  ou  il  y  a  plus  de 
Turcs  que  de  Chrestiens,  d'autant  que  ce  lieu  est  au  milieu  des 
prairies  oCi  les  Turcs  habitent  ordinairement,  a  cause  qu'estans 
presque  tous  faineants,  ils  ne  vivent  que  du  revenu  de  leurs 
troupeaux.  De  Cola  a  la  Palanque  de  Hassan  Bascha^,  il  y  a  six 
heures  de  chemin  tousjours  dans  les  bois.  Ce  bourg  est  habite 
moitie  de  Turcs,  et  moitie  de  Grecs,  et  fut  nostre  second  giste  oii 
nous  commencasmes  a  loger  dans  les  Quiervansaras^ 

Ce  sont  des  edifices  publics  plus  longs  que  larges,  bas, 
environ  a  la  fa^on  des  granges  de  ce  pays-cy  ou  des  halles, 
excepte  qu'il[s]  sont  fermez  de  murailles.  Le  milieu  du  bastiment 
est  une  grande  place  pour  mettre  les  carosses  et  les  chariots,  avec 
les  chevaux  et  les  chameaux:  et  le  reste  qui  regne  a  I'entour  des 
murailles  est  releve  de  trois  pieds  ou  environ,  et  large  de  six.  Ce 
lieu  ainsi  releve  sert  de  lict,  de  table,  et  de  cuisine :  car  contre  les 
murailles  il  y  a  de  petites  chemine'es  a  huict  pieds  les  unes 
des  autres:  de  sorte  que  sans  bouger  de  ce  lieu,  chacun  peut 
avoir  I'ceil  sur  son  bagage  et  sur  ses  chevaux,  qui  sont  vis  a  vis  des 
cheminees.  Les  plus  grands  Seigneurs  de  Turquie  sont  reduits  a 
loger  de  cette  sorte,  quand  le  mauvais  temps  les  empesche  de 
camper:  ce  qui  nous  faisoit  estonner,  car  il  y  a  une  si  grande 
puanteur  a  cause  des  chevaux  et  des  chameaux  qui  sont  pesle- 
mesle  avec  les  hommes  que  I'on  n'y  sgauroit  durer.  La  pluspart 
des  Quiervansaras  qui  sont  de  Belgrade  a  Constantinople,  sont 
fort  spacieux:  ils  ont  vingt  ou  trente  cheminees  pour  la  commodite 
du  logement,  et  il  y  peut  tenir  cent  cinquante  chevaux  et  vingt 
carosses.  II  y  en  a  qui  ont  une  petite  chambre  sur  la  porte,  qui 
ne  sert  presque  point;  car  d'ordinaire  les  Turcs  ne  veulent  pas 
s'esloigner  de  leur  bagages.  L'on  ne  trouve  aucune  chose  en  ces 
Quiervansaras,  de  fa9on  que  si  l'on  ne  porte  dequoy  se  coucher,  il 
faut  dormir  sur  le  pave:  mais  ceux  du  pays  ne  ressentent  aucune- 
ment  ces  incommoditez,  parce  que  dans  leurs  maisons  ils  ne  sont 


^  See  note  i  on  p.  150.  ^  See  p.  71. 

*  Mundy  also  "lodged  in  a  large  Cane"  at  this  place.     See  p.  71. 


DES   HAYES'   VOIAGE   DE   LEVANT  203 

gueres  mieux  accomoder.  lis  portent  avec  eux  un  tapis  sur  la 
croupe  de  leur  cheval,  qui  leur  sert  de  matelas,  et  mettent  la  celle 
sous  leur  teste:  et  au  lieu  de  couverture,  ils  se  servent  d'un 
grand  manteau  appelle  Jamer'ouc,  qu'ils  portent  contre  la  pluye. 
Estans  arrivez  dans  ces  lieux  publics,  s'ils  veulent  manger,  ils  font 
du  feu  pour  apprester  leur  soupe  qui  consiste  en  un  peu  de  ris 
bouilly  avec  de  I'eau,  ce  qui  est  un  grand  festin  pour  eux,  n'en 
ayant  pas  tous  les  jours:  car  d'ordinaire,  ils  ne  mangent  que 
des  aulx  et  des  oignons.  II  n'y  a  aucune  separation  dans  ces 
Quiervansaras :  de  sorte  qu'un  chacun  voit  tout  ce  que  fait  son 
compagnon,  si  I'obscurite  de  la  nuict  ne  le  cached  En  fin  je 
n'y  trouve  aucune  commodite,  si  ce  n'est  qu'ayant  dormi  a 
couvert,  Ton  est  exempt  de  contester  le  lendemain  avec  I'hoste. 
Nous  ne  logions  que  le  moins  qu'ils  nous  estoit  possible  dans 
ces  lieux  sales  et  incommodes:  car  le  Sieur  des  Hayes  campoit, 
avec  ses  pavilions,  lors  que  le  temps  le  permettoit^  ou  bien  il 
loggeoit  chez  quelque  Chrestien'^,  dont  nous  nous  trouvions 
beaucoup  mieux,  parce  que  parmi  un  si  grand  nombre  de 
personnes  qui  sont  dans  ces  Quiervansaras,  il  y  a  tousjours  tant 
de  bruit,  qu'il  est  impossible  de  reposer :  si  bien  qu'il  arrivoit 
fort  souvent  quand  nous  y  logions,  que  nous  n'avions  pas  encore 
commence  a  dormir  qu'il  falloit  partir,  dautant  que  les  Turcs 
partent  d'ordinaire  a  deux  ou  trois  heures  apres  minuit,  afin 
d'arriver  de  bonne  heure  au  giste. 

Le  lendemain  qui  fut  I'unziesme  de  Juin,  nous  allasmes 
coucher  a  Yagodna'*,  ayant  marche  douze  heures  et  demie  dans 
des  bois  semblables  a  ceux  des  jours  precedens.  Nous  nous 
arrestasmes  au  milieu  du  chemin  pour  disner  aupres  d'un  village 
appelle  Baticina^  qui  est  habite  de  Chrestiens. 

Yagodna  est  un  grand  bourg  bien  situe,  ou  il  y  a  plus  de 
Turcs  que  de  Chrestiens,  a  cause  que  la  plus-part  des  Spahis  de 
Timar,  qui  sont  en  la  contree,  y  demeurent. 

Le  jour  suivant,  a  deux  heures  de  Yagodna^  nous  trouvasmes 
la   riviere   de    Morava®,  qui   venant   des   hautes    montagnes    de 


^  See  Mundy's  description  of  a  "Cane"  on  p.  52  f. 

2  Pindar  and  his  train  also  camped  in  the  open  ground  when  possible.     See 
pp.  46,  47,  48,  49,  52,  etc. 

^  See  pp.  54  and  60.  *  See  p.  70. 

^  This  is  Mundy's  "  bigg  river  without  a  Bridge."     See  p.  70. 


204  APPENDIX   F.      EXTRACTS   FROM 

Bulgaria,  passe  par  le  milieu  de  la  Servie,  et  se  va  descharger  dans 
le  Danube.  Elle  est  environ  de  la  grandeur  de  la  Marne,  mais 
beaucoup  plus  rapide:  nous  demeurasmes  fort  long-temps  a  faire 
passer  nostre  bagage',  parce  que  de  fortune  il  s'y  rencontra  un 
grand  embaras  de  chariots,  et  qu'avec  cela  les  basteliers  y  sont 
tres  maladroits:  de  sorte  que  cependant  nous  fusmes  contraints 
de  nous  arrester  a  un  village  nomme  Paraquin^,  qui  est  proche  de 
la  riviere,  et  qui  est  presque  tout  habite  de  Turcs.  Entre 
Paraquin  et  Razena^,  oii  nous  allasmes  coucher,  I'on  voit  les 
vestiges  d'un  ancien  chemin  avec  plusieurs  inscriptions,  mais  telle- 
ment  effacees  que  Ton  n'en  peut  rien  recognoistre,  sinon  que 
ce  sont  des  caracteres  Latins.  Nous  ne  peusmes  faire  ce  jour-la 
que  neuf  heures  de  chemin,  a  cause  du  temps  que  nous  perdismes 
au  passage  de  la  riviere. 

Le  lendemain  nous  marchasmes  unze  heures  dans  les  bois^:  et 
apres  avoir  passe  a  gue  la  petite  riviere  du  Banaraica,  ou  nous 
dinasmes  au  milieu  d'une  prairie,  nous  arrivasmes  a  Nice,  qui  est 
une  petite  ville°,  ou  demeurent  tous  les  Spahis  de  Timar,  qui  sont 
aux  environs:  outre  lesquels  y  a  des  Janissaires  et  des  Spahis  de 
la  porte,  qui  y  sont  en  garnison,  tant  pour  la  seurete  des  chemins, 
que  pour  tenir  en  subjection  dix  mille  Chrestiens  qui  sont  a  deux 
lieues  a  la  ronde  de  cette  ville":  on  y  voit  de  grandes  ruines^  qui 
tesmoignent  qu'elle  a  este  en  plus  grande  consideration  parmi  les 
Chrestiens,  qu'elle  n'est  maintenant  parmy  eux.  La  riviere  de 
Nice,  appellee  par  ceux  du  pais  Nicava^,  qui  vient  des  montagnes 
voisines  de  Bulgarie,  passe  aupres  de  la  ville,  dont  elle  emprunte 
le  nom,  et  se  va  descharger  a  deux  heures  au  dessous  dans  la 
riviere  de  Morava :  nous  aprismes  de  ceux  du  lieu  qu'elle  separe 
la  Servie  de  la  Bulgarie:  Nice  est  encore  au  gouvernement  de 
Bude,  mais  passe  la  riviere.  Ton  entre  dans  celuy  de  Grece....Le 
pais  est  diversifie  en  collines  et  vallons,  qui  sont  presque  tous 
remplis  de  bois,  bien  qu'ils  soient  assez  fertiles;  mais  les  habitants 


^  Pindar's  party  had  the  same  experience.     See  p.  70. 
^  i.e.  Paratjin  or  Barachin  Palanka.     See  p.  70. 
^  Mundy  calls  this  place  Roshneah.     See  p.  70. 

*  Mundy   describes   the  road  between   Nice  and   Rashan  as    "faire   and 
plaine,  although  desert  and  full  of  woods."     See  p.   70. 
^  See  p.  69.  ^  See  p.  68. 


DES    HAYES'   VOIAGE   DE   LEVANT  205 

n'ont  pas  le  courage  de  travailler,  parce  que  les  Turcs  leur  ravissent 
tout  ce  qu'ils  ont^ 

La  Serve  est  presque  toute  habitee  de  Chrestiens  qui  suivent 
I'Eglise  Grecque,  n'ayant  des  Turcs  qu'aux  bourgs  et  aux  villages 
qui  sont  sur  le  grand  chemin,  ou  ils  se  retirent  volontiers\  II  y  a 
encores  environ  cinq  mille  Catholiques  Romains  qui  vivent  con- 
fuse'ment  parmy  les  autres  Chrestiens:  mais  ils  sont  tous  si 
pauvres  et  si  miserables,  que  la  pluspart  de  leurs  maisons  ne  sont 
que  comme  gabions  couverts  qu'ils  transportent  d'un  lieu  a  autre, 
pour  eviter  la  tyrannie  de  ces  infidelles :  Et  neantmoins  il  y  fait 
fort  bon  vivre,  car  les  volailles  n'y  content  que  dix-huict  deniers, 
et  les  moutons  quinze  sols,  mais  pour  le  pain  et  le  vin,  il  en  faut 
faire  provision  aux  villes  et  bourgs,  pource  qu'il  ne  s'en  trouve  pas 
de  bon  aux  villages. 

Le  jour  suivant,  qui  fut  le  vingtieme  de  Juin,  nous  partismes 
de  Nice:  et  parce  qu'il  faut  passer  de  fascheuses  et  dangereuses 
montagnes,  celuy  qui  commandoit  a  Nice  nous  donna  vingt  Turcs 
a  cheval  pour  nous  accompagner^  En  sortant  de  Nice,  Ton  entre 
dans  une  plaine  marescageuse,  qui  est  environnee  de  montagnes^, 
en  laquelle  il  croist  abondance  de  ris  rouge,  qui  n'est  pas  du  tout 
si  bon  que  le  blanc.  A  la  sortie  de  cette  plaine,  nous  montasmes 
une  montagne  assez  difficile  pour  les  carosses:  et  apres  avoir 
marche  neuf  heures  nous  arrivasmes  en  un  village  appelle  la 
Pallanque  de  Mehemet  Bascha^...Nous  allasmes  encore  coucher 
a  Cruchismet,  qui  est  a  une  heure  du  chemin  au  de-la:  ce  village 
est  tout  habite  de  Chrestiens  ^  Les  mauvais  traittemens  qu'ils 
regoivent  des  Turcs  sont  cause  qu'il  y  en  a  plusieurs  qui 
s'assemblent  pour  voler  sur  le  grand  chemin':  c'est  pourquoy  en 
la  plus-part  des  villages  de  Servie  et  de  Bulgarie,  il  y  a  un  lieu 
enferme  de  palissades,  revestues  de  torches,  qu'ils  appellent 
Pallanques*',  ou  les  habitans  se  retirent  quand  ils  ont  advis  que 


^  See  p.  67  f. 

^  Pindar  was  also  provided  with  a  guard  between  Nice  and  Palanca. 
See  p.   69. 

^  See  Mundy's  description  of  this  district  on  p.  69. 

*  See  p.  68,  where  Mundy  calls  the  place  simply  Palanca. 

^  The  village  was  abandoned  when  Mundy  passed  through  it  in  1620. 
See  p.  67. 

®  See  Mundy's  description  of  a  Palanca  on  p.  68. 


2o6  APPENDIX   F.      EXTRACTS   FROM 

ces  voleurs  tiennent  la  campagne,  qui  sont  aucunefois  trois  cents 
de  compagnie  afin  de  resister  aux  Turcs  qui  les  pourroient 
attaquer:  car  quand  ils  sont  pris,  on  les  empalle  sur  le  grand 

chemin^  sans  autre  forme  de  proces 

Le  lendemain  vingt  et  uniesme,  nous  descendismes  la  mon- 
tagne  couverte  de  bois,  que  nous  avions  monte  le  jour  auparavant, 
au  bas  de  la  quelle  est  une  grande  plaine  tres-fertile,  qui  porte  le 
nom  d'un  bourg  appelle  Pirot  en  Esclavon,  et  en  Turc  Cherquioi^, 
ou  nous  disnasmes  dans  une  prairie  le  long  d'un  ruisseau:  apres 
ayant  marche  .en  toute  la  journee  treze  heures  et  demie,  nous 
arrivasmes  en  un  village  habite  de  Chrestiens,  nomme  Dragoman  ^ 
Les  cochers  qui  nous  conduisoient  s'esgarerent,  et  au  lieu  de  nous 
mener  droit  a  Dragoman  prindrent  le  chemin  d'un  petit  village  de 
Chrestiens*,  qui  nous  voyant  arriver,  commencerent  a  se  retirer  au 
haut  des  montagnes,  emportant  ce  qu'ils  avoient  de  meilleur:  de 
sorte  qu'ils  n'y  eut  jamais  moyen  d'en  faire  revenir  pas  un,  pource 
qu'ils  croyoient  que  nous  fussions  des  Officiers  du  grand  Seigneur, 
qui  ne  les  vont  voir  que  pour  les  mal  traiter^  Le  jour  suivant, 
vingt-deuxiesme  de  Juin,  nous  arrivasmes  a  Sophie,  ayant  marche' 
huict  heures  le  long  d'une  plaine  encore  plus  fertile  que  la 
precedente,  mais  beaucoup  plus  desagreable,  parce  qu'elle  n'est 
environnee  que  de  roches®.  EUe  a  quatorze  heures  de  long  et 
quatorze  de  large.  C'est  I'endroict  de  la  Bulgarie  le  plus  peuple, 
car  Ton  y  conte  trois  cens  soixante  villages,  tous  habitez  de 
Chrestiens. ...Cette  province  est  beaucoup  plus  montueuse  et  plus 
fertile  que  la  Servie:  mais  elle  n'est  pas  si  agreable  ni  si  diver- 
sifie'e.  Les  montagnes  sont  tellement  hautes  que  la  plus-part 
sont  couvertes  de  neges  neuf  mois  de  I'annee.  Elles  enferment 
comme  j'ay  deja  dit,  plusieurs  grandes  plaines  qui  sont  fort  fertiles 
et  abondantes.  II  y  fait  encores  meilleur  vivre  qu'en  Servie:  et 
neantmoins  il  n'y  a  lieu  en  toute  la  Turquie  oil  Ton  mange  de  si 
mauvais  pain,  car  il  n'est  cuit  que  dessous  les  cendres'',  et  est 


^  See  p.  71  for  an  instance  of  the  staking  of  a  highway  robber. 

^  See  p.  66. 

■^  Mundy's  halting-place  between  Sophia  and  Sharkoi  was  Zaribrod. 

*  Possibly  this  was  Mundy's  "Zarebrode,  a  little  village."     Seep.  66. 

*  See  p.  67. 

®  See  Mundy's  remarks  on  these  "Rockie  Hills"  on  p.  66. 

^  See  p.  77  and  Bargrave's  remarks  at  the  end  of  this  Appendix. 


DES   HAYES    VOIAGE   DE   LEVANT  20/ 

si  mal  pestri,  que  Ton  est  quelques  jours  avant  de  s'y  pouvoir 
accoustumer. 

La  langue  vulgaire  du  pais  est  I'Esclavone',  qui  est  encore 
entendue  en  plusieurs  endroits  de  la  Romanic.  Ceste  Province  est 
Tune  des  plus  habitees  de  Chrestiens  qui  soient  en  Turquie,  outre 
ceux  qui  suivent  I'Eglise  Grecque  dont  il  y  a  trente  fois  autant 
que  de  Turcs :  il  y  peut  avoir  quinze  mille  Catholiques  Romains 
sujets  a  I'Evesque  de  Ciproa,  ils  habitent  en  cette  partie  de 
Bulgarie,  qui  est  pres  du  Danube.  On  peut  juger  aisement  que  lors 
que  ce  pais  estoit  libre,  les  habitans  estoient  fort  somptueux  en 
habits:  car  encores  aujourd'huy  quoy  que  les  Turcs  ne  leur 
laissent  rien,  les  femmes  sont  proprement  vestues.  Elles  pendent 
a  I'entour  de  leurs  testes  indifferemment  toutes  les  pieces,  tant 
d'argent  que  de  cuivre  qu'elles  peuvent  trouver":  de  sorte  que 
celles  qui  en  ont  le  plus  sont  estimees  les  plus  braves :  Elles 
entrelassent  aussi  leurs  cheveux  avec  un  tel  artifice,  qu'on  a  bien 
de  la  peine  a  recognoistre  la  tissure  de  I'ouvrage :  ils  leur  vont  par 
derriere  jusques  a  la  ceinture,  et  n'y  touchent  jamais  depuis 
qu'elles  les  ont  ainsi  agencez^  Leurs  Chemises  sont  brodees  a 
I'entour  des  fentes  de  fil  de  di verses  couleurs*.  Et  comme  elles 
voyoient  les  nostres,  elles  s'estonnoient  de  nostre  modestie,  et 
dequoy  nous  ne  les  enrichissions  point  avec  ce  meslange  de 
couleurs. . . . 

La  ville  de  Sophie,  capitalle  de  la  Bulgarie,  est  situee  dans 
cette  grande  plaine  descrite  cy-dessus^,  environ  une  demie-heure 
de  chemin  de  la  plus  haute  montagne.  Quelques-uns  ont  estime 
que  c'est  la  Tibisque  de  Ptolomee :  mais  nous  apprismes  de  ceux 
de  la  ville  qu'a  une  portee  de  mousquet,  vers  le  Sud-oest,  ou  le 
Beche,  on  voit  I'endroit  ou  estoit  autre  fois  la  ville  de  Sardique. 
Elle  est  selon  I'opinion  plus  vrayesemblable  au  quarante-troisiesme 
degre  et  demy  de  latitude  et  au  quarante-neuf  de  longitude :  mais 
les  hautes  montagnes  qu'elle  a  au  Midy  sont  cause  que  I'Hyver  y 
dure  plus  que  I'Este,  et  qu'il  y  pleut  fort  souvent.     Elle  n'est  point 

^  Mundy  says  of  the  Bulgarians,  "Theire  Language  neither  Turkish  nor 
Greeke,  but  like  the  Russian."  See  p.  78.  See  also  Bargrave's  comments  at 
the  end  of  this  Appendix. 

^  See  p.  76  and  Bargrave's  remarks  at  the  end  of  this  Appendix. 
"*  See  p.  76. 

*  See  p.  77  and  Bargrave's  remarks  at  the  end  of  this  Appendix. 
^  See  ante,  p.  206,  and  p.  63. 


208  APPENDIX   F.      EXTRACTS   FROM 

fermeede  murailles,  et  n'est  arosee  que  d'un  grand  ruisseau  qui 
passe  par  dedans  les  rues,  les  plus  marchandes  sont  couvertes,  et 
la  plus-part  des  maisons  sont  esloignees  les  unes  des  autres,  estant 
presque  toutes  accompagnees  de  Jardins,  ce  qui  fait  que  la  ville  se 
montre  fort  grande.  La  Mosque'e  principale  qui  est  tres-belle 
servoit  autrefois  d'Eglise  aux  Chrestiens  sous  le  nom  de  saihcte 
Sophie,  c'est  a  dire  la  Sapience  divine,  et  quelques-uns  croient  que 
cette  Eglise  ait  donne  le  nom  de  Sophie  a  la  ville,  qui  auparavant 
s'appelloit  Sardique. 

Hors  cette. Mosque'e  elle  n'a  rien  de  considerable;  car  elle  est 
encore  plus  mal  bastie  que  les  autres  villes  de  Turquie,  et  la 
demeure  en  est  si  mal-saine,  a  cause  des  marecages  qui  I'environ- 
nent  du  coste  du  Septemtrion,  qu'elle  ne  se  fust  pas  conservee 
comme  elle  est,  n'estoit  que  le  Beglerbey  de  la  Grece  y  fait  sa 
residence '....Or  dautant  que  cette  ville  est  le  siege  du  gouverneur 
de  la  Grece,  il  ne  sera  point  hors  de  propos  de  dire  que  le 
gouvernement  de  la  Grece,  que  les  Turcs  appellent  Romeli"  Beg- 
lerbeilic,  est  le  plus  honnorable  et  le  premier  de  toute  la  Turquie, 
tant  pource  que  le  grand  Seigneur  tient  le  siege  de  son  Empire  a 
Constantinople,  qui  est  dans  son  estendue,  que  pour  le  grand 
nombre  de  Provinces  qui  lui  sont  sujettes.  Car  ce  Beglerbey 
commande  a  la  Romanic,  a  la  Bulgarie,  a  la  Macedoine,  a  I'Albanie, 
a  I'Epire,  a  I'Acaye :  et  a  la  Moree :  il  y  a  vingt  Sangiacheis  sous 
lui,  qui  sont  gouvernears  particuliers  de  Provinces,  et  commandent 
a  trente  trois  mille  soldats  entretenus  qui  sont  sous  sa  charge. 

Nous  partismes  de  Sophie  le  vingt-quatriesme  de  Juin,  et  con-  • 
tinuasmes  nostre  chemin  par  le  mesme  grande  plaine....A  trois 
heures  de  Sophie  nous  passames  sur  un  pont  de  bois  la  petite 
riviere  d'Iscar  qui  prend  sa  source  au  pied  du  mont  Rodope.  Et 
apres  avoir  fait  encore  environ  quatre  heures  de  chemin,  nous 
sortismes  de  cette  grande  plaine  et  entrasmes  dans  des  coUines, 
ou  ayant  marche  quatre  bonnes  heures  et  rencontre  plusieurs 
villages  nous  arrivasmes  a  Ictiman^:  en  ce  bourg  il  y  a  plusieurs 
Turcs  encore  que  tous  les  villages  circonvoisins  soient  habitez  de 
Chrestiens,  les  Turcs  de  toute  la  Province  se  retirans  volontiers  a 
Sophie,  a  Cerquioy  ou  a  Ictiman. 


1  See  p.  63.  ^  See  p.  62  and  note. 

^  See  p.  61. 


DES   HAYES    VOIAGE   DE   LEVANT  209 

En  quittant  la  plaine  de  Sophie  nous  commen^asmes  a  des- 
couvrir  a  main  droicte  le  sommet  du  mont  Rodope^  qui  estoit 
encore  couvert  de  neiges.  Cette  montagne,  a  ce  que  I'ceil  en  peut 
juger,  n'est  qu'une  branche  du  mont  Hoemus,  dont  elle  ne  differe 
qu'en  ce  qu'elle  est  beaucoup  plus  haute.  C'est  le  lieu  oCi 
I'antiquite  veut  qu'Orphe'e  ayt  fait  entendre  autrefois  la  douceur 
de  sa  harpe  dont  la  memoire  s'est  perpetuee  jusques  en  ce  siecle, 
car  il  y  a  sept  fontaines  sur  le  plus  haut  de  la  montagne  que  ceux 
du  pais  appellent  encores  aujourd'huy  les  sept  fontaines  d'Orphee, 
estimans  que  les  larmes  qu'il  respandit  apres  avoir  perdu  pour  la 
seconde  fois  sa  femme  Euridice  donnerent  commencement  a  ces 
sources-... 

Le  vendredi  vingt-cinquiesme  le  Sieur  des  Hayes  prit  quelques 
Turcs  pour  nous  accompagner,  en  passant  la  montagne  qui  est  assez 
fascheuse,  pour  les  carosses  principalement,  aupres  d'un  grand 
village  de  Chrestiens  qu'ils  appellent  Capigi  Dervent^,  c'est  a  dire 
portier  de  la  montagne ;  apres  avoir  emploie  sept  heures  a  monter 
et  a  descendre,  nous  arrivasmes  en  un  grand  village  nomme  par 
les  Turcs  Jancoli,  et  par  les  habitans  Novocelo'*,  qui  est  le  premier 
de  la  Romanic,  comme  Capigi  est  le  dernier  de  Bulgarie:  et  aiant 
encore  marche  quatre  heures  le  long  de  la  riviere  de  Marissa,  nous 
trouvasmes  un  grand  bourg  nomme  Basargic^,  ou  il  y  a  un  fort 
beau  Quiervansara  basti  par  Hibraim  Bascha. 

Cette  montagne  qui  separe  la  Bulgarie  de  la  Romanic,  est 
appellee  par  les  Italiens  la  Chaisne  du  monde,  et  par  les  Turcs 
Dervent,  qui  est  le  nom  de  toutes  les  montagnes  covertes  de  bois, 
comme  Balkan  est  celuy  des  rochers  tout  nuds  :  c'est  celle  que  les 
anciens  ont  cogneue  sous  le  nom  d'Hoemus.  Ces  passages  sont 
grandement  perilleux;  aussi  ceux  qui  commandent  pour  le  grand 
Seigneur  dans  toute  ces  Provinces  y  mettent  si  bon  ordre,  qu'aux 
advenues  des  montagnes  il  y  a  des  hommes,  qui  avec  des  tambours 
advertissent  les  passants  de  prendre  garde  a  eux  quand  il  y  a 
nouvelles  de  voleurs^  mesmes  aux  endroits  plus  dangereux  il  y  a 
des  soldats  destinez  pour  accompagner  ceux  qui  passent,  sans 
qu'ils  soient  obligez  a  leur  rien  donner''. 

1  See  note  9  on  p.  61 ;  see  also  p.  152.  ^  See  p.  152. 

^  The  "  Cappeekeoy  "  of  Mundy.     See  p.  61. 

*  See  p.  60  f.  and  note  5  on  p.  60. 

^  Tatar  Bazarjik.     See  p.  60. 

6  See  p.  61  f.  ^  See  p.  66. 

M.  14 


2IO  APPENDIX   F.      EXTRACTS   FROM 

Le  Samedi  vingt-sixiesme,  apres  avoir  marche  six  heures  dans 
une  plaine,  ayant  tousjours  la  riviere  de  Marissa  a  main  droite 
nous  arrivasmes  a  Phillippopoli,  que  les  Turcs  appellent  Philiba^ 
II  y  a  le  long  du  chemin  plusieurs  butes  de  terre,  qu'ils  estiment 
estre  les  sepultures  de  quelques-uns  de  leurs  ennemis,  que  leurs 
ancestres  ont  defaits  en  ceste  plained 

La  villa  de  Philippopoli  est  dans  la  Romanie,  situee  sur  le  herd 
de  la  riviere  de  Marissa,  au  pied  de  quelques  coUines  qui  sont 
destache'es  des  montagnes^.  Elle  n'est  point  fermee  de  murailles: 
la  riviere  la  borne  du  coste  du  Septemtrion,  et  ces  collines  enfer- 
ment  quasi  tout  le  reste :  aussi  ne  la  scavroit-on  rendre  forte, 
estant  comande'e  de  tous  costez.  Son  nom  tesmoigne  qu'elle  a 
este  bastie  par  Philippe  de  Macedonia,  pere  d'Alexandre :  mais 
elle  est  tellement  changee,  qu'il  n'y  reste  plus  aucune  marque 
de  son  fondateur... 

Le  jour  suivant,  qui  fut  le  vingt-septiesme  de  Juin,  ayant 
marche  neuf  heures  dans  une  plaine  assez  fertile,  comme  le  sont 
toutes  celles  de  la  Romanie,  nous  arrivasmes  a  Cayali'*,  qui  est  un 
grand  village  tout  habite  de  Chrestiens  qui  se  servent  encore  de  la 
langue  Esclavone. 

Le  Lundy  vingt-huictiesme,  nous  allasmes  coucher  a  Her- 
rnanU",  qui  est  a  dix  heures  de  chemin  de  Cayali :  c'est  un  bourg 
oti  il  y  a  quelques  Turcs,  aupres  duquel  est  un  grand  village  habite 
de  Chrestiens. 

Le  Mardy  vingt-neufiesme  de  Juin,  nous  repassasmes  la  riviere 
de  Marissa,  sur  un  petit  pont  de  pierre,  basty  par  Mustapha 
Bascha*' :  et  apres  avoir  marche  I'espace  de  dix  heures  dans  un 
pais  plain,  presque  tousjours  sur  le  bord  de  la  mesme  riviere,  nous 
arrivasmes  a  Andrinople. . . . 

Au  reste,  ceux  qui  voyagent  par  la  Turquie  tirent  de  grands 
advantages  de  la  charite'  des  Lures... la  plupart  de  ceux  qui  sont 
riches  taschent  a  reparer  le  mal  qu'ils  commettent  durant  leur  vie, 
en  faisant  des  fondations  sur  les  grands  chemins,  pour  la  commo- 
dity publique Pour  I'ordinaire  ils  font  bastir  des  Mosquees — 


1  See  p.  54 f.  "  See  p.  i-,^.  ^ggep.  55. 

^  The  "Cayalucke"  of  Mundy.     See  p.  54. 

^  See  p.  52. 

*  See  p.  5 1  f.  for  the  bridge  and  its  story. 


DES   HAYES    VOIAGE   DE   LEVANT  211 

Les  autres  bastissent  des  QuiervansarasS  avec  des  hopitaux,  ou 
les  passans,  de  quelque  Religion  qu'ils  soient,  peuvent  estre  nouris 
trois  jours  durant.  II  y  en  a  plusieurs  sur  le  chemin  de  Belgrade 
a  Constantinople,  ou  quand  nous  y  logions  on  nous  apportait  k 
chacun  une  portion.  Ceux  qui  n'ont  pas  moyen  de  faire  une  si 
grande  despense,  font  venir  de  I'eau  sur  le  grand  chemin^  ou  font 
bastir  des  ponts^  pour  le  commodite  de  ceux  qui  passent. 

La  villa  d'Andrinople  avant  que  d'estre  augmentee,  et  comme 
rebastie  par  I'Empereur  Hadrian  (qui  luy  donna  son  nom)  s'appel- 
loit  Oreste^  Elle  est  assise  sur  le  haut  et  sur  la  pante  d'une 
colline,  a  Fendroit  oh  la  riviere  de  Tunze  et  celle  de  Harde 
perdent  leur  nom  dans  celle  de  Marissa*.... 

Le  sejour  qu'ils  [les  Othomans]  y  ont  fait  a  este  cause  que  la 
ville  s'est  beaucoup  accreue  au  de-la  de  I'enceinte  de  I'Empereur 
Hadrian,  que  Ton  voit  encores  aujourd'huy,  et  qui  se  trouve  en 
quelques  endroits  au  milieu  de  la  ville.  Les  bastiments  particuliers 
sont  assez  beaux  pour  le  pais.  Quand  aux  edifices  publics,  il  y  a 
un  Besestan  tout  voMe  qui  est  tres-beau,  c'est  comme  une  halle  ou 
Ton  vend  des  estoffes  :  le  lieu  ou  les  Cordonniers  tiennent  leurs 
boutiques  est  aussi  tout  voiite,  et  fort  bien  basti.  II  y  a  cela  de 
particulier  en  toutes  les  villes  de  Turquie,  que  tous  les  artisans 
d'un  mesme  mestier  demeurent  en  mesme  endroit.  Au  plus  haut 
de  la  ville  est  une  superbe  Mosquee,  que  Sultan  Soliman  a  fait 
bastir.  Si  Ton  veut  adjouster  a  cela  le  Serrail*,  qui  est  en  une 
assiete  tres-agreable,  et  un  beau  pont  de  pierre,  qui  a  six  arches": 
on  ne  trouvera  point  de  ville  en  Turquie  apres  Constantinople  oil 
il  y  ait  de  plus  beaux  edifices  publics. . . . 

La  ville  d'Andrinople  est  encore  sous  le  Beglerbey,  ou  Gouver. 
neur  de  la  Grece,  que  les  Turcs  appellent  Romeli  Beglerbey®:... 
II  y  a  pour  la  garde  de  la  ville  quelques  Janissaires  et  quelques 
Spahis",  qui  obeissent  seulement  a  leurs  Chefs,  et  ne  recognoissent 
au  surplus  que  leur  Aga,  qui  est  aupres  de  la  personne  du  grand 
Seigneur — 

Apres  avoir  demeure  un  jour  entier  a  Andrinople,  nous  en 
partismes  le  Jeudy,  premier  jour  de  juillet,  sur  les  dix  heures  :  et 
pour  regler  nos  journees,  nous  ne  marchasmes  que  quatre  heures 


1  See  p.  52  f.  2  See  p.  52.  »  See  p.  155. 

^  See  p.  49.  ^  See  p.  62. 


See  p.  67  and  note. 


14 — 2 


212  APPENDIX   F.      EXTRACTS   FROM 

jusques  a  Absa\  ou  nous  couchasmes  :  c'est  un  petit  bourg  habite 
de  Turcs,  oil  il  y  a  neantmoins  une  belle  Mosquee,  et  un  grand 
Quiervansara,  couvert  de  plomb,  qu'un  des  principaux  Tresoriers 
du  pais  a  fait  bastir  pour  I'expiation  de  ses  fautes.  La  chaleur 
nous  contraignit  a  changer  I'ordre  de  notre  voyage,  et  a  nous  servir 
de  la  nuit  au  lieu  du  jour,  ce  que  les  Turcs  font  ordinairement ; 
mais  davantage  en  Asie  et  en  Afrique,  ou  les  chaleurs  sont  plus 
grandes. 

Nous  partismes  d'Absa  un  peu  devant  minuit  et  apres  avoir 
marche  jusques  au  Soleil  Levant,  nous  fismes  repaistre  nos  chevaux 
dans  un  pre  qui  se  rencontra,  usants  de  la  liberte  publique  :  car  en 
tous  les  Estats  du  Turc,  Ton  trouve  ainsi  le  long  des  chemins  de 
grandes  prairies  ou  les  Chrestiens  aussi  bien  que  les  Turcs  peuvent 
faire  repaistre  leurs  chevaux  sans  rien  paier.  Apres  avoir  demeure 
la  quelque  temps,  nous  allasmes  disner  a  un  village  nomme 
Babaesqui^,  et  de-la  coucher  a  Bergase^  ayant  marche  unze  heures 
en  tout.  II  y  a  encores  en  ce  bourg  une  fort  belle  Mosquee,  et  un 
grand  Quiervansara,  que  Mustapha  Bascha  a  fait  bastir,  et  ou  il  a 
laisse  tant  de  revenu,  que  tous  les  passans  y  sont  nourris  un  jour 
entier  pour  I'honneur  de  Dieu  ;  bien  que  nous  fussions  defraiez  aux 
despens  du  grand  Seigneur,  on  ne  laissa  pas  pourtant  de  nous 
apporter  a  chacun  un  pain,  du  ris,  et  du  mouton. ... 

Nous  partismes  de  Bergase  environ  a  unze  heures  du  soir  :  apres 
avoir  marche  dix  heures,  et  fait  repaistre  nos  chevaux  dans  les 
prairies,  nous  arrivasmes  a  un  bourg  nomme  Chiourli^,  ou  Selim 
perdit  la  bataille  qu'il  donna  contre  son  Pere  Bajazet.  On  voit  en 
ce  lieu  tant  de  tortues,  que  la  terre  en  est  presque  toute  couverte  a 
cause  que  les  Grecs  ni  les  Turcs  n'en  mangent  point. . . . 

Nous  partismes  de  Chiourli  a  six  heures  du  matin  le  quatriesme 
de  Juillet.  Ayant  chemine  quatre  heures,  nous  rencontrasmes  les 
vestiges  d'un  canal  et  d'une  muraille....Trois  heures  apres,  nous 
arrivasmes  a  Selivree^,  qui  est  sur  le  rivage  de  la  mer  de  Marmora. 
Tout  le  pais  qui  est  depuis  Andrinople,  jusques  a  la  mer  est  fort 
desagreable  :  on  ne  trouve  que  de  grandes  plaines  sans  arbres  qui 
ennuyent  infiniment*. 


'  See  p.  49.  2  See  p.  48.  ^  See  p.  47. 

^  Mundy  says  (see  p.  60),  "From  Constantinople  unto  Adrianople  is  a 
plaine  Champion  Countrie  without  either  Tree  or  bush  excepting  att  Townes  or 
Villages." 


DES   HAYES'   VOIAGE   DE   LEVANT  213 

Selivree  autrefois  appellee  Selimbria,  est  une  petite  ville  presque 
entierement  ruinee  :  c'est  pourquoi  les  Turcs  y  ont  encore  laisse 
les  Grecs.  II  y  a  une  Eglise  fort  ancienne  qui  est  assise  en  si  beau 
lieu,  que  de-la  on  descouvre  tous  les  vaisseaux  et  toutes  les  galleres 

qui  vont  de  Constantinople  en  I'Archipelague Au  dessous  de 

Selivree  il  y  a  un  grand  bourg  habite  de  Turcs,  qui  vaut  beaucoup 
mieux  que  la  ville,  bien  qu'il  ne  s'entretienne  qu'a  cause  qu'il  est 
sur  le  grand  chemin ;  car  il  n'y  a  point  de  port  pour  les  vaisseaux, 
et  consequemment  point  de  trafic. ... 

De  Selivree  nous  costoyasmes  la  mer  de  Marmora  I'espace  de 
trois  heures,  et  arrivasmes  au  bourg  de  Bioucchekmege  qui  prend 
son  nom  du  grand  pont  de  bois\  qui  est  sur  un  destroit  par  ou  la 
mer  s'engolphe,  et  fait  un  grand  estang  sale.  Nous  trouvasmes  le 
long  de  ce  rivage  I'air  beaucoup  plus  doux,  et  le  pays  bien  plus 
fertile  et  plus  agreable  que  dans  les  plaines  de  Thrace.  Apres 
avoir  disne  en  ce  village,  nous  marchasmes  encores  le  long  de  la 
mer  I'espace  de  trois  heures,  et  arrivasmes  au  bourg  de  Couchiouc 
Chekmege^,  qui  prend  aussi  son  nom  d'un  petit  pont,  qui  est  sur 
un  destroit  moindre  que  le  premier,  ou  la  mer  fait  un  autre  estang 
sale,  lequel  s'unit  avec  le  precedent.  L'on  y  pesche  une  tres- 
grande  quantite  de  poisson,  et  les  rivages  y  sont  embellis  de 
plusieurs  maisons  de  plaisance,  a  la  mode  du  pays,  ou  les  Turcs 
vont  prendre  I'air. 

II  y  a  dans  ce  bourg  un  petit  Quiervansara,  mais  fort  beau^, 
avec  des  fontaines  pour  la  commodite  de  ceux  qui  y  logent :  ce 
qui  est  presque  ordinaire  en  tous  les  autres  ;  car  les  Turcs  croyent 
de  ne  pouvoir  faire  oraison  qui  soit  agreable  a  Dieu,  qu'auparavant 
ils  ne  se  soient  lavez,  et  particulierement  les  parties  de  leurs  corps 
avec  lesquelles  ils  ont  offense ;  c'est  pourquoy  tous  ceux  qui 
fondent  des  Quiervansaras  y  font  conduire  de  I'eau,  afin  de  donner 
moyen  aux  passants  d'y  faire  leurs  prieres,  et  d'y  louer  Dieu. 

Le  Quiervansara  du  petit  pont  est  le  plus  commode  que  nous 
ayons  rencontre,  parce  qu'il  y  a  des  chambres,  et  que  les  chevaux 
ne  sont  pas  peslemesle  avec  les  hommes  comme  aux  autres.  II 
est  un  peu  releve,  ce  qui  faict  que  la  veue  y  est  fort  agreable,  car 
l'on  descouvre  tous  les  vaisseaux  et  toutes  les  barques  qui  vont  a 

^  The  Ponto  Grande  of  Mundy.     See  p.  46. 

2  The  "Ponto  Piccolo  "  of  Mundy.     See  p.  45 f. 

-'  Mundy  calls  it  "a  good  stone  Cane."     See  p.  46. 


214  APPENDIX   F. 

Constantinople,  ou  qui  de  la  viennent  en  I'Archipelague.  Les 
Ambassadeurs  demeurent  ordinairement  en  ce  lieu,  jusques  a  ce 
que  les  Officiers  du  grand  Seigneur  soient  advertis  pour  les  rece- 
voir;  car  ce  n'est  pas  la  coustume  de  loger  chez  des  particuliers, 
mesmes  les  plus  grands  Seigneurs  du  pais  campent  avec  leurs 
tentes,  ou  bien  logent  dans  ces  Quiervansaras.... 

Le  jour  suivant,  sixiesme  de  Juillet,  apres  avoir  marche  cinq 
heures  dans  des  plaines  descouvertes,  nous  arrivasmes  a  I'une  des 
portes  de  Constantinople,  que  Ton  appelle  la  porte  d'Andrinople^ 
et  dautant  que-  pour  aller  a  Pera  oli  est  le  logis  du  Roy  et  la 
demeure  des  Ambassadeurs^,  il  faut  passer  au  milieu  de  la  ville,  et 
traverser  le  port  dans  une  barque,  ce  qui  nous  eust  este  fort  incom- 
mode, a  cause  de  nostre  esquipage,  nous  trousvasmes  plus  a  propos 
de  faire  le  tour  de  la  ville  et  celuy  du  port,  encores  que  le  chemin 
fut  un  peu  plus  long. 

Ainsi  nous  employasmes  vingt  journees  a  venir  de  Belgrade  a 
Constantinople^,  ayant  marche  en  tout,  cent  soixante  et  dix-sept 
heures :  mais  parce  que  ce  pais  est  plain  et  uny,  excepte  en  quel- 
ques  endroits  de  Bulgarie,  et  que  les  carosses  y  roulent  bien,  nous 
fismes  plus  d'une  lieue  par  heure:  de  sorte  que  j'estime  que  de 
Belgrade  a  Constantinople  il  y  ait  environ  deux  cents  lieues  de 
France,  et  de  Paris  a  Constantinople  sept  cens  que  nous  fismes  en 
deux  mois  et  vingt- trois  jours  ^,  apres  lesquels  nous  arrivasmes  a 
Pera,  qui  est  I'un  des  faux-bourgs  de  Constantinople^... 


^  See  pp.  27  and  187.  ^  ggg  pp_  ^j  ^nd  190  f. 

'^  Pindar's  party  occupied  twenty-four  days  in  the  same  journey,  viz.  from 
the  6th  to  the  30th  of  May,  1620. 

^  Pindar's  party  accomplished  the  same  distance  in  the  opposite  direction 
in  four  months  all  but  two  days.  Pindar  travelled  via  Venice  and  Northern 
Italy,  while  Des  Hayes  took  the  route  via  Strasburg  and  Vienna. 

^  See  note  on  p.  190. 


EXTRACTS  FROM  BARGRAVE'S  JOURNEYS     21 5 


2.     A  Narration  of  the  Journey  from  Constantinople  to  Dujikirke 

overland}  fuade  by  Mr.  fames  Modyford,  Mr.  Richard  Nevett 

and  mee  Robert  Bargrave'^. 

By  the  Guidance  of  Allmighty  God  we  sett  out  from  Galata  of 
Constantinople  on  the  9th  Day  of  Septr.  x\nno  1652  mounted  on 
admirable  horses... as  also  a  wagon  to  carrie  our  Luggage,  which 
we  hird  for  100  Lyon  dollers  (or  ;^2  2  sterling)  to  go  about  800 
miles  (to  Leopolis  in  Poland)... we  dind  at  Papas-cue... and  went 
thence  the  remainder  of  six  howers  Journey  to  Ponte  Piccolo^, 
where  is  only  remarkable  a  faire  Bridge  and  a  large  Lake 

Septr.  the  loth.  We  took  in  our  way  Ponte  Grande*,  a  Towne 
so  named  from  a  large  and  no  less  stately  Stone  Bridge,  about  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  in  length  over  a  Lake  as  is  the  Former ;  and 
passed  onn  to  Celebrea'^  an  auntient  City  full  of  ruinous  old 
Christian  buildings,  Pillars  and  Inscriptions;  but  such  as  I  could 
neither  gather  ought  from  my  selfe,  nor  be  enform'd  of  by  Others  : 
time  having  worne  out  all  memorable  markes  of  Antiquity  both 
here  and  throughout  the  Country  from  the  knowledge  of  the  Stupid 
Inhabitants  whose  Minds,  as  much  enslav'd  as  their  bodies  are 
otherwise  employed  then  about  such  Curiosities  :  This  days  travell 
was  about  ten  howres  over  high  Land  very  fertile,  affording  store 
of  Caccia  and  a  curious  prospect  of  Palaces,  of  Plaines  of  Foun- 
taines  and  of  the  Seae. 

Septr.  the  nth.  We  came  about  seven  howers  travell  to  a 
Towne  called  Chourlie^  over  a  Corne  Land  Plaine,  keeping  about 
two  miles  distance  from  the  Seae,  on  as  even  and  as  pleasant 
Ground  as  can  be  seen  besprinkled  with  many  pretty  villages,  faire 
country  houses,  and  numerous  Fountaines  j  whose  beauty  as  well 
pleasd  our  Eyes,  as  theyre  Liquor  our  panting  Thirsts.  Here  we 
mett  a  wonderfull  Concourse  of  Passengers  and  near  an  hundred 

1  The  extracts  here  given  are  taken  from  Razvlinson  MS.  C.  799,  fols.  49 — 
5 1 .  Only  those  passages  have  been  selected  in  which  the  route  followed  by 
Bargrave  was  identical  with  that  described  by  Mundy  in  Relation  II. 

"^  Robert  Bargrave,  who  was  a  "younger  sonn"  of  Dr  Isaac  Bargrave, 
Dean  of  Canterbury  (see  the  Diet,  of  Nat.  Biog.),  spent  the  years  1648 — 1652 
in  travelling  in  southern  and  central  Europe,  and  has  left  a  quaint  and 
interesting  MS.  chronicle  of  his  experiences. 

^  See  pp.  45  and  213.  *  See  pp.  46  and  213. 

^  See  pp.  47  and  213.  ^  See  pp.  47  and  212. 


2l6  APPENDIX   F. 

Carrs  and  waggons  drawen  by  Buffaloes,  this  Road  lying  from 
Andrinople  being  seldom  less  employd :  On  these  Plaines  an 
incredible  Quantity  of  Sheep  have  theyr  Winter  Quarters,  for  the 
Supply  of  Constantinople  but  they  are  incompatible  {for  want  of 
Shade)  of  the  Summers  heat. 

Septr.  the  12th.  We  remained  at  Chiourlee...we  went  on  the 
13th  some  eight  howres  travell  along  the  same  continued  Plaine, 
plentifully  stor'd  with  Fowles  and  hares,  of  which  our  Gunns 
furnishd  us  that  night  with  a  supper  at  a  Towne  calld  Burgoss\ 
a  small  but  very  pleasant  place  in  the  Chief  street  whereof  is  a 
faire  Mosque  (or  Church)  adornd  with  curious  Fountaines  on  the 
one  side,  and  on  the  Other  with  a  stately  Cane^  for  Travellers 
conteining  three  large  Quadrangles  cloistered  round,  having  within 
them  very  faire  Chambers  :  Both  Mosque  and  Cane  had  the  same 
Founder,  and  are  joind  with  a  faire  Cupula  cross  the  Street,  one  to 
the  other.  In  the  Cane  the  Charitable  Founder  has  bequeathed 
Provision  for  a  dayly  Supper  to  all  Travellers  Gratis'^  vizt.  for  every 
Company  where  Armes  are  hung  up  and  a  Carpet  Spread,  a 
sufficiency  of  Bread  and  admirable  Pottage  made  of  Mutton  and 
wheat  which  for  Curiosity  sake  we  tasted  of  By  the  way  I  noted 
and  was  throughly  enformd,  that  the  Turkes  Charitie  is  chiefly 
exercised  in  building  of  Canes'*  and  Fountaines  for  convenience  to 
Travellers  in  memorie  perhapps  of  theyr  own  advance  by  wandring 
motions  when  such  Helpes  as  these  were  most  gratefull — 

Bulgaria...!  could  note  litle  but  the  strange  abundance  of 
Chattering  Magpies  and  of  scolding  women  to  which  Exercise 
theyr  Language^  helps  much  and  tis  probable  those  mimick  birds 
are  decoyd  hither  by  the  Delight  they  have  in  the  Musique. ...The 
women  here  do  allmost  all  the  worke,  at  lest  theyr  shares  with  the 
Men;  having  a  masculine  proportion  apted  for  it.  Theyr  Habit 
is  a  kind  of  Gowne  without  Sleeves  wrought  round  at  the  Bottome, 
as  are  also  theyr  smocks  so  ordering  the  length  of  Either  that  the 
works  on  both  do  appeare.  They  weare  Sylver  Rings  almost 
on  every  finger  Bracelotts  of  black  and  white  Beads  or  Shells 
upon  theyr  wrists  and  great  Collars  of  sylver  Coines  about  theyr 
Necks'. 

1  See  pp.  48  and  212.  ^  See  pp.  52  and  212.  ^  See  aitte,  p.  212. 

■*  See  an(e,  p.  211.  ^  See  pp.  78  and  207.  ^  See  pp.  77  and  207. 


APPENDIX   G. 

EXTRACTS    FROM    THE    NOTE-BOOKS   OF 
RICHARD    SYMONDS. 

The  Travels  of  Richard  Symonds^  from  Dover 
TO  Turin  in  1649. 

I  St.  January,  1648^,  English  Accompt,  left  London  I  I  had  in 
money  9/.  o.  o.,   besides  old  gold  one  Elizabeth  22s.,   one  ii5". 

^  Richard  Symonds,  eldest  son  of  Edward  (or  Edmund)  Symonds,  was 
born  at  the  Plumtrees  (now  the  Buck),  Black  Notley,  Essex,  in  1617.  He 
joined  the  royalist  army,  in  1643,  '^^^  became  a  member  of  the  troop  which 
formed  the  king's  lifeguard.  In  January,  1649,  Symonds  set  out  on  his 
European  travels  and  remained  abroad  till  about  the  end  of  1652.  During 
these  years  he  set  down  his  impressions  in  various  note-books,  which  contain 
much  valuable  memoranda  relating  to  the  topography  and  genealogy  of  the 
places  he  visited,  as  well  as  many  interesting  artistic  notes. 

The  two  volumes  used  in  Appendix  G  are  entered  in  the  British  Museum 
catalogue  of  MSS.  as  follows  : — [a)  Harl.  MS.  943.  Another  of  Mr.  Symonds' 
Manuscripts;  wherein  he  has  inserted,  (1)  Several  notes  relating  to  his  own 
private  Affairs,  and  the  disposition  of  them.  (2)  Notes  relating  to  his  Charges 
in  travailing  into  France,  A.  D.  1648 — 9.  (3)  Observations  made  by  him  in 
France,  touching  the  Countrey,  the  People,  their  Fashions,  Manners,  and 
Customs,  with  Heraldical  Matters,  Church-Notes,  &c.  (4)  Like  Observations 
on  his  Journey  from  Paris  to  Italy,  by  the  way  of  Savoy.  (5)  Discourses  and 
Observations,  touching  various  matters,  thought  worthy  of  remembrance  by 
Mr.  Symonds.  (6)  Notes  concerning  Mr.  Symonds  his  Journey  from  Alexandria 
to  Genoa  and  so  to  Rome ;  with  Lists  of  Books  and  Pictures,  (b)  Harl.  MS. 
1278.  A  Modern  MS.  in  8vo.  bought  of  Mr.  Peter  le  Neve  and  written  by  the 
hand  of  Mr.  Richard  Symonds.  It  containeth — (i)  His  observations  made 
upon  his  View  of  all  the  Public  Buildings  in  Paris  ;  with  Copies  and  Draughts 
of  Arms,  Inscriptions,  Epitaphs,  Habits,  Dials,  &c.  (2)  At  the  beginning, 
is  a  Table  of  the  said  Buildings,  as  Churches,  Monasteries,  Colleges,  &c. 

The  passages  extracted  from  these  two  MSS.  are  those  relating  in  any  way 
to  Mundy's  journey  from  Turin  to  Dover  and  to  the  buildings  in  Paris  of 
which  he  has  an  account  in  Relation  II.  A  few  of  Symonds'  entries  of 
expenses  are  given,  but  many  curious  and  interesting  observations  have, 
perforce,  been  omitted,  since  they  have  no  direct  bearing  on  Mundy's 
Travels. 

Of  the  seventeen  note-books  left  by  Symonds,  four  only  have  been  printed 
in  extenso.  These  contain  his  Diary  of  the  Marches  of  the  Royal  Army  during 
the  great  Civil  War.  They  were  edited  for  the  Camden  Society  in  1859  by 
Charles  Edward  Long.  Other  note-books  of  Richard  Symonds  have  been 
largely  used  by  Morant  in  his  History  of  Essex  and  by  Walpole  in  Anecdotes  of 
Painting. 

For  a  detailed  account  of  the  life  and  works  of  Richard  Symonds  (who 
died  cii-c.  1692)  see  the  account  in  the  Diet,  of  Nat.  Biog. 

^  i.e.  1648/9. 

^  The  notes  at  the  beginning  of  Harl.  MS.  943  (from  which  the  above 
extracts  are  taken),  are  very  disconnected  and  are  interspersed  with  numerous 
entries  of  items  of  expenditure. 


2l8  APPENDIX   G.      EXTRACTS    FROM 

Elizabeth,  i  thick  peice,  i  thin  peice.  Exchang'd  to  Paris 
5 5 /....For  which  I  received  there  but  50/.,  and  abated  5  livres 
for  provisions  besides. 

Porters,  carrying  portmantu,  is. ;  passage  in  the  Gravesend 
barge,  6d. ;  portage  at  Gravesend,  6d. ;  breakfast  there,  2s. ;  Horse 
hyre  for  my  selfe  and  a  guide  to  Sittingburne,  18  myle,  lox. ; 
thence  to  Canterbury,  15  myles\  ^s.  ;  Servant,  2d. ;  bayte  there, 
IS.  6d. ;  Post  and  guide  from  Canterbury  to  Dover,  8i-. ;  Hostler, 
6d. ;  bayt  at  Canterbury,  d>d. ;  gave  the  boy  that  rode  with  me  all 
the  way  to  Dover,  is.  ;  my  post  boy,  is. 

At  Dover  at  the  Greyhound ^  but  if  ever  I  passe  agen,  to  ride 
to  the  Queens  Armes  at  the  peere,  for  many  reasons,  especially 
for  the  convenience  of  being  neere  the  botes  and  sparing  expences  : 
Supper,  fire,  lodging,  etc.,  i2.f. ...All  that  part  of  Dover  which  is 
calld  the  peere ^  was  gaind  out  of  the  sea  since  the  memory  of 
man,  for  a  fore  the  waves  washt  the  rocky  shore  as  under  the 
castle  now. 

Wednesday,  fowle  weather,  and  the  paquet  bote  was  at  Callis. 

Thursday,  about  nine  in  the  forenoone,  I  enterd  a  shallop, 
and  at  two  afternoone,  was  at  Cains'*.  Passage,  5i'. ;  porter,  7^. ; 
boy,  2d. ;  porter  at  Callis,  'jd. ;  lodging  at  Dover,  Wednesday 
night,  2  j-. ...  Market  bote  goes  from  Dover  to  Callis,  Tuesdays  and 
Fridayes.  The  coaches  of  passage  goe  from  Gravesend  to  Can- 
terbury on  Tuesdays  and  Fridays  of  corse My  lodging  at  Callis, 

supper,  lodginge  and  dinner  4  and  5  January,  6s.  6d. ;  Charitie, 
2d. ;  wine,  i  pint  and  mad:  Flomrey,  ^d. 

Jantiary  5,    1648,   Friday^.      I   set  out  with  the   Messenger 


^  Mundy  gives  the  distance  between  Canterbury  and  Sittingbourne  as 
II  miles.     See  p.   135. 

2  Mundy  also  lodged  at  this  inn  in  1620.     See  p.  134. 

^  See  p.  134  for  Mundy's  remarks  on  the  "  peere  "  and  harbour  at  Dover. 
'*  Mundy  made  the  passage  from  Calais  to  Dover  in  three  and  a  half  hours. 
See  p.  134. 

^  This  portion  of  Harl.  MS.  943,  relating  to  Symonds'  journey  from  Calais 
to  Paris,  exists  in  duplicate.  The  second  copy  is  about  a  century  later  than 
the  original.  It  consists  of  ten  quarto  pages,  bound  up  with  Sloane  MS.  ^11^ 
(Biographical  Anecdotes,  Bibliotheca  Birchiana)  and  is  en\.\t\edi,Jotn-nal  0/  the 
Travels  of  Richard  Symonds,  1648 jg.  The  copyist  prefixes  the  following 
biographical  notes  to  his  extract  from  Symonds'  account  of  his  travels  : — "  He 
was  the  son  of  Edward  Symonds  of  Black  Notley  in  the  Kounty  of  Essex 
by  his  Wife  Anna  — ;  which  Edward  by  his  last  Will  dated  October  12,  1636, 
appoints  his  Son  Richard  his  sole  Executor.  He  leave  to  his  two  sons  Edward 
and  John  six  hundred  pounds  each  to  be  paid  them  at  their  several  ages  of 


THE    NOTE-BOOKS    OF    RICHARD    SYMONDS  219 

from  Callais  towards  Paris,  12  o'  the  Clock,  having  left  London 
I  January,  English  accompt.  We  left  Callis  about  one  o'clock, 
and  about  seven  that  night,  we  Came  to  Bollon  thorough  a  hilly 
Country,  and  by  reason  the  Water  has  made  deep  gulls  every 
where,  tis  a  very  scurvy  passage,  worse  than  ever  I  rode  in 
England,  now  and  then  a  fair  Sandy  Way.  Near  Callis  some 
Villages  stands  thick,  but  very  small,  where  a  few  Cottages  built  of 
stone  and  thatcht  are  neare  the  Church,  which  also  is  poore. 
Here  the  Country  people  plough  with  three  small  horses,  that  go 
all  a  breast,  and  wheel  ploughs  as  in  Kent,  and  lay  their  Land  as 
in  Kent,  but  with  this  difference,  they  lay  all  one  way  alike,  but 
these  in  France  remove  furrowes.  Only  one  small  thatcht  Abby 
on  our  right  hand,  five  or  six  miles  from  Callis  I  saw  in  this 
Journey.  A  very  playne  hilly  Country,  no  Wood  but  what  is 
about  some  houses.  Their  Cottages  stink  as  bad  as  the  in- 
habitants. 

From  Bullen  wee  marcht  along  the  shore.  BuUen  is  no 
garrison.  The  Town  stands  upon  a  high  HilP,  and  in  the  middle 
the  Church,  which  is  large.  Wee  lay  at  the  golden  Horn  in  the 
lowTowne^.  Here  is  a  monastery  of  Capuchines.  This  Country, 
both  in  ground,  but  especially  the  Houses,  is  like  Cornwall.  This 
soil  is  better,  and  more  fruitfull,  not  so  rockie. 

About  one  of  the  Clock  we  got  to  Montrill,  a  strong  Garrison 
upon  the  summitye  of  a  Hill^  and  four  or  five  Churches  in  it.  In 
one  of  them  on  the  left  hand,  as  you  enter  into  the  west  end,  lies 
an  old  Monument  of  a  Knight  in  old  Armour  like  our  Templars'*. 
It  is  a  faire  town  and  many  hansome  howses  and  good  shops.  I 
saw  many  hares  in  the  Cokes  shops.  Here  the  country  people 
pull  off  their  hatts  and  goe  out  of  the  way  with  their  Waynes, 
which  Waynes  are  drawne  with  three  horses,  and  the  Waggoner 


three  and  twenty  Years.  To  his  Daughter  Anne  ^500  to  be  paid  at  the  age  of 
twenty  years,  or  at  the  day  of  her  marriage,  which  shall  first  happen.  Edward 
Symonds  was  baptis'd  at  Black  Notley  20  December  1621,  John  10  April  1627, 
Anne  31  March  1631." 

'  See  p.  132. 

^  Mundy  lodged  at  "The  Grayhound,"  which  was  also  in  the  "lower 
Towne."     See  p.    132. 

*  Mundy  describes  Montreuil  as  "a  small  Cittie  with  three  walls."  See 
p.  132. 

^  There  is  a  sketch  by  Symonds,  in  the  MS.,  of  the  "Arms  embossed  over 
the  figure." 


220  APPENDIX   G.      EXTRACTS    FROM 

sitts  on  the  neare  horse  behind.     Browne  horses  are  all  as  I  have 
yet  seen. 

That  night  went  to  a  Village  called  Berney',  four  or  five 
howses,  as  most  of  the  rest  of  all  Villages  in  this  Country  have. 
This  passage  was  good,  an  open  Country,  and  some  hills  adorned 
with  Woods  such  like  some  parts  of  Northamptonshire. 

Sunday  early  we  left  that  hostelrie  and  early  at  Masse  time  we 
entered  Abbeville "^  so  called,  as  I  suppose,  from  some  famous 
Abbey.  There,  indeed,  part  of  a  great  church  and  lofty  and  other 
buildings  remain,  which  shew  a  great  fabrique.  There  is  five  or 
six  more  Churches,  besides  Religious  houses.  This  is  the  best 
buildings  I  have  yet  seen  in  France.  Riding,  Shoeing,  Waggoning, 
&c.  are  no  Novelties  on  a  Sunday.  In  this  passage  we  came  by 
many  Churches,  which  stood  not  above  half  a  myle  from  each 
other.  We  came  near  an  Abbey,  where,  in  the  woods,  are  snares 
of  Ropes  and  pullyes  sett  upon  the  Trees  to  catch  birds.  About 
Callis  and  this  part  of  Picardy  are  many  such  crows,  which  are 
about  Cambridge,  and  calld  Royston  Crows.  The  Chancels  of  the 
Countrey  Churches  are  for  the  most  part  higher  then  the  church. 
The  steeple  a  Wall,  wherein  two  holes  are  cutt  for  two  small 
ting  tang  bells.  The  A^illages  have  not  above  five  or  six  poor 
Cottages  of  stone,  thatcht ;  a  few  trees;  the  Country  playne. 
The  houses  have  an  outward  Doore  besides  the  inward  of  thick 
spHnts,  not  much  different  from  our  Essex  Gates  to  preserve 
braking  open. 

Abbeville  is  fortified  strong,  and  many  Trees  in  rows  within 
the  Works  I  Fair  Churches  here,  and  a  good  towne,  but  dirty, 
especially  in  the  market-place,  which  is  large.  Many  Crosses  in 
this  town,  wherein  the  Crucifix  is  as  big  as  the  Life.  Two  or  three 
small  Chapels  in  the  high  way  with  an  Altar  of  stone  and  a  statue. 

After  dinner  we  went  to  Poix;  they  call  it  nyne  miles'*.  This 
passage  and  Country  is  likest  to  Cambridgshire,  chalky,  playne, 
champagne  and  hilly.  Thin  of  parishes.  The  woods  are  not 
fenct  in,  but  open  to  the  Champagne. 


1  The  Bearne  of  Mundy,  who  calls  it  "a  poore  Towne."     See  p.  132. 

^  See  p.  1 3 1  f. 

=•  Mundy  had  no  time  to  make  observations  at  Abbeville,  as  he  stayed  there 
"only  to  breake  fast." 

■^  Symonds,  no  doubt,  had  reason  to  distrust  the  native  estimate  of  the 
distance  between  Abbeville  and  Poix.  Mundy  gives  18  miles  between  the  two 
places.     See  p.  131  f. 


THE    NOTE-BOOKS    OF    RICHARD    SYMONDS  221 

In  Abbeville,  I  saw  two  wild  bores  heads  and  pawes  nayled  at 
the  Gate  of  a  gentlemans  Howse  in  the  town.  In  the  valley,  as 
we  past,  four  miles,  as  I  take  it,  from  Abbeville,  we  came  by  a 
small  Garrison.  They  call  it  Pont  d'armee\  Upon  the  draw- 
bridge is  a  Wolfes  head  and  clawes  nayled.... 

Poix  is  a  small  village ^  Here,  as  elsewhere,  the  lower  parts. 
of  the  windowes  are  latticed  and  glazed  above.  Here,  in  this  inn,, 
the  Woman  servants,  or  Maid  servants  that  wayted  on  us,  helped 
the  fellows  to  fill  the  tumbriel  with  dung.  On  the  top  of  the  hill 
stands  a  Castle  of  chalky  stone,  a  grove  neare  it ;  also  the  Church,, 
which  is  faire,  not  like  our  Churches.  Tis  covered  with  blew 
shingles,  which  lookes  afar  off  like  lead. 

9  January,  Julia7i  accornpt.  Munday  morning  wee  marcht 
from  thence  through  a  fair  hilly  Country,  where  the  Villages 
stand  in  the  Vallyes  for  the  most  part.  The  hills  are  plowed, 
being  a  sandy  and  Chalky  soil.  But  this  journey  was  far  better 
then  any  of  the  former.  About  the  middle  of  the  way,  on  the 
left  hand,  wee  left  a  lofty,  large  and  fair  Castle.  No  Gentlemans. 
bowses  all  this  way,  but  one,  and  that  was  in  our  way  near  that. 
Castle.     Many  Dovehouses  and  great  flocks  of  pidgeons. 

In  the  beginning  of  the  Evening  we  entered  the  faire,  and  the: 
best  towne  I  have  yet  scene  in  France,  of  Beauvois^.  Six  or 
seven  Churches,  one  of  them  very  high,  of  the  fashion  of  the 
Abbey  of  Westminster.  The  houses  in  this  town  are  very  high, 
the  streets  well  paved,  but  Dung-hills  all  the  way  in  the  middle  of 
them.  The  Churches  are  lofty,  and  much  adorned  with  statues, 
outside ;  Many  of  the  Virgin  Mary  sitting  and  holding  the  dead 
body  of  our  Saviour  in  her  Lap.  This  town  is  seated  in  a  Valley  : 
the  rivers  run  through  it,  and  the  lofty  hills,  which  inviron  it,  are 
adorned  with  a  multitude  of  Vineyards.  The  situation  not  unlike 
to  Salisbury,  and  the  prospect  also,  though  the  river  divides  itself 
nothing  so  often.  The  great  Church  in  this  town  is  extreme  lofty. 
In  the  quire,  near  the  Alter,  are  many  large,  flat  stones,  inlayd 
with  brass,  for  Bishops  and  churchmen,  their  inscriptions  circum- 
scribd  in  old  French  Characters,  as  our  old  ones  are  also  in 
England.  I  saw  no  arms  in  the  Windowes,  but  faire  old  Glasse, 
nor  noe  old  monuments  of  any  notice.     Tis  called  I'Eglise  de 

^  See   p.    131.     Mundy   agrees  with    Symonds   in   the   distance   betweea. 
Abbeville  and  "Pondormy." 
^  See  p.  131. 


222  APPENDIX   G.      EXTRACTS   FROM 

■S.  Pierre.  The  south  ile  is  the  faire  Entrance,  whereto  you 
ascend  upon  many  fair  stone  steps.  The  two  doores  are  large, 
and  very  fairely  carved  in  Wood  of  stories  of  our  Saviour.  The 
Font  is  adorned  with  the  Statues  of  our  Savior  in  the  middle  and 
his  six  Disciples  on  each  side  of  him.  The  habitt  of  the  Church- 
men, whereof  I  saw  many,  is  black  gowne  and  whood  hanging 
■with  a  long  poke  behind ;  under  it  a  demy  surplice  laced  at 
bottom.  The  marketplace  is  so  large,  that  a  regiment  of  foot 
■of  looo  men  may  march  in  Battalia.  The  Windowes  are  of 
squared  pillars  of  Wood,  and  the  Glass  is  square  also,  and  lett 
into  them.  Some  of  them,  the  pillars,  are  in  the  fashion  of 
flowers  De  Lis,  &c. 

About  ten  of  the  Clock,  wee  left  this  town,  and  marcht  over 
a  champagne,  hilly,  chalky  and  not  very  plentifull  Country.  Yet 
many  of  the  hills  are  tilld,  and  yield  hopes  of  an  ensuing 
plentifull  harvest.  And  when  we  had  past  a  long  Cawsey  and 
bridge,  wee  entered  Beaumond',  which  has  two  or  three  Churches 
and  a  very  old,  ruind,  yet  fortified  Castle.  This  Towne  is  built 
of  stone  and  of  no  great  note.  This  is  i6  Myles  from  Paris  ^, 
and  stands  in  the  Confines  of  the  Country  or  Province  of  France. 

Next  morning  wee  passed  through  a  Country  which  is  as  far 
beyond  Picardy  as  England  beyond  Wales,  both  for  Gentlemans 
howses,  neat  Villages,  a  fair  Cawsey  of  stone  almost  all  the  way 
to  Paris  ;  Vineyards  and  Orchards  of  Cherryes,  apples  and  peares 
most  part  of  the  way,  on  either  hand. ...The  villages  are  for  the 
most  part  consisting  of  a  Gentlemans  howse,  a  pretty  Church, 
and  in  many  not  above  six,  seven  or  eight  howses  with  Orchards 
and  a  Grove  for  the  most  part  within  a  Wall. 

We  entered  St.  Dennis*,  where  the  faire  Abbey  is  much 
beautified  with  a  stately  Church,  where  the  Kings  of  France  are 
buried.... 

To  the  Messenger^  for  my  passage  from  Callis  to  Paris,  he 
bearing  all  my  charges  and  finding  horse,  ii  Crownes,  2.  15.  o. ; 
to  the  boy,  ^d. ;    Gave  to  servants  in  my  passage^  is.  6d.     The 

^  See  p.  131. 

^  Mundy  also  gives  the  distance  between  Beaumont  and  Paris  as  16  miles. 
See  p.  131  f. 
^  See  p.  130. 

*  Symonds'  notes  of  his  daily  expenditure  are  scattered  over  his  MS.  and 
interspersed  with  his  account  of  scenery  or  buildings. 


THE   NOTE-BOOKS   OF   RICHARD   SYMONDS  223 

two  French  men  that  went  with  me  paid  but  three  pistols^  a  man 
for  this  Journey.  Expended  by  the  way  10^/. ;  and  in  enter- 
teyning  three  Captains  of  Colonel  Rookebeyes  Regiment  at 
Beaumond,  2s.  To  the  messengers  master  at  Paris  for  my 
Portmantue,  which  did  weigh  36  Pound  (I  was  allowed  5/.),  at 
4d.  the  /.,  los.  The  messenger  La  liberie  had  of  me  at  St. 
Dennis,  partly  for  wine,  partly  for  passage,  etc.,   is.  3^. 

1 1  January.  My  lodging  at  St.  Cristofers  in  La  Rue  de  Roy, 
from  Thursday  night  to  Satterday  afternoone  and  dyett,  los.-... 
Enterd  into  Pension  at  the  three  Mores  heads  in  La  Rue  St. 
Jaque,  Tuesday,  15  January ^... My  being  in  pension  at  the  Three 
Mores,  in  Rue  St.  Jaque,  three  weekes,  to  the  15  of  February, 
3/.;  Porter,  lod.;  going  up  Nostre  Dame  steeple,  3^.*  and  St. 
Etienne,  2d. ;  Gave  my  landladyes  servant,  ^d. ;  the  maid,  S^-^--- 
Bootes  mending,  ^d. ;  Paid  my  landlady  at  the  Three  Mores  to 
the  2nd.  of  March,  two  weekes  at  a  pistol  the  weeke  i/.  13^'.  4d.^ ; 
The  Ceremonies  of  the  Church,  i^.  3^. ;  Paid  my  landlady  at 
Three  Mores  to  the  9th  March,  15^.  10^.. ..wood  lod. ;  Barbier, 
-8th  March,  cutting  my  hair,  2od.  and  cleansing  my  teeth,  40^.  he 
"was  not  pleased.... Paid  my  pension  to  the  i6th  March,  one 
Weeke,  i6s.  8d. ;  razor,  yd.  Making  cleane  my  watch,  2id. ; 
cristall  for  it,  21^. ...Paid  my  landlady  one  weeks  money  aforehand 
to  the  24th  March,  16s.  10^. ...Virgils  six  books  of  Aeneads  in 
latine  and  French,  55-. ;  paid  one  moneth  hyring  my  lute  to 
29th  March,  30^. ...Paid  my  Landlady  at  Three  Mores,  ist  April 
to  the  6th  April,  i /.  i  t,s.  ^d.... Bootes,  setting  up,  etc.,  5X. . . . inkhorne, 
4^.;  gloves  mending  and  washing,  20^.... Bleeding,  19th  May, 
.20^.... at  my  lodging  in  Rue  Sept  Voyes,  five  dayes  chamber  rent, 
2 5^.... Sword,  blackinge  scabbarde,  3^-.  3^.;  Prayer  booke,  6d. ; 
gloves,  mending  and  washing,  2od. ;  Looking  glasse,  i^d.;  Paid 
my  pension  to  the  19th  April,  16s.  3^. ;  Mending  my  cloth  suite, 
etc.,  40^. ...bleeding,  19th  May,  2od. ;  big  leeches,  20th  May,  54^. 

1  i.e.  about  £2.  \is.  od.  The  pistole,  a  Spanish  gold  coin,  was  worth,  in 
the  17th  century,  from  i6j.  dd.  to  \%s. 

^  Here  follow  numerous  items  of  expenditure  for  food,  wine,  books, 
■  clothing,  etc. 

^  Symonds  stayed  in  Paris  for  nearly  seven  months,  while  Mundy  only 
remained  in  the  city  for  one  clear  day.     See  pp.  124 — 130. 

•*  Mundy  also  "ascended"  one  of  the  "two  great  steeples"  of  the  "great 
•Church  of  our  Lady."     See  p.  130. 

^  Here  follow  numerous  trivial  items  of  expenditure. 

^  Syinonds  values  a  pistole  at  ids.  8d.     See  above,  note  i. 


224  APPENDIX   G.      EXTRACTS   FROM 

Friday  night,  May  28//?,  I  removed  to  the  Quatre  Vents,  Rue 

[?]  Priedue,  neere  Place  Maubert Hat,  8  francs;  journey  to  St. 

Clou,  Ruel  and  St.  Jermains,  horse,  35^.;  Dinner,  i5(/. ;  Paid 
Madame  Martyn  for  a  moneth  from  the  26th  May,  45  livres, 
?)£•  ^S^-i  ^^^  4°^-  f<^^  washing.  To  St.  Denys,  ist  July,  dinner, 
4o^....Seing  Cardinal  Richlieu's  Palais,  20^.... Paid  for  letters 
from  the  first  till  July,  6s.  Sd....i  pr.  linnen  stockings,  2od. ;  To 
my  master  of  French,  5^-.  and  "js.  6d.  for  a  fortnight  twice  a  day 

Parish  The  method  of  discovering  or  describing  this  faire 
and  large  Citty,  divide  into  four  Quarters.  First  that  Quarter 
wherein  is  the  kings  howse  called  the  Louvre.  Secondly, '  that 
quarter  wherein  is  the  Bastyle.  srdly,  the  quarter  wherein  is 
the  Colledg  of  Sorbonne  and  the  fauxbourg  of  St.  Germans. 
4thly^ 

The  kings  howse  calld  the  Louvre  at  Paris ^.  Next  the 
River  is  a  long  building  of  stone  which  is  the  gallery,  coverd 
with  blew  Slate'*.  The  fore  gate  stands  westward,  where  as  soone 
as  you  enter  you  ascend  some  stepps  of  stone  which  looke  into  a 
large  garden'^,  which  ascent  is  a  stayrecase  all  of  stone  of  Ovall 
forme,  the  Pillars  of  Black  Marble.  The  Garden  is  of  many 
walkes  and  knotts  of  box  as  the  garden  at  White  hall  in  Essex. 
About  the  sides  are  Cipresse  trees  about  twelve  in  all,  which  grow 
high  and  the  body  is  prund  up  about  a  mans  height  from  ground, 
the  boughes  not  tyed  as  ours  in  England.  Right  over  against  the 
entrance  into  this  Royall  Palace,  which  is  but  begun  and  not  halfe 
perfected,  I  suppose  (as  not  intended),  within  a  stone  wall,  is 
a  larg  garden  almost  halfe  a  myle  square,  in  plans  upon  a  flat, 
where,  at  the  entrance,  you  looke  thorough  a  walke  on  each  side 
planted  with  shee  Elmes,  but  the  Cawsey,  as  all  other  the  walkes 
in  that  garden,  is  so  troublesomely  dirty  tis  a  labor  to  walke  in  it. 
In  the  middle  is  a  grove  of  Cipresse  tall  and  Box  make  the  hedges 
pretty  close,  So  that  Box  is  below  and  Cipresse  above  in  the  same 
hedge.     There  is  a  faire  pond  also  in  that  garden  and  three 


1  The  following  descriptions  of  the  Louvre,  St  Innocents,  etc.  are  taken 
from  Harl.  MS.  i-zjS,  which  contains  Symonds'  Notes  on  Churches  and  Public 
Buildings  in  Paris. 

2  There  is  a  gap  in  the  MS.  here. 

^  See  pp.  126 — 128  for  Mundy's  description  of  "The  Loure." 
■*  Here  Symonds  has  a  rough  sketch  of  the  building. 
''  See  p.  127. 


THE   NOTE-BOOKS   OF   RICHARD   SYMONDS  225 

Crosse  walks  of  thick  and  tall  box,  some  groves  of  Elmes,  some 
squares  of  box  knotts.  One  side  on  the  right  hand  as  you  come 
in  is  althorough  out  of  box  knotts,  where  the  hedges  are  neately 
kept  as  thus '.  Next  some  of  the  walls,  as  in  many  other  places 
of  France  is  planted  of  beech  wood,  which  grows  like  a  hedge  to 
defend  you  from  the  hot  reflection  of  the  Sun  upon  those  walls. 

Chasteau  Royal  de  Louvre.  The  first  Court  is  begun  to  be 
built  very  lofty  and  large,  the  front  with  statues  over  the  port. 
The  Gallery  next  the  Water  is  not  halfe-way  rooft,  paved  with 
brick  and  two  Row  of  square  stones  in  the  middle  of  black  and 
white  marble.  The  spaces  betweene  the  Windowes  was  designed 
to  have  the  prospects  of  all  the  famousest  Citties  of  the  World  in 
painting,  not  one  perfected  nor  begun.  The  Roofe  has  halfe 
statues  and  antique  worke  upon  painting  of  Mosaique^.  In  a 
little  Gallery  going  into  the  great  one^  are  the  pictures  of  all  the 
Kings  of  France  from  St.  Fouys  at  length  and  the  heads  of  all 
their  severall  great  officers  about  them ;  their  Queenes  the  other 
side  and  their  Ladyes'*.  Monsr.  Bunel  was  a  painter  in  this 
Gallery. 

Under  the  long  gallery  is  a  place  is  called  the  Bureau  d'Adresse. 
Here  a  man  has  bookes  of  Servants  and  Lacquies  names.  Every 
lacquey  that  wants  a  master,  for  5^.  has  his  name  entred  and 
condition,  and  those  that  want  servants  come  to  him  and  give 
him  ^d.  also  for  his  payment  of  helping  him  to  him. 

The  Roofe  has  many  storyes  of  men  and  women.  At  the 
farther  End  aloft  sitts  Henry  IV.  in  a  throne  and  his  Court  about 
him.  In  the  middle  is  a  square  place  rayld  in  and  a  step  higher 
then  the  other  for  the  King  and  Queene  to  be  in  when  there  are 
bien  du  monde.  No  other  paintings  of  note  in  this  large  Howse 
except  four  seasons  done  by  Bassano  small,  the  things  lesse  then 
the  life.... 

Des  Hostels  plus  Remarquables  en  Fauxbourg  S.  Germain. 
In  the  large  Street  at  the  foregate  of  Louxemberg  in  the  middle 
of  the  street  that  which  was  the  house  of  the  Marquis  d'Ancre*  is 

^  Here  is  a  rough  sketch  of  box  trees  cut  into  two  different  shapes. 

2  In  Uarl.  MS.  943,  Symonds  says,  "  Much  of  the  Roofe  [of  the  Louvre] 
is  guilt  but  not  a  quarter  of  it." 

^  In  Harl.  MS.  943,  Symonds  says  that  the  "little  gallery  is  as  you  goe 
from  the  Queen  of  Englands  Cot  into  the  long  gallery."     See  p.  128. 

''  Seep.  127.  ^  Seep.  129. 

M.  15 


226  APPENDIX   G.      EXTRACTS   FROM 

now  written  over  the  Gate,  Hostel  pour  Les  Embassadeurs  Extra- 
ordinaires^.. Hostel  de  Luxembourg.  The  one  side  next  the 
Nunnery  of  Mount  Calvaire  is  finisht  and  fairely  guilded  within. 
The  One  side  is  a  gallery  flat  Roofe  but  fairly  guilded,  and  on  the 
sides  the  story  of  the  life  of  Marie  de  Medicis^.... 

Eglise  Sto.  Innocents.  There  is  in  Rue  St  Denys,  a  small 
church  and  low,  No  handsome  Church  within,  a  faire  Monument 
of  a  brasse  in  the  east  end  of  the  South  yle  of  a  Woman  a  foot 
from  ground,  Tis  of  a  Nun  1400  and  od^,  her  portrait  in  solid 
brasse.  TheHangins  of  the  body  of  the  church  were  the  biggest 
paintings  I  ever  saw  and  rarely  done,  much  spoyled  and  raffled,  story 
of  our  Saviour,  Many  persons  in  a  peice,  much  plate,  very  large, 
Pilate  examining  Our  Saviour  rarely  done.  The  Church  yard  is 
large  &  a  Cloister  Round  it  whose  roofe  is  all  full  of  sculls  and 
bones*.  This  is  the  burying  place  of  all  strangers,  Many  crosses 
that  have  Inscriptions  at  the  head  of  the  graves.... 

Eglise  de  Nostre  Dame.  Tis  seated  in  a  hole  very  low,  from 
Pont  Nostre  Dame  tis  downe  hill  to  it.  Two  lofty  great  Towers 
at  the  west  end  which  have  vast  Bells  in  them^.  Many  old  statues 
are  at  this  w^est  end,  our  Saviour  in  the  middle  and  six  of  his 
disciples  on  either  hand,  all  flattish  and  very  long.  Above  is  the 
last  judgment  with  a  world  of  bodyes  and  people.... This  Church 
is  very  broad  considering  the  height,  which  is  very  low  in  the 
yles,  and  has  four  Rowes  of  Pillars  in  the  body  and  Quire.... 
Some  old  Glasse  remaining  in  the  North  side  of  the  Quire  and 
much  in  the  Crosse  Windowes ;  the  Statues  of  Saints  on  the 
South  part  of  the  Crosse  are  far  bigger  then  the  life,  for  men 
passing  under  them  lookt  like  pigmies  at  the  distance.... The 
Roofe  of  this  Church  and  Chancel  is  coverd  with  Lead,  which 
is  rarely  scene  here 

Their  Dyett*^.  In  our  Pension  and  in  my  Inn  also  it  was 
ordinary  to  [have]  rost  beife  at  night,  burne  the  out  side  and  the 
blood  within  when  you  cutt  it.     They  have  sallads  all  the  winter 

*  See  p.  126. 

2  This  palace  was  unfinished  when  Mundy  visited  Paris  in  1620.  See 
p.   126. 

'■^  The  figures  evidently  refer  to  the  century  in  which  the  lady  lived  and  not 
to  her  age. 

*  See  p.  129.  ^  See  p.  130. 

®  From  this  point  the  extracts  are  taken  from  Harl.  MS.  943,  Symonds' 
Notes  of  Travels  m  France  and  Italy. 


THE   NOTE-BOOKS   OF   RICHARD   SYMONDS  22/ 

of  CoUyflower  stalks.  In  their  pottage  they  putt  long  herbes  and 
often  gobbets  of  Turnips  and  sops  of  bread,  without  thicking  of 
oat  meal.... 

A  Mountebank  and  his  boy  on  Sunday  hanging  his  Crocodyle 
Skins  and  selling  his  medicaments  with  his  quack  confidence  to  the 
people  under  the  brasen  Horse  of  Henry  IV.  upon  Pont  Neuf'.... 

3  August.  Left  Paris  and,  with  the  messager  of  Nevers^ 
Went  first  night,   being  Tuesday,  twelve  leagues;  this  Journey 

many  pretty  howses  in  the  Villages,  as  the  Seigneur  de  la  village 

Wee  lay  in  a  walld  bourg. ...This  was  no  rich  Country. 

Wednesday,  five  in  the  morning,  wee  rode  through  a  Rocky 
Country... the  little  Valleyes  not  fruitfull...few  Churches  and 
poore  ones,  playne  Country — 

This  day  we  passd  through  Montargig^,  where  stands  an  old 

Chasteau    belonging   to   the    Duke   of   Orleans The    River   is 

small  and  pretty  meadowes ;  boats  made  here.... 

La  Buciere...a  pleasant  place,  but  barren... a  little  afore  wee 
came  to  the  next  Ville  or  Bourge,  which  is  small  and  Joyned  to 
the  Loyre^.  Here  is  a  Canall  that  was  made  about  twenty  yeares 
since,  which  Joynes  the  Loyre  which  is  at  Montargis.  At  the 
Mills  are  sluces  to  lett  in  the  botes  so  they  mount  up  hills. 
Les  Escluses — sluices  rose,  they  are  filled,  the  botes  passes. 

Briare*.  Without  the  towne  is  the  Cemitere...many  Barren 
hills  and  dales  in  this  fore  noone  passage  to  Bony^,  a  walld  towne 
upon  Loyre.... The  Loyre  is  broad  having  much  sands  and  wast 
ground,  of  every  side  unfruitfuU.  Tis  a  rude  Valley  from  Briare, 
and  high  hills  every  side  the  Loire,  woodye,  and  the  Country 
neither  very  pleasant  nor  fruitful^,  abundance  of  Noyers,  Walnut 
Trees,  in  this  place  neare  Bony. ...Right  against  Bone,  on  the 
other  side  the  Loyre,  top  of  the  hill  in  the  province  of  Berry,  is 
a  pretty  little  bourg  walld  they  call  Beau  Lieu,  one  Church — 
This  night  wee  lay  at  a  walld  Ville  they  call  Coane  upon  the 
river.  Cone  sur  Loyre ^... The  Ville  is  walld  and  draw  bridged; 

1  See  p.  125.  Here  follows  a  list  of  the  books  which  Symonds  left  in  Paris 
and  of  those  which  he  took  with  him  on  his  journey  to  Turin. 

^  Symonds'  route  from  Paris  to  Briare  was  via  Montargis  and  La  Bussiere. 
Mundy  and  his  party,  travelling  in  the  opposite  direction,  followed  the  Loire 
from  Briare  to  Orleans  and  thence  to  Paris.     See  jjp.  121 — 124. 

^  Probably  Gien  is  meant.     See  p.  122.  *  See  p.  121. 

5  Mundy,  however  (see  p.  123),  found  "  the  Countrey  downe  the  River  very 
pleasant." 

15—2 


228  APPENDIX   G.      EXTRACTS   FROM 

a  pritty  River  runs  in  divers  places.  Over  against  this  on  the  side 
of  Berry,  on  the  sumity  of  a  Mounteyne,  is  the  httle  Ville  de 
Sainct  Loire S  which  they  call  Papaute  des  Huguenots.... 

This  morning,  Friday,  easily  to  dinner  (by  the  Loyre  side) 
at  the  Charite'.  This  passage  was  yet  the  most  pleasant  I  have 
seene  in  France,  for  many  meadowses  and  good  Corne  was  in  the 
level.  The  Loyre  broad  and  full  of  shelves  of  sand.  La  Charite 
is  walld,  has  three  parish  Churches,  three  howses  of  Religion,  a 
Grenier  du  Sel  and  a  President  etc.,  is  on  the  side  of  the  hill, 
very  well  paved  and  cleane,  none  like  it  in  all  our  passage.  In 
the  mountaynous  hills  round  it  are  many  vineyards,  and  below, 
walnut  Trees  and  Corne.  Here  is  a  stone  bridge^  goes  from  this 
Towne  to  a  little  island  full  of  houses  in  the  Loyre.     Sandy  way. 

Thence  after  dinner  to  Pougues  ^,  in  the  Winter  a  Dirty  way 
and  deepe,  a  Woody  Country  and  a  league  or  two  from  the  Loyre, 
but  in  the  high  Rode  to  Nevers^ 

Last  of  Angus  t....l^eh  Nevers  in  the  way  to  Lyons® Lay  at 

Roanne'*,  a  large  towne  upon  the  River  of  Loyre ;  all  the  howses 
have  very  flat  broad  Roofs  and  large  Eves,  the  shops  on  arches  of 
stone ;  in  the  evening,  shut.  Wee  passt  it  to  the  Chapeau  Rouge, 
a  very  fair  Inn.  The  people  were  sitting  in  the  streets  peeling  of 
Hemp,  burning  of  the  stalks  to  give  them  light.  The  other  chief 
Inn,  which  is  the  Loup,  is  accounted  the  best  between  Lyons  and 

Paris The  Botes,  which  are  covered  with  Deale,  go  from  Hence 

to  Orleans  six  dayes^  which  [?]^  they  ask  demy  pistolP. ...The 
Custome  is  to  sell  a  Bote  here  for  i8  Livres,  And  the  boatmen 
will  carry  one  to  Orleans  tout  express  for  i6   crownes''.     The 

Boates  go  no  higher  up  the  River  then  2  leagues Roanne  has 

but  one  parish  church.... 


^  Sancerre.     See  p.  121.  ^  See  p.  121  for  the  bridge  at  La  Charite. 

^  Symonds  travelled  by  road,  while  Mundy  went  by  boat  down  the  Loire, 
and  would  thus  miss  Pougues,  which  is  not  on  the  river. 

*  See  p.  120. 

^  From  Nevers,  Symonds  went,  via  Moulins  and  La  Palisse  to  Roanne, 
while  Mundy  followed  the  Loire,  passing  Decize,  St  Aubin-sur-Loire  and 
Marcigny.     See  p.  120. 

®  Six  days  was  the  time  occupied  by  Pindar's  party  in  the  passage  from 
Roanne  to  Orleans. 

'■  Word  illegible. 

2  Apparently,  per  passenger.     See  note  i  on  p.  223. 

^  Pindar  only  paid  "Ten  Frenche  Crownes  per  boate."     See  p.  120. 


THE   NOTE-BOOKS   OF   RICHARD   SYMONDS  229 

Thence,  friday,  ten  of  the  clock,  wee  rode  over  a  hilly 
mountaynous  Country,  not  fruitfuU,  yet  having  in  the  narrow 
valleyes  many  pleasant  meadowes,  though  no  Rivers.... 

That  night  Wee  lay  at  Terrara^  in  a  hole,  a  little  bourg, 
unwald.... 

This  next  morning,  being  Satterday,  wee  passt  a  more  pleasant 
Country,  lesse  hilly,  more  Chasteaus  and  buildings.  At  noone 
got  into  the  mountayneous  descent  downe  to  Lyons. 

Lyons  is  very  Rocky  and  mountaynous  ground  in  that  side  of 
the  towne  We  enterd,  having  a  castle  upon  the  lofty  inaccessible 
Rock  towards  the  River  of  Soane.  A  long  street  at  bottome  of 
that  mountayne  on  the  Soane  side.  Two  bridges  over  the  Soane. 
At  the  second  Port  was  an  officer  to  take  our  names,  and  where 
wee  would  ly,  and  where  our  Cloke  baggs  were  opend.  The 
Evesche'  or  Cathedral  Church  is  not  large  nor  very  remarquable; 
tis  dedicated  and  caled  L'eglise  de  S.  Jean.  The  Exchange  for 
merchants^  all  Soane  side.  Many  steeples  coverd  with  Tin. 
Some  howses  with  divers  colourd  Tyles.  The  Belle  Cour  is  a 
large  flat,  and  Rowes  of  Trees,  where  the  people  sett  and  walke.... 
The  River  of  Roan  v/ith  his  swift  streame  runs  on  the  south  side 
of  the  towne;  both^  meet  in  the  lower  end  of  the  Citty.... 

I  have  not  yet  seene  in  all  this  Country  [France]  a  man  or 
woman  with  a  pimpled  red  drunken  face  Nor  a  Puritan  sqynt  eye, 
very  rarely.... 

Munday,  6  September,  one  of  the  clock,  left  Lyons,  tooke  the 
way  of  Turin,  a  playne  pleasant  way,  sandy  country  having 
pleasant  little  seates  [on  the]  sides  of  the  hills.  Seven  leagues  to 
Bolognie^.... 

Tuesday,  7  September.  Through  pleasant  Valleyes,  especially 
one  where  was  the  largest  and  fairest  meadow  I  have  seene  in 
France,  a  castle,  a  chasteau,  aloft  on  the  hill  and  a  handsome  village 
below.  Then  between,  some  woody  hills  but  the  valley  not  barren. 
Many  Chesnutt  Trees  in  this  passage.  The  Vynes  which  are  but 
few  are  supported  by  strong  crotches,  seven  or  eight  or  nine  foot 
above  ground,  then  Fenced.  Many  Vynes  run  up  into  the  lofty 
black  Cherry  Trees;  many  Timber  Trees  and  Walnutts  also. 

^  Tarare.     See  p.  119. 

^  Mundy  speaks  of  the  "great  Traffique"  at  Lyons.     See  p.  119. 

^  i.e.,  the  Saone  and  the  Rhone.     See  p.  119. 

*  Bolognie  seems  to  be  an  error  for  Bourgoin.     See  p.  118. 


230         APPENDIX  G,   EXTRACTS  FROM 

Wee  dyned  at  Pont  Bon  Voisin  \  two  leagues  and  halfe  on  our 

journey The   beginning   of  the  Hills.      This  was  the  Hemp 

Harvest  here,  for  all  their  brookes  are  stinkyfyd  with  that  [?]^ 
Sadade  de  Gascogne.  Two  Sangliers  heads  over  the  door  of  our 
Inn.... Here  wee  rode  over  a  pretty  Large  River  that  runs  to 
Grenoble  ^  Grenoble  is  five  Leagues  from  this  place  and  the 
Grand  Chartreux  is  three  or  four.  Over  this  bridge  wee  entred 
Savoy ^,  where  was  a  Guard  who  confirmed  our  Bill  of  Health. 
Wee  ascended  a  lofty  hill  which  is  calld  Le  Montagne  de  Gibelet^ ; 
a  pretty  large. lake"  afore  wee  came  at  it,  many  timbre  Trees  and 

Cottages  and  some  small  Churches Wee  arrived  at  Chambery, 

a  good  Ville,  the  Chiefe  of  Savoy.     The  people  call  it  Sambery. 

In  the  walls  of  this  Citty  and  suburbs  are  three  parish  Churches 

The  Howses  are  lofty  and  flat  roofd'^ — The  hills  are  lofty  round 
and  near  the  Citty.  Kill  Pigeons  putting  the  head  under  a  wing 
and  throw  it  to  the  ground.  The  Inhabitants  speak  French,  but 
most  with  a  smack  of  Italian''.  About  twelve  of  the  clock.  Wee 
left  this  Citty  and  rode  through  the  Valleyes  over  no  mountayne, 
but  wending  up  and  downe  in  a  pretty  valley.  Wee  past  many 
parishes,  yet  but  five  leagues  that  night... on  the  left  hand  we  left 
a  lofty  Castle  upon  the  Rock,  inaccessible,  commanding  a  pritty 
bourg  below  it,  both  calld  Mont  Mellian'';  1631,  The  King  of 
France  and  Cardinal  Richlieu  in  person  beseiged  it  14  moneths, 
after  drew  off  sans  rien  faire,  500  men  within  it.  Tis  always 
victuald  for  three  yeares.  There  are  five  places  one  above  another 
that  command  each  the  other.  The  low  walls  have  square 
musquet  holes  below  the  Top.  A  broad  River ^"  runs  by  this 
bourg. ...Wee  lay  at  Egbelle". ...Here  the  Mountaynes  are  the 
highest  yet,  and  snow  melting  and  running  downe,  The  Topp  and 

^  Pont  de  Beau  voisin.     See  p.  118. 

2  Word  illegible. 

^  Symonds  is  mistaken.  He  crossed  the  Rhone  at  Pont  de  Beauvoisin, 
while  Grenoble  is  on  the  Isere,  which  at  this  point  is  nowhere  near  the  main 
stream. 

*  See  p.  118.  ^  i.e.,  Aiguebelette.     Seep.  117  f. 

®  The  Lac  d' Aiguebelette.     See  p.  118. 

^  See  Mundy's  description  of  Chambery  on  p.  116  f. 

8  See  p.  114. 

^  The  "Mummelan"  of  Mundy.     Seep.  116. 

^*  i.e.,  the  Arc. 

^^  Aiguebelle.     Mundy  calls  the  place  Gabella.     Seep.  116. 


THE    NOTE-BOOKS   OF   RICHARD   SYMONDS  23 1 

sides  of  the  mountaynes  full  of  wood The  Embassaders  armes 

of  Venice  and  other  Countryes  are  in  the  Inn  or  post  howse^ 

It  raynes  almost  alwayes  on  the  top  of  the  Mountaynes. 

Thursday  morning,  at  seven  o'  the  clock,  wee  sett  out  and  got 
to  our  dining  place  by  twelve,  being  four  leagues  and  somewhat 
more.  This  passage  was  all  on  the  sides  of  the  Rocks,  by  a 
Rapid  shallow  strong  roring  River,  called  Lizere^,  which  goes  by 
Grenoble,  The  mountaynes  yet  loftyer  then  the  former,  and  a 
league  in  length ;  they  seeme  to  bee  ready  to  fall  on  our  heads. 
Many  great  stones  were  lying  below.  This  River  eates  up  the 
Valley^,  yet  there  are  Villages  and  small  Churches  on  the  sides  of 
the  Hills,  the  Sun  shone  from  the  early  morning,  yet  came  not 
on  the  South  side  of  the  way  till  about  ten  or  eleven  o'  the  Clock. 
Snow  in  some  places  on  the  top. 

Wee  dyned  at  La  Chambre*.  Neare  this  is  remayning  a 
Ruyned  old  Castle,  fortifyd,  And  a  Wall  afore  wee  caime  to  this 
towne  from  the  Rock  to  the  River  to  stop  the  passage,  but  not 
now  of  use.  This  journey  I  saw  many  of  the  villagers  with  great 
throats*,  especially  the  women ;  few  children  have  it.  Our  Host 
here  had  a  little  gullet.  I  askt  him  the  reason,  and  some  said 
twas  the  Snow  water.  He  laught  at  that,  and  said  it  was  the  Ayre ; 
he  never  dranke  any  Water  in  his  life.  Here  Plums  were  hangd  up 
by  the  stalks  in  strings,  one  not  touching  the  other,  thirty  or  forty 
in  a  string,  which  last  and  eat  well  at  a  year  or  two  old.  This  is 
the  middle  of  our  Journey.  The  language  here  is  chiefly  French, 
but  bad  enough*'.  Water  they  call  De  Leager;  depessa  for 
depesche,  make  hast;    for  ouy  they  say,  Way,  woy. 

After  dinner  by  the  River  side,  sometimes  over  bridges,  some 
of  large  Arches.  At  a  league  end,  wee  came  to  the  Bishoprick  of 
St.  Jean  de  Morian'',  a  pretty  bourg  or  Ville  till  wee  entred  it,  but 
within  so  close  and  stinking,  being  that  the  sun  enters  not  by 
reason  of  the  height  of  the  bowses  and  broad  Eves.  Here  is  but 
one  Church  and  One  Convent  of  Capucins  and  two  or  three  other 

^  Mundy  "lay  att  the  signe  of  the  Ramme"  at  Aiguebelle.     See  p.  116. 
'^  Read  L'Izere.     Symonds  mistook  the  Arc  for  the  Isere.     See  note  2 
on  p,  230. 

^  See  p.  115. 

*  Mundy  does  not  seem  to  have  stopped  at  this  usual  halting-place. 

^  Goitre.     See  p.  117. 

®  See  p.  114  f.  ^  See  p.  1 1 5  f . 


232  APPENDIX   G.      EXTRACTS   FROM 

houses  of  Religion.  Their  Timber  here  is  Sappin,  and  for  Tables 
and  Chairs,  walnutt.  Th[ey]  are  still  by  the  River  side\  the 
valley  being  still  eat  up  by  this  roaring  devourer.  Some  times  a 
little  church  and  two  or  three  howses  on  the  sides  of  the 
mountaynes.  The  Hills  Rocky  and  high,  Snow  in  some  places. 
In  all  villages  in  the  way  in  the  Crosses  is  cutt  a  place  where 
a  little  image  of  the  Blessed  Virgin  is.  Upon  a  bridge  this — 
En  passant  par  ce  lieu,  Salutez  La  mere  de  Dieu. 

Wee  lay  at  St.  Michel^,  a  close  nasty  bourg,  four  lieues 
distant  from  the  last  night.  A  Castle  aloft  comands  it,  small,  and 
not  much  fortifyd.... 

The  swelling  of  the  Throat  is  cald  De  Gouetre^  ou  Bron- 
chocesse,  Latin  Broconsolus.  This  landlord  also  was  swelld, 
and  he  says  tis  not  the  eyre  nor  water,  but  a  Rhume  that  falls 
from  the  head.  Those  that  live  above  in  the  mountaynes  have 
lesse  or^no  swelling.  This  River  nourishes  no  fish  but  Des  Truits, 
which  are  very  good. . . . 

Friday  morning.  Wee  rode  by  the  side  of  the  Rude  moun- 
teynes  and  Hills,  being  fuller  of  Deale  trees  then  the  former. 
The  rude  River  conteyning  almost  all  the  Valley "* 

Wee  dyned  at  Modene^,  a  small  Village,  three  lieues.  After 
dinner,  four  leagues  to  Lanbourg®,  a  small  village.  In  this  way, 
wee  saw  Higher  Mountayns  with  more  quantity  of  Greene  Trees, 
Vizt.,  de  Pine  and  de  Sapine ;  They  have  no  other  greene  Trees, 
as  the  inhabitants  say.  This  was  the  most  fearefull  passage'',  for 
the  way  was  high  oftentimes  and  the  downfall  hideous,  The 
River  runing  at  bottome,  which  many  times  could  not  be  dis- 
covered, did  it  not  discover  it  selfe  by  its  noyse.  Very  many 
sappins  of  divers  sorts  and  kinds.  The  Streight  sort  is  of  three 
kinds,  broad  tops  and  broad  long  leaves,  two,  smaller  leaves,  and 
another  sort.... This  is  at  the  bottom  of  the  two  high  mountaynes 
that  exceed  all  the  rest  in  this  passage.  Tis  calld  Mont  Sinnys®. 
Now  wee  turne  our  way  over  this  mountayne  on  the  right  hand, 

^  The  Arc.     See  p.  1 15. 

^  Mundy  dined  at  St  Michel.     See  p.  115. 

^  See  p.  117  and  ante,  p.  231.  ^  See  p.  115. 

®  Modane.     Mundy's  halting-place  was  Bramant.     See  p.  115. 

®  Lanslebourg.     The  Lambort  of  Mundy.     Seep.  114. 

^  Mundy  says  that  it  was  "wonderfull  steeple."     See  p.  113. 

^  Mt  Cenis.     Seep.  112. 


THE   NOTE-BOOKS   OF   RICHARD   SYMONDS  233 

leaving  the  River  on  the  left  hand.  Here  they  call  Claret  Wine, 
Vin  Ruggis,  Corruptedly  speake  such  kind  of  French  as  it  is 
generally,  though  divers  speake  corrupted  Italien^  Three 
Evesches  in  Savoye.  March  and  Aprill  are  the  most  dangerous 
moneths  to  passe  these  wayes. 

We  hyred  horses  Satterday  morning,  and  mules,  of  purpose  to 
mount  the  high  mountayne.      One  descended  in  a  Chaire  for  5^-.^ 

A  lake  on  the  top^ Grasse  mowing,  hay  in  Crocks  and  Snow 

in  great  abundance.  Lizards  and  Grasshoppers  skipping  and 
runing  in  the  descent  of  the  hill  and  was  as  hott  as  on  the  top  it 
was  cold.... 

Wee  dyned  at  La  Novaleze^  a  small  Bourg.  Here  wee  had 
our  title  of  health  allowd.  The  river  ^  descends  into  Savoye, 
which  is  the  snow  water  melted,  in  as  great  violence  as  the  other 
goes  the  other  way  to  Grenoble  ^  Now  wee  were  at  the  bottome 
of  the  Great  rocky  mountayne  that  divides  Savoy  and  Piedmont. 
After  dinner,  wee  went  with  the  River,  in  a  Valley  betweene  the 
Rocks,  and  Lay  at  St.  Ambrosio'^.  On  the  top  of  the  rock,  near 
this  bourg,  is  the  building  of  a  monastery  of  Benedictines,  very 
rich.  Here  the  inhabitants  carried  Dung  to  their  ground  in  a  low 
cart  of  four  equal  built  wheales,  drawn  by  two  oxen.  The  people 
speake  halfe  French  and  halfe  Italien  corrupt.  Five  leagues  this 
afternoon. 

Next  morning,  being  Sunday,  to  Turino,  Ten  myles,  for  now 
the  account  begins  by  Myles  of  This  passage.  Looking  behind  us, 
wee  saw  winter  and  felt  it  that  day  afore,  and  now  by  reason  of  the 
wind  and  fresh  grasse,  wee  seemed  to  be  in  the  spring,  and  anon 
in  the  height  of  Summer.  Many  Castles  in  Piedmont  upon  the 
frontiers.  One  which  was  on  our  right  hand  was  besieged  and 
had  four  armyes  at  one  time  at  the  siege  and  reliefe  de  Villiano^... 
The  Vineyards  in  the  way  side  are  much  different  from  those  of 

^  See  p.  114  f. 

^  Pindar  also  descended  the  mountain  "in  a  chaire  betweene  two  men," 
but  in  the  contrary  direction.     See  p.  113  f. 

^  See  p.  113. 

*  Mundy  "lodged  att  the  Posthowse "  at  Novalese  before  ascending 
Mt  Cenis  from  the  Italian  side.     See  p.  112. 

^  The  Dora  Riparia,  a  tributary  of  the  Po. 

"  See  anfe,  note  2  on  p.  230,  and  note  2  on  p.  231. 

^  Mundy's  halting-place  was  Bussoleno.     See  p.  ri2. 

^  Avigliana.     Mundy  calls  the  place  Viana.     See  p.  iii. 


234  APPENDIX   G.      EXTRACTS   FROM 

France.  For  a  Row  of  maples  growes  in  the  Corne  feilds, 
whereon  the  vynes  run  and  hang,  and  these  rowes  in  some  pasture 
feilds  grow  within  six  or  eight  foot  distant  in  two  rows  and  the 
vynes  are  conducted  upon  poles  betweene  each  other  ^.  Here 
the  plowd  land  was  deep  ridges  like  ours  in  England.... The 
prospect  of  Turin  is  a  company  of  dirty  red  flat  howses,  few  or  no 
steeples  onely  four  towres  coverd  with  Tin  of  the  dukes  palace. 

Turino^.  A  deepe  grasse  [?J^  and  well  fortifyd,  A  Cittadel 
entire  next  the  Alpes  sides.  Entering  the  port,  wee  showd  our 
bills  of  health,  and  the  officers  gave  us  a  ticket  of  health  to  be 
intertayned  at  our  Inn,  And  tooke  note  of  all  our  names.  At 
supper  the  servant  of  the  Hostelrye  takes  all  our  names  and  sends 
them  to  the  Governour. ...By  reason  of  the  Dutches  of  Savoy,  who 
is  sister  to  the  late  King  of  France **,  the  people  here  also  as  many 
French  as  Italian.... La  maison  de  madame  has  many  roomes 
furnisht  with  good  peices  of  painting.  All  the  Dukes  of  Savoy  on 
Horseback  in  a  large  roome.  All  the  Dutchesses  at  large  with 
other  ladyes  in  another  Roome.  Divers  peices  of  painting  upon 
board,  St.  John  Baptist  and  a  Jew,  old  and  rare  like  N.  Bruyns 
work.     Some  of  Michael  Angelo,  Not  many  of  Titian.... 

The  Stable  of  the  Duke  is  doubled  pillerd  within,  of  brick 
coverd  with  plaster,  three  horses  between  each  pillar,  poles  going 
between  each  horse.  The  Manger  differs  from  all  I  have  scene. 
There  is  no  Rack.  But  that  which  is  our  manger  is  the  place 
where  the  Hay  is  putt,  deeper  and  broader  then  ours,  Lathed 
below,  that  the  dust  may  fall  downe,  And  that  the  Hay  may  not 
be  blowne.  There  are  three  divisions  for  the  horse  to  put  in  his 
head,  that  are  made  onely  by  crosse  sticks.  He  eates  his  Gates  in 
a  small  square  box  is  made  at  one  corner.  A  Division  of  deale 
Boards  betweene  every  Horse.  This,  as  all  the  Stables  in  France, 
and  in  their  Accademyes,  is  pavd  with  Stone.  The  grasse  about 
this  Towne  is  broad  and  dry,  many  Gardens  at  bottome,  walks  of 
Brick  like  that  at  Callis  of  stone ^ 


1  See  Mundy's  description  of  the  Italian  vineyards  on  p.  105. 

'^  See  pp.  109 — III.  ^  Word  illegible. 

*  See  p.  110  for  the  marriage  of  Christine,  sister  of  Louis  XIII.,  to  the  heir 
to  the  dukedom  of  Savoy,  in  1619. 

^  The  remainder  of  //arl.  MS.  943,  with  the  exception  of  the  items  of 
expenditure  which  follow,  contains  notes  of  places  and  buildings  that  have  no 
connection  with  Mundy's  narrative. 


THE   NOTE-BOOKS   OF   RICHARD   SYMONDS  235 

To  the  Messenger  of  Nevers  from  Paris  to  Pougues,  9  Crownes, 
four  nights.  To  the  man,  xii^. ;  dyet  and  lodging  15  days  at 
Pougues,  at  52^.  a  day.... Dyet  and  lodging  at  Nevers  at  the  Troys 
Carreaux  at  30(/.  a  day... lost  at  cards,  two  pistols... lost  at  Tennis^ 
i.f.  bd.  To  the  fellow  that  playd  the  messenger  for  us  from 
Nevers  to  Lyons,  four  dayes  Journey  from  Nevers  to  Lyons,  from 
Tuesday  morning  8  o'clock,  arrived  at  Lyons  one  Satterday 
afternoone,  30  livres,  30  francs.  At  Le  feu  de  France  in  Lyons 
at  ^od.  a  day  To  Tuesday  noone,  7th  September,  two  days;  a 
Coach  ride,  5^". ;  priests  dinner,  \^d.;  shoes,  50^.;  To  servants,  2od. 

To  the  Fellow  for  horses  to  Turin,  being  seven  dayes,  at 
3  pistols  and  halfe,  13  livres;  in  that  Journey  fiom  Lyons  to 
Turin  at  /^od.  a  day  giving  to  servants  and  all 

To  the  Viturino  or  guide  that  went  a  foot  and  fed  our  horses, 
25^. ;  gloves,  2od. ;  Bootes  setting  up,  3  livres,  15  sols^  of  Turin. 
Lodging  and  eating  at  the  Rosa  Rossa  in  Turin,  three  dayes  at  3 
livres  a  day  of  Turin,  13  livres  to  a  pistol  of  Spayne 

\^th  September,  from  Turyn  to  Genoa,  two  pistoUs  and  halfe. 
Bill  of  health  at  Turin,  30^. ;  Dinner  by  the  way,  an  eg  and  a  frog 
and  ill  wyne,  151^.... 

^  See  pp.  98  and  roo. 


LIST  OF  FULLER  TITLES  OF  BOOKS  AND 
MANUSCRIPTS  QUOTED  AND  REFERRED 
TO  IN"  THE  FOOT-NOTES  AND  INTRO- 
DUCTION. 

Abdy,   Sir  Thomas.     A  journal!.. .of  my  travells  in  France. ..1633 — 
1635.     (^Rawl  MS.  D.   1285.) 

Additional  MSS.  (British  Museum  Library) : 

10623.     See  Chiswell,  Richard. 
19278 — 19281.     See  Mundy,  Peter. 
22978.     See  Pococke,  Richard. 
33420.     See  Tonkin,  Thomas. 
34177.     See  Italy — Travel  and  Topography. 
Bargrave,    Robert.     A   Relation  of  sundry  Voyages   and  Journeys, 

1646— 1656.     {Rawl.  MS.  C.  799.) 
Barton,  Edward.     The  Journey  of     See  Purchas  His  Pilgrimes. 
Baudier,  Michael.     See  Grimston,  Edward. 
Bell,    Richard.     An   account   of  the   voyages   and   travells  of,  from 

Lisbon    to    Jerusalem    in    anno    1669.      (Part    III.    of    Sloane 

MS.  811.) 
Bent,  J.  Theodore.     Early  Voyages  and  Travels  in  the  Levant.     The 

Diaries   of   Thomas    Dallam    and    Dr   John    Covel.      (Hakluyt 

Society's    Publications,    ist    Series,    No.    LXXXVII.)      London, 

1893. 
Blau,  Otto.     Reisen  in  Bosnien  and  der  Hertzegowina.     Berlin,  1877. 
Blount,  Henry.     A  Voyage  into  the  Levant.    3rd  ed.    London,  1638^. 
Boase,    G.    C.,    and    Courtney,    W.    P.      Bibliotheca    Cornubiensis. 

2  vols.     London,   1874. 
Bodleian  Library,  MSS.  at.     See  Rawlinson  MSS. 
Boesbec,  Auger  Ghislin.     See  Busbequius. 
Bridges,  John.     Note-book  of  travels  in  Italy  &c.,  1687 — 8.     {Rawl. 

MS.  D.  207.) 
British  Museum  Library,  MSS.  at.    See  Additional  MSS. ;  Harleian 

MSS.  ;  Lansdowne  MS. ;  Sloane  MSS. ;  and  Stowe  MSS. 
Burke,   Sir  J.   Bernard.     Genealogical  and  heraldic   History  of  the 

extinct    and    dormant    Baronetcies    of    England,    Ireland    and 

Scotland.     2nd  ed.     London,   1844. 

^  For  the  full  title  of  this  work,  see  Appendix  A,  p.  146. 


LIST   OF   FULLER   TITLES   OF   BOOKS,   ETC.  237 

Bumell,  A.  C.     See  Yule,  Col.  H. 

Busbequius,  A.  G.  (Auger  Ghislin).  Travels  into  Turkey :  Con- 
taining the  most  accurate  Account  of  the  Turks  and  neighbouring 
nations,  Their  Manners,  Customs,  Religion,  Superstition,  Policy, 
Riches,  Coins,  &c.  Translated  from  the  Original  Latin.  London, 
1744- 

Calendars  of  State  Papers.  Colonial  Series,  East  Indies,  China  and 
Japan,  1599 — 1634.     London,  1862 — 1892. 

Calendars  of  State  Papers.     Domestic  Series.     London,  1856  &c. 

Camden  Society,  Publications  of  The.  See  Glanville,  John,  and 
Symonds,  Richard. 

Carew,  Richard,  of  Antonie.    The  Survey  of  Cornwall.    London,  18 12. 

Cawston,  George,  and  Keane,  A.  H.  The  Early  Chartered  Com- 
panies.    London,   1896. 

Chardin,  Sir  John.  The  Travels  of,  into  Persia  and  the  East  Indies, 
Through  the  Black  Sea,  and  the  Country  of  Colchis.  Containing 
the  Author's  Voyage  from  Paris  to  Ispahan.  To  which  is  added 
The  Coronation  of  this  present  King  of  Persia,  Solyman  III. 
London,  1691. 

Chishull,  Edmund,  B.D.  (Chaplain  to  the  Factory  of  the  Worshipful 
Turkey  Company  at  Smyrna).  Travels  in  Turkey  and  back  to 
England.     London,   1747. 

CMswell,  Richard.  Journal  of  travels  through  Germany  and  Italy  to 
Scanderoon... March — July,  1696.     {Add.  MS.  10623.) 

Clarke,  Dr  E.  D.  Travels  in  various  Countries  of  Europe,  Asia  and 
Africa.     6  vols.     Cambridge,  18 10 — 1823. 

Clenche,  John.  A  Tour  in  France  and  Italy  made  by  an  English 
Gentleman  [J.  C],  1675 — 1676.     London,  1676. 

Constantinople.  Voyage  de  France  a,  in  ?  1583.  {Harl.  MS.  6796.) 
See  also  Stampes,  Mr. 

Cornwall,    Conveyances,  deeds,  &c.,  17th  Century.    {Harl.  MS.  62. a,'^.) 

Cornwall,  Visitation  of,  in  1620.  (Harleian  Society's  Publications, 
vol.  9.     London,   1874.) 

Coryat,  Thomas.  Coryat's  Crudities  Hastily  gobled  up  in  five 
Moneths  travells  in  France,  Savoy,  Italy,  Rhetia... Helvetia. ..and 
the  Netherlands.. .now  dispersed  to  the  nourishment  of  the  travel- 
ling Members  of  this  Kingdome.  Reprinted  from  the  161 1  ed. 
2  vols.     Glasgow,  1905. 

Coulon,  Le  Sieur.  La  Fidele  Conducteur  pour  le  Voyage  de  France. 
Montrant  exactement  les  Raretez  et  choses  Remarquables  qui  se 
trouvent  en  chaques  Villes,  et  les  distances  d'icelles,  avec  un 
denombrement  des  Batailles  qui  s'y  sont  donnees.  Paris,  1654. 
(ist  ed.   1643.) 

Coulon,  Le  Sieur.  Le  Fidele  Conducteur  pour  le  Voyage  d'Espagne. 
Montrant  exactement  les  Raretez  &c.     Paris,  1654. 

Coulon,  Le  Sieur.  Les  Rivieres  de  France  ou  Description  Geo- 
graphique  et  Historique  du  cours  et  debordement  des  Fleuves, 
Rivieres,  Fontaines,  Lacs  et  Estangs  qui  arrousent  les  Provinces 
du  Royaume  de  France.     Paris,  1644. 

Court  Minutes  of  the  East  India  Company,  1599 — 1858.  (East  India 
Company's  MS.  Records.) 


238  LIST   OF   FULLER   TITLES   OF   BOOKS,    ETC. 

Courtney,    J.    S.     A    Guide    to    Penzance    and    its   neighbourhood. 

Penzance,  1845. 
Courtney,  W.  P.     See  Boase,  G.  C. 

Covel,  Dr  John.  The  Diary  of.  See  Hakluyt  Society's  Pubhcations. 
Dallam,  Thomas.  The  Diary  of.  See  Hakluyt  Society's  PubHcations. 
De  Beauveau,  Henri,  Baron  de  Beauveau  et  de  Maronville.    Relation 

Journaliere  du  Voyage  du  Levant.     Nancy,  1619. 
D.  0.,  Le  Sieur.     See  Des  Hayes. 
Delia  Valle,  Pietro.     Les  Fameux  Voyages  de...avec  un  denombre- 

ment  tres-exact  des  choses  les   plus   curieuses,  et   les   plus  re- 

marquables  qu'il  a  veues  dans  la  Turquie...     4  vols.     Paris,  1664. 
Des  Hayes,  Loiiis,  Baron  de  Courmemin.     Voiage  de  Levant.     Fait 

par  le  Commandement  du  Roy  en  I'annee  1621.     Paris,     ist  ed. 

1624.     3rd  ed.  1645. 
Dictionarium  Etymologicum  Latinum.     See  Holyoke,  Francis. 
Dictionary,  Italian.     See  Fanfani. 
Dictionary,  A  Nautical,     See  Smyth,  W.  H. 
Dictionary  of  National  Biography.     London,  1885— 1903. 
Dictionary,  The  Oxford  English.     See  Murray,  Dr  J.  A.  H. 
Dictionary,  Turkish.     See  Redhouse,  J.  W. 
Dictionnaire  Historique.     See  Moreri,  Louis. 
D'Oksza,  Th.     Histoire  de  L'Empire  Ottoman  depuis  sa  Fondation 

jusqu'a  la  Prise  de  Constantinople.    Tome  i.    Constantinople,  187 1. 
Du  Loir,   Le  Sieur.     Voyages. ..Ensemble  de  ce  qui  se  passa  a  la 

mort  du  feu  Sultan  Mourat  dans  le  Serrail,  &c.  &c.     Paris,  1654. 
Dumont,  Le  Sieur.     A  New  Voyage  to  the  Levant  :   Containing  An 

Account  of  the  most  Remarkable  Curiosities  in  Germany,  France, 

Italy,  Malta  and  Turkey  ;  With  Historical  Observations  relating 

to  the  Present  and  Ancient  State  of  those  Countries.     2nd  ed. 

London,  1696. 
Du  Verdier,  Le  Sieur.     Le  Voyage  de  France,  par  Jodocus  Sincerus 

(Jean  Zinzerling),  dresse  pour  la  commodite  des  Frangois  et  Estran- 

gers...Corrige  et  augment^  par  le  Sieur  Du  Verdier.     Paris,  1655. 

East  India  Company's  Eecords.  See  Court  Minutes  ;  Factory  Records. 
Englefield,    Sir  Francis,   Bart.     Travels  in   France  and  Italy,   1695. 

{Rawl.  MS.  D.  197.) 
Evliya  Efendi.     Narrative  of  Travels  in  Europe,  Asia  and  Africa  in 
the  seventeenth  Century,  Translated   from   the  Turkish  by  the 
Ritter  Joseph  von  Hammer.     London,  1834. 
Factory    Records,    Surat,    vol.    2.      (East    India    Company's    MS. 

Records.) 
Fanfani,  Pietro.     Vocabolario  della  Lingua  Italiana.     Firenze,  1855. 
France.     History.     See   Histoire   de    France   &c. ;    R.   B.,   An   Epi- 
tome &c. 
France.     Travel  and  Topography. 

Direction  for  some  person  who  intended  to  travel  into  France 
and  Italy  ;  being  a  short  account  of  the  roads,  chief  cities, 
and  of  some  rarities  worthy  to  be  seen,  circ.  1620.  {Harl. 
MS.  288,  p.  284.} 


LIST   OF   FULLER   TITLES   OF   BOOKS,   ETC.  239 

France.     Travel  and  Topography  {co?it.). 

A   Briefe   description   of  my  travels   taken   by   my  selfe  anno 

domini  1648  [unsigned].     {Rawl.  AIS.  D.  120.) 
A  Journall  of  a  voyage  thro'  France  and   Italy   1658 — 1659. 

(S/oane  MS.  2142.) 
See  also  Clenche,  J.  ;    Gentlemans  Guide,  The  ;    S.  D. 
Fraser,   Charles.     See  Naima. 

Gainsford,  Thomas.     The  Glory  of  England ^     London,  1618. 
Galland,  Antoine.     Journal  de,  pendant  son  sejour  a  Constantinople, 
1672 — 1673,  publie  et  annote  par  Charles  Schefer.     2  vols.    Paris, 
1881. 

Gentlemans  Guide,  The,  in  his  Tour  through  France,  wrote  by  an 
Officer  in  the  Royal  Navy.  London.  4th  ed.  1770.  9th  ed., 
with  additions  by  T.   Martyn,   1787. 

Glanville,  John.     The  Voyage  to  Cadiz  in  1625.     Being  a  journal 

written  by  John   Glanville.     Edited  by  A.  B.  Grant.     (Camden 

Society's  Publications.)     London,  1883. 
Grimston,    Edward.     The    History  of  the    Imperiall    Estate   of  the 

Grand    Seigneurs.      Translated    from    the    French    of    Michael 

Baudier.     London,   1635^. 

Hakluyt  Society's  Publications,     See  Bent,  J.  Theodore. 
Hammer,  J.  (von).     Histoire  de  I'Empire  Ottoman  depuis  son  Origine 

jusqu'a  nos  jours.     Ouvrage  puise  aux  sources   les  plus   authen- 

tiques  et  redi^e  sur  des  documents  et  des  manuscrits  la  plupart 

inconnus  en  Europe.     Traduite  de  rAllemand...par  J.  J.  Hellert. 

18  vols.     Paris,  1835 — 1841. 
Hammer,  J.  (von).     See  Evhya  Efendi. 

Harby,  Sir  Erasmus.    His  Manuscript,  vol.  2nd.    {Ratvl.  MS.  A.  414.) 
Harleian  MSS.     288.     See  France.     Travel  and  Topography. 
"  943.     See  Symonds,  Richard. 
1278.     See  Symonds,  Richard. 
2286.     See  Mundy,  Peter. 
6243.     See  Cornwall. 
6796.     See  Constantinople,  Voyage  k. 
Harleian  Miscellany,  The,  or  a  Collection  of  Scarce  and  Curious 

and  Entertaining  Pamphlets  and  Tracts... Found  in  the  late  Earl 

of  Oxford's  Library.     Vol.  V.     London,  1745. 
Harleian  Society's  Publications.     See  Cornwall,  Visitation  of. 
Hellert,  J.  J.     See  Hammer,  J.  (von). 
Heylyn,  Peter.     A  Full  Relation  of  two  Journeys  :  the  one  into  the 

Mainland  of  France.    The  other  into  some  of  the  adjacent  Islands. 

Performed  and  digested  into  Six  Books.     London,  1656. 
Histoire  de  France,  Abr^gd  Chronologique  de  1',  sous  les  Regnes  de 

Louis  XIII.  et  Louis  XIV.     2  vols.     Amsterdam,  1720. 
Hobhouse,  J.  C.     A  Journey  through  Albania  and  other  provinces  of 

Turkey  in  Europe  and  Asia  to  Constantinople  during  the  years 

1809  and  1 8 10.     2  vols.     London,   181 3. 

^  For  the  complete  title  of  Gainsford's  work,  see  Appendix  E,  p.  187,  note  i. 
^  For  the  full  title  of  Grimston 's  work,  see  p.  25  and  Appetidix  E,  p.  182, 


240  LIST   OF   FULLER   TITLES   OF   BOOKS,  ETC. 

Hobson-Jobson.     See  Yule,  Col.  H.,  and  Burnell,  A.  C. 

Holyoke,  Francis.     Dictionarium  Etynnologicum  Latinum.     London, 

1633^ 
Indian  Antiquary,  The,  A  Journal  of  Oriental  Research.     Bombay, 

1872  &c. 

Irvine,  William.  The  Army  of  the  Indian  Moghuls.  Its  Organiza- 
tion and  Administration.     London,  1903. 

Italy.     Travel  and  Topography. 

Account  of  a  Journey  over  Mount  Cenis  into  Italy  with  de- 
scription of  Turin,  Milan,  &c.   1661.     {Add.  ATS.  34177.) 

A  Brief  Account  of  the  Roads  of  Italy  for  the  Use  of  Gentlemen 
who  travel  with  the  Post,  with  a  full  description  of  the 
Cities,  Towns,  Villages  and  Rivers,  &c.  &c.    London,  1775. 

Nouveau  Guide  du  Voyageur  en  Italie.     Milan,  1829. 

A  true  Description  and  Direction  of  what  is  most  worthy  to 
be  seen  in  all  Italy.     See  Harleian  Miscellany. 

See  also  Lascells,  Richard ;  Pococke,  Richard ;  Yriarte,  Charles. 

J.  C.     See  Clenche,  John. 

Johnson,  John  Willes.  The  Traveller's  Guide  through  France,  Italy, 
and  Switzerland,  &c.     London,  1828. 

Journall,  A,  of  a  Gentleman  in  the  retinue  of  the  Ambassador  of  the 
Levant  Company  who  left  London  for  Constantinople  6  Aprill 
1687.     See  Bridges,  John. 

J.  V[allardi].  Itin^raire  d'ltalie  ou  description  des  voyages  par  les 
routes  les  plus  fr^quentees  qui  conduisent  aux  principales  villes 
d'ltahe.     Milan,   1819. 

Keane,  A.  H.     See  Cawston,  George. 

Kelly,  Dr  P.  The  Universal  Cambist  and  Commercial  Instructor. 
2  vols.     2nd  ed.     London,   1835. 

Keppel,  Major  The  Honble.  George.  Narrative  of  a  Journey  across 
the  Balcan...in  the  years  1829 — 1830.     2  vols.     London,  1831. 

Knolles,  Richard.  The  General  Historie  of  the  Turkes  from  the  first 
beginning  of  that  Nation  to  the  rising  of  the  Othoman  Familie  : 
with  all  the  notable  expeditions  of  the  Christian  Princes  against 
them.  Together  with  the  Lives  and  Conquests  of  the  Othoman 
Kings  and  Emperours.  With  a  new  continuation,  from  the  yeare 
of  our  Lord  1629  unto  the  yeare  1638  faithfully  collected.  The 
Fift  edition.     London,  1638. 

La  Mothe,  M.  C.  J.  de  B.,  Countess  d'Aulnoy.  Relation  du  Voyage 
d'Espagne.     2nd  ed.     3  vols.     La  Haye,  1692. 

Lansdowne  MS,  720.  Voyage  d'ltalie.  (Contains  an  account  of  the 
travels  in  Italy  of  some  very  learned  and  intelligent  Frenchmen 
between  the  years  1574  and  1578.) 

Lascells,  Richard.  An  Account  of  the  Journey  of  Lady  Catherine 
Whetenal  from  Brussels  into  Italy,   1650.     {Sloane  MS.  4217.) 

Le  Bruyn,  Corneille.  Voyages  au  Levant,  c'est  a  dire  dans  les 
principaux  endroits  de  I'Asie  Mineure,  Dans  les  Isles  de  Chio, 
Rhodes,  Chypre,  &c.  &c.     5  vols.     Paris,   1725. 

1  For  a  fuller  title  of  this  work,  see  note  7  on  p.  155. 


LIST   OF   FULLER   TITLES   OF   BOOKS,   ETC.  24I 

LithgOW,  William.  The  Totall  Discourse  of  the  Rare  Adventures 
and  painefull  Peregrinations  of  long  nineteene  Yeares  Travailes... 
in  Europe,  Asia  and  Affrica...     London,  1632. 

Long,  Charles  Edward.     See  Symonds,  Richard. 

Menzies,  Sutherland.  Turkey,  Old  and  New.  Historical,  Geo- 
graphical and  Statistical.     2  vols.     London,   1880. 

Moreri,  Louis.  Le  Grand  Dictionnaire  Historique,  &c.  Amsterdam, 
1717 — 1718. 

Moryson,  Fynes.  An  Itinerary  written  First  in  the  Latine  Tongue, 
and  then  translated  by  him  into  English  containing  his  Ten 
Yeeres  Travell  &c.     London,  161 7. 

Mundy,  Peter.     Itinerarium  Mundii.     {Rawl.  MS.  A.  31 5 1.) 

Mundy,  Peter.  A  Briefe  Relation  of  Certaine  Journeies  and  Voyages. 
{Harl.  MS.  2286  and  Add.  MSS.  19278—192801) 

Mundy,  Peter.  Journal  of  a  voyage  of  a  fleet  of  four  ships  and  two 
pinnaces,  set  forth  by  Sir  William  Courteene,  Knt.  {Add.  MS. 
19281.) 

Murray,  James  A.  H.,  LL.D.  A  new  English  Dictionary.  Oxford, 
1888  &c. 

Naima.  Annals  of  the  Turkish  Empire  from  1591  to  1659  of  the 
Christian  Era.  Translated  from  the  Turkish  by  Charles  Fraser. 
London,  1832. 

Nichols,  John.  The  Progresses,  Processions,  and  Magnificent  Festi- 
vities of  King  James  the  First,  his  royal  Consort  and  family  &c. 
4  vols.     London,  1828. 

Nichols,  John.  The  History  and  Antiquities  of  the  County  of 
Leicester.     4  vols.     London,  181 1. 

Norden,  John.  Speculi  Britanniae  Pars.  A  Topographical  and  His- 
torical Description  of  Cornwall  (in  1610).     London,  1728. 

Osborne,  T.  A  Collection  of  Voyages  and  Travels. ..relating  to... 
Asia,  Africa,  America,  Europe,  or  the  Islands  thereof,  from  the 
earliest  account  to  the  present  time.. ..Compiled  from  the. ..Library 
of  the  late  Earl  of  Oxford.     2  vols.     London,  1745. 

Pearson,  John  Batteridge.  A  Biographical  Sketch  of  the  Chaplains 
to  the  Levant  Company,  maintained  at  Constantinople,  Aleppo 
and  Smyrna,   161 1 — 1706.     Cambridge,  1883. 

Peck,  Francis.  Letters  with  pedigrees  and  information,  &c.  {Add . 
MS.  24121.) 

Philipot,  John.  A  Perfect  Collection  or  Catalogue  of  All  Knights 
Batchelaurs  made  by  King  James  since  his  comming  to  England. 
London,  1660. 

Pinkerton,  John.  A  General  Collection  of  Voyages  and  Travels  in 
all  parts  of  the  World.     17  vols.     London,  181 1 — 18 14. 

Pococke,  Richard.  Tour  through  France  and  Northern  Italy,  1733 — 
1734.     {Add.  MS.  22978.) 

^  For  full  title,  see  p.  i. 

^  See  note  2  on  p.  i  and  Inti-oduciion. 

M.  16 


242  LIST   OF   FULLER   TITLES   OF   BOOKS,  ETC. 

Pococke,  Richard.  A  description  of  the  East.  See  Pinkerton's 
Voyages. 

PouUet,  Le  Sieur.  Nouvelles  Relations  du  Levant  qui  contiennent 
diverses  remarques  fort  curieuses....Avec  une  exacte  description 
de  I'Empire  de  Turc  en  Europe  &c.     2  vols.     Paris,  1668. 

Purchas,  Sam.  His  Pilgrimage  or  Relation  of  the  World,  &c. 
London,  1626. 

Purclias,  Sam.     His  Pilgrimes,  &c.     4  vols.     London,  1625. 

Ealegh,  Sir  Walter,  Knight.  The  Historie  of  the  World  in  Five 
Bookes.     London,    1634. 

Rawlinson  MSS.     A.  315.  See  Mundy,  Peter. 

A.  414.  See  Harby,  Erasmus. 

C.  799.  See  Bargrave,  Robert. 

D.  120.  See  France.     Travel  and  Topography. 
D.  197.  See  Englefield,  Sir  F. 

D.  207.     See  Bridges,  John. 

D.  1285.     See  Abdy,  Sir  Thomas. 

E,  B.  An  Epitome  of  All  the  Lives  of  the  Kings  of  France.  From 
Pharamond  the  first  to  the  now  most  Christian  King  Lewis  the 
thirteenth.  Translated  out  of  the  French  Coppy  by  R.  B[rath- 
wait  ?].     London,  1639. 

Record  Office,  The  Public,  MSS.  at.  See  State  Papers,  Foreign 
Archives. 

Kedhouse,  J.  W.    English  and  Turkish  Dictionary.     London,  1856. 

Robson,  Charles.  Newes  from  Aleppo.  A  Letter... Containing  many 
remarkeable  occurrences  observed  by  him  in  his  journey  hither. 
London,  1628. 

Sanderson,  John.     The  Voyage  of  (in  Purchas  His  Pilgrimes). 

Sandys,  George.  A  Relation  of  a  Journey  begun  An:  Dom:  1610.... 
Containing  a  description  of  the  Turkish  Empire,  &c.  London. 
1st  ed.   1615.     7th  ed.   1673^ 

Schefer,   Charles.     See  Galland,  Antoine. 

S.  D.  A  description  of  Picardy,  the  isle  of  France,  and  La  Beauce, 
being  the  particuler  observations  of  S.  D.,  1675.    {Siowe  MS.  916.) 

SinceniS  (Jodocus)  pseud,  {i.e.  Jean  Zinzerling).     See  Du  Verdier. 

Sloane  MSS.     811.     See  Bell,  Richard. 

2142.     See  France.     Travel. 
4217.     See  Lascells,  Richard. 

Smyth,  W.  H.,  Admiral.     The  Sailors'  Word  Book.     London,  1867. 

Somerset  House,  Documents  at.     Wills  of  the  17th  century. 

Spain.    Travel.     See  Coulon,  Le  Sieur  ;  and  La  Mothe,  M.  C.  J.  de  B. 

Stampes,  Mr.  Observations  in  his  voyage  to  Constantinople,  1609. 
{Stowe  MS.  180.) 

^  For  the  full  titles  of  the  ist  and  7th  editions  of  Sandys'  work,  see  note  6 
on  p.  26  and  note  3  on  p.  192. 


LIST   OF   FULLER   TITLES   OF   BOOKS,   ETC.  243 

State  Papers,  Foreign  Archives.    Levant  Company. 

Venice. 
Turkey. 

Stow,  John.  A  survey  of  the  cities  of  London  and  Westminster... 
brought  down  from  the  year  1633. ..to  the  present  time  by 
J.  Strype.     2  vols.     London,  1720. 

Stowe  MSS.     180.     See  Stampes,  Mr. 
gi6.     See  S.  D. 

Struys,  John.  Voyages  and  Travels,  Through  Italy,  Greece,  Mus- 
covy, Tartary,  Media,  Persia,  East  India,  Japan,  and  other 
Countries  in  Europe,  Africa  and  Asia,  &c.  &c.  Done  out  of 
Dutch,  By  John  Morrison.     London,  1684. 

Symonds,  Richard.  Travels  in  France  and  Italy.  {Harl.  MSS.  943 
and  1278^) 

Symonds,  Richard.  Diary  of  the  Marches  of  the  Royal  Army  during 
the  great  Civil  War.  Edited  from  the  Note-Books  of  Richard 
Symonds.  By  Chas.  Edward  Long.  London,  1859.  (Camden 
Society's  Publications.) 

Tavernier,  J.  B.  Collections  of  Travels  Through  Turkey  into  Persia, 
and  the  East-Indies,  Giving  an  Account  of  the  Present  State  of 
those  Countries... Together  With  a  Relation  of  the  Kingdom  of 
Japan  and  Tunkin...A  New  Description  of  the  Grand  Seignior's 
Seraglio... Being  the  Travels  of  Monsieur  Tavernier,  Bernier  and 
other  great  Men.     2  vols.     London,  1684. 

Taylor,  Major  John.  Travels  from  England  to  India  in  the  year 
1789. ..with  Instructions  for  Travellers.     London,  1799. 

Thevenot,  Monsieur  de.  The  Travels  of,  into  the  Levant.  In  Three 
Parts,  viz.  Into  I.  Turkey.  II.  Persia.  III.  The  East  Indies. 
London,  1687. 

Tierney,  Mark  Aloysius.  The  History  and  Antiquities  of  the  Castle 
and  Town  of  Arundel,  including  the  biography  of  its  Earls,  from 
the  Conquest  to  the  present  time.     London,  1834. 

Times  Newspaper,  The.  The  issues  of  28th  Jan.  and  20th  March 
1873.     (For  Garraway's  Coffee  House.) 

Tonkin,  Thomas.  Collections  for  the  History  of  Cornwall.  {Add. 
MS.  33420-) 

Tournefort,  N.  A  Voyage  into  the  Levant :  Perform'd  by  Command 
of  the  Late  French  King.  Containing  the  Antient  and  modern 
State  of  the  Islands  of  the  Archipelago  ;  as  also  of  Constantinople, 
the  Coasts  of  the  Black  Sea,  Armenia,  Georgia,  &c.  &c.  2  vols. 
London,  171 8. 

Wadmore,  Jas.  Foster.  Some  Account  of  the  Worshipful  Company 
of  Skinners  of  London.     London,  1902. 

Wilkinson,  Sir  J.  Gardner.  Dalmatia  and  Montenegro:  with  A 
Journey  to  Mostar  in  Herzegovina  and  Remarks  on  the  Slavonic 
Nations,  &c.  &c.     London,  1848. 

1  For  the  full  titles  of  Harl.  MSS.  043  and  1278,  see  Appendix  G,  p.  217, 
note  I. 

16 — 2 


244  LIST   OF   FULLER   TITLES   OF   BOOKS,   ETC. 

Wyche  Family,  The.  Notes  on.  See  Peck,  F.  {Add.  MS.  24 121.) 
Inventory  of  the  Estate  of  Richard  Wyche.  See  Harby,  Sir 
Erasmus.     {Rawl.  MS.  A.  414.) 

Yriarte,  Charles.  Les  Bords  de  I'Adriatique  et  le  Montenegro. 
Paris,  1878. 

Yriarte,  Charles.  Venise.  Histoire,  arts,  Industrie,  la  ville,  la  vie,  &c. 
Paris,  1878. 

Yule,  Col.  Henry,  and  Burnell,  A.  C.  Hobson-Jobson.  A  Glossary 
of  Colloquial  Anglo-Indian  Words  and  Phrases.  New  ed. 
London,  1903. 

Zinzerling,  Jean.     See  Du  Verdier. 


INDEX. 


Abbeville,  Pindar's  party  lialt  at, 
xlviii,  132,  220  n.  3;  description 
of,  131  ;?.  6,  132  «.  1,  220,  221  ; 
pistols  made  at,  132  7i.  i  ;  churches 
at,  220 

Abbot,  Bartholomew,  passenger  on 
the  Koy  ill  Alerchant,  xxiii,  14,  15  ; 
escorts  Pindar  from  Constantinople, 
44,  45  ;  takes  leave  of  Pindar,  47, 
47  n.  I 

Abbot,  George,  Archbishop  of  Can- 
terbury, succeeds  Bancroft,  136  11.  i 

Abbot,  Sir  Morris,  owner  of  the 
Rovall  Merchant,  xxiii,  15  n.  i, 
166,  167  ;  Chas.  Vivian  bound  to, 
xxiii  11.  4,  15  «.  2  ;  Governor  of 
the  East  India  Co.,  15  n.  i  ;  a 
member  of  the  Levant  Company, 
42  n.  5 

AbduUa  Ckhaun  ('Abdullah  Khan), 
governor  of  Patna,  8 

Abdy,  Anthony,  a  member  of  the 
Levant  Company,  42  ;/.  5 

Abdy,  Sir  Thomas,  Roger  Vivian 
accompanies,  on  the  Continent, 
xxiii  11.  4  ;  his  Travels  (Razvl.  MS. 
D.  1285)  referred  to,  117  n.  6,  126 
«.  3 

Absa.     See  Hafsa 

Abydos,  castle,  on  the  Asiatic  side 
of  the  Dardanelles,  157,  157  «.  2, 
197,  198 

Account  of  the  Roads  of  Italy  referred 
to,  99  n.  3,  loi  n.  4,  106  n.  4 

Achin,  a  factory  settled  at,  9; 
Mundy  makes  two  visits  to,  9 

Adda,  river,  Pindar's  party  cross  the, 
xliii,  106,  106  n.  2 

Add.  MS.  10623.  See  Chiswell, 
Richard 

Add.  MS.  22978.  See  Pococke, 
Richard,    Travels  of 

Add.  MS.  24121  (Peck's  notes  on 
the  Wyche  family),  referred  to,  158 
n.  3 


Add.  MS.  27332,  referred  to,  93  71.  3 

Add.  MS.  33420,  contains  extracts 
from  Mundy's  MS.,  Ixii 

Add.  MS.  34177  (Journey  over  Mt. 
Cenis),  referred  to,   108  n.  5 

Add.  MSS.  19278 — 19281,  contain 
copies  of  Mundy's  voyages  to  India 
and  China,  Ixi 

Adige,  river,  floating  mills  on  the, 
72  n.  4 

Adrianople,  Pindar's  party  halt  at, 
xxviii,  XXX,  49,  49  n.  ■i,;  a  guard 
accompanies  Pindar  from  Constanti- 
nople to,  xxxiii ;  the  Grand  Signior's 
house  at,  xxx,  49 ;  description  of 
the  road  from  Constantinople  to, 
45  n.  6,  46  n.  2,  48  71.  4,  184,  212, 
215,  216;  Mundy's  and  other  de- 
scriptions of,  49,  49  n.  4,  156,  211 ; 
description  of  the  road  to  Philip- 
popolis  from,  60  ;  other  names  for, 
155,  156,  211  ;  by  whom  built  and 
repaired,    155 

Adriatic  Sea,  xli,  147  ;  marriage  of 
the  Doge  of  Venice  to  the,  95, 
96  n.  I 

Adventure,  the,  169 

Agha.     See  Kdpi  dgha 

Agra,  capital  of  Hindustan,  4,  10 ; 
removal  of  the  Court  from,  4  n.  3  ; 
Mundy  journeys  to,  7,  8,  10;  Shah 
Jahan's  entry  into,  8 ;  description 
of,   8 

Ahmad  L,  Sultan  of  Turkey,  im- 
prisons A.  Garraway,  14  n.  11  ; 
grandson  of  Sulaiman  I.,  195  ;  his 
sons,  22  n.  i;  appoints  Mustafa  his 
successor,  22  «.  i  ;  Mundy  sees,  32, 
33  ;  his  mosque  at  Constantinople, 
33  n.  I,  35  n.  4;  portents  at  close 
of  his  reign,  39  n.  4;  Cossack  raids 
in  his  reign,  63  n.  i ;  his  treatment 
of  the  English,  177;  number  of  his 
"virgins,"  198;  death  of,  xxiv,  21, 
22  71.  I,  178 


246 


INDEX 


Aiguebelette,   Pindar  precedes  his 

attendants    to,    xlv,    117;    Mundy 

dines   at,   118;    other  spellings   of 

the  name,   115  n.  4,    118  n.  3 
Aiguebelette,  Lac  d',  abundance  of 

fish  in  the,  118,  118  w.  i;  Symonds' 

remarks  on  the,  230 
Aiguebelette,     Mont    d',     Pindar's 

party    cross   the,    xlvi,    117,    118; 

steepness   of  the,    118,    118  n.  2; 

Symonds  ascends  the,  230 
Aiguebelle,  Pindar's  party  lodge  at, 

xlv,  116;  description  of,  116  n.  2; 

Mundy's  spelling  of,  116,  116  n.  2; 

Symonds  lodges  at,  230;  character 

of  the  country  round,  230 
'■Ajenii-oghldn,  49  n.  4 
Ak  Palanka.     See  Bela  Palanka 
Alau'ddm  III.,  confers  insignia  on 

Osman  L,  64  n.  i 
Alba  Graeca.     See  Belgrade 
Albanian  Alps,  79  n.  i 
Alcadia,  no   English  merchants  at, 

16 
Alcazar,  the,  in  Seville,  xxi,  xxi  n.  4 
Aleppo,  xxiv,  liv,    160,    173 
Alexander  the  Great,  19  n.  2,  55, 

154  n.  I,  210 
Alexander  III.,   Pope,    inaugurates 

the    ceremony  of   the  marriage  of 

the  Adriatic,   96  n.  i 
Alexandretta.     See  Scanderoon 
Alexandria,     Symonds    travels    to, 

217  11.  I 
Algarve,  province,  xxii,  xxii  n.  5 
Algiers,  45  n.  3 
Aliaga,    confessor    to     Philip   III., 

intrigues     against     the     Duke     of 

Lerma,    140  n.  2 
Alicante,  Mundy  touches  at,   15 
Ali   Sultan   Khalifeh.      See  Biiriin 

Kasim 
Alleppo  Merchmit,  the,  Mundy  makes 

his  third  voyage  to  India  in,  xvi, 

xlii,  lix,  10,  103,  103  n.  5 
Alps,  Pindar's  party  cross  the,  xliv, 

112;  towns  among  the,  mean,  xlv, 

117 
Ambassadors,    in    Constantinople, 

Iv,    14  n.  II,   22  n.  I,   35  n.  2,  36, 

36    n.  3,    37,  41,  41  n.   3,  43,  45 

n.  6,  47  n.  3,  64,  65,  175,  180,  191, 

196,  214;   in  Venice,  xli,  93,   108 

n.  6,  126,  126  n.  2  ;  in  Turin,  xliv, 

109 ;  in  England,  92  ;z.  3 
Amboise,  George  d'.  Cardinal,  mini- 
ster of  Louis  XII.,  xix  n.  3  ;   the 

great  bell  at  Rouen  named  after, 

xix  n.  3 
America,  6 


Amphitheatre,  at  Verona,  Mundy's 
description  of,  101,  102;  Sandys' 
description  of,  xlii,  lix,  102,  103  ; 
Coryat's  description  of,  103  n.  4 

Amsterdam,  Mundy's  voyage  to,  9 

Amurath  IV.     See  Murad  IV. 

Amusements.     See  Pastimes 

Anatolia,  governor  of,  62  w.  2 

Ancre,  Marechal  d',  murder  of,  Iv, 
129,  129  n.  i;  his  house  in  Paris, 
129  7t.  I,  225 

Andalusia,  fertility  of,  xxii 

Angel,  The,  inn  at  Sian,  xliv,  109 

Angerville,  Pindar's  party  reach, 
xlvii,  123,  123  ;z.  6;  road  from 
Paris  to,  described,  xlvii,    124 

Antigonus,  battle  between  Eumenes 
and,  154  71.  1 

Antoninus,  column  of,  at  Rome, 
196 

Appendix,  Mundy's,  to  his  MS.,  10; 
Mundy's,  when  added,  lix,  10  n.  1 

Apsley,  Sir  Allen,  recommends 
Lawrence  Spike,  42  w.  i 

Aqua  dulce.  See  Fresh  Waters, 
The 

Aquapulco,  Mundy's  intended  voy- 
age to,  6 

Aqueduct  at  Constantinople,  189, 
190  ;  made  by  the  Emperor  Valen- 
tinian,  195 ;  repaired  bySulaiman  I., 

195 

Arabia,  map  of,  in  Mundy's  MS., 
6  n.  I,  30  n.  2 

Ararat,  mts.,   19  n.  2 

Arc,  river,  Pindar's  party  follow  the, 
xlv,  115,  115  n.  3;  rapidity  of  the, 
xlv,  115,  115  n.  3,  115  n.  4,  116 
n.  2,  230,  230  7i.  10,  231,  232 ; 
why  so  called,   115  «.  3 

Arcadius,  Emperor,  his  deeds  com- 
memorated on  the  Historical  Pillar, 
34  n.  2,   196  n.  2 

Archangel,  Mundy's  travels  to,  6, 
9,   II 

Archipelago,  the  Greek,  20,  167, 
213,   214 

Armada,   the  Spanish,  xx  n.  6 

Armenians,  at  Constantinople,  their 
churches,  25,  185 ;  in  Pindar's 
train,  43,  43  n.  4  ;  occupations  of 
the  poorer  class  of,  76  ;  intermarry 
with  Bulgarians,  xxxvi,  76 ;  their 
spoliation   of  the   Cordeliers,    199 

71.    2 

Arpajon  (Chatres),  road  from  Paris 
to,  populous,  xlvii,  124;  Pindar's 
party  lodge  at,  xlvii,  124;  situation 
of,  123  ti.  6,  124  n.  2  ;  when  so 
named,   124  n.  2 


INDEX 


247 


Arsenal,  at  Venice,  the,  Mundy's 
description  of,  xli,  93-97 ;  other 
descriptions  of,  93  n.  5,  94  n.  i, 
95  n.  I,  97  n.  I  ;  how  guarded,  96 

Artenay,  Mundy's  party  pass  through, 
xlvii,  123,  123  n.  6 

Arundel,  Thomas  Howard,  Earl  of, 
his  sons  study  at  Padua,  100,  100 
«.  I 

Arz-oda,  Hall  of  audience,  at  Con- 
stantinople, 36  ;  by  whom  erected, 
36  n.  I  ;  Tavernier's  description  of, 
36  n.  I 

Ascension  Day,  ceremonies  in 
Venice  on,  xli,  95,  95  n.  3,  96  ;«.  i 

Asia,  map  of,  in  Mundy's  MS., 
6  n.  I ;  the  Hellespont  divides, 
from  Europe,   197 

Asper,  aspero,  aspre,  77  n.  2,  81, 
177,  186  ;  value  of  an,  27,  81  n.  7 

At-maidan,  the,  at  Constantinople, 
32,  34  n.  I ;  Sanderson's  descrip- 
tion of,  32  11.  3;  Grimston's  de- 
scription of,  32  n.  3;  Sandys'  de- 
scription of,  32  n.  3 ;  column  of 
serpents  set  up  in,  33  n.  i  ;  the 
Egyptian  pyramid  in,  33  ii.  1 ; 
compared  with  SmithfieJd,  195; 
the  ancient  name  for,    195 

Augustins,    Convent   of,    in   Paris, 

125    71.  5 

Augustus  Caesar  (Octavius),  be- 
sieges Salona,  147  n.  3 ;  defeats 
Brutus  and  Cassius,  153,  154  n.  i 

Austria,  68  n.  4,  201  ;  Duchy  of 
Milan  ceded  to,  105  n.  8;  contends 
with  France  for  the  Valtellina,  153 
n.  I 

Avertpiller.     See  La  Verpilliere 

Avigliana,  Pindar's  party  lodge  at, 
xliv,  III;  castle  at,  1 1 1,  1 1 1  «.  5  ; 
description  of,    in  n.  4;  siege  of, 

233 

Avret  Bazar,  the,  at  Constantinople, 
29,  34,  186,  190,  194 ;  for  what 
used,  34  n.  i,  34  n.  2,  196  n.  i  ; 
the  Historical  Column  in,   196 

Ayachapezi,  the  holy  gate,   185 

Ayamonte,  Mundy  goes  to,  xxii,  14, 
24;  situation  of,  xxii,  14  «.  4;  figs 
and  oil  exported  from,  xxiii 

Ayasophia.     See  S.  Sophia 

Babaeskeesee.     See  Eski  Baba 
Baden     Treaty    of,    effect    of,    on 

Milan,    105  «.  8 
Badgers,  in  England,  5 
B  air  am,  amusements  at  the  feast  of 

the,  58,  59;  observance  of  the,  58 

n.  2,   184 


Bajazet.     See  Bayazld 

Balkan,  mountains,  xxxi,  61 ;  robbers 
lurk  among  the  passes  of,  61  n.  3; 
separate  Bulgaria  from  Roumania, 
209  ;  other  names  for,  209 

Baltic  Sea,  the,  Mundy's  voyage  to, 

9.  II 

Banairaca,  river,  204 

Bancroft,  Archbishop  of  Canterbury, 
succeeded  by  Abbot,  136  «.  i 

Bantam,  East  India  Company's 
factory  at,    162 

Barbarossa,  Frederick,  defeated  by 
the  Venetians,  96  ft.  i 

Barbary  Corsairs,  in  the  Mediter- 
ranean, 16  fi.  7,   171 

Barbyses,  river,  44  «.  4 

Barcelona,  market  for  pilchards  at, 
137  n.  6 

Baretti.     See  Neuman  and  Baretti 

Bargrave,  Isaac,  Dean  of  Canter- 
bury, father  of  Robert  Bargrave, 
215  n.  "2 

Bargrave,  Robert,  his  Voyages  and 
Journeys  (Rawl.  MS.  C.  799)  re- 
ferred to,  see  notes  on  pp.  48,  55, 
56,  89,  90,  91,  96,  99,  137  ;  ex- 
tracts from  his  Voyages  andjmirneys, 
215,  216;  son  of  Isaac  Bargrave, 
215  n.  2 

Barnes,  Sir  Thomas,  49  n.  3 

Barton,  Sir  Edward,  ambassador  to 
the  Grand  Signior,  his  journey 
from  Constantinople  to  Belgrade, 
47  n.  3 ;  first  resident  ambassador 
at  Constantinople  for  the  Levant 
Company,  171 
Bashds,  grandees,  21  n.  6,  29,  36  n. 
4,  49  n.  4,  64  7t.  I ;  Mustafa  deposed 
by  the,  21  ;  of  Buda,  75;  riches 
of  the,  at  Constantinople,  186, 
188,   189;   houses  of  the,  at  Pera, 

191 
Basing  House,  Mundy's  visit  to,  xvi 
Bassano(Giacomo  da  Ponte),  picture 

by,  in  the  Louvre,  225 
Bastille,  the,  224 
Batachin.     See  Batotschina 
Baths,  at  Constantinople,  29,  37,  37 
n.  1,  184,   190;  Mundy's  remarks 
on,   in   Turkey,   xxxi,   Iv,    53,    54 ; 
Blount's  remarks  on,   53  n.  2 ;  at 
Belgrade,  xxxv,  73,  74;  at  Sophia, 

152 
Batotschina,  Pindar's  party  dine  at, 
xxix,  xxxiv,  71;  other  spellings 
of  the  name,  71  n.  i ;  palangha  at, 
7 1  «.  I ;  robbers  in  the  neighbour- 
hood of,  7 1  «.  I ;  Des  Hayes  dines 
at,  203 


248 


INDEX 


Battacala  (Bhatkal),  settlement  of 
factory  at,  9 

Baudier,  Michel,  of  Languedoc,  his 
work  translated  by  Grimston,  25, 
183  n.  2  ;  full  title  and  contents  of 
his  work,  183  n.  1;  born  in  Lan- 
guedoc, 183  «.  2.  See  also  Grim- 
ston, Edward 

Bavaria,  201 

Bayazid  II.,  mosque  of,  at  Con- 
stantinople, 35  7t.  4  ;  enlarges  the 
Top-khdna,  39  tz.  1 ;  size  of  S. 
Sophia  in  the  time  of,  194  ;  defeats 
Selim  at  Chorlu,  212 

Bayonne,  Muridy  stays  a  year  at, 
XV,  xvii,  13,  24;  Mundy's  second 
visit  to,  116  71.  5,  138,  139  Ji.  3, 
145;  Mundy's  remarks  on,  xx ; 
costume  of  the  inhabitants  of,  de- 
scribed, XX ;  expulsion  of  the  Eng- 
lish from,  XX 

Bazistdns,  markets,  at  Constantinople, 
29)  37>  37  '«•  3-  185-  186,  189,  190, 
194 ;  Mundy's  description  of,  Iv, 
53,  54;  various  descriptions  of, 
53  n.  I ;  at  Belgrade,  xxxv,  73  ;  at 
Adrianople,  211 

Beamond,  Farnam,  travels  in  Pin- 
dar's train,  41;  leaves  Pindar  at 
the  Fresh  Waters,  44 ;  overtakes 
Pindar  at  Chorlu,  48 

Beaulieu,  on  the  Loire,  227 

Beaumont,  Mundy's  description  of, 
xlviii,  131  ;  situation  of,  131  n.  3, 
222;  Symonds' description  of,  222  ; 
distance  between  Paris  and,  222, 
222  71.  2 ;  character  of  the  country 
surrounding,    222 

Beauvais,  Pindar's  party  dine  at, 
xlviii,  131  ;  description  of,  131  «.  6, 
221,  222  ;  character  of  the  country 
surrounding,  221  ;  situation  of, 
compared  with  Salisbury,   221 

Beglerbeg  (begler-begi) ,  Bey  of  Beys, 
of  Rumelia,  62,  62  n.  2,  152,  208, 
2  r  I  ;  sends  a  guard  to  Pindar,  66, 
208  ;  of  Buda,  transferred  from  Bel- 
grade to,  20I 

Bela  Palanka  (Musa  Palanka,  Ak 
Palanka),  Pindar's  party  re-inforced 
at,  xxix,  xxxiv,  68,  69;  other  names 
for,  68  71.  r,  205  ;  Des  Hayes  halts 
at,  205 

Belgrade,  arrival  of  Pindar's  party 
at,  xxxv,  1,  43  n.  4,  72;  waggons 
hired  from  Constantinople  to,  xxxvi, 
44 ;  post  road  from  Constantinople 
to,  xxviii,  xxix,  xxx,  45  7i.  6,  214; 
forests  of,  48  «.  3  ;  taken  by  Sulai- 
man  the  Magnificent,  52  n.   i,  74 


71.  4,  149,  201,  201  71.  i;  Pindar 
hires  a  house  at,  xxxvi,  72  ;  floating 
mills  at,  xxxv,  xlvi,  72,  72  7Z.  4, 
149,  I  .so;?,  i;  Blount's  remarks  on, 
72  71.  I,  149;  PouUet's  description 
of,  72  71.  I ;  abundance  of  fish  at, 
xxxv,  73,  73  71.  I,  200;  buildings 
at,  xxxv,  73,  200,  200  71.  3;  castle 
and  fortress  at,  xxxv,  74,  74  ;z.  i, 
74  w.  2,  149,  150,  151,  200;  Bus- 
bequius'  description  of,  74  7Z.  i ; 
ferry-boats  at,  xxxv,  75 ;  boats  at, 
for  transport  of  salt,  75;  ordnance 
at,  xxxv,  75,  200;  Pindar  hires 
horses  at,  xxxvi,  75,  81;  governor 
of,  75,  201 ;  Pindar's  party  leave, 
xxxvi,  78,  201  «.  3;  Poullet's  re- 
marks on  the  road  from,  to  Sara- 
jevo, 80  7z.  5  ;  time  occupied  in  the 
journey  between  Valjevo  and,  149, 
149  7t.  3;  ancient  names  of,  149, 
199;  graveyard  at,  149;  Zindana 
tower  at,  151;  Des  Hayes' descrip- 
tion of,  199,  200,  2ot;  route  taken 
by  Des  Hayes  to  Constantinople 
from,  199  7i.  1 ;  compared  with 
Constantinople,  199;  inhabitants 
of,  xxxv,  Iv,  201  ;  description  of 
the  country  around,  200 ;  stations 
of  the  Orient  Express  between  Con- 
stantinople and,  xxviii,  xxix ;  time 
occupied  in  the  journey  from  Con- 
stantinople to,  xxix,  xxxv,  xxxvii 

Bell,  Richard,  his  Joiir7ial  {Sloa/ie 
MS.  811)  referred  to,  15  «.  7,  16 
71.  2,  17  «.  2,  17  ;z.  3;  confined  in 
the  lazaretto  at  Leghorn,  17  ;«.  2 

Belonius,  his  estimate  of  the  number 
of  doors  in  S.  Sophia,    194 

Bengal,   7,  10 

Bergasse.     See  Lule  Burgas 

Bernay,  Pindar's  party  dine  at,  xlviii, 
132;  Symonds  halts  at,  220,  220 
71.  I  ;  description  of  the  country 
around,   220 

Berry,  province,  227,  228 

Bessarabia,  a  portion  of,  called 
Bugdamia,  51  11.  1 

Bey  of  Beys.     See  Beglerbeg 

Beziers,  in  Languedoc,  Des  Hayes 
beheaded  at,  199  7i.  2 

Biscay,   province  of,    138,    139,    139 

7t.    2,    139  71.    3,    142   71.    I 

Biscina,  ambassador  at  Venice  from 
Savoy,  93  77.  4 

Bishopsgate  Street  Without, 
Pindar's  house  in,   1,    136  7i.  3 

Bithynia,   197 

BiyukChekmeje,  Pindar's  party  en- 
camp   near,    xxviii,    xxx,    46,    47  ; 


INDEX 


249 


bridge  at,  xxx,  46,  46  «.  4,  215; 
other  names  for,  46  n.  4,  47  n.  3, 
73  «.  4,  164,  213;  Sulaiman  re- 
builds the  bridge  at,  195 ;  Des 
Hayes  dines  at,   213 

Blackamoor's  Head,  The,  at  S. 
Jean  de  Maurienne,    115 

Black  Notley,  Richard  Symonds 
born  at,   217  n.  i,  218  n.  5 

Black  Sea,  the,  xxv,  xxxiii,  20,  24, 
27,  47  n.  4,  62,  149,  183,  187,  191, 
195,  202  ;  extent  of,  near  Pompey's 
Pillar,  21;  Sandys'  description  of, 

197 

Black  Tower,  the,  on  the  shore  of 
the  Bosphorus,    197 

Blackwall,  coaches  hired  from,  to 
IsHngton,  xlix,    136 

Blau,  Otto,  his  Reisen  in  Bosnien 
referred  to,   80  n.  4 

Blount,  Henry,  his  Voyage  into  the 
Levant  referred  to,  see  notes  on 
pp.  21,  26,  47,  48,  49,  53,  54,  61, 
62,  63,  69,  71,  72,  74,  78,  79,  86, 
88  ;  his  route  to  Constantinople,  45 
n.  6,  49  n.  4,  146  w.  3  ;  Mundy 
quotes  from  his  work,  Ivi,  11  n.  i, 
146-157  ;  full  title  and  contents  of 
his  work,  146,  146  n.  2,  146  «.  5  ; 
account  of,  146  n.  4 

Boar,  wild,  flesh  of,  palatable,  20 

Boats,  at  Belgrade,  xxxv,  75  ;  hired, 
from  Calais  to  Dover,  134,  134 
n.  1  ;  hired,  from  Gravesend  to 
Blackwall,  xlix,  136;  hired  from 
Roanne  to  Orleans,  xlvi,  120,  228, 
228  n.  9  ;  description  of,  at 
Roanne,  228 

Bodleian  Library,  the  only  com- 
plete copy  of  Mundy's  MS.  at  the, 
Ivii,  Ixiii 

Bodmin  Priory,  connection  of  the 
Mundys  with,   xiv 

Boesbec,  Auger  Ghislin.  See  Bus- 
bequius 

Bonny,  Pindar's  party  pass,  121, 
121  n.  6,  122  7t.  1;  a.  walled  town, 
227;  description  of  the  country 
from  Briare  to,   227 

Bordeaux,  1 16  it.  5  ;  Mundy  passes 
through,  116  ;?.  5,  139 

Bore,  on  the  Seine,  Mundy's  de- 
scription of,   xix 

Boromeo,  Carolus,  Cardinal  of 
Milan,  canonized,  106,  106  n.  7 ; 
buried  in  the  Duomo,  Iv,  106,  107  ; 
description  of  his  tomb,  xliii,  106 
;/.  7,  107;  Lithgow's  opinion  of, 
106  n.  7 

Borovaglava,  plateau,  Pindar's  party 


reach  the,  xxxix,  84;  other  names 
for,  84  n.  I 

Bosna,  river,  82  n.  2 

Bosna  Serai.     See  Sarajevo 

Bosnia,  mountains  of,  xxxvi 

Bosnia,  pasha  of,  81  «.  6 ;  Sarajevo 
the  capital  of,  148,  148  n-  1 

Bosnians,  quarrel  between  the  Ve- 
netians and,  xxxvii,  xxxviii,  81, 
81   n.   6 

Bosphorus,  the,  183,  193,  194  ;  ex- 
tent of,  197  ;  castle  on  the  shore  of, 
197 

Boulogne,  Pindar's  party  lodge  at, 
xlviii,  132  ;  description  of,  132, 
132  n.  8,  219;  country  around, 
compared  with  Cornwall,  219 

Bourg-la-Reine,  Pindar's  party 
reach,  xlvii,  124;  Mundy's  and 
Coryat's  names  for,   124,  124  n.  5 

Bourgoin,  Pindar's  party  dine  at, 
xlvi,  118;  called  Bolognie  by  Sy- 
monds, 229,  229  n.  \-j  country 
from,  to  Pont  de  Beauvoisin  de- 
scribed,  229 

Bramant,   Pindar's   party  lodge  at, 

"5 
Brampore  (Burhanpur),  8 

Breda,   Treaty  of,   xvi,  lix 
Brenta,  river,  98  n.  5  ;  locks  on  the, 

98,    98   11.   6 ;    country   houses    on 

banks  of  the,  xlii,  98,  99  n.  r 
Brescia,    Mundy's     description    of, 

xliii,  104 ;  sufferers  from  goitre  at, 

xliii,    104 ;    other    descriptions    of, 

104  n.  3  ;  arms  made  at,  104  n.  3  ; 

subject  to  the  Venetians,  104  «.  3 ; 

situation  of,  104  ;/.  4 
Brett,  Sir  Alexander,  testifies  to  the 

efficiency  of  Francis  Lowe,  45  n.  3 
Briare,  Pindar's  party  pass,  121,  121 

n.  8,    122   n.    i;   barrenness  of  the 

country  around,   227 
Brioni,  L,   Pindar's  party  sail  past, 

xl,  89,  89  n.  3 
Brissac,  Louis  XHI.  reconciled  with 

Marie  de  Medici  at,  128  n.  4 
British    Museum,    the,    copies    of 

portions    of    Mundy's    voyages   at, 

Iviii,  Ix,  Ixi 
Brittany,   Mundy's  visit  to,  lii,  143, 

143  n.  7 
Brutus,  defeated  by  Augustus  Caesar, 

153,  154,  154  n.  I 
Bucentaur,  Mundy's  description  of 

the,  xli,  95,  96  ;  destruction  of  the, 

96  n.  I 
Buckingham,   Marquis    of,    recom- 
mends Sir  John  Eyre  to  the  Levant 

Co.,  179;   incapacity  of  his  nomi- 


250 


INDEX 


nee,  i8o,  i8i ;  his  influence  in 
Eyre's  favour,  182;  Gainsford's 
book  dedicated  to,   187  11.  i 

Buda,  xxxiii,  65,  85  «.  4,  150  n.  i, 
201,  204;  Bdshd  of,  75 

Buffaloro,  107,  107  n.  2 

Bugdamia  or  Bugdania,  51  ;  dis- 
trict designated  by,  51  «.  1 

Bulgaria,  61,  62  n.  i,  69  n.  5,  77 
n.  2,  151,  201,  214;  how  separated 
from  Servia,  204,  209;  compared 
with  Servia,  206 ;  Christian  popu- 
lation of,  207 

Bulgarians,  xxxvi  43  n.  4 ;  costumes 
of  the,  Iv,  76,  77,  77  n.  i,  207,  216  ; 
ornaments  of  the,  76,  77,  77  n.  r; 
food  of,  77,  77  n.  2,  206,  207  ; 
dances  of,  77,  78;  language  of,  78, 
78  n.  I,  207,  207  fi.  I,  216 

Bull-fights,  at  Valladolid,  141 

Burgas.     See  Lule  Burgas 

Burnt  Column,  the,  34,  34  n.  3, 
35;  description  of,  35  «.  2;  erected 
by  Constantine  the  Great,  196,  196 
n.  3;  relics  beneath,  196  n.  3 

Burun  Kasim,  ambassador  from 
Shah  'Abbas  to  the  Grand  Signior, 
Iv,  65,  65  n.  I  ;  his  reception  at 
Constantinople,   65 

Busbequius,  A.  G.  (Boesbec,  Auger 
Ghislin),  his  Travels  into  Turkey 
referred  to,  see  notes  on  pp.  21,  34, 
35)  51,  52,  54'  60,  62,  68,  69,  70, 
72,  73.  74.  77,  78 

Bussoleno,  Pindar's  party  dine  at, 
xliv,  112;  a  halting-place  for  Mt. 
Cenis,  112  n.  i,  233  n.  7 

Byzantium.     See  Constantinople 


Cadiz,  Mundy's  voyage  to,  14,  24 
Cadiz,  the  Bay  of,   14  n.  i 
Caesar,  Julius,  his  engagement  with 

Pompey,  153,  154,  154  iz.  i 
Caique,  a  boat,  28,  38  n.  2 
Cairo,  Osman's  intended  removal  to, 
22  n.  r  ;  Blount's  voyage  to,  146, 
157  n.  4 
Calabria,   Duke  of,  son  of  Rene  of 

Sicily,  no  n.  r 
Calais,  Pindar's  journey  from  Paris 
to,  xlviii,  130,  131  n.  6;  Pindar's 
party  lodge  at,  133;  description  of, 
xlviii,  133,  133  ti.  3;  fortifications 
of,  xlviii,  133,  133  n.  3,  133  n.  7; 
churches  at,  xlviii,  133,  133  n.  5  ; 
Pindar's  departure  from,  delayed, 
xlviii,  134;  mole  at,  134;  Pindar's 
party  cross  to  Dover  from,  xlviii, 
xlix,  134,  136;  packet-boat  service 


from  Dover  to,  218 ;  cost  of  passage 

from  Dover  to,  218;  description  of 

the  country  round,  219;   Symonds' 

expenses  to  Paris  from,   222,  223; 

"walks"  in,  compared  with  those 

at  Turin,   234 
Calendar  of  State   Papers,    Colonial 

Series,   East   Indies,    referred    to, 

15  n.  2,  23  n.  4,   168 
Calendar  of  State  Papers,   Domestic 

Series,   referred   to,    see    notes    on 

pp.    13,  42,  44,  45,  92,   139,  161, 

168,  182 
Calvaire,  Mount,  nunnery  in  Paris, 

226 
Cambrai,   165 
Cambridgeshire,  compared  with  the 

country  around  Poix,  220 
Camburgas.     See  Kumburgas 
Camden    Society,    Publications    of 

the,  Symonds'  Diary  of  the  Marches 

of  the  Royal  Army,  referred  to,  217 

n.  I 
Camels,  8 
Campbell,    John,    confined    in    the 

lazaretto  at  Leghorn,    17  «.  2 
Campi   Philippici.     See  Philippick 

Fields 
Canals,  in  Venice,  98 
Candia,    Pindar    hires    a    house   at 

Venice   of    the   Governor   of,    91; 

taken  from  Venice  by  the  Turks, 

91  n.  6 
Candyssh,  Thomas,  his  portrait  in 

Mundy's  MS.,    11  n.  i 
Cannaregio,  xli,  91,  91  «.  3 
Canterbury,  Pindar's  party  lodge  at, 

xlix,   135  ;   Mundy's   description  of 

the  cathedral  and  city  of,  xlix,  135; 

Symonds  posts  to  Dover  from,  218 
Canterbury,  Archbishop  of,  Pindar 

entertained  by  the,  xlix,    136 
Canton,  river,  9 
Capello,     Girolamo,     governor     of 

Candia,  91  n.  6 
Cape  Merchant  (supracargo),  8 
Caphila,  Mundy's  journey  with  a,  8, 

10 
Capi  Agha.     See  Kdpi  agha 
Capoochee    Bashee.     See  Kapiji- 

has  hi 
Cappee  Keoy.     See  Kapuli 
Caramoussal,      Carmousal,      Cara- 

mussale,  a  Turkish  merchantman, 

38  n.   3 
Caratch,    a   poll-tax    at   Constanti- 
nople, by  whom  paid,   26,    186 
Cardinal's   Hat,    The,   at  Vercelli, 

xliv,   109 
Caristran.     See  Karistran 


INDEX 


251 


Caroches,  1-29  n.  1;  hired  at  Padua 
for  Pindar's  party,  xlii,  100;  defi- 
nition of,   100  11.  3 

Carpathian,  mountains,  68  n.  4 

Cassanpasha  Palanca.  See  Hassan 
Pasha's   Palanka 

Cassius,  defeat  of,   154,    154  n.  i 

Castello,  Vincentio,  a  Greek,  a 
member  of  Pindar's  train,  43  ;  left 
at  Paris  to  wait  on  Dominico, 
xlviii,   42  71.  5,   130,   130  ;/.  4 

Castile,   139,   139  n.  3 

Castleman,  Richard,  travels  in  Pin- 
dar's train,  41  ;  made  free  of  the 
Levant  Company,   41   «.  8 

Castro  Marin,  Mundy's  visit  to,  14; 
situation  of,  xxii,  14  n.  5;  figs  and 
oil  exported  from,  xxiii 

Cat  and  the  Bell,  The,  at  Lodi, 
xliii,   106 

Catch,  a,  hired  from  Calais  for  Pin- 
dar's party,  xlviii,  xlix,  134;  defini- 
tion of,    134  n.  I 

Cathedrals,  at  Seville,  xxi;  at  Milan, 
xliii,  106,  107 ;  at  Paris,  see  Notre 
Dame;  at  Canterbury,  xlix,  135 

Catherine,  the  Infanta,  wife  of 
Charles  Emanuel  of  Savoy,  no 
n.   5 

Caucasus,  mountains,  19  n.  2 

Cavalcaselle,  Pindar's  party  reach, 
xlii,  103;  distance  of,  from  Venice, 
103,  103  n.  7 

Cavaletta,  the,  inn  at  Verona,  xlii, 
loi,   loi  n.  5 

Cayalucke.     See  Kialik 

Caymalcam.     See  Kd^inmakan 

Cenis,  mt.,  112  11.  i,  112  n.  2; 
Gainsford's  description  of,  112  «.  3, 
113  n.  5;  Mundy's  account  of  the 
crossing  of,  xlv,  113,  114;  Lake  at 
the  top  of,  xlv,  113,  113  «.  2,  233  ; 
house  built  for  Christine  of  France 
on,  xlv,    113;  height  of,   xlv,   113, 

113  n.  1;  descent  of,  xlv,  113  n.  2, 

114  n.    I,  148,   232,   233;    inns  in 
the  district  of,   poor,   1x5  n.  6 

Certificates,  of  efficiency,  from  Pin- 
dar to  his  escort,  xxxiv,  69;  of 
health,  xl,  xli,  88,  90,  230,  233, 
234>   235 

Cesy,  Monsieur  de,  French  ambas- 
sador at  Constantinople,  xxvii,  43 
n.   I 

Cettina,  river,  84  n.  i,  84  Ji.  7,  85 
n.  I,  8^  n.  4.;  Pindar's  party  cross 
the,  xxxix,  85 

Chambery,  Pindar's  attendants  lodge 
at,  xlv,  ri6,  117;  description  of, 
xlv,   116  7Z.  4,  116  «.  6,   117,   117 


n.  2,  117  n.  5,  117  n.  6,  230; 
language  of  the  inhabitants  of,  230 

Champion  country,  open  ground, 
xxx,  50  u.  2,  60,  60  n.  I,  153,  220, 
222 

Change  Alley,  Garraway's  CofTee 
House  in,   14  «.  11 

Chapeau  Rouge,  Le,  at  Roanne, 
228 

Chapman,  John,  .  provisional  am- 
bassador at  Constantinople  till 
Roe's  arrival,   41   «.  3,    181 

Chardin,  Sir  John,  his  account  of 
the  Levant  Co.  quoted,   172-174 

Charles  I.  of  England,  Peter  Wyche 
sent  to  Spain  by,  163 ;  George 
Sandys,  a  gentleman  of  the  Court 

of,     192    71.   3 

Charles  V.,  Emperor,  105  7t.  8; 
improves  Valladolid,   140  ti.   i 

Charles  VI.,  of  France,  Pont  S. 
Michel  built  in  the  reign  of,  125 
w.   I 

Charles  Emanuel  I.,  Duke  of 
Savoy,  109,  109  71.  4;  family  of, 
no,  no  71.  5,  iro  «.  6;  his  five 
sons,  no,  no  ;?.  6;  meets  Pindar 
on  Mt.  Cenis,  113;  his  heir,  116 
;/.  I 

Charleton,  Mr,  marries  Anne 
Wyche,    164 

Chatal-Burgas.     See  Lule  Burgas 

Chateauneuf-sur-Loire,  Pindar's 
party  pass,   122,  122  7i.  4 

Chatham,    135,   169 

Chatres.     See  Arpajon 

Chazvush.,  a,  overtakes  Pindar's 
train,  xxxiii,  65,  65  71.  3 ;  leaves 
Pindar  at  Pirot,  xxxiv,  66  ;  is  over- 
taken by  Pindar,  xxxiv,  70 

Chelmsford,  Mundy  passes  through, 
143;    spelling   of    the   name,    143 

71.    3 

Chequeen.     See  Sequin 
Chequers,  The,  at  Canterbury,  xlix, 
135;    mentioned  by  Chaucer,    135 

71.    2 

Cherries,  plentiful,  at  Valjevo,  xxxvi, 
78 

Cherso,  I.,  xl,  88,  88  n.  5,  88  «.  6, 
88  n.    7 

Cheylas,  compared  with  Janissaries, 
43  11.  2 

Chickin.     See  Sequin 

China,  Mundy's  voyage  to,  Iviii,  i, 
2,  3  71.  I,  6,  8,  9,   II 

Chios.     See  Scio 

Chirmenli.     See  Hermanli 

ChishuU,  his  Travels  /«  Ttu-key  re- 
ferred to,  31  71.  2,  33  71.  I,  33  71.  1 


252 


INDEX 


Chiswell,  Richard,  his  Travels  {Add. 
MS.  10623)  referred  to,  see  notes 
on  pp.  89,  95,  96,  97,  98,  99 

Chivasso,  Pindar's  party  lodge  at, 
xliv,    109 

Chorlu,  Pindar's  paity  arrive  at, 
xxviii,  XXX,  47,  47  «.  4;  Poullet's 
description  of,  47  «.  4;  other  spell- 
ings of,  47  n.  4;  three  of  Pindar's 
train  rejoin  at,  48  ;  Blount  passes 
through,  156;  site  of  a  battle  be- 
tween Selim  I.  and  Bayazid  II., 
212  ;  tortoises  at,  212  ;  Bargrave's 
description  of  the  country  around, 
215,   216 

Christine,  of  France,  marries  the 
Prince  of  Piedmont,  xlv,  no,  no 
n.  4,    113,   234,   234  n.  4 

Christopher,  The,  at  Beauvais,   131 

Churchman,  John,  builds  the  old 
Custom  House,   59  ;/.   i 

Cider,  made  in  Jersey,   144 

Cilicia,  straits  of,    19  n.  2 

Clarke,  Dr  E.  D.,  his  Travels  re- 
ferred to,  44  n.  4,  46  11.  2,  46  n.  4, 
47  11.  3,  47  n.  4,  48  n.  2  ;  his  route 
from  Constantinople  to  Adrianople, 
45  n.  6 

Clarke  (Clearke),  John,  travels  in 
Pindar's  train,  42,  43 ;  released 
from  quarantine,  xl,  87,  91  «.  4; 
disinfected,  xl,  87  ;  hires  a  house  at 
Venice  for  Pindar,   xl,   xli,  91 

Clissa  (Kllsh),  Castle,  situation  of, 
xxxix,  85,  85  n.  4,  85  w.  5;  history 
of,  85  n.  4;  taken  from  the  Vene- 
tians by  the  Turks,  148 ;  strength 
of,   148,    148  ;?.  I 

Clocks,  in  Turkey,  Mundy's  remarks 
on,  74;  Poullet's  remarks  on,  74 
n.   3 

Coaches,  hired,  from  Orleans  to 
Paris,  xlvii,  123;  hired,  from  Paris 
to  Calais,  xlviii,  130;  convey  Pin- 
dar's party  from  Blackwall  to  Isling- 
ton, xlix,  136 

Coins.  See  s.v.  Asper ;  Crown ; 
Ecu  ;    Lira  ;    Piastre ;    Sol 

Coke,  Thomas,  in  charge  of  the  Earl 
of  Arundel's  sons,  100  w.   i 

Colare.     See  Kolar 

Colchester,  Mundy  sent  to,  by 
Richard  Wyche,   li,   143,   145 

Cole,  Mundy's  journey  from  Agra 
to,    7 

Colossus,  the,  at  Constantinople, 
196 

Columns,  at  Constantinople,  the 
Serpent,  33,  33  n.  i,  185,  195,  195 
n.   4 ;  the  Egyptian,  33,    33  n.   2, 


195  ;  the  Historical,  34,  34  n.  2, 
196;  the  Burnt,  34,  35,  35  «.  2, 
196,    196  «.    3 

Constance,  Thomas,  joins  Pindar's 
train  at  Padua,    10 1 

Constantine  the  Great,  29,  32  n.  i, 
3.^  ''•  2,  34  n.  2,  35  71.  2,  184 ; 
builds  and  enriches  Constantinople, 
189,  192,  193;  sets  up  the  Burnt 
Column,  196  «.  3;  banner  of,   xxi 

71.    3 

Constantine's  Column.  See  Co- 
lumns, the  Burnt 

Constantine's  Palace,  wild  beasts 
at,  37.  190,  196;  descriptions  of, 
37  «•  6 

Constantinople,  Mundy's  voyage 
to,  XV,  xxiii,  liii,  3,  7,  10,  14-21, 
24;  Mundy's  journey  overland  to 
London  from,  xv,  xxvii— xlix,  7,  10, 
41-136  ;  events  at,  during  Mundy's 
time,  xxiv,  xxv,  Iv,  21,  22,  23; 
Mundy's  remarks  on,  xxiv,  xxv, 
xxvi,  25,  30-40;  Sandys'  descrip- 
tion of,  21,  26,  192-198  ;  Grimston's 
description  of,  25,  26,  183-186 ; 
Gainsford's  description  of,  27-30, 
187-192 ;  various  descriptions  of, 
21  7i.  t;  earthquakes,  fires,  and 
plague  at,  xxiv,  xxv,  39,  40,  190, 
192;  ambassadors  at,  xxvi,  Iv,  23, 
36,  41,  64,  65,  175-182,  196,  214; 
route  to  Belgrade  from,  xxxvii,  45 
7z.  6,  46  71.  2,  48  71.  4,  60,  199- 
214,  215;  English  merchants  at, 
22,  44,  164,  176,  177;  compared 
with  London,    188,    191,   192 

Constantinople,  river  of.  See 
Dardanelles 

Co7itii7iiacia,  certificate  of,  granted  to 
Pindar's  party,  88,  90 ;  Far  la^  to 
perform  quarantine,  88  71.  1  ;  Bar- 
grave's  allusion  to,   90  7i.  i 

Copper,  contract  of  Richard  Wyche 
and  others  for,  xvi,  1,  li,  138,  139, 
139  71.6,  161  ;  suit  at  Valladolid 
regarding,    139 

Coprian,  Signor,  travels  in  Pindar's 
train,   42 

Cordeliers,  the,  Des  Hayes  sent 
to     obtain     restitution     for,      199 

71.    2 

Cornwall,    Mundy's   native   county, 

xvi,    lii,   Ivii,   Ixi,   2  7i.  5,  13,   143; 

trade  of,  in  pilchards  and  tin,  xvii ; 

Mundy's    description  of,   lix,    Ixii ; 

compared  with  the  country  round 

Boulogne,  219 
Corpus  Christi,  feast  of,   141 
Corvasco,    106  «.  5 


INDEX 


253 


Coryat,  Thomas,  his  Crudities  re- 
ferred to,  see  notes  on  pp.  90,  91, 
92,  95,  97,  98,  99,  100,  loi,  102, 
103,  104,  106,  107,  108,  109,  III, 
113,  114,  115,  117,  ii8,  119,  121, 
124,  125,  127,  128,  129,  130,  131, 
^S'^i  133!  1^'s  style  compared  with 
Mundy's,   Ivii 

Cosne,  Pindar's  party  pass,  i2t,  \t,\ 
n.  I,  121  n.  4,  122  It.  I ;  Symonds' 
description  of,   227 

Cossacks,  their  depredations,  xxxiii, 
62,  63,  6^  n.  I 

Cotroman,  builds  the  castle  at  Sara- 
jevo, xxxviii,  8r  «.  4 

Coulon,  Le  Sieur,  his  Fidele  Con- 
diicteur  pour  le  Voyage  de  France 
referred  to,  see  notes  on  pp.  121, 
122,  125,  126,  127,  130,  131,  132, 
133  ;  his  Fidele  Condiicteiir  pour 
le  Voyage  d''  Espagne  referred  to, 
145  n.  6  ;  his  Rivieres  de  France 
referred  to,  see  notes  on  pp.  117, 
118,   120,    122,   131,   144 

Courten  (Curteene),  Sir  William, 
Mundy  takes  service  under,  xvi, 
lix,  8 ;  sends  a  fleet  to  India  and 
China,   8 

Court  Minutes  of  the  East  India  Co., 
referred  to,  lii,  145  n.  i,  159  n.  3, 
160  n.  4 

Courtney,  J.  S.,  his  Guide  to  Pen- 
zance referred  to,  Ixii 

Covel,  Dr  John,  his  Diary  referred 
to,  see  Early  Voyages  in  the  Levant; 
his  route  from  Constantinople,  45 
n.  6 

Crema,  in  Venetian  territory,  xliii, 
105,  106  n.   5 

Croatia,  68  n.  4 

Crown,  The,  at  Pisieux,   131 

Crown,  The,  at  Pont  Reray,  xlviii,  131 

Crowns,  coins,  value  of,  130,  228 

Cunny,  John,  a  member  of  Pindar's 
train,    43 

Currants,  produced  at  Zante,  18,  18 
n.  3 ;  the  Levant  Company's  trade 
in,  159,  161 

Curut  Chisme.     See  Qiirut  Chesme 

Custom  House,  the,  in  London, 
situation  of,  59  n.  i  ;  burned  down, 
59  n.  I  ;  rebuilt,  59  n.  i 

Custom  House  Quay,  38,  59,  59 
n.   I 

Cydarius,  river,  44  n.  4,  195 

Czabaoz,  taken  by  Sulaiman  the 
Magnificent,   52  fi.   i 

Dallam,  Thomas,  his  Diary  referred 
to.    See  Early  Voyages  in  the  Levant 


Dalmatia,  81  n.  6;  Pindar's  party 
pass  the  shores  of,  xl,  88  ;  Blount's, 
voyage  to,   146,    147 

Dalmatian  Alps,  84  n.   i 

Dantzic,  Mundy's  journey  to,  6,  9,, 
11;   Mundy's  description  of,    10 

Danube,  river,  71,  71  ;/.  5,  71  n.  6„ 
74,  74  w.  I,  75  ;  abundance  of  fish 
in  the,  xxxv,  73,  200  ;  other  names 
for  the,  149,  149  n.  7;  Blount's  de- 
scription of  the,  149;  tributaries  of 
the,  1 49,  150  n.  I,  201  ;  peculi- 
arity of  the  current  of  the,  xxxv, 
149,  150,  150  n.  I ;  water  mills  on 
the,  72,  73,  149;  clearness  of  the 
water  of  the,  150,  150  n.  2  ;  how 
far  navigable,  20a  ;  Des  Hayes* 
remarks  on  the,   200,   20 1,  202 

Dardanelles,  The  (river  of  Con- 
stantinople), 20  n.  2,  20  n.  3; 
width  of,  197;  castle  on  the  shores 
of,   197  ;  see  also  s.v.  Hellespont 

Dardanelli,  castles,  guard  Constanti- 
nople,   157,    157  n.   2 

Darius,  King  of  Persia,  defeated  at: 
Issus,    19  n.   2 

Davis,  Cary,  travels  in  Pindar's, 
train,  41  ;  leaves  Pindar  at  Kuchuk 
Chekmeje,  46;  with  Pindar's  train 
in  Paris,  46  n.  3 ;  accompanies. 
Mundy  to  the  Louvre,  etc.,  xlvii, 
124 

Davis,  Henry,  Mundy  travels  to- 
Spain  with,  1,  138,  138  n.  3;  de- 
livers letters  to  the  Levant  Com- 
pany,   138  n.   3 

Davis,  Captain  John,  Mundy  serves,, 
as  cabin-boy,  xvii,  xviii,  lo,  13,  14; 
perhaps  the  recusant,  son  of  Wm^ 
Davis,   13  w.  5 

Davis,  Captain  John,  of  Limehouse„ 
a  servant  of  the  East  India  Com- 
pany,   13  «.  5 

Davis,  Captain  John,  of  Sandridge^ 
explorer,   13  w.  5 

Davis,  Rice,  Welshman,  member  of 
Pindar's  train,  43 

Davis,  William,  of  "  Gracious  Street,"' 
father  of  John  Davis,  13  /?.  5 

De  Beauveau,  Henri,  his  Relation 
Journaliere  referred  to,  85  n.  4,  88. 
n.  3 

Deccan,  the,  8 

Decize,  Pindar's  party  lodge  outside, 
xlvi,  120,  228  n.  5  ;  description  of, 
120,  120  n.  6 

Deems,  John,  member  of  Pindar's 
train,   43 

Delhi,  capital  of  Hindustan,  4;  re- 
moval of  the  Court  from,  4  w.  3 


254 


INDEX 


Delia  Valle,  Pietro,  his  Voyages  re- 
ferred to,  see  notes  on  pp.  20,  21, 
23.  3i>  32,  33.  37>  38,  39'  40'  53. 
63>  64,  75 

Delphi,  the  Column  of  Serpents 
brought  from,    195  ?«.   4 

Delrosse,  Jacques,  builds  the  Luxem- 
bourg, 126  n.  3 

Denia,  Marquis  of.  See  Lerma, 
Cardinal  Duke  of 

Denmark,  Mundy's  travels  in,  i  ; 
Des  Hayes'  mission  to,   199  Jt.  2 

Derbend,  pass,   61   n.   1 

Des  Hayes,  Louis,  Baron  de  Cour- 
memin,  holds  office  under  Louis 
XHI.,  199  «.  2;  his  mission  to  the 
East,  199  11.  2  ;  his  route  from  Bel- 
grade to  Constantinople,  xxxi,  45 
Ti.  6,  199  n.  I,  214;  his  escort  from 
Nisch  to  Adrianople,  67  n.  2  ;  his 
remarks  on  the  current  of  the 
Danube,  150  n.  i  ;  returns  to 
France,  199  ?i.  2 ;  sent  on  other 
missions,  199  n.  2 ;  arrest  and 
execution  of,  199  n.  2;  full  title  of 
his  Voiage  de  Levant,  igg;  editions 
of  his  work,  199  n.  3;  extracts 
from  his  Voiage,  see  Appendix  F, 
pp.  199-216;  his  Voiage  referred 
to,  see  notes  on  pp.  43,  46,  47,  49, 
51,  52,  54,  60,  61,  62,  66,  67,  68, 
69,  70,  71,  72,  73.  74,  75 

Diana,  statue  of,  in  the  Louvre,  126, 

127,  127  «.  I 
Dictionnaire  Historique,  Le  Grand, 
referred  to,  no  n.  6,  144  n.  i,  144 
n.  2 
Dictumary  of  National  Biography, 
referred  to,  14  n.  11,  109  n.  7,  126 
n.  2,  146  jz.  4,  163  fi.  4,  178,  179, 
187  n.  I,  192  n.  3,  215  71.  2,  217 
n.    1 

Dieppe,  Mundy  crosses  from  Dover 
to,  1,   116  n.  5,  138,  138  n.  4,   139 

^-  3)   145 

Dilly.     See  Delhi 

Dinaric  Alps,   79  w.    r 

Diocletian,  Spalato  built  within  his 
palace  precincts,  86  n.  3,  147 

Dniester,  river,  Caspar  Gratiani 
perishes  crossing  the,   51   «.    3 

Dogliana.  mountains,  location  of  the, 
83  n.  5;  country  between  Sarajevo 
and  the,  148;  compared  with  the 
Alps,    148,    148  71.  2 

D'Oksza,  Th.,  his  Histoire  de  V Em- 
pire Ottoi7ia7i  referred  to,  64  71.  i 

Doljanca  or  Doljani,  river,  83  //.  5 

Dollar,  value  of  a,   100,   100  71.  4 

Dolphin,  The,  at  Poix,   131 


Dominico,  Signer,  Pindar's  drago- 
man, 42  ;  a  Greek,  42  n.  5  ;  taken 
ill  in  Paris,  xlviii,  42  n.  5,  130  j 
recommended  to  the  Levant  Co. 
by  Pindar,  42  71.  5 ;  appointed 
secretary  to  Sir  John  Eyre,  42  «.  5 ; 
his  services  refused  by  Eyre,  42 
71.  5  ;  writes  a  certificate  for  Pin- 
dar's escort,  69 
Domuz-dere,   a  village,   195 

Dora  Riparia,  river,   233,  233  n.  5 

Dos  Hermanas,  oil-mills  at,  xxii ; 
situation  of,  xxii,  xxii  7i.  2 

Dover,  passage  from  Calais  to,  xlviii, 
xlix,  134,  134  71.  4,  136;  harbour 
and  pier  at,  134,  134  71.  5,  218, 
218  71.  3;  inns  at,  134,  218; 
Mundy  halts  at,  on  the  way  to 
Spain,  1,  138 ;  Symonds'  journey 
from,   to  Turin,    217-235 

Dowlany  Hills,  Pindar's  party 
ascend  the,  83,  84 ;  what  heights 
intended  by,  83  71.  5  ;  steepness  of 
the,  83,  83  71.  6 

Downing,  Captain  Joshua,  com- 
mander of  the  Royall  Merchant, 
xxiii,  14,  167,  168;  account  of,  14 
n.  10,  168-170;  inspector  of  cord- 
age at  Woolwich,  168 ;  inspector 
at  Chatliam  dockyard,  169  ;  com- 
missioner of  the  Fleet  at  Ports- 
mouth, 169  ;  his  "  Notes  on  the 
Navy,"  169;  unpopularity  of,  169; 
overworked,  169 ;  applies  for  his 
discharge,  169  ;  illness  and  death 
of,  169,  170;  his  family,  170;  last 
reference  to,   170 

Downing,  Joshua,  son  of  Captain 
Joshua  Downing,    170 

Downing,  Martha,  daughter  of 
Joshua    Downing,    170 

Dragoman,  a  Christian  village,  206; 
Des  Hayes  misses  the  road  to, 
206 

Dragomans  (interpreters).  See 
Dominico;  Gratiani,  Caspar 

Drake,  Sir  Francis,  his  portrait  in 
Mundy's  MS.,   ri  «.  2 

Drapers'  Company,  the,  the  Garra- 
ways,  freemen  of,    14  7i.  11 

Drave,  river,    75  71.  3 

Dreadiioiight,  the,   169 

Drina,  river,  79  71.  4,  80  71.  r,  80 
71.  3  ;  Pindar's  party  ferried  over 
the,   xxxvii,   80 

Drubbing,  a  punishment  for  offenders 
in  Turkey,  =,7  ;  illustration  of,  55, 
58 

Ducat,    of  Venice,   value   of  a,   92, 

92  71.    t 


INDEX 


255 


Due  Torri,  the,  at  Verona,  loi 
n.   5 

Du  Loir,  Le  Sieur,  his  Voyages 
referred  to,  36  «.  3,  36  n.  4,  37  n.  i, 
38  ?2.  2,  40  «.  I,  52  «.  5,  56  n.  3, 
88  71.  3 

Dumont,  Le  Sieur,  his  New  Voyage 
to  the  Levant  referred  to,  see  notes 
on  pp.  26,  33,  52,  53,  56,  57,  III, 
113,  115  and  117 

Dunkirk,  Bargrave  travels  from  Con- 
stantinople to,  215 

Duny,  river.     See  Danube 

Duomo  of  Milan.     See  Cathedrals 

Dutch,  the,  lose  ships  in  a  storm, 
169 

Du  Verdier,  his  Voyage  de  France 
referred  to,  see  notes  on  pp.  115, 
120,   121,   122,   123,  124,  125,  126, 

i.3o>  131.  132 
Duvno  Polje,  84  n.  5 
Dw^ina,     river,     Mundy's     intended 

journey  up  the,  6 


Eagle,  the,  Sir  John  Eyre's  goods 
laden  on,   181 

Eagle  and  Horn,  the,  at  Malegnano, 
xliii,  106 

Early  Voyages  to  the  Levant  referred 
to,  see  notes  on  pp.  15,  16,  17,  18, 
19,  20,  46,  47,  48,  49,  52,  164 

Earthquakes,  at  Zante,  18  ;z.  3,  19; 
at  Constantinople,  23  n.  3,  29,  39, 
190 

East  India  Company,  the,  Mundy's 
petition  to  the  Directors  of,  lii ; 
Sir  Henry  Garraway,  a  Director  of, 
liii,  14  «.  11;  Clement  and  Job 
Harby,  Directors  of,  liii ;  Sir  Morris 
Abbot,  Governor  of,  15  n.  i ; 
Mundy  entertained  as  factor  by, 
xvi,  1,  lii,  liii,  liv,  8,  144,  144  n.  6, 
145  7z.  I ;  connection  of  Richard 
Wyche,  senior,  with,  159,  161;  con- 
nection of  the  family  of  Richard 
Wyche  with,  162,  164,  165;  com- 
pared with  the  Levant  Company, 
172;  rise  of  the,  172;  records  of, 
referred  to,  see  Court  Mitmtes; 
Factory  Records 

East  Indies,  the,  Mundy's  voyages 
to,  liv,  Ixi,  I,  2,  7,  8,  9,  10,  II 

East  Sea.     See  Baltic  Sea 

Ecus  (French  Crowns),  120,  120  n.  3, 

Edward,  a  footman,  a   member   of 

Pindar's  train,  43 
Edward  the  Black  Prince,  tomb 

of,  in  Canterbury  Cathedral,  135 


Egypt,  Blount's  voyage  to,  146,  156; 
Sandys'  travels  in,  192  «.  3;  Con- 
stantine's   Column    brought   from, 

^93 

Elizabeth,  Queen  of  England,  sends 
emissaries  to  Turkey,  171  ;  inau- 
gurates the  Levant  Company,  171, 
172 

Ellis,  Edward,  emissaiy  to  Murad 
III.,   171 

Emanuell,  a  Greek,  travels  in 
Pindar's  train,   43 

England,  5,  8  ;  Mundy's  travels  in, 
xvi,   I,  9,   10,   II 

Englefield,  Sir  Francis,  his  Travels 
{Rawl.  MS.  D.  197)  referred  to, 
119  n.  5,  125  n.  5,  128  n.  3,  129 
n.  4,   138  n.  4 

English,  the,  expelled  from  Gascony, 

XX 

English  Channel,  xlviii 

English  merchants,  their  life  at 
Constantinople,  xxv,  22 ;  at  Con- 
stantinople, reside  at  Pera,  xxviii, 
22  n.  2,  44 ;  at  Leghorn  and  in  the 
Islands  of  the  Mediterranean,  16, 
17  «.    I 

Ensigns  and  Flags,  Turkish,  65 

Eski  Baba,  Pindar's  party  pass  by, 
xxviii,  48 ;  other  spellings  of  the 
name,  48  w.  4  ;  Des  Hayes  halts  at, 
212;  country  between  Adrianople 
and,  described,  xxx 

Essex,  gates  in,  compared  with  doors 
in  Picardy,  220 

Etampes,  Pindar's  party  dine  at, 
xlvii,   123,   123  n.  6,   124 

Eumenes,  battle  between  Antigonus 
and,  154  7z.  i;  death  of,  154  w.  r 

Europe,  map  of,  in  Mundy's  MS., 
6  71.  I,  i[  7t.  2,  146  71.  I ;  Mundy's 
travels  in,  i,  7,  9,  10,  11  71.  2; 
Bargrave's  travels  in,   215  n.   2 

Europeans,  unpopularity  of,  at 
Sarajevo,  xxxvii,  81 

Eurydice,  lamented  by  Orpheus, 
152,  152  n.  5,  209 

Euxine.     See  Black  Sea 

Evagrius,  his  estimate  of  the  dimen- 
sions of  S.  Sophia,  194 

Evan.     See  Ivan 

Evliya  Efendi,  his  T7-avels  zV? 
Etu-ope   referred    to,  see  notes    on 

PP-  31.  32,  33>  34.  35.  37.  39.  4© 
Expedition,  the,  Mundy  sails  on,  for 

Sural,  xvi,  liv,  Ivii,  7 
Eyre,  Edward,  nephew  of  Sir  John 

Eyre,   182 
Eyre,  Sir  John,  son  of  Sir  William 

Eyre,   179;    recommended  as  am- 


256 


INDEX 


bassador  by  Buckingham,  179;  the 
Levant  Company  compelled  to  ap- 
point as  ambassador,  179,  180; 
Dominico  chosen  as  secretary  for, 
and  refused  by,  42  n.  5  ;  succeeds 
Pindar  at  Constantinople,  xxvi,  23, 
23  7t.  6,  41,  42  n.  5,  179,  180,  181; 
pays  his  respects  to  the  Grand 
Signior,  36;  his  incapacity  and  un- 
popularity, 181;  his  conduct  com- 
plained of,  181;  is  recalled  to 
England,  23  n.  6,  41  n.  3,  181; 
his  defence,  181  ;  his  claims  re- 
ferred to  the  Privy  Council,  182; 
death  of,  182- 
Eyre,  Sir  William,  of  Great  Chauld- 
field,  Peccasod,  father  of  Sir  John 
Eyre,  179 

Factory  Records,   Surat,    referred    to, 

165    71.     I 

Falkland,  Lord,  a  friend  of  George 
Sandys,  192  n.  3 

Falmouth,  Mundy's  voyages  to  and 
from,  xvi,  11,  145;  an  important 
seaport  in  the  17th  century,  xvii, 
xxvi 

Fanfani,  Pietro,  his  Vocabolario  re- 
ferred to,   88  n.  2 

Fardles,  of  indigo,  8  ;  of  saltpetre,  8 

Fasana,  Canale  di,  Pindar's  party 
pass  through  the,  xl,  89,  89  n.  4 

Ferdinand  IL,  Emperor  of  Ger- 
many, ordnance  taken  from,  by 
the  Turks,   75,   150,   150  n.  3 

Feria,  Duke  of,  governor  of  Milan, 
Pindar  exchanges  visits  with,  xliii, 
106;  death  of,  106  11.  5 

Ferronerie,  Rue  de  la,  Henri  IV. 
murdered  in  the,  129,  129  n.  2; 
situation  of,    129  n.    2 

Feu    de    France,     Le,    at    Lyons, 

Filibe.     See  Philippopolis 
Finch,  Sir  John,  49  n.  3 
Finland,  1 1 
Fires,-  at  Constantinople,   xxiv,   29, 

39,  40,  190 
Fish,  abundance  of,  at  Scanderoon, 

20;  at  Belgrade,  xxxv,  73,  73  n.  i 
Fisher,  Thomas,  pi'esents  a  copy  of 

Mundy's  MS.  to  the  India  Office, 

1X1 

Florence,  17;  Duke  of,  17  ;?.  i 
Forde  (Foord),  Mr,  chaplain  at 
Constantinople,  175;  a  successor 
requested  in  place  of,  175 
Fountains,  number  of,  at  Constan- 
tinople, 25,  184;  erected  by  Turks 
for  travellers,  216 


France,  Mundy's  travels  in,  Ixi,  r^ 
116  n.  5,  1 19-134,  138,  139  n.  3, 
139  n.\;  map  of,  in  Mundy's  MS., 
116  n.  5,  121  n.  8;  122  n.  5, 
139  71.  I ;  how  divided  from  Savoy, 
118;  contends  with  Austria  for  the 
Valtellina,  153  it.  i;  Symonds' 
notes  on,   217  ;z.    i 

Francis  I.  of  France,  founds  the 
port  of  Havre,  xviii  «.  4 

Francis  de  Gonzaga,  Duke  of 
Mantua,  marries  Margaret  of  Savoy, 
no  71.  5  ;  death  of,  1 10  «.  5 

Francis  of  Roxas  and  SandwaL 
See  Lerma,   Cardinal,  Duke  of 

Frangoise-Catherine,  of  Savoy,  a 
nun,   no  71.  5 

Franks,  the,  quarrel  of  the  Bosnians- 
with,  xxxvii,  xxxviii,  81 

Freeman,  John,  recommended  as 
Consul  at  Smyrna  to  succeed 
Greene,  44  71.  6 

Freeman,  Ralph,  member  of  the 
Levant  Company,   42  7i.  5 

Freight,  charges  for,  on  the  Royall 
Merchant,   166,   167 

Fremlen,  William,  representative  of 
the  East  India  Company  at  Agra, 
7 ;  sends  Mundy  from  Agra  to 
Surat,  8 

French  crowns.     See  Ecus 

Frenchmen,  six,  accompany  Pindar's 
train,  xxvii,  43  ;  the  six,  travel  in 
carts,  44 ;  the  six,  hire  a  boat  from 
Spalato,  xl,  88 

Fresh  waters,  the,  near  Pera,  xxviiij 
44'  44  n.  4,  47  71.  3,  48  71.  I 

Frith,  a  hurdle,  68,  68  n.  2 

Fumahone,  at  mouth  of  Canton  R., 
9 

Gabella.     See  Aiguebelle 
Gabelletta.     See  Aiguebelette 
Gabinian  way,  the,  a  pass  over  the 

Prologh  Mts.,  84  71.  I 
Gainsford,  Thomas,  Mundy  quotes 
from  his  Glory  of  E7iglaitd,  Ivi, 
27-30;  Mundy's  style  compared 
with  that  of,  Ivii;  his  Glory  of 
E7igla7id  referred  to,  see  notes  on 
pp.  3,  18,  20,  27,  39,  43,  50,  51,  62, 
63,  65,  67,  99,  104,  112,  113,  115, 
116,  121;  his  description  of  Con- 
stantinople, 27-30,  187-192;  full 
title  of  the  work  of,  187  n.  i; 
epitome  of  the  life  of,  187  7i.  i 
Galata,  a  suburb  of  Constantinople, 

xxvii,   25,   29,   31   71.    I,   38,   38   7t.    I, 

44   71.   4,    57,    185,    215;    English 
merchants    from,     escort     Pindar, 


INDEX 


257 


xxvii,  44,  46,  47,  172;  description 
of,  190,  196,  197;  inhabitants  of, 
190 

Galland,  Antoine,  his  Journal  re- 
ferred to,  64  n.    I 

Galleass,  Galliass,  Galliegross,  at 
Pola,  xli,  89;  description  of  a,  89, 
89  M.  5,  89  n.  6 ;  built  at  the 
arsenal  at  Venice,  95  n.  i ;  of  State, 
see  Hucentaur 

Galleons,  Spanish,  off  Cape  St 
Vincent,   16 

Galleys,  built  at  the  arsenal  at 
Venice,  93,  95  n.  i  ;  sails  of,  made 
by  women,  94,  94  //.  i ;  Venetian, 
ply  between   Spalato   and   Venice, 

147 

Gallipoli,  157 

Ganges,  river,  Mundy's  journey  to 
the,   10 

Garda,  lake,  ships  on,  xlii,  104; 
extent  of,    104,   104  n.   i 

Garraway,  Anthony,  merchant  in 
Constantinople,    14  /«,    11 

Garraway,  Arthur,  a  prisoner  in 
Constantinople,    14  ;/.   11 

Garraway  family,  the,  account  of, 
14  ;/.   1 1 

Garraway,  Sir  Henry,  son  of  Sir 
Wm.  Garraway,  a  director  of  the 
East  India  Company,  liii;  freeman 
of  the  Drapers'  Company,  14  w.  11  ; 
Lord  Mayor  of  London,  14  «.  11; 
director  of  the  Levant  Company, 
14  11.    II,   42  n.  5 

Garraway,  James,  passenger  on  the 
Royall  Merchant,  xxiii,  14;  pro- 
bable parentage  of,   14  n.   1 1 

Garraway,  Thomas,  son  of  Sir 
William  Garraway,  14  n.  11; 
original  proprietor  of  Garraway's 
coffeehouse,  xxiii,  14  n.  11;  the 
first  retailer  of  tea,    14  w.    11 

Garraway  (or  Garway),  Sir  William, 
head  of  the  family,  14  n.  11 

Garraway,  William,  son  of  Sir 
William  Garraway,  14  n.  11;  a 
director  of  the  East  India  Com- 
pany, liii,  liv;  Mundy's  connection 
with,  liii,  liv ;  dies  in  Persia,  liv 

Garraway's  Coffee-house,  14  n.  11 

Garway  family,  the.  See  Garraway 
family,  the 

Gascony,  Mundy's  first  visit  to,  xx, 
13,  24;  lost  by  the  English,  xx, 
Iv;   Mundy's  second  visit  to,  138 

Gaston-Jean-Baptiste  de  France, 
Duke  of  Orleans,  124,  124  «.  7 

Gaul,  map  of,  in  Mundy's  MS., 
6  n.   I 


Gaunches  or  Ganches,  description 

of,  55,  55  "•  5,  56 

Gaunching,  a  punishment  for  male- 
factors in  Turkey,  Iviii,  55;  de- 
scription of,  Iviii,  56;  illustration 
of,    -:.^,    58 

Gemoniae,  the  Zindana  at  Belgrade 
compared  with  the,  151,  151  n.  i 

Genoa,  Symonds' journey  to,  2i7«.  i ; 
Symonds'  expenses  from  Turin  to, 

235 

Gentleman'' s  Guide,  The,  m  his  Tour 
through  France  referred  to,  114 
n.   1,   115  n.  6,  117  n.  1,  124^  n.  1 

George  d'Amboise,  name  of  the 
great  bell  at  Rouen,  xix ;  descrip- 
tion of,  xix;  inscription  on,  xix; 
when  melted  down,  xix  ;/.   3 

Gergeau,  Gerseau.     ^i?^  Jargeau 

German  Empire,  extent  of  the  old, 
148  n.  5 

Gibraltar,  Mundy  touches  at,  15 

Giedicula.     See  Yedi  Kiile 

Gien,  Pindar's  party  lodge  at,  xlvii, 
122;  description  of,  122  n.  i,  227, 
227  n.  3;  a  Protestant  town,  122, 
122  n.  I ;  retaken  by  the  Catholics, 
122  n.  I 

Giralda,  the,  at  Seville,  Mundy's 
description  of,  xxi,  97 

Giraldillo,  the,  on  the  Giralda,  de- 
scription of  the,  xxi,  xxi  n.  3 

Gladiators,  combats  of,  in  amphi- 
theatres,  102 

Glanville,  John,  his  Voyage  to  Cadiz 
referred  to,  14  «.  i 

Glascock,  Henry,  factor,  8 

Glasney  College,  Cornwall,  Mundy's 
grandlather  "chantor"  of,  xiii,  xiv 

Glover,  Sir  Thomas,  his  account  of 
Barton's  journey,  47  n.  3 ;  ambas- 
sador at  Constantinople,  50  n.  2, 
171,  175;  nominated  for  re-appoint- 
ment as  ambassador  to  Constanti- 
nople,  180,    180  n.   2 

Goa,  Mundy's  voyage  to,  9 

Goitre,  sufferers  from,  at  Brescia, 
xliii,  104;  cause  of,  104,  231,  232; 
prevalence  of,  in  the  Alps,  xlv,  Iv, 
117,  117  71,  5;  Symonds'  remarks 
on,  231,  232 

Golden  Apple,  the,  at  Chambery, 
xlv,  117 

Golden  Gate,  the,  at  Constantinople, 
32  n.  2,  193  n.  2 

Golden  Head,  the,  at  Calais,  133 

Golden  Horn,  the,  at  Boulogne, 
132  n.   7,   219 

Golden  Lion,  the,  at  Chivasso, 
xliv,   109 

17 


258 


INDEX 


Golden  Star,  the,  at  Padua,  xlii,  99, 

99  '>^-  3 
Gondolas,    xlii,    96   n.    i,    97,    98, 

98  n.   I 

Granada,  Mts.  of,  xxi 

Grande  Chartreuse,  La,  230 

Grand  Malligan.     See  Malaga 

Grand  Signior,  the,  10,  21,  25; 
permits  Pindar  to  return  to  Eng- 
land, 23;  his  reception  of  ambas- 
sadors, xxvi,  36,  36  n.  4,  37,  214; 
his  orders  for  Pindar's  safe  conduct, 
xxxiii,  67 ;  his  presents  to  ambas- 
sadors, 36  11.  3 ;  ambassadors  to, 
46  n.  2,  65,  65  n.  I  ;  his  seraglio 
at  Adrianople,  49,  49  n.  4,  156; 
gift  from  Shah  'Abbas  to,  65, 
65  n.  I  ;  his  treasure  in  Belgrade 
castle,  151;  his  stable  for  camels 
at  Philippopolis,  155;  his  galleys 
at  Constantinople,   196 

Gratiani,  Caspar,  rise  and  downfall 
of,  Iv;  dragoman  to  Glover  and 
Pindar,  xxxi,  50,  50  n.  2,  51  ; 
obtains  Sir  Thomas  Shirley's  re- 
lease, 50  n.  2 ;  envoy  to  the 
Emperor  Matthias,  50  ii.  2  ;  Voi- 
vode  of  Moldavia,  xxxi,  50  n.  2, 
5 1 ;  his  brother  and  sister  become 
Muhammadans,  50  n.  2 ;  Lithgow 
meets  with,  50  n.  2  ;  made  Duke  of 
Naxia,  5 1 ;  intrigues  with  Sigismund 
of  Poland,  51  w.  3;  is  deposed,  51 
n.  3 ;  perishes  at  the  battle  of  Jassy, 
51  w.  3  ;  another  version  of  his  end, 
51  n.  3 

Gravelines,  133,  133  n.  2 

Gravesend,  Pindar's  party  lodge  at, 
xlix,  135;  waggon  hii-ed  from  Dover 
to,  xlix,  135  boats  hired  from,  to 
Blackwall,  136;  Mundy  halts  at, 
on  the  way  to  Spain,  138 ;  Symonds 
travels  from  London  to,  by  barge, 
218;  coach  service  to  Canterbury 
from,   21S 

Grayhound,  the,  at  Boulogne,  xlviii, 
132,  219  n.  2;  at  Dover,  xlix,  134, 
134  ;z.  6,  218,  218  n.  2 

Great  Sapphire,  the,  report  of  her 
condition,   169 

Greece.     See  Rumelia 

Greeks,  at  Constantinople,  198  ;  their 
churches,  25,  185;  in  Turkey,  pay 
a  poll-tax,  26,  26  n.  i,  186;  in 
Belgrade,    74  n.   i 

Greene,  Lawrence,  junior,  Mundy 
remains  with,  at  Constantinople, 
XXV,  xxvi,  xlix,  23,  23  11.  4;  pi'O- 
bable  parentage  of,  23  n.  4;  his 
property    in    Virginia,     23    11.    4 ; 


escorts  Pindar  from  Constantinople, 
44,  47,  47  n.  r ;  succeeds  Salter  as 
Consul  at  Smyrna,  xxv,  44  n.  6; 
dispute  about  the  salary  of,  44  «.  6 ; 
case  of,  supported  by  the  King, 
44  n.  6;  petition  of,  detailing  his 
services,  44  n.  6 

Greene,  Lawrence,  senior,  director 
of  the  Levant  Company,  23  n.  4; 
agent  for  chaplains  of  the  Levant 
Company,  23  n.  4;  member  of  a 
committee  of  the  East  India  Co., 
23  11.  4;    death  of,   23  n.  4 

Greenland,  trading  company  to, 
172 

Grenoble,  230,  230  n.  3,  231 

Gretia.     See  Rumelia 

Grimston,  Edward,  his  translation 
of  Michel  Baudier's  History  of  the 
Imperiall  Estate  of  the  Grand 
Seigneurs  referred  to,  22  n.  i,  25, 
25  n.  I,  30  n.  2,  32  n.  3,  62  n.  2, 
63  71.  3 ;  Mundy's  quotations  from 
his  work,  Ivi,  25-27 ;  his  descrip- 
tion of  Constantinople,  183-186; 
dedication  of  his  work,  183  n.  2; 
full  title  of  his  work,  25  n.  i, 
183   7Z.    2 

Grimston,  Sir  Harbottel,  nephew  of 
Edward  Grimston,  183  n.  2 

Grisons,  the,  153  n.  i 

Grotzka,  Pindar's  party  halt  near, 
xxix,  xxxv,  71  ;  palangha  and 
khans  at,  xxxv,  71  ;  a  man  staked 
at,  71,  72  ;  other  names  for,  71  n.  5, 
201,  201  w.  4;  Des  Hayes  halts  at, 
201  ;  situation  of,  201 

Guadalquiver,  river,  xvii,  xxi  n.  i, 
14  n.  I 

Guadiana,  river,  xviii,  xxii,  xxii  n.  3, 
14  n.  4 

Guier,  river,  boundary  between 
France  and   Savoy,    118,    118  «.  4 

Guilliams  (or  Gwilliams),  Abell, 
merchant,  escorts  Pindar  from 
Constantinople,  45,  47,  47  n.  i ; 
apprenticed  to  John  Williams, 
xxvii  n.  3;  made  free  of  the 
Levant  Company,   xxvii  11.   3 

Guipuzcoa,  province  of,  138 

Gujarat,  7 

Guzman,  Alonso  Perez  de,  Duke  of 
Medina  Sidonia,  retires  to  and  dies 
at  Sanlucar,  xx,  xx  n.  6  ;  commands 
the  Spanish  Armada,  xx,  xx  n.  6 

Hadrian,  Emperor,  rejDairs  Adrian- 
ople,   155,  211 

Hafsa,  or  Khafsa,  Pindar's  party 
halt  at,  xxviii,  xxxi,  49;  bridge  at, 


INDEX 


259 


xxxi,    49 ;    other    spellings  of  the 

name,    48    n.    4,    49    n.    i;    Des 

Hayes'  description  of,   212;   kkdn 

and  mosque  at,   212 
Halles,  Rue  des,  in  Paris,  129  n.  1 
Hamburg,   Mundy's  voyage  to,  11  ; 

trading  company  of,    172 
Hammer,  J.    (von),   his  Histoire  de 

r Empire   Ottoman  referred  to,   50 

n.  2,   51   71.  3,  64  71.    I 
Hanging,  how  performed  in  Turkey, 

56 

Hans.     See  KIid7is 

Hapsburg,  Spanish  line  of,  rulers  of 
Milan,   105  71.  8 

Harby,  Clement,  cousin  of  Richard 
Wyche,  senior,   liii,    160,   163 

Harby,  Sir  Erasmus,  son  of  Job 
Harby,    164 

Harby,  Sir  Job,  Mundy's  connection 
with,  liii ;  brother-in-law  of  Richard 
Wyche,  liii,  138  «.  i  ;  son-in-law  of 
Richard  Wyche,  senior,  liii,  160  ; 
executor  to  the  will  of  Richard 
Wyche,  liii,  161  ;  marries  Elizabeth 
Wyche,  163;  knighted,  164;  made 
a  baronet,  164  ;  bequest  to,  164 

Harby,  Lady.    .S't'i?  Wyche,  Elizabeth 

Harebone,  William,  emissary  to 
Murad  III.,    171 

Harl.  MS.  288  {Dt7'ectio7is  to 
Travelle7-s),  referred  to,  100  n.  2, 
loi  n.  2,  lor  7t.  6,  104  n.  i,  104  7i.  3 

Harl.  MS.  943  {Note-book  of  Richard 
Symo7ids),  contents  of,  217  7t.  i, 
234  71.  5;  duplicate  copy  of,  218 
11.   5;    quoted,    218-224,    227-235 

Ha7-l.  MS.  1278  (Note-book  of  H. 
Symonds),  quoted,   224-226 

Harl.  MS.  2286,  history  and  descrip- 
tion of,  Iviii,  Ix,  Ixi ;  discrepancies 
between  Rawl.  MS.  A.  315  and, 
see  notes  on  pp.  i,  2,  7,  8,  13,  14, 
15,  16,  20,  23,  41,  55,  56,  57,  59, 
64,  83,  84,  95,  lor,  106,  117,  119, 
123,  125,  132,  136,  137,  138,  139, 
141,  142,  143,  144,  145 

Harl.  MS.  6243,  referred  to,  xiv  71.  i 

Ha7-l.  MS.  6796  ( Voyage  de  Fi-a7ice  a 
Cot2sta7ititiople),  referred  to,  150  n.  i 

Harleia7i  Miscella7ty,  the,  vol.  v., 
referred  to,   94  71.    i,  99  w.  3,  106 

71.    4 

Harlots,  punishment  of,  in  Turkey, 

57 

Harvey,  Roger,  Henry  Hunt  appren- 
ticed to,  xxvii  71.  3 

Hassan  Pasha's  Palanka,  Pindar's 
party  lodge  in  a  khd7i  at,  xxix, 
xxxiv,  71 ;  other  names  for,  71  ;?.  2  ; 


distance  of,  from  Kolar,  202  ;  Des 

Hayes  lodges  in  a  khdTt  at,  202  ; 

Turks  and  Christians  at,  202 
Havre  de  Grace,  called  Newhaven 

by  Mundy,  xviii,  xviii  «.   4 
Hebrus,  river.     See  Maritza 
Hellespont  (river  of  Constantinople), 

the,  20,  20  «.  2, 31,  156, 157,  157  71.  2 
Henri  IH.   of  France,    begins  the 

Pont  Neuf,   125  71.  5 
Henri  IV,   of  France,  statue  of,  on 

Pont   Neuf,  xlvii,    125,    125  «.   5, 

227 ;    portrait   of,   in   the   Louvre, 

127,  225  ;  murder  of,  Iv,   129,   129 

71.  2 
Henry  IV.  of  England,  tomb  of,  at 

Canterbury,  135 
Heraclea,   ruins  of,   156 
Herbert,  Edward,  Lord  of  Cherbury, 

English  ambassador  in   Paris,    126 

71.    2 

Hermanli,    Pindar's   party  halt   at, 

xxviii,  xxxi,  51   7i.  4,  52;  khdn  zX, 

52  n.  4,  53 

Hero  and  Leander,  referred  to,  157 

Herzegovina,  xxxvi,  78  ti.  i,  79  «.  i 

Heylyn,  Peter,  his  Full  Relation  of 

two  you7-7ieys  referred  to,  125  ti.  i, 

125  «.  5,  130  «.  I,  130^.5,  131  «.  9, 

132    71.    8 

Hindustan,  4,  7 

Hippodrome,  the,  at  Constantinople. 

See  At-maidan,  the 
Hissarlik,   on  the  site  of  Troy,  157 

«.   3 
Histoi7'e  de  Fra7ice,   Ab7-ege    Chrono- 

logique,  referred  to,    12%  n.   4 
Historical  Pillar,  the,  34,  34  7i.  2, 

35>     .S5    «•    I.     196;     set    up    by 

Arcadius,    196  w.   2 
Hobhouse,     J.     C.,     his     your7iey 

tlvoiigh   Alba7iia    referred    to,    20 

n.   4,  31  n.  2,  32  n.  i,  32  n.  3,  35 

n.  3,  38  n.  2,  48  n.  3,  52  n.  5,  53 

71.    I,    136  71.    8,    174  71.   I 

Hobso7i-Jobson  (Yule  and  Burnell, 
Glossary),   referred  to,   26  n.   2 

Hoemus,  Mts.     See  Balkan  Mts. 

Holland,  Mundy's  travels  in,  xvi, 
Iviii,   T,  9,    II 

Holyoke,  Francis,  his  Dictionary 
referred  to,  Ivi,    155  «.   7 

Hondius,  maps  by,  in  the  Raivlinso7t 

MS.,  Ix,    I    71.    1,    II    71.    2,  84    71.    4, 

109  «.  6,  113  «.  I,  115  «■  2,  115  «.  6, 
1 16  n.  5,  118  71.  2,  121  71.  8,  122  71.  5 
Horses,  hired  at  Belgrade  for 
Pindar's  party,  xxxvi,  75;  cost  of 
hiring,  xxxvii,  xliv,  75  71.  4,  81,  82, 
119,  119  n.  6;  discharged  at  Sara- 

17 2 


26o 


INDEX 


jevo,  8i;  hired  from  Sarajevo  to 
Spalato,  xxxvii,  82 ;  hired  from 
Lyons   to   Roanne,   xlvi 

Horse-tails,  Standard  of  the  Seven, 
stories  of  the  origin  of,  64  ii.  i 

Howard,  Henry  Fredericlc,  son  of 
the  Earl  of  Arundtl,  studies  at 
Padua,    100  71.   I 

Howard,  Thomas.  See  Arundel, 
Earl   of 

Huguenots,  strongholds  of  the,  on 
the  Loire,   121,    121   n.  3,   228 

Humes,  Thomas,  a  Scot,  member  of 
Pindar's  train,  xlii,  43,  loi  n.  i  ; 
left  behind  at  Padua,  xlii,    loi 

Hungarians,  the,  Lithgow-'s  descrip- 
tion of,  68  n.  4;  in  Belgrade,  74 
It.  i;  Belgrade  taken  from,  149, 
149  n.  4;  defeated  at  Mohacz,  149 
n.  4 

Hungary,  72  n.  i  ;  war  between 
Turkey  and,  52,  52  n.  r,  201  ; 
Mundy's  incorrect  idea  of,  68,  68 
n.  4;  extent  of,  in  the  17th  century, 
68  It.  4,  200;  Blount's  travels  in, 
146  ;  Valjevo  on  the  borders  of,  149 

Hunt,  Henry,  apprenticed  to  Roger 
Harvey,  xxvii  n.  3  ;  made  free  of 
the  Levant  Company,  xxvii  «.  3  ; 
escorts  Pindar  from  Constantinople, 

44 
Husband,  a,  steward,  paymaster,  42 
n.  5 


Ibrahim  Pasha,  builds  a  khdit  at 
Tatar  Bazarjik,   209 

Ikhtiman,  Pindar's  party  arrive  at, 
xxix,  xxxii,  61;  situation  of,  61, 
62;  other  spellings  of  the  name,  61 
n.  8 ;  description  of  the  country 
between  Sophia  and,  208;  inhabit- 
ants of,  208 

Illustrations,  in  Rawl.  MS.  A.  315, 
Ix,  4,  II  71.  2,  58,  59 

Illyria,   148  71.  5 

I/idex,  the  author's,   referred  to,    11, 

14  71.  2,  15  71.  4,  15  71.   5,  15  71.  6, 

15  71.   7,    16  71.    4 

India,  Mundy's  voyages  to,  xvi,  liv, 
Ivii,  lix,  I,  2,  7,  8,  9,  10,  11; 
Mundy  petitions  for  employment 
in,  Hi,  liii;  a  large  portion  of 
Mundy's  MS.  dealing  with,  Ix; 
extent  of,  4,  5;  inhabitants  of,  4; 
productions  of,  4;  derivation  of  the 
name,  4,  4  «.  4;  description  of,  8; 
alluded  to,    19  7t.  2,    165 

Indian  Ocean,  trading  places  in  the, 
5  w.  I 


India  Office,  the,  a  copy  of  Mundy's 
first  and  second  Voyages  to  India 
at,  Ixi 

Indigo,   8,   10 

Indus,  river,  name  India  derived 
from,    4;    derivation   of  name   of, 

4    71.    4 

Inns,  in  Turkey.     See  Khd7is 
Interpreters        (dragomans).        See 

Dominico  ;  Gratiani,   Caspar 
Iron    Cross,    the,   inn,   in    Rue    St 

Martin,  xlvii,    124 
Irun,  Mundy  goes  to,  1,  138,  138  71.  5, 

139'  139  «•  3 
Irvine,    William,    his   Ari/iy  of  the 

I/idian  Moi^htils  referred  to,  64  7t.  i 
Isabella    of    Savoy,     marries     the 

Duke  of  Modena,   no  7i.  5 
Isere,    river,    115    71.    3,    230   n.    3; 

Symonds  mistakes  the  Arc  for  the, 

231,    231    71.    2 

Iskanderiin.     See  Scanderoon 
Isker,   Isca,   river,  xxxiii,  63  7i.    2, 

208 
Islington,   Pindar's   house   at,  xlix, 

136 

ISSUS,     19    71.    2 

Ister,   river.     See  Danube 

Istria,    147,    147    71.    i;   capitano   of, 

xli  n.   I,  89 
Istria,     Cape     of.      See     Punta     di 

Promontore 
Italians,     at     Constantinople,    their 

churches,  25 
Italy,  Mundy's  travels  in,  i.  214  «.  4; 

map  of,  in  his  MS. ,  6  «.  i ;  lazarettos 

at  the  seaports  of,   87 ;    Symonds' 

notes  on,   217  71.   i 
Ivan   or  Jura  Ivan,   Pindar's  party 

reach,  xxxviii,  82;  distance  of,  from 

Sarajevo,  82  ;z.  6 
Ivan    Planina,    xxxviii,    82    71.    6; 

other  spellings  of,  82  71.  6 


Jablanitza,  river,  Pindar's  party 
follow  the,  xxxvi,   79  «.   2 

Jackson,  John,  uncle  of  Peter  Mundy, 
xiii,  xvii,  Ivi;  rector  of  North 
Petherwin,  xiii 

Jadar,  river,  xxxvii,  80  71.  3,  80  7t.  5 

Jagodina.     See  Yagodin 

James  I.,  King,  supports  Lawrence 
Greene's  claim,  44  71.  6;  renews 
the  charter  of  the  Levant  Company, 
171 ;  Peter  Wyche  sent  to  Spain  to 
announce  the  death  of,  163 

James,  Richard,  a  member  of  a 
Committee  of  the  East  India  Co., 

23  71.  4 


INDEX 


261 


Janissaries,  the,  effect  revolutions, 
2  r  «.  4,  2  1  11.  6,  22  n.  I,  29,  43 ;;.  2, 
51  ;/.  I,  190;  a  guard  for  Pindar, 
xxvii,  xxxiii,  xxxiv,  43,  65,  66,  70; 
by  whom  established,  43  n.  2  ;  a 
guard  to  the  Persian  ambassador, 
65  ;  their  attire,  65,  67  n.  1  ;  protect 
the  roads  around  Nissa,  68  n.  3, 
204  ;  the  Seraglio  at  Constantinople 
guarded  by,  188;  act  as  permanent 
guards  to  various  embassies,  188 
n.  4;  serve  as  a  guard  for  the  Vice- 
roy of  Rumelia,  211 

Janizar,  cape,   157 

Japan,   Mundy's  voyage  to,   xvi,   9 

Jaral.     See  Xaral 

Jargeau,  Pindar's  party  pass,  122; 
other  spellings  of  the  name,  122 
n.  2,   122  11.    5 

Jassy,  defeat  of  Caspar  Gratiani  at, 
51   n.  3 

Java.   5 

Jebbatore.     See  Gibraltar 

Jemberli  Tash.  6"«<?  Burnt  Column, 
the 

Jersey,  Mundy's  visit  to,  xvi,  lii, 
144,  145;  Mundy's  description  of, 
144 ;  cider  produced  at,  144 ; 
language    of    the    inhabitants    of, 

14+ 

Jerusalem,  Pes  Hayes  directed  to 
establish  a  French  consul  at,  199 
n.    2 

Jews,  at  Constantinople,  their 
Synagogues,  28,  185;  compelled  to 
~act  as  hangmen,  56  n.  3 ;  at 
Belgrade,  73,  74  n.  \  ;  at  Venice, 
furniture  hired  of,  xli,  92;  position 
of,  at  Venice,  92  n.  2  ;  \\ovf  treated 
by  the  Turks,  152;  taxes  paid  by 
the,  at  Constantinople,  186,  198; 
farm  the  customs  at  Constantinople, 
190 

Jezar  Mustafa  Pasha.  6't'^  Mustafa 
Pasha  Kuprusu 

Joan  of  Arc,  her  statue  at  Orleans, 
xlvii,  122,  122  n.  7;  her  exploits, 
Iv,    123 

Job's  Tomb,  the  burial  place  of  the 
Sultan's  children,  189,   190 

Johnson,  J.  W. ,  his  Traveller'' s 
Guide  referred  to,  106  n,  7,  115 
n.   6,    r  16  n.    3,   118  n.  7 

youah,  the,  sails  for  Surat,   7 

JonruaU  of  a  Voyage  thro'  France 
and  Italy.     See  Sloane  A/S.  2142 

Juan  II.  of  Spain,  establishes  the 
Court  of  Chancery  at  Valladolid, 
139  n.  5;  makes  his  residence  at 
Valladolid,   140  n.   i 


Kaik,  a  small  skiff,   28  n.  3 

Ka'iliunakdm,  deputy-governor,  75 
n.   6,  201 

Kaniza,  taken  by  the  Turks,  xxxv, 
75>  75  ''•  3 ;  description  of  ord- 
nance taken  at,  75  n.  3 

Kdpi,  gate,   61   n.   2,   152  n.   6 

Kapi  dgha,  chief  door-keeper,  36  n.  4, 
64  n.  I,  211;  gates  of  the  Seraglio 
guarded  by  the,  188 

Kapiji-bdshi,  chamberlain,  36  n.  4, 
64  n.    I 

Kaprulov  Derbend,  pass.  See 
Kapulu  Derbend 

Kapuli  or  Kapujik,  Pindar's  party 
pass  through,  xxix,  61;  Alexander's 
arch  at,  fii  ;  various  spellings  of  the 
name,  6r  n.  5,  152  n.  5;  Thermo- 
pylae supposed  to  be  at,  152  n.  6; 
on  the  borders  of  Bulgaria,  209;  a 
pass  through  the  Balkans  at,  209 

Kapulu  Derbend,  pass  (Kaprulov 
Derbend),  Pindar's  party  traverse, 
xxxii,  61,  61    n.   2 

Karabali,  ihe  residence  of  ambassa- 
dors to  Constantinople,  191  n.  2 

Karistran,  Pindar's  party  pass,  xxviii, 

48  ;  distance  of,  from  Chorlu,  48  n.  1 
Kasim  Beg.     See  Burim  Kasim 
Kasim    Pasha,    a    suburb    of  Con- 
stantinople, 30,  31  ;  Evliya  Efendi's 
account  of,  3 1  n.  i 

Kazi,  Kddi,  the,  at  Belgrade,  visits  of 
Pindar  and  1  'es  Hayes  to,  xxxvi, 
72,  72  n.  3;  at  Valjevo,  sends  a 
guard  to   Pindar,  xxxvi,   78 

Keeleesh.     See  Clissa 

Kelly,  Dr  P.,  his  Universal  Ca?nbist 
referred  to,  92  ;?.  i,  98  71.  4,  100  n.  4 

Kentish,  Mr,  bearer  of  letters  from 
Pindar  to  the  Levant  Co.,  177 

Keppel,  Major  George,  his  Journey 
across  the  Balcaji  referred  to,  67 
n.  3,   71   n.  7 

Kerkoporta  (Circus-gate),  the,  at 
Constantinople,  situation  of,  32  n.  2, 
193  n.  2;  when  and  why  destroyed, 
193  n.  2 

Kest,  George,  marries  Joan  Mundy, 
xiv 

Ketch.     See  Catch 

Khafsa  or  Hafsa,  Pindar's  party  halt 
at,  xxviii,  xxxi,  49;  bridge  at.  xxxi, 
49 ;    other   spellings   of,    48    n.   4, 

49  n.    I ;    Des   Hayes'    description 
of,   2  r  2 

Khalll  Pasha,  signs  a  treaty  between 
Turkey  and  Persia,  65  n.  i 

Khans  (caravanserais),  in  Turkey, 
allusions    to,    xxxi,    xxxiv,    xxxv, 


262 


INDEX 


xxxvii,  xxxix,  49  ft.  4,  52  n.  4,  70, 
71,  8b,  80  n.  5,  85,  85  n.  2,  152, 
156;  at  Kiichuk  Chekmeje,  Mundy 
and  Des  Hayes  lodge  in,  xxviii,  46, 
213;  descriptions  of,  Iv,  52,  52  «.  5, 
53.  54.  73.  73  n.  4,  202,  203,  213, 
214,  216;  excellence  of,  between 
Adrianople  and  Constantinople,  48 
n.  4,  202,  211  ;  built  by  rich 
bashds,  186,   211,   212,   216 

Khardj,   tribute,   26  n.   r,    186 

Kialik,  Pindar  lodges  at,  xxviii,  xxxi, 
54 ;  Mundy's  description  of,  54 ; 
other  spellings  of  the  name,  54  n.  2  ; 
inhabitants  of;  210 

King,  Mr,  the  Levant  Company's 
chaplain  at  Constantinople,  23  n.  4 

Kiosks,  at  Constantinople,  28,  28 
n.   I,    188,    189 

Knolles,  Richard,  his  Histo7-ie  of  the 
Turkes  referred  to,  Ivi,  43  n.  i,  50 
n.  2,  51  11.  3,  65  n.  3,  67  n.  i,  75 
n.  3,  75  n.  6 

Kolar  or  KuUar,  Pindar's  party  dine 
at,  xxix,  xxxiv,  xxxv,  71;  palangha 
at,  xxxv,  71,  71  n.  4;  other  spell- 
ings of  the  name,  71  n.  4;  Des 
Hayes  halts  at,  202  ;  inhabitants  of, 
202 

Kolubara,  river,  xxxvi,  78,  78  n.  4, 

79  «•  4 

Konjica  or  Konitza,  Pindar's  party 
reach,  xxxviii,  83,  83  n.  3;  distance 
of,  from  Sarajevo,  83  n.  i  ;  other 
spellings  of  the  name,  83  n.    i 

Koum  Kale,   157  n.  3 

Kuchuk  Chekmeje,  Pindar  halts  at, 
xxviii,  XXX,  45  ;  khan  at,  xxviii,  46, 
213,  214;  other  names  for,  46 «.  2; 
bridge  at,  xxx,  46,  46  71.  2,  215  ; 
halting  place  for  ambassadors,  46 
n.  2,  47  n.  3,  213;  Sulaiman  re- 
builds the  bridge  at,  195;  fish  at, 
213;  Des  Hayes'  description  of, 
213,  214 

Kumburgas,  Pindar's  party  pass, 
xxviii,  47  ;  situation  and  descrijnion 
of,  47  n.  1,  47  n.  3  ;  other  spellings 
of  the  name,  47  n.  2 

La  Bussiere,  Symonds'  description 

of,  227 
La  Chambre,  situation  of,  116  n.  3  ; 

Symonds  dines  at,  23  r ;  fortifications 

of,  231 
La  Charite,  Pindar's  party  halt  at, 

xlvi,    xlvii,    121;    bridge    at,    121, 

121  n.  I,  111  n.  2,  228;  description 

of,  121  n.  2,  228  J  country  around 

described,  228 


La  Crosse,  inn  at  Dieppe,  138  n.  4 
La  Liberte,  a  messenger  employed 

by  Symonds,   223 
Lambert.     See  Lanslebourg 
Lane,  John,,  son  of  Richard  Lane, 

42    7Z.    2 

Lane,  Richard,  travels  in  Pindar's 
train,  42  ;  owner  of  the  Samaritan, 
42  n.  2 ;  repudiates  his  son's  debts, 
42  n.  2;  hires  a  boat  for  Pindar's 
party,  xl,  xlix,  88 ;  hires  a  waggon 
for  Pindar's  baggage,  135 

Lnnsdowjte  MS.  720  (  Voyage  cT Italie), 
referred  to,  see  notes  on  pp.  in, 
112,  113,  114,  115,  116,  117,  118, 
121,  122 

Lanslebourg,  at  the  foot  of  Mt. 
Cenis,  xlv,  112  n.  2,  114,  232; 
Pindar's  party  halt  at,  xlv,  114; 
other  spellings  of  the  name,  114 
;/.   2 

La  Palisse,  228  n.  5 

Lapland,  11 

Laughlyne,  Christopher,  recom- 
mended by  Downing  as  purser, 
169 

La  Verpilliere,  Pindar's  party  lodge 
at,  xlvi,  118;  other  spellings  of  the 
name,  118  «.  8 

Lazaretto,  at  Spalato,  xl,  86;  de- 
scription of  a,  Iv,  87,  87  11.  I ;  why 
established,  87 

Leate,  Nicholas,  secretary  of  the 
Levant  Company,    176 

Le  Bruyn,  Corneille,  his  Voyage  ait 
Levant  referred  to,  31  «.  r,  32  «.  2, 

33  «•  I.  33  «•  ^ 

Leeseecheechee.     See  Lisicici 

Leghorn,  Mundy's  description  of, 
xxiv,  16,  17;  decoration  of  houses 
at,  16,  16  n.  8,  17  n.  i  ;  other 
descriptions  of,  17  n.  i ;  lazaretto, 
at,  17  n.  2;  \h^  Royall  Merchant 
bound  to,    16,    166 

Le  Hamel,  Pindar's  party  halt  at,, 
xlviii,  131  ;  situation  of,  131  11.  7 

Lello,  Henry,  ambassador  at  Con- 
stantinople,  171 

Le  Neve,  Peter,  Symonds'  MS- 
bought  from,   217  n.    i 

Leonidas,  King  of  Sparta,  his  prow- 
ess at  Thermopylae,  152  n.  6,  153 

Leopolis,  Bargrave  journeys  to,  215 

Lerma,  Cardinal,  Duke  of,  dies  att 
Valladolid,  li,  Iv,  140,  140  n.  2;  his 
tomb,  140,  140  n.  3;  cause  of  un- 
popularity of,  140  w.  2 ;  his  soni 
supplants,  140  n.  2;  created  Car- 
dinal, 140  «.  2 ;  retires  from  Madrid^ 
140  n.  2 


INDEX 


263 


Levant,  the,  trade  of  the  English  in, 
172;  Blount's  voyage  to,  see  Ap- 
pendix A  ;  Sandys'  travels  in  the, 
see  Appendix  E ;  Des  Hayes' 
journey  to  the,  see  Appendix  F 

Levant  Company,  the,  directors 
and  members  of,  xxiii  n.  4,  xxvii, 
14  n.  ir,  15  n.  i,  15  n.  3,  23  n.  4, 
162,  172;  history  and  constitution 
of,  16  n.  5,  171-173;  ambassadors 
of,  xxvi,  xxvii,  22  n.  i,  23  n.  5, 
171,  173,  176,  177,  178,  180,  181, 
182;  Greene's  case  referred  to, 
44  w.  6;  a  consul  for  Smyrna 
recommended  to,  44  11.  6;  Henry 
Davis  delivers  letters  to,  138  n.  3; 
compared  with  the  East  India  Com- 
pany, 172;  Chardin's  account  of 
the,  172-174;  value  of  the  trade  of, 
173  ;  salary  paid  to  officials  of,  173  ; 
connection  of  the  Wyche  family 
with,  xxiii,  159,  160,  164;  charters 
the  Royall  Merchant  for  Constanti- 
nople, 166-168;  position  of  the,  at 
Constantinople,  in  Mundy's  time, 
174;  decline  of  the  prosperity  of, 
174;  suffers  from  the  depredation 
of  pirates,   176 

Ley  family,  the,  of  Penzance, 
original  owners  of  Add.  MS. 
33420,  Ixii 

Lido,  Fort,  90  n.  2 

Lido,  Port,  at  entrance  into  the 
lagoons  of  Venice,  89,  89  n.  8, 
90  11.  2,  96  n.    I 

Light  horsemen,  hired  from  Graves- 
end  to  Blackwall,  136;  definition  of, 
136  n.  2 

Lion  s  Whelp,  pinnace,  169 

Lira,  value  of,  92  n.  i,  98,  98  n.  4, 
^9,  100  n.  4,  123,  235 

Lisicici,  Pindar's  party  reach, 
xxxviii,  83 ;  distance  of  from 
Konjica,   83  n.  3 

Lithgow,  William,  his  Painefull 
Peregrhiations  referred  to,  see  notes 
on  pp.  i6,  17,  18,  20,  21,  23,  31, 
50,  55,  62,  67,  68,  88,  96,  99,  106, 

139 
Little    Bridge,    the.     See    Kuchuk 

Chekmeje 
Livanjsko  Polje,  the,  84  n.  7 
Livius,    Titus,    buried     at     Padua, 

99  '^-  5 
Livno,  84  n.  6,  84  n.  7 
Livorne.     See  Leghorn 
Livre.     See  Lira 
Ljubowija,    river,     Pindar's     party 

follow  the,  xxxvi,  xxxvii,  79  ;^.  2, 

79  "■  5 


Lobster  boat,  Mundy's  trading 
voyage  to  London  in  a,  xvi 

Lodi,  Pindar's  party  dine  at,  xliii, 
106;  in  the  Duchy  of  Milan, 
106  n.   I 

Loire,  river,  116  n.  5;  shallowness 
of,  in  summer,  xlvi,  120,  122,  228; 
towns  on  the  banks  of  the,  xlvi, 
120,  120  n.  2,  121,  121  n.  I,  122, 
122  n.  7;  Pindar's  party  travel  to 
Orleans  011  the,  xlvi,  Iv,  122, 
136;  floating  mills  on  the,  xlvii, 
122;  description  of  the  country 
on  its  banks,  xlvi,  123,  227,  227 
7Z.  5 ;  Symonds'  description  of  the, 

"227 

Lonato,  Pindar's  party  lodge  at,  xlii, 
103 

London,  Mundy's  journey  overland 
from  Constantinople  to,  xv,  xxxvii- 
xlix,  1,  Ivii,  7,  24;  Mundy's  descrip- 
tion of  occurrences  in,  10;  compared 
with  Constantinople,  30,  188,  191, 
192 ;  the  Exchange  in,  compared 
with  that  in  Paris,  129  n.  4; 
Mundy's  journeys  to  and  from, 
145 ;  Mundy  writes  his  second 
Appendix  in,   xvi,   lix 

Long,  Charles  Edward,  edits  Sy- 
monds' Diary  of  the  Marches  of 
the  Royal  Army,   217  ;^.    i 

Longjumeau,  xlvii,  123  n.  6,  124 

Loucharick.     See  Su^uraz 

Louis  XII.  of  France,  orders  the 
building  of  Pont  Notre  Dame, 
125  n.   I 

Louis  XIII.  of  France,  his  am- 
bassadors at  Constantinople,  xxvii, 
xxxi,  199  n.  2;  his  sister  marries 
the  Prince  of  Piedmont,  no  n.  4, 
113,  234  11.  4;  his  reconciliation 
with  his  mother,  128  n.  4;  plans 
the  death  of  the  Marechal  d'Ancre, 
129,  129  n.  I 

Loup,  Le,  at  Roanne,  228 

Louvre,  the,  Mundy's  description  of, 
xlvii,  126-128;  Symonds'  descrip- 
tion of,  224,  225  ;  other  descriptions 
of,  127  n.  3,  128  n.  1,  128  n.  2, 
128  11.  3;  gardens  surrounding,  127, 
127  n.  5,  224,  225;  registry-office 
beneath,   225 

Low  Countries,  the,  133 

Lowe,  Francis,  son  of  Sir  Thomas 
Lowe,  xxvii  n.  3,  172;  made  free 
of  the  Levant  Company,  xxvii  «.  3  ; 
escorts  Pindar  from  Constantinople, 
45,  47,  47  n.  I ;  ?  in  action  at 
Algiers,  45  n.  3 ;  a  merchant  at 
Galata,   172 


264 


INDEX 


Lowe,  Sir  Thomas,  father  of  Francis 
Lowe,  167,  i'j2;  governor  of  the 
Levant  Company,    172 

Lubeck,  1 1 

Lucy,  Captain,  visits  Pindar  at 
Venice,  92 

Lugar  Nuevo,  the  Guadiana  flows 
underground  from,  xxii  «.   3 

Lule-Burgas,  47  ;?.  3,  48  n.  4,  156; 
Pindar's  party  halt  near,  xxviii, 
XXX,  48 ;  other  names  for,  48  «.  3  ; 
Des  Hayes  halts  at,  212;  mosque 
and  k/ian  at,  212,  216;  Bargrave's 
description  of,  216 

Lussin,  L,  xl,-  88  ;z.  5,  88  n.  6, 
88  71.   7 

Luxembourg  Palace,  the,  Mundy 
visits,  xlvii,  126  ;  for  whom  built, 
T26  «.  3;  description  of,  126  ;?.  3, 
225,  226 

Lyons,  Mundy's  description  of,  xlvi, 
119;  Pindar's  party  lodge  at,  xlvi, 
119;  cost  of  horse  hire  from  Turin 
to,  xliv,  119;  other  descriptions  of, 
119  n.  4,  229;  water-mills  at,  xlvi, 
119,  149;  Symonds'  route  to,  228, 
228  ;/.  5;  country  between  Tarare 
and,  described,  229;  Symonds'  ex- 
penses from  Nevers  to,  235 

Mabe,  residence  of  the  Worth  family, 

Ixiii 

Macao,  Mundy's  voyage  to,  6,  9,  ir 

Macedonia,  152,  152  /z.  5;  Blount's 

voyage  to,    [46;    Sophia  reckoned 

in,    151 

Madagascar     or     St     Lawrence, 

Mundy's  voyage  to,    1,  9,   11 
Maiden  Tower,  at  Scutari,  197 
Mainwaring,  Sir  Henry,  visits  Pindar 
at  Venice,  92  ;   commands  English 
soldiers   for  Venice,  92   w.    3,    92 
n.    6;     suit     against,    for     taking 
Wardeman's   ship,  92   w.  6;    par- 
doned, 92  n.  6 
Majorca,  15 

Malacca,  Mundy's  voyage  to,  9 
Malaga,  Mundy  touches  at,  14,  15, 

24 

Malay  Peninsula,  the,  5  ;?.  i 

Malefactors,  how  punished  in  Tur- 
key, 55,  56,  57;  in  France,  punish- 
ment of,  I  23,  124 

Malegnano,  Pindar's  party  lodge  at, 
xliii,  ro6 

Maltravers,  James,  Lord,  son  of  the 
Earl  of  Arundel,  xlii,  roo;  studies 
at  Padua,  xlii,  100,  100  jj.  i  ;  inter- 
changes visits  with  Pindar,  xlii,  100 ; 
dies  at  Ghent,  100  ft.  i 


Manilas  (Philippine  Is.),  Mundy's 
intended  voyage  to  the,  6 

Manneringe,  Captain.  See  Main- 
waring,  Sir  Henry 

Mantua,  Duke  of.  See  Francis  de 
Gonzaga 

Maps  in  Mundy's  MS.,  the  World, 
I  n.  I,  6,  6  u.  I ;  Europe,  6,  6  «.  i, 
r  I  n.  2  ;  Turkey,  6  n.  i  ;  Arabia, 
6  «.  I ;  Italy,  6  «.  i ;  Savoy,  6  n.  i, 

109  ft.  6,  118  fi.  2;  Gaul,  6  ft.  I, 
116  ft.  5,  121  ft.  8,  122  M.  5; 
Asia,  6  n.  1 ;  the  track  of  Mundy's 
voyages  marked  on  the,  6 

Marcigny,  Pindar's  party  reach, 
120,  228  ft.  5;  monastery  at, 
120  ft.  4 
Margaf-et.,  the,  of  Weymouth,  45  ft.  5 
Margaret,  of  Savoy,  marries  the 
Dukeof  Mantua,  iio«.  5;  dispute 
about    the    custody   of   her  child, 

1 10  ft.  5 

Mai-gett  {Margarett),  the,  Mundy  sails 

for    England   in,    li,    141;    goes   to 

Aleppo  for  the  Levant  Co.  in,  141 

«.  3 
Marie,  of  Savoy,  a  nun,  no  ;/.  5 
Marie  de  Medici,  portrait  of,  in  the 

Louvre,    xlvii,    127,    127    ft.   4;    is 

reconciled  with  her  son,  128  ft.  4 
Maritza,  river,  xxxi,  xxxii,  54  «.  9, 

i55>    '56,  209,  210,  211;    Mustafa 

Pasha's  bridge  over  the,   2 10 
Mark  Antony,  fights  against  Brutus 

and  Cassius,  153,  154  ft.  i 
Market,    of    Women.      See    Avret- 

bazar 
Marketon.  the  Mundys  of,  xiv 
Marlborough     Downs,     compared 

with    the    Philippic    Fields,    153; 

battle  fought  on  the,    153 
Marmora,  Sea  of  (Propontick  Sea), 

47  ft.  4,  183,  212,  213;    extent  of, 

198 
Marne,    river,    compared    with    the 

Morava,   204 
Marquise,  Pindar's  party  follow  the 

coastline  to,  xlviii,   133 
Mars,    god    of    war,    amphitheatres 

consecrated  to,  102 
Marseilles,  119  ti.  1 
Martin,    Mme,   Symonds'  landlady, 

224 
Maf-y    Rose,     the,     Lawrence    Spike 

recommended    as    purser    for,     42 

■n.    I 
Matthias,    Emperor,     embassy    to, 

from  the  Grand  Signior,   50  ft.  2 ; 

Caspar   Gratiani    treats   with    the, 

51 


INDEX 


265 


Maubert,  Place,  224 

Maurice,  son  of  the  Duke  of  Savoy, 
marries  his  niece,  i  [O  n.  6 

Mauritius,  I.,  Mundy's  arrival  at,  9 

Mecca,  Osman'spretended  pilgrimage 
to,  22  ;;.    t 

Medici,  Marie  de,  the  Luxemliourg 
built  for,  126,  126  11.  3;  pictures  of 
her  life  in  the  Luxembourg,  226 

Medina  Sidonia,  Duke  of.  See 
Guzman,   Don  Alonso  Perez  de 

Mediterranean  Sea  (the  Straights), 
15  n.  4,  15  II.  5,  16,  20;  Mundy's 
voyage  in  the,  xxiii,  15-18,  84  «.  4; 
English  trade  in  the,    159,  171 

Medvednjik  Planina,  the,  Mundy's 
party  cross,  xxxvi,  79  ;^.  2,  79 
ft.   4 

Meeching,  original  name  of  New- 
haven,  xviii  «.   4 

Menavinus,  Antonius,  his  remark 
on  the  capacity  of  S.  Sophia, 
194 

Menick,  Sir  John,  his  testimony  as 
to  R.  Wyche's  son,  159 

Merchants,  English,  trading  under 
the  Levant  Company,  16,  16  11.  5; 
their  residence  at  Constantinople, 
22  n.  2  ;  their  life  at  Constantinople, 
22  ;  Eyre  quarrels  with  the,  at  Con- 
stantinople, 181 

M eredith,  Jane,  marries  Peter  Wyche, 

Messina,  15  n.  7,  16 

Mestre,  Canale  di.     See  Cannaregio 

Mexico,  Mundy's  intended  voyage 
to,   6,  6  n.  2 

Milan,  post-road  from  Venice  to, 
xlii,  loi  7!.  4;  Pindar's  party  dine 
at,  xliii,  106 ;  Pindar  exchanges 
visits  with  the  governor  of,  xliii, 
106;  cathedral  at,  xliii,  106;  castle 
at,  xliii,  107,  107  n.  1 

Milan,  Duchy  of,  105  n.  6,  105  n.  8 ; 
extent  of  the,  106  n.  i ;  boundary 
of  the,  xliii,  xliv,  108,  108  n.  5 

Militsch,  Mt.,  ascent  of,  by  Pindar's 
party,  probable,  84  n.  2 

Miljacka  or  Miljatzka,  river,  xxxviii, 

82,   82  7Z.    2 

Mills,  description  of,  at  Belgrade, 
XXXV,  xlvi,  72,  72  n.  4,  73,  82  n.  3, 
119;  on  the  Maritza,  72  n.  4;  at 
Sarajevo,  xxxviii,  82,  82  «.  3  ;  at 
Lyons,  xlvi,  119;  on  the  Loire, 
xlvii,    122 

Mincing  Lane,  Richard  Wyche's 
house  in,  136,  161 

Minorca,  15  «.  7,  16 

Modane,  Symonds  dines  at,  232 


Modena,  Duke  of,  marries  Isabella 

of  Savoy,    i 10  «.    5 
Modyford,  James,  travels  with  Bar- 
grave,  2  r  5 
Mogol,  the  Great,  8 
Mohacz,  the  Hungarians  defeated  at 

the  battle  of,  149  fi.  4 
Moisselles,      Pindar's     party     pass 

through,  xlviii,   131,   131   n.   6 
Moldavia,     Caspar    Gratiani    made 

governor  of.  xxxi,  Iv,  50  n.  2,  51  ; 

called    Bugdamia    by    Mundy    and 

others,   51   7i.   1 
Molton,  Captain  Robert,  commands 

the  Margett,  li,  141;    Mundy  sails 

with,    143 
Molucca,  Islands,  5 
Monsieur.     See  Orleans,  Duke  of 
Montargis,  Des  Hayes  the  son  of  a 

governor   of,    1 99  «.   2  ;    Symonds' 

description  of  the  country  between 

Paris  and,  227;  castle  at,  227;  boats 

built  at,  227 
Montmelian,   bridge  at,  115  n.   3; 

Pindar   precedes  his  followers  to, 

xlv,  116;   description  of,  116  «.  2, 

116  n.  ^,  230;  castle  at,  230;  siege 

of,  230 
Montreuil-sur-mer,  Pindar's  party 

lodge    at,    xlviii,    132;    description 

of,   132,    132  11.  4,  219,  219  n.  3; 

other  spellings   of  the  name,   132 

n.  4 
Moody,    Mr,    merchant    at    Galata, 

escorts  Pindar  from  Constantinople, 

44 

Morans,  chairmen,  11471.  i 

Morant,  Philip,  his  Histoiy  of  Essex 
referred  to,  217  n.  i 

Morava,  river,  70  «.  5,  70  71.  7 ; 
Pindar's  party  cross  the,  xxxiv,  70; 
Poullet  and  Des  Hayes  cross  the, 
70  71.  6,  204 ;  source  and  outlet  of 
the,  203,  204 ;  compared  with  the 
Marne,   204 

Moravia,  68  «.  4 

Morea,  the,  18  ;/.  3 

Morel,  Bartolome,  casts  the  Giraldillo, 
XXI  n.  3 

Moryson,  Fynes,  his  Ili7iera7y  re- 
ferred to,  31  71.  2,  37  71.  6,  38  «.  I, 
38  ;/.  2,  40  71.  1 

Moscovia.     See  Russia 

Moscow,  Mundy's  intended  journey 
to,  6 

Mosques,  at  Constantinople,  25,  29, 

3.3>  3.S  «•  1.  35>  35  «•  4>  39  «•  i. 
185,  189,  193,  194;  in  Turkey,  53, 
54;  at  Belgrade,  73,  74;  at  Sara- 
jevo, xxxviii,  82,  82  71.  I,  148,  148 


266 


INDEX 


n.  3  ;  at  Sophia,  152,  156 ;  at 
Adrianople,  156,  211;  built  as  acts 
of  reparation,  210,  216 

Mostar,  route  of  railway  from  Sara- 
jevo to,  xxxviii,  82  n.  5,  83  n.  4 

Moulin,  Symonds  passes,  on  the  way 
to  Roanne,  228  n.  5 

Muhammad  II.,  31  n.  i,  36  n.  i, 
39  11.  I  ;  fortifies  the  Seraglio  at 
Constantinople,  35  n.  5 ;  builds  the 
Seraglio  at  Sarajevo,  8r  w.  2 

Muhamrriad  III.,  takes  Kaniza,  75 
n.  3 

Muhammad,  the  Prophet,  birth  of, 
34  II-  2,  35  n.  2 

Meleto,  Patriarch  at  Constantinople, 

37  «•  4 

Mundy,  — ,  aunt  of  Peter  Mundy, 
wife  of  John  Jackson,   xiii 

Mundy,  — ,  brother  of  Peter  Mundy, 
xiii 

Mundy,  — ,  mother  of  Peter  Mundy, 
probable  date  of  death  of,  xiii 

Mundy,  • — ,  sister  of  Richard  Mundy, 
marries  Hannibal  Vivian,  xv 

Mundy,  — ,  uncle  of  Peter  Mundy, 
xiii;  engaged  in  the  pilchard  busi- 
ness, xiii,  1,  137 

Mundy,  Anthony,  junior,  of  Penryn, 
burial  of,  xv 

Mundy,  Anthony,  senior,  of  Penryn, 
merchant,  xv 

Mundy,  Joan,  daughter  of  Robert 
Mundy,  marries  George  Kest,  xiv 

Mundy,  John,  founder  of  the  Mundy 
family,  xiv 

Mundy,  Sir  John,  eighth  of  the  line, 
xiv 

Mundy,  Sir  John,  Lord  Mayor  of 
London,   family  of,  xiv 

Mundy,  John,  fifth  son  of  Sir  J. 
Mundy,  settles  at  Rialton  Manor, 
xiv 

Mundy,  Peter,  senior,  grandfather 
of  Peter  Mundy,  xiii;  "chantor" 
of  Glasney  College,  xiii,  xiv 

Mundy,  Peter,  birth  and  parentage 
of,  xiii;  early  days  and  education 
of,  xvi,  xvii;  goes  to  Normandy, 
xvii,  2,  7,  13;  spends  a  year  in 
Bayonne,  xvii,  13;  cabin  boy  to 
Captain  Davis,  xvii,  13;  visits 
Spanish  ports,  xvii,  14;  lives  at 
Sanlucar,  xvii,  xxii,  14 ;  learns 
Spanish  at  Seville,  xviii,  xx,  14, 
137  '^^  5;  goes  to  Ayamonte  and 
Tavira,  xviii,  xxii,  14;  returns  to 
England,  xviii,  xx,  xx  11.  7,  14; 
enters  the  service  of  James  Wyche, 
xxiii,  14,  160;   sails  on  the  Royall 


Merchant  to  Constantinople,  xxiii, 
14;  touches  at  ports  in  the  Medi- 
terranean, xxiii,  15,  16;  arrives  at 
Constantinople,  xxiv,  7,  to,  13,  21, 
160,  172,  175,  177;  remains  at 
Constantinople  for  three  years, 
xxiv,  22  ;  death  of  his  master,  xxv, 
23 ;  lives  with  Lawrence  Greene, 
junior,  xxv,  xxvi,  23 ;  travels  over- 
land to  England  in  Pindar's  train, 
xxvi-xlix,  1,  7,  10,  13,  41-136; 
takes  leave  of  Pindar,  xlix,  136, 
179;  goes  to  Richard  Wyche,  136, 
161;  goes  to  Penryn,  137;  returns 
to  London,  137  «.  3 ;  goes  to  Seville 
with  pilchards,  1, 1 37 ;  enters  Richard 
Wyche's  service,  1,  137,  162;  posts 
to  Spain  about  the  "copper  con- 
tract," 1,  138,  139  n.  3,  162; 
returns  to  London  on  the  Margett, 
li,  141,  162;  goes  to  Colchester, 
143;  his  master  dies,  143,  162; 
goes  to  Cornwall,  lii,  143;  goes  to 
St  Malo  and  Jersey,  lii,  144 ; 
returns  to  Penryn,  144;  petitions 
the  East  India  Company  for  em- 
ployment, lii,  144;  refuses  to  enter 
Sir  Peter  Wyche's  service,  156, 
163;  entertained  as  under  factor 
by  the  E.  I.  Co.,  liii,  144,  145 
n.  I  ;  his  salary  under  Richard 
Wyche  and  the  E.  I.  Co.,  1,  lii,  liii, 
145  71.  I  ;  his  voyages  to  India, 
China,  Holland,  Russia,  etc.,  liv, 
Ivii,  Iviii,  2,  4  11.  3,  7,  8,  9,  10,  11 ; 
his  travels  in  England  and  Wales, 
9,  1 1 ;  chronological  account  of  his 
career,  xv,  xvi ;  dies  intestate,  Ixiii; 
his  First  Relation,  13-24;  his  Sup- 
plement to  his  First  Relation,  24-40 ; 
his  Second  Relation,  41-136;  his 
Third  Relation,  137-145;  mileage 
covered  by,  in  his  travels,  xxv, 
xxix,  1,  liv,  10,  24,  136,  145;  his 
routes  marked  on  maps  in  his  MS., 
6,  30  n.  2,  84  n.  4,  109  n.  6,  116 
71.  5 ;  his  additional  remarks  on 
France  and  Spain,  xviii-xxiii;  his 
remarks  on  Constantinople,  xxvi, 
30-40;  his  description  of  Turkish 
pastimes  and  punishments,  55-59; 
his  description  of  Belgrade  and 
"Bulgarians,"  xxxv,  Iv,  72-78;  his 
route  from  Valjevo  to  Spalato  diffi- 
cult to  trace,  xxxvi,  xxxvii,  xxxviii, 
78  71.  3;  his  observations  on  Venice, 
xl-xlii,  90-98 ;  his  description  of 
Paris,  xlvii,  xlviii,  124-130;  his 
route  across  France  compared  with 
Symonds',  228  71.  5;  his  description 


INDEX 


267 


of  Valladolid,  li,  139-141;  his  ob- 
servations on  goitre,  104,  104  n.  6, 
117;  his  remarks  on  Italian  vine- 
yards, xliii,  105  ;  his  quotations  from 
other  authors,  xxvi,  25-27,  27-30, 
146  n.  I,  183  n.  3,  187  n.  i,  192 
n.  4;  his  friends  and  patrons,  xiv, 
XV,  xxiii,  1,  liii,  liv,  Ivii,  Ixiii,  2  ; 
his  character  and  attainments,  lii, 
liv,  Iv,  Ivi,  Ivii;  fall  in  the  fortunes 
of  his  family,  li ;  his  title  to  his 
MS.,  I ;  his  Preface,  xiii,  2-6;  his 
Index,  11;  his  Appendix,  xvi, 
xviii  72.  3,  Iviii,  lix,  10,  147  n.  i ; 
scope  and  length  of  his  work,  xv,  3, 
7-1 1 ;  aim  of  his  work,  3-6;  illus- 
trations in  his  MS.,  Ix,  4;  his 
original  account  of  his  early 
voyages  lost,  Ivii,  Iviii,  2 ;  his  re- 
vision of  his  MS.,  Iviii,  Ixii,  103 
n.  5 ;  his  intention  to  re-copy  his 
MS.,  xviii,  lix ;  history  of  the  Raiul. 
MS. ,  Ivii-lxiii ;  other  existing  copies 
of  the  travels  of,  lix-lxii 

Mundy,  Richard,  senior,  merchant, 
father  of  Peter  Mundy,  xiii,  Ivii, 
Ixii,  2,  13,  137,  143  n.  7;  resides  at 
Penryn,  xiii ;  apprenticed  at  Totnes, 
xiii ;  takes  Peter  Mundy  to  Rouen, 
xiii,  xvii;  trades  in  pilchards,  xiii,  1 ; 
last  mention  of,  in  Mundy's  MS., 
xiii;  probable  date  of  death  of,  xiv 

Mundy,  Richard,  third  son  of  John 
Mundy  of  Rial  ton,  xiv;  his  con- 
nection with  Peter  Mundy  discussed, 
xiv 

Mundy,  Richard,  great-grandson  of 
John  Mundy  of  Rialton,  xiv;  dies 
unmarried,  xiv;  his  sister  marries 
Hannibal  Vivian,  xiv 

Mundy,  Robert,  of  Penryn,  merchant, 
marriage  of  the  daughter  of,  xiv,  xv ; 
burial  of,  xiv 

Mundy,  Thomas,  son  of  Sir  John 
Mundy,  xiv;  Prior  of  Bodmin,  xiv; 
death  of,  xiv;  his  connection  with 
Peter  Mundy,  senior,  discussed,  xiv 

Mundys,  the,  of  Derbyshire  and 
Leicestershire,  xiv 

Mundys,  the,  of  Penryn,  xiii,  xiv, 

XV 

Mundys,  the,  of  St  Colomb  Minoi", 

xiv,  xxiii 
Murad  IV.,  son  of  Ahmad,  succeeds 

Osman,    21    n.    6,    25,    25    «.    2, 

.S9  "■  4 
Murad,    Thaddeus,    an    Armenian, 
travels  in  Pindar's  train,  43,  43  n.  4; 
rejoins    the   party    at    Chorlu,    48; 
leaves  Pindar's  train  at  Belgrade, 


xxxvi,  43  n.  4;  returns  to  Con- 
stantinople, xxxvi,  43  71.  4,  76; 
chooses  a  wife  for  his  l^rother, 
xxxvi,  43  71.  4,  76 
Murray,  Dr  James  A.  H.,  his  Oxfo7-d 
English  Dictionary  referred  to, 
16  71.  8,  27  71.  2,  38  71.   3,  55  7t.  5, 

89  7i.   5,    ICO  71.    3,    134  71.    I 

Musa  Palanka.     See  Bela  Palanka 

Muscovy  Company,  the.  Sir  Henry 
Garraway  a  director  of,  14  «.  ii; 
Richard  Wyche,  senior,  and  his 
family  connected  with,  159,  161, 
165;    rise  of,   172 

Mustafa  I.,  imprisonment  of,  21  ;?.  4, 
21  71.  6,  22  It.  i;  appointed  as 
Ahmad 's  successor,  22  n.  i ;  acces- 
sion of,  xxiv,  21,11  7t.  6;  deposition 
of,  xxiv,  21,  21  71.  6,  22  7t.  I,  178; 
restoration  of,  21  7i.  6,  22  n.  1 ;  his 
incompetence,  22  ;?.  i ;  brother  of 
Ahmad,  22  w.  i;  superseded  by 
Osman,  22  7i.  i;  imprisons  the 
Baron  de  Sancy,   43  7t.    1 

Mustafa  Pasha,  his  bridge,  51, 
51  71.  4,  52,  210;  refuses  to  make 
over  his  bridge  to  Sulaiman,  52; 
builds  and  endows  a  khan  at 
Burgas,    212 

Mustafa  Pasha  Kuprusu,  Pindar's 
party  halt  at,  xxviii,  xxxi,  51 ;  story 
of  the  bridge  at,  xxxi,  51,  51  «.  4; 
o:her  names  for,  51  7i.  4 

Naima,    A7mals  of,   referred  to,  65 

71.    I,    71   71.    I,    75  71.    3 

Narenta,  river,  xxxviii,  83  71.  4; 
rapidity  of,  83 

Naviglio-Grande,  canal,  boats  on 
the,  xliii,  xliv;  mistaken  by  Mundy 
for  a  river,  107  «.  2 ;  Pindar's 
party  cross  the,  108 

Naxia,  Naxos,  island,  Caspar  Gra- 
tiani  made  Duke  of,  51 

Neretria,  Neretna,  river.  ^V^fNarenta 

Neufchatel,  Pindar's  party  pass, 
xlviii,  132,  132  71.  5;  Mundy  sees 
the  English  Channel  from,  132 

Neuvy-sur-Loire,  Pindar's  party 
pass,  121,  121  71.  5;  between  Cosne 
and  Briare,  122  7t.  1 

Nevers,  Mundy's  description  of, 
xlvi,  120,  I2r;  other  descriptions 
of,  121  71.  i;  bridge  at,  120,  121 
71.  I ;  Symonds'  route  from  Paris  to, 
227,  228;  Symonds'  route  to 
Roanne  from,  228  71.  5;  Symonds' 
expenses  at,  235 

Nevett,  Richard,  travels  with  Bar- 
grave,  215 


268 


INDEX 


Newgate,  reprieved  prisoners  in,  to 

serve  as  soldiers,  92  n.  5 
Newhaven,  original  name  of,   xviii 
n.  4 

Nice.     See  Nissa 

Nicea,  river.     See  Nissava,  river 

Nichols,  John,  his  History  of  the 
County  of  Leicester  referred  to,  xiv 
n.  2;  his  Progresses  of  King  James 
referred  to,  179,  179  n.  i 

Nissa  or  Nisch,  Pindar  halts  at, 
xxix,  69 ;  roads  near,  patrolled  by 
Janissaries,  68  n.  3,  205;  dangers 
in  the  approach  to,  69,  204,  205 ; 
situation  of,  6'9,  204 ;  castle  and 
walls  at,  69,  204;  other  spellings  of 
the  name,  69  n.  1,  204;  neighbour- 
hood of,  infested  by  robbers,  69, 
69  n.  2,  205 ;  descriptions  of, 
xxxiv,  69  n.  5,  151,  204;  district 
on  either  side  of,  described,  xxxiv, 
70,  204,  205;  under  the  govern- 
ment of  Buda,  204 

Nissava,  river,  bridge  over  the, 
xxxiv,  69,  69  n.  5;  flows  into  the 
Morava,  204;  separates  Servia 
from  Bulgaria,  69  71.  5,  204 

Nissy,  Lac  de,  118  «.  i 

Norden,  John,  his  Description  of 
Cornwall  referred  to,  xvii  n.  3, 
xvii  n.  6 

Normandy,  Mundy's  first  visit  to, 
xviii,  ]3,  24;  Mundy's  second  visit 
to,  138" 

Norris,  John,  supercargo,  sails  in 
the  Royall  Mary,  8 

Northamptonshire,  compared  with 
the  district  near  Bearne,  220 

North  Cape,  the,  Mundy  sails  to,  11 

North  Petherwin,  Mundy's  uncle 
rector  of,  xiii,  xvii,  Ivi 

Norway,  Mundy  sails  along  the 
coast  of,  1 1 

Notre  Dame,  cathedral,  in  Paris, 
xlvii,  xlviii,  130,  130  n.  i,  223, 
223  n.  4,  226 

Nottingham,  Earl  of,  ratifies  a 
treaty  between  France  and  Spain, 
139  n.  4 

NouTeau  Gnide  dii  Voyageur  referred 
to,    106  n.  4 

Novalese,  Pindar's  party  lodge  at, 
xliv,  112;  situation  of,  112,  112 
n.  2,  1x5  n.  4;  character  of  the 
inhabitants  of,  112  n.  2;  Symonds 
dines  at,  233 

Novara,  Pindar's  party  dine  at,  xliv, 
loS 

Novibazar,  78  n.  i 

Novi  Khan.     See  Yeni  Khan 


Octavius  Caesar,  siege  of  Salona 
by,  147,  147  n.  3 

Oglio,  river,  Pindar's  party  cross 
the,  xliii,  105 

Oil,  obtained  from  the  neighbour- 
hood of  Seville,  xxii ;  exported  from 
Ayamonte  and  Castro  Marin,  xxiii 

Old  Castile,  139,  142  n.  i 

Olive  trees,  abundance  of,  near 
Seville,  xxii;  near  Spalato,  xxxix, 
86 

Ombersley,  Worcestershire,  home 
of  George  Sandys,  192  n.  3 

Orestes,  son  of  Agamemnon,  founds 
Adrianople,  155;  story  of,  155  «.  7 

Orge,  river,  124  n.  1 

Oria,  river,  141  n.  4 

Orient  Express  Railway,  route  of 
the,  from  Constantinople  to  Bel- 
grade, xxviii,  xxix 

Orleans,  compared  with  Sophia,  62 
n.  I ;  Pindar's  party  reach,  by 
boat,  xlvi,  120-122.  227  n.  2;  cost 
of  boat-hire  from  Roanne  to,  120, 
228;  Mundy's  description  of,  122; 
statue  of  Joan  of  Arc  at,  xlvii,  122, 
122  n.  7;  other  descriptions  of, 
122  n.  7;  Mundy's  brief  stay  at, 
xlvii,  123;  coaches  hired  from,  to 
Paris,  xlvii,  123;  road  from,  to 
Toury  described,  xlvii,  123,  123  n. 
6  ;  execution  of  two  men  near,  xlvii, 
123;  Pindar's  route  from,  to  Paris, 
xlvii,  123  w.  3;  towns  between 
Paris  and,  walled,  130;  Mundy's 
second  visit  to,  116  ;/.  5 

Orleans,  Duke  of,  his  cousin  killed, 
124;  his  castle  at  Montargis,  227 

Orpheus,  Mundy's  allusion  to,  61  «. 
9;  laments  Eurydice,  152,  T52  n. 
5,  209 ;  dismembered  by  the  Thrac- 
ians,  152,  152  n.  5 

Orzi  Nuovi,  Pindar's  party  pass, 
xliii,  105;  description  of  the  coun- 
try from  Venice  to,  105 

Orzi  Vecchi,  Pindar's  party  lodge  at, 
xliii,  105 

Osbaston  Hall,  Leicestershire,  the 
Mundys  of,  xiv 

Osborne,  T.,  his  Collection  of 
Voyages  referred  to,   146  n.  5 

Osman,  eldest  son  of  Ahmad,  22, 
22  71.  r  ;  deposes  Mustafa,  xxiv,  21 
n.  6,  22,  22  71.  I,  178;  plans  to 
change  his  capital,  22  7i.  i;  his 
plot  frustrated,  22  7i.  \  ;  makes 
peace  with  France,  43  71.  i  ;  im- 
prisoned and  killed,  22  w.  i 
Osman    L,    insignia    conferred   on, 

64  71.    I 


INDEX 


269 


Ossero,  Pindar's  party  sail  to,  88  ; 
situation  of,  8S,  88  n.  5 

Ossero,  Canal  d',  xl,  88  n.  6 

Ossero,  Monte,  88  n.  5 

Otters,  in  England,  5 

Ousson,  Pindar's  party  pass,  i-zr, 
121  n.  7 

Oxford,  Earl  of,  the,  acquires  Pin- 
dar's copy  of  Mundy's  early  Travels, 
Ix 

Oxford  English  Dictionary,  the,  re- 
ferred to.  See  Murray,  Dr  James 
A.  H. 


Padua,  boat  hired  for  Pindar's  party 
from  Venice  to,  xlii,  98;  Mundy's 
description  of,  xlii,  99;  Bargrave's 
description  of,  99  n.  i ;  distance 
from  Venice  to,  99  n.  1 ;  university 
at,  xlii,  99  11.  2,  99  71.  5,  100,  loo 
n.  2;  inn  at,  xlii,  99,  99  «.  3;  Hall 
of  Audience  at,  xlii,  99  n.  5 ;  other 
descriptions  of,  99  w.  5 ;  Pindar 
hires  caroches  from,  to  Verona, 
xlii,  100;  Thomas  Humes  remains 
at,  xlii,  loi;  distance  from,  to 
Vicenza.   loi   «.    2 

Palais  d' Orleans.    See  Luxembourg 

Palangha,  a  small  fort  or  stockade, 
Mundy's  description  of  a,  xxxiv, 
XXXV,  68,  68  n.  i ;  Des  Hayes' 
description  of  a,  68  n.  i,  205;  at 
Yagodin,  Pindar's  party  halt  at, 
70;  description  of  Hassan  Pasha's, 
71,  205;  a,  at  Grotzka,  71;  a,  at 
Batotschina,  71  n.  r;  why  erected, 
151,  205,  206 

Palanka.  See  Bela  Palanka;  Hassan 
Pasha's  Palanka 

Pantler,  a,  appointed  for  Pindar, 
1 10,  1 10  n.  2 

Papas-cue,  Bargrave  halts  at,  215 

Papasli,  Pindar's  party  dine  at, 
xxviii,  xxxi,  54  ;  Poullet's  spelling 
of,  54  n.  8 

Paratjin,  Parachin  Palanka,  Pindar's 
party  pass,  xxix,  xxxiv,  70  ;  other 
spellings  of  the  name,  70  n.  4,  204 ; 
Des  Hayes  halts  at,  204 ;  inhabit- 
ants of,  204  ;  inscriptions  on  the 
old  road  between  Rashan  and,  204 

Parenzo,  residence  of  the  Capitano 
of  Istria,  xli  n.   i 

Paris,  Pindar's  party  reach,  xlvii,  42 
n.  5,  46  n.  3  ;  Mundy's  route  from 
Turin  to,  xliv-xlvii,  109  11.  3 ; 
Symonds'  route  from  Turin  to,  109 
n.  3,  217  11.  I  ;  coaches  hired  from 
Orleans   to,   xlvii,   123;  road  from 


Orleans  to,  described,  xlvii,  123  n. 
6,  130;  road  from  Angerville  to, 
described,  xlvii,  124;  Pindar's 
party  lodge  in  the  Rue  St  Martin 
at,  xlvii,  124;  Mundy's  description 
of,  xlvii,  xlviii,  124-130;  bridges 
in,  xlvii,  124,  125;  Luxembourg 
palace  in,  xlvii,  126;  Louvre  in, 
described,  xlvii,  126-128,  224,225; 
the  Exchange  in,  xlvii,  129,  129  n. 
4;  coaches  hired  from,  for  Calais, 
xlviii,  130  ;  Notre  Dame  at,  descrip- 
tion of,  xlvii,  xlviii,  130,  130  11.  i  ; 
Mundy's  route  to  Beauvais  from, 
xlviii,  131  n.  6;  Gainsford's  re- 
marks on,  187  ;  Symonds'  descrip- 
tion of,  217  n.  I,  223-227;  the 
country  between  Beaumont  and, 
described,  222  ;  Symonds'  expenses, 
to  Turin  from,  235 

Parker,  Charles,  Mundy  resides  with, 
at  Seville,  xv,  xviii,  14 

Pashas,  the,  dethrone  Mustafa,  22 
n.  X.     See  also  s.v.  Bashds 

Pastimes  in  Turkey,  Mundy's. 
description  of,  58,  59 

Patinno,  Senor  Pedro,  Mundy  re- 
sides with,  at  Sanlucar,  xviii,  14 

Patna,  Mundy's  journey  to,  7,   8,  lo 

Paul  v.,  pope,  canonizes  Cardinal 
Boromeo,  106  n.  7  ;  creates  the 
Duke  of  Lerma  a  cardinal,  140  n.  2 

Pausanias,  187 

Payes,  Adrian,  sues  Richard  Lane 
for  his  son's  debts,  42  n.  2 

Pazaric  or  Pasarij,  Pindar's  party 
reach,  xxxviii,  82 ;  distance  of, 
from  Sarajevo,  82  n.  5  ;  other 
spellings  of  the  name,  82  n.  5 

Pears,  Edwin,  his  note  on  Troy,  157 

71.  3 

Pearson,  J.  B.,  his  Chaplai7is  to  the 
Leva7it  Co7iipa7iy  referred  to,  23  7t. 

4,    179  71.  4 

Peine  fo7-te  et  dure,  history  and. 
description  of,  5  71.  2 

Penmaenmawr,  compared  with  Mt. 
Cenis,  113  «•  5 

Pennington,  Captain,  45  71.  3 

Pennington,  William,  a  member  of 
Pindar's  train,  43 

Penryn,  Mundy's  native  town,  xiii,. 
XV,  xvii,  Ixi,  13,  24;  Mundy's  visits 
to,  xvi,  1,  liv,  Ivii,  2,  137,  143, 
144  ;  Mundy  revises  and  concludes 
his  MS.  at,  xvi,  Iviii,  lix  ;  other 
Mundys  in,  xiv,  xv ;  a  "  free 
Schoole  "  at,  xvii ;  Mundy's  remarks, 
on,  Ixii 

Peons,  8 


270 


INDEX 


Pera,  a  suburb  of  Constantinople, 
xxviii,  22  n.  2,  27,  29,  44,  47  n.  i, 
48  w.  3,  185,  187,  194,  214;  Eng- 
lish and  French  ambassadors 
reside  at,  xxv,  xxvii,  41,  47  n.  3, 
176,  214;  the  Levant  Company's 
merchants  reside  at,  xxv,  174; 
Galata  included  in,  190  n.  5  ; 
description  of,  190  ;  bdshds  houses 
at,  191 

Peramees,  transit-boats,  38,  196 ; 
description  of,  38  n.  2 ;  other 
spellings  of  the  name,  38  n.  2, 
196  ;  rowed  by  Egyptians,  196 

Persia,  4,  19  w.-  2  ;  William  Garra- 
way  agent  in,  liv  ;  treaty  between 
Constantinople  and,  65  n.  i  ;  Des 
Hayes'  mission  to,  199  «.  2 

Persia,  Emperor  of.  See  Shah  'Abbas 

Perter  Pasha,  Burun  Kasim  enter- 
tained by,  65  «.  I 

Peschiera,  situation  of,  xlii,  104, 104 
n.   I  ;  castle  at,  xlii,    104,  104  11.  2 

Petricevic,  85  71.  2 

Pett,  Captain  Phineas,  his  request 
for  Downing's  lodgings,  170 

Peyton,  Sir  Henry,  commands  Eng- 
lish soldiers  at  Zara,  xl,  88  n.  4,  92 
n.  3 ;  visits  Pindar  at  Venice,  92  ; 
account  of,  92  n.  3 

Pharaon,  Rue  de.  See  Ferronerie, 
Rue  de  la 

Philiba.     See  Philippopolis 

Philip,  of  Macedon,  builds  Philip- 
popolis, 54,  210 

Philip  II.,  King  of  Spain,  invested 
with  the  Duchy  of  Milan,  105  n. 
8  ;  his  daughter  marries  Charles 
Emanuel  of  Savoy,  no  it.  5;  re- 
builds the  Plaza  Mayor  at  Valla- 
dolid,  T40  n.  6  ;  born  at  Valladolid, 
T40  ti.  I 

Philip  III.  of  Spain,  concludes 
peace  with  England,  139  n.  4; 
account  of  the  rise  and  fall  of  the 
favourite  of,  140  n.  2 

Philip  IV.  of  Spain,  born  at  Valla- 
dolid, 139  ;/.  4 

Philipot,  John,  his  Perfect  Collection 
of  all  Knights  Batchelaurs  referred 
to,  179  n.  1 

Philippic  Fields,  battles  fought  on 
the,  153,  2  to;  compared  with 
Marlborough  Downs,  153  ;  tumuli 
in  the,  153,  154,  154  ;/.  i  ;  location 
of  the,  154  ^i-  I'  '55 

Philippine  Is.     See  Manilas 

Philippopolis,  Fihbe,  51  ;?.  4,  71 
n.  I  ;  Pindar's  party  reach,  xxix, 
xxxi,     XXXV,     54,     59 ;    by    whom 


built,  54,  55,  153,  210;  situation 
of,  55,  210;  descriptions  of,  xxxii, 
54  71.  9,  210;  battles  fought  near, 
54  n.  9  ;  plague  at,  59,  xxxii  ;  road 
from  Adrianople  to,  described, 
xxxi,  60,  210;  Turkish  name  for, 
154,  2To;  Blount's  description  of, 

.155 

Piastre,  18  n.  3,  26  n.  i,  27  n.  2 

Picardy,  138  ;  Symonds'  description 
of,  219-22  r 

Piedmont,  148  ;  under  the  Duke  of 
Savoy,  108,  109  n.  3 ;  boundary 
of,  xlv,  113,  113  n.  r,  233;  lan- 
guage of  the  people  of,  xlv,  112  n. 
2,  114,  233  ;  castles  on  the  frontiers 
of,  233,  234 

Piedmont,  Prince  of,  title  of  eldest 
son  of  the  Duke  of  Savoy,  109  n. 

4,  116  n.  I 

Pierrefitte,  Pindar's  party  pass 
through,  xlviii,  130;  distance  of, 
from  St  Denis,   130,  130  n.   6,  131 

71.  6 

Pilau,  37 

Pilchards,  Mundy  goes  to  Seville 
with,  XV,  1 ;  trade  in,  from  Corn- 
wall, xvii,  lii,  137;  price  of,  at 
Barcelona,  137  ;«.  6 

Pillars  at  Constantinople.  See 
Columns 

Pindar,  Elizabeth,  daughter  of 
Ralph  Pindar,  134  n.  8;  wife  of 
Thomas  Spike,    134  71.   8 

Pindar,  Paul,  nephew  of  Sir  Paul 
Pindar,  travels  with  the  ex-am- 
bassador, 4r,  175  7t.  2  ;  made  free 
of  the  Levant  Company,  41  71.  5 

Pindar,  Sir  Paul,  ambassador  at 
Constantinople,  10,  14  ;?.  11,  23  «. 

5,  171,  175;  succeeds  Sir  Thos. 
Glover,  175  ;  applies  for  increased 
pay,  175,  176,  178;  requests  a 
preacher  for  Constantinople,  1 75  ; 
letters  from,  to  the  Levant  Com- 
pany, 14  71.  II,  22  71.  I,  175,  176, 
177  ;  desires  to  resign  his  post  at 
Constantinople,  23  71.  5,  176;  the 
Levant  Company's  opinion  of,  176; 
increase  of  pay  granted  to,  177; 
complains  of  the  treatment  of  the 
English  by  Ahmad,  xxv,  177  ;  re- 
called by  the  Levant  Company, 
177,  178;  is  succeeded  by  Sir  John 
Eyre,  xxvi,  179;  leaves  Constan- 
tinople, xxvii,  23,  36,  41,  178  ;  his 
journey  from  Constantinople  to 
London,  xxvii-xlix,  41-136,  178; 
his  train,  xxvii,  41,  4?,  43;  hires 
waggons  for  his  servants  and  bag- 


INDEX 


271 


gage,  44  ;  his  guard  to  Adrianople, 
xxxiii ;  his  route  to  Belgrade,  45  Jt. 
6,  199  n.  I ;  posts  a  watch  round 
his  camp,  xxx,  46 ;  his  lodging- 
place  at  Adrianople,  49,  49  ;/.  3 ; 
forbids  his  followers  to  enter  Philip- 
popolis,  xxxii,  59  ;  orders  his  party 
to  dismount  and  arm,  xxxii,  61  ; 
visits  the  Viceroy  of  Rumelia  at 
Sophia,  xxxiii;  a  safe  conduct 
granted  to,  66,  67  ;  forbears  to  "com- 
mandeer" provisions,  xxxiv,  67  ; 
rewards  the  escort  from  Bela 
Palanka,  69 ;  hires  a  house  at 
Belgrade,  72 ;  visits  the  ICazi  at 
Belgrade,  xxxvi,  72  ;  hires  horses 
from  Belgrade  to  Spalato,  xxxvi ; 
hires  a  house  at  Sarajevo,  xxxviii, 
81  ;  his  route  to  Spalato,  xxxviii ; 
his  short  detention  in  quarantine, 
xxxix,  xl,  87,  88  ;  cost  of  his  hired 
house  at  Venice,  xli,  91,  92  ;  inter- 
changes visits  at  Venice,  xli,  92, 
93 ;  his  route  across  Europe,  xlii, 
98-136,  214  n.  4;  visits  the  sons 
of  the  Earl  of  Arundel,  xlii,  100; 
exchanges  visits  with  the  Duke  of 
Feria,  xliii,  106;  his  reception  at 
Turin,  xliv,  109,  no;  visits  the 
family  of  the  Duke  of  Savoy,  xliv, 
no,  no  n.  6;  meets  the  Duke  of 
Savoy  on  Mt.  Cenis,  xlv,  113; 
receives  a  present  from  the  Prince 
of  Piedmont,  115,  116;  despatches 
his  attendants  from  Lyons,  xlvi, 
119;  his  route  from  Orleans  to 
Paris,  xlvii,  123  n.  3;  his  lodging 
in  Paris,  xlvii  ;  journeys  from  Paris 
to  Calais  by  coach,  xlvii,  130  ;  is 
entertained  by  the  Archbishop  of 
Canterbury,  xlix,  136  ;  is  met  by 
his  kinsmen  at  Dover,  xlix  ;  Mundy 
takes  leave  of,  xlix,  136;  his  house 
at  Islington,  xlix  ;  the  Court  com- 
plain of  the  extravagance  of,  178  ; 
his  accounts  ''considered,"  178; 
knighted,  1 79 ;  his  house  in  Bishops- 
gate  Street  Without,  xlix,  1,  136  ti. 
3  ;  recommends  Dominico  to  the 
Levant  Company,  42  n.  5  ;  Law- 
rence Greene's  case  referred  to,  44 
n.  6  ;  recommends  Mundy  to  the 
E.  I.  Co.,  1 ;  a  copy  of  Mundy's 
early  voyages  left  with,  xlix,  Ivii, 
Iviii,  Ix,  2  ;  date  of  death  of,  136  n. 
3  ;  errors  in  the  biography  of,  178, 

.179 
Pindar,  Ralph,  meets  his  brother  at 
Dover,   xlix,    134;    father  of  Paul 
Pindar,  junior,   134  ji.  7,  175  n.  2; 


entrusted  with  his  brother's  money 
matters,  134  11.  7,  175  it.  2 

Pinkerton,  John,  his  Collection  of 
Voyages  referred  to,  146  n.  5.  See 
also  s.v.  Pococke,  Richard 

Pirates,  Turkish,  16,  171,  176 

Pirot  or  Sharkoi,  Pindar's  party 
halt  at,  xxix,  xxxiii,  66 ;  the 
Janissaries  leave  Pindar  at,  xxxiii, 
xxxiv ;  description  of,  66 ;  other 
spellings  of  the  name,  66  «.  4,  206 ; 
Des  Hayes  dines  at,  206  ;  Turks 
retire  to,  208 

Pisieux,  Pindar's  party  lodge  at, 
xlviii,  131;  abbey  at,  131  ;/.  6 

Pistacia  terebi7ithus,  i()  n.  i 

Pistole,  value  of  a,   223,  223  n,   i, 

235 

Pisuerga,  river,  140  n.  5 

Plague,  the,  at  Philippopolis,  xxxii, 
59 ;  at  Constantinople,  xxiv,  23, 
23  n.  3,  40,  192 

Plataea,  battle  of,  195  n.  4 

Po,  river,  Pindar's  party  cross  the, 
109  «.  5 

Pococke,  his  route  from  Constan- 
tinople to  Adrianople,  45  n.  6 ; 
his  Description  of  the  East  referred 
to,  see  notes  on  pp.  46,  47,  48,  49, 
60;  his  Travels  [Add.  MS.  22978) 
referred  to,  129  n.  2,  133  n.  4 

Poitiers,  116  n.  5,  128,  128  71.  4 

Poix  de  Picardy,  Pindar's  party 
dine  at,  xlviii,  131;  distance  of, 
from  Abbeville,  220 ;  Symonds' 
description  of  the  village  and 
neighbourhood  of,  220,  221 

Pola,  harbour  at,  xl,  xli,  89,  89  n.  4 

Poland,  68  n.  4 ;  Mundy's  travels 
in,  xvi,  I  ;  Bargrave's  travels  in,  215 

Poll-tax,  a,  levied  on  Christians  by 
the  Turks,  16  n.  i,  186 

Polonia.     See  Poland 

Pompey,  his  contest  with  Augustus 
Caesar,  153,  154,  154  n.  i 

Pompey's  Pillar,  Mundy's  visit  to, 
XXV,  21,  24;  situation  of,  20,  191  ; 
Lithgow's  description  of,  20  71.  4  ; 
Plobhouse's  description  of,  20  7t.  4; 
I'emains  of,  now  existing,  191  ti.  3; 
Sandys'  description  of,  197 ;  a 
lighthouse  near,  197 

Pondicherry,  Peter  Wyche,  junior, 
merchant  at,   165 

Pondormy.     See  Pont  Remy 

Pont  de  Beauvoisin,  at  the  boun- 
dary of  Savoy,  xlvi,  116  71.  5,  118, 
230  ;  Pindar  awaits  his  followers 
at,  xlvi,  118;  Symonds'  description 
of,  230 


2/2 


INDEX 


Pont  Neuf,  the,  in  Paris,  Mundy's 
description  of,  xlvii,  125 ;  other 
descriptions  of,  125  n.  5;  pump, 
clock  and  statue  on,  125,  125  n. 
5,  227 

Pont  Notre  Dame,  in  Paris,  de- 
scription of  the,  i2,s  n.  i 

Ponto  Grande.  See  Biyuk  Chekmeje 

Ponto  Piccolo.  See  Kuchuk  Chek- 
meje 

Pont  Remy,  Pindar's  party  lodge  at, 
xlviii,  131 ;  origin  of  the  name,  131 
n.  9,  22C  ;  bridge  at,  221 

Pont  St  Michel,  in  Paris,  descrip- 
tion of  the,  125  n.  I 

Porcupine,  flesh  of  the,  palatable, 
xxiv,  19,  20 

Portsmouth,  Joshua  Downing 
commissioner  at,    169 

Portugal,  Mundy  goes  to,  14,  24 

Portuguese,  the,  Mundy's  relations 
with,  in  China,  9 

Posthouse,  the,  at  Aiguebelette, 
118,  118  n.  3;  at  Bourgoin,  118, 
118  «.  7;  at  Novalese,  112,  112  «. 
-J,  233  n.  4;  at  La  Verpilliere,  xlvi, 
118  ;"at  Aiguebelle,  231 

Posting,  in  France,  138,  139 

Potarzeeke,  situation  of,  152,  154; 
plain  of,  155 

Pougues,  country  around,  woody, 
228;  Symonds'  expenses  at,  235 

PouUet,  Le  Sieur,  his  Noimelles 
Relations  du  Levant  referred  to, 
see  notes  on  pp.  46,  47,  49,  51,  52, 
54,  57,  60,  61,  62,  63,  66,  67,  69, 
70,  71,  72,  73.  74'  82,  88;  his 
route  from  Belgrade  to  Constan- 
tinople, 45  n.  6 

Pourbus,  paints  the  portrait  of 
Marie  de  Medici,  xlvii,  127,  127 
11.    4 

Pratique,  at  Leghorn,  17  ;  definition 
of,  17  n.  2;  Dallam's  account  of, 
17  n.  2  ;  Pindar's  party  granted, 
xl,  87  ;  Bargrave's  difficulty  in 
obtaining,  90  n.  i 

Preface,  Mundy's  own,  to  his  Travels, 
2-6 

Pressing  to  Death.  See  Peine 
forte  et  dure 

Priedieu,  Rue,  Symonds  lodges  in 
the,  224 

Prologh  Mountains,  the,  Pindar's 
party  cross,  xxxix,  83  n.  4,  84  n.  i, 
84  n.  7.  85  n.  2 

Propontick  Sea.  See  Marmora, 
Sea  of 

Prosor,  Pindar's  party  halt  near, 
83  n.  6,  84  n.  I 


Protestants,    on  the   banks   of  the 

Loire,  122 
Prussia,    Mundy's    travels    in,    xvi, 

Iviii,  I,  6,  9 
Pueblo   de  los  Angelos,    Mundy's 

intended  voyage  to,  6  n.  2 
Puerto     de    St     Adrian,     Mundy 

crosses  the,  li,   14 1 
Punishments      for     offenders,      in 

Turkey,  55,  56,  57 
Punta    di     Promontore,    Pindar's 

party  pass  the,  xl,  89 
Purchas  his   Pilgrimage,  referred  to, 

Ivi,  26,  43  n.  2,  51  ;z.   r,  62  n.  2 
Purchas   his   Pilgrinies,    referred    to, 

see   notes  on   pp.    27,   28,   31,   32, 

3.S.    34>    35>    36.    37>    39'    47>    55- 

56,  .^7 
Puttana.     See  Patna 
Puzentin,  King,  33  fi.  i 
Pyramid,     the     Egyptian,    in    the 

At-maidan,  33,  33  n.   2 

Qarainusal,  a  Turkish  merchantman, 

38  «•  3 
Quarantine,  at  Spalato,  rules  as  to, 
xxxix,  xl,  Iv,  86,  87  ;  John  Clarke 
released    from,    xl,    87,    91     //.    4 ; 
Bargrave's  party  in,   90  n.   i 
Quarnero,   Gulf  of,    Pindar's   party 

cross  the,  xl,   89,   89  n.    i 
Quatre  Vents,  Les,  Symonds  lodges 

at,  224 
Queens  Arms,  at  Dover,  218 
Queva,  Don  Alfonso  della,  Spanish 

ambassador  at  Venice,  93  n.  3 
Quicksilver,    Mundy    takes   a    con- 
signment of,   to  Patna,   7 
Quiervansaras.     See  KhdJis 
Quintal,  a  weight,  xix,  xix  n.  5 
Qfii-ut     cliesme,     dried     up     spring, 
Pindar's  party  pass  the  village  of, 
xxix,   67  ;  why  deserted,  67  ;  other 
spellings  of  the  name,  67  n.  4;  Des 
Hayes  halts  at,  205 

Rabenett,    Thomas,    complains    of 

Joshua  Downing,    169 
Ragusa,  73  n.  4 
Rainbozu,  the,   169 
Rajapur,  Mundy's  voyage  to,  10 
Ralegh,   Sir   Walter,  45    n.    3 ;    his 

History  of  the   IVorld  referred  to, 

Ivi,    19  n.   2,    154  n.   I 
Ram,  the,  at  Aiguebelle,    116 
Rama,  river,   Pindar's    party   follow 

the,   xxxviii,  83,   83  n.   4,   83  n.  5 
Rama,  village,  the  Rama  and  Narenta 

join  at,  83,  83  11.  4 


INDEX 


273 


Ramasser,  meaning  of  the  term,  114 

71.    I 

Rascia  (Novibazar),  78  n.    i 
Rashan    or  Razan,   Pindar's  party 

lodge  in  a  khan  at,  xxix,  xxxiv,  70; 

Des  Hayes  halts  at,  204 
Rastell,      Thomas,      President      of 

Surat,  7 
Ravaillac,  Francois,  murders  Henri 

IV.,  129,  129  n.  1 
Rawlinson    MS.    A.    315,    the    only 

complete  copy  of  Mundy's  Travels, 

Ivii,  Ix  ;  illustrations  in,  Ix,  4  ??.  i  ; 

maps  in,  Ix,  6  «.  i  ;  dates  covered 

by,  10  n.  3 
Rand.    MS.    A.    414    (Sir    Erasmus 

Harby's  MS.),  160  n.  5,  163  n.  5 
Rawl.   MS.  C.    799.     See   Bargrave, 

Robert 
Razvl.  MS.  D.  1 20  (  Travels  in  1 648-9) , 

referred  to,  see  notes  on  pp.  91,  95, 

96,    99,    102,    104,    107,    119,    120, 

122,    129,    131,   133,    134,    138 
Rawl.  MS.  D.    197.     See  Engletield, 

Sir  Francis 
Rawl.  MS.  D.  207  {Passage  over  the 

Alpes),  referred  to,  in  w.  4, 112  n.  2, 

113  «.  2 
Rawl.  MS.  D.  1285  (Travels'm  1633), 

referred  to,  129  n.  i 
Rawl.  MS.  D.  1785.     See  Abdy,  Sir 

Thomas 
Ravirlinson,  Thomas,  becomes  pos- 
sessor of  the  Mundy  MS.,  Ixiii 
R.  B.,  his  Epitome  of  all  the  Lives  of 

the  Kings  of  France^  &c.    referred 

to,  125  «.  5,  129  n.  2 
Reichs  Dollar,  27 
Rhaetian  Alps,  153  n.  i 
Rhodes,  Blount's  Voyage  to,   146 
Rhodope,    mountains,    xxxi,    xxxii, 

61    n.   9;    connection  of  the,   with 

Orpheus,  152,  152  n.  5,  209;  Des 

Hayes'  remarks  on  the,  209 
Rhone,   river,   irS  n.  4;  at  Lyons, 

119   n.   2,    119   71.    3,    229;    w^ater 

mills  on  the,   xlvi,    119,  119  n.   3, 

149  ;  rapidity  of  the,  229 
Rialto,  Ponte  di,  xlii,  28,  91,  97,  97 

n.    5,    189;    when   built,   91   «.    2; 

description  of,  91  n.  2 
Rialton  Manor,  the  Mundys  of,  xiv, 

XV 

Ricardo,  an    Italian,  joins  Pindar's 

train  at  Padua,    loi 
Richelieu,     Cardinal,     Des     Hayes 

allied    with    the   enemies    of,    199 

n.    1 ;    palace    of,    224 ;    besieges 

Montmelian,  230 
Roanne,  Pindar's  party  post  to,  from 


Lyons,  120;  description  of,  120 
n.  I,  120  n.  2,  228  ;  Pindar  over- 
takes his  attendants  at,  xlvi,  120; 
cost  of  boat-hire  from,  to  Orleans, 
120,  120  n.  3,  228  ;  first  navigable 
town  on  the  Loire,  120  n,  2 ; 
Pindar's  party  take  a  boat  from,  to 
Orleans,  xlvi,  122;  boats  hired 
from,  sold  at  Orleans,  123,  228 

Robbers,  Pindar's  precautions  a- 
gainst,  xxxii;  infest  the  country 
between  Philippopolis  and  Sophia, 
61  ;  travellers,  how  warned  of,  61, 
152,  209;  among  the  Balkan  Mts., 
61  n.  3,  151,  209;  numerous, 
between  Ikhtiman  and  Sophia,  62  ; 
on  the  road  between  Sophia  and 
Nissa,  xxxiii,  66,  205,  206 ;  near 
Batotschina,  71  it.  i  ;  punished  by 
staking,  xxxii,  xxxv,  xxxvi,  71,  72, 
206  ;  near  Valjevo,  xxxvi,  78,  78 
It.  5,  149;  among  the  Prologh  Mts., 
xxxix,  84 

Robbin,  a  cook,  member  of  Pindar's 
train,  43 

Robson,  Charles,  his  News  from 
Aleppo  referred  to,  17  n.  3,  19 
n.  2 

Rochester,  xlix,   135 

Roe,  Sir  Thomas,  ambassador  at 
Constantinople,  i\  n.  11,  41  «.  3, 
163;  Lawrence  Greene's  case  re- 
ferred to,  44  n.  6 ;  succeeds  Sir 
John  Eyre,    181 

Roi,  Rue  de,  Symonds  lodges  in,  223 

Rokeby,  Colonel,  Symonds  enter- 
tains his  captains,   223 

Romanja  Planina,  Pindar's  party 
ascend  the,  xxxvii,  80 ;  other  spell- 
ings of  the  name,  80  n.  4 

Rome,  despoiled  to  adorn  Constanti- 
nople, 192 

Rosa  Rossa,  the,  at  Turin,  235 

Roshneah.     See  Rashan 

Rouen,  Mundy's  first  visit  to,  xiii, 
XV,  xvii,  xviii,  13,  24;  description 
of,  xviii,  xix,  xx ;  Mundy's  second 
visit  to,  116  n.  5;  situation  of, 
xviii ;  bore  at,  xviii,  xix  ;  great  bell 
at,  xix 

Roumania,  210;  language  of,  207; 
how  separated  from  Servia,  209 

Rovigno,  146  n.  i,  147  n.  i ;  Pindar's 
party  land  at,  xli,  8q  ;  governor  of, 
entertains  Pindar,  xli,  xli  7t.  i,  89; 
situation  and  description  of,  147  ; 
under  the  government  of  Venice, 

H7 
Royall  Mary,    the,    Mundy    sails   to 
England  in,  xvi,  Ivii,  8,   10 


M. 


274 


INDEX 


Royall  Merchant,  the,  Mundy  sails  to 
Constantinople  in,  xv,  xxiii,  liii, 
14,  160,  174;  passengers  in  the, 
xxiii;  sailing  orders  of,  14  n.  10, 
166-168;  owned  by  Sir  Morris 
Abbot,  15  71.  r,  166;  freight  for 
goods  on,  167  ;  goods  to  be  carried 
by,  167;  charter-party  of,  167; 
Joshua  Downing  commands,  167, 
168;  goods  prohibited  on,  167; 
measures  taken  for  the  protection 
of,   168 

Rumelia,  61  n.  i,  62  n.  1 ;  Viceroy 
of,  xxxiii,  62, ,62  ti.  2,  63,  152,  208, 
211 ;  Adrianople  under  the  govern- 
ment of,  211 

Rusko  Blato,  possibly  Mundy's 
"great  Lake,"  xxxix,  84  n.  7 

Russia,  191  ;  Mundy's  travels  in, 
xvi,  I,  6,  9,  ir;  Richard  Wyche, 
senior,  trades  to,  161;  Des  Hayes' 
mission  to,  199  n.  2 

Ryalls,  27,   137  n.  6 

Sacra    Porta.     See   Constantinople, 

harbour  at 
S.    Adrian,  grotto  of,   li,   141,    141 

n.  6,   142,   142  7Z.   I 
S.  Adrian,  Mts.  of,  H,  141,  142  n.  i 
S.    Ambrosio,    Symonds    halts    at, 

233  ;   description  of,  233 
S.  Andrea,  castle,  situation  of,  90  «.  2 
S.  Andrea,  Fort,  at  entrance  to  the 

lagoons  of  Venice,  89  «.  8,  90  ;?.  2 
S.  Andrea  del  Lido,  Pindar's  party 

enter  Venice  by,  xli,  89,  89  n.  8 
S.  Aubin-sur-Loire,  Pindar's  party 

pass,  xlvi,  120,  228;?.  5 
S.  Benoit,  Pindar's  party  pass,  122, 

122  n.  3 
St  Brice,  Pindar's  party  pass  through, 

xlviii,  131,  131  71.  6;  Du  Verdier's 

name  for,  131  w.  i 
St  Christopher's,  in  Paris,  Symonds 

lodges  at,  223 
St  Cloud,  Symonds'  visit  to,  224 
St  Columb  Minor,  the  Mundys  of, 

xiv,  XV 
St     Denis,     Pindar's     party     pass 

through,    xlviii,    130,    131    «.    6; 

Heylyn's  description  of,  130  7i.  5  ; 

abbey  at,  222  ;  Symonds  visits,  224 
St   Denis,  Rue,  in  Paris,    129  «.  2, 

226 
St  Dunstans-in-the-East, Richard 

Wyche  buried  in,  159;  monument 

to    Richard  Wyche  in,    159;   Lady 

Harby  buried  in,   163,   164 
St  Germain,  Fauxbourg,  224,  225 
St  Germain,  palace,  224 


St  Gluvias,  no  mention  of  Richard 

Mundy  in  the  registers  of,  xiv 
St  Helena,  L,  Mundy's  arrival  at,  9 
St  Helier,  capital  of  Jersey,  144,  144 

«•  3 

St  Innocents,  in  Paris,  bones  in  the 
churchyard  of,  xlvii,  xlviii,  129, 
129  7z.  2,  226;  reported  quality  of 
the  earth  in  the  yard  of,  129,  129 
7Z.  3  ;  Symonds'  description  of,  226; 
the  burying-place  of  strangers,  226 

St  Jacque,  Rue  de,  Symonds  lodges 
in,  223 

St  James's  Park,  compared  with 
the  Seraglio  at  Constantinople,  28, 
r88  ;  compared  with  the  gardens  of 
the  Louvre,  128  «.  i 

St  Jean  de  Maurienne,  Pindar's 
party  lodge  at,  115  ;  description  of, 
xiv,  115  «.  6;  a  Bishop's  See  at, 
116,  231;  Mundy's  commendation 
of,  xiv,  117;  Symonds'  description 
of,  231,  232 

St  John  Delio.  See  S.  Andrea  del 
Lido 

St  John  d'Ulloa,  Mundy's  intended 
voyage  to,  6 ;  situation  of,  6  w.  2 

St  Lawrence.     See  Madagascar 

St  Louis,  picture  of,  in  the  Louvre, 
225 

St  Lucas.  See  Sanlucar  de  Barra- 
meda 

St  Malo,  Mundy's  visit  to,  xvi,  lii, 
143,  144,  145  ;  Mundy's  description 
of,  143;  tide  at,  143,  143  7Z.  8,  143 
7Z.  9 ;  how  guarded,  lii,  143,  143 
7t.  10,  144  n.  I  ;  Mundy  returns  to, 

I44>  145 
St  Margaret's  Church,  Lothbury, 

Sir  Hugh  Wyche  buried  in,  158 
S.    Maria,  a  bell  in  the  Giralda  at 

Seville,  xxi,   xxi  7t.  2 
St    Mark's,    square    and    tower,    at 

Venice,  xli,  90,   91,  97,  97  «.   2 
St  Martin,  Rue  de,  in  Paris,  Pindar's 

party  lodge  in  the,   xlvii,  124.  124 

n.  8 
St  Mary  Port,    14  «.   i 
St  Michael  Arckangell.     See  Arch- 
angel 
St   Michel,   Pindar's  party  dine  at, 

xiv,    115;  description  of,  115  71.  5, 

232 
S.  Nicolo,  Fort,  at  entrance  to  the 

lagoons  of  Venice,  89  7i.  8,  90  7i.  2 
St  Pablo,  Dominican  convent  of,  at 

Valladolid,    140   7t.   3  ;    rebuilt   by 

Torquemada,    140    «.    3 ;    restored 

by  the  Duke  of  Lerma,    140,    140 

71.    3 


INDEX 


275 


S.  Pietro  da  Castello,  at  the  entrance 
to  the  lagoons  of  Venice,  90  n.  1 

S.  Romano,  Military  Gate,  the 
Turks  enter  Constantinople  by  the, 

193  71.  1 

St  Sebastian,  Mundy  arrives  at,  1, 
li,  139,  139  n.  3,  145;  Mundy 
returns  to,  li,  141  ;  route  from,  to 
Victoria  described,  141,  142,  142 
n.   I 

St  Sophia,  mosque  of,  at  Con- 
stantinople, 29,  30,  35,  195;  de- 
scription of,  35  n.  3,  185,  185  «.  I, 
189,  194;  view  of  Constantinople 
from,  191 ;  length  and  height  of, 
194 

St  Vincent,  Cape,  xxiii,  16 

Sdis,  a  groom,  43  n.  3 

Salisbury,  situation  of,  compared 
with  Beauvais,   221 

Salisbury,  Cadwallader,  the  Levant 
Company's  chaplain  at  Constanti- 
nople, 23  71.  4 

Salona,  85  n.  4;  siege  of,  147  71.  3  ; 
rebuilt,  147  «.  3 

Salt,  brought  to  Belgrade,  xxxv,  75; 
whence  extracted,  75  «.  i 

Salter,  Robert,  escorts  Pindar  from 
Constantinople,  45,  47,  47  «.  i  ; 
made  free  of  the  Levant  Company, 
45  «.  5  ;    owner  of  the  Marga7'et, 

45  «•  5 
Salter,  William,  Consul  at  Smyrna, 

45  n.  5,  45  «.  6 
Saltingstall,       Elizabeth,      marries 

Richard  Wyche,  senior,    158,    159 
Saltingstall,     Sir     Richard,     Lord 

Mayor    of    London,    his    daughter 

marries    Richard    Wyche,    senior, 

158,   159 
Saltpetre,  8 

Sa7narita7t,  the,  of  Dartmouth,  42  «.  2 
Samos,   Blount's  description  of,  157 

«.  4 
Sancerre,    situation    of,    121,     122, 

122  w.  I  ;  Protestant  stronghold  at, 

xlvi,  121,  228;  description  of,  121 

71.   3 

Sancy,  Baron  de,  French  ambassador 
at  Constantinople,  43  ^-  i  ;  im- 
prisonment of,   43  7t.    I 

Sanderson,  John,  Voyage  of.  See 
Purchas  His  Pilgri?nes 

Sandys,  Edwin,  Archbishop  of  York, 
father  of  George  Sandys,  192  n.  3 

Sandys,  George,  his  l^avels  referred 
to,  see  notes  on  pp.  3,  18,  20,  21, 
26,  30,  31,  32,  35,  38,  56,  87,  102; 
Mundy  quotes  from  his  work,  Ivi, 
lix,   26,    192-198;   full  title  of  his 


T7-aveh,  192  «.  3;  life  and  works  of, 

192  71.   3 

Sanita,  Pindar's  certificate  of  health 
inspected  by  the,  90  ;  officer  of  the, 
at  Venice,  grants  a  pass  to  Pindar, 
90 

Sanlucar  de  Barrameda,  Mundy 
goes  as  cabin-boy  to,  14,  24 ; 
situation  of,  xvii,  14  «.  i  ;  Mundy 
lives  at,  with  Mr  Parker,  xv,  xvii, 
xviii,  XX  ;  Duke  of  Medina  Sidonia 
dies  at,  xx 

Saone,  river,  at  Lyons,  xlvi,  119, 
119  7t.  2,   229 

Sa?-a2,    148  ft.  3 

Sarajevo,  83  7t.  5 ;  Pindar's  party 
reach,  xxxvii,  81  ;  descriptions  of, 
xxxviii,  81,  81  71.  3,  81  7t.  4,  82  «.  r, 
82  «.  3  ;  people  of,  xxxviii,  Iv,  81, 
148;  distance  of,  from  Belgrade, 
81  n.  2;  castle  at,  xxxviii,  81,  81 
71.  5,  148  ;  other  names  for,  81  «.  2  ; 
Blount's  remarks  on,  81  «.  2,  146, 
148;  mosques  at,  xxxviii,  82  ;  float- 
ing mills  at,  xxxviii,  82,  82  7i.  3  ; 
horses  hired  at,  xxxvii,  82  ;  descrip- 
tion of  the  country  beyond,  xxxvii, 
82 ;  railway  from,  to  Mostar, 
xxxviii,  83  «.  4 ;  derivation  of  the 
name,  148  n.  3;  unpopularity  of 
Europeans  at,  xxxvii,  81  ;  time 
occupied  in  the  journey  from  Bel- 
grade to,  xxxvii ;  difficulty  of  the 
journey  from,  to  Spalato,  xli 

Sardica.     See  Sophia 

Sardinia,    15  ;z.  7 

Saros,   rock-salt  obtained   from,   75 

7i.     I 

Save,  river,  68  «.  4,  73,  74,  74  7z.  i, 
78  w.  4,  80,  149,  200;  flows  un- 
mingled  with  the  Danube,  xxxv, 
150,    150  71.    2 

Savoy,  map  of,  in  Mundy's  MS., 
6  71.  I,  112  7z.  2,  115  7z.  1,  115  «.  6, 
118  71.  2  ;  ambassador  from,  to 
Venice,  xli,  93  ;  hostilities  between 
Spain  and,  no  7t.  5  ;  boundary  of, 
xliv,  xlv,  113,  113  7t.  I,  1x6  71.  5, 
118,  230,233;  Symonds' travels-in, 
217,  230-233  ;  bishoprics  in,  233 

Savoy,  Duke  of,  his  family,  xliv ; 
his  ambassador  at  Venice,  93  «.  4  ; 
extent  of  his  territories,  108,  108 
7t.  5  ;  absent  from  Turin  on  Pindar's 
arrival,  109 ;  meets  Pindar  on  Mt. 
Cenis,  xlv,  113;  his  heir,  xlv; 
see  also  s.  v.  Charles  Emanuel. 

Savoyards,  language  of  the,  114, 
114  71.  2,  115,  115  «.  I,  230,  231, 
233  ;  the,  suffer  from  goitre,  1 1 7  «.  5 


2/6 


INDEX 


Scanderoon,  146  n.  i  ;  Mundy 
touches  at,  15  n.  4,  16,  24,  166, 
167,  174;  the  seaport  of  Aleppo, 
xxiv,  19 ;  unhealthiness  of,  xxiv, 
19;  situation  of,  xxiv,  19;  wild 
beasts  at,  19;  Levant  Company's 
representative  at,  19  n.  i  ;  Dallam's 
description  of,  19  «.  1;  Robson's 
description  of,  19  «.  2  ;  location  of 
battlefields  near,  19  n.  2 

Scio,  an  English  Consul  at,  i6  «.  4, 
44  71.  6 ;  Richard  Wyche  trades  to, 
161;  Edward  Wyche  meets  Lady 
Wyche  at,  164 ;  the  Royall 
Merchant  bound  to,  v(>,  166,  167, 
168 

Sclavonia,   146,   147  n.  4 

Scroles,  Henry,  nephew  of  Joshua 
Downing,   1 70 

Scroles,  Jasper,  nephew  of  Joshua 
Downing,    170 

Scroles,  Mrs,  sister  of  Joshua 
Downing,   170 

Scutari,  30,  65  n.  i,  191,  194 ; 
situation  of,    197;  tower  at,   197 

Seale,  Humphrey,  beadle  to  the 
Levant  Company,   42  n.   4 

Seale,  Mr,  travels  in  Pindar's  train,  42 

Seine,  river,  bore  at  the  mouth  of 
the,  xviii,  xix ;  bridges  over  the,  at 
Paris,  xlvii,  124,  125,  125  n.  5 

Selibrea,  Selymbria.     See  Silivri 

Selim  L,  mosque  of,  35  n.  4 ;  his 
treasure  kept  in  the  Seven  Towers, 
185  ;  defeat  of,  by  Bayazld  H.,  212 

Selim  IL,  185;  injures  the  Column 
of  Serpents,   33  11.    i 

Semaroromo  Blato,  probably 
Mundy's  "great  lake,"  xxxix,  84 
n.   7 

Semendria,  201 

Sept  Voies,  Rue  de,  Symonds 
lodges  in  the,  223 

Sequins,  18  w.  3,  166,  177,  186; 
value  of,  26  n.  2,  27  ;  Venetian, 
value  of,   119  n.  6 

Seraglios,  at  Constantinople,  25,  26, 
27,  28,  29,  30,  35,  35  71.  5,  39  11.  I, 
184,  187,  188,  189,  194,  197,  198; 
at  Adrianople,  xxx,  49,  49  n.  4, 
156,   211 

Serio,  river,  106,   106  k.  2 

Serpents,  infest  Constantinople,  33 
71.  I  ;  Column  of,  33,  33  «.  i,  185 

Servia,  68  «.  4,  69  71.  5,  201  ; 
Belgrade  on  the  confines  of,  199  ; 
the  Nissava  separates  Bulgaria 
from,  204 ;  Christians  in,  205  ; 
cheapness  of  provisions  in,  205 ; 
compared  with  Bulgaria,  206 


Servians  (Bulgarians),  Mundy's  de- 
scription of,  Iv 

Sestos,  castle,  on  the  European  side 
of  the  Dardanelles,  157,  157  n.  2, 
197,   198 

Seven  Towers,  the,  at  Constanti- 
nople, 27,29,31,  184, 189;  situation 
of,  31  «.  2  ;  various  descriptions  of, 
31  n.  2,  184,  187;  Baron  de  Sancy 
imprisoned  in,  43  «.  t ;  treasure 
guarded  in,   184,    185 

Seville,  Mundy's  visits  to,  xviii,  14, 
24,  97  n.  4,  145  ;  Mundy  learns 
Spanish  in,  xviii,  14  ;  Giralda  at, 
XX,  97,  137  «.  5  ;  Mundy  goes  to, 
with  pilchards,  xiii,  xv,  1,  137  ; 
Mundy  resides  with  Mr  Weaver  at, 
XV ;  Mundy's  description  of,  xx-xxii ; 
fertility  of  the  surroundings  of,  xxii ; 
ceremony  at  the  coming  of  the  King 
of  Spain  into,  xxii 

Shah  'Abbas,  makes  peace  with 
Turkey,  65  ;  his  envoy,  65  it.    i 

Shdhi,  a  coin,  76  11.   4 

Shah  Jahan,  emperor,  4  «.  3  ;  his 
entry  into  Agra,  8 ;  his  garden,  8 

Shakespeare,  William,  his  Winter's 
Tale  referred  to,  18  71.  2 

Shamberly.     See  Chambery 

Sharkoi.     See  Pirot 

Shawgurre,  Mundy's  journey  from 
Agra  to,   7 

Sherbet,  manufacture  of,  63,  65  71.  3 

Shirley,  Sir  Thomas,  imprisoned  by 
the  Turks,  50  n.  2 

Sian,  Pindar's  party  dine  at,  xliv, 
109;  distance  of,  from  Turin,   109 

71.     I 

Sicily,    16,   17,   17  71.  3 

Sigismund  HL,  of  Poland,  intrigues 
with  Caspar  Gratiani,  51  7t.  3;  his 
forces  defeated  at  Jassy,  51  «■  3 

Silivri,  34  «.  i,  73  «.  4;  road  from 
Constantinople  to,  46  7t.  2  ;  Pindar's 
party  encamp  near,  xxviii,  xxx,  47; 
descriptions  of,  47  71.  3,  156,  212, 
213;  other  spellings  of  the  name, 
47  71.  3,  156  ;  antiquity  of,  xxx, 
2r3,   215 

Silver  Lion,  the,  at  Calais,  133 
n.  4 

Silver  mines,  on  the  way  to  Sarajevo, 
80 

Simois,  river,  157  7t.  3 

Sinope,    ravaged    by    Cossacks,    63 

71.     I 

Sipahi  (spahee),  sepoy,  68  «.  3,  203, 
204;  a  guard  of,  escort  Pindar, 
xxxiii,  67  ;  of  whom  composed,  67 
71.  I  ;  at  Adrianople,  211 


INDEX 


277 


Sittingbourne,  Pindar's  party  reach, 
xlix,  135;  Symonds  passes  tlarough, 
218 

Skinners'  Company,  connection  of 
the  Wyche  family  with,  158,  159 

Slade,  Captain  James,  commander  of 
the  Koyall  Mary,  8,  10 

Slomie  AISS.  referred  to,  811,  see 
Bell,  Richard;  2142,  see  notes  on 
PP-  17.  93>  99.  104>  ^25,  127,  128, 
1321  153;  4217)  see  notes  on 
pp.  114,  116,  118;  4223,  see  218 
71.  5 

Smith,  John,  escorts  Pindar  from 
Constantinople,  45,  46 

Smithfield,  compared  with  the 
At-maidan,    195 

Smolensk,  Mundy's  intended  journey 
to,  6 

Smyrna,  xxv,  16,  44  «.  6,  45  n.  5, 
161,  172,  173 

Smyth,  his  Sailors  Word  Book  re- 
ferred to,    136  71.    2 

Soave,  10 1  71.  4 

Sol,  soldi,  value  of,  92  «.  r,  100  7i.  4, 
119,  119  71.  8,  123,  235 

Somerset  House,  wills  at,  referred 
to,  158  n.  4,  160  71.  t,  162  7t.  2, 
163  71.  3,  164  71.  4,    170  71.   I,  179 

7t.    5,    182  71.    2 

Somme,  river,  131  w.  9,  138  «.  4 
Soncino,  Pindar's  party  pass,  xliii, 
105  ;  under  Spanish  rule,  xliii,  105, 

105  71.  6 

Sophia,  Sofia,  65,  71  w.  i;  Pindar's 
party  reach,  xxix,  62  ;  descriptions 
of,  xxxiii,  62  «.  I,  151,  152,  206, 
207,  208;  other  names  for,  62  71.  i, 
■207 ;  situation  of,  xxxii,  63,  207, 
209  ;  description  of  the  country  from, 
to  Nissa,  66,  66  «.  2,  206,  208 ; 
Christian  villages  in  the  neighbour- 
hood of,  206  ;  climate  of,  207,  208  ; 
residence  of  the  Viceroy  of  Rumelia, 
xxxiii,  208 ;  country  between 
Philippopolis  and,  infested  by 
robbers,  xxxii,  209 

Sorbonne,  College,  224 

South  Seas,  6 ;  places  included  in 
the  term,    5  71.   i 

Spain,  trade  between  Cornwall  and, 
xvii;  Mundy's  travels  in,  1,  li,  Ixi, 
I ;  ambassador  from,  to  Venice, 
xli,  93  ;  territory  in  Italy,  under  the 
rule  of,  105,  105  71.  6;  hostilities 
between  Savoy  and,  i  ro  71.  5  ; 
peace  concluded  between  England 
and,  139  71.  4 

Spalato,  49  11.  4,  84  71.  I,  85  71.  5, 
91  71.  4,  92  71.  3;  pratique  observed 


at,  1 7  «.  2  ;  cost  of  horse-hire  from 
Sarajevo  to,  xxxvii,  82 ;  situation 
of,  82  71.  4,  86,  86  71.  3,  147;  route 
from  Sarajevo  to,  xxxviii,  83  n.  4; 
Mundy's  route  from,  to  Turin,  84 
7t.  4,  136;  cultivation  of  the  country 
surrounding,  xl,  86 ;  lazaretto  at, 
xxxix,  xl,  86 ;  derivation  of  the 
name,  86  71.  3 ;  ruins  of  castles  at, 
86,  86  71.  4;  Count  of,  entertains 
Pindar,  xl,  88 ;  fortification  of,  88, 
148;  under  the  Venetians,  147; 
uselessness  of  the  harbour  at,  147, 
148 ;  tribute  paid  to  the  Turks  at, 

147,    147  71.   4 

Spanish  language,  Mundy  learns 
the,  at  Seville,    14 

Spanyi,  his  painting  of  Clissa,  85  7t.  4 

Spike  family,  the,  connected  with 
the  Pindars,   134  «.  8 

Spike,  Lawrence,  travels  in  Pindar's 
train,  42  ;  recommended  as  a  purser, 
42  71.  I ;  his  connection  with  Pindar, 
134  7t.  8 

Spike,  Thomas,  meets  Pindar  at 
Dover,  xlix,  134,  134  «.  8  ;  husband 
of  Elizabeth  Pindar,  134  7t.  8 

Spread  Eagle,  the,  at  Orzi  Vecchi, 
xliii,  105,  105  71.  I 

Srebreniza,  site  of  the  ancient  silver 
mines,  xxxvii,  80  71.  3 

Staking,  a  punishment  for  robbers, 
xxxii,  XXXV,  xxxvi,  55,  71,  71  «.  7, 
206;  description  of,  Iv,  Iviii,  55; 
illustration  of,  55,  58;  various 
accounts  of,  55  ti.  4 

Stamboul.     See  Constantinople 

Stamo,  a  Greek,  member  of  Pindar's 
train,  44;  left  at  Adrianople,  xxx, 
xxxi,  50 

Stampes,  Mr,  his  journey  to  Con- 
stantinople,   73  71.   4 

Standards,  Turkish,  ^^,  64  ;  origin  of 
the,  of  the  seven  Horse-tails,  64  «.  i 

Staple,  Richard,  emissary  to  Murad 
III.,  171 

State  Papei's,  Foreig7i  Archives,  re- 
ferred to,  see  notes  on  pp.  xxiii, 
xxvii,  15,  22,  41,  42,  44,  45,  92,  93, 
100,  106,  108,  134,  138,  141,  159, 
163,  164,  166,  175,  176,  177,  178, 
180,  181 

Stow,  John,  his  Su7-vey  of  Lo7tdon 
referred  to,  59  71.   i,    159  «.   4 

Stowe  AfSS.,  180  referred  to,  73  «.  4; 
916  referred  to,  132  n.  8,  133  n.  5 

Straights,  the.  See  Mediterranean 
Sea,   the 

Strasburg,  Des  Hayes  travels  to 
Belgrade  by  way  of,  214  «.  4 


2/8 


INDEX 


Strawberries,  abundance  of,  on  the 
way  to  Sarajevo,  xxxvii,  79 

Stringar,  Edward,  escorts  Pindar 
from  Constantinople,  44 ;  treasurer 
to  the  Levant  Company  at  Con- 
stantinople, 44  n.   I 

Stromboli,  I.  and  Mt.,  Mundy's 
description  of,  xxiv,  17,  18;  Lith- 
gow's  description  of,  17  n.  3; 
Robson's  description  of,  17  11.  3; 
Bell's  description  of,   17  n.  3 

Struys,  John,  his  Voyages  and  Travels 
quoted,  17  «.  i,  18  ;?.  3,  20  n.  2 

Styria,  68  n.  4 

SuQuraz,  a  Venetian  castle,  85,  85 
n.   5  ;  situation  of,  85  «.  5 

Sulaiman,  Sultan,  xxx,  31  n,  i,  35 
11.  4,  35  n.  5,  48  n.  3,  62  n.  1 ;  the 
Magnificent,  his  altercation  with 
Mustafa  Pasha,  52;  his  conquests 
in  Hungary,  52,  52  «.  i,  149,  I49 
n.  4,  201 ;  his  mosque  at  Adrianople, 
156,  211;  enlarges  the  aqueduct  at 
Constantinople,  184,  195;  mosque 
of,  at  Constantinople,  189 

Sully,  Pindar's  party  pass,  122; 
description  of,   122  n.  2 

Sultans  of  Turkey.  See  Grand 
Signior 

Sumatra,  5  ;  Mundy's  voyage  to,  i,  9 

Silinpdreh,  red  emery  stone,  35  ;/.  2 

Surat,  Mundy's  voyage  to,  xvi,  7, 
10;  events  at,  during  Mundy's  stay, 
7 ;  Mundy's  journey  from  Agra  to, 
8;  Mundy's  departure  from,  8; 
Bernard  Wyche  a  merchant  at, 
165;  Nathaniel  Wyche,  President 
of,  dies  at,  liv,    165 

Surendeh,  a  sage,   33  n.   i 

Susa,   1 1 2  n.  2 

Swabia,  201 

Swally,  the  "  Mareene "  at,  8 

Sw^anley,  Captain  Richard,  com- 
mander of  the  yonah,   7 

Sweden,  Des  Hayes'  mission  to,  199 
n.  2 

Swinging,  in  Turkey,  how  practised, 
58,  59;  illustration  of,  58 

Switzers,  appointed  as  a  body-guard 
for  Pindar,  no;  origin  of,  ixo 
11.    I 

Syces,  horsekeepers,  grooms,  43 

Symes,  Randolph  (or  Randall), 
accompanies  Pindar  to  Vicenza, 
xlii,  100,  loi;  employed  by  the 
Levant  Company,   xlii,    100  n.  5 

Symonds,  Anna,  mother  of  Richard 
Symonds,  218  «.  5 

Symonds,  Anne,  sister  of  Richard 
Symonds,  218  «.  5 


Symonds,  Edward  (or  Edmund;, 
father  of  Richard  Symonds,  216 
n.   I,   218  «.   5 

Symonds,  Edward,  brother  of 
Richard  Symonds,  218  n.  5 

Symonds,  John,  brother  of  Richard 
Symonds,  218  n.  5 

Symonds,  Richard,  his  Note-books 
{Hurl.  MSS.  943  and  1278)  re- 
ferred to,  see  notes  on  pp.  105,  109, 
no.  III,  112,  113,  114,  115,  116, 
117,  118,  119,  120,  121,  127,  129, 
130,  131,  132,  134,  135;  quotations 
from  his  note-lDOoks,  217-235; 
contents  of  his  note-books,  217 
ti.  i;  birth  and  parentage  of,  217 
11.  I  ;  his  only  published  MS.,  217 
n.  I ;  his  notes  of  expenses  during 
his  travels,  217,  218,  222,  223,  224, 
235 

Talismans,  in  Constantinople,  33 
n.  I,  34  n.  2,  35  n.  2 

Tarare,  Pindar's  train  post  to,  xlvi, 
119;  description  of,  119  71.  7,  229; 
cost  of  horse  hire  from  Lyons  to, 
119,  119  ??.  8;  Symonds'  remarks 
on  the  country  between  Roanne 
and,   229 

Tatar  Bazarjik,  Pindar's  party  dine 
at,  xxix,  xxxii,  60 ;  Poullet's  de- 
scription of,  60  n.  4  ;  other  spell- 
ings of  the  name,  60  n.  4 ;  Des 
Hayes'  description  of,  209  ;  Khan 
at,   209 

Tdilk-Bazd?-,  poultry-market,   35  11.  2 

Taurunum.     See  Belgrade 

Taurus,   mountain,    19  ;^.  2 

Tavernier,  J.  B.,  his  Collections  of 
Travels  referred  to,  35  n.  5,  36 
ti.   I,    64  n.    I 

Tavira,  Mundy  visits,  xxii,  14,  24; 
situation  of,  xxii  ;/.  5,    14  n.  5 

Tayfoo,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Canton 
river,    9,   11 

Taylor,  Major  John,  his  Travels 
from  England  to  India  referred  to, 
60  n.  5,  66  n.  4,  69  n.  2,  99  w.  3, 
loi  n.  3 

Tea,  Thomas  Garraway  the  first  re- 
tailer of,    14   n.  \\ 

Teodora,  a  Russian,  a  member  of 
Pindar's  train,  43 ;  acts  as  inter- 
preter,  78,    78  n.   1 

Terjinnan,  interpreter,  42  n.  5 

Teutamos,  Eumenes  taken  by,  154 
n.  I 

Thames,  river,  xlix 

Thebes,   188 

Theiss,  river,  75  n.  3 


INDEX 


279 


Theobalds,  Captain  Henry,  visits 
Pindar  at  Venice,  92 ;  reprieved 
prisoners   sent  to,    as   soldiers,   92 

»•   5 

Theodosius,  Emperor,  32  n.  i,  35 
;/.  2,  48  «.  3  ;  sets  up  a  column  at 
Constantinople,  195,  195  n.  3 

Thermopylae,  Mundy's  idea  of  its 
situation,  61  n.  6;  located  by 
Blount,    152,    152   71.   6,   153,    154 

71.     I 

Thessaly,   146,   151,   152,   152  w.  5, 

154  "■   I 
Thevenot,  Monsieur  de,  his  T7-avels 
i7tto  the    Levant    referred    to,    see 
notes  on  pp.  21,  31,  32,  33,  37,  38, 

39»  52>  53>  56,  57.  58.  81 
Thieves.     See  Robbers 
Thomas-Francis,    Prince    of    Ca- 

rignan,  son  of  the  Duke  of  Savoy, 

iro  71.  6 
Thorneton,    Captain,    Englishman, 

residing  at  Abbeville,   132 
Thou  [tugh),  64  71.  I 
Thrace,    146,    152,    152  ;z.  5,    155, 

183,   187,  213 
Three    Blackamoors,    the,    at   Ar- 

pajon  (Chatres),   xlvii,    124 
Three    Flower   de   Luces,  the,  at 

Avigliana,  xliv,    in;  at  Bramant, 

115  ;  at  Lyons,  119  ;  at  Toury,  123 
Three  Kings,  the,  at  Lanslebourg, 

xlv,   114;  at  Lyons,   119  7i.   5;    at 

Milan,    xliii,    106,     106    71.    4;    at 

Novara,  108,  108  7i.  3  ;  at  Vicenza, 

xlii,    loi 
Three      Mores     Heads,     the,     in 

Paris,    223 
Three  Pigeons,  the,  at  Bussoleno, 

xliv,    112 
Tiberiopolis.     See  Sarajevo 
Tiberius    Caesar,   rebuilds  Salona, 

147  71.  3 
Ticino,    river,     107    71.    2  ;    Pindar's 

party  cross  the,  xliv,    108 
Tierney,    M.   A.,    his    History  a7id 

A7itiquities  of  A7-U7idel  referred  to, 

100    71.    I 

Tillart,  Pindar's  party  pass  through, 

I3i>  13'  n.  5 
Ti77ies  Newspaper,  the,  reference  to 

Garraway's  coffee-house  in,    14  «. 

II 
Tokely,    Captain,   visits    Pindar    at 

Venice,   92,   93 
Tondja,  river,   156,   156  71.  i,  211 
Tonkin,    Thomas,    his    remarks    on 

Peter  Mundy,  xiii,  Ixii ;   gives  the 

name  of  Mundy's  father,  Ixii ;  states 

that  Mundy  intended  to  publish  his 


MS.,  Ixii;  gives  extracts  from 
Mundy's  M.S.  in  his  CoUcctio7is  for 
the  Histo7y  of  Co7'/rd'all,  Ixii 

Top-Khdiia,  the,  at  Constantinople, 
ordnance  at,  39,  39  71.  2,  197; 
descriptions  of,   39  71.  i,   191 

Torquemada,  Cardinal  Juan,  re- 
builds S.   Pablo,   140  71.  3  ■ 

Torre  di  Confini,   loi  7t.  4 

Totnes,  Mundy's  father  apprenticed 
at,  xiii 

To7ir  ill  Fra/ice  a7id  Italy.,  A,  re- 
ferred to,  see  notes  on  pp.  99,  107, 
117,  125,  128 

Tournefort,  N.,  his  Voyage  i7ito  the 
Levant  referred  to,  see  notes  on 
pp.   20,  32,  33,  52,  64 

Tournon,    Rue  de,    in    Paris,    126, 

126    71.     I 

Toury,  Pindar's  party  lodge  at,  xlvii, 

123,    123  71.  6 

Tower,  The,  at  Brescia,  xliii,   104, 

104  71.   5 
Trajan  Gate,  the,  6t  71.  2 
Trajan's  Column,  in  Rome,  196 
Transylvania,  68  71.  4 
Trebizond,   191 
Tremogh,    Cornwall,    residence    of 

the  Worths,  Ixiii 
Triana,  a  suburb  of  Seville,  xxi,  xxi 

71.     I 

Trilj,  85  71.   2 

Trimontium.     See  Adrianople 
Trois  Carreaux,  Les,  at  Nevers,  235 
Troy,  supposed  site  of,  xxiv,  20,  20 
71.  2,   157;  note  on  the  actual  site 

of,    157    71.    3 

Truro,  xiv 

Turbans,  Blount's  story  of  the  origin 

of,  153 
Turin,  Mundy's  route  from  Spalato 
to,  xlii,  84  71.  4 ;  capital  of  Pied- 
mont, xliv,  109,  109  71.  3,  116; 
Pindar's  reception  at,  xliv,  xlv,  109, 
no;  Coryat's  description  of,  109 
71.  3;  Mundy's  route  to  Paris  from, 
109  71.  3;  distance  of,  from  Sian, 
109,  109  71.  I ;  Symonds'  descrip- 
tion of,  109  71.  3,  234;  French  in- 
habitants at,  iio;z.  4,  234;  Duke's 
gallery  at,  xliv,  in,  in  71.  2,  in 
71.  3,  234;  Pindar's  escort  from, 
III  ;  route  over  Mt.  Cenis  to,  112 
71.  I ;  horses  hired  from,  to  Lyons, 
xliv,  119;  Symonds'  journey  from 
Dover  to,  2 1 7-235 ;  country  around, 
described,  233,  234;  the  Duke's 
stable  at,  234;  "walks"  in  com- 
pared with  those  at  Calais,  234 ; 
cost    of    horse    hire    from    Lyons 


28o 


INDEX 


to,  235  ;  cost  of  certificate  of  health 
at,  235 

Turkey,  Mundy's  travels  m,  Ixi,  i  ; 
map  of,  in  Rawlhison  MS.  A.  315, 
6  n.  I,  30  «.  2  ;  distances  in,  how 
reckoned,  136,  136  n.  8;  Sandys' 
Travels  in,  192  n.  3  ;  travelling  in, 
the  night  chosen  for,  212;  punish- 
ments in,  Iv,  55-58 ;  amusements 
in,  Iv,  58,   59 

Turkey  Company.  See  Levant 
Company 

Turkey  merchants,  15 ;?.  3,  47  n.  r ; 
Sir  John  Eyre's  unpopularity  with 
the,   181 

Turkish  ensigns,  65 

Turks,  the,  religion  of,  26 ;  conduct 
of,  at  a  feast,  37;  their  usage  of 
Christians,  Ivii,  67,  67  7i.  3,  67 
n.  5,  68,  68  71.  3,  152,  205,  206; 
take  Candia  from  the  Venetians, 
91  n.  6  ;  Blount's  remarks  on,  146  ; 
their  attempts  on  Zara,  147  ;  Sir 
John  Eyre's  unpopularity  with,  181; 
destroy  the  Kerkoporta,  193  n.  2; 
build  mosques,  khans,  bridges,  etc. 
as  acts  of  reparation,  212,  213, 
216 

Turpentine  Tree,  the,  29,   189 

Tuscany,  Duke  of,  presents  a  statue 
of  Henri  IV.  to  Paris,  125,  125 
n.   5 

Uscocs,  the,  piracies  of,  xxxvii,  81 

n.  6 
Usundji,  river,  xxxi 
Utrecht,    treaty  of,  gives  Milan  to 

Austria,   105  n.  8 
Uzeda,  son  of  the  Duke  of  Lerma, 

supplants  his  father,  140  n.  2 
Uzunjova  or  Usunchobi,  Pindar's 

party    dine    at,    xxviii,    xxxi,    54  ; 

other  spellings  of  the  name,  54  «.  i 

Valdogosto,  88  ;?.  5 
Valentinian,    Emperor,    builds   the 
aqueduct  at  Constantinople,  48  w. 

3'.  195 

Valjevo,  Pindar's  party  encamp  near, 
xxxvi,  78 ;  men  staked  near,  78 ; 
Artzf  of,  sends  a  guard  to  Pindar, 
78  ;  Blount's  remarks  on,  78  Jt.  3, 
149;  description  of  the  country 
from,  to  Sarajevo,  78-80,  148,  149 

Valladolid,  Mundy  attends  the 
Chancery  Court  at,  xvi,  li,  139, 
145 ;  Mundy's  description  of,  li, 
^39'  139  '^'  4)  140;  rise  of,  in  im- 
portance, 139  ;z.  5,  140  7i.  1  ;  other 
names  for,  140  «.  i ;  the  Duke  of 


Lerma  buried  at,  li,  140,  140  «.  3  ; 
chief  buildings  at,  li,  140,  140  n.  6, 
141,  141  n.  I  ;  Mundy  stays  four 
months  at,  li,  141,  162;  salt  evapo- 
rated near,    142 

Valtellina,  contest  for  the,  153,  153 
n.  I  ;  situation  of  the,  153  n.  i ; 
neutrality  of  the,  assured,  153  «.  i ; 
murder  of  Protestants  in  the,  153 
n.   I 

J^e^a,  an  open  plain,  xxi  n.  5 

Vega  de  Sevilla,  fertility  of  the, 
xxi,  xxii 

Venetian  Arms,  the,  at  Lonato, 
xlii,   103 

Venetians,  the,  their  quarrel  with 
the  Bosnians,  xxxvii,  81,  81  «.  6; 
watch-towers  erected  by,  xxxix,  87; 
Su9uraz  taken  from,  85 ;  Spalato 
under  the  rule  of,  85,  86,  147 

Venice,  part  of  Dalmatia  under  the 
rule  of,  xxxix,  85,  86  ;  John  Clarke 
hires  a  house  for  Pindar  at,  xl,  xli, 
87,  91  ;  sanitary  laws  of,  xli,  87 
n.  I,  90  «.  I  ;  Zara  under  the  rule 
of,  88  7Z.  3,  148 ;  Pindar's  party 
reach,  xli,  89,  136,  214  n.  4; 
arsenal  at,  xli,  89  n.  6,  93-97,  97 
n.  I ;  castles  at  entrance  to,  xli,  90 
ft.  2 ;  natural  defences  of,  go  n.  2 ; 
Coryat's  description  of,  91  ti.  i ; 
Bargrave's  description  of,  91  n.  i ; 
nobility  at,  xlii,  91,  91  n.  5;  Eng- 
lish soldiers  at,  xl,  92,  92  n.  3,  92 
7t.  6,  93,  93  7Z.  2  ;  ambassadors  at, 
xli,  93  ;  ceremonies  at,  on  Ascen- 
sion Day,  xli,  95,  96  «.  i  ;  bridges 
at,  xlii,  28,  97,  97  71.  5,  97  K.  6 ; 
gondolas  at,  xlii,  97,  98  ;  St  Mark's 
Square  and  Tower  at,  xli,  97,  97 
7z.  2 ;  Mundy's  description  of,  xli, 
xlii,  98 ;  Pindar's  party  leave, 
xlviii,  1,  98 ;  Randolph  Symes  re- 
turns to,  101 ;  post-road  from,  to 
Milan,  loi  ;z.  4;  description  of 
the  country  from,  to  Orzi  Nuovi, 
xliii,  105 ;  extent  of  the  territories 
of,  105,  105  «.  7,  106 ;  Blount's 
voyage  to,    146 

Venice,  Doge  of,  his  marriage  to  the 
Adriatic,  xli,  95,  96  71.  r 

Venice,  Gulf  of,  Pindar's  party  cross 
the,  xli,  89,  89  7i.  7 

Vera  Cruz,  6  7i.  2 

Vercelli,  siege  of,  xliv,  Iv,  108,  108 
71.  6,  no  71.  5 ;  under  the  Duke  of 
Savoy,  xliv,  108,  108  ?i.  5  ;  taken 
by  the  Spaniards,  108,  ro8  7z.  6  ; 
surrendered  to  Savoy,  108  «.  6; 
re-taken  by  the  Spaniards,  108  w.  6 


INDEX 


281 


Vermilion,  Mundy  takes  a  consign- 
ment of,  to  Patna,  8 

Verona,  caroches  hired  to,  from 
Padua,  xlii,  100 ;  water-mills  at, 
72  n.  4;  amphitheatre  at,  xlii,  lix, 
loi,  102,  102  n.  I,  102  11.  1,  103, 
103  71.  4;  inns  at,  loi,  loi  n.  5; 
distance  from  Vicenza  to,  loi  n.  6; 
description  of,  loi,  102  n.  i 

Viana.     See  Avigliana 

Vicenza,  Pindar's  train  lodge  at, 
xlii,  loi ;  distance  from  Padua  to, 
101  n.  2  ;  inns  at,  loi,  loi  11.  1 

Victor  Amadeus,  Prince  of  Pied- 
mont, marries  Christine  of  France, 
xlv,  Iv,  no  71.  4  ;  heir  of  the  Duke 
of  Savoy,  no  «.  6;  sends  a  pre- 
sent to  Pindar,   116,    ri6  w.  i 

Vienna,  Sulaiman  the  Great  desires 
the  subjugation  of,  195  ;  Des  Hayes 
travels  via,  to  Belgrade,  214  «.  4 

Villa  Nuova,  Pindar's  party  dine  at, 
xlii,  roi ;  situation  of,  loi  7Z.  4 

Villiano.     See  Avigliana 

Vilna,  Mundy's  intended  journey 
to,    6 

Vincentio.     See  Castello,  Vincentio 

Vineyards,  in  Northern  Italy, 
Mundy's  description  of,  xliii,  105  ; 
Symonds'  description  of,  in  France 
and  Italy,  105  Jt.  4,  229,  233,  234 

Vitri,    kills   the   marechal    d'Ancre, 

129    71.    I 

Vittoria,  Mundy's  visit  to,  1,  li,  139, 
139  «.  2,  139  71.  3,  141 ;  George 
Wyche  imprisoned  at,  1,  li,  139, 
139  n.  3 

Vivian,  Charles,  passenger  on  the 
Roy  all  Merchant,  xxiii,  15  ;  a  mem- 
ber of  the  East  India  Co.,  15  w.  2  ; 

=.  son  of  Hannibal  Vivian,  xxiii ; 
apprenticed  to  Sir  Morris  Abbot, 
xxiii  71.  4 ;  made  free  of  the  Levant 
Company,  xxiii  7t.  4 

Vivian,  Hannibal,  of  Trelewarrein, 
father  of  Roger  and  Charles  Vivian, 
xxiii 

Vivian,  Hannibal,  son  of  Hannibal 
Vivian,  senior,  xv ;  marries  Richard 
Mundy's  sister,  xv ;  his  brothers 
sail  to  Constantinople  with  Peter 
Mundy,  xv 

Vivian,  Roger,  passenger  on  the 
Roy  all  Merchant,  xxiii,  15  ;  a  mem- 
ber of  the  Levant  Company,  15 
71.  1 ;  son  of  Hannibal  Vivian, 
xxiii;  travels  with  Sir  Thomas 
Abdy,   xxiii  7i.  4 

Vivians,  the,  connected  with  the 
Mundys,  xv,  xxiii 


Viziers,    at    Constantinople,     their 

duties,    36  7t.  4 
Vologda,  Mundy's  intended  journey 

to,   6 
Vrekli,   Edward  Wyche  buried   at, 

164 
Vulcan,  I.,  17  «.  3 
Vulcanello,   I.,   17  «.  3 
Vulteius,  besieged  in  Salona,   147 

Wadmore,  J.  F.,  his  Account  of  the 
Company  of  Ski7iners  referred  to, 

159    71.     I 

Waggons,  hired  from  Constanti- 
nople, xxvii,  44 ;  discharged  at 
Belgrade,  xxxvi,  72  ;  hired  from 
Dover  to  Gravesend,  xlix 

Wake,  Sir  Isaac,  English  ambassador 
at  Turin,  xliv,  109,  109  n.  7  ;  his 
reception  of  Pindar,  xliv,  109 ; 
knighted,  109  71.  7  ;  escorts  Pindar 
from  Turin,  xliv,    in 

Wales,  Mundy's  travels  in,  xvi,  9,  11 

Wallachia,   201 

W^alpole,  Horace,  Lord,  his  A7iec- 
dotes  of  Pai7iti72g  referred  to,   217 

71.     I 

Wanley,  Humphrey,  his  description 
of  Hai-l.  MS.  2286,  Ix,  Ixi 

Wardeman,  Joachim,  his  ship  taken 
by  Mainwaring,  92  7i.  5 

W^ater-mills,  at  Lyons,  119,  119 
71.  3,  149;  at  Belgrade,  73,  119, 
119  71.  3,  149;  at  Sarajevo,  82; 
on  the  Loire,  122 

Watts,  Thomas,  master  of  the  Expe- 
dition,  7 

Weaver,  George,  Mundy  lives  with, 
at  Sanlucar,  xvii,  xx  71.  4,  14 

Westminster  Abbey,  a  church  in 
Beauvais  compared  with,   221 

Westminster  Hall,  compared  with 
the  Hall  of  Audience  at  Padua,  99 

71.    5 

Whetenall,  Lady  Catherine,  her 
journey  from  Brussels  to  Italy,  106 
71.  7 

W^hite  Lion,  the,  at  Lyons,  119 
71.  5 

White  Sea,  the,  Mundy's  voyage  to, 

Wiccia,  a  province  of  Mercia,  the 
name  Wyche  derived  from,    158 

W^iche,  James.     See  Wyche,  James 

Wiches,  Old  English  name  for  salt- 
pits,   158 

Wilkinson,  Sir  J.  Gardner,  his 
Dalmatia  and  Mo7ite77egro  referred 
to,  81  ti.  6,  85  71.  4,  85  71.  5,  86 
71.    4 


282 


INDEX 


Willbraham,  Thomas,  factor,  8 

Williams,  John,  Abel  Guilliams  ap- 
prenticed to,  xxvii  n.  3 

Wilson,  Mr,  Master-attendant,  in- 
competence of,   169 

Wilson,  Anthony,  travels  in  Pindar's 
train,  41 ;  made  free  of  the  Levant 
Company,  41  n.  7;  leaves  and  re- 
joins Pindar's  party,  44,  48  ;  allows 
Thaddeus  Murad  to  return  to  Con- 
stantinople, xxxvi,  76;  accompanies 
Mundy  in  Paris,  xlvii,  124 

Winchester,  Mundy's  visit  to,  xvi 

Winge,  Captain,  joins  Pindar's  train 
at  Padua,  loi,  -loi  11.  i 

Withers,  Robert,  his  account  of  re- 
ception of  ambassadors  at  Constanti- 
nople, 36  n.  4 

Withers,  Robert,  travels  in  Pindar's 
train,  42 

Wolstanholme,  Sir  John,  case  of 
Lane  v.  Payes  referred  to,  42 
n.  2 

Women's  Court,  the.  See  Avret- 
Bdzdr 

Woodhouse,  William,  escorts  Pin- 
dar from  Constantinople,  44  ;  made 
free  of  the  Levant  Company,  44 
H.   3 

Woolwich,  Captain  Downing  in- 
spector of  cordage  at,    168 

World,  the,  map  of  in  Mundy's  MS., 
in.  1,6  n.  I 

Worth  family,  the,  possessors  of 
the  Mundy  MS.,  Ixiii;  Mundy's 
connection  with,   discussed,  Ixiii 

Worth,  Dorothy,  widow  of  John 
Worth,  junior,  Ixiii 

Worth,  John,  junior,  of  Tremogh, 
Ixiii 

Wotton,  Sir  Henry,  English  am- 
bassador at  Venice,   108  n.  6 

Wyche  family,  the,  Mundy's  con- 
nection with,  xxvi,  liii,  14  11.  g, 
T56  71.  7;  account  of,  158-165; 
originally  settled  in  Worcestershire, 
158;  derivation  of  the  name,  158; 
genealogical  table  oi,  facing  p.  158 

Wyche,  Abigail,  5th  daughter  of 
Richard  Wyche,  senior,  159  ;  pre- 
deceases her  father,    160 

Wyche,  Abigail,  daughter  of  Richard 
Wyche,  junior,  161 

Wyche,  Anne,  4th  daughter  of 
Richard  Wyche,  senior,  159,  164; 
legacy  from  her  father  to,  160 ; 
marries  Mr  Charleton,   164 

Wyche,  Bernard,  grandson  of  Sir 
Peter  Wyche,  165;  merchant  in  the 
East  India  Co.'s  service,  165 


Wyche,  Sir  Cyril,  great  grandson  of 
Sir  Peter  Wyche,  163 ;  becomes  a 
baronet,  163;  title  extinct  on  the 
death  of,  165 

W^yche,  Daniel,  3rd  son  of  Richard 
Wyche,  senior,  159;  predeceases 
his  father,   160 

Wyche,  Dorothy,  wife  of  Henry 
Wyche,   164 

W^yche,  Edward,  8th  son  of  Richard 
Wyche,  senior,  14  n.  9,  159,  160, 
161  n.  2;  known  by  Mundy,  liv ; 
escorts  Pindar  from  Constantinople, 
45,  47,  47  n.  I,  164;  merchant  at 
Constantinople,  164  ;  made  free  of 
the  Levant  Company,  164  ;  returns 
to  Constantinople,  164,  165 ;  goes 
to  Scio,  164;  dies,  161  w.  2,  164, 
164  n.   4 

Wyche,  Elizabeth  {nk  Saltingstall), 
wife  of  Richard  Wyche,  senior, 
160,  161;  death  of,  161;  will  of, 
161 

W^yche,  EHzabeth,  2nd  daughter 
of  Richard  Wyche,  senior,  159, 
160,  161,  163;  marries  Job  Harby, 
163  ;  death  of,  163  ;  where  buried, 
163;  bequests  of,  164 

Wyche,  George,  4th  son  of  Richard 
Wyche,  senior,  14  n.  9,  159,  160, 
161  ;  Mundy's  acquaintance  with, 
liv;  imprisoned  at  Vittoria,  li,  139, 
139  n.  3,  162,  165;  brother  of 
Richard  Wyche,  139;  legacy  to, 
162,   163,   164 

Wyche,  George,  grandson  of  Sir 
Peter  Wyche,  165;  a  merchant  at 
Pondicherry,    165 

Wyche,  Henry,  1 1  th  son  of  Richard 
Wyche,  senior,  159,  160,  164,  165; 
Mundy  acquainted  with,  liv;  mar- 
ries Dorothy — ,  164;  family  of,  164 

Wyche,  Sir  Hugh,  mercer.  Lord 
Mayor  of  London,  158;  buried  in 
Lothbury,  158;  will  of,  158;  an- 
cestor of  Richard  Wyche,  senior, 

158 

Wyche,  Jacob,  brother  of  Richard 
Wyche,  senior,  158;  member  of 
the  Skinners'  Company,  158 ;  will 
of,   162 

Wyche,  James,  Mundy  takes  service 
under,  xv,  xxiii,  liii,  liv,  10,  14; 
7th  son  of  Richard  Wyche,  senior, 
xxiii,  14  n.  9,  159;  goes  to  Con- 
stantinople on  the  Roy  all  Merchant, 
xxiii,  XXV,  14,  160,  175  ;  dies  of 
small-pox,  XXV,  23,  136,  160,  165 

Wyche,  James,  a  Director  of  the 
East  India  Company,   160 


INDEX 


283 


Wyche,   Jane,   daughter   of    Henry 

Wyche,    164 
Wyche,  Jeane,  daughter  of  Richard 

Wyche,  junior,    161 
Wyche,  JuHus,   9th  son  of  Richard 

Wyche,  senior,  159,  t6o,  164,  165; 

Mundy  acquainted  with,  Uv ;    will 

of,  162,  163,  J 64,  164  n.  4 
Wyche,   Lady  Jane  {nee  Meredith), 

wife    of    Sir   Peter   Wyche,    163 ; 

joins  her  hushand  at  Constantinople, 

164 
Wyche,    Mary,     3rd     daughter     of 

Richard  Wyche,  senior,  159;  pre- 
deceases her  father,   160 
Wyche,    Nathaniel,     12th     son     of 

Richard  Wyche,  senior,   159,    160, 

164  ;  Mundy  acquainted  with,  liv  ; 
a  director  of  the  East  India  Co., 
164,   165  ;  president  of  Surat,  liv, 

165  ;  dies  at  Surat,  liv,  165 
Wyche,  Sir  Peter,  6th  son  of  Richard 

Wyche,  senior,  159,  160;  his  diplo- 
matic post  in  Spain,  163  ;  knighted, 
163  ;  ambassador  at  Constantinople, 
156,  163,  165;  Blount's  visit  to, 
156;  offers  employment  to  Mundy, 
liv,  156  n.  7  ;  marriage  and  family 
of,  163,  163  n.  4 

Wyche,  Sir  Peter,  junior,  son  of  Sir 
Peter  Wyche,  163 

Wyche,  Peter,  grandson  of  Sir  Peter 
Wyche,  165  ;  a  merchant  at  Cam- 
brai,  165 

Wyche,  Rebecca,  6th  daughter  of 
Richard  Wyche,  senior,    159,    160, 

164,    165 

Wyche,  Richard,  father  of  Sir  Hugh 
Wyche,    158 

Wyche,  Richard,  of  Davenham, 
father  of  Richard  Wyche,  senior, 
158 

Wyche,  Richard,  senior,  a  London 
merchant,  14  «.  9;  known  to 
Mundy,  liv  ;  son  of  Richard  Wyche, 
of  Davenham,  158;  marries  Eliza- 
beth Saltingstall,  158,  159;  family 
of,  liv,  158,  159,  160;  member  of 
the  Skinners'  Co.,  158,  159;  con- 
nected with  the  East  India  Co., 
159;  director  of  the  Levant  Co., 
xxiii,  159  ;  member  of  the  Muscovy 
Co.,  159,  161  ;  death  and  burial  of, 
159;  will  of,  liii,  160;  inventory 
of  the  effects  of,   160,  161 

Wyche,  Richard,  junior,  eldest  son 
of  Richard  Wyche,  senior,  14  «.  9, 
159,  160,  161,  165;  member  of  the 
Levant  Co.,  161  ;  Mundy  stays 
with,  in  Mincing  Lane,  136,  16  r  ; 


Mundy  enters  his  service,  1,  liii,  liv, 
i37>  138  n.  2,  156  71.  7,  162; 
brother  of  James  Wyche,  137  n.  7  ; 
executor  to  his  father's  will,  161  ; 
sends  Mundy  to  Spain,  1,  lii,  138, 
161,  162  ;  sends  Mundy  to  Col- 
chester, 143;  illness  and  death 
of,  li,  143,  162;  family  of,  162; 
bequests  to  the  children  of,   164 

Wyche,  Richard,  eldest  son  of 
Richard  Wyche,  junior,  provided 
for  by  his  grandmother,  161,  162  ; 
serves  the  East  India  Co.  at 
Bantam,    1 62 

Wyche,  Samuel,  5th  son  of  Richard 
Wyche,  senior,  159;  predeceases 
his  father,   160 

Wyche,  Susanna,  eldest  daughter  of 
Richard  Wyche,  senior,  159,  160, 
162 

Wyche,  Thomas,  2nd  son  of  Richard 
Wyche,  senior,  159,  160,  161,  162; 
Mundy  acquainted  with,  liv;  made 
free  of  the  Levant  Company,  159, 
162;  goes  to  "Muscovy,"  165 

Wyche,  Thomas,  of  Alderley,  nephew 
of  Jacob  Wyche,  162 

Wyche,  WiUiam,  loth  son  of  Richard 
Wyche,  senior,  1 59 ;  predeceases 
his  father,    160 

Wyche,  William,  nephew  of  Richard 
Wyche,  senior,  160 

Wyche,  William,  son  of  Henry 
Wyche,   164 

Xaral,  place  planted  with  the  cistus 
shrub,   xxii  n.   1 

Xarall  de  Sevilla,  Mundy's  descrip- 
tion of  the,  xxii 

Xerxes,  his  encounter  with  Leonidas, 
152  n.  6;  musters  his  army  on 
the  plain  of  Adrianople,  156;  his 
bridge  over  the  Hellespont,  157, 
157  n.   2 

Xio,     See  Scio 

Yadra,  river.     See  Jadar 

Yagodin     or    Jagodina,     Pindar's 

party  halt  at,  xxix,  xxxiv,   70,   70 

n.  7  ;  2l  palangha  at,  xxxiv,  71  «.  i ; 

description  of,   70  n.  7,   203  ;   Des 

Hayes  halts  at,  203 
Yard,  John,  factor  in  the  East  India 

Co.'s  service,  7 
Yedi  Kule.     See  Seven  Towers,  the 
Yelkeeoy,      Pindar's      party      pass 

through,  61  ;  location  and  modem 

name  of,  discussed,  60  n.  5 
Yengheekeoy.     See  Yeni  Khan 


284 


INDEX 


Yengi  cheri,  new  soldiery,  janissaries, 

43  «•  2 

Yengi  kyuy,  the  new  village,  60 
n.   5 

Yeni  Khan  or  Novi  Khan,  Pindar's 
party  halt  at,  xxix,  xxxii,  60;  various 
spellings  of  the  name,  60  71.  5  ;  on 
the  borders  of  Roumania,  209 

Yriarte,  Charles,  his  Les  Bords  de 
r Adriatique  referred  to,  85  n.  4, 
86  n.  3 ;  his  Venise  referred  to,  95 
n.  I 

Yteeman.     S^£  Ikhtiman 


2ante,  the  Royall  Merchant  sails  to, 
16,  166,  168;  earthquakes  at,  18 
«.  3,  19;  Lithgow's  description  of, 
17  n.  3 ;  currants  produced  at, 
xxiv,  18,  18  w.  3 ;  no  corn  grown 
at,  xxiv,  18,  18  «.  3  ;  subject  to 
Venice,  18  n.  3,  19;  Sandys'  de- 
scription of,  18  «.  3  ;  Struys'  de- 
scription of,   18  «.  3 


Zara,  Pindar's  party  sail  past,  xl,  88 ; 
a  garrison  of  English  soldiers  at, 
xl,  88,  88  n.  3,  92  n.  3,  93  n.  2, 
147  ;  description  of,  88  n.  3,  147, 
147  n.  2  ;  coveted  by  the  Turks, 
148 

Zarekeeoy.     See  Pirot 

Zaribrod,  Mundy's  halting-place, 
xxix,  66,  66  «.  3  ;  country  around, 
infested  with  robbers,  xxxiii ;  Pin- 
dar's uncomfortable  lodging  at, 
xxxiii,  66 ;  inhabitants  of,  flee  on 
Des  Hayes'  arrival,  206,   206  n.  4 

Zechin,  zecchino.     See  Sequins 

Ziani,  Sebastiano,  Doge  of  Venice, 
96  n.   I 

Zindana,  tower,  at  Belgrade,  de- 
vised for  the  execution  of  criminals, 
151 ;  compared  with  the  Gemonia 
in  Rome,  151,   151  n.   i 

Zodiac,  signs  of  the,  on  the  roof  of 
the  Louvre,  126 

Zrni  Lug,  possibly  Mundy's  "  great 
Lake,"  84  ;/.   7 


ERRATA 

p.  xxxix.  For  Clyssa  read  Clissa. 

p.  ^  n.  5.  For  Penrhyn  read  Penryn. 

p.  26  ti.  6.  For  ist  ed.   1615  read  7th  ed.   1673. 

p.  32  n.  2.  For  the  corrections  of  the  errors  in  this  note,  see  p.  193  n.  2^ 

p.  33  n.  2.  For  Constantine  read  Theodosius. 

p.  80  n.  4.  For  Roiiten  in  Bosnia,  read  Reisen  in  Bosnien. 

pp.  85  n.  4  and  88  n.  3.     For  De  Bauveau  read  De  Beauveau. 

p.  105  n.  I.  For  Orzivechi  read  Orzivecchi. 

p.  109  n.  4.  For  Charles  Emanuel  II.   read  Charles  Emanuel  I. 

pp.  126  n.  3,   127  n.  4  and  128  n.  4.     For  Marie  de  Medicis  read  Marie- 
de  Medici. 

p.  129  n.  2.     For  Add.  MS.  22078  read  Add.  MS.  22gj8. 
p.  162.  For   George,   third   son   of  Richard   Wyche,   read  George,, 

fourth  son  of  Richard  Wyche. 


Caiuirttrge : 

PRINTED    BY   JOHN    CLAY,    M.A. 
AT   THE    UNIVERSITY    PRESS. 


^ 


Date  Due 

.  MAY  1  ^  % 

"/ 

" 

K. 

1 

i^Jf^^ 

^^ 

1 

■S^.^ 

i^I^ 

i 

! 

! 

Library  Bureau  Cat.  No.  1137 

3  5002  02024  7867 

Mundy,  Peler 

The  travels  of  Peter  Mundy  in  Europe  and 


G  161  .H2  17 

Mundy,  Peter,  fl.  1600-1667, 

The  "travels  of  Peter  Mundy 
In  Europe  and  Asia,  1608-